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BOOKSTACKi 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


GEORGE  BORROW 


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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


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https://archive.org/details/bibleinspainorjo00borr_2 


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EDITOR’S  NOTE 

Blessed  with  a magnificent  physique, 
and  an  unswerving  belief  in  God's  benefi- 
cence ; endowed  with  “ the  gift  of  tongues  ” 
and  a cheerful  disposition,  George  Borrow 
was  well  equipped  for  life.  That  he  was 
called  to  be  a Bible  Society  missionary  was 
surely  a curious  turn  of  fortune . The  son  of 
a Militia  captain,  whose  duties  took  him 
about  the  country.  Borrow  early  acquired  the 
taste  for  a roving  life,  and  it  must  have  been 
a severe  hardship  to  him  when,  at  the  age  of 
sixteen,  he  was  articled  to  a Norwich  firm  of 
solicitors.  Indeed,  it  would  almost  appear 
that  the  gypsy  spirit  was  quenched,  for  on 
the  completion  of  his  five  years  he  was  en- 
gaged as  literary  hack  to  Phillips,  the  London 
publisher.  But  after  a year  or  so  the  “ call 
of  the  wild  ’ came,  and  Borrow  eagerly 
responded.  What  happened  is  not  really 
known,  though  much  of  his  gypsy  life  is  pic- 
tured in  Lavengro. 

In  1832  he  commenced  his  work  for  the 
Bible  Society,  and  the  next  year  went  as  its 
representative  to  Russia.  He  stayed  there 
until  1835,  when  he  was  ordered  to  Spain 
and  Portugal.  In  spite  of  their  adventurous 
nature,  the  five  years  there  spent  were  de- 
scribed by  Borrow  as  “ the  most  happy  years 
of  my  life.*’  The  Bible  in  Spain  consists 
largely  of  his  letters  to  the  Society,  and  the 
vigour  and  directness  of  his  language  must 
ofttimes  have  startled  the  officials.  The  book 
was  published  in  December,  S 842. 

George  Henry  Borrow  was  born  July  5, 
1803,  and  died  July  26,  1881. 


THE  BIBLE 

IN  SPAIN  or  The 

Journeys,  Adventures,  and  Im- 
prisonments of  an  Englishman, 
in  an  Attempt  to  circulate  the 
Scriptures  in  the  Peninsula 


BY 


GEORGE  BORROW 


CASSELL  AND  COMPANY,  LTD. 
LONDON,  PARIS,  NEW  YORK. 
TORONTO  & MELBOURNE 
MCMVIII 


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AUTHOR’S  PREFACE 


ms 


It  is  very  seldom  that  the  preface  of  a work  is  read;  indeed, 
of  late  years,  most  books  have  been  sent  into  the  world 
without  any.  I deem  it,  however,  advisable  to  write  a 
preface,  and  to  this  I humbly  call  the  attention  of  the 
courteous  reader,  as  its  perusal  will  not  a little  tend  to  the 
proper  understanding  and  appreciation  of  these  volumes. 

The  work  now  offered  to  the  public,  and  which  is  styled 
The  Bible  in  Spain , consists  of  a narrative  of  what  occurred 
to  me  during  a residence  in  that  country,  to  which  I was 
sent  by  the  Bible  Society,  as  its  agent  for  the  purpose  of 
printing  and  circulating  the  Scriptures.  It  comprehends, 
however,  certain  journeys  and  adventures  in  Portugal, 
and  leaves  me  at  last  in  “ the  land  of  the  Corahai,”  to 
which  region,  after  having  undergone  considerable  buffeting 
in  Spain,  I found  it  expedient  to  retire  for  a season. 

It  is  very  probable  that  had  I visited  Spain  from  mere 
curiosity,  or  with  a view  of  passing  a year  or  two  agreeably, 
I should  never  have  attempted  to  give  any  detailed  account 
of  my  proceedings,  or  of  what  I heard  and  saw.  I am  no 
tourist,  no  writer  of  books  of  travels;  but  I went  there  on 
a somewhat  remarkable  errand,  which  necessarily  led  me 
into  strange  situations  and  positions,  involved  me  in 
difficulties  and  perplexities,  and  brought  me  into  contact 
with  people  of  all  descriptions  and  grades;  so  that,  upon 
the  whole,  I flatter  myself  that  a narrative  of  such  a 
pilgrimage  may  not  be  wholly  uninteresting  to  the  public, 
more  especially  as  the  subject  is  not  trite;  for  though 
various  books  have  been  published  about  Spain,  I believe 
that  the  present  is  the  only  one  in  existence  which  treats 
of  missionary  labour  in  that  country. 

Many  things,  it  is  true,  will  be  found  in  the  follow- 
ing volume  which  have  little  connexion  with  religion  or 
religious  enterprise;  I offer,  however,  no  apology  for 
introducing  them.  I was,  as  I may  say,  from  first  to  last 
adrift  in  Spain,  the  land  of  old  renown,  the  land  of  wonder 
and  mystery,  with  better  opportunities  of  becoming 
acquainted  with  its  strange  secrets  and  peculiarities  than 
perhaps  ever  yet  were  afforded  to  any  individual,  certainly 
to  a foreigner;  and  if  in  many  instances  I have  introduced 
scenes  and  characters  perhaps  unprecedented  in  a work  of 

7 


8 


PREFACE 


this  description,  I have  only  to  observe,  that,  during  my 
sojourn  in  Spain,  I was  so  unavoidably  mixed  up  with 
such,  that  I could  scarcely  have  given  a faithful  narrative 
of  what  befell  me  had  I not  brought  them  forward  in  the 
manner  wThich  I have  done. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark  that,  called  suddenly  and  un- 
expectedly “ to  undertake  the  adventure  of  Spain/'  I was 
not  altogether  unprepared  for  such  an  enterprise.  In  the 
daydreams  of  my  boyhood,  Spain  always  bore  a consider- 
able share,  and  I took  a particular  interest  in  her,  without 
any  presentiment  that  I should  at  a future  time  be  called 
upon  to  take  a part,  however  humble,  in  her  strange 
dramas;  which  interest,  at  a very  early  period,  led  me  to 
acquire  her  noble  language,  and  to  make  myself  acquainted 
with  her  literature  (scarcely  worthy  of  the  language),  her 
history  and  traditions;  so  that  when  I entered  Spain  for 
the  first  time  I felt  more  at  home  than  I should  otherwise 
have  done. 

In  Spain  I passed  five  years,  which,  if  not  the  most 
eventful,  were,  I have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  the  most 
happy  years  of  my  existence.  Of  Spain,  at  the  present 
time,  now  that  the  daydream  has  vanished,  never,  alas! 
to  return,  I entertain  the  warmest  admiration:  she  is  the 
most  magnificent  country  in  the  world,  probably  the  most 
fertile,  and  certainly  with  the  finest  climate.  Whether 
her  children  are  worthy  of  their  mother,  is  another  question, 
which  I shall  not  attempt  to  answer;  but  content  myself 
with  observing,  that,  amongst  much  that  is  lamentable  and 
reprehensible,  I have  found  much  that  is  noble  and  to  be 
admired;  much  stern  heroic  virtue;  much  savage  and 
horrible  crime;  of  low  vulgar  vice  very  little,  at  least 
amongst  the  great  body  of  the  Spanish  nation,  with  which 
my  mission  lay;  for  it  will  be  as  well  here  to  observe,  that 
I advance  no  claim  to  an  intimate  acquaintance  with  the 
Spanish  nobility,  from  whom  I kept  as  remote  as  circum- 
stances would  permit  me;  en  revanche , however,  I have  had 
the  honour  to  live  on  familiar  terms  with  the  peasants, 
shepherds,  and  muleteers  of  Spain,  whose  bread  and  bacalao 
I have  eaten;  who  always  treated  me  with  kindness  and 
courtesy,  and  to  whom  I have  not  unfrequently  been 
indebted  for  shelter  and  protection. 

“ The  generous  bearing  of  Francisco  Gonzales,  and 
the  high  deeds  of  Ruy  Diaz  the  Cid,  are  still  sung 
amongst  the  fastnesses  of  the  Sierra  Morena."  1 

1 “ Om  Frands  Gonzales,  o g Rodrik  Cid. 

End  siunges  i Sierra  Murene  ! ” 

Kronikt  Riim.  By  Severin  Grnndfcvig.  Copenhagen,  1829. 


PREFACE 


9 


I believe  that  no  stronger  argument  can  be  brought 
forward  in  proof  of  the  natural  vigour  and  resources  of 
Spain,  and  the  sterling  character  of  her  population,  than 
the  fact  that,  at  the  present  day,  she  is  still  a powerful  and 
unexhausted  country,  and  her  children  still,  to  a certain 
extent,  a high-minded  and  great  people.  Yes,  notwith- 
standing the  misrule  of  the  brutal  and  sensual  Austrian, 
the  doting  Bourbon,  and,  above  all,  the  spiritual  tyranny 
of  the  court  of  Rome,  Spain  can  still  maintain  her  own, 
fight  her  own  combat,  and  Spaniards  are  not  yet  fanatic 
slaves  and  crouching  beggars.  This  is  saying  much,  very 
much:  she  has  undergone  far  more  than  Naples  had  ever 
to  bear,  and  yet  the  fate  of  Naples  has  not  been  hers.  There 
is  still  valour  in  Asturia;  generosity  in  Aragon;  probity 
in  Old  Castile;  and  the  peasant  women  of  La  Mancha  can 
still  afford  to  place  a silver  fork  and  a snowy  napkin  beside 
the  plate  of  their  guest.  Yes,  in  spite  of  Austrian,  Bourbon, 
and  Rome,  there  is  still  a wide  gulf  between  Spain  and 
Naples. 

Strange  as  it  may  sound,  Spain  is  not  a fanatic  country. 
I know  something  about  her,  and  declare  that  she  is  not, 
nor  has  ever  been;  Spain  never  changes.  It  is  true  that, 
for  nearly  two  centuries,  she  was  the  she-butcher,  La 
Verduga , of  malignant  Rome;  the  chosen  instrument  for 
carrying  into  effect  the  atrocious  projects  of  that  power; 
yet  fanaticism  was  not  the  spring  which  impelled  her  to 
the  work  of  butchery;  another  feeling,  in  her  the  pre- 
dominant one,  was  worked  upon — her  fatal  pride.  It 
was  by  humouring  her  pride  that  she  was  induced  to  waste 
her  precious  blood  and  treasure  in  the  Low  Country  wars, 
to  launch  the  Armada,  and  to  many  other  equally  insane 
actions.  Love  of  Rome  had  ever  slight  influence  over  her 
policy;  but  flattered  by  the  title  of  Gonfaloniera  of  the 
Vicar  of  Jesus,  and  eager  to  prove  herself  not  unworthy 
of  the  same,  she  shut  her  eyes  and  rushed  upon  her  own 
destruction  with  the  cry  of  “ Charge,  Spain.” 

But  the  arms  of  Spain  became  powerless  abroad,  and 
she  retired  within  herself.  She  ceased  to  be  the  tool  of 
the  vengeance  and  cruelty  of  Rome.  She  was  not  cast 
aside,  however.  No!  though  she  could  no  longer  wield 
the  sword  with  success  against  the  Lutherans,  she  might 
still  be  turned  to  some  account.  She  had  still  gold  and 
silver,  and  she  was  still  the  land  of  the  vine  and  olive. 
Ceasing  to  be  the  butcher,  she  became  the  banker  of  Rome; 
and  the  poor  Spaniards,  who  always  esteem  it  a privilege 
to  pay  another  person's  reckoning,  were  for  a long  time 
happy  in  being  permitted  to  minister  to  the  grasping 
cupidity  of  Rome,  who  during  the  last  century,  probably 


10  PREFACE 

extracted  from  Spain  more  treasure  than  from  all  the  rest 
of  Christendom. 

But  wars  came  into  the  land.  Napoleon  and  his  fierce 
Franks  invaded  Spain;  plunder  and  devastation  ensued, 
the  effects  of  which  will  probably  be  felt  for  ages.  Spain 
could  no  longer  pay  pence  to  Peter  so  freely  as  of  yore, 
and  from  that  period  she  became  contemptible  in  the  eyes 
of  Rome,  who  has  no  respect  for  a nation,  save  so  far  as 
it  can  minister  to  her  cruelty  or  avarice.  The  Spaniard 
was  still  willing  to  pay,  as  far  as  his  means  would  allow, 
but  he  was  soon  given  to  understand  that  he  was  a degraded 
being, — a barbarian;  nay,  a beggar.  Now,  you  may  draw 
the  last  cuarto  from  a Spaniard,  provided  you  will  concede 
to  him  the  title  of  cavalier,  and  rich  man,  for  the  old  leaven 
still  works  as  powerfully  as  in  the  time  of  the  first  Philip; 
but  you  must  never  hint  that  he  is  poor,  or  that  his 
blood  is  inferior  to  your  own.  And  the  old  peasant,  on 
being  informed  in  what  slight  estimation  he  was  held, 
replied,  “ If  I am  a beast,  a barbarian,  and  a beggar  withal, 
I am  sorry  for  it;  but  as  there  is  no  remedy,  I shall  spend 
these  four  bushels  of  barley,  which  I had  reserved  to 
alleviate  the  misery  of  the  holy  father,  in  procuring  bull 
spectacles,  and  other  convenient  diversions,  for  the  queen  my 
wife,  and  the  young  princes  my  children.  Beggar!  carajo! 
The  water  of  my  village  is  better  than  the  wine  of  Rome.” 

I see  that  in  a late  pastoral  letter  directed  to  the 
Spaniards,  the  father  of  Rome  complains  bitterly  of  the 
treatment  which  he  has  received  in  Spain  at  the  hands  of 
naughty  men.  “ My  cathedrals  are  let  down,”  he  says,  “ my 
priests  are  insulted,  and  the  revenues  of  my  bishops  are  cur- 
tailed.” He  consoles  himself,  however,  with  the  idea  that  this 
is  the  effect  of  the  malice  of  a few,  and  that  the  generality 
of  the  nation  love  him,  especially  the  peasantry,  the  innocent 
peasantry,  who  shed  tears  when  they  think  of  the  sufferings 
of  their  pope  and  their  religion.  Undeceive  yourself, 
Batuschca,  undeceive  yourself!  Spain  was  ready  to  fight 
for  you  so  long  as  she  could  increase  her  own  glory  by 
doing  so;  but  she  took  no  pleasure  in  losing  battle  after 
battle  on  your  account.  She  had  no  objection  to  pay 
money  into  your  coffers  in  the  shape  of  alms,  expecting, 
however,  that  the  same  would  be  received  with  the  gratitude 
and  humility  which  becomes  those  who  accept  charity. 
Finding,  however,  that  you  were  neither  humble  nor 
grateful;  suspecting,  moreover,  that  you  held  Austria 
in  higher  esteem  than  herself,  even  as  a banker,  she  shrugged 
up  her  shoulders,  and  uttered  a sentence  somewhat  similar 
to  that  which  I have  already  put  into  the  mouth  of  one  of 
her  children,  “ These  four  bushels  of  barley,”  etc. 


PREFACE 


11 


It  is  truly  surprising  what  little  interest  the  great 
body  of  the  Spanish  nation  took  in  the  late  struggle,  and 
yet  it  has  been  called,  by  some  who  ought  to  know  better, 
a war  of  religion  and  principle.  It  was  generally  supposed 
that  Biscay  was  the  stronghold  of  Carlism,  and  that  the 
inhabitants  were  fanatically  attached  to  their  religion, 
which  they  apprehended  was  in  danger.  The  truth  is, 
that  the  Basques  cared  nothing  for  Carlos  or  Rome,  and 
merely  took  up  arms  to  defend  certain  rights  and  privileges 
of  their  own.  For  the  dwarfish  brother  of  Ferdinand 
they  always  exhibited  supreme  contempt,  which  his  char- 
acter, a compound  of  imbecility,  cowardice,  and  cruelty, 
well  merited.  If  they  made  use  of  his  name,  it  was  merely 
as  a cri  de  guerre . Much  the  same  may  be  said  with  respect 
to  his  Spanish  partisans,  at  least  those  who  appeared  in  the 
field  for  him.  These,  however,  were  of  a widely  different 
character  from  the  Basques,  who  were  brave  soldiers  and 
honest  men.  The  Spanish  armies  of  Don  Carlos  were 
composed  entirely  of  thieves  and  assassins,  chiefly  Valencians 
and  Manchegans,  who,  marshalled  under  two  cut-throats, 
Cabrera  and  Palillos,  took  advantage  of  the  distracted 
state  of  the  country  to  plunder  and  massacre  the  honest 
part  of  the  community.  With  respect  to  the  Queen  Regent 
Christina,  of  whom  the  less  said  the  better,  the  reins  of 
government  fell  into  her  hands  on  the  decease  of  her  hus- 
band, and  with  them  the  command  of  the  soldiery.  The 
respectable  part  of  the  Spanish  nation,  and  more  especially 
the  honourable  and  toilworn  peasantry,  loathed  and 
execrated  both  factions.  Oft  when  I was  sharing  at  night- 
fall the  frugal  fare  of  the  villager  of  Old  or  N ew  Castile, 
on  hearing  the  distant  shot  of  the  Christino  soldier  or 
Carlist  bandit,  he  would  invoke  curses  on  the  heads  of 
the  two  pretenders,  not  forgetting  the  holy  father  and  the 
goddess  of  Rome,  Maria  Santissima.  Then,  with  the  tiger 
energy  of  the  Spaniard  when  roused,  he  would  start  up  and 
exclaim:  “ Vamos,  Don  Jorge,  to  the  plain,  to  the  plain! 
I wish  to  enlist  with  you,  and  to  learn  the  law  of  the  English. 
To  the  plain,  therefore,  to  the  plain  to-morrow,  to  circulate 
the  gospel  of  Ingalaterra.” 

Amongst  the  peasantry  of  Spain  I found  my  sturdiest 
supporters:  and  yet  the  holy  father  supposes  that  the 
Spanish  labourers  are  friends  and  lovers  of  his.  Undeceive 
yourself,  Batuschca! 

But  to  return  to  the  present  work:  it  is  devoted  to  an 
account  of  what  befell  me  in  Spain  whilst  engaged  in 
distributing  the  Scripture.  With  respect  to  my  poor 
labours,  I wish  here  to  observe,  that  I accomplished  but 
very  little,  and  that  I lay  claim  to  no  brilliant  successes 


12 


PREFACE 


and  triumphs;  indeed  I was  sent  into  Spain  more  to  explore 
the  country,  and  to  ascertain  how  far  the  minds  of  the  people 
were  prepared  to  receive  the  truths  of  Christianity,  than 
for  any  other  object;  I obtained,  however,  through  the 
assistance  of  kind  friends,  permission  from  the  Spanish 
government  to  print  an  edition  of  the  sacred  volume  at 
Madrid,  which  I subsequently  circulated  in  that  capital 
and  in  the  provinces. 

During  my  sojourn  in  Spain,  there  were  others  who 
wrought  good  service  in  the  Gospel  cause,  and  of  whose 
efforts  it  were  unjust  to  be  silent  in  a work  of  this  de- 
scription. Base  is  the  heart  which  would  refuse  merit 
its  meed,  and,  however  insignificant  may  be  the  value  of 
any  eulogium  which  can  flow  from  a pen  like  mine,  I cannot 
refrain  from  mentioning  with  respect  and  esteem  a few 
names  connected  with  Gospel  enterprise.  A zealous  Irish 
gentleman,  of  the  name  of  Graydon,  exerted  himself  with 
indefatigable  diligence  in  diffusing  the  light  of  Scripture 
in  the  province  of  Catalonia,  and  along  the  southern  shores 
of  Spain;  whilst  two  missionaries  from  Gibraltar,  Messrs. 
Rule  and  Lyon,  during  one  entire  year,  preached  Evangelic 
truth  in  a Church  at  Cadiz.  So  much  success  attended 
the  efforts  of  these  two  last  brave  disciples  of  the  immortal 
Wesley,  that  there  is  every  reason  for  supposing  that,  had 
they  not  been  silenced  and  eventually  banished  from  the 
country  by  the  pseudo-liberal  faction  of  the  Moderados, 
not  only  Cadiz,  but  the  greater  part  of  Andalusia,  would 
by  this  time  have  confessed  the  pure  doctrines  of  the 
Gospel,  and  have  discarded  for  ever  the  last  relics  of  popish 
superstition. 

More  immediately  connected  with  the  Bible  Society 
and  myself,  I am  most  happy  to  take  this  opportunity 
of  speaking  of  Luis  de  Usoz  y Rio,  the  scion  of  an  ancient 
and  honourable  family  of  Old  Castile,  my  coadjutor  whilst 
editing  the  Spanish  New  Testament  at  Madrid.  Through- 
out my  residence  in  Spain,  I experienced  every  mark  of 
friendship  from  this  gentleman,  who,  during  the  periods 
of  my  absence  in  the  provinces,  and  my  numerous  and 
long  journeys,  cheerfully  supplied  my  place  at  Madrid, 
and  exerted  himself  to  the  utmost  in  forwarding  the  views 
of  the  Bible  Society,  influenced  by  no  other  motive  than 
a hope  that  its  efforts  would  eventually  contribute  to  the 
peace,  happiness,  and  civilisation  of  his  native  land. 

In  conclusion,  I beg  leave  to  state  that  I am  fully  aware 
of  the  various  faults  and  inaccuracies  of  the  present  work. 
It  is  founded  on  certain  journals  which  I kept  during  my 
stay  in  Spain,  and  numerous  letters  written  to  my  friends 
in  England,  which  they  h&4  subsequently  the  kindness 


PREFACE 


13 


to  restore:  the  greater  part,  however,  consisting  of  descrip- 
tions of  scenery,  sketches  of  character,  etc.,  has  been 
supplied  from  memory.  In  various  instances  I have 
omitted  the  names  of  places,  which  I have  either  forgotten, 
or  of  whose  orthography  I am  uncertain.  The  work,  as 
it  at  present  exists,  was  written  in  a solitary  hamlet  in  a 
remote  part  of  England,  where  I had  neither  books  to 
consult,  nor  friends  of  whose  opinion  or  advice  I could 
occasionally  avail  myself,  and  under  all  the  disadvantages 
which  arise  from  enfeebled  health;  I have,  however,  on  a 
recent  occasion,  experienced  too  much  of  the  lenity  and 
generosity  of  the  public,  both  of  Britain  and  America,  to 
shrink  from  again  exposing  myself  to  its  gaze,  and  trust 
that,  if  in  the  present  volumes  it  finds  but  little  to  admire, 
it  will  give  me  credit  for  good  spirit,  and  for  setting  down 
nought  in  malice. 

Nov.  26,  1842. 


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CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Author’s  Preface  ......  7 

CHAP. 

1.  Man  Overboard — The  Tagus — Foreign  Languages — Gesticula- 

tion— Streets  of  Lisbon — The  Aqueduct — Bible  tolerated  in 
Portugal — Cintra — Don  Sebastian — John  de  Castro — Con- 
versation with  a Priest — Colhares — Mafra—  Its  Palace — 

The  Schoolmaster — The  Portuguese — Their  Ignorance  of 
Scripture — Rural  Priesthood — The  Alemtejo  . . 21 

2.  Boatmen  of  the  Tagus — Dangers  of  the  Stream — Aldea  Gallega 

— The  Hostelry — Robbers — Sabocha — Adventure  of  a Mule- 
teer— Estalagem  de  Ladroes — Don  Geronimo — Yendas 
Novas — Royal  Residence — Swine  of  the  Alemtejo — Monte 
Moro — Swayne  Yonved — Singular  Goatherd — Children  of 
the  Fields — Infidels  and  Sadducees  . . . .30 

3.  Shopkeeper  at  Evora — Spanish  Contrabandistas — Lion  and 

Unicorn — The  Fountain — Trust  in  the  Almighty — Distribu- 
tion of  Tracts — Library  at  Evora — Manuscript — The  Bible 
as  a Guide — The  Infamous  Mary — The  Man  of  Palmella — 

The  Charm — The  Monkish  System — Sunday — Yolney — An 
Auto-da-fd — Men  from  Spain — Reading  of  a Tract — New 
Arrival — The  Herb  Rosemary  . . . .40 

4.  Vexatious  Delays — Drunken  Driver — The  Murdered  Mule — 

The  Lamentation — Adventure  on  the  Heath — Fear  of  Dark- 
ness— Portuguese  Fidalgo — The  Escort — Return  to  Lisbon  49 

5.  The  College — The  Rector — Shibboleth — National  Prejudices 

— Youthful  Sports — Jews  of  Lisbon — Bad  Faith — Crime  and 
Superstition — Strange  Proposal  ....  56 

6.  Cold  of  Portugal — Extortion  prevented — Sensation  of  Loneli- 

ness— The  Dog — The  Convent — Enchanting  Landscape — 
Moorish  Fortresses — Prayer  for  the  Sick  ...  63 

7.  The  Druids’  Stone — The  Young  Spaniard — Ruffianly  Soldiers 

— Evils  of  War — Estremoz — The  Brawl — Ruined  Watch 
Tower — Glimpse  of  Spain — Old  Times  and  New  . . 70 

8.  Elvas — Extraordinary  Longevity — The  English  Nation — 

15 


16 


CONTENTS 


CHAP. 

Portuguese  Ingratitude  — Illiberality  — Fortifications  — 
Spanish  Beggar — Badajoz — The  Custom  House 

9.  Badajoz — Antonio  the  Gypsy — Antonio’s  Proposal — The  Pro- 
posal accepted — Gypsy  Breakfast — Departure  from  Badajoz 
— The  Gypsy  Donkey — Merida — The  Ruined  Wall — The 
Crone — The  Land  of  the  Moor — The  Black  Men — Life  in 
the  Desert — The  Supper  ..... 

10.  The  Gypsy’s  Granddaughter — Proposed  Marriage — The 

Alguazil — The  Assault — Speedy  Trot — Arrival  at  Trujillo 
— Night  and  Rain — The  Forest — The  Bivouac — Mount  and 
Away  1 — Jaraicejo — The  National — The  Cavalier  Balmerson 
— Among  the  Thickets  — Serious  Discourse  — What  is 
Truth  ?— Unexpected  Intelligence  .... 

11.  The  Pass  of  Mirabete — Wolves  and  Shepherds — Female 

Subtlety — Death  by  Wolves — The  Mystery  Solved— The 
Mountains — The  Dark  Hour — The  Traveller  of  the  Night — 
Abarbenel — Hoarded  Treasure — Force  of  Gold — The  Arch- 
bishop— Arrival  at  Madrid  ..... 

12.  Lodging  at  Madrid — My  Hostess — British  Ambassador — 

Mendizabal — Baltasar — Duties  of  a National — Young  Blood 
— The  Execution — Population  of  Madrid — The  Higher 
Orders — The  Lower  Classes — The  Bull  Fighter — The 
Crabbed  Gitdno  ...... 

13.  Intrigues  at  Court — Quesada  and  Galiano — Dissolution  of  the 

Cortes  — The  Secretary  — Aragonese  Pertinacity  — The 
Council  pf  Trent — The  Asturian — The  Three  Thieves — 
Benedict  Mol — The  Men  of  Lucerne— The  Treasure 

14.  State  of  Spain — Isturitz — Revolution  of  the  Granja — The 

Disturbance — Signs  of  Mischief — Newspaper  Reporters — 
Quesada’s  -Onslaught — The  Closing  Scene — Flight  of  the 
Moderados — The  Coffee  Bowl  .... 

15.  The  Steamer— Cape  Finisterre— The  Storm — Arrival  at 

Cadiz — The  New  Testament — Seville — Italics — The  Amphi- 
theatre— The  Prisoners — The  Encounter — Baron  Taylor — 
The  Street  and  Desert  ..... 

16.  Departure  for  Cordova  — Carmona  — German  Colonies — 

Language — The  Sluggish  Horse — Nocturnal  Welcome — 
Carlist  Landlord — Good  Advice — Gomez — The  Old  Genoese 
— The  Two  Opinions  . . . . . . 

17.  Cordova — Moors  of  Barbary — The  English — An  Old  Priest — 

The  Roman  Breviary — The  Dovecote — The  Holy  Office — 


PAGE 

77 


83 


94 


108 


119 


129 


138 


147 


156 


CONTENTS  17 

CHAP.  PAGE 

Judaism  — Desecration  of  Dovecotes  — The  Innkeeper’s 
Proposal  . • . . . . .164 

18.  Departure  from  Cordova — The  Contrabandista — Jewish 

Cunning — Arrival  at  Madrid  . . . . .172 


19.  Arrival  at  Madrid — Maria  Diaz — Printing  of  the  Testament — 

My  Project  — Andalusian  Steed — Servant  wanted  — An 
Application  — Antonio  Buchini  — General  Cordova — Prin- 
ciples of  Honour  . . . . . .175 

20.  Illness — Nocturnal  Visit — A Master  Mind — The  Whisper — 

Salamanca  — Irish  Hospitality  — Spanish  Soldiers  — The 
Scriptures  advertised  . . . . .182 

21.  Departure  from  Salamanca  — Reception  at  Pitiegua — The 

Dilemma  — Sudden  Inspiration  — The  Good  Presbyter — 
Combat  of  Quadrupeds — Irish  Christians — Plains  of  Spain — 

The  Catalans — The  Fatal  Pool — Valladolid — Circulation  of 
the  Scriptures — Philippine  Missions — English  College — A 
Conversation — The  Gaoleress  ....  189 

22.  Duenas — Children  of  Egypt — J ockeyism — The  Baggage  Pony 

— The  Fall — Palencia — Carlist  Priests — The  Lookout — 
Priestly  Sincerity — Leon  — Antonio  alarmed — Heat  and 
Dust  ........  203 

23.  Astorga — The  Inn — The  Maragatos — Habits  of  the  Maragatos 

— The  Statue  .......  212 

24.  departure  from  Astorga — The  Venta — The  By-path — Narrow 

Escape — The  Cup  of  Water — Sun  and  Shade — Bembibre — 
Convent  of  the  Rocks — Sunset  — Cacabelos  — Midnight 
Adventure — Villafranca  .....  216 

25.  Villafranca— The  Pass — Gallegan  Simplicity — The  Frontier 

Guard — The  Horse-shoe — Gallegan  Peculiarities — A Word 
on  Language — The  Courier — Wretched  Cabins — Host  and  226 

Guests — Andalusians  . ..... 

26.  Lugo — The  Baths. — A Family  History  — Miguelets  — The 

Three  Heads  — A Farrier  — English  Squadron  — Sale  of 
Testaments  — Coruna — The  Recognition  — Luigi  Piozzi — 

The  Speculation — A Blank  Prospect — John  Moore  . . 235 

27.  Compostella — Rey  Romero — The  Treasure-seeker — Hopeful 

Project  — The  Church  of  Refuge — Hidden  Riches — The 
Canon — Spirit  of  Localism — The  Leper  — Bones  of  St. 

James  .......  246 

28.  Skippers  of  Padron — Caldas  de  los  Reyes — Pontevedra — The 


18 


CONTENTS 


CHAP.  PAGE 

Notary  Public — Insane  Barber — An  Introduction — Gallegan 
Language — Afternoon  Ride — Vigo — The  Stranger — Jews  of 
the  Desert  — Bay  of  Vigo  — Sudden  Interruption  — The 
Governor  .......  225 

29.  Arrival  at  Padron — Projected  Enterprise — The  Alquilador — 

Breach  of  Promise — An  Odd  Companion — A Plain  Story — 
Rugged  Paths — The  Desertion — The  Pony — A Dialogue — 
Unpleasant  Situation — The  Estadea — Benighted — The  Hut 
— The  Traveller’s  Pillow  .....  266 

30.  Autumnal  Morning — The  World’s  End — Corcuvion — Duyo — 

The  Cape — A Whale — The  Outer  Bay — The  Arrest — The 
Fisher-Magistrate — Calros  Rey — Hard  of  Belief — Where  is 
your  Passport? — The  Beach — A Mighty  Liberal — The 
Handmaid  — The  Grand  Baintham  — Eccentric  Book  — 
Hospitality  .......  277 

31.  Corufia — Crossing  the  Bay — Ferrol — The  Dockyard — Where 

are  we  now? — Greek  Ambassador  — Lantern-light — The 
Ravine — Viveiro — Evening  — Marsh  and  Quagmire — Fair 
Words  and  Fair  Money — The  Leathern  Girth — Eyes  of  Lynx 


— The  Knavish  Guide  .....  290 

32.  Martin  of  Rivadeo — The  Factious  Mare — Asturians — Luarca 

— The  Seven  Bellotas — Hermits — The  Asturian’s  Tale — 
Strange  Guests — The  Big  Servant — Batuschca  . . 300 

33.  Oviedo — The  Ten  Gentlemen — The  Swiss  again — Modest 

Request  — The  Robbers  — Episcopal  Benevolence  — The 
Cathedral — Portrait  of  Feijoo  ....  309 


34.  Departure  from  Oviedo — Villa  Viciosa — The  Young  Man  of 

the  Inn — Antonio’s  Tale — The  General  and  his  Family — 

Woful  Tidings  — To-morrow  we  die  — San  Vincente  — 
Santander — An  Harangue — Flinter  the  Irishman  • . 316 

35.  Departure  from  Santander — The  Night  Alarm — The  Black 

Pass 324 

36.  State  of  Affairs  at  Madrid — The  New  Ministry — Pope  of  Rome 

— The  Bookseller  of  Toledo — Sword  Blades — Houses  of 
Toledo — The  Forlorn  Gypsy — Proceedings  at  Madrid — 
Another  Servant  ......  327 

37.  Euscarra — Basque  not  Irish — Sanskrit  and  Tartar  Dialects — 

A Vowel  Language — Popular  Poetry — The  Basques — Their 
Persons — Basque  Women  .....  334 

38.  The  Prohibition — Gospel  Persecuted — Charge  of  Sorcery — 

Ofalia 340 


CONTENTS 


19 


CHAP. 

39.  The  Two  Gospels — The  Alguazil — The  Warrant — The  Good 

Maria — The  Arrest — Sent  to  Prison — Reflections — The 
Reception — The  Prison  Room — Redress  Demanded 

40.  Of  alia — The  Juez — Carcel  de  la  Corte — Sunday  in  Prison — 

Robber  Dress — Father  and  Son — Characteristic  Behaviour 
— The  Frenchman  — Prison  Allowance  — Valley  of  the 
Shadow — Pure  Castilian — Balseiro— -The  Cave — Robber 
Glory  . . . . . ... 

41.  Maria  Diaz — Priestly  Vituperation — Antonio’s  Visit — Antonio 

at  Service — A Scene — Benedict  Mol — Wandering  in  Spain 
— The  Four  Evangiles  ..... 

42.  Liberation  from  Prison — The  Apology — Human  Nature — The 

Greek’s  Return — Church  of  Rome — Light  of  Scripture — 
Archbishop  of  Toledo — An  Interview — Stones  of  Price — A 
Resolution — The  Foreign  Language — Benedict’s  Farewell — 
Treasure  Hunt  at  Compos tella — Truth  and  Fiction  . • 

43.  Villa  Seca — Moorish  House — The  Puchera — The  Rustic 

Council — Polite  Ceremonial — The  Flower  of  Spain — The 
Bridge  of  Azeca — The  Ruined  Castle — Taking  the  Field — 
Demand  for  the  Word — The  Old  Peasant — The  Curate  and 
Blacksmith — Cheapness  of  the  Scriptures  . 

44.  Aranjuez — A Warning — A Night  Adventure — A Fresh  Ex- 

pedition— Segovia — Abades — Factious  Curas — Lopez  in 
Prison — Rescue  of  Lopez  ..... 

45.  Return  to  Spain — Seville — A Hoary  Persecutor — Manchegan 

Prophetess — Antonio’s  Dream  .... 

46.  Work  of  Distribution  resumed — Adventure  at  Cobenna — 

Power  of  the  Clergy — Rural  Authorities — Fuente  la  Higuera 
— Victoriano’s  Mishap  — Village  Prison  — The  Rope — 
Antonio’s  Errand — Antonio  at  Mass  .... 

47.  Termination  of  our  Rural  Labours — Alarm  of  the  Clergy — A 

New  Experiment — Success  at  Madrid — Goblin-Alguazil — 
Staff  of  Office — The  Corregidor — An  Explanation — The 
Pope  in  England — New  Testament  expounded — Works  of 
Luther  ....... 

48.  Projected  Journey — A Scene  of  Blood — The  Friar — Seville — 

Beauties  of  Seville — Orange  Trees  and  Flowers — Murillo — 
The  Guardian  Angel — Dionysius — My  Coadjutors — Demand 
for  the  Bible  ....... 

49.  The  Solitary  House — The  Dehesa — Johannes  Chrysostom — 


PAGE 

343 

352 

363 

370 

380 

390 

397 

400 

408 

415 


20 


CONTENTS 


CHAP. 

Manuel — Bookselling  at  Seville — Dionysius  and  the  Priests 
— Athens  and  Rome — Proselvtism — Seizure  of  Testaments 
— Departure  from  Seville  ..... 

50.  Night  on  the  Guadalquivir — Gospel  Light — Bonanza — Strand 

of  San  Lucar — Andalusian  Scenery — History  of  a Chest— 
Cosas  de  los  Ingleses — The  Two  Gypsies — The  Driver — 
The  Red  Nightcap — The  Steam  Boat — Christian  Language 

51.  Cadiz — The  Fortifications — The  Consul-General — Character- 

istic Anecdote — Catalan  Steamer — Trafalgar — Alonzo  Guz- 
man— Gibil  Muza — Orestes  Frigate — The  Hostile  Lion — 
Works  of  the  Creator — Lizard  of  the  Rock — The  Concourse 
— Queen  of  the  Waters — Broken  Prayer 

52.  The  Jolly  Hosteler — Aspirants  for  Glory — A Portrait — 

Hamalos — Solomons — An  Expedition — The  Yeoman  Soldier 
— The  Excavations — The  Pull  by  the  Skirt — Judah  and  his 
Father — Judah’s  Pilgrimage — The  Bushy  Beard — The  False 
Moors — Judah  and  the  King’s  Son — Premature  Old  Age  . 

53.  Genoese  Mariners — St.  Michael’s  Cave — Midnight  Abysses — 

Young  American — A Slave  Proprietor — The  Fairy  Man — 
Infidelity  . ..... 

54.  Again  on  Board — The  Strange  Visage — The  Hadji — Setting 

Sail — The  Two  Jews — American  Vessel — Tangier — Adun 
Oulem — The  Struggle — The  Forbidden  Thing 

55.  The  Mole — The  Two  Moors — Djmah  of  Tangier — House  of 

God — British  Consul — Curious  Spectacle — The  Moorish 
House — Joanna  Correa — Ave  Maria. 

56.  The  Mahasni — Sin  Samani — The  Bazaar — Moorish  Saints — 

See  the  Ayana  ! — The  Prickly  Fig — Jewish  Graves — The 
Place  of  Carcases — The  Stable  Boy — Horses  of  the  Moslem 
— Dar  Dwag  ... 

57.  Strange  Trio — The  Mulatto — The  Peace-offering — Moors  of 

Granada — Vive  la  Guadeloupe — The  Moors — Pascual  Fava 
— Blind  Algerine — The  Retreat  • • . 


FAG* 

423 

431 

440 

452 

464 

469 

477 

483 

491 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  I 

Man  Overboard — The  Tagus — Foreign  Languages — Gesticulation — Streets 
of  Lisbon — The  Aqueduct — Bible  tolerated  in  Portugal — Cintra 
— Don  Sebastian — John  de  Castro — Conversation  with  a Priest 
— Colhares — Mafra — Its  Palace — The  Schoolmaster — The  Portuguese 
— Their  Ignorance  of  Scripture — Rural  Priesthood — The  Alemtejo. 

On  the  morning  of  the  tenth  of  November,  1835,  I found 
myself  of!  the  coast  of  Galicia,  whose  lofty  mountains,  gilded 
by  the  rising  sun,  presented  a magnificent  appearance.  I 
was  bound  for  Lisbon;  we  passed  Cape  Finisterre,  and 
standing  farther  out  to  sea,  speedily  lost  sight  of  land.  On 
the  morning  of  the  eleventh  the  sea  was  very  rough,  and  a 
remarkable  circumstance  occurred.  I was  on  the  fore- 
castle, discoursing  with  two  of  the  sailors:  one  of  them, 
who  had  but  just  left  his  hammock,  said,  “ I have  had  a 
strange  dream,  which  I do  not  much  like,  for,”  continued  he, 
pointing  up  to  the  mast,  “ I dreamt  that  I fell  into  the  sea 
from  the  cross-trees.”  He  was  heard  to  say  this  by  several 
of  the  crew  besides  myself.  A moment  after,  the  captain  of 
the  vessel  perceiving  that  the  squall  was  increasing,  ordered 
the  topsails  to  be  taken  in,  whereupon  this  man  with  several 
others  instantly  ran  aloft;  the  yard  was  in  the  act  of  being 
hauled  down,  when  a sudden  gust  of  wind  whirled  it  round 
with  violence,  and  a man  was  struck  down  from  the  cross- 
trees  into  the  sea,  which  was  working  like  yeast  below.  In 
a short  time  he  emerged;  I saw  his  head  on  the  crest  of  a 
billow,  and  instantly  recognised  in  the  unfortunate  man  the 
sailor  who  a few  moments  before  had  related  his  dream. 
I shall  never  forget  the  look  of  agony  he  cast  whilst  the 
steamer  hurried  past  him.  The  alarm  was  given,  and 
everything  was  in  confusion;  it  was  two  minutes  at  least 
before  the  vessel  was  stopped,  by  which  time  the  man  was  a 
considerable  way  astern;  I still,  however,  kept  my  eye  upon 
him,  and  could  see  that  he  was  struggling  gallantly  with  the 
waves.  A boat  was  at  length  lowered,  but  the  rudder  was 
unfortunately  not  at  hand,  and  only  two  oars  could  be 
procured,  with  which  the  men  could  make  but  little  progress 
ip  §o  rough  a sea.  THey  did  their  best,  however,  and  had 

21 


22 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


arrived  within  ten  yards  of  the  man,  who  still  struggled  for 
his  life,  when  I lost  sight  of  him,  and  the  men  on  their  return 
said  that  they  saw  him  below  the  water,  at  glimpses,  sinking 
deeper  and  deeper,  his  arms  stretched  out  and  his  body 
apparently  stiff,  but  that  they  found  it  impossible  to  save 
him;  presently  after,  the  sea,  as  if  satisfied  with  the  prey 
which  it  had  acquired,  became  comparatively  calm.  The 
poor  fellow  who  perished  in  this  singular  manner  was  a fine 
young  man  of  twenty-seven,  the  only  son  of  a widowed 
mother;  he  was  the  best  sailor  on  board,  and  was  beloved 
by  all  who  were  acquainted  with  him.  This  event  occurred 
on  the  eleventh  of  November,  1835  ; the  vessel  was  the 
London  Merchant  steamship.  Truly  wonderful  are  the  ways 
of  Providence! 

That  same  night  we  entered  the  Tagus,  and  dropped 
anchor  before  the  old  tower  of  Belem  ; early  the  next 
morning  we  weighed,  and,  proceeding  onward  about  a 
league,  we  again  anchored  at  a short  distance  from  the 
Caesodr6,  or  principal  quay  of  Lisbon.  Here  we  lay  for 
some  hours  beside  the  enormous  black  hulk  of  the  Rainha 
Nao,  a man-of-war,  which  in  old  times  so  captivated  the 
eye  of  Nelson,  that  he  would  fain  have  procured  it  for  his 
native  country.  She  was,  long  subsequently,  the  admiral's 
ship  of  the  Miguelite  squadron,  and  had  been  captured  by 
the  gallant  Napier  about  three  years  previous  to  the  time  of 
which  I am  speaking. 

The  Rainha  Nao  is  said  to  have  caused  him  more  trouble 
than  all  the  other  vessels  of  the  enemy;  and  some  assert 
that,  had  the  others  defended  themselves  with  half  the  fury 
which  the  old  vixen  queen  displayed,  the  result  of  the  battle 
which  decided  the  fate  of  Portugal  would  have  been  widely 
different. 

I found  disembarkation  at  Lisbon  to  be  a matter  of 
considerable  vexation ; the  custom-house  officers  were 
exceedingly  uncivil,  and  examined  every  article  of  my 
little  baggage  with  most  provocating  minuteness. 

My  first  impression  on  landing  in  the  Peninsula  was  by 
no  means  a favourable  one;  and  I had  scarcely  pressed  the 
soil  one  hour  before  I heartily  wished  myself  back  in 
Russia,  a country  which  I had  quitted  about  one  month 
previous,  and  where  I had  left  cherished  friends  and  warm 
affections. 

After  having  submitted  to  much  ill-usage  and  robbery 
at  the  custom-house,  I proceeded  in  quest  of  a lodging, 
and  at  last  found  one,  but  dirty  and  expensive.  The  next 
day  I hired  a servant,  a Portuguese,  it  being  my  invariable 
custom  on  arriving  in  a country  to  avail  myself  of  the 
services  of  a native  ; chiefly  with  the  view  of  perfecting 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


23 


myself  in  the  language;  and  being  already  acquainted 
with  most  of  the  principal  languages  and  dialects  of  the 
east  and  the  west,  I am  soon  able  to  make  myself  quite 
intelligible  to  the  inhabitants.  In  about  a fortnight  I 
found  myself  conversing  in  Portuguese  with  considerable 
fluency. 

Those  who  wish  to  make  themselves  understood  by  a 
foreigner  in  his  own  language,  should  speak  with  much 
noise  and  vociferation,  opening  their  mouths  wide.  Is  it 
surprising  that  the  English  are,  in  general,  the  worst 
linguists  in  the  world,  seeing  that  they  pursue  a system 
diametrically  opposite?  For  example,  when  they  attempt 
to  speak  Spanish,  the  most  sonorous  tongue  in  existence, 
they  scarcely  open  their  lips,  and  putting  their  hands  in 
their  pockets,  fumble  lazily,  instead  of  applying  them  to 
the  indispensable  office  of  gesticulation.  Well  may  the 
poor  Spaniards  exclaim,  These  English  talk  so  crabbedly, 
that  Satan  himself  would  not  be  able  to  understand  them. 

Lisbon  is  a huge  ruinous  city,  still  exhibiting  in  almost 
every  direction  the  vestiges  of  that  terrific  visitation  of 
God,  the  earthquake  which  shattered  it  some  eighty 
years  ago.  It  stands  on  seven  hills,  the  loftiest  of  which 
is  occupied  by  the  castle  of  Saint  George,  which  is  the 
boldest  and  most  prominent  object  to  the  eye,  whilst 
surveying  the  city  from  the  Tagus.  The  most  frequented 
and  busy  parts  of  the  city  are  those  comprised  within  the 
valley  to  the  north  of  this  elevation. 

Here  you  find  the  Plaza  of  the  Inquisition,  the  principal 
square  in  Lisbon,  from  which  run  parallel  towards  the 
river  three  or  four  streets,  amongst  which  are  those  of  the 
gold  and  silver,  so  designated  from  being  inhabited  by 
smiths  cunning  in  the  working  of  those  metals;  they  are 
upon  the  whole  very  magnificent;  the  houses  are  huge 
and  as  high  as  castles;  immense  pillars  defend  the  causeway 
at  intervals,  producing,  however,  rather  a cumbrous  effect. 
These  streets  are  quite  level,  and  are  well  paved,  in  which 
respect  they  differ  from  all  the  others  in  Lisbon.  The 
most  singular  street,  however,  of  all  is  that  of  the  Alemcrin, 
or  Rosemary,  which  debouches  on  the  CaesodrS.  It  is 
very  precipitous,  and  is  occupied  on  either  side  by  the 
palaces  of  the  principal  Portuguese  nobility,  massive  and 
frowning,  but  grand  and  picturesque,  edifices,  with  here 
and  there  a hanging  garden,  overlooking  the  streets  at  a 
great  height. 

With  all  its  ruin  and  desolation,  Lisbon  is  unquestion- 
ably the  most  remarkable  city  in  the  Peninsula,  and, 
perhaps,  in  the  south  of  Europe.  It  is  not  my  intention 
to  enter  into  minute  details  concerning  it;  I shall  content 


24 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


myself  with  remarking,  that  it  is  quite  as  much  deserving 
the  attention  of  the  artist  as  even  Rome  itself.  True  it 
is  that  though  it  abounds  with  churches  it  has  no  gigantic 
cathedral,  like  St.  Peter's,  to  attract  the  eye  and  fill  it  with 
wonder,  yet  I boldly  say  that  there  is  no  monument  of  man's 
labour  and  skill,  pertaining  either  to  ancient  or  modern 
Rome,  for  whatever  purpose  designed,  which  can  rival 
the  water-works  of  Lisbon ; I mean  the  stupendous  aqueduct 
whose  principal  arches  cross  the  valley  to  the  north-east 
of  Lisbon,  and  which  discharges  its  little  runnel  of  cool 
and  delicious  water  into  the  rocky  cistern  within  that 
beautiful  edifice  called  the  Mother  of  the  Waters,  from 
whence  all  Lisbon  is  supplied  with  the  crystal  lymph, 
though  the  source  is  seven  leagues  distant.  Let  travellers 
devote  one  entire  morning  to  inspecting  the  Arcos  and  the 
Mai  das  Agoas,  after  which  they  may  repair  to  the  English 
church  and  cemetery,  Pere-la-chaise  in  miniature,  where, 
if  they  be  of  England,  they  may  well  be  excused  if  they 
kiss  the  cold  tomb,  as  I did,  of  the  author  of  Amelia , the 
most  singular  genius  which  their  island  ever  produced, 
whose  works  it  has  long  been  the  fashion  to  abuse  in  public 
and  to  read  in  secret.  In  the  same  cemetery  rest  the 
mortal  remains  of  Doddridge,  another  English  author  of 
a different  stamp,  but  justly  admired  and  esteemed.  I 
had  not  intended,  on  disembarking,  to  remain  long  in  Lisbon, 
nor  indeed  in  Portugal ; my  destination  was  Spain,  whither 
I shortly  proposed  to  direct  my  steps,  it  being  the  intention 
of  the  Bible  Society  to  attempt  to  commence  operations 
in  that  country,  the  object  of  which  should  be  the  distribu- 
tion of  the  Word  of  God,  for  Spain  had  hitherto  been  a 
region  barred  against  the  admission  of  the  Bible;  not  so 
Portugal,  where,  since  the  revolution,  the  Bible  had  been 
permitted  both  to  be  introduced  and  circulated.  Little, 
however,  had  been  accomplished;  therefore,  finding  myself 
in  the  country,  I determined,  if  possible,  to  effect  something 
in  the  way  of  distribution,  but  first  of  all  to  make  myself 
acquainted  as  to  how  far  the  people  were  disposed  to 
receive  the  Bible,  and  whether  the  state  of  education  in 
general  would  permit  them  to  turn  it  to  much  account. 
I had  plenty  of  Bibles  and  Testaments  at  my  disposal, 
but  could  the  people  read  them,  or  would  they?  A friend 
of  the  Society  to  whom  I was  recommended  was  absent 
from  Lisbon  at  the  period  of  my  arrival;  this  I regretted, 
as  he  could  have  afforded  me  several  useful  hints.  In 
order,  however,  that  no  time  might  be  lost,  I determined 
not  to  wait  for  his  arrival,  but  at  once  proceed  to  gather 
the  best  information  I could  upon  those  points  to  which  I 
have  already  alluded.  I determined  to  commence  my 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


25 


researches  at  some  slight  distance  from  Lisbon,  being  well 
aware  of  the  erroneous  ideas  that  I must  form  of  the 
Portuguese  in  general,  should  I judge  of  their  character 
and  opinions  from  what  I saw  and  heard  in  a city  so  much 
subjected  to  foreign  intercourse. 

My  first  excursion  was  to  Cintra.  If  there  be  any 
place  in  the  world  entitled  to  the  appellation  of  an  enchanted 
region,  it  is  surely  Cintra;  Tivoli  is  a beautiful  and 
picturesque  place,  but  it  quickly  fades  from  the  mind 
of  those  who  have  seen  the  Portuguese  Paradise.  When 
speaking  of  Cintra,  it  must  not  for  a moment  be  supposed 
that  nothing  more  is  meant  than  the  little  town  or  city; 
by  Cintra  must  be  understood  the  entire  region,  town, 
palace,  quintas,  forests,  crags,  Moorish  ruin,  which  suddenly 
burst  on  the  view  on  rounding  the  side  of  a bleak,  savage, 
and  sterile-looking  mountain.  Nothing  is  more  sullen  and 
uninviting  than  the  south-western  aspect  of  the  stony 
wall  which,  on  the  side  of  Lisbon,  seems  to  shield  Cintra 
from  the  eye  of  the  world,  but  the  other  side  is  a mingled 
scene  of  fairy  beauty,  artificial  elegance,  savage  grandeur, 
domes,  turrets,  enormous  trees,  flowers  and  waterfalls, 
such  as  is  met  with  nowhere  else  beneath  the  sun.  Oh! 
there  are  strange  and  wonderful  objects  at  Cintra,  and 
strange  and  wonderful  recollections  attached  to  them. 
The  ruin  on  that  lofty  peak,  and  which  covers  part  of 
the  side  of  that  precipitous  steep,  was  once  the  principal 
stronghold  of  the  Lusitanian  Moors,  and  thither,  long 
after  they  had  disappeared,  at  a particular  moon  of  every 
year,  were  wont  to  repair  wild  santons  of  Maugrabie,  to 
pray  at  the  tomb  of  a famous  Sidi,  who  slumbers  amongst 
the  rocks.  That  grey  palace  witnessed  the  assemblage 
of  the  last  cortes  held  by  the  boy  king  Sebastian,  ere  he 
departed  on  his  romantic  expedition  against  the  Moors, 
who  so  well  avenged  their  insulted  faith  and  country  at 
Alcazarquibir,  and  in  that  low  shady  quinta,  embowered 
amongst  those  tall  alcornoques,  once  dwelt  John  de  Castro, 
the  strange  old  viceroy  of  Goa,  who  pawned  the  hairs  of  his 
dead  son’s  beard  to  raise  money  to  repair  the  ruined  wall 
of  a fortress  threatened  by  the  heathen  of  Ind;  those 
crumbling  stones  which  stand  before  the  portal,  deeply 
graven,  not  with  “ runes,”  but  things  equally  dark,  Sanscrit 
rhymes  from  the  Vedas,  were  brought  by  him  from  Goa, 
the  most  brilliant  scene  of  his  glory,  before  Portugal  had 
become  a base  kingdom;  and  down  that  dingle,  on  an 
abrupt  rocky  promontory,  stand  the  ruined  halls  of  the 
English  Millionaire,  who  there  nursed  the  wayward  fancies 
of  a mind  as  wild,  rich,  and  variegated  as  the  scenes  around. 
Yes,  wonderful  are  the  objects  which  meet  the  eye  at 


26  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

Cintra,  and  wonderful  are  the  recollections  attached  to 
them. 

The  town  of  Cintra  contains  about  eight  hundred 
inhabitants.  The  morning  subsequent  to  my  arrival, 
as  I was  about  to  ascend  the  mountain  for  the  purpose 
of  examining  the  Moorish  ruins,  I observed  a person 
advancing  towards  me  whom  I judged  by  his  dress  to  be 
an  ecclesiastic;  he  was  in  fact  one  of  the  three  priests  of 
the  place.  I instantly  accosted  him,  and  had  no  reason 
to  regret  doing  so ; I found  him  affable  and  communicative. 

After  praising  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery, 
I made  some  inquiry  as  to  the  state  of  education  amongst 
the  people  under  his  care.  He  answered,  that  he  was 
sorry  to  say  that  they  were  in  a state  of  great  ignorance, 
very  few  of  the  common  people  being  able  either  to  read 
or  write;  that  with  respect  to  schools,  there  was  but  one 
in  the  place,  where  four  or  five  children  were  taught  the 
alphabet,  but  that  even  this  was  at  present  closed;  he 
informed  me,  however,  that  there  was  a school  at  Colhares, 
about  a league  distant.  Amongst  other  things,  he  said 
that  nothing  more  surprised  him  than  to  see  Englishmen, 
the  most  learned  and  intelligent  people  in  the  world, 
visiting  a place  like  Cintra,  where  there  was  no  literature, 
science,  nor  anything  of  utility  ( coisa  qne  presta).  I suspect 
that  there  was  some  covert  satire  in  the  last  speech  of  the 
worthy  priest;  I was,  however,  Jesuit  enough  to  appear 
to  receive  it  as  a high  compliment,  and,  taking  off  my  hat, 
departed  with  an  infinity  of  bows. 

That  same  day  I visited  Colhares,  a romantic  village 
on  the  side  of  the  mountain  of  Cintra,  to  the  north-west. 
Seeing  some  peasants  collected  round  a smithy,  I inquired 
about  the  school,  whereupon  one  of  the  men  instantly 
conducted  me  thither.  I went  upstairs  into  a small  apart- 
ment, where  I found  the  master  with  about  a dozen  pupils 
standing  in  a row;  I saw  but  one  stool  in  the  room,  and 
to  that,  after  having  embraced  me,  he  conducted  me  with 
great  civility.  After  some  discourse,  he  showed  me  the 
books  which  he  used  for  the  instruction  of  the  children; 
they  were  spelling  books,  much  of  the  same  kind  as  those 
used  in  the  village  schools  in  England.  Upon  my  asking 
him  whether  it  was  his  practice  to  place  the  Scriptures 
in  the  hands  of  the  children,  he  informed  me  that  long 
before  they  had  acquired  sufficient  intelligence  to  under- 
stand them  they  were  removed  by  their  parents,  in  order 
that  they  might  assist  in  the  labours  of  the  field,  and  that 
the  parents  in  general  were  by  no  means  solicitous  that 
their  children  should  learn  anything,  as  they  considered 
the  time  occupied  in  learning  as  so  much  squandered 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


27 


away.  He  said,  that  though  the  schools  were  nominally 
supported  by  the  government,  it  was  rarely  that  the  school- 
masters could  obtain  their  salaries,  on  which  account  many 
had  of  late  resigned  their  employments.  He  told  me  that 
he  had  a copy  of  the  New  Testament  in  his  possession, 
which  I desired  to  see,  but  on  examining  it  I discovered 
that  it  was  only  the  epistles  by  Pereira,  with  copious  notes. 

I asked  him  whether  he  considered  that  there  was  harm 
in  reading  the  Scriptures  without  notes:  he  replied  that 
there  was  certainly  no  harm  in  it,  but  that  simple  people, 
without  the  help  of  notes,  could  derive  but  little  benefit 
from  Scripture,  as  the  greatest  part  would  be  unintelligible 
to  them;  whereupon  I shook  hands  with  him,  and  on 
departing  said  that  there  was  no  part  of  Scripture  so 
difficult  to  understand  as  those  very  notes  which  were 
intended  to  elucidate  it,  and  that  it  would  never  have 
been  written  if  not  calculated  of  itself  to  illume  the  minds 
of  all  classes  of  mankind. 

In  a day  or  two  I made  an  excursion  to  Mafra,  distant 
about  three  leagues  from  Cintra;  the  principal  part  of  the 
way  lay  over  steep  hills,  somewhat  dangerous  for  horses; 
however,  I reached  the  place  in  safety. 

Mafra  is  a large  village  in  the  neighbourhood  of  an 
immense  building,  intended  to  serve  as  a convent  and 
palace,  and  which  is  built  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of 
the  Escurial.  In  this  edifice  exists  the  finest  library  in 
Portugal,  containing  books  on  all  sciences  and  in  all  lan- 
guages, and  well  suited  to  the  size  and  grandeur  of  the 
edifice  which  contains  it.  There  were  no  monks,  however, 
to  take  care  of  it,  as  in  former  times;  they  had  been  driven 
forth,  some  to  beg  their  bread,  some  to  serve  under  the 
banners  of  Don  Carlos,  in  Spain,  and  many,  as  I was 
informed,  to  prowl  about  as  banditti.  I found  the  place 
abandoned  to  two  or  three  menials,  and  exhibiting  an 
aspect  of  solitude  and  desolation  truly  appalling.  Whilst  I 
was  viewing  the  cloisters,  a fine  intelligent-looking  lad 
came  up  and  asked  (I  suppose  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a 
trifle)  whether  I would  permit  him  to  show  me  the  village 
church,  which  he  informed  me  was  well  worth  seeing; 
I said  no,  but  added,  that  if  he  would  show  me  the  village 
school  I should  feel  much  obliged  to  him.  He  looked  at 
me  with  astonishment,  and  assured  me  that  there  was 
nothing  to  be  seen  at  the  school,  which  did  not  contain 
more  than  half  a dozen  boys,  and  that  he  himself  was  one 
of  the  number.  On  my  telling  him,  however,  that  he 
should  show  me  no  other  place,  he  at  length  unwillingly 
attended  me.  On  the  way  I learned  from  him  that  the 
schoolmaster  was  one  of  the  friars  who  had  lately  been 


28 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

expelled  from  the  convent,  that  he  was  a very  learned 
man,  and  spoke  French  and  Greek.  We  passed  a stone 
cross,  and  the  boy  bent  his  head  and  crossed  himself  with 
much  devotion.  I mention  this  circumstance,  as  it  was 
the  first  instance  of  the  kind  which  I had  observed  amongst 
the  Portuguese  since  my  arrival.  When  near  the  house 
where  the  schoolmaster  resided,  he  pointed  it  out  to  me, 
and  then  hid  himself  behind  a wall,  where  he  awaited  my 
return. 

On  stepping  over  the  threshold  I was  confronted  by 
a short  stout  man,  between  sixty  and  seventy  years  of 
age,  dressed  in  a blue  jerkin  and  grey  trousers,  without 
shirt  or  waistcoat;  he  looked  at  me  sternly,  and  enquired 
in  the  French  language  what  was  my  pleasure.  I apolo- 
gised for  intruding  upon  him,  and  stated  that,  being 
informed  he  occupied  the  situation  of  schoolmaster,  I had 
come  to  pay  my  respects  to  him  and  to  beg  permission  to 
ask  a few  questions  respecting  the  seminary.  He  answered 
that  whoever  told  me  he  was  a schoolmaster  lied,  for  that 
he  was  a friar  of  the  convent  and  nothing  else.  “ It  is 
not  then  true,”  said  I,  “ that  all  the  convents  have  been 
broken  up  and  the  monks  dismissed?  ” “ Yes,  yes,”  said 

he  with  a sigh,  “ it  is  true;  it  is  but  too  true.”  He  then 
was  silent  for  a minute,  and  his  better  nature  overcoming 
his  angry  feelings,  he  produced  a snuff-box  and  offered 
it  to  me.  The  snuff-box  is  the  olive-branch  of  the  Portu- 
guese, and  he  who  wishes  to  be  on  good  terms  with  them 
must  never  refuse  to  dip  his  finger  and  thumb  into  it 
when  offered.  I took  therefore  a huge  pinch,  though  I 
detest  the  dust,  and  we  were  soon  on  the  best  possible  terms. 
He  was  eager  to  obtain  news,  especially  from  Lisbon  and 
Spain.  I told  him  that  the  officers  of  the  troops  at  Lisbon 
had,  the  day  before  I left  that  place,  gone  in  a body  to  the 
queen  and  insisted  upon  her  either  receiving  their  swords 
or  dismissing  her  ministers;  whereupon  he  rubbed  his  hands 
and  said  that  he  was  sure  matters  would  not  remain  tranquil 
at  Lisbon.  On  my  saying,  however,  that  I thought  the 
affairs  of  Don  Carlos  were  on  the  decline  (this  was  shortly 
after  the  death  of  Zumalacarregui),  he  frowned,  and  cried 
that  it  could  not  possibly  be,  for  that  God  was  too  just  to 
suffer  it.  I felt  for  the  poor  man  who  had  been  driven  out 
of  his  home  in  the  noble  convent  close  by,  and  from  a 
state  of  affluence  and  comfort  reduced  in  his  old  age  to 
indigence  and  misery,  for  his  present  dwelling  scarcely 
seemed  to  contain  an  article  of  furniture.  I tried  twice  or 
thrice  to  induce  him  to  converse  about  the  school,  but  he 
either  avoided  the  subject  or  said  shortly  that  he  knew 
nothing  about  it.  On  my  leaving  him,  the  boy  came  from 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


29 


his  hiding-place  and  rejoined  me;  he  said  that  he  had 
hidden  himself  through  fear  of  his  master’s  knowing  that 
he  had  brought  me  to  him,  for  that  he  was  unwilling 
that  any  stranger  should  know  that  he  was  a school- 
master. 

I asked  the  boy  whether  he  or  his  parents  were  ac- 
quainted with  the  Scripture  and  ever  read  it;  he  did  not, 
however,  seem  to  understand  me.  I must  here  observe 
that  the  boy  was  fifteen  years  of  age,  that  he  was  in  many 
respects  very  intelligent,  and  had  some  knowledge  of  the 
Latin  language;  nevertheless  he  knew  not  the  Scripture 
even  by  name,  and  I have  no  doubt,  from  what  I subse- 
quently observed,  that  at  least  two-thirds  of  his  country- 
men are  on  that  important  point  no  wiser  than  himself. 
At  the  doors  of  village  inns,  at  the  hearths  of  the  rustics, 
in  the  fields  where  they  labour,  at  the  stone  fountains  by 
the  wayside  where  they  water  their  cattle,  I have  questioned 
the  lower  class  of  the  children  of  Portugal  about  the  Scrip- 
ture, the  Bible,  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  and  in  no 
one  instance  have  they  known  what  I was  alluding  to,  or 
could  return  me  a rational  answer,  though  on  all  other 
matters  their  replies  were  sensible  enough ; indeed,  nothing 
surprised  me  more  than  the  free  and  unembarrassed  manner 
in  which  the  Portuguese  peasantry  sustain  a conversation, 
and  the  purity  of  the  language  in  which  they  express  their 
thoughts,  and  yet  few  of  them  can  read  or  write;  whereas 
the  peasantry  of  England,  whose  education  is  in  general 
much  superior,  are  in  their  conversation  coarse  and  dull 
almost  to  brutality,  and  absurdly  ungrammatical  in  their 
language,  though  the  English  tongue  is  upon  the  whole 
more  simple  in  its  structure  than  the  Portuguese. 

On  my  return  to  Lisbon  I found  our  friend , who 

received  me  very  kindly.  The  next  ten  days  were  ex- 
ceedingly rainy,  which  prevented  me  from  making  any 
excursions  into  the  country:  during  this  time  I saw  our 
friend  frequently,  and  had  long  conversations  with  him 
concerning  the  best  means  of  distributing  the  gospel.  He 
thought  we  could  do  no  better  for  the  present  than  put 
part  of  our  stock  into  the  hands  of  the  booksellers  of  Lisbon, 
and  at  the  same  time  employ  colporteurs  to  hawk  the  books 
about  the  streets,  receiving  a certain  profit  on  every  copy 
they  sold.  This  plan  was  agreed  upon  and  forthwith  put 
in  practice,  and  with  some  success.  I had  thought  of 
sending  colporteurs  into  the  neighbouring  villages,  but 
to  this  our  friend  objected.  He  thought  the  attempt 
dangerous,  as  it  was  very  possible  that  the  rural  priest- 
hood, who  still  possessed  much  influence  in  their  own 
districts,  and  who  were  for  the  most  part  decided  enemies 


30 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

to  the  spread  of  the  gospel,  might  cause  the  men  employed 
to  be  assassinated  or  ill-treated. 

I determined,  however,  ere  leaving  Portugal,  to  establish 
depots  of  Bibles  in  one  or  two  of  the  provincial  towns. 
I wished  to  visit  the  Alemtejo,  which  I had  heard  was  a 
very  benighted  region.  The  Alemtejo  means  the  province 
beyond  the  Tagus.  This  province  is  not  beautiful  and 
picturesque,  like  most  other  parts  of  Portugal:  there  are 
few  hills  and  mountains,  the  greater  part  consists  of  heaths 
broken  by  knolls,  and  gloomy  dingles,  and  forests  of 
stunted  pine;  these  places  are  infested  with  banditti. 
The  principal  city  is  Evora,  one  of  the  most  ancient  in 
Portugal,  and  formerly  the  seat  of  a branch  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion, yet  more  cruel  and  baneful  than  the  terrible  one  of 
Lisbon.  Evora  lies  about  sixty  miles  from  Lisbon,  and  to 
Evora  I determined  on  going  with  twenty  Testaments 
and  two  Bibles.  How  I fared  there  will  presently  be  seen. 


CHAPTER  II 

Boatmen  of  the  Tagus — Dangers  of  the  Stream — Aldea  Gallega — The 
Hostelry — Robbers — Sabocha — Adventure  of  a Muleteer — Estalagem 
de  Ladroes — Don  Geronimo — Vendas  Novas — Royal  Residence — 
Swine  of  the  Alemtejo — Monte  Moro — S wavne  Vonved — Singular 
Goatherd — Children  of  the  Fields — Infidels  and  Sadducees. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  sixth  of  December  I set  out  for 
Evora,  accompanied  by  my  servant.  I had  been  informed 
that  the  tide  would  serve  for  the  regular  passage-boats, 
or  felouks,  as  they  are  called,  at  about  four  o'clock,  but 
on  reaching  the  side  of  the  Tagus  opposite  to  Aldea  Gallega, 
between  which  place  and  Lisbon  the  boats  ply,  I found 
that  the  tide  would  not  permit  them  to  start  before  eight 
o'clock.  Had  I waited  for  them  I should  have  probably 
landed  at  Aldea  Gallega  about  midnight,  and  I felt  little 
inclination  to  make  my  entree  in  the  Alemtejo  at  that 
hour;  therefore,  as  I saw  small  boats  which  can  push  off 
at  any  time  lying  near  in  abundance,  I determined  upon 
hiring  one  of  them  for  the  passage,  though  the  expense 
would  be  thus  considerably  increased.  I soon  agreed  with 
a wild-looking  lad,  who  told  me  that  he  was  in  part  owner 
of  one  of  the  boats,  to  take  me  over.  I was  not  aware  of 
the  danger  in  crossing  the  Tagus  at  its  broadest  part, 
which  is  opposite  Aldea  Gallega,  at  any  time,  but  especially 
at  close  of  day  in  the  winter  season,  or  I should  certainly 
not  have  ventured.  The  lad  and  his  comrade,  a miserable 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


31 


looking  object,  whose  only  clothing,  notwithstanding  the 
season,  was  a tattered  jerkin  and  trousers,  rowed  until  we 
had  advanced  about  half  a mile  from  the  land;  they  then 
set  up  a large  sail,  and  the  lad,  who  seemed  to  direct 
everything  and  to  be  the  principal,  took  the  helm  and 
steered.  The  evening  was  now  setting  in;  the  sun  was  not 
far  from  its  bourne  in  the  horizon,  the  air  was  very  cold, 
the  wind  was  rising,  and  the  waves  of  the  noble  Tagus 
began  to  be  crested  with  foam.  I told  the  boy  that  it  was 
scarcely  possible  for  the  boat  to  carry  so  much  sail  without 
upsetting,  upon  which  he  laughed,  and  began  to  gabble 
in  a most  incoherent  manner.  He  had  the  most  harsh 
and  rapid  articulation  that  has  ever  come  under  my  observa- 
tion in  any  human  being;  it  was  the  scream  of  the  hyena 
blended  with  the  bark  of  the  terrier,  though  it  was  by 
no  means  an  index  of  his  disposition,  which  I soon  found 
to  be  light,  merry,  and  anything  but  malevolent,  for  when 
I,  in  order  to  show  him  that  I cared  little  about  him,  began 
to  hum  “ Eu  que  sou  Contrabandista  ” he  laughed  heartily 
and  said,  clapping  me  on  the  shoulder,  that  he  would  not 
drown  us  if  he  could  help  it.  The  other  poor  fellow  seemed 
by  no  means  averse  to  go  to  the  bottom;  he  sat  at  the  fore 
part  of  the  boat  looking  the  image  of  famine,  and  only 
smiled  when  the  waters  broke  over  the  weather  side  and 
soaked  his  scanty  habiliments.  In  a little  time  I had 
made  up  my  mind  that  our  last  hour  was  come;  the  wind 
was  getting  higher,  the  short  dangerous  waves  were  more 
foamy,  the  boat  was  frequently  on  its  beam,  and  the 
water  came  over  the  lee  side  in  torrents;  but  still  the 
wild  lad  at  the  helm  held  on  laughing  and  chattering, 
and  occasionally  yelling  out  part  of  the  Miguelite  air, 
“ Quando  el  Rey  chegou,”  the  singing  of  which  in  Lisbon 
is  imprisonment. 

The  stream  was  against  us,  but  the  wind  was  in  our 
favour,  and  we  sprang  along  at  a wonderful  rate,  and 
I saw  that  our  only  chance  of  escape  was  in  speedily  passing 
the  farther  bank  of  the  Tagus  where  the  bight  or  bay  at 
the  extremity  of  which  stands  Aldea  Gallega  commences, 
for  we  should  not  then  have  to  battle  with  the  waves 
of  the  stream,  which  the  adverse  wind  lashed  into  fury. 
It  was  the  will  of  the  Almighty  to  permit  us  speedily  to 
gain  this  shelter,  but  not  before  the  boat  was  nearly 
filled  with  water,  and  we  were  all  wet  to  the  skin.  At 
about  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  reached  Aldea 
Gallega,  shivering  with  cold  and  in  a most  deplorable 
plight. 

Aldea  Gallega,  or  the  Galician  Village  (for  the  two 
words  are  Spanish,  and  have  that  signification),  is  a place 


32 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

containing,  I should  think,  about  four  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  was  pitchy  dark  when  we  landed,  but  rockets  soon  began 
to  fly  about  in  all  directions,  illuming  the  air  far  and  wide. 
As  we  passed  along  the  dirty  unpaved  street  which  leads 
to  the  Largo,  or  square  in  which  the  inn  is  situated,  a 
horrible  uproar  of  drums  and  voices  assailed  our  ears. 
On  inquiring  the  cause  of  all  this  bustle,  I was  informed 
that  it  was  the  eve  of  the  Conception  of  the  Virgin. 

As  it  was  not  the  custom  of  the  people  at  the  inn  to 
furnish  provisions  for  the  guests,  I wandered  about  in 
search  of  food;  and  at  last  seeing  some  soldiers  eating 
and  drinking  in  a species  of  wine-house,  I went  in  and 
asked  the  people  to  let  me  have  some  supper,  and  in  a 
short  time  they  furnished  me  with  a tolerable  meal,  for 
which,  however,  they  charged  three  crowns. 

Having  engaged  with  a person  for  mules  to  carry  us 
to  Evora,  which  were  to  be  ready  at  five  next  morning, 
I soon  retired  to  bed,  my  servant  sleeping  in  the  same 
apartment,  which  was  the  only  one  in  the  house  vacant. 
I closed  not  my  eyes  during  the  whole  night.  Beneath 
us  was  a stable,  in  which  some  almocreves,  or  carriers, 
slept  with  their  mules;  at  our  back,  in  the  yard,  was  a 
pigsty.  How  could  I sleep?  The  hogs  grunted,  the 
mules  screamed,  and  the  almocreves  snored  most  horribly. 
I heard  the  village  clock  strike  the  hours  until  midnight, 
and  from  midnight  till  four  in  the  morning,  when  I sprang 
up  and  began  to  dress,  and  despatched  my  servant  to 
hasten  the  man  with  the  mules,  for  I was  heartily  tired  of 
the  place  and  wanted  to  leave  it.  An  old  man,  bony  and 
hale,  acompanied  by  a barefooted  lad,  brought  the  beasts, 
which  were  tolerably  good.  He  was  the  proprietor  of 
them,  and  intended,  with  the  lad,  who  was  his  nephew, 
to  accompany  us  to  Evora. 

When  we  started,  the  moon  was  shining  brightly,  and 
the  morning  was  piercingly  cold.  We  soon  entered  on  a 
sandy  hollow  way,  emerging  from  which  we  passed  by  a 
strange-looking  and  large  edifice,  standing  on  a high  bleak 
sand-hill  on  our  left.  We  were  speedily  overtaken  by  five 
or  six  men  on  horseback,  riding  at  a rapid  pace,  each 
with  a long  gun  slung  at  his  saddle,  the  muzzle  depending 
about  two  feet  below  the  horse’s  belly.  I inquired  of  the 
old  man  what  was  the  reason  of  this  warlike  array.  He 
answered,  that  the  roads  were  very  bad  (meaning  that 
they  abounded  with  robbers),  and  that  they  went  armed 
in  this  manner  for  their  defence;  they  soon  turned  off  to 
the  right  towards  Palmella. 

We  reached  a sandy  plain  studded  with  stunted  pine; 
the  road  was  little  more  than  a footpath,  and  as  we 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


33 


proceeded,  the  trees  thickened  and  became  a wood,  which 
extended  for  two  leagues,  with  clear  spaces  at  intervals, 
in  which  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep  were  feeding;  the  bells 
attached  to  their  necks  were  ringing  lowly  and  monoton- 
ously. The  sun  was  just  beginning  to  show  itself;  but 
the  morning  was  misty  and  dreary,  which,  together  with 
the  aspect  of  desolation  which  the  country  exhibited, 
had  an  unfavourable  effect  on  my  spirits.  I got  down 
and  walked,  entering  into  conversation  with  the  old  man. 
He  seemed  to  have  but  one  theme,  “ the  robbers,”  and 
the  atrocities  they  were  in  the  habit  of  practising  in  the 
very  spots  we  were  passing.  The  tales  he  told  were  truly 
horrible,  and  to  avoid  them  I mounted  again,  and  rode 
on  considerably  in  front. 

In  about  an  hour  and  a half  we  emerged  from  the 
forest,  and  entered  upon  a savage,  wild,  broken  ground, 
covered  with  mato,  or  brushwood.  The  mules  stopped 
to  drink  at  a shallow  pool,  and  on  looking  to  the  right  I 
saw  a ruined  wall.  This,  the  guide  informed  me,  was  the 
remains  of  Yendas  Yelhas,  or  the  Old  Inn,  formerly  the 
haunt  of  the  celebrated  robber  Sabocha.  This  Sabocha, 
it  seems,  had,  some  sixteen  years  ago,  a band  of  about 
forty  ruffians  at  his  command,  who  infested  these  wilds, 
and  supported  themselves  by  plunder.  For  a considerable 
time  Sabocha  pursued  his  atrocious  trade  unsuspected, 
and  many  an  unfortunate  traveller  was  murdered  in  the 
dead  of  night  at  the  solitary  inn  by  the  wood-side,  which 
he  kept;  indeed,  a more  fit  situation  for  plunder  and  murder 
I never  saw.  The  gang  were  in  the  habit  of  watering 
their  horses  at  the  pool,  and  perhaps  of  washing  therein 
their  hands  stained  with  the  blood  of  their  victims;  the 
lieutenant  of  the  troop  was  the  brother  of  Sabocha,  a 
fellow  of  great  strength  and  ferocity,  particularly  famous 
for  the  skill  he  possessed  in  darting  a long  knife,  with 
which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  transfixing  his  opponents. 
Sabocha’s  connexion  with  the  gang  at  length  became 
known,  and  he  fled,  with  the  greater  part  of  his  associates, 
across  the  Tagus  to  the  northern  provinces.  Himself 
and  his  brothers  eventually  lost  their  lives  on  the  road 
to  Coimbra,  in  an  engagement  with  the  military.  His 
house  was  razed  by  order  of  the  government. 

The  ruins  are  still  frequently  visited  by  banditti,  who 
eat  and  drink  amidst  them,  and  look  out  for  prey,  as 
the  place  commands  a view  of  the  road.  The  old  man 
assured  me,  that  about  two  months  previous,  on  returning 
to  Aldea  Gallega  with  his  mules  from  accompanying  some 
travellers,  he  had  been  knocked  down,  stripped  naked, 
and  all  his  money  taken  from  him,  by  a fellow  whom  he 
33— » 


34 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

believed  came  from  this  murderers’  nest.  He  said  that  he 
was  an  exceedingly  powerful  young  man,  with  immense 
moustaches  and  whiskers,  and  was  armed  with  an  espin- 
garda,  or  musket.  About  ten  days  subsequently  he  saw 
the  robber  at  Vendas  Novas,  where  we  should  pass  the 
night.  The  fellow  on  recognising  him  took  him  aside, 
and,  with  horrid  imprecations,  threatened  that  he  should 
never  be  permitted  to  return  home  if  he  attempted  to 
discover  him ; he  therefore  held  his  peace,  as  there  was 
little  to  be  gained  and  everything  to  be  risked  in  appre- 
hending him,  as  he  would  have  been  speedily  set  at  liberty 
for  want  of  evidence  to  criminate  him,  and  then  he  would 
not  have  failed  to  have  had  his  revenge,  or  would  have  been 
anticipated  therein  by  his  comrades. 

I dismounted  and  went  up  to  the  place,  and  saw  the 
vestiges  of  a fire  and  a broken  bottle.  The  sons  of  plunder 
had  been  there  very  lately.  I left  a New  Testament  and 
some  tracts  amongst  the  ruins,  and  hastened  away. 

The  sun  had  dispelled  the  mists  and  was  beaming 
very  hot;  we  rode  on  for  about  an  hour,  when  I heard 
the  neighing  of  a horse  in  our  rear,  and  our  guide  said 
there  was  a party  of  horsemen  behind;  our  mules  were 
good,  and  they  did  not  overtake  us  for  at  least  twenty 
minutes.  The  headmost  rider  was  a gentleman  in  a 
fashionable  travelling  dress;  a little  way  behind  were 
an  officer,  two  soldiers,  and  a boy  in  livery.  I heard 
the  principal  horseman,  on  overtaking  my  servant,  in- 
quiring who  I was,  and  whether  French  or  English.  He 
was  told  I was  an  English  gentleman,  travelling.  He 
then  asked  whether  I understood  Portuguese;  the  man 
said  I understood  it,  but  he  believed  that  I spoke  French 
and  Italian  better.  The  gentleman  then  spurred  on  his 
horse  and  accosted  me,  not  in  Portuguese,  nor  in  French 
or  Italian,  but  in  the  purest  English  that  I ever  heard 
spoken  by  a foreigner;  it  had,  indeed,  nothing  of  foreign 
accent  or  pronunciation  in  it;  and  had  I not  known,  by 
the  countenance  of  the  speaker,  that  he  was  no  English- 
man, (for  there  is  a peculiarity  in  the  countenance,  as 
everybody  knows,  which,  though  it  cannot  be  described, 
is  sure  to  betray  the  Englishman),  I should  have  concluded 
that  I was  in  company  with  a countryman.  We  continued 
discoursing  until  we  arrived  at  Pegoens. 

Pegoens  consists  of  about  two  or  three  houses  and  an 
inn;  there  is  likewise  a species  of  barrack,  where  half 
a dozen  soldiers  are  stationed.  In  the  whole  of  Portugal 
there  is  no  place  of  worse  reputation,  and  the  inn  is  nick- 
named Estalagem  de  Ladroes,  or  the  hostelry  of  thieves; 
for  it  is  there  that  the  banditti  of  the  wilderness,  which 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


35 


extends  around  it  on  every  side  for  leagues,  are  in  the  habit 
of  coming  and  spending  the  money,  the  fruits  of  their 
criminal  daring;  there  they  dance  and  sing,  eat  fricasseed 
rabbits  and  olives,  and  drink  the  muddy  but  strong  wine 
of  the  Alemtejo.  An  enormous  fire,  fed  by  the  trunk  of  a 
cork  tree,  was  blazing  in  a niche  on  the  left  hand  on  entering 
the  spacious  kitchen.  Close  by  it,  seething,  were  several 
large  jars,  which  emitted  no  disagreeable  odour,  and 
reminded  me  that  I had  not  broken  my  fast,  although  it 
was  now  nearly  one  o'clock,  and  I had  ridden  five  leagues. 
Several  wild-looking  men,  who  if  they  were  not  banditti 
might  easily  be  mistaken  for  such,  were  seated  on  logs  about 
the  fire.  I asked  them  some  unimportant  questions,  to 
which  they  replied  with  readiness  and  civility,  and  one 
of  them,  who  said  he  could  read,  accepted  a tract  which 
I offered  him. 

My  new  friend,  who  had  been  bespeaking  dinner,  or 
rather  breakfast,  now,  with  great  civility,  invited  me  to 
partake  of  it,  and  at  the  same  time  introduced  me  to  the 
officer  who  accompanied  him,  and  who  was  his  brother, 
and  also  spoke  English,  though  not  so  well  as  himself. 
I found  I had  become  acquainted  with  Don  Geronimo  Joze 
D'Azveto,  secretary  to  the  government  at  Evora;  his  brother 
belonged  to  a regiment  of  hussars,  whose  headquarters 
were  at  Evora,  but  which  had  outlying  parties  along  the 
road, — for  example,  the  place  where  we  were  stopping. 

Rabbits  at  Pegoens  seem  to  be  a standard  article  of 
food,  being  produced  in  abundance  on  the  moors  around. 
We  had  one  fried,  the  gravy  of  which  was  delicious,  and 
afterwards  a roasted  one,  which  was  brought  up  on  a dish 
entire;  the  hostess,  having  first  washed  her  hands,  pro- 
ceeded to  tear  the  animal  to  pieces,  which  having  accom- 
plished, she  poured  over  the  fragments  a sweet  sauce. 
I ate  heartily  of  both  dishes,  particularly  of  the  last; 
owing,  perhaps,  to  the  novel  and  curious  manner  in  which 
it  was  served  up.  Excellent  figs,  from  the  Algarves,  and 
apples  concluded  our  repast,  which  we  ate  in  a little  side 
room  with  a mud  floor,  which  sent  such  a piercing  chill 
into  my  system,  as  prevented  me  from  deriving  that 
pleasure  from  my  fare  and  my  agreeable  companions 
that  I should  have  otherwise  experienced. 

Don  Geronimo  had  been  educated  in  England,  in 
which  country  he  passed  his  boyhood,  which  in  a certain 
degree  accounted  for  his  proficiency  in  the  English  language, 
the  idiom  and  pronunciation  of  which  can  only  be  acquired 
by  residing  in  the  country  at  that  period  of  one's  life. 
He  had  also  fled  thither  shortly  after  the  usurpation  of 
the  throne  of  Portugal  by  Don  Miguel,  and  from  thence  had 


36 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


departed  to  the  Brazils,  where  he  had  devoted  himself 
to  the  service  of  Don  Pedro,  and  had  followed  him  in  the 
expedition  which  terminated  in  the  downfall  of  the 
usurper  and  the  establishment  of  the  constitutional  govern- 
ment in  Portugal.  Our  conversation  rolled  chiefly  on 
literary  and  political  subjects,  and  my  acquaintance  with 
the  writings  of  the  most  celebrated  authors  of  Portugal 
was  hailed  with  surprise  and  delight;  for  nothing  is  more 
gratifying  to  a Portuguese  than  to  observe  a foreigner 
taking  an  interest  in  the  literature  of  his  nation,  of  which, 
in  many  respects,  he  is  justly  proud. 

At  about  two  o’clock  we  were  once  more  in  the  saddle, 
and  pursued  our  way  in  company  through  a country 
exactly  resembling  that  which  we  had  previously  been 
traversing,  rugged  and  broken,  with  here  and  there  a 
clump  of  pines.  The  afternoon  was  exceedingly  fine, 
and  the  bright  rays  of  the  sun  relieved  the  desolation  of 
the  scene.  Having  advanced  about  two  leagues,  we 
caught  sight  of  a large  edifice  towering  majestically  in 
the  distance,  which  I learnt  was  a royal  palace  standing 
at  the  farther  extremity  of  Vendas  Novas,  the  village  in 
which  we  were  to  pass  the  night;  it  was  considerably  more 
than  a league  from  us,  yet,  seen  through  the  clear  transparent 
atmosphere  of  Portugal  it  appeared  much  nearer. 

Before  reaching  it  we  passed  by  a stone  cross,  on  the 
pedestal  of  which  was  an  inscription  commemorating 
a horrible  murder  of  a native  of  Lisbon,  which  had  occurred 
on  that  spot;  it  looked  ancient,  and  was  covered  with 
moss,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  inscription  was  illegible, 
at  least  it  was  to  me,  who  could  not  bestow  much  time 
on  its  deciphering.  Having  arrived  at  Yendas  Novas, 
and  bespoken  supper,  my  new  friend  and  myself  strolled 
forth  to  view  the  palace;  it  was  built  by  the  late  king  of 
Portugal,  and  presents  little  that  is  remarkable  in  its 
exterior;  it  is  a long  edifice  with  wings,  and  is  only  two 
stories  high,  though  it  can  be  seen  afar  off,  from  being 
situated  on  elevated  ground;  it  has  fifteen  windows  in 
the  upper,  and  twelve  in  the  lower  story,  with  a paltry- 
looking  door,  something  like  that  of  a barn,  to  which  you 
ascend  by  one  single  step;  the  interior  corresponds  with 
the  exterior,  offering  nothing  which  can  gratify  curiosity, 
if  we  except  the  kitchens,  which  are  indeed  magnificent, 
and  so  large  that  food  enough  might  be  cooked  in  them, 
at  one  time,  to  serve  as  a repast  for  all  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Alemtejo. 

I passed  the  night  with  great  comfort  in  a clean  bed, 
remote  from  all  those  noises  so  rife  in  a Portuguese  inn, 
and  the  next  morning  at  six  we  again  set  out  on  our 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


37 


journey,  which  we  hoped  to  terminate  before  sunset,  as 
Evora  is  but  ten  leagues  from  Yendas  Novas.  The  pre- 
ceding morning  had  been  cold,  but  the  present  one  was 
far  colder,  so  much  so,  that  just  before  sunrise  I could  no 
longer  support  it  on  horseback,  and  therefore  dismounting, 
ran  and  walked  until  we  reached  a few  houses  at  the 
termination  of  these  desolate  moors.  It  was  in  one  of  these 
houses  that  the  commissioners  of  Don  Pedro  and  Miguel 
met,  and  it  was  there  agreed  that  the  latter  should  resign 
the  crown  in  favour  of  Donna  Maria,  for  Evora  was  the 
last  stronghold  of  the  usurper,  and  the  moors  of  the  Alem- 
tejo  the  last  area  of  the  combats  which  so  long  agitated 
unhappy  Portugal.  I therefore  gazed  on  the  miserable 
huts  with  considerable  interest,  and  did  not  fail  to  scatter 
in  the  neighbourhood  several  of  the  precious  little  tracts 
with  which,  together  with  a small  quantity  of  Testaments, 
my  carpet  bag  was  provided. 

The  country  began  to  improve;  the  savage  heaths 
were  left  behind,  and  we  saw  hills  and  dales,  cork  trees, 
and  azinheiras,  on  the  last  of  which  trees  grows  that  kind 
of  sweet  acorn  called  bolotas,  which  is  pleasant  as  a chestnut, 
and  which  supplies  in  winter  the  principal  food  on  which 
the  numerous  swine  of  the  Alemtejo  subsist.  Gallant 
swine  they  are,  with  short  legs  and  portly  bodies  of  a black 
or  dark  red  colour;  and  for  the  excellence  of  their  flesh 
I can  vouch,  having  frequently  luxuriated  upon  it  in  the 
course  of  my  wanderings  in  this  province;  the  lombo, 
or  loin,  when  broiled  on  the  live  embers,  is  delicious, 
especially  when  eaten  with  olives. 

We  were  now  in  sight  of  Monte  Moro,  which,  as  the 
name  denotes,  was  once  a fortress  of  the  Moors;  it  is  a 
high  steep  hill,  on  the  summit  and  sides  of  which  are  ruined 
walls  and  towers;  at  its  western  side  is  a deep  ravine  or 
valley,  through  which  a small  stream  rushes,  traversed 
by  a stone  bridge;  farther  down  there  is  a ford,  over 
which  we  passed  and  ascended  to  the  town,  which,  com- 
mencing near  the  northern  base,  passes  over  the  lower 
ridge  towards  the  north-east.  The  town  is  exceedingly 
picturesque,  and  many  of  the  houses  are  very  ancient, 
and  built  in  the  Moorish  fashion.  I wished  much  to 
examine  the  relics  of  Moorish  sway  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  mountain,  but  time  pressed,  and  the  short  period  of 
our  stay  at  this  place  did  not  permit  me  to  gratify  my 
inclination. 

Monte  Moro  is  the  head  of  a range  of  hills  which  cross 
this  part  of  the  Alemtejo,  and  from  hence  they  fork  east 
and  south-east,  towards  the  former  of  which  directions 
lies  the  direct  road  to  Elvas,  Badajos,  and  Madrid;  and 


38 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


towards  the  latter  that  to  Evora.  A beautiful  mountain, 
covered  to  the  top  with  cork  trees,  is  the  third  of  the 
chain  which  skirts  the  way  in  the  direction  of  Elvas.  It 
is  called  Monte  Alrno;  a brook  brawls  at  its  base,  and 
as  I passed  it  the  sun  was  shining  gloriously  on  the  green 
herbage  on  which  flocks  of  goats  were  feeding,  with  their 
bells  ringing  merrily,  so  that  the  tout  ensemble  resembled 
a fairy  scene;  and  that  nothing  might  be  wanted  to 
complete  the  picture,  I here  met  a man,  a goatherd,  beneath 
an  azinheira,  whose  appearance  recalled  to  my  mind  the 
Brute  Carle,  mentioned  in  the  Danish  ballad  of  Swayne 
Vonved: — 

“A  wild  swine  on  his  shoulders  he  kept, 

And  upon  his  bosom  a black  bear  slept ; 

And  about  his  fingers  with  hair  o’erhung, 

The  squirrel  sported  and  weasel  clung.” 

Upon  the  shoulder  of  the  goatherd  was  a beast,  which 
he  told  me  was  a lontra,  or  otter,  which  he  had  lately 
caught  in  the  neighbouring  brook;  it  had  a string  round 
its  neck  which  was  attached  to  his  arm.  At  his  left  side 
was  a bag,  from  the  top  of  which  peered  the  heads  of 
two  or  three  singular-looking  animals,  and  at  his  right  was 
squatted  the  sullen  cub  of  a wolf,  which  he  was  endeavouring 
to  tame;  his  whole  appearance  was  to  the  last  degree 
savage  and  wild.  After  a little  conversation  such  as  those 
who  meet  on  the  road  frequently  hold,  I asked  him  if  he 
could  read,  but  he  made  me  no  answer.  I then  inquired 
if  he  knew  anything  of  God  or  Jesus  Christ;  he  looked  me 
fixedly  in  the  face  for  a moment,  and  then  turned  his 
countenance  towards  the  sun,  which  was  beginning  to 
sink  in  the  west,  nodded  to  it,  and  then  again  looked  fixedly 
upon  me.  I believe  that  I understood  the  mute  reply, 
which  probably  was,  that  it  was  God  who  made  that 
glorious  light  which  illumes  and  gladdens  all  creation; 
and  gratified  with  that  belief,  I left  him  and  hastened 
after  my  companions,  who  were  by  this  time  a considerable 
way  in  advance. 

I have  always  found  in  the  disposition  of  the  children 
of  the  fields  a more  determined  tendency  to  religion  and 
piety  than  amongst  the  inhabitants  of  towns  and  cities, 
and  the  reason  is  obvious,  they  are  less  acquainted  with 
the  works  of  man’s  hands  than  with  those  of  God;  their 
occupations,  too,  which  are  simple,  and  requiring  less  of 
ingenuity  and  skill  than  those  which  engage  the  attention 
of  the  other  portion  of  their  fellow-creatures,  are  less 
favourable  to  the  engendering  of  self-conceit  and  sufficiency 
so  utterly  at  variance  with  that  lowliness  of  spirit  which 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


39 


constitutes  the  best  foundation  of  piety.  The  sneerers 
and  scoffers  at  religion  do  not  spring  from  amongst  the 
simple  children  of  nature,  but  are  the  excrescences  of 
overwrought  refinement,  and  though  their  baneful  influence 
has  indeed  penetrated  to  the  country  and  corrupted  man 
there,  the  source  and  fountainhead  was  amongst  crowded 
houses,  where  nature  is  scarcely  known.  I am  not  one 
of  those  who  look  for  perfection  amongst  the  rural  popula- 
tion of  any  country;  perfection  is  not  to  be  found  amongst 
the  children  of  the  fall,  wherever  their  abodes  may  happen 
to  be;  but,  until  the  heart  discredits  the  existence  of  a 
God,  there  is  still  hope  for  the  soul  of  the  possessor,  however 
stained  with  crime  he  may  be,  for  even  Simon  the  magician 
was  converted;  but  when  the  heart  is  once  steeled  with 
infidelity,  infidelity  confirmed  by  carnal  wisdom,  an 
exuberance  of  the  grace  of  God  is  required  to  melt  it,  which 
is  seldom  manifested;  for  we  read  in  the  blessed  book 
that  the  Pharisee  and  the  wizard  became  receptacles  of 
grace,  but  where  is  there  mention  made  of  the  conversion 
of  the  sneering  Sadducee,  and  is  the  modern  infidel  aught 
but  a Sadducee  of  later  date? 

It  was  dark  night  before  we  reached  Evora,  and  having 
taken  leave  of  my  friends,  who  kindly  requested  me  to 
consider  their  house  my  home,  I and  my  servant  went 
to  the  Largo  de  San  Francisco,  in  which  the  muleteer 
informed  me  was  the  best  hostelry  of  the  town.  We  rode 
into  the  kitchen,  at  the  extreme  end  of  which  was  the 
stable,  as  is  customary  in  Portugal.  The  house  was  kept 
by  an  aged  gypsy-like  female  and  her  daughter,  a fine 
blooming  girl  about  eighteen  years  of  age.  The  house 
was  large;  in  the  upper  storey  was  a very  long  room,  like 
a granary,  which  extended  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the 
house;  the  farther  part  was  partitioned  off  and  formed  a 
chamber  tolerably  comfortable  but  very  cold,  and  the 
floor  was  of  tiles,  as  was  also  that  of  the  large  room  in 
which  the  muleteers  were  accustomed  to  sleep  on  the 
furniture  of  the  mules.  After  supper  I went  to  bed,  and 
having  offered  up  my  devotions  to  Him  who  had  protected 
me  through  a dangerous  journey,  I slept  soundly  till  the 
morning. 


40 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  III 

Shopkeeper  at  Evora — Spanish  Contrabandistas — Lion  and  Unicorn — 
The  Fountain — Trust  in  the  Almighty — Distribution  of  Tracts — 
Library  at  Evora — Manuscript — The  Bible  as  a Guide — The  In- 
famous Mary — The  Man  of  Palmella — The  Charm — The  Monkish 
System — Sunday — Volney — An  Auto-da-fe — Men  from  Spain — Read- 
ing of  a Tract — New  Arrival — The  Herb  Rosemary. 

Evora  is  a small  city,  walled,  but  not  regularly  fortified, 
and  could  not  sustain  a siege  of  a day.  It  has  five  gates; 
before  that  to  the  south-west  is  the  principal  promenade 
of  its  inhabitants:  the  fair  on  St.  John’s  day  is  likewise 
held  there;  the  houses  are  in  general  very  ancient,  and 
many  of  them  unoccupied.  It  contains  about  five  thousand 
inhabitants,  though  twice  that  number  would  be  by  no 
means  disproportionate  to  its  size.  The  two  principal 
edifices  are  the  See,  or  cathedral,  and  the  convent  of  San 
Francisco,  in  the  square  before  the  latter  of  which  was 
situated  the  posada  where  I had  taken  up  my  abode.  A 
large  barrack  for  cavalry  stands  on  the  right-hand  side, 
on  entering  the  south-west  gate.  To  the  south-east,  at 
the  distance  of  six  leagues,  is  to  be  seen  a blue  chain  of 
hills,  the  highest  of  which  is  called  Serra  Dorso;  it  is 
picturesquely  beautiful,  and  contains  within  its  recesses 
wolves  and  wild  boars  in  numbers.  About  a league  and  a 
half  on  the  other  side  of  this  hill  is  Estremos. 

I passed  the  day  succeeding  my  arrival  principally  in 
examining  the  town  and  its  environs,  and,  as  I strolled 
about,  entering  into  conversation  with  various  people  that 
I met;  several  of  these  were  of  the  middle  class,  shopkeepers 
and  professional  men;  they  were  all  Constitutionalists, 
or  pretended  to  be  so,  but  had  very  little  to  say  except 
a few  commonplace  remarks  on  the  way  of  living  of  the 
friars,  their  hypocrisy  and  laziness.  I endeavoured  to 
obtain  some  information  respecting  the  state  of  instruction 
in  the  place,  and  from  their  answers  was  led  to  believe 
that  it  must  be  at  the  lowest  ebb,  for  it  seemed  that  there 
was  neither  book-shop  nor  school.  When  I spoke  of 
religion,  they  exhibited  the  utmost  apathy  for  the  subject, 
and  making  their  bows  left  me  as  soon  as  possible. 

Having  a letter  of  introduction  to  a person  who  kept 
a shop  in  the  market-place,  I went  thither  and  delivered 
it  to  him  as  he  stood  behind  his  counter.  In  the  course 
of  conversation,  I found  that  he  had  been  much  persecuted 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


41 


whilst  the  old  system  was  in  its  vigour,  and  that  he  enter- 
tained a hearty  aversion  for  it.  I told  him  that  the 
ignorance  of  the  people  in  religious  matters  had  served 
to  nurse  that  system,  and  that  the  surest  way  to  prevent 
its  return  was  to  enlighten  their  minds:  I added  that  I 

had  brought  a small  stock  of  Bibles  and  Testaments  to 
Evora,  which  I wished  to  leave  for  sale  in  the  hands  of 
some  respectable  merchant,  and  that  if  he  were  anxious 
to  help  to  lay  the  axe  to  the  root  of  superstition  and  tyranny, 
he  could  not  do  so  more  effectually  than  by  undertaking 
the  charge  of  these  books.  He  declared  his  willingness 
to  do  so,  and  I went  away  determined  to  entrust  to  him 
half  of  my  stock.  I returned  to  the  hostelry,  and  sat  down 
on  a log  of  wood  on  the  hearth  within  the  immense  chimney 
in  the  common  apartment;  two  surly  looking  men  were 
on  their  knees  on  the  stones;  before  them  was  a large 
heap  of  pieces  of  old  iron,  brass,  and  copper;  they  were 
assorting  it,  and  stowing  it  away  in  various  bags.  They 
were  Spanish  contrabandistas  of  the  lowest  class,  and 
earned  a miserable  livelihood  by  smuggling  such  rubbish 
from  Portugal  into  Spain.  Not  a word  proceeded  from 
their  lips,  and  when  I addressed  them  in  their  native 
language,  they  returned  no  other  answer  than  a kind  of 
growl.  They  looked  as  dirty  and  rusty  as  the  iron  in 
which  they  trafficked;  their  four  miserable  donkeys  were 
in  the  stable  in  the  rear. 

The  woman  of  the  house  and  her  daughter  were  ex- 
ceedingly civil  to  me,  and  coming  near  crouched  down, 
asking  various  questions  about  England.  A man  dressed 
somewhat  like  an  English  sailor,  who  sat  on  the  other  side 
of  the  hearth  confronting  me,  said,  “ I hate  the  English, 
for  they  are  not  baptized,  and  have  not  the  law,”  meaning 
the  law  of  God.  I laughed,  and  told  him  that  according 
to  the  law  of  England,  no  one  who  was  unbaptized  could 
be  buried  in  consecrated  ground;  whereupon  he  said, 
“ Then  you  are  stricter  than  we.”  He  then  said,  “ What 
is  meant  by  the  lion  and  the  unicorn  which  I saw  the  other 
day  on  the  coat  of  arms  over  the  door  of  the  English  consul 
at  St.  Ubes?  ” I said  they  were  the  arms  of  England! 
“ Yes,”  he  replied,  “ but  what  do  they  represent?  ” I 
said  I did  not  know.  “ Then,”  said  he,  “ you  do  not  know 
the  secrets  of  your  own  house.”  I said,  “ Suppose  I were 
to  tell  you  that  they  represent  the  Lion  of  Bethlehem,  and 
the  horned  monster  of  the  flaming  pit  in  combat,  as  to  which 
should  obtain  the  mastery  in  England,  what  would  you  say?  ” 
He  replied,  “ I should  say  that  you  gave  a fair  answer.” 
This  man  and  myself  became  great  friends;  he  came 
from  Palmella,  not  far  from  St.  Ubes;  lie  had  several  mules 


42 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  horses  with  him,  and  dealt  in  corn  and  barley.  I 
again  walked  out  and  roamed  in  the  environs  of  the  town. 

About  half  a mile  from  the  southern  wall  is  a stone 
fountain,  where  the  muleteers  and  other  people  who  visit 
the  town  are  accustomed  to  water  their  horses.  I sat 
down  by  it,  and  there  I remained  about  two  hours,  entering 
into  conversation  with  every  one  who  halted  at  the  fountain ; 
and  I will  here  observe,  that  during  the  time  of  my  sojourn 
at  Evora,  I repeated  my  visit  every  day,  and  remained 
there  the  same  time;  and  by  following  this  plan,  I believe 
that  I spoke  to  at  least  two  hundred  of  the  children  of 
Portugal  upon  matters  relating  to  their  eternal  welfare. 
I found  that  very  few  of  those  whom  I addressed  had  re- 
ceived any  species  of  literary  education,  none  of  them  had 
seen  the  Bible,  and  not  more  than  half  a dozen  had  the 
slightest  inkling  of  what  the  holy  book  consisted.  I 
found  that  most  of  them  were  bigoted  Papists  and  Miguelites 
at  heart.*  I therefore,  when  they  told  me  they  were 
Christians,  denied  the  possibility  of  their  being  so,  as  they 
were  ignorant  of  Christ  and  His  commandments,  and 
placed  their  hope  of  salvation  on  outward  forms  and  super- 
stitious observances,  which  were  the  invention  of  Satan, 
who  wished  to  keep  them  in  darkness  that  at  last  they 
might  stumble  into  the  pit  which  he  had  dug  for  them. 
I said  repeatedly  that  the  Pope,  whom  they  revered,  was 
an  arch  deceiver,  and  the  head  minister  of  Satan  here  on 
earth,  and  that  the  monks  and  friars,  whose  absence  they 
so  deplored,  and  to  whom  they  had  been  accustomed 
to  confess  themselves,  were  his  subordinate  agents.  When 
called  upon  for  proofs,  I invariably  cited  the  ignorance  of 
my  auditors  respecting  the  Scriptures,  and  said  that  if 
their  spiritual  guides  had  been  really  ministers  of  Christ, 
they  would  not  have  permitted  their  flocks  to  remain  un- 
acquainted with  His  Word. 

Since  this  occurred,  I have  been  frequently  surprised 
that  I experienced  no  insult  and  ill-treatment  from  the 
people,  whose  superstitions  I was  thus  attacking;  but  I 
really  experienced  none,  and  am  inclined  to  believe  that 
the  utter  fearlessness  which  I displayed,  trusting  in  the 
protection  of  the  Almighty,  may  have  been  the  cause. 
When  threatened  by  danger,  the  best  policy  is  to  fix  your 
eye  steadily  upon  it,  and  it  will  in  general  vanish  like 
the  morning  mist  before  the  sun;  whereas,  if  you  quail 
before  it,  it  is  sure  to  become  more  imminent.  I have 
fervent  hope  that  the  words  of  my  mouth  sank  deep  into 
the  hearts  of  some  of  my  auditors,  as  I observed  many  of 
them  depart  musing  and  pensive.  I occasionally  distributed 
tracts  amongst  them;  for  although  they  themselves  were 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


43 


unable  to  turn  them  to  much  account,  I thought  that 
by  their  means  they  might  become  of  service  at  some 
future  time,  and  fall  into  the  hands  of  others,  to  whom 
they  might  be  of  eternal  interest.  Many  a book  which 
is  abandoned  to  the  waters  is  wafted  to  some  remote  shore, 
and  there  proves  a blessing  and  a comfort  to  millions, 
who  are  ignorant  from  whence  it  came. 

The  next  day,  which  was  Friday,  I called  at  the  house 
of  my  friend  Don  Geronimo  Azveto.  I did  not  find  him 
there,  but  was  directed  to  the  see,  or  episcopal  palace, 
in  an  apartment  of  which  I found  him,  writing,  with  another 
gentleman,  to  whom  he  introduced  me;  it  was  the  governor 
of  Evora,  who  welcomed  me  with  every  mark  of  kindness 
and  affability.  After  some  discourse,  we  went  out  together 
to  examine  an  ancient  edifice,  which  was  reported  to  have 
served,  in  bygone  times,  as  a temple  to  Diana.  Part  of  it 
was  evidently  of  Roman  architecture,  for  there  was  no 
mistaking  the  beautiful  light  pillars  which  supported  a 
dome,  under  which  the  sacrifices  to  the  most  captivating 
and  poetical  divinity  of  the  heathen  theocracy  had  probably 
been  made;  but  the  original  space  between  the  pillars  had 
been  filled  up  with  rubbish  of  a modern  date,  and  the  rest 
of  the  building  was  apparently  of  the  architecture  of  the 
latter  end  of  the  Middle  Ages.  It  was  situated  at  one 
end  of  the  building  which  had  once  been  the  seat  of  the 
Inquisition,  and  had  served,  before  the  erection  of  the 
present  see,  as  the  residence  of  the  bishop. 

Within  the  see,  where  the  governor  now  resides,  is  a 
superb  library,  occupying  an  immense  vaulted  room,  like  the 
aisle  of  a cathedral,  and  in  a side  apartment  is  a collection 
of  paintings  by  Portuguese  artists,  chiefly  portraits,  amongst 
which  is  that  of  Don  Sebastian.  I sincerely  hope  it  did  not 
do  him  justice,  for  it  represents  him  in  the  shape  of  an 
awkward  lad  of  about  eighteen,  with  a bloated  booby  face 
with  staring  eyes,  and  a ruff  round  a short  apoplectic  neck. 

I was  shown  several  beautifully  illuminated  missals  and 
other  manuscripts;  but  the  one  which  most  arrested  my 
attention,  I scarcely  need  say  why,  was  that  which  bore 
the  following  title: — 

“fforma  eivc  orDfnatfo  Capellf  Wustrtesimf  et  danfasfmf 
pdncipte  Ibendcf  Sejtf  TRegie  Bnglfe  et  ffrancfe  am  Dm 
Ibtberme  bescdpta  eevenissio  princlpf  Blfonso  IRegt 
iportugalie  fllustd  per  bumilem  semtorem  em  TKIlUlm.  Saw 
Decanu  capelle  supraDicte*” 

It  seemed  a voice  from  the  olden  times  of  my  dear 
native  land  I This  library  and  picture  gallery  had  been 


44 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


formed  by  one  of  the  latter  bishops,  a person  of  much 
learning  and  piety. 

In  the  evening  I dined  with  Don  Geronimo  and  his 
brother;  the  latter  soon  left  us  to  attend  to  his  military 
duties.  My  friend  and  myself  had  now  much  conversation 
of  considerable  interest;  he  lamented  the  deplorable 
state  of  ignorance  in  which  his  countrymen  existed  at 
present.  He  said  that  his  friend  the  governor  and  him- 
self were  endeavouring  to  establish  a school  in  the  vicinity, 
and  that  they  had  made  application  to  the  government 
for  the  use  of  an  empty  convent,  called  the  Espinheiro, 
or  thorn  tree,  at  about  a league’s  distance,  and  that  they 
had  little  doubt  of  their  request  being  complied  with.  I 
had  before  told  him  who  I was,  and  after  expressing  joy 
at  the  plan  which  he  had  in  contemplation,  I now  urged 
him  in  the  most  pressing  manner  to  use  all  his  influence  to 
make  the  knowledge  of  the  Scripture  the  basis  of  the 
education  which  the  children  were  to  receive,  and  added, 
that  half  the  Bibles  and  Testaments  which  I had  brought 
with  me  to  Evora  were  heartily  at  his  service;  he  instantly 
gave  me  his  hand,  said  he  accepted  my  offer  with  the 
greatest  pleasure,  and  would  do  all  in  his  power  to  forward 
my  views,  which  were  in  many  respects  his  own.  I now 
told  him  that  I did  not  come  to  Portugal  with  the  view 
of  propagating  the  dogmas  of  any  particular  sect,  but  with 
the  hope  of  introducing  the  Bible,  which  is  the  well-head 
of  all  that  is  useful  and  conducive  to  the  happiness  of 
society, — that  I cared  not  what  people  called  themselves, 
provided  they  followed  the  Bible  as  a guide ; for  that  where 
the  Scriptures  were  read,  neither  priestcraft  nor  tyranny 
could  long  exist,  and  instanced  the  case  of  my  own  country, 
the  cause  of  whose  freedom  and  prosperity  was  the  Bible, 
and  that  only,  as  the  last  persecutor  of  this  book,  the 
bloody  and  infamous  Mary,  was  the  last  tyrant  who  had 
sat  on  the  throne  of  England.  We  did  not  part  till  the 
night  was  considerably  advanced,  and  the  next  morning 
I sent  him  the  books,  in  the  firm  and  confident  hope  that 
a bright  and  glorious  morning  was  about  to  rise  over  the 
night  which  had  so  long  cast  its  dreary  shadows  over  the 
legions  of  the  Alemtejo. 

The  day  after  this  interesting  event,  which  was  Saturday, 
I had  more  conversation  with  the  man  from  Palmella. 
I asked  him  if  in  his  journeys  he  had  never  been  attacked 
by  robbers;  he  answered  no,  for  that  he  generally  travelled 
in  company  with  others.  “ However,”  said  he,  “ were  I 
alone  I should  have  little  fear,  for  I am  well  protected.” 
I said  that  I supposed  he  carried  arms  with  him.  “ No 
other  arms  than  this,”  said  he,  pulling  out  one  of  those 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


45 


long  desperate  looking  knives,  of  English  manufacture, 
with  which  every  Portuguese  peasant  is  usually  furnished. 
This  knife  serves  for  many  purposes,  and  I should  consider 
it  a far  more  efficient  weapon  than  a dagger.  “ But,” 
said  he,  “ I do  not  place  much  confidence  in  the  knife.” 
I then  inquired  in  what  rested  his  hope  of  protection. 
“ In  this,”  said  he:  and  unbuttoning  his  waistcoat,  he 

showed  me  a small  bag,  attached  to  his  neck  by  a silken 
string.  “ In  this  bag  is  an  oracam,  or  prayer,  written  by 
a person  of  power,  and  as  long  as  I carry  it  about  with  me, 
no  ill  can  befall  me.”  Curiosity  is  the  leading  feature  of 
my  character,  and  I instantly  said,  with  eagerness,  that 
I should  feel  great  pleasure  in  being  permitted  to  read 
the  prayer.  “ Well,”  he  replied,  “ you  are  my  friend,  and 
I would  do  for  you  what  I would  for  few  others,  I will  show 
it  you.”  He  then  asked  for  my  penknife,  and  having 
unripped  the  bag,  took  out  a large  piece  of  paper  closely 
folded  up.  I hurried  to  my  apartment  and  commenced 
the  examination  of  it.  It  was  scrawled  over  in  a very 
illegible  hand,  and  was  moreover  much  stained  with 
perspiration,  so  that  I had  considerable  difficulty  in  making 
myself  master  of  its  contents,  but  I at  last  accomplished 
the  following  literal  translation  of  the  charm,  which  was 
written  in  bad  Portuguese,  but  which  struck  me  at  the  time 
as  being  one  of  the  most  remarkable  compositions  that  had 
ever  come  to  my  knowledge. 

THE  CHARM 

“ Just  Judge  and  divine  Son  of  the  Virgin  Maria,  who 
wast  born  in  Bethlehem,  a Nazarene,  and  wast  crucified 
in  the  midst  of  all  Jewry,  I beseech  thee,  O Lord,  by  thy 
sixth  day,  that  the  body  of  me  be  not  caught,  nor  put  to 
death  by  the  hands  of  justice  at  all;  peace  be  with  you, 
the  peace  of  Christ,  may  I receive  peace,  may  you  receive 
peace,  said  God  to  his  disciples.  If  the  accursed  justice 
should  distrust  me,  or  have  its  eyes  on  me,  in  order  to  take 
me  or  to  rob  me,  may  its  eyes  not  see  me,  may  its  mouth 
not  speak  to  me,  may  it  have  ears  which  may  not  hear 
me,  may  it  have  hands  which  may  not  seize  me,  may  it 
have  feet  which  may  not  overtake  me;  for  may  I be  armed 
with  the  arms  of  St.  George,  covered  with  the  cloak  of 
Abraham,  and  shipped  in  the  ark  of  Noah,  so  that  it  can 
neither  see  me,  nor  hear  me,  nor  draw  the  blood  from  my 
body.  I also  adjure  thee,  O Lord,  by  those  three  blessed 
crosses,  by  those  three  blessed  chalices,  by  those  three 
blessed  clergymen,  by  those  three  consecrated  hosts,  that 
thou  give  me  that  sweet  company  which  thou  gavest  to 


46 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  Virgin  Maria,  from  the  gates  of  Bethlehem  to  the  portals 
of  Jerusalem,  that  I may  go  and  come  with  pleasure  and 
joy  with  Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  the  Virgin  Maria,  the 
prolific  yet  nevertheless  the  eternal  virgin.” 

The  woman  of  the  house  and  her  daughter  had  similar 
bags  attached  to  their  necks,  containing  charms,  which, 
they  said,  prevented  the  witches  having  power  to  harm 
them.  The  belief  in  witchcraft  is  very  prevalent  amongst 
the  peasantry  of  the  Alemtejo,  and  I believe  of  other 
provinces  of  Portugal.  This  is  one  of  the  relics  of  the 
monkish  system,  the  aim  of  which,  in  all  countries  where 
it  has  existed,  seems  to  have  been  to  besot  the  minds  of  the 
people,  that  they  might  be  more  easily  misled.  All  these 
charms  were  fabrications  of  the  monks,  who  had  sold  them 
to  their  infatuated  confessants.  The  monks  of  the  Greek 
and  Syrian  churches  likewise  deal  in  this  ware,  which  they 
know  to  be  poison,  but  which  they  would  rather  vend  than 
the  wholesome  balm  of  the  gospel,  because  it  brings  them 
a large  price,  and  fosters  the  delusion  which  enables  them 
to  live  a life  of  luxury. 

The  Sunday  morning  was  fine,  and  the  plain  before 
the  church  of  the  convent  of  San  Francisco  was  crowded 
with  people  hastening  to  or  returning  from  the  mass. 
After  having  performed  my  morning  devotion,  and  break- 
fasted, I went  down  to  the  kitchen;  the  girl  Geronima 
was  seated  by  the  fire.  I inquired  if  she  had  heard  mass? 
She  replied  in  the  negative,  and  that  she  did  not  intend 
to  hear  it.  Upon  my  inquiring  her  motive  for  absenting 
herself,  she  replied,  that  since  the  friars  had  been  expelled 
from  their  churches  and  convents  she  had  ceased  to  attend 
mass,  or  to  confess  herself;  for  that  the  government  priests 
had  no  spiritual  power,  and  consequently  she  never  troubled 
them.  She  said  the  friars  were  holy  men  and  charitable; 
for  that  every  morning  those  of  the  convent  over  the  way 
fed  forty  poor  persons  with  the  relics  of  the  meals  of  the 
preceding  day,  but  that  now  these  people  were  allowed 
to  starve.  I replied,  that  the  friars,  who  lived  on  the 
fat  of  the  land,  could  well  afford  to  bestow  a few  bones 
upon  their  poor,  and  that  their  doing  so  was  merely  a part 
of  their  policy,  by  which  they  hoped  to  secure  to  themselves 
friends  in  time  of  need.  The  girl  then  observed,  that  as 
it  was  Sunday,  I should  perhaps  like  to  see  some  books, 
and  without  waiting  for  a reply  she  produced  them.  They 
consisted  principally  of  popular  stories,  with  lives  and 
miracles  of  saints,  but  amongst  them  was  a translation 
of  Volney’s  Ruins  of  Empires . I expressed  a wish  to  know 
how  she  became  possessed  of  this  book.  She  said  that  a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


47 


young  man,  a great  Constitutionalist,  had  given  it  to  her 
some  months  previous,  and  had  pressed  her  much  to  read 
it,  for  that  it  was  one  of  the  best  books  in  the  world.  I 
replied,  that  the  author  of  it  was  an  emissary  of  Satan, 
and  an  enemy  of  Jesus  Christ  and  the  souls  of  mankind; 
that  it  was  written  with  the  sole  aim  of  bringing  all  religion 
into  contempt,  and  that  it  inculcated  the  doctrine  that 
there  was  no  future  state,  nor  reward  for  the  righteous 
nor  punishment  for  the  wicked.  She  made  no  reply,  but 
going  into  another  room,  returned  with  her  apron  full  of 
dry  sticks  and  brushwood,  all  which  she  piled  upon  the 
fire,  and  produced  a bright  blaze.  She  then  took  the  book 
from  my  hand  and  placed  it  upon  the  flaming  pile;  then 
sitting  down,  took  her  rosary  out  of  her  pocket  and  told  her 
beads  till  the  volume  was  consumed.  This  was  an  auto-da- 
fe  in  the  best  sense  of  the  word. 

On  the  Monday  and  Tuesday  I paid  my  usual  visits 
to  the  fountain,  and  likewise  rode  about  the  neighbourhood 
on  a mule,  for  the  purpose  of  circulating  tracts.  I dropped 
a great  many  in  the  favourite  walks  of  the  people  of  Evora, 
as  I felt  rather  dubious  of  their  accepting  them  had  I proffered 
them  with  my  own  hand,  whereas,  should  they  be  observed 
lying  on  the  ground,  I thought  that  curiosity  might  cause  them 
to  be  picked  up  and  examined.  I likewise,  on  the  Tuesday 
evening,  paid  a farewell  visit  to  my  friend  Azveto,  as  it 
was  my  intention  to  leave  Evora  on  the  Thursday  following 
and  return  to  Lisbon;  in  which  view  I had  engaged  a calash 
of  a man  who  informed  me  that  he  had  served  as  a soldier 
in  the  grande  arm6e  of  Napoleon,  and  been  present  in  the 
Russian  campaign.  He  looked  the  very  image  of  a drunkard. 
His  face  was  covered  with  carbuncles,  and  his  breath 
impregnated  with  the  fumes  of  strong  waters.  He  wished 
much  to  converse  with  me  in  French,  in  the  speaking  of 
which  language  it  seemed  he  prided  himself,  but  I refused, 
and  told  him  to  speak  the  language  of  the  country,  or  I 
would  hold  no  discourse  with  him. 

Wednesday  was  stormy,  with  occasional  rain.  On 
coming  down,  I found  that  my  friend  from  Palmella  had 
departed:  but  several  contrabandistas  had  arrived  from 
Spain.  They  were  mostly  fine  fellows,  and  unlike  the  two 
I had  seen  the  preceding  week,  who  were  of  much  lower 
degree,  were  chatty  and  communicative;  they  spoke  their 
native  language,  and  no  other,  and  seemed  to  hold  the 
Portuguese  in  great  contempt.  The  magnificent  tones  of 
the  Spanish  sounded  to  great  advantage  amidst  the  shrill 
squeaking  dialect  of  Portugal.  I was  soon  in  deep  con- 
versation with  them,  and  was  much  pleased  to  find  that 
all  of  them  could  read.  I presented  the  eldest,  a man  of 


48 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


about  fifty  years  of  age,  with  a tract  in  Spanish.  He 
examined  it  for  some  time  with  great  attention;  he  then 
rose  from  his  seat,  and  going  into  the  middle  of  the  apart- 
ment, began  reading  it  aloud,  slowly  and  emphatically; 
his  companions  gathered  around  him,  and  every  now  and 
then  expressed  their  approbation  of  what  they  heard. 
The  reader  occasionally  called  upon  me  to  explain 
passages  which,  as  they  referred  to  particular  texts 
of  Scripture,  he  did  not  exactly  understand,  for  not 
one  of  the  party  had  ever  seen  either  the  Old  or  New 
Testament. 

He  continued  reading  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  until 
he  had  finished  the  tract;  and,  at  its  conclusion,  the  whole 
party  were  clamorous  for  similar  ones,  with  which  I was 
happy  to  be  able  to  supply  them. 

Most  of  these  men  spoke  of  priestcraft  and  the  monkish 
system  with  the  utmost  abhorrence,  and  said  that  they 
should  prefer  death  to  submitting  again  to  the  yoke  which 
had  formerly  galled  their  necks.  I questioned  them  very 
particularly  respecting  the  opinion  of  their  neighbours 
and  acquaintances  on  this  point,  and  they  assured  me 
that  in  their  part  of  the  Spanish  frontier  all  were  of  the 
same  mind,  and  that  they  cared  as  little  for  the  Pope 
and  his  monks  as  they  did  for  Don  Carlos;  for  the  latter 
was  a dwarf  (chicotito)  and  a tyrant,  and  the  others  were 
plunderers  and  robbers.  I told  them  they  must  beware 
of  confounding  religion  with  priestcraft,  and  that  in  their 
abhorrence  of  the  latter  they  must  not  forget  that  there 
is  a God  and  a Christ  to  whom  they  must  look  for  salvation, 
and  whose  word  it  was  incumbent  upon  them  to  study  on 
every  occasion;  whereupon  they  all  expressed  a devout 
belief  in  Christ  and  the  Virgin. 

These  men,  though  in  many  respects  more  enlightened 
than- the  surrounding  peasantry,  were  in  others  as  much 
in  the  dark;  they  believed  in  witchcraft  and  in  the  efficacy 
of  particular  charms.  The  night  was  very  stormy,  and 
at  about  nine  we  heard  a galloping  towards  the  door,  and 
then  a loud  knocking;  it  was  opened,  and  in  rushed  a wild- 
looking man  mounted  on  a donkey;  he  wore  a ragged  jacket 
of  sheepskin,  called  in  Spanish  zamarra,  with  breeches  of 
the  same  as  far  down  as  his  knees;  his  legs  were  bare. 
Around  his  sombrero,  or  shadowy  hat,  was  tied  a large 
quantity  of  the  herb  which  in  English  is  called  rosemary, 
in  Spanish  romero,  and  in  the  rustic  language  of  Portugal, 
alecrim;  which  last  is  a word  of  Scandinavian  origin 
( ellegren ),  signifying  the  elfin  plant,  and  was  probably 
carried  into  the  south  by  the  Vandals.  The  man  seemed 
frantic  with  terror,  and  said  that  the  witches  had  been 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


49 


pursuing  him  and  hovering  over  his  head  for  the  last  two 
leagues.  He  came  from  the  Spanish  frontier  with  meal 
and  other  articles;  he  said  that  his  wife  was  following  him 
and  would  soon  arrive,  and  in  about  a quarter  of  an  hour 
she  made  her  appearance,  dripping  with  rain,  and  also 
mounted  on  a donkey. 

I asked  my  friends  the  contrabandistas  why  he  wore 
the  rosemary  in  his  hat;  whereupon  they  told  me  that 
it  was  good  against  witches  and  the  mischances  on  the 
road.  I had  no  time  to  argue  against  this  superstition, 
for,  as  the  chaise  was  to  be  ready  at  five  the  next  morning, 
I wished  to  make  the  most  of  the  short  time  which  I could 
devote  to  sleep. 


CHAPTER  IV 

Vexations  Delays — Drunken  Driver — The  Murdered  Mule— -The  Lamen- 
tation— Adventure  on  the  Heath — Fear  of  Darkness — Portuguese 
Fidalgo — The  Escort — Return  to  Lisbon. 

I rose  at  four,  and  after  having  taken  some  refreshment,  I 
descended  and  found  the  strange  man  and  his  wife  sleeping 
in  the  chimney  corner  by  the  fire,  which  was  still  burning; 
they  soon  awoke  and  began  preparing  their  break- 
fast, which  consisted  of  salt  sardinhas,  broiled  upon  the 
embers.  In  the  meantime  the  woman  sang  snatches  of  the 
beautiful  hymn,  very  common  in  Spain,  which  commences 
thus: — 

“Once  of  old  upon  a mountain,  shepherds  overcome  with  sleep, 
Near  to  Bethlem’s  holy  tower,  kept  at  dead  of  night  their  sheep  ; 
Round  about  the  trunk  they  nodded  of  a huge  ignited  oak, 
Whence  the  crackling  flame  ascending  bright  and  clear  the 
darkness  broke.” 

On  hearing  that  I was  about  to  depart,  she  said,  “ You 
shall  have  some  of  my  husband’s  rosemary,  which  will  keep 
you  from  danger,  and  prevent  any  misfortune  occurring.” 
I was  foolish  enough  to  permit  her  to  put  some  of  it  in  my 
hat;  and  the  man  having  by  this  time  arrived  with  his 
mules,  I bade  farewell  to  my  friendly  hostesses,  and  entered 
the  chaise  with  my  servant. 

I remarked  at  the  time,  that  the  mules  which  drew' 
us  were  the  finest  I had  ever  seen;  the  largest  could  be 
little  short  of  sixteen  hands  high;  and  the  fellow  told  me 
in  his  bad  French  that  he  loved  them  better  than  his 
wife  and  children.  We  turned  round  the  corner  of  the 


50 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


convent  and  proceeded  down  the  street  which  leads  to 
the  south-western  gate.  The  driver  now  stopped  before 
the  door  of  a large  house,  and  having  alighted,  said  that 
it  was  yet  very  early,  and  that  he  was  afraid  to  venture 
forth,  as  it  was  very  probable  we  should  be  robbed,  and 
himself  murdered,  as  the  robbers  who  resided  in  the  town 
would  be  apprehensive  of  his  discovering  them,  but  that 
the  family  who  lived  in  this  house  were  going  to  Lisbon, 
and  would  depart  in  about  a quarter  of  an  hour,  when  we 
might  avail  ourselves  of  an  escort  of  soldiers  which  they 
would  take  with  them,  and  in  their  company  we  should 
run  no  danger.  I told  him  I had  no  fear,  and  commanded 
him  to  drive  on;  but  he  said  he  would  not,  and  left  us  in 
the  street.  We  waited  an  hour,  when  two  carriages  came 
to  the  door  of  the  house,  but  it  seems  the  family  were  not 
yet  ready,  whereupon  the  coachman  likewise  got  down 
and  went  away.  At  the  expiration  of  about  half  an  hour 
the  family  came  out,  and  when  their  luggage  had  been 
arranged  they  called  for  the  coachman,  but  he  was  nowhere 
to  be  found.  Search  was  made  for  him,  but  ineffectually, 
and  an  hour  more  was  spent  before  another  driver  could 
be  procured;  but  the  escort  had  not  yet  made  its  appear- 
ance, and  it  was  not  before  a servant  had  been  twice 
despatched  to  the  barracks  that  it  arrived.  At  last  every- 
thing was  ready,  and  they  drove  off. 

All  this  time  I had  seen  nothing  of  our  own  coachman, 
and  I fully  expected  that  he  had  abandoned  us  altogether. 
In  a few  minutes  I saw  him  staggering  up  the  street  in  a 
state  of  intoxication,  attempting  to  sing  the  Marseillois 
hymn.  I said  nothing  to  him,  but  sat  observing  him. 
He  stood  for  some  time  staring  at  the  mules  and  talking 
incoherent  nonsense  in  French.  At  last  he  said,  “ I am 
not  so  drunk  but  I can  ride/’  and  proceeded  to  lead  his 
mules  towards  the  gate.  When  out  of  the  town  he  made 
several  ineffectual  attempts  to  mount  the  smallest  mule 
which  bore  the  saddle;  he  at  length  succeeded,  and 
instantly  commenced  spurring  at  a furious  rate  down  the 
road.  We  arrived  at  a place  where  a narrow  rocky  path 
branched  off,  by  taking  which  we  should  avoid  a con- 
siderable circuit  round  the  city  wall,  which  otherwise  it 
would  be  necessary  to  make  before  we  could  reach  the 
road  to  Lisbon,  which  lay  at  the  north-east  ; he  now  said, 
“ I shall  take  this  path,  for  by  so  doing  we  shall  overtake 
the  family  in  a minute  so  into  the  path  we  went;  it 
was  scarcely  wide  enough  to  admit  the  carriage,  and 
exceedingly  steep  and  broken;  we  proceeded;  ascending 
and  descending,  the  wheels  cracked,  and  the  motion  was 
so  violent  that  we  were  in  danger  of  being  cast  out  as 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


51 


from  a sling.  I saw  that  if  we  remained  in  the  carriage 
it  must  be  broken  in  pieces,  as  our  weight  must  insure 
its  destruction.  I called  i to  him  in  Portuguese  to  stop, 
but  he  flogged  and  spurred  the  beasts  the  more.  My 
man  now  entreated  me  for  God's  sake  to  speak  to  him 
in  French,  for,  if  anything  would  pacify  him,  that  would. 
I did  so,  and  entreated  him  to  let  us  dismount  and  walk, 
till  we  had  cleared  this  dangerous  way.  The  result  justi- 
fied Antonio's  anticipation.  He  instantly  stopped  and 
said,  “ Sir,  you  are  master,  you  have  only  to  command 
and  I shall  obey."  We  dismounted  and  walked  on  till 
we  reached  the  great  road,  when  we  once  more  seated 
ourselves. 

The  family  were  about  a quarter  of  a mile  in  advance, 
and  we  were  no  sooner  reseated,  than  he  lashed  the  mules 
into  full  gallop  for  the  purpose  of  overtaking  it;  his  cloak 
had  fallen  from  his  shoulder,  and,  in  endeavouring  to 
readjust  it,  he  dropped  the  string  from  his  hand  by  which 
he  guided  the  large  mule,  it  became  entangled  in  the  legs 
of  the  poor  animal,  which  fell  heavily  on  its  neck,  it  struggled 
for  a moment,  and  then  lay  stretched  across  the  way, 
the  shafts  over  its  body.  I was  pitched  forward  into 
the  dirt,  and  the  drunken  driver  fell  upon  the  murdered 
mule. 

I was  in  a great  rage,  and  cried,  “ You  drunken  rene- 
gade, who  are  ashamed  to  speak  the  language  of  your 
own  country,  you  have  broken  the  staff  of  your  existence, 
and  may  now  starve."  “ Paciencia,"  said  he,  and  began 
kicking  the  head  of  the  mule,  in  order  to  make  it  rise;  but 
I pushed  him  down,  and  taking  his  knife,  which  had  fallen 
from  his  pocket,  cut  the  bands  by  which  it  was  attached 
to  the  carriage,  but  life  had  fled,  and  the  film  of  death 
had  begun  to  cover  its  eyes. 

The  fellow,  in  the  recklessness  of  intoxication,  seemed 
at  first  disposed  to  make  light  of  his  loss,  saying,  “ The 
mule  is  dead,  it  was  God's  will  that  she  should  die,  what 
more  can  be  said?  Paciencia."  Meanwhile,  I despatched 
Antonio  to  the  town  for  the  purpose  of  hiring  mules,  and, 
having  taken  my  baggage  from  the  chaise,  waited  on 
the  roadside  until  he  should  arrive. 

The  fumes  of  the  liquor  began  now  to  depart  from  the 
fellow's  brain;  he  clasped  his  hands  and  exclaimed, 
“ Blessed  Virgin,  what  is  to  become  of  me?  How  am  I 
to  support  myself?  Where  am  I to  get  another  mule? 
For  my  mule,  my  best  mule  is  dead,  she  fell  upon  the  road, 
and  died  of  a sudden!  I have  been  in  France,  and  in  other 
countries,  and  have  seen  beasts  of  all  kinds,  but  such  a 
mule  as  that  I have  never  seen;  but  she  is  dead — my 


52 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


mule  is  dead — she  fell  upon  the  road  and  died  of  a sudden!  ” 
He  continued  in  this  strain  for  a considerable  time,  and 
the  burden  of  his  lamentation  was  always,  “ My  mule  is 
dead,  she  fell  upon  the  road,  and  died  of  a sudden.”  At 
length  he  took  the  collar  from  the  creature’s  neck,  and 
put  it  upon  the  other,  which  with  some  difficulty  he  placed 
in  the  shafts. 

A beautiful  boy  of  about  thirteen  now  came  from 
the  direction  of  the  town,  running  along  the  road  with 
the  velocity  of  a hare:  he  stopped  before  the  dead  mule 
and  burst  into  tears:  it  was  the  man’s  son,  who  had  heard 
of  the  accident  from  Antonio.  This  was  too  much  for  the 
poor  fellow:  he  ran  up  to  the  boy,  and  said,  “ Don’t  cry, 
our  bread  is  gone,  but  it  is  God’s  will;  the  mule  is  dead!  ” 
He  then  flung  himself  on  the  ground,  uttering  fearful  cries. 
“ I could  have  borne  my  loss,”  said  he,  “ but  when  I saw 
my  child  cry,  I became  a fool.”  I gave  him  two  or  three 
crowns,  and  added  some  words  of  comfort;  assuring  him 
I had  no  doubt  that,  if  he  abandoned  drink,  the  Almighty 
God  would  take  compassion  on  him  and  repair  his  loss. 
At  length  he  became  more  composed,  and  placing  my 
baggage  in  the  chaise,  we  returned  to  the  town,  where  I 
found  two  excellent  riding  mules  awaiting  my  arrival 
at  the  inn.  I did  not  see  the  Spanish  woman,  or  I should 
have  told  her  of  the  little  efficacy  of  rosemary  in  this 
instance. 

I have  known  several  drunkards  amongst  the  Portu- 
guese, but,  without  one  exception,  they  have  been  indi- 
viduals who,  having  travelled  abroad,  like  this  fellow, 
have  returned  with  a contempt  for  their  own  country, 
and  polluted  with  the  worst  vices  of  the  lands  which  they 
have  visited. 

I would  strongly  advise  any  of  my  countrymen  who 
may  chance  to  read  these  lines,  that,  if  their  fate  lead 
them  into  Spain  or  Portugal,  they  avoid  hiring  as  domestics, 
or  being  connected  with,  individuals  of  the  lower  classes 
who  speak  any  other  language  than  their  own,  as  the 
probability  is  that  they  are  heartless  thieves  and  drunkards. 
These  gentry  are  invariably  saying  all  they  can  in  dispraise 
of  their  native  land;  and  it  is  my  opinion,  grounded  upon 
experience,  that  an  individual  who  is  capable  of  such 
baseness  would  not  hesitate  at  the  perpetration  of  any 
villainy,  for  next  to  the  love  of  God,  the  love  of  country 
is  the  best  preventive  of  crime.  He  who  is  proud  of  his 
country,  will  be  particularly  cautious  not  to  do  anything 
which  is  calculated  to  disgrace  it. 

We  now  journeyed  towards  Lisbon,  and  reached  Monte 
Moro  about  two  o’clock.  After  taking  such  refreshment 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


53 


as  the  place  afforded,  we  pursued  our  way  till  we  were 
within  a quarter  of  a league  of  the  huts  which  stand  on 
the  edge  of  the  savage  wilderness  we  had  before  crossed. 
Here  we  were  overtaken  by  a horseman;  he  was  a powerful, 
middle-sized  man,  and  was  mounted  on  a noble  Spanish 
horse.  He  had  a broad,  slouching  sombrero  on  his  head, 
and  wore  a jerkin  of  blue  cloth,  with  large  bosses  of  silver 
for  buttons,  and  clasps  of  the  same  metal ; he  had  breeches 
of  yellow  leather,  and  immense  jack-boots:  at  his  saddle 
was  slung  a formidable  gun.  He  inquired  if  I intended 
to  pass  the  night  at  Vendas  Novas,  and  on  my  replying 
in  the  affirmative,  he  said  that  he  would  avail  himself  of 
our  company.  He  now  looked  towards  the  sun,  whose  disk 
was  rapidly  sinking  beneath  the  horizon,  and  entreated 
us  to  spur  on  and  make  the  most  of  its  light,  for  that  the 
moor  was  a horrible  place  in  the  dusk.  He  placed  himself 
at  our  head,  and  we  trotted  briskly  on,  the  boy  or  muleteer 
who  attended  us  running  behind  without  exhibiting  the 
slightest  symptom  of  fatigue. 

We  entered  upon  the  moor,  and  had  advanced  about 
a mile  when  dark  night  fell  around  us;  we  were  in  a wild 
path,  with  high  brushwood  on  either  side,  when  the  rider 
said  that  he  could  not  confront  the  darkness,  and  begged 
me  to  ride  on  before,  and  he  would  follow  after:  I could 
hear  him  trembling.  I asked  the  reason  of  his  terror, 
and  he  replied  that  at  one  time  darkness  was  the  same 
thing  to  him  as  day,  but  that  of  late  years  he  dreaded  it, 
especially  in  wild  places.  I complied  with  his  request, 
but  I was  ignorant  of  the  way,  and  as  I could  scarcely  see 
my  hand,  was  continually  going  wrong.  This  made  the 
man  impatient,  and  he  again  placed  himself  at  our  head. 
We  proceeded  so  for  a considerable  way,  when  he  again 
stopped,  and  said  that  the  power  of  the  darkness  was  too 
much  for  him.  His  horse  seemed  to  be  infected  with  the 
same  panic,  for  it  shook  in  every  limb.  I now  told  him 
to  call  on  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus,  who  was  able  to 
turn  the  darkness  into  light,  but  he  gave  a terrible  shout, 
and,  brandishing  his  gun  aloft,  discharged  it  in  the  air. 
His  horse  sprang  forward  at  full  speed,  and  my  mule, 
which  was  one  of  the  swiftest  of  its  kind,  took  fright  and 
followed  at  the  heels  of  the  charger.  Antonio  and  the 
boy  were  left  behind.  On  we  flew  like  a whirlwind,  the 
hoofs  of  the  animals  illuming  the  path  with  the  sparks  of 
fire  they  struck  from  the  stones.  I knew  not  whither  we 
were  going,  but  the  dumb  creatures  were  acquainted  with 
the  way,  and  soon  brought  us  to  Vendas  Novas,  where 
we  were  rejoined  by  our  companions. 

I thought  this  man  was  a coward,  but  I did  him  in- 


54 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


justice,  for  during  the  day  he  was  as  brave  as  a lion,  and 
feared  no  one.  About  five  years  since,  he  had  overcome 
two  robbers  who  had  attacked  him  on  the  moors,  and,  after 
tying  their  hands  behind  them,  had  delivered  them  up  to 
justice;  but  at  night  the  rustling  of  a leaf  filled  him  with 
terror.  I have  known  similar  instances  of  the  kind  in 
persons  of  otherwise  extraordinary  resolution.  For  myself, 
I confess  I am  not  a person  of  extraordinary  resolution, 
but  the  dangers  of  the  night  daunt  me  no  more  than  those 
of  midday.  The  man  in  question  was  a farmer  from 
Evora,  and  a person  of  considerable  wealth. 

I found  the  inn  at  Vendas  Novas  thronged  with  people, 
and  had  some  difficulty  in  obtaining  accommodation 
and  refreshment.  It  was  occupied  by  the  family  of  a 
certain  Fidalgo,  from  Estremoz;  he  was  on  the  way  to 
Lisbon,  conveying  a large  sum  of  money,  as  was  said — 
probably  the  rents  of  his  estates.  He  had  with  him  a 
body  guard  of  four-and-twenty  of  his  dependants,  each 
armed  with  a rifle;  they  consisted  of  his  swineherds, 
shepherds,  cowherds,  and  hunters,  and  were  commanded 
by  two  youths,  his  son  and  nephew,  the  latter  of  whom 
was  in  regimentals;  nevertheless,  notwithstanding  the 
number  of  his  troop,  it  appeared  that  the  Fidalgo  laboured 
under  considerable  apprehension  of  being  despoiled  upon 
the  waste  which  lay  between  Vendas  Novas  and  Pegoens, 
as  he  had  just  requested  a guard  of  four  soldiers  from  the 
officer  who  commanded  a detachment  stationed  here: 
there  were  many  females  in  his  company,  who,  I was  told, 
were  his  illegitimate  daughters — for  he  bore  an  infamous 
moral  character,  and  was  represented  to  me  as  a staunch 
friend  of  Don  Miguel.  It  was  not  long  before  he  came 
up  to  me  and  my  new  acquaintance,  as  we  sat  by  the 
kitchen  fire:  he  was  a tall  man  of  about  sixty,  but  stooped 
much.  His  countenance  was  by  no  means  pleasing:  he 
had  a long  hooked  nose,  small  twinkling  cunning  eyes, 
and,  what  I liked  worst  of  all,  a continual  sneering  smile, 
which  I firmly  believe  to  be  the  index  of  a treacherous  and 
malignant  heart.  He  addressed  me  in  Spanish,  which,  as 
he  resided  not  far  from  the  frontier,  he  spoke  with  fluency, 
but  contrary  to  my  usual  practice,  I was  reserved  and  silent. 

On  the  following  morning  I rose  at  seven,  and  found 
that  the  party  from  Estremoz  had  started  several  hours 
previously.  I breakfasted  with  my  acquaintance  of  the 
preceding  night,  and  we  set  out  to  accomplish  what  re- 
mained of  our  journey.  The  sun  had  now  arisen;  and  all 
his  fears  had  left  him — he  breathed  defiance  against  all 
the  robbers  of  the  Alemtejo.  When  we  had  advanced  about 
a league,  the  boy  who  attended  us  said  he  saw  heads  of 


55 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

men  amongst  the  brushwood.  Our  cavalier  instantly 
seized  his  gun,  and  causing  his  horse  to  make  two  or  three 
lofty  bounds,  held  it  in  one  hand,  the  muzzle  pointed  in 
the  direction  indicated,  but  the  heads  did  not  again  make 
their  appearance,  and  it  was  probably  but  a false  alarm. 

We  resumed  our  way,  and  the  conversation  turned, 
as  might  be  expected,  upon  robbers.  My  companion,  who 
seemed  to  be  acquainted  with  every  inch  of  ground  over 
which  we  passed,  had  a legend  to  tell  of  every  dingle  and 
every  pine-clump.  We  reached  a slight  eminence,  on  the 
top  of  which  grew  three  stately  pines:  about  half  a league 
farther  on  was  another  similar  one:  these  two  eminences 
commanded  a view  of  the  road  from  Pegoens  and  Vendas 
Novas,  so  that  all  people  going  and  coming  could  be  descried, 
whilst  yet  at  a distance.  My  friend  told  me  that  these 
heights  were  favourite  stations  of  robbers.  Some  two  years 
since,  a band  of  six  mounted  banditti  remained  there 
three  days,  and  plundered  whomsoever  approached  from 
either  quarter:  their  horses,  saddled  and  bridled,  stood 
picqueted  at  the  foot  of  the  trees,  and  two  scouts,  one 
for  each  eminence,  continually  sat  in  the  topmost  branches 
and  gave  notice  of  the  approach  of  travellers:  when  at 
a proper  distance  the  robbers  below  sprang  upon  their 
horses,  and  putting  them  to  full  gallop,  made  at  their 
prey,  shouting  Rendete , Picaro  ! Rendete,  Picaro  ! (Sur- 
render, scoundrel,  surrender!)  We,  however,  passed  un- 
molested, and,  about  a quarter  of  a mile  before  we  reached 
Pegoens,  overtook  the  family  of  the  Fidalgo. 

Had  they  been  conveying  the  wealth  of  Ind  through 
the  deserts  of  Arabia,  they  could  not  have  travelled  with 
more  precaution.  The  nephew,  with  drawn  sabre,  rode 
in  front;  pistols  at  his  holsters,  and  the  usual  Spanish 
gun  slung  at  his  saddle.  Behind  him  tramped  six  men 
in  a rank,  with  muskets  shouldered,  and  each  of  them  wore 
at  his  girdle  a hatchet,  which  was  probably  intended  to 
cleave  the  thieves  to  the  brisket  should  they  venture  to 
come  ,to  close  quarters.  There  were  six  vehicles,  two  of 
them  calashes,  in  which  latter  rode  the  Fidalgo  and  his 
daughters;  the  others  were  covered  carts,  and  seemed  to 
be  filled  with  household  furniture ; each  of  these  vehicles 
had  an  armed  rustic  on  either  side;  and  the  son,  a lad 
about  sixteen,  brought  up  the  rear  with  a squad  equal 
to  that  of  his  cousin  in  the  van.  The  soldiers,  who  by 
good  fortune  were  light  horse,  and  admirably  mounted, 
were  galloping  about  in  all  directions,  for  the  purpose  of 
driving  the  enemy  from  cover,  should  they  happen  to  be 
lurking  in  the  neighbourhood. 

I could  not  help  thinking  as  I passed  by,  that  this 


56 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


martial  array  was  very  injudicious,  for  though  it  was 
calculated  to  awe  plunderers,  it  was  likewise  calculated 
to  allure  them,  as  it  seemed  to  hint  that  immense  wealth 
was  passing  through  their  territories.  I do  not  know 
how  the  soldiers  and  rustics  would  have  behaved  in  case 
of  an  attack;  but  am  inclined  to  believe  that  if  three 
such  men  as  Richard  Turpin  had  suddenly  galloped  forth 
from  behind  one  of  the  bush-covered  knolls,  neither  the 
numbers  nor  resistance  opposed  to  them  would  have 
prevented  them  from  bearing  away  the  contents  of  the 
strong  box  jingling  in  their  saddle-bags. 

From  this  moment  nothing  worthy  of  relating  occurred 
till  our  arrival  at  Aldea  Gallega,  where  we  passed  the  night, 
and  next  morning  at  three  o'clock  embarked  in  the  passage- 
boat  for  Lisbon,  where  we  arrived  at  eight — and  thus 
terminates  my  first  wandering  in  the  Alemtejo. 


CHAPTER  V 

The  College — The  Rector — Shibboleth — National  Prejudices — Youthful 
Sports — Jews  of  Lisbon — Bad  Faith — Crime  and  Superstition — 
Strange  Proposal. 

One  afternoon  Antonio  said  to  me,  “ It  has  struck  me, 
Senhor,  that  your  worship  would  like  to  see  the  college 

of  the  English  ."  “ By  all  means,"  I replied,  “ pray 

conduct  me  thither."  So  he  led  me  through  various  streets 
until  we  stopped  before  the  gate  of  a large  building  in  one 
of  the  most  elevated  situations  in  Lisbon;  upon  our  ringing, 
a kind  of  porter  presently  made  his  appearance,  and 
demanded  our  business.  Antonio  explained  it  to  him. 
He  hesitated  for  a moment;  but  presently,  bidding  us 
enter,  conducted  us  to  a large  gloomy-looking  stone  hall, 
where,  begging  us  to  be  seated,  he  left  us.  We  were  soon 
joined  by  a venerable  personage,  seemingly  about  seventy, 
in  a kind  of  flowing  robe  or  surplice,  with  a collegiate  cap 
upon  his  head.  Notwithstanding  his  age  there  was  a ruddy 
tinge  upon  his  features,  which  were  perfectly  English. 
Coming  slowly  up  he  addressed  me  in  the  English  tongue, 
requesting  to  know  how  he  could  serve  me.  I informed 
him  that  I was  an  English  traveller,  and  should  be  happy 
to  be  permitted  to  inspect  the  college,  provided  it  were 
customary  to  show  it  to  strangers.  He  informed  me  that 
there  could  be  no  objection  to  accede  to  my  request,  but 
that  I came  at  rather  an  unfortunate  moment,  it  being  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


57 


hour  of  refection.  I apologised,  and  was  preparing  to  retire, 
but  he  begged  me  to  reinain,  as,  in  a few  minutes,  the 
refection  would  be  over,  when  the  principals  of  the  college 
would  do  themselves  the  pleasure  of  waiting  on  me. 

We  sat  down  on  the  stone  bench,  when  he  commenced 
surveying  me  attentively  for  some  time,  and  then  cast 
his  eyes  on  Antonio.  “ Whom  have  we  here?  ” said  he 
to  the  latter;  “ surely  your  features  are  not  unknown  to 
me.”  “ Probably  not,  your  reverence,”  replied  Antonio, 
getting  up  and  bowing  most  profoundly.  “ I lived  in  the 

family  of  the  Countess , at  Cintra,  when  your  venera- 

bility  was  her  spiritual  guide.”  “ True,  true,”  said  the 
old  gentleman,  sighing,  “ I remember  you  now.  Ah, 
Antonio,  things  are  strangely  changed  since  then.  A 
new  government — a new  system — a new  religion,  I may 
say.”  Then  looking  again  at  me,  he  demanded  whither 
I was  journeying?  “ I am  going  to  Spain,”  said  I,  “ and 
have  stopped  at  Lisbon  by  the  way.”  “ Spain,  Spain!” 
said  the  old  man;  “ surely  you  have  chosen  a strange  time 
to  visit  Spain;  there  is  much  bloodshedding  in  Spain  at 
present,  and  violent  wars  and  tumults.”  “ I consider  the 
cause  of  Don  Carlos  as  already  crushed,”  I replied;  “ he 
has  lost  the  only  general  capable  of  leading  his  armies  to 
Madrid.  Zumalacarregui,  his  Cid,  has  fallen.”  “ Do 
not  flatter  yourself;  I beg  your  pardon,  but  do  not  think, 
young  man,  that  the  Lord  will  permit  the  powers  of 
darkness  to  triumph  so  easily;  the  cause  of  Don  Carlos 
is  not  lost;  its  success  did  not  depend  on  the  life  of  a frail 
worm  like  him  whom  you  have  mentioned.”  We  continued 
in  discourse  some  little  time,  when  he  arose,  saying  that 
by  this  time  he  believed  the  refection  was  concluded. 

He  had  scarcely  left  me  five  minutes  when  three 
individuals  entered  the  stone  hall,  and  advanced  slowly 
towards  me; — the  principals  of  the  college,  said  I to  myself! 
and  so  indeed  they  were.  The  first  of  these  gentlemen, 
and  to  whom  the  other  two  appeared  to  pay  considerable 
deference,  was  a thin  spare  person,  somewhat  above  the 
middle  height;  his  complexion  was  very  pale,  his  features 
emaciated  but  fine,  his  eyes  dark  and  sparkling;  he  might 
be  about  fifty — the  other  two  were  men  in  the  prime  of 
life.  One  was  of  rather  low  stature;  his  features  were 
dark,  and  wore  that  pinched  and  mortified  expression  so 
frequently  to  be  observed  in  the  countenance  of  the  English 

: the  other  was  a bluff,  ruddy,  and  rather  good-looking 

young  man;  all  three  were  dressed  alike  in  the  usual  college 
cap  and  silk  gown.  Coming  up,  the  eldest  of  the  three 
took  me  by  the  hand  and  thus  addressed  me  in  clear  silvery 
tones:— 


58 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


“ Welcome,  Sir,  to  our  poor  house;  we  are  always  happy 
to  see  in  it  a countryman  from  our  beloved  native  land; 
it  will  afford  us  extreme  satisfaction  to  show  you  over  it; 
it  is  true  that  satisfaction  is  considerably  diminished  by 
the  reflection  that  it  possesses  nothing  worthy  of  the  atten- 
tion of  a traveller;  there  is  nothing  curious  pertaining  to 
it  save  perhaps  its  economy,  and  that  as  we  walk  about 
we  will  explain  to  you.  Permit  us,  first  of  all,  to  introduce 
ourselves  to  you;  I am  rector  of  this  poor  English  house 
of  refuge;  this  gentleman  is  our  professor  of  humanity, 
and  this  (pointing  to  the  ruddy  personage)  is  our  professor 
of  polite  learning,  Hebrew,  and  Syriac.” 

Myself. — I humbly  salute  you  all;  excuse  me  if  I 
inquire  who  was  the  venerable  gentleman  who  put  himself 
to  the  inconvenience  of  staying  with  me  whilst  I was 
awaiting  your  leisure. 

Rector. — O!  a most  admirable  personage,  our  almoner, 
our  chaplain;  he  came  into  this  country  before  any  of 
us  were  born,  and  here  he  has  continued  ever  since.  Now 
let  us  ascend  that  we  may  show  you  our  poor  house:  but 
how  is  this,  my  dear  Sir,  how  is  it  that  I see  you  standing 
uncovered  in  our  cold  damp  hall? 

Myself. — I can  easily  explain  that  to  you;  it  is  a custom 
which  has  become  quite  natural  to  me.  I am  just  arrived 
from  Russia,  where  I have  spent  some  years.  A Russian 
invariably  takes  off  his  hat  whenever  he  enters  beneath  a 
roof,  whether  it  pertain  to  hut,  shop,  or  palace.  To  omit 
doing  so  would  be  considered  as  a mark  of  brutality  and 
barbarism,  and  for  the  following  reason:  in  every  apart- 
ment of  a Russian  house  there  is  a small  picture  of  the 
Virgin  stuck  up  in  a corner,  just  below  the  ceiling — the  hat 
is  taken  off  out  of  respect  to  her. 

Quick  glances  of  intelligence  were  exchanged  by  the 
three  gentlemen.  I had  stumbled  upon  their  shibboleth, 
and  proclaimed  myself  an  Ephraimite,  and  not  of  Gilead. 
I have  no  doubt  that  up  to  that  moment  they  had  con- 
sidered me  as  one  of  themselves — a member,  and  perhaps 
a priest,  of  their  own  ancient,  grand,  and  imposing  religion, 
for  such  it  is,  I must  confess — an  error  into  which  it  was 
natural  that  they  should  fall.  What  motives  could  a 
Protestant  have  for  intruding  upon  their  privacy?  What 
interest  could  he  take  in  inspecting  the  economy  of  their 
establishment?  So  far,  however,  from  relaxing  in  their 
attention  after  this  discovery,  their  politeness  visibly 
increased,  though,  perhaps,  a scrutinizing  observer  might 
have  detected  a shade  of  less  cordiality  in  their  manner. 

Rector. — Beneath  the  ceiling  in  every  apartment?  I 
think  I understood  you  so.  How  delightful — how  truly 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


59 


interesting;  a picture  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  beneath  the 
ceiling  in  every  apartment  of  a Russian  house!  Truly, 
this  intelligence  is  as  unexpected  as  it  is  delightful.  I shall 
from  this  moment  entertain  a much  higher  opinion  of  the 
Russians  than  hitherto — most  truly  an  example  worthy 
of  imitation.  I wish  sincerely  that  it  was  our  own  practice 
to  place  an  image  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  beneath  the  ceiling 
in  every  corner  of  our  houses.  What  say  you,  our  professor 
of  humanity?  What  say  you  to  the  information  so  obligingly 
communicated  to  us  by  this  excellent  gentleman? 

Humanity  Professor. — It  is,  indeed,  most  delightful, 
most  cheering,  I may  say;  but  I confess  that  I was  not 
altogether  unprepared  for  it.  The  adoration  of  the  Blessed 
Virgin  is  becoming  every  day  more  extended  in  countries 
where  it  has  hitherto  been  unknown  or  forgotten.  Dr. 

W , when  he  passed  through  Lisbon,  gave  me  some 

most  interesting  details  with  respect  to  the  labours  of  the 
propaganda  in  India.  Even  England,  our  own  beloved 
country  ....... 

My  obliging  friends  showed  me  all  over  their  “ poor 
house,”  it  certainly  did  not  appear  a very  rich  one;  it  was 
spacious,  and  rather  dilapidated.  The  library  was  small, 
and  possessed  nothing  remarkable;  the  view,  however, 
from  the  roof,  over  the  greater  part  of  Lisbon  and  the 
Tagus,  was  very  grand  and  noble;  but  I did  not  visit  this 
place  in  the  hope  of  seeing  busts,  or  books,  or  fine  prospects, 
— I visited  this  strange  old  house  to  converse  with  its 
inmates,  for  my  favourite,  I might  say,  my  only  study,  is 
man.  I found  these  gentlemen  much  what  I had  antici- 
pated, for  this  was  not  the  first  time  that  I had  visited  an 

English  establishment  in  a foreign  land.  They  were 

full  of  amiability  and  courtesy  to  their  heretic  countryman, 
and  though  the  advancement  of  their  religion  was  with 
them  an  object  of  paramount  importance,  I soon  found 
that,  with  ludicrous  inconsistency,  they  cherished,  to  a 
wonderful  degree,  national  prejudices  almost  extinct  in 
the  mother  land,  even  to  the  disparagement  of  those  of 

their  own  darling  faith.  I spoke  of  the  English  , 

of  their  high  respectability,  and  of  the  loyalty  which 
they  had  uniformly  displayed  to  their  sovereign,  though 
of  a different  religion,  and  by  whom  they  had  been  not 
unfrequently  subjected  to  much  oppression  and  injustice. 

Rector . — My  dear  Sir,  I am  rejoiced  to  hear  you;  I see 
that  you  are  well  acquainted  with  the  great  body  of  those 
of  our  faith  in  England.  They  are  as  you  have  well  described 
them,  a most  respectable  and  loyal  body;  from  loyalty, 
indeed,  they  never  swerved,  and  though  they  have  been 


60 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


accused  of  plots  and  conspiracies,  it  is  now  well  known 
that  such  had  no  real  existence,  but  were  merely  calumnies 
invented  by  their  religious  enemies.  During  the  civil 

wars  the  English  cheerfully  shed  their  blood  and 

squandered  their  fortunes  in  the  cause  of  the  unfortunate 
martyr,  notwithstanding  that  he  never  favoured  them, 
and  invariably  looked  upon  them  with  suspicion.  At 

present  the  English  are  the  most  devoted  subjects 

to  our  gracious  sovereign.  I should  be  happy  if  I could 
say  as  much  for  our  Irish  brethren;  but  their  conduct 
has  been — oh!  detestable.  Yet  what  can  you  expect? 

The  true blush  for  them.  A certain  person  is  a disgrace 

to  the  church  of  which  he  pretends  to  be  a servant.  Where 
does  he  find  in  our  canons  sanction  for  his  proceedings, 
his  undutiful  expressions  towards  one  who  is  his  sovereign 
by  divine  right,  and  who  can  do  no  wrong?  And  above 
all,  where  does  he  find  authority  for  inflaming  the  passions 
of  a vile  mob  against  a nation  intended  by  nature  and  by 
position  to  command  them? 

Myself. — I believe  there  is  an  Irish  college  in  this  city? 

Rector. — I believe  there  is;  but  it  does  not  flourish, 
there  are  few  or  no  pupils.  Oh! 

I looked  through  a window,  at  a great  height,  and  saw 
about  twenty  or  thirty  fine  lads  sporting  in  a court  below. 
“ This  is  as  it  should  be,”  said  I;  “ those  boys  will  not  make 
worse  priests  from  a little  early  devotion  to  trap-ball  and 
cudgel  playing.  I dislike  a staid,  serious,  puritanic  educa- 
tion, as  I firmly  believe  that  it  encourages  vice  and  hypo- 
crisy.” 

We  then  went  into  the  Rector’s  room,  where,  above 
a crucifix,  was  hanging  a small  portrait. 

Myself. — That  was  a great  and  portentous  man,  honest 
withal.  I believe  the  body  of  which  he  was  the  founder, 
and  which  has  been  so  much  decried,  has  effected  infinitely 
more  good  than  it  has  caused  harm. 

Rector. — What  do  I hear?  You  an  Englishman,  and 
a Protestant,  and  yet  an  admirer  of  Ignatius  Loyola? 

Myself. — I will  say  nothing  with  respect  to  the  doctrine 
of  the  Jesuits,  for,  as  you  have  observed,  I am  a Protestant: 
but  I am  ready  to  assert  that  there  are  no  people  in  the 
world  better  qualified,  upon  the  whole,  to  be  intrusted 
with  the  education  of  youth.  Their  moral  system  and  disci- 
pline are  truly  admirable.  Their  pupils,  in  after  life, 
are  seldom  vicious  and  licentious  characters,  and  are  in 
general  men  of  learning,  science,  and  possessed  of  every 
elegant  accomplishment.  I execrate  the  conduct  of  the 
liberals  of  Madrid  in  murdering  last  year  the  helpless 
fathers,  by  whose  care  and  instruction  two  of  the  finest 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


61 


minds  of  Spain  have  been  evolved — the  two  ornaments 
of  the  liberal  cause  and  qiodern  literature  of  Spain,  for 
such  are  Toreno  and  Martinez  de  la  Rosa. 

Gathered  in  small  clusters  about  the  pillars  at  the  lower 
extremities  of  the  gold  and  silver  streets  in  Lisbon,  may  be 
observed,  about  noon  in  every  day,  certain  strange  looking 
men,  whose  appearance  is  neither  Portuguese  nor  European. 
Their  dress  generally  consists  of  a red  cap,  with  a blue  silken 
tassel  at  the  top  of  it,  a blue  tunic  girded  at  the  waist  with 
a red  sash,  and  wide  linen  pantaloons  or  trousers.  He  who 
passes  by  these  groups  generally  hears  them  conversing  in 
broken  Spanish  or  Portuguese,  and  occasionally  in  a harsh 
guttural  language,  which  the  oriental  traveller  knows  to  be 
the  Arabic,  or  a dialect  thereof.  These  people  are  the  Jews 
of  Lisbon.  Into  the  midst  of  one  of  these  groups  I one  day 
introduced  myself,  and  pronounced  a beraka,  or  blessing. 
I have  lived  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  much  amongst 
the  Hebrew  race,  and  am  well  acquainted  with  their  ways 
and  phraseology.  I was  rather  anxious  to  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  state  of  the  Portuguese  Jews,  and  I had 
now  dn  opportunity.  “ The  man  is  a powerful  rabbi,”  said 
a voice  in  Arabic;  “ it  behoves  us  to  treat  him  kindly.” 
They  welcomed  me.  I favoured  their  mistake,  and  in  a few 
days  I knew  all  that  related  to  them  and  their  traffic  in 
Lisbon. 

I found  them  a vile,  infamous  rabble,  about  two  hundred 
in  number.  With  a few  exceptions,  they  consist  of  esca- 
pados  from  the  Barbary  shore,  from  Tetuan,  from  Tangier, 
but  principally  from  Mogadore;  fellows  who  have  fled  to  a 
foreign  land  from  the  punishment  due  to  their  misdeeds. 
Their  manner  of  life  in  Lisbon  is  worthy  of  such  a goodly 
assemblage  of  amis  reunis.  The  generality  of  them  pretend 
to  work  in  gold  and  silver,  and  keep  small  peddling  shops; 
they,  however,  principally  depend  for  their  livelihood  on  an 
extensive  traffic  in  stolen  goods  which  they  carry  on.  It  is 
said  that  there  is  honour  amongst  thieves,  but  this  is 
certainly  not  the  case  with  the  Jews  of  Lisbon,  for  they 
are  so  greedy  and  avaricious,  that  they  are  constantly 
quarrelling  about  their  ill-gotten  gain,  the  result  being  that 
they  frequently  ruin  each  other.  Their  mutual  jealousy 
is  truly  extraordinary.  If  one,  by  cheating  and  roguery, 
gains  a cruzado  in  the  presence  of  another,  the  latter  in- 
stantly says  I cry  halves,  and  if  the  first  refuse  he  is  instantly 
threatened  with  an  information.  The  manner  in  which 
they  cheat  each  other  has,  with  all  its  infamy,  occasionally 
something  extremely  droll  and  ludicrous.  I was  one  day  in 
the  shop  of  a Swiri,  or  Jew  of  Mogadore,  when  a Jew  from 


62 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Gibraltar  entered,  with  a Portuguese  female,  who  held  in 
her  hand  a mantle,  richly  embroidered  with  gold. 

Gibraltar  Jew  (speaking  in  broken  Arabic). — Good-day, 
O Swiri;  God  has  favoured  me  this  day;  here  is  a bargain 
by  which  we  shall  both  gain.  I have  bought  this  mantle  of 
the  woman  almost  for  nothing,  for  it  is  stolen;  but  I am 
poor,  as  you  know,  I have  not  a cruzado;  pay  her  therefore 
the  price,  that  we  may  then  forthwith  sell  the  mantle  and 
divide  the  gain. 

Swiri. — Willingly,  brother  of  Gibraltar;  I will  pay  the 
woman  for  the  mantle;  it  does  not  appear  a bad  one. 

Thereupon  he  flung  two  cruzados  to  the  woman,  who 
forthwith  left  the  shop. 

Gibraltar  Jew. — Thanks,  brother  Swiri,  this  is  very  kind 
of  you;  now  let  us  go  and  sell  the  mantle,  the  gold  alone  is 
well  worth  a moidore;  but  I am  poor  and  have  nothing  to 
eat,  give  me,  therefore,  the  half  of  that  sum  and  keep  the 
mantle;  I shall  be  content. 

Swiri. — May  Allah  blot  out  your  name,  you  thief. 
What  mean  you  by  asking  me  for  money?  I bought  the 
mantle  of  the  woman  and  paid  for  it.  I know  nothing  of 
you.  Go  out  of  my  doors,  dog  of  a Nazarene,  if  not  I will 
pay  you  with  a kick. 

The  dispute  was  referred  to  one  of  the  sabios,  or  priests; 
but  the  sabio,  who  was  also  from  Mogadore,  at  once  took  the 
part  of  the  Swiri,  and  decided  that  the  other  should  have 
nothing.  Whereupon  the  Gibraltar  Jew  cursed  the  sabio, 
his  father,  mother,  and  all  his  family.  The  sabio  replied, 
" I put  you  in  ndui,”  a kind  of  purgatory  or  hell.  “ I put 
you  in  seven  nduis,”  retorted  the  incensed  Jew,  over  whom, 
however,  superstitious  fear  speedily  prevailed;  he  faltered, 
became  pale,  and  dropping  his  voice,  retreated,  trembling  in 
every  limb. 

The  Jews  have  two  synagogues  in  Lisbon,  both  are 
small;  one  is,  however,  tolerably  well  furnished,  it  has  its 
reading  desk,  and  in  the  middle  there  is  a rather  handsome 
chandelier;  the  other  is  little  better  than  a sty,  filthy  to  a 
degree,  without  ornament  of  any  kind.  The  congregation  of 
this  last  are  thieves  to  a man;  no  Jew  of  the  slightest 
respectability  ever  enters  it. 

How  well  do  superstition  and  crime  go  hand  in  hand. 
These  wretched  beings  break  the  eternal  commandments 
of  their  Maker  without  scruple;  but  they  will  not  partake 
of  the  beast  of  the  uncloven  foot,  and  the  fish  which  has  no 
scales.  They  pay  no  regard  to  the  denunciations  of 
holy  prophets  against  the  children  of  sin,  but  they  quake 
at  the  sound  of  a dark  cabalistic  word,  pronounced  by  one 
perhaps  their  equal,  or  superior,  in  villainy,  as  if  God 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  63 

would  delegate  the  exercise  of  his  power  to  the  workers  of 
iniquity. 

I was  one  day  sauntering  on  the  Caesodr6,  when  a Jew, 
with  whom  I had  previously  exchanged  a word  or  two,  came 
up  and  addressed  me. 

Jew . — The  blessing  of  God  upon  you,  brother;  I know 
you  to  be  a wise  and  powerful  man,  and  I have  conceived 
much  regard  for  you;  it  is  on  that  account  that  I wish  to 
put  you  in  the  way  of  gaining  much  money.  Come  with  me, 
and  I will  conduct  you  to  a place  where  there  are  forty  chests 
of  tea.  It  is  a sereka  (a  robbery),  and  the  thieves  are  willing 
to  dispose  of  it  for  a trifle,  for  there  is  search  being  made, 
and  they  are  in  much  fear.  I can  raise  one  half  of  what 
they  demand,  do  you  supply  the  other,  we  will  then  divide 
it,  each  shall  go  his  own  way  and  dispose  of  his  portion. 

Myself . — Wherefore,  O son  of  Arbat,  do  you  propose 
this  to  me,  who  am  a stranger?  Surely  you  are  mad. 
Have  you  not  your  own  people  about  you  whom  you  know, 
and  in  whom  you  can  confide? 

Jew. — It  is  because  I know  our  people  here  that  I do 
not  confide  in  them;  we  are  in  the  galoot  of  sin.  Were  I 
to  confide  in  my  brethren  there  would  be  a dispute,  and 
perhaps  they  would  rob  me,  and  few  of  them  have  any 
money.  Were  I to  apply  to  the  sabio  he  might  consent, 
but  when  I ask  for  my  portion  he  would  put  me  in  ndui. 
You  I do  not  fear;  you  are  good  and  would  do  me  no  harm, 
unless  I attempted  to  deceive  you,  and  that  I dare  not  do, 
for  I know  you  are  powerful.  Come  with  me,  master,  for 
I wish  to  gain  something,  that  I may  return  to  Arbat,  where 
I have  children  . . . 

Such  are  Jews  in  Lisbon. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Cold  of  Portugal — Extortion  prevented — Sensation  of  Loneliness — 
The  Dog — The  Convent — Enchanting  Landscape — Moorish  Fortresses 
— Prayer  for  the  Sick. 

About  a fortnight  after  my  return  from  Evora,  having  made 
the  necessary  preparations,  I set  out  on  my  journey  for 
Badajoz,  from  which  town  I intended  to  take  the  diligence 
to  Madrid.  Badajoz  lies  about  a hundred  miles  distant  from 
Lisbon,  and  is  the  principal  frontier  town  of  Spain  in  the 
direction  of  the  Alemtejo.  To  reach  this  place,  it  was 
necessary  to  retravel  the  road  as  far  as  Monte  Moro,  which 


64 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


I had  already  passed  in  my  excursion  to  Evora;  I had 
therefore  very  little  pleasure  to  anticipate  from  novelty  of 
scenery.  Moreover,  in  this  journey  I should  be  a solitary 
traveller,  with  no  other  companion  than  the  muleteer,  as  it 
was  my  intention  to  take  my  servant  no  farther  than  Aldea 
Gallega,  for  which  place  I started  at  four  in  the  afternoon. 
Warned  by  former  experience,  I did  not  now  embark  in  a 
small  boat,  but  in  one  of  the  regular  passage  felouks,  in 
which  we  reached  Aldea  Gallega,  after  a voyage  of  six  hours; 
for  the  boat  was  heavy,  there  was  no  wind  to  propel  it,  and 
the  crew  were  obliged  to  ply  their  huge  oars  the  whole  way. 
In  a word,  this  passage  was  the  reverse  of  the  first, — safe  in 
every  respect, — but  so  sluggish  and  tiresome,  that  I a hun- 
dred times  wished  myself  again  under  the  guidance  of  the 
wild  lad,  galloping  before  the  hurricane  over  the  foaming 
billows.  From  eight  till  ten  the  cold  was  truly  terrible,  and 
though  I was  closely  wrapped  in  an  excellent  fur  “ shoob,” 
with  which  I had  braved  the  frosts  of  Russian  winters,  I 
shivered  in  every  limb,  and  was  far  more  rejoiced  when  I 
again  set  my  foot  on  the  Alemtejo,  than  when  I landed  for  the 
first  time,  after  having  escaped  the  horrors  of  the  tempest. 

I took  up  my  quarters  for  the  night  at  a house  to  which 
my  friend  who  feared  the  darkness  had  introduced  me  on 
my  return  from  Evora,  and  where,  though  I paid  mercilessly 
dear  for  everything,  the  accommodation  was  superior  to 
that  of  the  common  inn  in  the  square.  My  first  care  now 
was  to  inquire  for  mules  to  convey  myself  and  baggage  to 
Elvas,  from  whence  there  are  but  three  short  leagues  to  the 
Spanish  town  of  Badajoz.  The  people  of  the  house  informed 
me  that  they  had  an  excellent  pair  at  my  disposal,  but  when 
I inquired  the  price,  they  were  not  ashamed  to  demand  four 
moidores.  I offered  them  three,  which  was  too  much,  but 
which,  however,  they  did  not  accept,  for  knowing  me  to  be 
an  Englishman,  they  thought  they  had  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity to  practise  imposition,  not  imagining  that  a person 
so  rich  as  an  Englishman  must  be,  would  go  out  in  a cold  night 
for  the  sake  of  obtaining  a reasonable  bargain.  They  were, 
however,  much  mistaken,  as  I told  them  that  rather  than 
encourage  them  in  their  knavery,  I should  be  content  to 
return  to  Lisbon;  whereupon  they  dropped  their  demand 
to  three  and  a half,  but  I made  them  no  answer,  and  going 
out  with  Antonio,  proceeded  to  the  house  of  the  old  man 
who  had  accompanied  us  to  Evora.  We  knocked  a con- 
siderable time,  for  he  was  in  bed;  at  length  he  arose  and 
admitted  us,  but  on  hearing  our  object,  he  said  that  his  mules 
were  again  gone  to  Evora,  under  the  charge  of  the  boy,  for 
the  purpose  of  transporting  some  articles  of  merchandize. 
He,  however,  recommended  us  to  a person  in  the  neighbour- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


65 


hood  who  kept  mules  for  hire,  and  there  Antonio  engaged  two 
fine  beasts  for  two  moidores  and  a half.  I say  he  engaged 
them,  for  I stood  aloof  and  spoke  not,  and  the  proprietor, 
who  exhibited  them,  and  who  stood  half-dressed,  with  a 
lamp  in  his  hand  and  shivering  with  cold,  was  not  aware 
that  they  were  intended  for  a foreigner  till  the  agreement 
was  made,  and  he  had  received  a part  of  the  sum  in  earnest. 
I returned  to  the  inn  well  pleased,  and  having  taken  some 
refreshment  went  to  rest,  paying  little  attention  to  the 
people,  who  glanced  daggers  at  me  from  their  small  Jewish 
eyes. 

At  five  the  next  morning  the  mules  were  at  the  door; 
a lad  of  some  nineteen  or  twenty  years  of  age  attended  them ; 
he  was  short  but  exceedingly  strong  built,  and  possessed  the 
largest  head  which  I ever  beheld  upon  mortal  shoulders; 
neck  he  had  none,  at  least  I could  discern  nothing  which 
could  be  entitled  to  that  name.  His  features  were  hideously 
ugly,  and  upon  addressing  him  I discovered  that  he  was  an 
idiot.  Such  was  my  intended  companion  in  a journey  of 
nearly  a hundred  miles,  which  would  occupy  four  days,  and 
which  lay  over  the  most  savage  and  ill  noted  track  in  the 
whole  kingdom.  I took  leave  of  my  servant  almost  with 
tears,  for  he  had  always  served  me  with  the  greatest  fidelity, 
and  had  exhibited  an  assiduity  and  a wish  to  please  which 
afforded  me  the  utmost  satisfaction. 

We  started,  my  uncouth  guide  sitting  tailor-fashion  on 
the  sumpter  mule  upon  the  baggage.  The  moon  had  just 
gone  down,  and  the  morning  was  pitchy  dark,  and,  as  usual, 
piercingly  cold.  He  soon  entered  the  dismal  wood,  which  I 
had  already  traversed,  and  through  which  we  wended  our 
way  for  some  time,  slowly  and  mournfully.  Not  a sound 
was  to  be  heard  save  the  trampling  of  the  animals,  not  a 
breath  of  air  moved  the  leafless  branches,  no  animal  stirred 
in  the  thickets,  no  bird,  not  even  the  owl,  flew  over  our 
heads,  all  seemed  desolate  and  dead,  and  during  my  many 
and  far  wanderings,  I never  experienced  a greater  sensation 
of  loneliness,  and  a greater  desire  for  conversation  and  an 
exchange  of  ideas  than  then.  To  speak  to  the  idiot  was 
useless,  for  though  competent  to  show  the  road,  with  which 
he  was  well  acquainted,  he  had  no  other  answer  than  an 
uncouth  laugh  to  any  question  put  to  him.  Thus  situated, 
like  many  other  persons  when  human  comfort  is  rot  at  hand, 
I turned  my  heart  to  God,  and  began  to  commune  with 
Him,  the  result  of  which  was  that  my  mind  soon  became 
quieted  and  comforted. 

We  passed  on  our  way  uninterrupted;  no  thieves 
showed  themselves,  nor  indeed  did  we  see  a single  individual 
until  we  arrived  at  Pegoens,  and  from  thence  to  Yendas 
33— c 


66 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Novas  our  fortune  was  the  same.  I was  welcomed  with 
great  kindness  by  the  people  of  the  hostelry  of  the  latter 
place,  who  were  well  acquainted  with  me  on  account  of  my- 
having  twice  passed  the  night  under  their  roof.  The  name 
of  the  keeper  of  this  is,  or  was,  Joze  Dias  Azido,  and  unlike 
the  generality  of  those  of  the  same  profession  as  himself 
in  Portugal,  he  is  an  honest  man,  and  a stranger  and 
foreigner  who  takes  up  his  quarters  at  his  inn,  may  rest 
assured  that  he  will  not  be  most  unmercifully  pillaged  and 
cheated  when  the  hour  of  reckoning  shall  arrive,  as  he  will 
not  be  charged  a single  re  more  than  a native  Portuguese  on 
a similar  occasion.  I paid  at  this  place  exactly  one  half  of 
the  sum  which  was  demanded  from  me  at  Arroyolos,  where 
I passed  the  ensuing  night,  and  where  the  accommodation 
was  in  every  respect  inferior. 

At  twelve  next  day  we  arrived  at  Monte  Moro,  and,  as  I 
was  not  pressed  for  time,  I determined  upon  viewing  the 
ruins  which  cover  the  top  and  middle  part  of  the  stately 
hill  which  towers  above  the  town.  Having  ordered  some 
refreshment  at  the  inn  where  we  dismounted,  I ascended  till 
I arrived  at  a large  wall  or  rampart,  which,  at  a certain 
altitude  embraces  the  whole  hill.  I crossed  a rude  bridge  of 
stones,  which  bestrides  a small  hollow  or  trench;  and 
passing  by  a large  tower,  entered  through  a portal  into  the 
enclosed  part  of  the  hill.  On  the  left  hand  stood  a church, 
in  good  preservation,  and  still  devoted  to  the  purposes  of 
religion,  but  which  I could  not  enter,  as  the  door  was  locked, 
and  I saw  no  one  at  hand  to  open  it. 

I soon  found  that  my  curiosity  had  led  me  to  a most 
extraordinary  place,  which  quite  beggars  the  scanty  powers 
of  description  with  which  I am  gifted.  I stumbled  on  amongst 
ruined  walls,  and  at  one  time  found  I was  treading  over 
vaults,  as  I suddenly  started  back  from  a yawning  orifice  into 
which  my  next  step,  as  I strolled  musing  along,  would  have 
precipitated  me.  I proceeded  for  a considerable  way  by  the 
eastern  wall,  till  I heard  a tremendous  bark,  and  presently  an 
immense  dog,  such  as  those  which  guard  the  flocks  in  the 
neighbourhood  against  the  wolves,  came  bounding  to  attack 
me  “ with  eyes  that  glowed  and  fangs  that  grinned.,,  Had  I 
retreated,  or  had  recourse  to  any  other  mode  of  defence 
than  that  which  I invariably  practise  under  such  circum- 
stances, he  would  probably  have  worried  me;  but  I stooped 
till  my  chin  nearly  touched  my  knee,  and  looked  him  full  in 
the  eyes,  and  as  John  Leyden  says,  in  the  noblest  ballad 
which  the  Land  of  Heather  has  produced: — 

“The  hound  he  yowled  and  back  he  fled, 

As  struck  with  fairy  charm.5’ 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


67 


It  is  a fact  known  to  many  people,  and  I believe  it  has 
been  frequently  stated,  that  no  large  and  fierce  dog  or  animal 
of  any  kind,  with  the  exception  of  the  bull,  which  shuts  its 
eyes  and  rushes  blindly  forward,  will  venture  to  attack  an 
individual  who  confronts  it  with  a firm  and  motionless 
countenance.  I say  large  and  fierce,  for  it  is  much  easier  to 
repel  a bloodhound  or  bear  of  Finland  in  this  manner  than 
a dunghill  cur  or  a terrier,  against  which  a stick  or  a stone 
is  a much  more  certain  defence.  This  will  astonish  no  one 
who  considers  that  the  calm  reproving  glance  of  reason, 
which  allays  the  excesses  of  the  mighty  and  courageous  in 
our  own  species,  has  seldom  any  other  effect  than  to  add  to 
the  insolence  of  the  feeble  and  foolish,  who  become  placid 
as  doves  upon  the  infliction  of  chastisements,  which  if 
attempted  to  be  applied  to  the  former  would  only  serve  to 
render  them  more  terrible,  and  like  gunpowder  cast  on  a 
flame,  cause  them  in  mad  desperation  to  scatter  destruction 
around  them. 

The  barking  of  the  dog  brought  out  from  a kind  of 
alley  an  elderly  man,  whom  I supposed  to  be  his  master, 
and  of  whom  I made  some  inquiries  respecting  the  place. 
The  man  was  civil,  and  informed  me  that  he  served  as  a 
soldier  in  the  British  army,  under  the  “ great  lord,”  during 
the  Peninsular  war.  He  said  that  there  was  a convent  of 
nuns  a little  farther  on,  which  he  would  show  me,  and 
thereupon  led  the  way  to  the  south-east  part  of  the  wall, 
where  stood  a large  dilapidated  edifice. 

We  entered  a dark  stone  apartment,  at  one  corner  of 
which  was  a kind  of  window  occupied  by  a turning  table, 
at  which  articles  were  received  into  the  convent  or  delivered 
out.  He  rang  the  bell,  and,  without  saying  a word,  retired, 
leaving  me  rather  perplexed;  but  presently  I heard, 
though  the  speaker  was  invisible,  a soft  feminine  voice 
demanding  who  I was,  and  what  I wanted.  I replied  that 
I was  an  Englishman  travelling  into  Spain,  and  that  passing 
through  Monte  Moro  I had  ascended  the  hill  for  the  purpose 
of  seeing  the  ruins.  The  voice  then  said,  “ I suppose 
you  are  a military  man  going  to  fight  against  the  king,  like 
the  rest  of  your  countrymen.”  “ No,”  said  I,  “ I am  not 
a military  man,  but  a Christian,  and  I go  not  to  shed  blood 
but  to  endeavour  to  introduce  the  gospel  of  Christ  into  a 
country  where  it  is  not  known;  ” whereupon  there  was  a 
stifled  titter.  I then  inquired  if  there  were  any  copies  of 
the  Holy  Scriptures  in  the  convent,  but  the  friendly  voice 
could  give  me  no  information  on  that  point,  and  I scarcely 
believe  that  its  possessor  understood  the  purport  of  my 
question.  It  informed  me,  that  the  office  of  lady  abbess 
of  the  house  was  an  annual  one,  and  that  every  year  there 


68 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


was  a fresh  superior;  on  my  inquiring  whether  the  nuns 
did  not  frequently  find  the  time  exceedingly  heavy  on  theif* 
hands,  it  stated  that,  when  they  had  nothing  better  to  do, 
they  employed  themselves  in  making  cheesecakes,  which 
were  disposed  of  in  the  neighbourhood.  I thanked  the 
voice  for  its  communications,  and  walked  away.  Whilst 
proceeding  under  the  wall  of  the  house  towards  the  south- 
west, I heard  a fresh  and  louder  tittering  above  my  head, 
and  looking  up,  saw  three  or  four  windows  crowded  with 
dusky  faces,  and  black  waving  hair;  these  belonged  to  the 
nuns,  anxious  to  obtain  a view  of  the  stranger.  After 
kissing  my  hand  repeatedly,  I moved  on,  and  soon  arrived 
at  the  south-west  end  of  this  mountain  of  curiosities. 
There  I found  the  remains  of  a large  building,  which 
seemed  to  have  been  originally  erected  in  the  shape  of  a 
cross.  A tower  at  its  eastern  entrance  was  still  entire; 
the  western  side  was  quite  in  ruins,  and  stood  on  the  verge 
of  the  hill  overlooking  the  valley,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
ran  the  stream  I have  spoken  of  on  a former  occasion. 

The  day  was  intensely  hot,  notwithstanding  the  cold- 
ness of  the  preceding  nights;  and  the  brilliant  sun  of 
Portugal  now  illumined  a landscape  of  entrancing  beauty. 
Groves  of  cork  trees  covered  the  farther  side  of  the  valley 
and  the  distant  acclivities,  exhibiting  here  and  there 
charming  vistas,  where  various  flocks  of  cattle  were  feeding; 
the  soft  murmur  of  the  stream,  which  was  at  intervals 
chafed  and  broken  by  huge  stones,  ascended  to  my  ears 
and  filled  my  mind  with  delicious  feelings.  I sat  down 
on  the  broken  wall  and  remained  gazing,  and  listening, 
and  shedding  tears  of  rapture;  for,  of  all  the  pleasures 
which  a bountiful  God  permitteth  his  children  to  enjoy, 
none  are  so  dear  to  some  hearts  as  the  music  of  forests, 
and  streams,  and  the  view  of  the  beauties  of  his  glorious 
creation.  An  hour  elapsed,  and  I still  maintained  my  seat 
on  the  wall;  the  past  scenes  of  my  life  flitting  before  my 
eyes  in  airy  and  fantastic  array,  through  which  every  now 
and  then  peeped  trees  and  hills  and  other  patches  of  the 
real  landscape  which  I was  confronting;  the  sun  burnt 
my  visage,  but  I heeded  it  not;  and  I believe  that  I should 
have  remained  till  night,  buried  in  these  reveries,  which, 
I confess,  only  served  to  enervate  the  mind,  and  steal 
many  a minute  which  might  be  most  profitably  employed, 
had  not  the  report  of  the  gun  of  a fowler  in  the  valley, 
which  awakened  the  echoes  of  the  woods,  hills,  and  ruins, 
caused  me  to  start  on  my  feet,  and  remember  that  I had 
to  proceed  three  leagues  before  I could  reach  the  hostelry 
where  I intended  to  pass  the  night. 

I bent  my  steps  to  the  inn,  passing  along  a kind  of 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


69 


rampart:  shortly  before  I reached  the  portal,  which  I 

have  already  mentioned,  I observed  a kind  of  vault  on 
my  right  hand,  scooped  out  of  the  side  of  the  hill;  its  roof 
was  supported  by  three  pillars,  though  part  of  it  had  given 
way  towards  the  farther  end,  so  that  the  light  was  admitted 
through  a chasm  in  the  top.  It  might  have  been  intended 
for  a chapel,  a dungeon,  or  a cemetery,  but  I should  rather 
think  for  the  latter;  one  thing  I am  certain  of,  that  it  was 
not  the  work  of  Moorish  hands,  and  indeed  throughout 
my  wanderings  in  this  place  I saw  nothing  which  reminded 
me  of  that  most  singular  people.  The  hill  on  which  the 
ruins  stand  was  doubtless  originally  a strong  fortress  of 
the  Moors,  who,  upon  their  first  irruption  into  the  peninsula, 
seized  and  fortified  most  of  the  lofty  and  naturally  strong 
positions,  but  they  had  probably  lost  it  at  an  early  period, 
so  that  the  broken  walls  and  edifices,  which  at  present  cover 
the  hill,  are  probably  remains  of  the  labours  of  the  Christians 
after  the  place  had  been  rescued  from  the  hands  of  the 
terrible  enemies  of  their  faith.  Monte  Moro  will  perhaps 
recall  Cintra  to  the  mind  of  the  traveller,  as  it  exhibits  a 
distant  resemblance  to  that  place;  nevertheless,  there  is 
something  in  Cintra  wild  and  savage,  to  which  Monte 
Moro  has  no  pretension;  its  scathed  and  gigantic  crags 
are  piled  upon  each  other  in  a manner  which  seems  to 
menace  headlong  destruction  to  whatever  is  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood; and  the  ruins  which  still  cling  to  those  crags 
seem  more  like  eagles'  nests  than  the  remains  of  the  habita- 
tions even  of  Moors;  whereas  those  of  Monte  Moro  stand 
comparatively  at  their  ease  on  the  broad  back  of  a hill, 
which,  though  stately  and  commanding,  has  no  crags 
nor  precipices,  and  which  can  be  ascended  on  every  side 
without  much  difficulty:  yet  I was  much  gratified  by  my 
visit,  and  I shall  wander  far  indeed  before  I forget  the  voice 
in  the  dilapidated  convent,  the  ruined  walls  amongst  which 
I strayed,  and  the  rampart  where,  sunk  in  dreamy  rapture, 
I sat  during  a bright  sunny  hour  at  Monte  Moro. 

I returned  to  the  inn,  where  I refreshed  myself  with 
tea  and  very  sweet  and  delicious  cheesecakes,  the  handiwork 
of  the  nuns  in  the  convent  above.  Observing  gloom  and 
unhappiness  on  the  countenances  of  the  people  of  the 
house,  I inquired  the  reason  of  the  hostess,  who  sat  almost 
motionless  on  the  hearth  by  the  fire;  whereupon  she 
informed  me  that  her  husband  was  deadly  sick  with  a dis- 
order which,  from  her  description,  I supposed  to  be  a species 
of  cholera;  she  added,  that  the  surgeon  who  attended  him 
entertained  no  hopes  of  his  recovery.  I replied  that  it 
was  quite  in  the  power  of  God  to  restore  her  husband  in  a 
few  hours  from  the  verge  of  the  grave  to  health  and  vigour, 


70 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  that  it  was  her  duty  to  pray  to  that  Omnipotent 
Being  with  all  fervency.  I added,  that  if  she  did  not  know 
how  to  pray  upon  such  an  occasion,  I was  ready  to  pray 
for  her,  provided  she  would  join  in  the  spirit  of  the  supplica- 
tion. I then  offered  up  a short  prayer  in  Portuguese, 
in  which  I entreated  the  Lord  to  remove,  if  he  thought 
proper,  the  burden  of  affliction  under  which  the  family 
was  labouring. 

The  woman  listened  attentively,  with  her  hands  devoutly 
clasped,  until  the  prayer  was  finished,  and  then  gazed  at 
me  seemingly  with  astonishment,  but  uttered  no  word  by 
which  I could  gather  that  she  was  pleased  or  displeased 
with  what  I had  said.  I now  bade  the  family  farewell, 
and  having  mounted  my  mule,  set  forward  to  Arroyolos. 


CHAPTER  VII 

The  Druids’  Stone — The  Young  Spaniard — Ruffianly  Soldiers — Evils  of 
War — Estremoz — The  Brawl — Ruined  Watch  Tower — Glimpse  of 
Spain — Old  Times  and  New. 

After  proceeding  about  a league  and  a half,  a blast  came 
booming  from  the  north,  rolling  before  it  immense  clouds 
of  dust;  happily  it  did  not  blow  in  our  faces,  or  it  would 
have  been  difficult  to  proceed,  so  great  was  its  violence. 
We  had  left  the  road  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  one  of 
those  short  cuts,  which,  though  possible  for  a horse  or  a 
mule,  are  far  too  rough  to  permit  any  species  of  carriage 
to  travel  along  them.  We  were  in  the  midst  of  sands, 
brushwood,  and  huge  pieces  of  rock,  which  thickly  studded 
the  ground.  These  are  the  stones  which  form  the  sierras 
of  Spain  and  Portugal;  those  singular  mountains  which 
rise  in  naked  horridness,  like  the  ribs  of  some  mighty 
carcass  from  which  the  flesh  has  been  torn.  Many  of  these 
stones,  or  rocks,  grew  out  of  the  earth,  and  many  lay  on 
its  surface  unattached,  perhaps  wrested  from  their  bed 
by  the  waters  of  the  deluge.  Whilst  toiling  along  these 
wild  wastes,  I observed,  a little  way  to  my  left,  a pile  of 
stones  of  rather  a singular  appearance,  and  rode  up  to  it. 
It  was  a druidical  altar,  and  the  most  perfect  and  beautiful 
one  of  the  kind  which  I had  ever  seen.  It  was  circular, 
and  consisted  of  stones  immensely  large  and  heavy  at  the 
bottom,  which  towards  the  top  became  thinner  and  thinner, 
having  been  fashioned  by  the  hand  of  art  to  something 
of  the  shape  of  scollop  shells.  These  were  surmounted 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


71 


by  a very  large  flat  stone,  which  slanted  down  towards 
the  south,  where  was  a door.  Three  or  four  individuals 
might  have  taken  shelter  within  the  interior,  in  which  was 
growing  a small  thorn  tree. 

I gazed  with  reverence  and  awe  upon  the  pile  where 
the  first  colonies  of  Europe  offered  their  worship  to  the 
unknown  God.  The  temples  of  the  mighty  and  skilful 
Roman,  comparatively  of  modern  date,  have  crumbled 
to  dust  in  its  neighbourhood.  The  churches  of  the  Arian 
Goth,  his  successor  in  power,  have  sunk  beneath  the  earth, 
and  are  not  to  be  found;  and  the  mosques  of  the  Moor, 
the  conqueror  of  the  Goth,  where  and  what  are  they? 
Upon  the  rock,  masses  of  hoary  and  vanishing  ruin.  Not 
so  the  Druids'  stone;  there  it  stands  on  the  hill  of  winds, 
as  strong  and  as  freshly  new  as  the  day,  perhaps  thirty 
centuries  back,  when  it  was  first  raised,  by  means  which 
are  a mystery.  Earthquakes  have  heaved  it,  but  its  cope- 
stone  has  not  fallen;  rain  floods  have  deluged  it,  but  failed 
to  sweep  it  from  its  station;  the  burning  sun  has  flashed 
upon  it,  but  neither  split  nor  crumbled  it;  and  time,  stern 
old  time,  has  rubbed  it  with  his  iron  tooth,  and  with  what 
effect  let  those  who  view  it  declare.  There  it  stands, 
and  he  who  wishes  to  study  the  literature,  the  learning, 
and  the  history  of  the  ancient  Celt  and  Cymbrian,  may 
gaze  on  its  broad  covering,  and  glean  from  that  blank  stone 
the  whole  known  amount.  The  Roman  has  left  behind 
him  his  deathless  writings,  his  history,  and  his  songs; 
the  Goth  his  liturgy,  his  traditions,  and  the  germs  of  noble 
institutions;  the  Moor  his  chivalry,  his  discoveries  in 
medicine,  and  the  foundations  of  modern  commerce;  and 
where  is  the  memorial  of  the  Druidic  races?  Yonder:  that 
pile  of  eternal  stone  I 

We  arrived  at  Arroyolos  about  seven  at  night.  I took 
possession  of  a large  two-bedded  room,  and,  as  I was 
preparing  to  sit  down  to  supper,  the  hostess  came  to  inquire 
whether  I had  any  objection  to  receive  a young  Spaniard 
for  the  night.  She  said  he  had  just  arrived  with  a train 
of  muleteers,  and  that  she  had  no  other  room  in  which 
she  could  lodge  him.  I replied  that  I was  willing,  and 
in  about  half  an  hour  he  made  his  appearance,  having 
first  supped  with  his  companions.  He  was  a very  gentle- 
manly, good-looking  lad  of  seventeen.  He  addressed  me 
in  his  native  language,  and,  finding  that  I understood  him, 
he  commenced  talking  with  astonishing  volubility.  In 
the  space  of  five  minutes  he  informed  me  that,  having  a 
desire  to  see  the  world,  he  had  run  away  from  his  friends, 
who  were  people  of  opulence  at  Madrid,  and  that  he  did 
not  intend  to  return  until  he  had  travelled  through  various 


72 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


countries.  I told  him  that  if  what  he  said  was  true,  he 
had  done  a very  wicked  and  foolish  action;  wicked,  because 
he  must  have  overwhelmed  those  with  grief  whom  he  was 
bound  to  honour  and  love,  and  foolish,  inasmuch  as  he  was 
going  to  expose  himself  to  inconceivable  miseries  and 
hardships,  which  would  shortly  cause  him  to  rue  the  step 
he  had  taken;  that  he  would  be  only  welcome  in  foreign 
countries  so  long  as  he  had  money  to  spend,  and  when  he 
had  none,  he  would  be  repulsed  as  a vagabond,  and  would 
perhaps  be  allowed  .to  perish  of  hunger.  He  replied  that 
he  had  a considerable  sum  of  money  with  him,  no  less 
than  a hundred  dollars,  which  would  last  him  a long  time, 
and  that  when  it  was  spent  he  should  perhaps  be  able  to 
obtain  more.  “ Your  hundred  dollars,”  said  I,  “ will 
scarcely  last  you  three  months  in  the  country  in  which  you 
are,  even  if  it  be  not  stolen  from  you;  and  you  may  as  well 
hope  to  gather  money  on  the  tops  of  the  mountains  as 
expect  to  procure  more  by  honourable  means.”  But  he 
had  not  yet  sufficiently  drank  of  the  cup  of  experience 
to  attend  much  to  what  I said,  and  I soon  after  changed 
the  subject.  About  five  next  morning  he  came  to  my 
bedside  to  take  leave,  as  his  muleteers  were  preparing  to 
depart.  I gave  him  the  usual  Spanish  valediction  ( Vaya 
listed  con  Dios),  and  saw  no  more  of  him. 

At  nine,  after  having  paid  a most  exorbitant  sum  for 
slight  accommodation,  I started  from  Arroyolos,  which 
is  a town  or  large  village  situated  on  very  elevated  ground, 
and  discernible  afar  off.  It  can  boast  of  the  remains  of 
a large  ancient  and  seemingly  Moorish  castle,  which  stands 
on  a hill  on  the  left  as  you  take  the  road  to  Estremoz. 

About  a mile  from  Arroyolos  I overtook  a train  of  carts 
escorted  by  a number  of  Portuguese  soldiers,  conveying 
stores  and  ammunition  into  Spain.  Six  or  seven  of  these 
soldiers  marched  a considerable  way  in  front;  they  were 
villainous  looking  ruffians  upon  whose  livid  and  ghastly 
countenances  were  written  murder,  and  all  the  other 
crimes  which  the  decalogue  forbids.  As  I passed  by,  one 
of  them,  with  a harsh,  croaking  voice,  commenced  cursing 
all  foreigners.  “ There,”  said  he,  “ is  this  Frenchman 
riding  on  horseback  ” (I  was  on  a mule),  “ with  a man  ” 
(the  idiot)  “ to  take  care  of  him,  and  all  because  he  is  rich; 
whilst  I,  who  am  a poor  soldier,  am  obliged  to  tramp  on 
foot.  I could  find  it  in  my  heart  to  shoot  him  dead,  for 
in  what  respect  is  he  better  than  I?  But  he  is  a foreigner, 
and  the  devil  helps  foreigners  and  hates  the  Portuguese.” 
He  continued  shouting  his  remarks  until  I got  about  forty 
yards  in  advance,  when  I commenced  laughing;  but  it 
would  have  been  more  prudent  in  me  to  have  held  my 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


73 


peace,  for  the  next  moment,  with  bang — bang,  two  bullets, 
well  aimed,  came  whizzing  past  my  ears.  A small  river  lay 
just  before  me,  though  the  bridge  was  a considerable  way  on 
my  left.  I spurred  my  animal  through  it,  closely  followed 
by  my  terrified  guide,  and  commenced  galloping  along  a 
sandy  plain  on  the  other  side,  and  so  escaped  with  my  life. 

These  fellows,  with  the  look  of  banditti,  were  in  no 
respect  better;  and  the  traveller  who  should  meet  them 
in  a solitary  place  would  have  little  reason  to  bless  his 
good  fortune.  One  of  the  carriers  (all  of  whom  were 
Spaniards  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Badajoz,  and  had  been 
despatched  into  Portugal  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the 
stores),  whom  I afterwards  met  in  the  aforesaid  town, 
informed  me  that  the  whole  party  were  equally  bad,  and 
that  he  and  his  companions  had  been  plundered  by  them 
of  various  articles,  and  threatened  with  death  if  they 
attempted  to  complain.  How  frightful  to  figure  to  oneself 
an  army  of  such  beings  in  a foreign  land,  sent  thither  either 
to  invade  or  defend;  and  yet  Spain,  at  the  time  I am 
writing  this,  is  looking  forward  to  armed  assistance  from 
Portugal.  May  the  Lord  in  his  mercy  grant  that  the 
soldiers  who  proceed  to  her  assistance  may  be  of  a different 
stamp:  and  yet,  from  the  lax  state  of  discipline  which 

exists  in  the  Portuguese  army,  in  comparison  with  that  of 
England  and  France,  I am  afraid  that  the  inoffensive 
population  of  the  disturbed  provinces  will  say  that  wolves 
have  been  summoned  to  chase  away  foxes  from  the  sheep- 
fold.  O ! may  I live  to  see  the  day  when  soldiery  will  no  longer 
be  tolerated  in  any  civilized,  or  at  least  Christian,  country  I 

I pursued  my  route  to  Estremoz,  passing  by  Monte 
Moro  Novo,  which  is  a tall  dusky  hill,  surmounted  by  an 
ancient  edifice,  probably  Moorish.  The  country  was  dreary 
and  deserted,  but  offering  here  and  there  a valley  studded 
with  cork  trees  and  azinheiras.  After  midday  the  wind, 
which  during  the  night  and  morning  had  much  abated, 
again  blew  with  such  violence  as  nearly  to  deprive  me  of 
my  senses,  though  it  was  still  in  our  rear. 

I was  heartily  glad  when,  on  ascending  a rising  ground, 
at  about  four  o'clock,  I saw  Estremoz  on  its  hill  at  something 
less  than  a league's  distance.  Here  the  view  became  wildly 
interesting;  the  sun  was  sinking  in  the  midst  of  red  and 
stormy  clouds,  and  its  rays  were  reflected  on  the  dun  walls 
of  the  lofty  town  to  which  we  were  wending.  Nor  far  distant 
to  the  south-west  rose  Serra  Dorso,  which  I had  seen  from 
Evora,  and  which  is  the  most  beautiful  mountain  in  the 
Alemtejo.  My  idiot  guide  turned  his  uncouth  visage 
towards  it,  and  becoming  suddenly  inspired,  opened  his 
mouth  for  the  first  time  during  the  day,  I might  almost  say 


74 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


since  we  had  left  Aldea  Gallega,  and  began  to  tell  me  what 
rare  hunting  was  to  be  obtained  in  that  mountain.  He 
likewise  described  with  great  minuteness  a wonderful  dog, 
which  was  kept  in  the  neighbourhood  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  the  wolves  and  wild  boars,  and  for  which  the 
proprietor  had  refused  twenty  moidores. 

At  length  we  reached  Estremoz,  and  took  up  our 
quarters  at  the  principal  inn,  which  looks  upon  a large  plain 
or  market-place  occupying  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  which 
is  so  extensive  that  I should  think  ten  thousand  soldiers 
at  least  might  perform  their  evolutions  there  with  ease. 

The  cold  was  far  too  terrible  to  permit  me  to  remain  in 
the  chamber  to  which  I had  been  conducted;  I therefore 
went  down  to  a kind  of  kitchen  on  one  side  of  the  arched 
passage,  which  led  under  the  house  to  the  yard  and  stables. 
A tremendous  withering  blast  poured  through  this  passage, 
like  the  water  through  the  flush  of  a mill.  A large  cork  tree 
was  blazing  in  the  kitchen  beneath  a spacious  chimney;  and 
around  it  were  gathered  a noisy  crew  of  peasants  and 
farmers  from  the  neighbourhood,  and  three  or  four  Spanish 
smugglers  from  the  frontier.  I with  difficulty  obtained  a 
place  amongst  them,  as  a Portuguese  or  a Spaniard  will  seldom 
make  way  for  a stranger,  till  called  upon  or  pushed  aside,  but 
prefers  gazing  upon  him  with  an  expression  which  seems  to  say, 
I know  what  you  want,  but  I prefer  remaining  where  I am. 

I now  first  began  to  observe  an  alteration  in  the  language 
spoken;  it  had  become  less  sibilant,  and  more  guttural; 
and,  when  addressing  each  other,  the  speakers  used  the 
Spanish  title  of  courtesy  usted,  or  your  worthiness,  instead 
of  the  Portuguese  high  flowing  vossem  se,  or  your  lordship. 
This  is  the  result  of  constant  communication  with  the  natives 
of  Spain,  who  never  condescend  to  speak  Portuguese,  even 
when  in  Portugal,  but  persist  in  the  use  of  their  own  beautiful 
language,  which,  perhaps,  at  some  future  period,  the 
Portuguese  will  generally  adopt.  This  would  greatly 
facilitate  the  union  of  the  two  countries,  hitherto  kept 
asunder  by  the  natural  waywardness  of  mankind. 

I had  not  been  seated  long  before  the  blazing  pile,  when 
a fellow,  mounted  on  a fine  spirited  horse,  dashed  from  the 
stables  through  the  passage  into  the  kitchen,  where  he 
commenced  displaying  his  horsemanship,  by  causing  the 
animal  to  wheel  about  with  the  velocity  of  a millstone,  to 
the  great  danger  of  everybody  in  the  apartment.  He  then 
galloped  out  upon  the  plain,  and  after  half  an  hour's  absence 
returned,  and  having  placed  his  horse  once  more  in  the 
stable,  came  and  seated  himself  next  to  me,  to  whom  he 
commenced  talking  in  a gibberish  of  which  I understood  very 
little,  but  which  he  intended  for  French.  He  was  half 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


75 


intoxicated,  and  soon  became  three  parts  so,  by  swallowing 
glass  after  glass  of  aguardiente.  Finding  that  I made  him 
no  answer,  he  directed  his  discourse  to  one  of  the  contra- 
bandistas,  to  whom  he  talked  in  bad  Spanish.  The  latter 
either  did  not  or  would  not  understand  him;  but  at  last, 
losing  patience,  called  him  a drunkard,  and  told  him  to 
hold  his  tongue.  The  fellow,  enraged  at  this  contempt, 
flung  the  glass  out  of  which  he  was  drinking  at  the  Spaniard’s 
head,  who  sprang  up  like  a tiger,  and  unsheathing  instantly 
a snick  and  snee  knife,  made  an  upward  cut  at  the  fellow’s 
cheek,  and  would  have  infallibly  laid  it  open,  had  I not  pulled 
his  arm  down  just  in  time  to  prevent  worse  effects  than  a 
scratch  above  the  lower  jawbone,  which,  however,  drew  blood. 

The  smuggler’s  companions  interfered,  and  with  much 
difficulty  led  him  off  to  a small  apartment  in  the  rear  of  the 
house,  where  they  slept,  and  kept  the  furniture  of  their 
mules.  The  drunkard  then  commenced  singing,  or  rather 
yelling,  the  Marseillois  hymn;  and  after  having  annoyed 
every  one  for  nearly  an  hour,  was  persuaded  to  mount  his 
horse  and  depart,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  neighbours. 
He  was  a pig  merchant  of  the  vicinity,  but  had  formerly 
been  a trooper  in  the  army  of  Napoleon,  where,  I suppose, 
like  the  drunken  coachman  of  Evora,  he  had  picked  up  his 
French  and  his  habits  of  intoxication. 

From  Estremoz  to  Elvas  the  distance  is  six  leagues. 
I started  at  nine  next  morning;  the  first  part  of  the  way  lay 
through  an  enclosed  country,  but  we  soon  emerged  upon 
wild  bleak  downs,  over  which  the  wind,  which  still  pursued 
us,  howled  most  mournfully.  We  met  no  one  on  the  route; 
and  the  scene  was  desolate  in  the  extreme;  the  heaven  was 
of  a dark  grey,  through  which  no  glimpse  of  the  sun  was  to  be 
perceived.  Before  us,  at  a great  distance,  on  an  elevated 
ground,  rose  a tower — the  only  object  which  broke  the 
monotony  of  the  waste.  In  about  two  hours  from  the  time 
when  we  first  discovered  it,  we  reached  a fountain,  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  on  which  it  stood;  the  water,  which  gushed 
into  a long  stone  trough,  was  beautifully  clear  and  transpar- 
ent, and  we  stopped  here  to  water  the  animals. 

Having  dismounted,  I left  the  guide,  and  proceeded  to 
ascend  the  hill  on  which  the  tower  stood.  Though  the  ascent 
was  very  gentle  I did  not  accomplish  it  without  difficulty; 
the  ground  was  covered  with  sharp  stones,  which,  in  two  or 
three  instances,  cut  through  my  boots  and  wounded  my  feet; 
and  the  distance  was  much  greater  than  I had  expected. 
I at  last  arrived  at  the  ruin,  for  such  it  was.  I found  it  had 
been  one  of  those  watch  towers  or  small  fortresses  called  in 
Portuguese  atalaias  ; it  was  square,  and  surrounded  by  a 
wall,  broken  down  in  many  places.  The  tower  itself  had 


76 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


no  door,  the  lower  part  being  of  solid  stone  work;  but  on 
one  side  were  crevices  at  intervals  between  the  stones, 
for  the  purpose  of  placing  the  feet,  and  up  this  rude  staircase 
I climbed  to  a small  apartment,  about  five  feet  square,  from 
which  the  top  had  fallen.  It  commanded  an  extensive  view 
from  all  sides,  and  had  evidently  been  built  for  the  accom- 
modation of  those  whose  business  it  was  to  keep  watch  on 
the  frontier,  and  at  the  appearance  of  an  enemy  to  alarm  the 
country  by  signals — probably  by  a fire.  Resolute  men 
might  have  defended  themselves  in  this  little  fastness  against 
many  assailants,  who  must  have  been  completely  exposed 
to  their  arrows  or  musketry  in  the  ascent. 

Being  about  to  leave  the  place,  I heard  a strange  cry 
behind  a part  of  the  wall  which  I had  not  visited,  and 
hastening  thither,  I found  a miserable  object  in  rags,  seated 
upon  a stone.  It  was  a maniac — a man  about  thirty  years 
of  age,  and  I believe  deaf  and  dumb;  there  he  sat,  gibbering 
and  mowing,  and  distorting  his  wild  features  into  various 
dreadful  appearances.  There  wanted  nothing  but  this 
object  to  render  the  scene  complete;  banditti  amongst  such 
melancholy  desolation  would  have  been  by  no  means  so 
much  in  keeping.  But  the  maniac,  on  his  stone,  in  the  rear 
of  the  wind-beaten  ruin,  overlooking  the  blasted  heath,  above 
which  scowled  the  leaden  heaven,  presented  such  a picture 
of  gloom  and  misery  as  I believe  neither  painter  nor  poet  ever 
conceived  in  the  saddest  of  their  musings.  This  is  not  the  first 
instance  in  which  it  has  been  my  lot  to  verify  the  wisdom 
of  the  saying,  that  truth  is  sometimes  wilder  than  fiction. 

I remounted  my  mule,  and  proceeded  till,  on  the  top  of 
another  hill,  my  guide  suddenly  exclaimed,  “ there  is  Elvas.” 
I looked  in  the  direction  in  which  he  pointed,  and  beheld  a 
town  perched  on  the  top  of  a lofty  hill.  On  the  other  side  of 
a deep  valley  towards  the  left  rose  another  hill,  much  higher, 
on  the  top  of  which  is  the  celebrated  fort  of  Elvas,  believed 
to  be  the  strongest  place  in  Portugal.  Through  the  opening 
between  the  fort  and  the  town,  but  in  the  background  and 
far  in  Spain,  I discerned  the  misty  sides  and  cloudy  head  of  a 
stately  mountain,  which  I afterwards  learned  was  Albu- 
querque, one  of  the  loftiest  of  Estremadura. 

We  now  got  into  a cultivated  country,  and  following  the 
road,  which  wound  amongst  hedge-rows,  we  arrived  at  a 
place  where  the  ground  began  gradually  to  shelve  down. 
Here,  on  the  right,  was  the  commencement  of  an  aqueduct 
by  means  of  which  the  town  on  the  opposite  hill  was  supplied ; 
it  was  at  this  point  scarcely  two  feet  in  altitude,  but,  as  we 
descended,  it  became  higher  and  higher,  and  its  proportions 
more  colossal.  Near  the  bottom  of  the  valley  it  took  a turn 
to  the  left,  bestriding  the  road  with  one  of  its  arches,  I 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


77 


looked  up,  after  passing  under  it;  the  water  must  have  been 
flowing  near  a hundred  feet  above  my  head,  and  I was  filled 
with  wonder  at  the  immensity  of  the  structure  which 
conveyed  it.  There  was,  however,  one  feature  which  was  no 
slight  drawback  to  its  pretensions  to  grandeur  and  magnifi- 
cence ; the  water  was  supported  not  by  gigantic  single  arches, 
like  those  of  the  aqueduct  of  Lisbon,  which  stalk  over  the 
valley  like  legs  of  Titans,  but  by  three  layers  of  arches, 
which,  like  three  distinct  aqueducts,  rise  above  each  other. 
The  expense  and  labour  necessary  for  the  erection  of  such  a 
structure  must  have  been  enormous;  and,  when  we  reflect 
with  what  comparative  ease  modern  art  would  confer  the  same 
advantage,  we  cannot  help  congratulating  ourselves  that  we 
live  in  times  when  it  is  not  necessary  to  exhaust  the  wealth  of  a 
province  to  supply  a town  on  a hill  with  one  of  the  first  neces- 
saries of  existence. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Elvas  — Extraordinary  Longevity — The  English  Nation — Portuguese 

Ingratitude — Illiberality — Fortifications — Spanish  Beggar — Badaj oz 

— The  Custom  House. 

Arrived  at  the  gate  of  Elvas,  an  officer  came  out  of  a kind 
of  guard  house,  and,  having  asked  me  some  questions, 
despatched  a soldier  with  me  to  the  police  office,  that  my 
passport  might  be  visaed,  as  upon  the  frontier  they  are  much 
more  particular  with  respect  to  passports  than  in  other  parts. 
This  matter  having  been  settled,  I entered  an  hostelry  near 
the  same  gate,  which  had  been  recommended  to  me  by 
my  host  at  Yendas  Novas,  and  which  was  kept  by  a 
person  of  the  name  of  Joze  Rosado.  It  was  the  best  in  the 
town,  though,  for  convenience  and  accommodation,  inferior 
to  a hedge  alehouse  in  England.  The  cold  still  pursued  me, 
and  I was  glad  to  take  refuge  in  an  inner  kitchen,  which, 
when  the  door  was  not  open,  was  only  lighted  by  a fire 
burning  somewhat  dimly  on  the  hearth.  An  elderly  female 
sat  beside  it  in  her  chair,  telling  her  beads:  there  was  some- 
thing singular  and  extraordinary  in  her  look,  as  well  as  I 
could  discern  by  the  imperfect  light  of  the  apartment.  I 
put  a few  unimportant  questions  to  her,  to  which  she  replied, 
but  seemed  to  be  afflicted  to  a slight  degree  with  deafness. 
Her  hair  was  becoming  grey,  and  I said  that  I believed  she 
was  older  than  myself,  but  that  I was  confident  she  had  less 
snow  on  her  head. 

f‘  How  old  may  you  be,  cavalier?  ” said  she,  giving  me 


78 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


that  title  which  in  Spain  is  generally  used  when  an  extra- 
ordinary degree  of  respect  is  wished  to  be  exhibited.  I 
answered  that  I was  near  thirty.  “ Then,”  said  she,  “ you 
were  right  in  supposing  that  I am  older  than  yourself;  I 
am  older  than  your  mother,  or  your  mother’s  mother:  it  is 
more  than  a hundred  years  since  I was  a girl,  and  sported 
with  the  daughters  of  the  town  on  the  hillside.”  “ In  that 
case,”  said  I,  7 you  doubtless  remember  the  earthquake.” 
“ Yes,”  she  replied,  “ if  there  is  any  occurrence  in  my  life 
that  I remember,  it  is  that:  I was  in  the  church  of  Elvas  at 
the  moment,  hearing  the  mass  of  the  king,  and  the  priest 
fell  on  the  ground,  and  let  fall  the  Host  from  his  hands.  I 
shall  never  forget  how  the  earth  shook;  it  made  us  all  sick; 
and  the  houses  and  walls  reeled  like  drunkards.  Since  that 
happened  I have  seen  fourscore  years  pass  by  me,  yet  I was 
older  then  than  you  are  now.” 

I looked  with  wonder  at  this  surprising  female,  and  could 
scarcely  believe  her  words.  I was,  however,  assured  that 
she  was  in  fact  upwards  of  a hundred  and  ten  years  of  age, 
and  was  considered  the  oldest  person  in  Portugal.  She  still 
retained  the  use  of  her  faculties  in  as  full  a degree  as  the 
generality  of  people  who  have  scarcely  attained  the  half  of 
her  age.  She  was  related  to  the  people  of  the  house. 

As  the  night  advanced,  several  persons  entered  for  the 
purpose  of  enjoying  the  comfort  of  the  fire  and  for  the  sake 
of  conversation,  for  the  house  was  a kind  of  news  room, 
where  the  principal  speaker  was  the  host,  a man  of  some 
shrewdness  and  experience,  who  had  served  as  a soldier  in 
the  British  army.  Amongst  others  was  the  officer  jvho 
commanded  at  the  gate.  After  a few  observations,  this 
gentleman,  who  was  a good-looking  young  man  of  five-and- 
twenty,  began  to  burst  forth  in  violent  declamation  against 
the  English  nation  and  government,  who,  he  said,  had  at  all 
times  proved  themselves  selfish  and  deceitful,  but  that  their 
present  conduct  in  respect  to  Spain  was  particularly  in- 
famous, for  though  it  was  in  their  power  to  put  an  end  to  the 
war  at  once,,  by  sending  a large  army  thither,  they  preferred 
sending  a handful  of  troops,  in  order  that  the  war  might  be 
prolonged,  for  no  other  reason  than  that  it  was  of  advantage 
to  them.  Having  paid  him  an  ironical  compliment  for  his 
politeness  and  urbanity,  I asked  whether  he  reckoned 
amongst  the  selfish  actions  of  the  English  government  and 
nation,  their  having  expended  hundreds  of  millions  of  pounds 
sterling,  and  an  ocean  of  precious  blood,  in  fighting  the 
battles  of  Spain  and  Portugal  against  Napoleon.  “ Surely,” 
said  I,  “ the  fort  of  Elvas  above  our  heads,  and  still  more  the 
castle  of  Badajoz  over  the  water,  speak  volumes  respecting 
English  selfishness,  and  must,  every  time  you  view  them, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


79 


confirm  you  in  the  opinion  which  you  have  just  expressed. 
And  then,  with  respect  to  the  present  combat  in  Spain,  the 
gratitude  which  that  country  evinced  to  England  after  the 
French,  by  means  of  English  armies,  had  been  expelled, — 
gratitude  evinced  by  discouraging  the  trade  of  England  on  all 
occasions,  and  by  offering  up  masses  in  thanksgiving  when 
the  English  heretics  quitted  the  Spanish  shores, — ought  now 
to  induce  England  to  exhaust  and  ruin  herself,  for  the  sake 
of  hunting  Don  Carlos  out  of  his  mountains.  In  deference 
to  your  superior  judgment,”  continued  I to  the  officer,  “ I 
will  endeavour  to  believe  that  it  Would  be  for  the  advantage 
of  England  were  the  war  prolonged  for  an  indefinite  period; 
nevertheless,  you  would  do  me  a particular  favour  by  ex- 
plaining by  what  process  in  chemistry  blood  shed  in  Spain 
will  find  its  way  into  the  English  treasury  in  the  shape  of 
gold” 

As  he  was  not  ready  with  his  answer,  I took  up  a plate 
of  fruit  which  stood  on  the  table  beside  me,  and  said, 
“ What  do  you  call  these  fruits?  ” “ Pomegranates  and 

bolotas,”  he  replied.  “ Right,”  said  I,  “ a home-bred 
Englishman  could  not  have  given  me  that  answer;  yet 
he  is  as  much  acquainted  with  pomegranates  and  bolotas 
as  your  lordship  is  with  the  line  of  conduct  which  it  is 
incumbent  upon  England  to  pursue  in  her  foreign  and 
domestic  policy.” 

This  answer  of  mine,  I confess,  was  not  that  of  a 
Christian,  and  proved  to  me  how  much  of  the  leaven  of  the 
ancient  man  still  pervaded  me;  yet  I must  be  permitted  to 
add,  that  I believe  no  other  provocation  would  have  elicited 
from  me  a reply  so  full  of  angry  feeling:  but  I could  not 
command  myself  when  I heard  my  own  glorious  land 
traduced  in  this  unmerited  manner.  By  whom?  A 
Portuguese!  A native  of  a country  which  has  been  twice 
liberated  from  horrid  and  detestable  thraldom  by  the  hands 
of  Englishmen.  But  for  Wellington  and  his  heroes,  Portugal 
would  have  been  French  at  this  day;  but  for  Napier  and  his 
mariners,  Miguel  would  now  be  lording  it  in  Lisbon.  To 
return,  however,  to  the  officer;  every  one  laughed  at  him, 
and  he  presently  went  away. 

The  next  day  I became  acquainted  with  a respectable 
tradesman  of  the  name  of  Almeida,  a man  of  talent,  though 
rather  rough  in  his  manners.  He  expressed  great  abhor- 
rence of  the  papal  system,  which  had  so  long  spread  a 
darkness  like  that  of  death  over  his  unfortunate  country, 
and  I had  no  sooner  informed  him  that  I had  brought  with 
me  a certain  quantity  of  Testaments,  which  it  was  my  inten- 
tion to  leave  for  sale  at  Elvas,  than  he  expressed  a great 
desire  to  undertake  the  charge,  and  said  that  he  would  do 


80 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  utmost  in  his  power  to  procure  a sale  for  them  amongst 
his  numerous  customers.  Upon  showing  him  a copy,  I 
remarked,  your  name  is  upon  the  title  page;  the  Portuguese 
version  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  circulated  by  the  Bible 
Society,  having  been  executed  by  a Protestant  of  the 
name  of  Almeida,  and  first  published  in  the  year  1712; 
whereupon  he  smiled,  and  observed  that  he  esteemed  it 
an  honour  to  be  connected  in  name  at  least  with  such  a 
man.  He  scoffed  at  the  idea  of  receiving  any  remunera- 
tion, and  assured  me  that  the  feeling  of  being  permitted 
to  co-operate  in  so  holy  and  useful  a cause  as  the  circulation 
of  the  Scriptures  was  quite  a sufficient  reward. 

After  having  accomplished  this  matter,  I proceeded 
to  survey  the  environs  of  the  place,  and  strolled  up  the 
hill  to  the  fort  on  the  north  side  of  the  town.  The  lower 
part  of  the  hill  is  planted  with  azinheiras,  which  give  it  a 
picturesque  appearance,  and  at  the  bottom  is  a small 
brook,  which  I crossed  by  means  of  stepping  stones. 
Arrived  at  the  gate  of  the  fort,  I was  stopped  by  the  sentry, 
who,  however,  civilly  told  me,  that  if  I sent  in  my  name 
to  the  commanding  officer  he  would  make  no  objection 
to  my  visiting  the  interior.  I accordingly  sent  in  my  card 
by  a soldier  who  was  lounging  about,  and,  sitting  down  on 
a stone,  waited  his  return.  He  presently  appeared,  and 
inquired  whether  I was  an  Englishman;  to  which,  having 
replied  in  the  affirmative,  he  said,  “ In  that  case,  sir,  you 
cannot  enter;  indeed,  it  is  not  the  custom  to  permit  any 
foreigners  to  visit  the  fort.”  I answered  that  it  was 
perfectly  indifferent  to  me  whether  I visited  it  or  not; 
and,  having  taken  a survey  of  Badajoz  from  the  eastern 
side  of  the  hill,  descended  by  the  way  I came. 

This  is  one  of  the  beneficial  results  of  protecting  a nation 
and  squandering  blood  and  treasure  in  its  defence.  The 
English,  who  have  never  been  at  war  with  Portugal,  who 
have  fought  for  its  independence  on  land  and  sea,  and  always 
with  success,  who  have  forced  themselves  by  a treaty  of 
commerce  to  drink  its  coarse  and  filthy  wines,  which  no 
other  nation  cares  to  taste,  are  the  most  unpopular  people 
who  visit  Portugal.  The  French  have  ravaged  the  country 
with  fire  and  sword,  and  shed  the  blood  of  its  sons  like 
water;  the  French  buy  not  its  fruits  and  loathe  its  wines, 
yet  there  is  no  bad  spirit  in  Portugal  towards  the  French. 
The  reason  of  this  is  no  mystery;  it  is  the  nature  not  of 
the  Portuguese  only,  but  of  corrupt  and  unregenerate  man, 
to  dislike  his  benefactors,  who,  by  conferring  benefits 
upon  him,  mortify  in  the  most  generous  manner  his 
miserable  vanity. 

There  is  no  country  in  which  the  English  are  so  popular 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


81 


as  in  France;  but,  though  the  French  have  been  frequently 
roughly  handled  by  the  English,  and  have  seen  their 
capital  occupied  by  an  English  army,  they  have  never  been 
subjected  to  the  supposed  ignominy  of  receiving  assistance 
from  them. 

The  fortifications  of  Elvas  are  models  of  their  kind, 
and,  at  the  first  view,  it  would  seem  that  the  town,  if 
well  garrisoned,  might  bid  defiance  to  any  hostile  power; 
but  it  has  its  weak  point:  the  western  side  is  commanded 
by  a hill,  at  the  distance  of  half  a mile,  from  which  an 
experienced  general  would  cannonade  it,  and  probably 
with  success.  It  is  the  last  town  in  this  part  of  Portugal, 
the  distance  to  the  Spanish  frontier  being  barely  two 
leagues.  It  was  evidently  built  as  a rival  to  Badajoz, 
upon  which  it  looks  down  from  its  height  across  a sandy 
plain  and  over  the  sullen  waters  of  the  Guadiana;  but,  though 
a strong  town,  it  can  scarcely  be  called  a defence  to  the 
frontier,  which  is  open  on  all  sides,  so  that  there  would 
not  be  the  slightest  necessity  for  an  invading  army  to 
approach  within  a dozen  leagues  of  its  walls,  should  it  be 
disposed  to  avoid  them.  Its  fortifications  are  so  extensive 
that  ten  thousand  men  at  least  would  be  required  to  man 
them,  who,  in  the  event  of  an  invasion,  might  be  far  better 
employed  in  meeting  the  enemy  in  the  open  field.  The 
French,  during  their  occupation  of  Portugal,  kept  a small 
force  in  this  place,  who,  at  the  approach  of  the  British, 
retreated  to  the  fort,  where  they  shortly  after  capitulated. 

Having  nothing  farther  to  detain  me  at  Elvas,  I pro- 
ceeded to  cross  the  frontier  into  Spain.  My  idiot  guide 
was  on  his  way  back  to  Aldea  Gallega;  and,  on  the  fifth 
of  January,  I mounted  a sorry  mule  without  bridle  or 
stirrups,  which  I guided  by  a species  of  halter,  and  followed 
by  a lad  who  was  to  attend  me  on  another,  I spurred 
down  the  hill  of  Elvas  to  the  plain,  eager  to  arrive  in  old 
chivalrous  romantic  Spain.  But  I soon  found  that  I 
had  no  need  to  quicken  the  beast  which  bore  me,  for  though 
covered  with  sores,  wall-eyed,  and  with  a kind  of  halt  in 
its  gait,  it  cantered  along  like  the  wind. 

In  little  more  than  half  an  hour  we  arrived  at  a brook, 
whose  waters  ran  vigorously  between  steep  banks.  A 
man  who  was  standing  on  the  side  directed  me  to  the  ford 
in  the  squeaking  dialect  of  Portugal;  but  whilst  I was 
yet  splashing  through  the  water,  a voice  from  the  other 
bank  hailed  me,  in  the  magnificent  language  of  Spain,  in 
this  guise:  “ 0 Senor  Caballero , que  me  de  usted  una  limosna 
por  amor  de  Dios , una  limosnita  para  que  io  me  compre  un 
traguillo  de  vino  tintoJ}  (Charity,  Sir  Cavalier,  for  the  love 
of  God,  bestow  an  alms  upon  me,  that  I may  purchase  a 


82 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


mouthful  of  red  wine).  In  a moment  I was  on  Spanish 
ground,  as  the  brook,  which  is  called  Acaia,  is  the  boundary 
here  of  the  two  kingdoms,  and  having  flung  the  beggar 
a small  piece  of  silver,  I cried  in  ecstasy  “ Santiago  y cierra 
Espana  ! ” and  scoured  on  my  way  with  more  speed  than 
before,  paying,  as  Gil  Bias  says,  little  heed  to  the  torrent 
of  blessings  which  the  mendicant  poured  forth  in  my  rear: 
yet  never  was  charity  more  unwisely  bestowed,  for  I was 
subsequently  informed  that  the  fellow  was  a confirmed 
drunkard,  who  took  his  station  every  morning  at  the  ford, 
where  he  remained  the  whole  day  for  the  purpose  of  extort- 
ing money  from  the  passengers,  which  he  regularly  spent 
every  night  in  the  wine-shops  of  Badajoz.  To  those  who 
gave  him  money  he  returned  blessings,  and  to  those  who 
refused,  curses;  being  equally  skilled  and  fluent  in  the 
use  of  either. 

Badajoz  was  now  in  view,  at  the  distance  of  little 
more  than  half  a league.  We  soon  took  a turn  to  the 
left,  towards  a bridge  of  many  arches  across  the  Guadiana, 
which,  though  so  famed  in  song  and  ballad,  is  a very  un- 
picturesque  stream,  shallow  and  sluggish,  though  tolerably 
wide;  its  banks  were  white  with  linen  which  the  washer- 
women had  spread  out  to  dry  in  the  sun,  which  was  shining 
brightly;  I heard  their  singing  at  a great  distance,  and 
the  theme  seemed  to  be  the  praises  of  the  river  where  they 
were  toiling,  for  as  I approached,  I could  distinguish 
Guadiana,  Guadiana,  which  reverberated  far  and  wide, 
pronounced  by  the  clear  and  strong  voices  of  many  a dark- 
cheeked maid  and  matron.  I thought  there  was  some 
analogy  between  their  employment  and  my  own:  I was 

about  to  tan  my  northern  complexion  by  exposing  myself 
to  the  hot  sun  of  Spain,  in  the  humble  hope  of  being  able 
to  cleanse  some  of  the  foul  stains  of  Popery  from  the  minds 
of  its  children,  with  whom  I had  little  acquaintance,  whilst 
they  were  bronzing  themselves  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
in  order  to  make  white  the  garments  of  strangers:  the 
words  of  an  eastern  poet  returned  forcibly  to  my  mind. 

“ I’ll  weary  myself  each  night  and  each  day, 

To  aid  my  unfortunate  brothers  ; 

As  the  laundress  tans  her  own  face  in  the  ray, 

To  cleanse  the  garments  of  others.” 

Having  crossed  the  bridge,  we  arrived  at  the  northern 
gate,  when  out  rushed  from  a species  of  sentry  box  a fellow 
wearing  on  his  head  a high-peaked  Andalusian  hat,  with 
his  figure  wrapped  up  in  one  of  those  immense  cloaks 
so  well  known  to  those  who  have  travelled  in  Spain,  and 


83 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

which  none  but  a Spaniard  can  wear  in  a becoming  manner: 
without  saying  a word,  he  laid  hold  of  the  halter  of  the 
mule,  and  began  to  lead  it  through  the  gate  up  a dirty 
street,  crowded  with  long-cloaked  people  like  himself. 
I asked  him  what  he  meant,  but  he  deigned  not  to  return 
an  answer,  the  boy,  however,  who  waited  upon  me  said 
that  it  was  one  of  "the  gate-keepers,  and  that  he  was  con- 
ducting us  to  the  Custom  House  or  Alfandega,  where  the 
baggage  would  be  examined.  Having  arrived  there,  the 
fellow,  who  still  maintained  a dogged  silence,  began  to 
pull  the  trunks  oh  the  sumpter  mule,  and  commenced 
uncording  them.  I was  about  to  give  him  a severe  reproof 
for  his  brutality,  but  before  I could  open  my  mouth  a stout 
elderly  personage  appeared  at  the  door,  who  I soon  found 
was  the  principal  officer.  He  looked  at  me  for  a moment 
and  then  asked  me,  in  the  English  language,  if  I was  an 
Englishman.  On  my  replying  in  the  affirmative,  he  de- 
manded of  the  fellow  how  he  dared  to  have  the  insolence 
to  touch  the  baggage  without  orders,  and  sternly  bade 
him  cord  up  the  trunks  again  and  place  them  on  the  mule, 
which  he  performed  without  uttering  a word.  The  gentle- 
man then  asked  what  the  trunks  contained:  I answered 

clothes  and  linen;  when  he  begged  pardon  for  the  insolence 
of  the  subordinate,  and  informed  him  that  I was  at  liberty 
to  proceed  where  I thought  proper.  I thanked  him  for 
his  exceeding  politeness,  and,  under  guidance  of  the  boy, 
made  the  best  of  my  way  to  the  Inn  of  the  Three  Nations, 
to  which  I had  been  recommended  at  Elvas. 


CHAPTER  IX 

Badajoz — Antonio  the  Gypsy — Antonio’s  Proposal — The  Proposal  Ac- 
cepted— Gypsy  Breakfast — Departure  from  Badajoz — The  Gypsy 
Donkey — Merida — The  Ruined  Wall — The  Crone — The  Land  of  the 
Moor — The  Black  Men — Life  in  the  Desert — The  Supper. 

I was  now  at  Badajoz  in  Spain,  a country  which  for  the 
next  four  years  was  destined  to  be  the  scene  of  my  labours: 
but  I will  not  anticipate.  The  neighbourhood  of  Badajoz 
did  not  prepossess  me  much  in  favour  of  the  country 
which  I had  just  entered;  it  consists  chiefly  of  brown  moors, 
which  bear  little  but  a species  of  brushwood,  called  in 
Spanish  carrasco  ; blue  mountains  are  however  seen  tower- 
ing up  in  the  far  distance,  which  relieve  the  scene  from 
the  monotony  which  would  otherwise  pervade  it. 

It  was  at  this  town  of  Badajoz,  the  capital  of  Estre- 


84 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


madura,  that  I first  fell  in  with  those  singular  people, 
the  Zincali,  Gitanos,  or  Spanish  gypsies.  It  was  here  I 
met  with  the  wild  Paco,  the  man  with  the  withered  arm, 
who  wielded  the  cachas  ( shears ) with  his  left  hand;  his 
shrewd  wife,  Antonia,  skilled  in  hokkano  baro,  or  the 
great  trick;  the  fierce  gypsy,  Antonio  Lopez,  their  father- 
in-law;  and  many  other  almost  equally  singular  individuals 
of  the  Errate,  or  gypsy  blood.  It  was  here  that  I first 
preached  the  gospel  to  the  gypsy  people,  and  commenced 
that  translation  of  the  New  Testament  in  the  Spanish 
gypsy  tongue,  a portion  of  which  I subsequently  printed 
at  Madrid. 

After  a stay  of  three  weeks  at  Badajoz,  I prepared  to 
depart  for  Madrid:  late  one  afternoon,  as  I was  arranging 
my  scanty  baggage,  the  gypsy  Antonio  entered  my  apart- 
ment, dressed  in  his  zamarra  and  high-peaked  Andalusian 
hat. 

Antonio. — Good  evening,  brother;  they  tell  me  that 
on  the  callicaste  ( day  after  to-morrow)  you  intend  to  set 
out  for  Madrilati. 

Myself. — Such  is  my  intention;  I can  stay  here  no 
longer. 

Antonio. — The  way  is  far  to  Madrilati:  there  are, 

moreover,  wars  in  the  land  and  many  chories  ( thieves ) 
walk  about;  are  you  not  afraid  to  journey? 

Myself. — I have  no  fears;  every  man  must  accomplish 
his  destiny:  what  befalls  my  body  or  soul  was  written  in 
a gabicote  (book)  a thousand  years  before  the  foundation 
of  the  world. 

Antonio. — I have  no  fears  myself,  brother;  the  dark 
night  is  the  same  to  me  as  the  fair  day,  and  the  wild 
carrascal  as  the  market-place  or  the  chardy  (fair);  I have 
got  the  bar  lachi  in  my  bosom,  the  precious  stone  to  which 
sticks  the  needle. 

Myself. — You  mean  the  loadstone,  I suppose.  Do 
you  believe  that  a lifeless  stone  can  preserve  you  from 
the  dangers  which  occasionally  threaten  your  life? 

Antonio. — Brother,  I am  fifty  years  old,  and  you  see 
me  standing  before  you  in  life  and  strength;  how  could 
that  be  unless  the  bar  lachi  had  power?  I have  been 
soldier  and  contrabandista,  and  I have  likewise  slain 
and  robbed  the  Busne.  The  bullets  of  the  Gabin6  (French) 
and  of  the  jara  canallis  (revenue  officers)  have  hissed  about 
my  ears  without  injuring  me,  for  I carried  the  bar  lachi. 
I have  twenty  times  done  that  which  by  Busnee  law  should 
have  brought  me  to  the  filimicha  (gallows),  yet  my  neck 
has  never  yet  been  squeezed  by  the  cold  garrote.  Brother, 
I trust  in  the  bar  lachi,  like  the  Galore  of  old:  were  I in 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


85 


the  midst  of  the  gulph  of  Bombardo  (Lyons),  without  a 
plank  to  float  upon,  I should  feel  no  fear;  for  if  I carried 
the  precious  stone,  it  would  bring  me  safe  to  shore:  the 
bar  lachi  has  power,  brother. 

Myself . — I shall  not  dispute  the  matter  with  you, 
more  especially  as  I am  about  to  depart  from  Badajoz: 

I must  speedily  bid  you  farewell,  and  we  shall  see  each 
other  no  more. 

Antonio. — Brother,  do  you  know  what  brings  me  hither? 

Myself. — I cannot  tell,  unless  it  be  to  wish  me  a happy 
journey:  I am  not  gypsy  enough  to  interpret  the  thoughts 
of  other  people. 

Antonio. — All  last  night  I lay  awake,  thinking  of  the 
affairs  of  Egypt;  and  when  I arose  in  the  morning  I took 
the  bar  lachi  from  my  bosom,  and  scraping  it  with  a knife, 
swallowed  some  of  the  dust  in  aguardiente,  as  I am  in  the 
habit  of  doing  when  I have  made  up  my  mind;  and  I said 
to  myself,  I am  wanted  on  the  frontiers  of  Gastumba 
(Castile)  on  a certain  matter.  The  strange  Caloro  is  about 
to  proceed  to  Madrilati;  the  journey  is  long,  and  he  may 
fall  into  evil  hands,  peradventure  into  those  of  his  own 
blood;  for  let  me  tell  you,  brother,  the  Cales  are  leaving 
their  towns  and  villages,  and  forming  themselves  into  troops 
to  plunder  the  Busn6,  for  there  is  now  but  little  law  in  the 
land,  and  now  or  never  is  the  time  for  the  Calore  to  become 
once  more  what  they  were  in  former  times;  so  I said, 
the  strange  Caloro  may  fall  into  the  hands  of  his  own  blood 
and  be  ill-treated  by  them,  which  were  shame:  I will 

therefore  go  with  him  through  the  Ghim  del  Manro  (Estre- 
madura)  as  far  as  the  frontiers  of  Gastumba,  and  upon 
the  frontiers  of  Castumba  I will  leave  the  London  Caloro 
to  find  his  own  way  to  Madrilati,  for  there  is  less  danger 
in  Gastumba  than  in  the  Chim  del  Manro,  and  I will  then 
betake  me  to  the  affairs  of  Egypt  which  call  me  from  hence. 

Myself. — This  is  a very  hopeful  plan  of  yours,  my 
friend;  and  in  what  manner  do  you  propose  that  we  shall 
travel? 

Antonio. — I will  tell  you,  brother;  I have  a gras  in  the 
stall,  even  the  one  which  I purchased  at  Oliven^as,  as  I 
told  you  on  a former  occasion;  it  is  good  and  fleet,  and 
cost  me,  who  am  a gypsy,  fifty  chule  (dollars);  upon  that 
gras  you  shall  ride.  As  for  myself,  I will  journey  upon  the 
macho. 

Myself . — Before  I answer  you,  I shall  wish  you  to 
inform  me  what  business  it  is  which  renders  your  presence 
necessary  in  Castumba;  your  son-in-law,  Paco,  told  me 
that  it  was  no  longer  the  custom  of  the  gypsies  to  wander. 

Antonio . — It  is  an  affair  of  Egypt,  brother,  and  I shall 


86 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


not  acquaint  you  with  it;  peradventure  it  relates  to  a horse 
or  an  ass,  or  peradventure  it  relates  to  a mule  or  a macho ; 
it  does  not  relate  to  yourself,  therefore  I advise  you  not  to 
inquire  about  it — Dosta  {enough).  With  respect  to  my  offer, 
you  are  free  to  decline  it;  there  is  a drungruje  ( royal  road) 
between  here  and  Madrilati,  and  you  can  travel  it  in  the 
birdoche  {stage-coach)  or  with  the  dromale  {muleteers) ; but 
I tell  you,  as  a brother,  that  there  are  chories  upon  the  drun, 
and  some  of  them  are  of  the  Errate. 

Certainly  few  people  in  my  situation  would  have  accepted 
the  offer  of  this  singular  gypsy.  It  was  not,  however, 
without  its  allurements  for  me;  I was  fond  of  adventure, 
and  what  more  ready  means  of  gratifying  my  love  of  it  than 
by  putting  myself  under  the  hands  of  such  a guide.  There 
are  many  who  would  have  been  afraid  of  treachery,  but  I 
had  no  fears  on  this  point,  as  I did  not  believe  that  the  fellow 
harboured  the  slightest  ill  intention  towards  me;  I saw  that 
he  was  fully  convinced  that  I was  one  of  the  Errate,  and  his 
affection  for  his  own  race,  and  his  hatred  for  the  Busne,  were 
his  strongest  characteristics.  I wished,  moreover,  to  lay 
hold  of  every  opportunity  of  making  myself  acquainted  with 
the  ways  of  the  Spanish  gypsies,  and  an  excellent  one  here 
presented  itself  on  my  first  entrance  into  Spain.  In  a word, 
I determined  to  accompany  the  gypsy.  “ I will  go  with 
you,”  I exclaimed;  “ as  for  my  baggage,  I will  despatch  it 
to  Madrid  by  the  birdoche.”  “ Do  so,  brother,”  he  replied, 
“ and  the  gras  will  go  lighter.  Baggage,  indeed! — what 
need  of  baggage  have  you?  How  the  Busne  on  the  road 
would  laugh  if  they  saw  two  Cales  with  baggage  behind 
them.” 

During  my  stay  at  Badajoz,  I had  but  little  intercourse 
with  the  Spaniards,  my  time  being  chiefly  devoted  to  the 
gypsies,  with  whom,  from  long  intercourse  with  various 
sections  of  their  race  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  I felt 
myself  much  more  at  home  than  with  the  silent,  reserved 
men  of  Spain,  with  whom  a foreigner  might  mingle  for  half 
a century  without  having  half  a dozen  words  addressed  to 
him,  unless  he  himself  made  the  first  advances  to  in- 
timacy, which,  after  ail,  might  be  rejected  with  a shrug  and 
a no  intendo  ; for,  among  the  many  deeply  rooted  prejudices 
of  these  people,  is  the  strange  idea  that  no  foreigner  can 
speak  their  language;  an  idea  to  which  they  will  still  cling 
though  they  hear  him  conversing  with  perfect  ease;  for  in 
that  case  the  utmost  that  they  will  concede  to  his  attain- 
ments is,  Habla  quatro  palabras  y nada  mas  (he  can  speak 
four  words,  and  no  more). 

Early  one  morning,  before  sunrise,  I found  myself  at 
the  house  of  Antonio ; it  was  a small  mean  building,  situated 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


87 


in  a dirty  street.  The  morning  was  quite  dark;  the  street, 
however,  was  partially  illumined  by  a heap  of  lighted  straw, 
round  which  two  or  three  men  were  busily  engaged,  ap- 
parently holding  an  object  over  the  flames.  Presently  the 
gypsy’s  door  opened,  and  Antonio  made  his  appearance; 
and,  casting  his  eye  in  the  direction  of  the  light,  exclaimed, 
“ The  swine  have  killed  their  brother;  would  that  every 
Busno  was  served  as  yonder  hog  is.  Come  in,  brother,  and 
we  will  eat  the  heart  of  that  hog.”  I scarcely  understood 
his  words,  but,  following  him,  he  led  me  into  a low  room  in 
which  was  a brasero,  or  small  pan  full  of  lighted  charcoal; 
beside  it  was  a rude  table,  spread  with  a coarse  linen  cloth, 
upon  which  was  bread  and  a large  pipkin  full  of  a mess 
which  emitted  no  disagreeable  savour.  “ The  heart  of  the 
balichow  is  in  that  puchera,”  said  Antonio;  “ eat,  brother.” 
We  both  sat  down  and  ate,  Antonio  voraciously.  When  we 
had  concluded  he  arose: — “Have  you  got  your  li  ? ” he 
demanded.  “ Here  it  is,”  said  I,  showing  him  my  passport. 
“ Good,”  said  he,  “ you  may  want  it  ; I want  none,  my  pass- 
port is  the  bar  lachi.  Now  for  a glass  of  repani,  and  then  for 
the  road.” 

We  left  the  room,  the  door  of  which  he  locked,  hiding 
the  key  beneath  a loose  brick  in  a corner  of  the  passage. 
“ Go  into  the  street,  brother,  whilst  I fetch  the  caballerias 
from  the  stable.”  I obeyed  him.  The  sun  had  not  yet 
risen,  and  the  air  was  piercingly  cold;  the  grey  light,  how- 
ever, of  dawn  enabled  me  to  distinguish  objects  with  toler- 
able accuracy;  I soon  heard  the  clattering  of  the  animals’ 
feet,  and  Antonio  presently  stepped  forth  leading  the  horse 
by  the  bridle;  the  macho  followed  behind.  I looked  at  the 
horse  and  shrugged  my  shoulders:  as  far  as  I could  scan  it, 
it  appeared  the  most  uncouth  animal  I had  ever  beheld.  It 
was  of  a spectral  white,  short  in  the  body,  but  with  remark- 
ably long  legs.  I observed  that  it  was  particularly  high  in 
the  cruz  or  withers.  “ You  are  looking  at  the  grasti,”  said 
Antonio;  “ it  is  eighteen  years  old,  but  it  is  the  very  best  in 
the  Chim  del  Manro;  I have  long  had  my  eye  upon  it;  I 
bought  it  for  my  own  use  for  the  affairs  of  Egypt.  Mount, 
brother,  mount  and  let  us  leave  the  for  os — the  gate  is  about 
being  opened.”  ^ 

He  locked  the  door,  and  deposited  the  key  in  his  faja. 
In  less  than  a quarter  of  an  hour  we  had  left  the  town 
behind  us.  “ This  does  not  appear  to  be  a very  good  horse,” 
said  I to  Antonio,  as  we  proceeded  over  the  plain.  “ It  is 
with  difficulty  that  I can  make  him  move.” 

“ He  is  the  swiftest  horse  in  the  Chim  del  Manro,  brother,” 
said  Antonio;  “ at  the  gallop  and  at  the  speedy  trot  there  is 
no  one  to  match  him ; but  he  is  eighteen  years  old,  and  his 


88 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


joints  are  stiff,  especially  of  a morning;  but  let  him  once 
loecome  heated  and  the  genio  del  viejo  ( spirit  of  the  old  man) 
comes  upon  him  and  there  is  no  holding  him  in  with  bit  or 
bridle.  I bought  that  horse  for  the  affairs  of  Egypt, 
brother.” 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  a small  village  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  a high  lumpy  hill.  “ There  is  no  Galo  house  in  this 
place,”  said  Antonio;  “ we  will  therefore  go  to  the  posada 
of  the  Busne,  and  refresh  ourselves,  man  and  beast.”  We 
entered  the  kitchen  and  sat  down  at  the  boards,  calling  for 
wine  and  bread.  There  were  two  ill-looking  fellows  in  the 
kitchen,  smoking  cigars;  I said  something  to  Antonio  in  the 
Calo  language. 

“ What  is  that  I hear?  ” said  one  of  the  fellows,  who  was 
distinguished  by  an  immense  pair  of  moustaches.  “ What 
is  that  I hear?  is  it  in  Calo  that  you  are  speaking  before  me, 
and  I a Chalan  and  national?  Accursed  gypsy,  how  dare  you 
enter  this  posada  and  speak  before  me  in  that  speech? 
Is  it  not  forbidden  by  the  law  of  the  land  in  which  we  are, 
even  as  it  is  forbidden  for  a gypsy  to  enter  the  mercado? 
I tell  you  what,  friend,  if  I hear  another  word  of  Calo  come 
from  your  mouth,  I will  cudgel  your  bones  and  send  you 
flying  over  the  house-tops  with  a kick  of  my  foot.” 

“ You  would  do  right,”  said  his  companion;  “ the  in- 
solence of  these  gypsies  is  no  longer  to  be  borne.  When  I 
am  at  Merida  or  Badajoz  I go  to  the  mercado,  and  there  in 
a corner  stand  the  accursed  gypsies  jabbering  to  each  other 
in  a speech  which  I understand  not.  ‘ Gypsy  gentleman/ 
say  I to  one  of  them,  ‘ what  will  you  have  for  that  donkey?  ' 
‘ I will  have  ten  dollars  for  it,  Caballero  nacional,'  says  the 
gypsy;  ‘ it  is  the  best  donkey  in  all  Spain/  ‘ I should  like 
to  see  its  paces/  say  I.  ‘ That  you  shall,  most  valorous!  ’ 
says  the  gypsy,  and  jumping  upon  its  back,  he  puts  it  to  its 
paces,  first  of  all  whispering  something  into  its  ears  in  Calo, 
and  truly  the  paces  of  the  donkey  are  most  wonderful,  such 
as  I have  never  seen  before.  ‘ I think  it  will  just  suit  me/ 
and  after  looking  at  it  awhile,  I take  out  the  money  and  pay 
for  it.  ' I shall  go  to  my  house/  says  the  gypsy;  and  off 
he  runs.  ‘ I shall  go  to  my  village/  say  I,  and  I mount  the 
donkey.  * Varnonos/  say  I,  but  the  donkey  won't  move.  I 
give  him  a switch,  but  I don't  get  on  the  better  for  that. 
‘ How  is  this?  ' say  I,  and  I fall  to  spurring  him.  What 
happens  then,  brother?  The  wizard  no  sooner  feels  the 
prick  than  he  bucks  down,  and  flings  me  over  his  head  into 
the  mire.  I get  up  and  look  about  me;  there  stands  the 
donkey  staring  at  me,  and  there  stand  the  whole  gypsy 
canaille  squinting  at  me  with  their  filmy  eyes.  ‘ Where  is 
the  scamp  who  has  sold  me  this  piece  of  furniture?  ' I shout. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


89 


' He  is  gone  to  Granada,  Valorous/  says  one.  ‘ He  is  gone 
to  see  his  kindred  among  the  Moors/  says  another.  ‘ I just 

saw  him  running  over  the  field,  in  the  direction  of , with 

the  devil  close  behind  him/  says  a third.  In  a word,  I am 
tricked.  I wish  to  dispose  of  the  donkey;  no  one,  however, 
will  buy  him ; he  is  a Calo  donkey,  and  every  person  avoids 
him.  At  last  the  gypsies  offer  thirty  rials  for  him ; and  after 
much  chaffering  I am  glad  to  get  rid  of  him  at  two  dollars. 
It  is  all  a trick,  however;  he  returns  to  his  master,  and  the 
brotherhood  share  the  spoil  amongst  them.  All  which 
villainy  would  be  prevented,  in  my  opinion,  were  the  Calo 
language  not  spoken;  for  what  but  the  word  of  Calo  could 
have  induced  the  donkey  to  behave  in  such  an  unaccountable 
manner?  ” 

Both  seemed  perfectly  satisfied  with  the  justness  of  this 
conclusion,  and  continued  smoking  till  their  cigars  were 
burnt  to  stumps,  when  they  arose,  twitched  their  whiskers, 
looked  at  us  with  fierce  disdain,  and  dashing  the  tobacco-ends 
to  the  ground,  strode  out  of  the  apartment. 

“ Those  people  seem  no  friends  to  the  gypsies,”  said  I to 
x\ntonio,  when  the  two  bullies  had  departed,  “ nor  to  the 
Calo  language  either.” 

“ May  evil  glanders  seize  their  nostrils,”  said  Antonio; 
“ they  have  been  jonjabadoed  by  our  people.  However, 
brother,  you  did  wrong  to  speak  to  me  in  Calo,  in  a posada 
like  this;  it  is  a forbidden  language;  for,  as  I have  often 
told  you,  the  king  has  destroyed  the  law  of  the  Cal6s.  Let 
us  away,  brother,  or  those  j untunes  (sneaking  scoundrels) 
may  set  the  justicia  upon  us.” 

Towards  evening  we  drew  near  to  a large  town  or  village. 
“ That  is  Merida,”  said  Antonio,  “ formerly,  as  the  Busne 
say,  a mighty  city  of  the  Coraliai.  We  shall  stay  here 
to-night,  and  perhaps  for  a day  or  two,  for  I have  some  busi- 
ness of  Egypt  to  transact  in  this  place.  Now,  brother,  step 
aside  with  the  horse,  and  wait  for  me  beneath  yonder  wall. 
I must  go  before  and  see  in  what  condition  matters 
stand.” 

I dismounted  from  the  horse,  and  sat  down  on  a stone 
beneath  the  ruined  wall  to  which  Antonio  had  motioned  me; 
the  sun  went  down,  and  the  air  was  exceedingly  keen;  I 
drew  close  around  me  an  old  tattered  gypsy  cloak  with  which 
my  companion  had  provided  me,  and  being  somewhat 
fatigued,  fell  into  a doze  which  lasted  for  nearly  an  hour. 

“ Is  your  worship  the  London  Caloro?  ” said  a strange 
voice  close  beside  me. 

I started  and  beheld  the  face  of  a woman  peering  under 
my  hat.  Notwithstanding  the  dusk,  I could  see  that  the 
features  were  hideously  ugly  and  almost  black;  they  be- 


90 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


longed,  in  fact,  to  a gypsy  crone,  at  least  seventy  years  of 
age,  leaning  upon  a staff. 

“ Is  your  worship  the  London  Caloro?  ” repeated  she. 

“ I am  he  whom  you  seek,”  said  I;  “ where  is  Antonio?  ” 

“ Curelando,  curelartdo , baribustres  curelos  terela ,”  * said 
the  crone:  “ come  with  me,  Caloro  of  my  garlochin,  come 
with  me  to  my  little  ker,  he  will  be  there  anon.” 

I followed  the  crone,  who  led  the  way  into  the  town, 
which  was  ruinous  and  seemingly  half  deserted;  we  went  up 
the  street,  from  which  she  turned  into  a narrow  and  dark 
lane,  and  presently  opened  the  gate  of  a large  dilapidated 
house;  “ Come  in,”  said  she. 

“ And  the  gras?  ” I demanded. 

“ Bring  the  gras  in  too,  my  chabo,  bring  the  gras  in  too; 
there  is  room  for  the  gras  in  my  little  stable.”  We  entered 
a large  court,  across  which  we  proceeded  till  we  came  to  a 
wide  doorway.  “ Go  in,  my  child  of  Egypt,”  said  the  hag; 
“ go  in,  that  is  my  little  stable.” 

“ The  place  is  as  dark  as  pitch,”  said  I,  “ and  may  be 
a well  for  what  I know;  bring  a light  or  I will  not  enter.” 

“ Give  me  the  solabarri  ( bridle ),”  said  the  hag,  “ and  I 
will  lead  your  horse  in,  my  chabo  of  Egypt,  yes,  and  tether 
him  to  my  little  manger.”  She  led  the  horse  through  the 
doorway,  and  I heard  her  busy  in  the  darkness;  presently 
the  horse  shook  himself:  “ Grasti  terclamos ,”  said  the  hag, 
who  now  made  her  appearance  with  the  bridle  in  her  hand; 
“ the  horse  has  shaken  himself,  he  is  not  harmed  by  his  day's 
journey;  now  let  us  go  in,  my  Caloro,  into  my  little 
room.” 

We  entered  the  house  and  found  ourselves  in  a vast  room, 
which  would  have  been  quite  dark  but  for  a faint  glow  which 
appeared  at  the  farther  end;  it  proceeded  from  a brasero, 
beside  which  were  squatted  two  dusky  figures. 

“ These  are  Callees,”  said  the  hag;  “ one  is  my  daughter, 
and  the  other  is  her  chabi;  sit  down,  my  London  Caloro, 
and  let  us  hear  you  speak.” 

I looked  about  for  a chair,  but  could  see  none;  at  a short 
distance,  however,  I perceived  the  end  of  a broken  pillar 
lying  on  the  floor;  this  I rolled  to  the  brasero  and  sat  down 
upon  it. 

“ This  is  a fine  house,  mother  of  the  gypsies,”  said  I to 
the  hag,  willing  to  gratify  the  desire  she  had  expressed  of 
hearing  me  speak;  “ a fine  house  is  this  of  yours,  rather  cold 
and  damp,  though;  it  appears  large  enough  to  be  a barrack 
for  hundunares.” 

“ Plenty  of  houses  in  this  foros,  plenty  of  houses  in 
Merida,  my  London  Caloro,  some  of  them  just  as  they  were 
* Doing  business,  doing  business — he  has  much  business  to  do. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  91 

left  by  the  Corahanoes ; ah,  a fine  people  are  the  Corahanoes ; 
I often  wish  myself  in  their  chim  once  more.” 

“ How  is  this,  mother,”  said  I,  “ have  you  been  in  the 
land  of  the  Moors?  ” 

“ Twice  have  I been  in  their  country,  my  Caloro, — twice 
have  I been  in  the  land  of  the  Gorahai;  the  first  time  is  more 
than  fifty  years  ago,  I was  then  with  the  Sese  ( Spaniards ), 
for  my  husband  was  a soldier  of  the  Crallis  of  Spain,  and 
Oran  at  that  time  belonged  to  Spain.” 

“ You  were  not  then  with  the  real  Moors,”  said  I,  “ but 
only  with  the  Spaniards  who  occupied  part  of  their  country.” 

“ I have  been  with  the  real  Moors,  my  London  Caloro. 
Who  knows  more  of  the  real  Moors  than  myself?  About 
forty  years  ago  I was  with  my  ro  in  Ceuta,  for  he  was  still  a 
soldier  of  the  king,  and  he  said  to  me  one  day,  ‘ I am  tired 
of  this  place  where  there  is  no  bread  and  less  water,  I will 
escape  and  turn  Corahano;  this  night  I will  kill  my 
sergeant  and  flee  to  the  camp  of  the  Moor/  ‘ Do  so/  said 
I,  ‘ my  chabo,  and  as  soon  as  may  be  I will  follow  you  and 
become  a Corahani/  That  same  night  he  killed  his  sergeant, 
who  five  years  before  had  called  him  Calo  and  cursed  him, 
then  running  to  the  wall  he  dropped  from  it,  and  amidst  many 
shots  he  escaped  to  the  land  of  the  Corahai;  as  for  myself,  I 
remained  in  the  presidio  of  Ceuta  as  a subtler,  selling  wine 
and  repani  to  the  soldiers.  Two  years  passed  by  and  I 
neither  saw  nor  heard  from  my  ro;  one  day  there  came  a 
strange  man  to  my  cachimani  (wineshop),  he  was  dressed 
like  a Corahano,  and  yet  he  did  not  look  like  one,  he  looked 
like  more  a callardo  (black),  and  yet  he  was  not  a callardo 
either,  though  he  was  almost  black,  and  as  I looked  upon  him 
I thought  he  looked  something  like  the  Errate,  and  he  said  to 
me,  4 Zincali;  chachipe!  9 and  then  he  whispered  to  me  in 
queer  language,  which  I could  scarcely  understand,  ‘ Your 
ro  is  waiting,  come  with  me,  my  little  sister,  and  I will  take  you 
unto  him/  ‘ Where  is  he?  9 said  I,  and  he  pointed  to  the 
west,  to  the  land  of  the  Corahai,  and  said,  ‘ He  is  yonder 
away ; come  with  me,  little  sister,  the  ro  is  waiting/  For  a 
moment  I was  afraid,  but  I bethought  me  of  my  husband  and 
I wished  to  be  amongst  the  Corahai;  so  I took  the  little 
parne  (money)  I had,  and  locking  up  the  cachimani  went 
with  the  strange  man ; the  sentinel  challenged  us  at  the  gate, 
but  I gave  him  repani  (brandy)  and  he  let  us  pass;  in  a 
moment  we  were  in  the  land  of  the  Corahai.  About  a league 
from  the  town  beneath  a hill  we  found  four  people,  men  and 
women,  all  very  black  like  the  strange  man,  and  we  joined 
ourselves  with  them  and  they  all  saluted  me  and  called  me 
little  sister.  That  was  all  I understood  of  their  discourse, 
which  was  very  crabbed;  and  they  took  away  my  dress  and 


92 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


gave  me  other  clothes,  and  I looked  like  a Corahani,  and  away 
we  marched  for  many  days  amidst  deserts  and  small  villages, 
and  more  than  once  it  seemed  to  me  that  I was  amongst 
the  Errate,  for  their  ways  were  the  same:  the  men  would 
hokkawar  (cheat)  with  mules  and  asses,  and  the  women  told 
baji,  and  after  many  days  we  came  before  a large  town,  and 
the  black  man  said,  ‘ Go  in  there,  little  sister,  and  there  you 
will  find  your  ro ; ' and  I went  to  the  gate,  and  an  armed 
Gorahano  stood  within  the  gate,  and  I looked  in  his  face,  and 
lo ! it  was  my  ro. 

“ O what  a strange  town  it  was  that  I found  myself 
in,  full  of  people  who  had  once  been  Gandore  ( Christians ) 
but  had  renegaded  and  become  Gorahai.  There  were 
Sese  and  Lalore  ( Portuguese ),  and  men  of  other  nations, 
and  amongst  them  were  some  of  the  Errate  from  my  own 
country;  all  were  now  soldiers  of  the  Crallis  of  the  Gorahai 
and  followed  him  to  his  wars;  and  in  that  town  I remained 
with  my  ro  a long  time,  occasionally  going  out  with  him 
to  the  wars,  and  I often  asked  him  about  the  black  men 
who  had  brought  me  thither,  and  he  told  me  that  he  had 
had  dealings  with  them,  and  that  he  believed  them  to  be 
of  the  Errate.  Well,  brother,  to  be  short,  my  ro  was 
killed  in  the  wars,  before  a town  to  which  the  king  of  the 
Gorahai  laid  siege,  and  I became  a piuli  (widow),  and  I 
returned  to  the  village  of  the  renegades,  as  it  was  called, 
and  supported  myself  as  well  as  I could;  and  one  day  as  I 
was  sitting  weeping,  the  black  man,  whom  I had  never 
seen  since  the  day  he  brought  me  to  my  ro,  again  stood 
before  me,  and  he  said,  ‘ Gome  with  me,  little  sister,  come 
with  me,  the  ro  is  at  hand  ’ ; and  I went  with  him,  and 
beyond  the  gate  in  the  desert  was  the  same  party  of  black 
men  and  women  which  I had  seen  before.  ‘ Where  is  my 
ro?  9 said  I.  ‘ Here  he  is,  little  sister,'  said  the  black  man, 
‘ here  he  is;  from  this  day  I am  the  ro  and  you  the  romi; 
come,  let  us  go,  for  there  is  business  to  be  done.' 

“ And  I went  with  him,  and  he  was  my  ro,  and  we  lived 
amongst  the  deserts,  and  hokkawar’d  and  choried  and  told 
baji;  and  I said  to  myself,  this  is  good,  sure  I am  amongst 
the  Errate  in  a better  chim  than  my  own;  and  I often  said 
that  they  were  of  the  Errate,  and  then  they  would  laugh 
and  say  that  it  might  be  so,  and  that  they  were  not  Gorahai, 
but  they  could  give  no  account  of  themselves. 

“ Well,  things  went  on  in  this  way  for  years,  and  I had 
three  chai  by  the  black  man,  two  of  them  died,  but  the 
youngest,  who  is  the  Calli  who  sits  by  the  brasero,  was 
spared;  so  we  roamed  about  and  choried  and  told  baji; 
and  it  came  to  pass  that  once  in  the  winter  time  our  com- 
pany attempted  to  pass  a wide  and  deep  river,  of  which 


THE  BIBEE  IN  SPAIN 


93 


there  are  many  in  the  Chim  del  Corahai,  and  the  boat 
overset  with  the  rapidity  of  the  current  and  all  our  people 
were  drowned,  all  but  myself  and  my  chabi,  whom  I bore 
in  my  bosom.  I had  now  no  friends  amongst  the  Corahai, 
and  I wandered  about  the  despoblados  howling  and  lament- 
ing till  I became  half  lili  (mad),  and  in  this  manner  I found 
my  way  to  the  coast,  where  I made  friends  with  the  captain 
of  a ship  and  returned  to  this  land  of  Spain.  And  now  I 
am  here,  I often  wish  myself  back  again  amongst  the 
Corahai.” 

Here  she  commenced  laughing  loud  and  long,  and 
when  she  had  ceased,  her  daughter  and  grandchild  took 
up  the  laugh,  which  they  continued  so  long  that  I concluded 
they  were  all  lunatics. 

Hour  succeeded  hour,  and  still  we  sat  crouching  over 
the  brasero,  from  which,  by  this  time,  all  warmth  had 
departed;  the  glow  had  long  since  disappeared,  and  only 
a few  dying  sparks  were  to  be  distinguished.  The  room 
or  hall  was  now  involved  in  utter  darkness ; the  women  were 
motionless  and  still;  I shivered  and  began  to  feel  uneasy. 
“ Will  Antonio  be  here  to-night?  ” at  length  I demanded. 

“ No  tenga  usted  cuidao,  my  London  Caloro,”  said  the 
Gypsy  mother,  in  an  unearthly  tone;  “ Pepindorio  * has 
been  here  some  time.” 

I was  about  to  rise  from  my  seat  and  attempt  to  escape 
from  the  house,  when  I felt  a hand  laid  upon  my  shoulder, 
and  in  a moment  I heard  the  voice  of  Antonio. 

“ Be  not  afraid,  Tis  I,  brother;  we  will  have  a light  anon, 
and  then  supper.” 

The  supper  was  rude  enough,  consisting  of  bread, 
cheese,  and  olives.  Antonio,  however,  produced  a leathern 
bottle  of  excellent  wine;  we  despatched  these  viands  by  the 
light  of  an  earthen  lamp  which  was  placed  upon  the  floor. 

“ Now,”  said  Antonio  to  the  youngest  female,  “ bring 
me  the  pajandi,  and  I will  sing  a gachapla.” 

The  girl  brought  the  guitar,  which,  with  some  difficulty, 
the  Gypsy  tuned,  and  then  strumming  it  vigorously,  he 
sang: 

“ I stole  a plump  and  bonny  fowl, 

But  ere  I well  had  dined, 

The  master  came  with  scowl  and  growl, 

And  me  would  captive  bind. 

“ My  hat  and  mantle  off  I threw, 

And  scour’d  across  the  lea, 

Then  cried  the  bengf  with  loud  halloo, 

Where  does  the  Gypsy  flee  ? ” 

* The  Gypsy  word  for  Antonio. 


t Devil. 


94 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


He  continued  playing  and  singing  for  a considerable 
time,  the  two  younger  females  dancing  in  the  meanwhile 
with  unwearied  diligence,  whilst  the  aged  mother  occasion- 
ally snapped  her  fingers  or  beat  time  on  the  ground  with 
her  stick.  At  last  Antonio  suddenly  laid  down  the  instru- 
ment:— 

“ I see  the  London  Caloro  is  weary;  enough,  enough, 
to-morrow  more  thereof — we  will  now  to  the  charipe 
(bed):9 

“ With  all  my  heart,”  said  I;  “ where  are  we  to  sleep?  ” 

“ In  the  stable,”  said  he,  “ in  the  manger;  however 
cold  the  stable  may  be  we  shall  be  warm  enough  in  the 
bufa.” 


CHAPTER  X 

The  Gypsy’s  Granddaughter  — Proposed  Marriage  — The  Alguazil  — 
The  Assault — Speedy  Trot — Arrival  at  Trujillo — Night  and  Rain 
— The  Forest — The  Bivouac — Mount  and  Away! — Jaraicejo — The 
National — The  Cavalier  Balmerson — Among  the  Thickets —Serious 
Discourse — What  is  Truth  ? — Unexpected  Intelligence. 

We  remained  three  days  at  the  Gypsies’  house,  Antonio 
departing  early  every  morning,  on  his  mule,  and  returning 
late  at  night.  The  house  was  large  and  ruinous,  the  only 
habitable  part  of  it,  with  the  exception  of  the  stable, 
being  the  hall,  where  we  had  supped,  and  there  the  Gypsy 
females  slept  at  night,  on  some  mats  and  mattresses  in  a 
corner. 

“ A strange  house  is  this,”  said  I to  Antonio,  one 
morning  as  he  was  on  the  point  of  saddling  his  mule  and 
departing,  as  I supposed,  on  the  affairs  of  Egypt;  “ a 
strange  house  and  strange  people;  that  Gypsy  grandmother 
has  all  the  appearance  of  a sowanee  (sorceress):9 

“ All  the  appearance  of  one  I ” said  Antonio;  “ and 
is  she  not  really  one?  She  knows  more  crabbed  things 
and  crabbed  words  than  all  the  Err  ate  betwixt  here  and 
Catalonia.  She  has  been  amongst  the  wild  Moors,  and 
can  make  more  drows,  poisons,  and  philtres  than  any  one 
alive.  She  once  made  a kind  of  paste,  and  persuaded  me 
to  taste,  and  shortly  after  I had  done  so  my  soul  departed 
from  my  body,  and  wandered  through  horrid  forests  and 
mountains,  amidst  monsters  and  duendes,  during  one  entire 
night.  She  learned  many  things  amidst  the  Corahai 
which  I should  be  glad  to  know.” 

“ Have  you  been  long  acquainted  with  her?  ” said  I; 
“ you  appear  to  be  quite  at  home  in  this  house.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


95 


“Acquainted  with  her!  ” said  Antonio.  “Did  not 
my  own  brother  marry  the  black  Calli,  her  daughter,  who 
bore  him  the  chabi,  sixteen  years  ago,  just  before  he  was 
hanged  by  the  Busne?  ” 

In  the  afternoon  I was  seated  with  the  Gypsy  mother 
in  the  hall,  the  two  Caliees  were  absent  telling  fortunes 
about  the  town  and  neighbourhood,  which  was  their 
principal  occupation.  “ Are  you  married,  my  London 
Caloro?  ” said  the  old  woman  to  me.  “ Are  you  a ro?  ” 

Myself. — Wherefore  do  you  ask,  O Dai  de  los  Gales? 

Gypsy  Mother . — It  is  high  time  that  the  lacha  of  the 
chabi  were  taken  from  her,  and  that  she  had  a ro.  You 
can  do  no  better  than  take  her  for  romi,  my  London 
Caloro. 

Myself. — I am  a stranger  in  this  land,  O mother  of  the 
Gypsies,  and  scarcely  know  how  to  provide  for  myself, 
much  less  for  a romi. 

Gypsy  Mother. — She  wants  no  one  to  provide  for  her, 
my  London  Caloro,  she  can  at  any  time  provide  for  herself 
and  her  ro.  She  can  hokkawar,  tell  baji,  and  there  are  few 
to  equal  her  at  stealing  a pastesas.  Were  she  once  at 
Madrilati,  where  they  tell  me  you  are  going,  she  would 
make  much  treasure;  therefore  take  her  thither,  for  in  this 
foros  she  is  nahi  (lost),  as  it  were,  for  there  is  nothing  to  be 
gained;  but  in  the  foros  baro  it  would  be  another  matter; 
she  would  go  dressed  in  lachipi  and  sonacai  ( silk  and  gold), 
whilst  you  would  ride  about  on  your  black-tailed  gra; 
and  when  you  had  got  much  treasure,  you  might  return 
hither  and  live  like  a Crallis,  and  all  the  Errate  of  the  Chim 
del  Manro  should  bow  down  their  heads  to  you.  What 
say  you,  my  London  Caloro,  what  say  you  to  my  plan? 

Myself. — Your  plan  is  a plausible  one,  mother,  or  at 
least  some  people  would  think  so;  but  I am,  as  you  are 
aware,  of  another  chim,  and  have  no  inclination  to  pass 
my  life  in  this  country. 

Gypsy  Mother. — Then  return  to  your  own  country, 
my  Caloro,  the  chabi  can  cross  the  pani.  Would  she 
not  do  business  in  London  with  the  rest  of  the  Calor6? 
Or  why  not  go  to  the  land  of  the  Corahai?  In  which 
case  I would  accompany  you;  I and  my  daughter,  the 
mother  of  the  chabi. 

Myself. — And  what  should  we  do  in  the  land  of  the 
Corahai?  It  is  a poor  and  wild  country,  I believe. 

Gypsy  Mother. — The  London  Caloro  asks  me  what 
we  could  do  in  the  land  of  the  Corahai!  Aromali!  I 
almost  think  that  I am  speaking  to  a lilipendi  (simpleton). 
Are  there  not  horses  to  chore?  Yes,  I trow  there  are, 
and  better  ones  than  in  this  land,  and  asses  and  mules. 


96 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


In  the  land  of  the  Corahai  you  must  hokkawar  and  chore 
even  as  you  must  here,  or  hr  your  own  country,  or  else  you 
are  no  Galoro.  Can  you  not  join  yourselves  with  the  black 
people  who  live  in  the  despoblados?  Yes,  surely;  and 
glad  they  would  be  to  have  among  them  the  Errate  from 
Spain  and  London.  I am  seventy  years  of  age,  but  I wish 
not  to  die  in  this  chim,  but  yonder,  far  away,  where  both 
my  roms  are  sleeping.  Take  the  chabi,  therefore,  and  go 
to  Madrilati  to  win  the  parne,  and  when  you  have  got  it, 
return,  and  we  will  give  a banquet  to  all  the  Busn6  in 
Merida,  and  in  their  food  I will  mix  drow,  and  they  shall 
eat  and  burst  like  poisoned  sheep.  . . . And  when  they 
have  eaten  we  will  leave  them,  and  away  to  the  land  of  the 
Moor,  my  London  Caloro. 

During  the  whole  time  that  I remained  at  Merida 
I stirred  not  once  from  the  house;  following  the  advice 
of  Antonio,  who  informed  me  that  it  would  not  be  con- 
venient. My  time  lay  rather  heavily  on  my  hands,  my 
only  source  of  amusement  consisting  in  the  conversation 
of  the  women,  and  in  that  of  Antonio  when  he  made  his 
appearance  at  night.  In  these  tertulias  the  grandmother 
was  the  principal  spokeswoman,  and  astonished  my  ears 
with  wonderful  tales  of  the  Land  of  the  Moors,  prison 
escapes,  thievish  feats,  and  one  or  two  poisoning  adventures, 
in  which  she  had  been  engaged,  as  she  informed  me,  in  her 
early  youth. 

There  was  occasionally  something  very  wild  in  her 
gestures  and  demeanour;  more  than  once  I observed 
her,  in  the  midst  of  much  declamation,  to  stop  short, 
stare  in  vacancy,  and  thrust  out  her  palms  as  if  endeavour- 
ing to  push  away  some  invisible  substance;  she  goggled 
frightfully  with  her  eyes,  and  once  sank  back  in  convulsions, 
of  which  her  children  took  no  farther  notice  than  observing 
that  she  was  only  lili,  and  would  soon  come  to  herself. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day,  as  the  three 
women  and  myself  sat  conversing  as  usual  over  the  brasero, 
a shabby  looking  fellow  in  an  old  rusty  cloak  walked  into 
the  room:  he  came  straight  up  to  the  place  where  we  were 
sitting,  produced  a paper  cigar,  which  he  lighted  at  a coal, 
and  taking  a whiff  or  two,  looked  at  me:  “ Carracho,” 
said  he,  “ who  is  this  companion?  ” 

I saw  at  once  that  the  fellow  was  no  Gypsy:  the  women 
said  nothing,  but  I could  hear  the  grandmother  growling 
to  herself,  something  after  the  manner  of  an  old  grimalkin 
when  disturbed. 

“ Carracho,”  reiterated  the  fellow,  “ how  came  this 
companion  here?  ” 

“ No  le  penela  chi  min  chaboro  ” said  the  black  Galiee 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


97 


to  me,  in  an  undertone;  “sin  un  balicho  de  los  chineles  *;  " 
then  looking  up  to  the  interrogator  she  said  aloud,  “ he 
is  one  of  our  people  from  Portugal,  come  on  the  smuggling 
lay,  and  to  see  his  poor  sisters  here." 

“ Then  let  him  give  me  some  tobacco,"  said  the  fellow, 
“ I suppose  he  has  brought  some  with  him." 

“ He  has  no  tobacco/'  said  the  black  Callee,  “ he  has 
nothing  but  old  iron.  This  cigar  is  the  only  tobacco  there 
is  in  the  house;  take  it,  smoke  it,  and  go  away!  " 

Thereupon  she  produced  a cigar  from  out  her  shoe, 
which  she  presented  to  the  alguazil. 

“ This  will  not  do,"  said  the  fellow,  taking  the  cigar, 
“ I must  have  something  better;  it  is  now  three  months 
since  I received  anything  from  you;  the  last  present  was 
a handkerchief,  which  was  good  for  nothing;  therefore 
hand  me  over  something  worth  taking,  or  I will  carry 
you  all  to  the  Carcel." 

“ The  Busno  will  take  us  to  prison,"  said  the  black 
Callee,  “ hal  ha!  ha!" 

“ The  Chinel  will  take  us  to  prison,"  giggled  the  young 
girl,  “ he!  he!  he!" 

“ The  Bengui  will  carry  us  all  to  the  estaripel,"  grunted 
the  Gypsy  grandmother,  “ ho!  ho!  ho!  " 

The  three  females  arose  and  walked  slowly  round  the 
fellow,  fixing  their  eyes  steadfastly  on  his  face;  he  ap- 
peared frightened,  and  evidently  wished  to  get  away. 
Suddenly  the  two  youngest  seized  his  hands,  and  whilst 
he  struggled  to  release  himself,  the  old  woman  exclaimed: 
“ You  want  tobacco,  hijo — you  come  to  the  Gypsy  house 
to  frighten  the  Callees  and  the  strange  Caloro  out  of  their 
plako — truly,  hijo,  we  have  none  for  you,  and  right  sorry 
I am;  we  have,  however,  plenty  of  the  dust  a su  servicio ." 

Here,  thrusting  her  hand  into  her  pocket,  she  dis- 
charged a handful  of  some  kind  of  dust  or  snuff  into  the 
fellow's  eyes;  he  stamped  and  roared,  but  was  for  some 
time  held  fast  by  the  two  Callees;  he  extricated  himself, 
however,  and  attempted  to  unsheath  a knife  which  he  bore 
at  his  girdle;  but  the  two  younger  females  flung  them- 
selves upon  him  like  furies,  while  the  old  woman  increased 
his  disorder  by  thrusting  her  stick  into  his  face;  he  was 
soon  glad  to  give  up  the  contest,  and  retreated,  leaving 
behind  him  his  hat  and  cloak,  which  the  chabi  gathered 
up  and  flung  after  him  into  the  street. 

“ This  is  a bad  business,"  said  I,  “ the  fellow  will  of 
course  bring  the  rest  of  the  justicia  upon  us,  and  we  shall 
all  be  cast  into  the  estaripel." 

“ Ca!  " said  the  black  Callee,  biting  her  thumb  nail, 
* “ Say  nothing  to  him,  my  lad,  he  is  a hog  of  an  alguazil.” 

33— D 


98 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


€t  he  has  more  reason  to  fear  us  than  we  him,  we  could 
bring  him  to  the  filirnicha;  we  have,  moreover,  friends 
in  this  town,  plenty,  plenty.” 

“ Yes,”  mumbled  the  grandmother,  “ the  daughters  of 
the  baji  have  friends,  my  London  Caloro,  friends  among 
the  Busnees,  baributre,  baribu  ( plenty , plenty)” 

Nothing  farther  of  any  account  occurred  in  the  Gypsy 
house;  the  next  day,  Antonio  and  myself  were  again  in 
the  saddle,  we  travelled  at  least  thirteen  leagues  before  we 
reached  the  Yenta,  where  we  passed  the  night;  we  rose 
early  in  the  morning,  my  guide  informing  me  that  we  had 
a long  day’s  journey  to  make.  “ Where  are  we  bound  to?  ” 
I demanded.  “ To  Trujillo,”  he  replied. 

When  the  sun  arose,  which  it  did  gloomily  and  amidst 
threatening  rain-clouds,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  a range  of  mountains  which  lay  on  our  left, 
and  which,  Antonio  informed  me,  were  called  the  Sierra 
of  San  Selvan;  our  route,  however,  lay  over  wide  plains, 
scantily  clothed  with  brushwood,  with  here  and  there  a 
melancholy  village,  with  its  old  and  dilapidated  church. 
Throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  a drizzling  rain 
was  falling,  which  turned  the  dust  of  the  roads  into  mud 
and  mire,  considerably  impeding  our  progress.  Towards 
evening  we  reached  a moor,  a wild  place  enough,  strewn 
with  enormous  stones  and  rocks.  Before  us,  at  some 
distance,  rose  a strange  conical  hill,  rough  and  shaggy, 
which  appeared  to  be  neither  more  nor  less  than  an  immense 
assemblage  of  the  same  kind  of  rocks  which  lay  upon  the 
moor.  The  rain  had  now  ceased,  but  a strong  wind  rose 
and  howled  at  our  backs.  Throughout  the  journey,  I 
had  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  keeping  up  with 
the  mule  of  Antonio;  the  walk  of  the  horse  was  slow,  and 
I could  discover  no  vestige  of  the  spirit  which  the  Gypsy 
had  assured  me  lurked  within  him.  We  were  now  upon 
a tolerably  clear  spot  of  the  moor:  “ I am  about  to  see,” 
I said,  “ whether  this  horse  has  any  of  the  quality  which 
you  have  described.”  “ Do  so,”  said  Antonio,  and  spurred 
his  beast  onward,  speedily  leaving  me  far  behind.  I jerked 
the  horse  with  the  bit,  endeavouring  to  arouse  his  dormant 
spirit,  whereupon  he  stopped,  reared,  and  refused  to  proceed. 
“ Hold  the  bridle  loose  and  touch  him  with  your  whip,” 
shouted  Antonio  from  before.  I obeyed,  and  forthwith 
the  animal  set  off  at  a trot,  which  gradually  increased  in 
swiftness  till  it  became  a downright  furious  speedy  trot; 
his  limbs  were  now  thoroughly  lithy,  and  he  brandished 
his  fore  legs  in  a manner  perfectly  wondrous;  the  mule  of 
Antonio,  which  was  a spirited  animal  of  excellent  paces, 
would  fain  have  competed  with  him,  but  was  passed  in  a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


99 


twinkling.  This  tremendous  trot  endured  for  about  a 
mile,  when  the  animal,  becoming  yet  more  heated,  broke 
suddenly  into  a gallop.  Hurrah!  no  hare  ever  ran  so  wildly 
or  blindly;  it  was,  literally,  ventre  a ter  re ; and  I had 
considerable  difficulty  in  keeping  him  clear  of  rocks,  against 
which  he  would  have  rushed  in  his  savage  fury,  and  dashed 
himself  and  rider  to  atoms. 

This  race  brought  me  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  where  I 
waited  till  the  Gypsy  rejoined  me:  we  left  the  hill,  which 
seemed  quite  inaccessible,  on  our  right,  passing  through  a 
small  and  wretched  village.  The  sun  went  down,  and  dark 
night  presently  came  upon  us;  we  proceeded  on,  however, 
for  nearly  three  hours,  until  we  heard  the  barking  of  dogs, 
and  perceived  a light  or  two  in  the  distance.  “ That  is 
Trujillo,”  said  Antonio,  who  had  not  spoken  for  a long  time. 
“ I am  glad  of  it,”  I replied;  “ I am  thoroughly  tired; 
I shall  sleep  soundly  in  Trujillo.”  “ That  is  as  it  may  be,” 
said  the  Gypsy,  and  spurred  his  mule  to  a brisker  pace. 
We  soon  entered  the  town,  which  appeared  dark  and  gloomy 
enough;  I followed  close  behind  the  Gypsy,  who  led  the 
way  I knew  not  whither,  through  dismal  streets  and  dark 
places,  where  cats  were  squalling.  “ Here  is  the  house,” 
said  he  at  last,  dismounting  before  a low  mean  hut;  he 
knocked,  no  answer  was  returned; — he  knocked  again, 
but  still  there  was  no  reply;  he  shook  the  door  and  essayed 
to  open  it,  but  it  appeared  firmly  locked  and  bolted. 
“ Caramba!  ” said  he,  “they  are  out — I feared  it  might 
be  so.  Now  what  are  we  to  do?  ” 

“ There  can  be  no  difficulty,”  said  I,  “ with  respect  to 
what  we  have  to  do ; if  your  friends  are  gone  out,  it  is  easy 
enough  to  go  to  a posada.” 

“ You  know  not  what  you  say,”  replied  the  Gypsy, 
“ I dare  not  go  to  the  mesuna,  nor  enter  any  house  in 
Trujillo  save  this,  and  this  is  shut;  well,  there  is  no  remedy, 
we  must  move  on,  and,  between  ourselves,  the  sooner 
we  leave  this  place  the  better;  my  own  planoro  ( brother ) 
was  garroted  at  Trujillo.” 

He  lighted  a cigar,  by  means  of  a steel  and  yesca, 
sprang  on  his  mule,  and  proceeded  through  streets  and 
lanes  equally  dismal  as  those  which  we  had  already 
traversed  till  we  again  found  ourselves  out  of  the  town. 

I confess  I did  not  much  like  this  decision  of  the  Gypsy; 
I felt  very  slight  inclination  to  leave  the  town  behind, 
and  to  venture  into  unknown  places  in  the  dark  night, 
amidst  rain  and  mist,  for  the  wind  had  now  dropped,  and 
the  rain  began  again  to  fall  briskly.  I was,  moreover, 
much  fatigued,  and  wished  for  nothing  better  than  to 
deposit  myself  in  some  comfortable  manger,  where  I 


100 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


might  sink  to  sleep,  lulled  by  the  pleasant  sound  of  horses 
and  mules  despatching  their  provender.  I had,  however, 
put  myself  under  the  direction  of  the  Gypsy,  and  I was 
too  old  a traveller  to  quarrel  with  my  guide  under  the 
present  circumstances.  I therefore  followed  close  at  his 
crupper;  our  only  light  being  the  glow  emitted  from  the 
Gypsy's  cigar;  at  last  he  flung  it  from  his  mouth  into  a 
puddle,  and  we  were  then  in  darkness. 

We  proceeded  in  this  manner  for  a long  time;  the 
Gypsy  was  silent;  I myself  was  equally  so;  the  rain 
descended  more  and  more.  I sometimes  thought  I heard 
doleful  noises,  something  like  the  hooting  of  owls.  “ This 
is  a strange  night  to  be  wandering  abroad  in,"  I at  length 
said  to  Antonio. 

“ It  is,  brother,"  said  he,  " but  I would  sooner  be  abroad 
in  such  a night,  and  in  such  places,  than  in  the  estaripel 
of  Trujillo." 

We  wandered  at  least  a league  farther,  and  appeared 
now  to  be  near  a wood,  for  I could  occasionally  distinguish 
the  trunks  of  immense  trees.  Suddenly  Antonio  stopped 
his  mule;  “ Look,  brother,"  said  he,  “ to  the  left,  and 
tell  me  if  you  do  not  see  a light;  your  eyes  are  sharper 
than  mine."  I did  as  he  commanded  me.  At  first  I 
could  see  nothing,  but  moving  a little  farther  on  I plainly 
saw  a large  light  at  some  distance,  seemingly  amongst  the 
trees.  “ Yonder  cannot  be  a lamp  or  candle,"  said  I;  “ it 
is  more  like  the  blaze  of  a fire."  “ Very  likely,"  said 
Antonio.  “ There  are  no  queres  ( houses ) in  this  place; 
it  is  doubtless  a fire  made  by  durotunes  ( shepherds );  let 
us  go  and  join  them,  for,  as  you  say,  it  is  doleful  work 
wandering  about  at  night  amidst  rain  and  mire." 

We  dismounted  and  entered  what  I now  saw  was  a 
forest,  leading  the  animals  cautiously  amongst  the  trees 
and  brushwood.  In  about  five  minutes  we  reached  a small 
open  space,  at  the  farther  side  of  which,  at  the  foot  of  a 
large  cork  tree,  a fire  was  burning,  and  by  it  stood  or  sat 
two  or  three  figures;  they  had  heard  our  approach,  and 
one  of  them  now  exclaimed  Quien  Vive?  “ I know  that 
voice,"  said  Antonio,  and  leaving  the  horse  with  me, 
rapidly  advanced  towards  the  fire:  presently  I heard  an 
Ola  I and  a laugh,  and  soon  the  voice  of  Antonio  summoned 
me  to  advance.  On  reaching  the  fire  I found  two  dark 
lads,  and  a still  darker  woman  of  about  forty;  the  latter 
seated  on  what  appeared  to  be  horse  or  mule  furniture. 
I likewise  saw  a horse  and  two  donkeys  tethered  to  the 
neighbouring  trees.  It  was  in  fact  a Gypsy  bivouac.  . . . 
“ Come  forward,  brother,  and  show  yourself,"  said  Antonio 
to  me;  “ you  are  amongst  friends;  these  are  of  the  Errate, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  101 

the  very  people  whom  I expected  to  find  at  Trujillo,  and 
in  whose  house  we  should  have  slept.” 

“ And  what,”  said  I,  “ could  have  induced  them  to 
leave  their  house  in  Trujillo  and  come  into  this  dark  forest 
in  the  midst  of  wind  and  rain,  to  pass  the  night?  ” 

“ They  come  on  business  of  Egypt,  brother,  doubtless,” 
replied  Antonio;  “ and  that  business  is  none  of  ours,  Calla 
boca!  It  is  lucky  we  have  found  them  here,  else  we  should 
have  had  no  supper,  and  our  horses  no  corn.” 

“ My  ro  is  prisoner  at  the  village  yonder,”  said  the 
woman,  pointing  with  her  hand  in  a particular  direction; 
“ he  is  prisoner  yonder  for  choring  a mailla  ( stealing  a 
donkey );  we  are  come  to  see  what  we  can  do  in  his  behalf; 
and  where  can  we  lodge  better  than  in  this  forest,  where 
there  is  nothing  to  pay?  It  is  not  the  first  time,  I trow, 
that  Calore  have  slept  at  the  root  of  a tree.” 

One  of  the  striplings  now  gave  us  barley  for  our  animals 
in  a large  bag,  into  which  we  successively  introduced  their 
heads,  allowing  the  famished  creatures  to  regale  themselves 
till  we  conceived  that  they  had  satisfied  their  hunger. 
There  was  a puchero  simmering  at  the  fire,  half  full  of 
bacon,  garbanzos,  and  other  provisions;  this  was  emptied 
into  a large  wooden  platter,  and  out  of  this  Antonio  and 
myself  supped;  the  other  Gypsies  refused  to  join  us, 
giving  us  to  understand  that  they  had  eaten  before  our 
arrival;  they  all,  however,  did  justice  to  the  leathern  bottle 
of  Antonio,  which,  before  his  departure  from  Merida,  he 
had  the  precaution  to  fill. 

I was  by  this  time  completely  overcome  with  fatigue 
and  sleep.  Antonio  flung  me  an  immense  horse-cloth, 
of  which  he  bore  more  than  one  beneath  the  huge  cushion 
on  which  he  rode;  in  this  I wrapped  myself,  and  placing 
my  head  upon  a bundle,  and  my  feet  as  near  as  possible 
to  the  fire,  I lay  down. 

Antonio  and  the  other  Gypsies  remained  seated  by 
the  fire  conversing.  I listened  for  a moment  to  what  they 
said,  but  I did  not  perfectly  understand  it,  and  what  I 
did  understand  by  no  means  interested  me:  the  rain  still 
drizzled,  but  I heeded  it  not,  and  was  soon  asleep. 

The  sun  was  just  appearing  as  I awoke.  I made  several 
efforts  before  I could  rise  from  the  ground;  my  limbs 
were  quite  stiff,  and  my  hair  was  covered  with  rime;  for 
the  rain  had  ceased  and  a rather  severe  frost  set  in.  I 
looked  around  me,  but  could  see  neither  Antonio  nor  the 
Gypsies;  the  animals  of  the  latter  had  likewise  disappeared, 
so  had  the  horse  which  I had  hitherto  rode;  the  mule, 
however,  of  Antonio  still  remained  fastened  to  the  tree; 
this  latter  circumstance  quieted  some  apprehensions  which 


102 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


were  beginning  to  arise  in  my  mind.  " They  are  gone  on 
some  business  of  Egypt,”  I said  to  myself,  “ and  will 
return  anon.”  I gathered  together  the  embers  of  the  fire, 
and  heaping  upon  them  sticks  and  branches,  soon  succeeded 
in  calling  forth  a blaze,  beside  which  I again  placed  the 
puchero,  with  what  remained  of  the  provision  of  last  night. 
I waited  for  a considerable  time  in  expectation  of  the  return 
of  my  companions,  but  as  they  did  not  appear,  I sat  down 
and  breakfasted.  Before  I had  well  finished  I heard  the 
noise  of  a horse  approaching  rapidly,  and  presently  Antonio 
made  his  appearance  amongst  the  trees,  with  some  agitation 
in  his  countenance.  He  sprang  from  the  horse,  and 
instantly  proceeded  to  untie  the  mule.  “ Mount,  brother, 
mount  1 ” said  he,  pointing  to  the'  horse;  “ I went  with 
the  Callee  and  her  chabes  to  the  village  where  the  ro  is  in 
trouble;  the  chinobaro,  however,  seized  them  at  once 
with  their  cattle,  and  would  have  laid  hands  also  on  me, 
but  I set  spurs  to  the  grasti,  gave  him  the  bridle,  and 
was  soon  far  away.  Mount,  brother,  mount,  or  we  shall 
have  the  whole  rustic  canaille  upon  us  in  a twinkling.” 

I did  as  he  commanded  : we  were  presently  in  the  road 
which  we  had  left  the  night  before.  Along  this  we  hurried 
at  a great  rate,  the  horse  displaying  his  best  speedy  trot; 
whilst  the  mule,  with  its  ears  pricked  up,  galloped  gallantly 
at  his  side.  “ What  place  is  that  on  the  hill  yonder?  ” 
said  I to  Antonio,  at  the  expiration  of  an  hour,  as  we 
prepared  to  descend  a deep  valley. 

“That  is  Jaraicejo,”  said  Antonio;  “a  bad  place  it  is 
and  a bad  place  it  has  ever  been  for  the  Calo  people.” 

“ If  it  is  such  a bad  place,”  said  I,  “ I hope  we  shall  not 
have  to  pass  through  it.” 

“ We  must  pass  through  it,”  said  Antonio,  “ for  more 
reasons  than  one:  first,  forasmuch  as  the  road  lies  through 
Jaraicejo;  and  second,  forasmuch  as  it  will  be  necessary 
to  purchase  provisions  there,  both  for  ourselves  and  horses. 
On  the  other  side  of  Jaraicejo  there  is  a wild  desert,  a 
despoblado,  where  we  shall  find  nothing.” 

We  crossed  the  valley,  and  ascended  the  hill,  and  as 
we  drew  near  to  the  town  the  Gypsy  said,  “ Brother,  we 
had  best  pass  through  that  town  singly.  I will  go  in 
advance;  follow  slowly,  and  when  there  purchase  bread 
and  barley;  you  have  nothing  to  fear.  I will  await  you 
on  the  despoblado.” 

Without  waiting  for  my  answer  he  hastened  forward, 
and  was  speedily  out  of  sight. 

I followed  slowly  behind,  and  entered  the  gate  of  the 
town ; an  old  dilapidated  place,  consisting  of  little  more  than 
one  street.  Along  this  street  1 was  advancing,  when  a man 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


103 


with  a dirty  foraging  cap  on  his  head,  and  holding  a gun 
in  his  hand,  came  running  up  to  me:  “ Who  are  you?  ” said 
he,  in  rather  rough  accents,  “ from  whence  do  you  come?  ” 

“From  Badajoz  and  Trujillo,”  I replied;  “why  do 
you  ask?  ” 

“ I am  one  of  the  national  guard,”  said  the  man,  “ and 
am  placed  here  to  inspect  strangers;  I am  told  that  a 
Gypsy  fellow  just  now  rode  through  the  town;  it  is  well 
for  him  that  I had  stepped  into  my  house.  Do  you  come 
in  his  company?  ” 

“ Do  I look  a person,”  said  I,  “ likely  to  keep  company 
with  Gypsies?  ” 

The  national  measured  me  from  top  to  toe,  and  then 
looked  me  full  in  the  face  with  an  expression  which  seemed 
to  say,  “ likely  enough.”  In  fact,  my  appearance  was 
by  no  means  calculated  to  prepossess  people  in  my  favour. 
Upon  my  head  I wore  an  old  Andalusian  hat,  which,  from 
its  condition,  appeared  to  have  been  trodden  under  foot; 
a rusty  cloak,  which  had  perhaps  served  half  a dozen 
generations,  enwrapped  my  body.  My  nether  garments 
were  by  no  means  of  the  finest  description;  and  as  far  as 
could  be  seen  were  covered  with  mud,  with  which  my  face 
was  likewise  plentifully  bespattered,  and  upon  my  chin 
was  a beard  of  a week's  growth. 

“ Have  you  a passport?  ” at  length  demanded  the 
national. 

I remembered  having  read  that  the  best  way  to  win 
a Spaniard's  heart  is  to  treat  him  with  ceremonious  civility. 
I therefore  dismounted,  and  taking  off  my  hat,  made  a low 
bow  to  the  constitutional  soldier,  saying,  “ Senor  nacional, 
you  must  know  that  I am  an  English  gentleman,  travelling 
in  this  country  for  my  pleasure;  I bear  a passport,  which, 
on  inspecting,  you  will  find  to  be  perfectly  regular;  it  was 
given  me  by  the  great  Lord  Palmerston,  minister  of  England, 
whom  you  of  course  have  heard  of  here;  at  the  bottom 
you  will  see  his  own  handwriting;  look  at  it  and  rejoice; 
perhaps  you  will  never  have  another  opportunity.  As 
I put  unbounded  confidence  in  the  honour  of  every  gentle- 
man, I leave  the  passport  in  your  hands  whilst  I repair  to 
the  posada  to  refresh  myself.  When  you  have  inspected 
it,  you  will  perhaps  oblige  me  so  far  as  to  bring  it  to  me. 
Cavalier,  I kiss  your  hands.” 

I then  made  him  another  low  bow,  which  he  returned 
with  one  still  lower,  and  leaving  him  now  staring  at  the 
passport  and  now  looking  at  myself,  I went  into  a posada, 
to  which  I was  directed  by  a beggar  whom  I met. 

I fed  the  horse,  and  procured  some  bread  and  barley, 
as  the  Gypsy  had  directed  me;  I likewise  purchased  three 


104 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


fine  partridges  of  a fowler,  who  was  drinking  wine  in  the 
posada.  He  was  satisfied  with  the  price  I gave  him,  and 
offered  to  treat  me  with  a copita,  to  which  I made  no 
objection.  As  we  sat  discoursing  at  the  table,  the  national 
entered  with  the  passport  in  his  hand,  and  sat  down  by 
us. 

National. — Caballero!  I return  you  your  passport,  it 
is  quite  in  form ; I rejoice  much  to  have  made  your  acquaint- 
ance; I have  no  doubt  that  you  can  give  me  some  informa- 
tion respecting  the  present  war. 

Myself . — I shall  be  very  happy  to  afford  so  polite  and 
honourable  a gentleman  any  information  in  my  power. 

National. — What  is  England  doing, — is  she  about  to 
afford  any  assistance  to  this  country?  If  she  pleased  she 
could  put  down  the  war  in  three  months. 

Myself. — Be  under  no  apprehension,  Senor  nacional; 
the  war  will  be  put  down,  don't  doubt.  You  have  heard 
of  the  English  legion,  which  my  Lord  Palmerston  has 
sent  over?  Leave  the  matter  in  their  hands,  and  you 
will  soon  see  the  result. 

National. — It  appears  to  me  that  this  Caballero  Bal- 
merson  must  be  a very  honest  man. 

Myself. — There  can  be  no  doubt  of  it. 

National. — I have  heard  that  he  is  a great  general. 

Myself. — There  can  be  no  doubt  of  it.  In  some  things 
neither  Napoleon  nor  the  sawyer  * would  stand  a chance 
with  him  for  a moment.  Es  mucho  hombre. 

National. — I am  glad  to  hear  it.  Does  he  intend  to 
head  the  legion  himself? 

Myself. — I believe  not;  but  he  has  sent  over,  to  head 
the  fighting  men,  a friend  of  his,  who  is  thought  to  be 
nearly  as  much  versed  in  military  matters  as  himself. 

National. — I am  rejoiced  to  hear  it.  I see  that  the 
war  will  soon  be  over.  Caballero,  I thank  you  for  your 
politeness,  and  for  the  information  which  you  have  afforded 
me.  I hope  you  will  have  a pleasant  journey.  I confess 
that  I am  surprised  to  see  a gentleman  of  your  country 
travelling  alone,  and  in  this  manner,  through  such  regions 
as  these.  The  roads  are  at  present  very  bad;  there  have 
of  late  been  many  accidents,  and  more  than  two  deaths 
in  this  neighbourhood.  The  despoblado  out  yonder  has 
a particularly  evil  name;  be  on  your  guard,  Caballero. 
I am  sorry  that  Gypsy  was  permitted  to  pass;  should  you 
meet  him  and  not  like  his  looks,  shoot  him  at  once,  stab 
him,  or  ride  him  down.  He  is  a well  known  thief,  contra- 
bandista,  and  murderer,  and  has  committed  more  assassina- 
* El  Serrador,  a Carlist  partisan,  who  about  this  period  was  much 
talked  of  in  Spain. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


105 


tions  than  he  has  fingers  on  his  hands.  Caballero,  if  you 
please,  we  will  allow  you  a guard  to  the  other  side  of  the 
pass.  You  do  not  wish  it?  Then,  farewell.  Stay,  before 
I go  I should  wish  to  see  once  more  the  signature  of  the 
Caballero  Balmerson. 

I showed  him  the  signature,  which  he  looked  upon 
with  profound  reverence,  uncovering  his  head  for  a 
moment;  we  then  embraced  and  parted. 

I mounted  the  horse  and  rode  from  the  town,  at  first 
proceeding  very  slowly;  I had  no  sooner,  however,  reached 
the  moor,  than  I put  the  animal  to  his  speedy  trot,  and 
proceeded  at  a tremendous  rate  for  some  time,  expecting 
every  moment  to  overtake  the  Gypsy.  I,  however,  saw 
nothing  of  him,  nor  did  I meet  with  a single  human  being. 
The  road  along  which  I sped  was  narrow  and  sandy,  winding 
amidst  thickets  of  broom  and  brushwood,  with  which  the 
despoblado  was  overgrown,  and  which  in  some  places  were 
as  high  as  a man’s  head.  Across  the  moor,  in  the  direction 
in  which  I was  proceeding,  rose  a lofty  eminence,  naked 
and  bare.  The  moor  extended  for  at  least  three  leagues; 
I had  nearly  crossed  it,  and  reached  the  foot  of  the  ascent. 
I was  becoming  very  uneasy,  conceiving  that  I might 
have  passed  the  Gypsy  amongst  the  thickets,  when  I sud- 
denly heard  his  well  known  Ola!  and  his  black  savage 
head  and  staring  eyes  suddenly  appeared  from  amidst  a 
clump  of  broom. 

“ You  have  tarried  long,  brother,”  said  he;  “ I almost 
thought  you  had  played  me  false.” 

He  bade  me  dismount,  and  then  proceeded  to  lead 
the  horse  behind  the  thicket,  where  I found  the  mule 
IJicqueted  to  the  ground.  I gave  him  the  barley  and 
provisions,  and  then  proceeded  to  relate  to  him  my 
adventure  with  the  national. 

“ I would  I had  him  here,”  said  the  Gypsy,  on  hearing 
the  epithets  which  the  former  had  lavished  upon  him. 
“ I would  I had  him  here,  then  should  my  chulee  and 
his  carlo  become  better  acquainted.” 

“ And  what  are  you  doing  here  yourself,”  I demanded, 
“ in  this  wild  place,  amidst  these  thickets?  ” 

“ I am  expecting  a messenger  down  yon  pass,”  said 
the  Gypsy;  “ and  till  that  messenger  arrive  I can  neither 
go  forward  nor  return.  It  is  on  business  of  Egypt,  brother, 
that  I am  here.” 

As  he  invariably  used  this  last  expression  when  he 
wished  to  evade  my  inquiries,  I held  my  peace,  and  said 
no  more;  the  animals  were  fed,  and  we  proceeded  to 
make  a frugal  repast  on  bread  and  wine. 

“ Why  do  you  not  cook  the  game  which  I brought?  ” 


106  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

I demanded;  “ in  this  place  there  is  plenty  of  materials 
for  a fire/' 

“ The  smoke  might  discover  us,  brother,”  said  Antonio. 
“ I am  desirous  of  lying  escondido  in  this  place  until  the 
arrival  of  the  messenger.” 

It  was  now  considerably  past  noon;  the  gypsy  lay 
behind  the  thicket,  raising  himself  up  occasionally  and 
looking  anxiously  towards  the  hill  which  lay  over  against 
us;  at  last,  with  an  exclamation  of  disappointment  and 
impatience,  he  flung  himself  on  the  ground,  where  he 
lay  a considerable  time,  apparently  ruminating;  at  last 
he  lifted  up  his  head  and  looked  me  in  the  face. 

Antonio. — Brother,  I cannot  imagine  what  business 
brought  you  to  this  country. 

Myself. — Perhaps  the  same  which  brings  you  to  this 
moor — business  of  Egypt. 

Antonio. — Not  so,  brother;  you  speak  the  language 
of  Egypt,  it  is  true,  but  your  ways  and  words  are  neither 
those  of  the  Gales  nor  of  the  Busne. 

Myself. — Did  you  not  hear  me  speak  in  the  foros  about 
God  and  Tebleque?  It  was  to  declare  his  glory  to  the  Cales 
and  Gentiles  that  I came  to  the  land  of  Spain. 

Antonio. — And  who  sent  you  on  this  errand? 

Myself. — You  would  scarcely  understand  me  were  I 
to  inform  you.  Know,  however,  that  there  are  many  in 
foreign  lands  who  lament  the  darkness  which  envelops 
Spain,  and  the  scenes  of  cruelty,  robbery,  and  murder 
which  deform  it. 

Antonio . — Are  they  Calore  or  Busne?  ” 

Myself. — What  matters  it?  Both  Calor6  and  Busne 
are  sons  of  the  same  God. 

Antonio. — You  lie,  brother,  they  are  not  of  one  father 
nor  of  one  Errate.  You  speak  of  robbery,  cruelty,  and 
murder.  There  are  too  many  Busne,  brother;  if  there  were 
no  Busn6  there  would  be  neither  robbery  nor  murder. 
The  Calor6  neither  rob  nor  murder  each  other,  the  Busne 
do;  nor  are  they  cruel  to  their  animals,  their  law  forbids 
them.  When  I was  a child  I was  beating  a burra,  but 
my  father  stopped  my  hand,  and  chided  me.  “ Hurt 
not  the  animal,”  said  he;  “ for  within  it  is  the  soul  of  your 
own  sister!  ” 

Myself. — And  do  you  believe  in  this  wild  doctrine, 
O Antonio? 

Antonio. — Sometimes  I do,  sometimes  I do  not.  There 
are  some  who  believe  in  nothing;  not  even  that  they  live! 
Long  since,  I knew  an  old  Caloro,  he  was  old,  very  old, 
upwards  of  a hundred  years, — and  I once  heard  him  say, 
that  all  we  thought  we  saw  was  a lie;  that  there  was  no 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


107 


world,  no  men  nor  women,  no  horses  nor  mules,  no  olive 
trees.  But  whither  are  we  straying?  I asked  what  induced 
you  to  come  to  this  country — you  tell  me  the  glory  of  God 
and  Tebleque.  Disparate  1 tell  that  to  the  Busne.  You 
have  good  reasons  for  coming,  no  doubt,  else  you  would 
not  be  here.  Some  say  you  are  a spy  of  the  Londone, 
perhaps  you  are;  I care  not.  Rise,  brother,  and  tell  me 
whether  any  one  is  coming  down  the  pass. 

“ I see  a distant  object,”  I replied;  “like  a speck  on 
the  side  of  the  hill.” 

The  Gypsy  started  up,  and  we  both  fixed  our  eyes  on 
the  object:  the  distance  was  so  great  that  it  was  at  first 
with  difficulty  that  we  could  distinguish  whether  it  moved 
or  not.  A quarter  of  an  hour,  however,  dispelled  all 
doubts,  for  within  this  time  it  had  nearly  reached  the 
bottom  of  the  hill,  and  we  could  descry  a figure  seated 
on  an  animal  of  some  kind. 

“ It  is  a woman,”  said  I,  at  length,  “ mounted  on  a grey 
donkey.” 

“ Then  it  is  my  messenger,”  said  Antonio,  “ for  it  can 
be  no  other.” 

The  woman  and  the  donkey  were  now  upon  the  plain, 
and  for  some  time  were  concealed  from  us  by  the  copse 
and  brushwood  which  intervened.  They  were  not  long, 
however,  in  making  their  appearance  at  the  distance  of 
about  a hundred  yards.  The  donkey  was  a beautiful 
creature  of  a silver  grey,  and  came  frisking  along,  swinging 
her  tail,  and  moving  her  feet  so  quick  that  they  scarcely 
seemed  to  touch  the  ground.  The  animal  no  sooner  per- 
ceived us  than  she  stopped  short,  turned  round,  and 
attempted  to  escape  by  the  way  she  had  come ; her  rider, 
however,  detained  her,  whereupon  the  donkey  kicked 
violently,  and  would  probably  have  flung  the  former, 
had  she  not  sprung  nimbly  to  the  ground.  The  form  of 
the  woman  was  entirely  concealed  by  the  large  wrapping 
man's  cloak  which  she  wore.  I ran  to  assist  her,  when 
she  turned  her  face  full  upon  me,  and  I instantly  recognized 
the  sharp  clever  features  of  Antonia,  whom  I had  seen  at 
Badajoz,  the  daughter  of  my  guide.  She  said  nothing  to 
me,  but  advancing  to  her  father,  addressed  something  to 
him  in  a low  voice,  which  I did  not  hear.  He  started  back, 
and  vociferated  “ All!  ” “ Yes,”  said  she  in  a louder  tone, 
probably  repeating  the  words  which  I had  not  caught 
before,  “ All  are  captured.” 

The  Gypsy  remained  for  some  time  like  one  astounded 
and,  unwilling  to  listen  to  their  discourse,  which  I imagined 
might  relate  to  business  of  Egypt,  I walked  away  amidst 
the  thickets.  I was  absent  for  some  time,  but  could 


108 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


occasionally  hear  passionate  expressions  and  oaths.  In 
about  half  an  hour  I returned;  they  had  left  the  road, 
but  I found  them  behind  the  broom  clump,  where  the 
animals  stood.  Both  were  seated  on  the  ground;  the 
features  of  the  Gypsy  were  peculiarly  dark  and  grim;  he 
held  his  unsheathed  knife  in  his  hand,  which  he  would 
occasionally  plunge  into  the  earth,  exclaiming,  “ All! 
All!  ” 

“ Brother/’  said  he  at  last,  “ I can  go  no  farther  with 
you;  the  business  which  carried  me  to  Castumba  is  settled; 
you  must  now  travel  by  yourself  and  trust  to  your  baji 
{fortune).” 

“ I trust  in  Undevel,”  I replied,  “ who  wrote  my  fortune 
long  ago.  But  how  am  I to  journey?  I have  no  horse, 
for  you  doubtless  want  your  own.” 

The  Gypsy  appeared  to  reflect:  “ I want  the  horse, 
it  is  true,  brother,”  he  said,  “ and  likewise  the  macho; 
but  you  shall  not  go  en  pindre  (on  foot);  you  shall  purchase 
the  hurra  of  Antonia,  which  I presented  her  when  I sent 
her  upon  this  expedition.” 

“ The  burra,”  I replied,  “ appears  both  savage  and 
vicious.” 

“ She  is  both,  brother,  and  on  that  account  I bought 
her;  a savage  and  vicious  beast  has  generally  four  excellent 
legs.  You  are  a Calo,  brother,  and  can  manage  her; 
you  shall  therefore  purchase  the  savage  burra,  giving  my 
daugher  Antonia  a baria  of  gold.  If  you  think  fit,  you 
can  sell  the  beast  at  Talavera  or  Madrid,  for  Estremenian 
bestis  are  highly  considered  in  Castumba.” 

In  less  than  an  hour  I was  on  the  other  side  of  the 
pass,  mounted  on  the  savage  burra. 


CHAPTER  XI 

The  Pass  of  Miiabete — Wolves  and  Shepherds — Female  Subtlety — 
Death  by  Wolves — Tho  Mystery  Solved — The  Mountains — 
The  Dark  Hour — The  Traveller  of  the  Night — Abarbenel — 
Hoarded  Treasure — Force  of  Gold — The  Archbishop — Arrival  at 
Madrid. 

I proceeded  down  the  pass  of  Mirabete,  occasionally 
ruminating  on  the  matter  which  had  brought  me  to  Spain, 
and  occasionally  admiring  one  of  the  finest  prospects  in 
the  world;  before  me  outstretched  lay  immense  plains, 
bounded  in  the  distance  by  huge  mountains,  whilst  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  which  I was  now  descending,  rolled  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


109 


Tagus,  in  a deep  narrow  stream,  between  lofty  banks; 
the  whole  was  gilded  by  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun;  for 
the  day,  though  cold  and  wintry,  was  bright  and  clear. 
In  about  an  hour  I reached  the  river  at  a place  where  stood 
the  remains  of  what  had  once  been  a magnificent  bridge, 
which  had,  however,  been  blown  up  in  the  Peninsular 
war  and  never  since  repaired. 

I crossed  the  river  in  a ferry-boat;  the  passage  was 
rather  difficult,  the  current  very  rapid  and  swollen,  owing 
to  the  latter  rains. 

“ Am  I in  New  Castile?  ” I demanded  of  the  ferryman, 
on  reaching  the  further  bank.  “ The  raya  is  many  leagues 
from  hence,”  replied  the  ferryman;  “ you  seem  a stranger. 
Whence  do  you  come?  ” “ From  England,”  I replied, 

and  without  waiting  for  an  answer,  I sprang  on  the  burra, 
and  proceeded  on  my  way.  The  burra  plied  her  feet  most 
nimbly,  and,  shortly  after  nightfall,  brought  me  to  a village 
at  about  two  leagues’  distance  from  the  river’s  bank. 

I sat  down  in  the  venta  where  I put  up;  there  was  a 
huge  fire,  consisting  of  the  greater  part  of  the  trunk  of 
an  olive  tree;  the  company  was  rather  miscellaneous: 
a hunter  with  his  escopeta;  a brace  of  shepherds  with 
immense  dogs,  of  that  species  for  which  Estremadura  is 
celebrated;  a broken  soldier,  just  returned  from  the 
wars;  and  a beggar,  who,  after  demanding  charity  for 
the  seven  wounds  of  Maria  Santissima,  took  a seat  amidst 
us,  and  made  himself  quite  comfortable.  The  hostess 
was  an  active  bustling  woman,  and  busied  herself  in  cooking 
my  supper,  which  consisted  of  the  game  which  I had  pur- 
chased at  Jaraicejo,  and  which,  on  my  taking  leave  of  the 
Gypsy,  he  had  counselled  me  to  take  with  me.  In  the 
meantime,  I sat  by  the  fire  listening  to  the  conversation 
of  the  company. 

“ I would  I were  a wolf,”  said  one  of  the  shepherds; 
“ or,  indeed,  anything  rather  than  what  I am.  A pretty 
life  is  this  of  ours,  out  in  the  campo,  among  the  carascales, 
suffering  heat  and  cold  for  a peseta  a day.  I would  I 
were  a wolf;  he  fares  better  and  is  more  respected  than 
the  wretch  of  a shepherd.” 

“But  he  frequently  fares  scurvily,”  said  I;  “the 
shepherd  and  dogs  fall  upon  him,  and  then  he  pays  for  his 
temerity  with  the  loss  of  his  head.” 

“ That  is  not  often  the  case,  senor  traveller,”  said  the 
shepherd;  “he  watches  his  opportunity,  and  seldom 
runs  into  harm’s  way.  And  as  to  attacking  him,  it  is 
no  very  pleasant  task;  he  has  both  teeth  and  claws,  and 
dog  or  man,  who  has  once  felt  them,  likes  not  to  venture 
a second  time  within  his  reach.  These  dogs  of  mine 


110 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


will  seize  a bear  singly  with  considerable  alacrity,  though 
he  is  a most  powerful  animal,  but  I have  seen  them  run 
howling  away  from  a wolf,  even  though  there  were  two 
or  three  of  us  at  hand  to  encourage  them.” 

“ A dangerous  person  is  the  wolf,”  said  the  other 
shepherd,  “ and  cunning  as  dangerous;  who  knows  more 
than  he?  He  knows  the  vulnerable  point  of  every  animal; 
see,  for  example,  how  he  flies  at  the  neck  of  a bullock, 
tearing  open  the  veins  with  his  grim  teeth  and  claws. 
But  does  he  attack  a horse  in  this  manner?  I trow  not.” 

“ Not  he,”  said  the  other  shepherd,  “ he  is  too  good  a 
judge;  but  he  fastens  on  the  haunches,  and  ham-strings 
him  in  a moment.  O the  fear  of  the  horse  when  he  comes 
near  the  dwelling  of  the  wolf.  My  master  was  the  other 
day  riding  in  the  despoblado,  above  the  pass,  on  his  fine 
Andalusian  steed,  which  had  cost  him  five  hundred  dollars; 
suddenly  the  horse  stopped,  and  sweated  and  trembled 
like  a woman  in  the  act  of  fainting;  my  master  could 
not  conceive  the  reason,  but  presently  he  heard  a squealing 
and  growling  in  the  bushes,  whereupon  he  fired  off  his  gun 
and  scared  the  wolves,  who  scampered  away;  but  he  tells 
me,  that  the  horse  has  not  yet  recovered  from  his  fright.” 
“ Yet  the  mares  know,  occasionally,  how  to  balk  him,” 
replied  his  companion;  “ there  is  great  craft  and  malice 
in  mares,  as  there  is  in  all  females;  see  them  feeding  in 
the  campo  with  their  young  cria  about  them;  presently 
the  alarm  is  given  that  the  wolf  is  drawing  near;  they 
start  wildly  and  run  about  for  a moment,  but  it  is  only 
for  a moment — amain  they  gather  together,  forming  them- 
selves into  a circle,  in  the  centre  of  which  they  place  the 
foals.  Onward  comes  the  wolf,  hoping  to  make  his 
dinner  on  horseflesh;  he  is  mistaken,  however,  the  mares 
have  balked  him,  and  are  as  cunning  as  himself:  not  a 
tail  is  to  be  seen — not  a hinder  quarter — but  there  stands  the 
whole  troop,  their  fronts  towards  him  ready  to  receive  him, 
and  as  he  runs  around  them  barking  and  howling,  they  rise 
successively  on  then4  hind  legs,  ready  to  stamp  him  to  the 
earth,  should  he  attempt  to  hurt  their  cria  or  themselves.” 
“ Worse  than  the  he-wolf,”  said  the  soldier,  “ is  the 
female,  for  as  the  senor  pastor  has  well  observed,  there 
is  more  malice  in  women  than  in  males:  to  see  one  of 
these  she-demons  with  a troop  of  the  males  at  her  heels 
is  truly  surprising:  where  she  turns,  they  turn,  and  what 
she  does  that  do  they;  for  they  appear  bewitched,  and 
have  no  power  but  to  imitate  her  actions.  I was  once 
travelling  with  a comrade  over  the  hills  of  Galicia,  when 
we  heard  a howl.  ‘ Those  are  wolves/  said  my  com- 
panion, ‘let  us  get  out  of  the  way;'  so  we  stepped  from 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


111 


the  path  and  ascended  the  side  of  the  hill  a little  way, 
to  a terrace,  where  grew  vines,  after  the  manner  of  Galicia: 
presently  appeared  a large  grey  she-wolf,  deshonesta , 
snapping  and  growling  at  a troop  of  demons,  who  followed 
close  behind,  their  tails  uplifted,  and  their  eyes  like  fire- 
brands. What  do  you  think  the  perverse  brute  did? 
Instead  of  keeping  to  the  path,  she  turned  in  the  very 
direction  in  which  we  were;  there  was  now  no  remedy, 
so  we  stood  still.  I was  the  first  upon  the  terrace,  and  by 
me  she  passed  so  close  that  I felt  her  hair  brush  against 
my  legs;  she,  however,  took  no  notice  of  me,  but  pushed 
on,  neither  looking  to  the  right  nor  left,  and  all  the  other 
wolves  trotted  by  me  without  offering  the  slightest  injury, 
or  even  so  much  as  looking  at  me.  Would  that  I could 
say  as  much  for  my  poor  companion,  who  stood  farther  on, 
and  was,  I believe,  less  in  the  demon's  way  than  I was; 
she  had  nearly  passed  him,  when  suddenly  she  turned 
half  round  and  snapped  at  him.  I shall  never  forget 
what  followed:  in  a moment  a dozen  wolves  were  upon 
him,  tearing  him  limb  from  limb,  with  howlings  like  nothing 
in  this  world;  in  a few  moments  he  was  devoured;  nothing 
remained  but  a skull  and  a few  bones;  and  then  they  passed 
on  in  the  same  manner  as  they  came.  Good  reason  had 
I to  be  grateful  that  my  lady  wolf  took  less  notice  of  me 
than  my  poor  comrade.” 

Listening  to  this  and  similar  conversation,  I fell  into 
a doze  before  the  fire,  in  which  I continued  for  a consider- 
able time,  but  was  at  length  aroused  by  a voice  exclaiming 
in  a loud  tone,  “ All  are  captured!”  These  were  the 
exact  words  which,  when  spoken  by  his  daughter,  con- 
founded the  Gypsy  upon  the  moor.  I looked  around  me, 
the  company  consisted  of  the  same  individuals  to  whose 
conversation  I had  been  listening  before  I sank  into 
slumber;  but  the  beggar  was  now  the  spokesman,  and 
he  was  haranguing  with  considerable  vehemence. 

“ I beg  your  pardon,  Caballero,”  said  I,  “ but  I did 
not  hear  the  commencement  of  your  discourse.  Who 
are  those  who  have  been  captured?  ” 

“ A band  of  accursed  Gitanos,  Caballero,”  replied  the 
beggar,  returning  the  title  of  courtesy,  which  I had  bestowed 
upon  him.  “ During  more  than  a fortnight  they  have 
infested  the  roads  on  the  frontier  of  Castile,  and  many  have 
been  the  gentleman  travellers  like  yourself  whom  they 
have  robbed  and  murdered.  It  would  seem  that  the 
Gypsy  canaille  must  needs  take  advantage  of  these  troublous 
times,  and  form  themselves  into  a faction.  It  is  said 
that  the  fellows  of  whom  I am  speaking  expected  many 
more  of  their  brethren  to  join  them,  which  is  likely  enough, 


112 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


for  all  Gypsies  are  thieves:  but  praised  be  God,  they  have 
been  put  down  before  they  became  too  formidable.  I 

saw  them  myself  conveyed  to  the  prison  at . Thanks 

be  to  God.  Todos  estan  presos.” 

“ The  mystery  is  now  solved,”  said  I to  myself,  and 
proceeded  to  despatch  my  supper,  which  was  now  ready. 

The  next  day's  journey  brought  me  to  a considerable 
town,  the  name  of  which  I have  forgotten.  It  is  the 
first  in  New  Castile,  in  this  direction.  I passed  the  night 
as  usual  in  the  manger  of  the  stable,  close  beside  the 
Caballeria;  for,  as  I travelled  upon  a donkey,  I deemed 
it  incumbent  upon  me  to  be  satisfied  with  a couch  in 
keeping  with  my  manner  of  journeying,  being  averse,  by 
any  squeamish  and  over  delicate  airs,  to  generate  a suspicion 
amongst  the  people  with  whom  I mingled  that  I was  aught 
higher  than  what  my  equipage  and  outward  appearance 
might  lead  them  to  believe.  Rising  before  daylight,  I 
again  proceeded  on  my  way,  hoping  ere  night  to  be  able 
to  reach  Talavera,  which  I was  informed  was  ten  leagues 
distant.  The  way  lay  entirely  over  an  unbroken  level, 
for  the  most  part  covered  with  olive  trees.  On  the  left, 
however,  at  the  distance  of  a few  leagues,  rose  the  mighty 
mountains  which  I have  already  mentioned.  They  run 
eastward  in  a seemingly  interminable  range,  parallel  with 
the  route  which  I was  pursuing;  their  tops  and  sides  were 
covered  with  dazzling  snow,  and  the  blasts  which  came 
sweeping  from  them  across  the  wide  and  melancholy 
plains  were  of  bitter  keenness. 

“ What  mountains  are  those?  ” I inquired  of  a barber- 
surgeon,  who,  mounted  like  myself  on  a grey  burra,  joined 
me  about  noon,  and  proceeded  in  my  company  for  several 
leagues.  “ They  have  many  names,  Caballero,”  replied 
the  barber;  “ according  to  the  names  of  the  neighbouring 
places  so  they  are  called.  Yon  portion  of  them  is  styled 
the  Serrania  of  Plasencia;  and  opposite  to  Madrid  they 
are  termed  the  Mountains  of  Guadarama,  from  a river 
of  that  name,  which  descends  from  them;  they  run  a vast 
way,  Caballero,  and  separate  the  two  kingdoms,  for  on  the 
other  side  is  Old  Castile.  They  are  mighty  mountains, 
and  though  they  generate  much  cold,  I take  pleasure  in 
looking  at  them,  which  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  seeing 
that  I was  born  amongst  them,  though  at  present,  for  my 
sins,  I live  in  a village  of  the  plain.  Caballero,  there  is 
not  another  such  range  in  Spain;  they  have  their  secrets 
too — their  mysteries — strange  tales  are  told  of  those  hills, 
and  of  what  they  contain  in  their  deep  recesses,  for  they 
are  a broad  chain,  and  you  may  wander  days  and  days 
amongst  them  without  coming  to  any  termino.  Many 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


113 


have  lost  themselves  on  those  hills,  and  have  never  again 
been  heard  of.  Strange  things  are  told  of  them:  it  is 
said  that  in  certain  places  there  are  deep  pools  and  lakes,, 
in  which  dwell  monsters,  huge  serpents  as  long  as  a pine 
tree,  and  horses  of  the  flood,  which  sometimes  come  out 
and  commit  mighty  damage.  One  thing  is  certain,  that 
yonder,  far  away  to  the  west,  in  the  heart  of  those  hills, 
there  is  a wonderful  valley,  so  narrow  that  only  at  midday 
is  the  face  of  the  sun  to  be  descried  from  it.  That  valley 
lay  undiscovered  and  unknown  for  thousands  of  years; 
no  person  dreamed  of  its  existence,  but  at  last,  a long  time 
ago,  certain  hunters  entered  it  by  chance,  and  then  what 
do  you  think  they  found,  Caballero?  They  found  a small 
nation  or  tribe  of  unknown  people,  speaking  an  unknown 
language,  who,  perhaps,  had  lived  there  since  the  creation 
of  the  world,  without  intercourse  with  the  rest  of  their 
fellow  creatures,  and  without  knowing  that  other  beings 
besides  themselves  existed!  Caballero,  did  you  never 
hear  of  the  valley  of  the  Batuecas?  Many  books  have 
been  written  about  that  valley  and  those  people.  Caballero, 
I am  proud  of  yonder  hills;  and  were  I independent,  and 
without  wife  or  children,  I would  purchase  a burra  like 
that  of  your  own,  which  I see  is  an  excellent  one,  and  far 
superior  to  mine,  and  travel  amongst  them  till  I knew 
all  their  mysteries,  and  had  seen  all  the  wondrous  things 
which  they  contain.” 

Throughout  the  day  I pressed  the  burra  forward,  only 
stopping  once  in  order  to  feed  the  animal;  but,  notwith- 
standing that  she  played  her  part  very  well,  night  came 
on,  and  I was  still  about  two  leagues  from  Talavera.  As 
the  sun  went  down,  the  cold  became  intense;  I drew  the 
old  Gypsy  cloak,  which  I still  wore,  closer  around  me, 
but  I found  it  quite  inadequate  to  protect  me  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  atmosphere.  The  road,  whicq  lay 
over  a plain,  was  not  very  distinctly  traced,  and  became  in 
the  dusk  rather  difficult  to  find,  more  especially  as  cross 
roads  leading  to  different  places  were  of  frequent  occurrence. 
I,  however,  proceeded  in  the  best  manner  I could,  and 
when  I became  dubious  as  to  the  course  which  I should 
take,  I invariably  allowed  the  animal  on  which  I was 
mounted  to  decide.  At  length  the  moon  shone  out  faintly, 
when  suddenly  by  its  beams  I beheld  a figure  moving 
before  me  at  a slight  distance.  I quickened  the  pace  of 
the  burra,  and  was  soon  close  at  its  side.  It  went  on, 
neither  altering  its  pace  nor  looking  round  for  a moment. 
It  was  the  figure  of  a man,  the  tallest  and  bulkiest  that 
I had  hitherto  seen  in  Spain,  dressed  in  a manner  strange 
and  singular  for  the  country.  On  his  head  was  a hat 


114 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

with  a low  crown  and  broad  brim,  very  much  resembling 
that  of  an  English  waggoner;  about  his  body  was  a long 
loose  tunic  or  slop,  seemingly  of  coarse  ticken,  open  in 
front,  so  as  to  allow  the  interior  garments  to  be  occasionally 
seen;  these  appeared  to  consist  of  a jerkin  and  short 
velveteen  pantaloons.  I have  said  that  the  brim  of  the 
hat  was  broad,  but  broad  as  it  was,  it  was  insufficient 
to  cover  an  immense  bush  of  coal-black  hair,  which,  thick 
and  curly,  projected  on  either  side;  over  the  left  shoulder 
was  flung  a kind  of  satchel,  and  in  the  right  hand  was  held 
a long  staff  or  pole. 

There  was  something  peculiarly  strange  about  the 
figure,  but  what  struck  me  the  most  was  the  tranquillity 
with  which  it  moved  along,  taking  no  heed  of  me,  though 
of  course  aware  of  my  proximity,  but  looking  straight 
forward  along  the  road,  save  when  it  occasionally  raised 
a huge  face  and  large  eyes  towards  the  moon,  which  was 
now  shining  forth  in  the  eastern  quarter. 

“ A cold  night/'  said  I at  last.  “ Is  this  the  way  to 
Talavera?  " 

“ It  is  the  way  to  Talavera,  and  the  night  is  cold." 

“ I am  going  to  Talavera,"  said  I,  “ as  I suppose  you 
are  yourself." 

“ I am  going  thither,  so  are  you,  Bueno” 

The  tones  of  the  voice  which  delivered  these  words 
were  in  their  way  quite  as  strange  and  singular  as  the 
figure  to  which  the  voice  belonged;  they  were  not  exactly 
the  tones  of  a Spanish  voice,  and  yet  there  was  something 
in  them  that  could  hardly  be  foreign;  the  pronunciation 
also  was  correct;  and  the  language,  ^though  singular, 
faultless.  But  I was  most  struck  with  the  manner  in  which 
the  last  word,  bueno , was  spoken.  I had  heard  something 
like  it  before,  but  where  or  when  I could  by  no  means 
remember.  A pause  now  ensued;  the  figure  stalking  on 
as  before  with  the  most  perfect  indifference,  and  seemingly 
with  no  disposition  either  to  seek  or  avoid  conversation. 

“ Are  you  not  afraid,"  said  I at  last,  “ to  travel  these 
roads  in  the  dark?  It  is  said  that  there  are  robbers  abroad." 

“ Are  you  not  rather  afraid,"  replied  the  figure,  “ to 
travel  these  roads  in  the  dark? — you  who  are  ignorant  of 
the  country,  who  are  a foreigner,  an  Englishman!  " 

“ How  is  it  that  you  know  me  to  be  an  Englishman?  ” 
demanded  I,  much  surprised. 

“ That  is  no  difficult  matter,"  replied  the  figure;  “ the 
sound  of  your  voice  was  enough  to  tell  me  that." 

“ You  speak  of  voices,"  said  I;  “ suppose  the  tone  of 
your  own  voice  were  to  tell  me  who  you  are?  " 

“That  it  will  not  do,"  replied  my  companion;  “ you 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  115 

know  nothing  about  me — you  can  know  nothing  about 
me.” 

“ Be  not  sure  of  that,  my  friend;  I am  acquainted 
with  many  things  of  which  you  have  little  idea.” 

“ Por  exemplo,”  said  the  figure. 

“ For  example,”  said  I;  “ you  speak  two  languages.” 

The  figure  moved  on,  seemed  to  consider  a moment, 
and  then  said  slowly  bueno. 

“ You  have  two  names,”  I continued;  “ one  for  the 
house  and  the  other  for  the  street;  both  are  good,  but 
the  one  by  which  you  are  called  at  home  is  the  one  which 
you  like  best.” 

The  man  walked  on  about  ten  paces,  in  the  same  manner 
as  he  had  previously  done;  all  of  a sudden  he  turned, 
and  taking  the  bridle  of  the  burra  gently  in  his  hand,  stopped 
her.  I had  now  a full  view  of  his  face  and  figure,  and 
those  huge  features  and  Herculean  form  still  occasionally 
revisit  me  in  my  dreams.  I see  him  standing  in  the  moon- 
shine, staring  me  in  the  face  with  his  deep  calm  eyes. 
At  last  he  said: 

“ Are  you  then  one  of  us?  ” 

It  was  late  at  night  when  we  arrived  at  Talavera. 
We  went  to  a large  gloomy  house,  which  my  companion 
informed  me  was  the  principal  posada  of  the  town.  We 
entered  the  kitchen,  at  the  extremity  of  which  a large 
fire  was  blazing.  “ Pepita,”  said  my  companion  to  a 
handsome  girl,  who  advanced  smiling  towards  us;  “ a 
brasero  and  a private  apartment;  this  cavalier  is  a friend 
of  mine,  and  we  shall  sup  together.”  We  were  shown  to 
an  apartment  in  which  were  two  alcoves  containing  beds. 
After  supper,  which  consisted  of  the  very  best,  by  the 
order  of  my  companion,  we  sat  over  the  brasero  and 
commenced  talking. 

Myself . — Of  course  you  have  conversed  with  English- 
men before,  else  you  could  not  have  recognized  me  by 
the  tone  of  my  voice. 

Abarbenel. — I was  a young  lad  when  the  war  of  the 
Independence  broke  out,  and  there  came  to  the  village 
in  which  our  family  lived  an  English  officer  in  order  to 
teach  discipline  to  the  new  levies.  He  was  quartered 
in  my  father's  house,  where  he  conceived  a great  affection 
for  me.  On  his  departure,  with  the  consent  of  my  father, 
I attended  him  through  the  Castiles,  partly  as  companion, 
partly  as  domestic.  I was  with  him  nearly  a year,  when 
he  was  suddenly  summoned  to  return  to  his  own  country. 
He  would  fain  have  taken  me  with  him,  but  to  that  my 
father  would  by  no  means  consent.  It  is  now  five-and- 


116 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


twenty  years  since  I last  saw  an  Englishman;  but  you 
have  seen  how  I recognized  you  even  in  the  dark  night. 

Myself . — And  what  kind  of  life  do  you  pursue,  and  by 
what  means  do  you  obtain  support? 

Abarbenel. — I experience  no  difficulty.  I live  much 
in  the  same  way  as  I believe  my  forefathers  lived;  certainly 
as  my  father  did,  for  his  course  has  been  mine.  At  his 
death  I took  possession  of  the  herencia,  for  I was  his  only 
child.  It  was  not  requisite  that  I should  follow  any 
business,  for  my  wealth  was  great;  yet,  to  avoid  remark, 
I followed  that  of  my  father,  who  was  a longanizero.  I 
have  occasionally  dealt  in  wool:  but  lazily,  lazily — as  I 
had  no  stimulus  for  exertion.  I was,  however,  successful 
in  many  instances,  strangely  so;  much  more  than  many 
others  who  toiled  day  and  night,  and  whose  whole  soul  was 
in  the  trade. 

Myself . — Have  you  any  children?  Are  you  married? 

Abarbenel. — I have  no  children  though  I am  married. 
I have  a wife  and  an  amiga,  or  I should  rather  say  two 
wives,  for  I am  wedded  to  both.  I however  call  one  my 
amiga,  for  appearance  sake,  for  I wish  to  live  in  quiet, 
and  am  unwilling  to  offend  the  prejudices  of  the  surrounding 
people. 

Myself . — You  say  you  are  wealthy.  In  what  does 
your  wealth  consist? 

Abarbenel. — In  gold  and  silver,  and  stones  of  price; 
for  I have  inherited  all  the  hoards  of  my  forefathers. 
The  greater  part  is  buried  under  ground;  indeed,  I have 
never  examined  the  tenth  part  of  it.  I have  coins  of  silver 
and  gold  older  than  the  times  of  Ferdinand  the  Accursed 
and  Jezebel;  I have  also  large  sums  employed  in  usury. 
We  keep  ourselves  close,  however,  and  pretend  to  be  poor, 
miserably  so;  but  on  certain  occasions,  at  our  festivals, 
when  our  gates  are  barred,  and  our  savage  dogs  are  let 
loose  in  the  court,  we  eat  our  food  off  services  such  as  the 
Queen  of  Spain  cannot  boast  of,  and  wash  our  feet  in 
ewe rs  of  silver,  fashioned  and  wrought  before  the  Americas 
were  discovered,  though  our  garments  are  at  all  times 
coarse,  and  our  food  for  the  most  part  of  the  plainest 
description. 

Myself. — Are  there  more  of  you  than  yourself  and  your 
two  wives? 

Abarbenel. — There  are  my  two  servants,  who  are  like- 
wise of  us;  the  one  is  a youth,  and  is  about  to  leave,  being 
betrothed  to  one  at  some  distance;  the  other  is  old;  he 
is  now  upon  the  road,  following  me  with  a mule  and  car. 

Myself. — And  whither  are  you  bound  at  present? 

Abarbenel. — To  Toledo,  where  I ply  my  trade  occasion- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


117 


ally  of  longanizero.  I love  to  wander  about,  though  I 
seldom  stray  far  from  home.  Since  I left  the  Englishman 
my  feet  have  never  once  stepped  beyond  the  bounds  of  New 
Castile.  I love  to  visit  Toledo,  and  to  think  of  the  times 
which  have  long  since  departed;  I should  establish  myself 
there,  were  there  not  so  many  accursed  ones,  who  look  upon 
me  with  an  evil  eye. 

Myself . — Are  you  known  for  what  you  are?  Do  the 
authorities  molest  you? 

Abarbenel. — People  of  course  suspect  me  to  be  what  I 
am;  but  as  I conform  outwardly  in  most  respects  to  their 
ways,  they  do  not  interfere  with  me.  True  it  is  that 
sometimes,  when  I enter  the  church  to  hear  the  mass, 
they  glare  at  me  over  the  left  shoulder,  as  much  as  to  say 
— “ What  do  you  here?  ” And  sometimes  they  cross  them- 
selves as  I pass  by;  but  as  they  go  no  further,  I do  not 
trouble  myself  on  that  account.  With  respect  to  the 
authorities,  they  are  not  bad  friends  of  mine.  Many 
of  the  higher  class  have  borrowed  money  from  me  on 
usury,  so  that  I have  them  to  a certain  extent  in  my  power, 
and  as  for  the  low  alguazils  and  corchetes,  they  would  do 
any  thing  to  oblige  me  in  consideration  of  a few  dollars, 
which  I occasionally  give  them;  so  that  matters  upon  the 
whole  go  on  remarkably  well.  Of  old,  indeed,  it  was  far 
otherwise;  yet,  I know  not  how  it  was,  though  other 
families  suffered  much,  ours  always  enjoyed  a tolerable 
share  of  tranquillity.  The  truth  is,  that  our  family  has 
always  known  how  to  guide  itself  wonderfully.  I may 
say  there  is  much  of  the  wisdom  of  the  snake  amongst  us. 
We  have  always  possessed  friends;  and  with  respect  to 
enemies,  it  is  by  no  means  safe  to  meddle  with  us;  for  it 
is  a rule  of  our  house  never  to  forgive  an  injury,  and  to 
spare  neither  trouble  nor  expense  in  bringing  ruin  and 
destruction  upon  the  heads  of  our  evil  doers. 

Myself. — Do  the  priests  interfere  with  you? 

Abarbenel. — They  let  me  alone,  especially  in  our  own 
neighbourhood.  Shortly  after  the  death  of  my  father, 
one  hot-headed  individual  endeavoured  to  do  me  an  evil 
turn,  but  I soon  requited  him,  causing  him  to  be  imprisoned 
on  a charge  of  blasphemy,  and  in  prison  he  remained  a 
long  time,  till  he  went  mad  and  died. 

Myself. — Have  you  a head  in  Spain,  in  whom  is  rested 
the  chief  authority? 

Abarbenel. — Not  exactly.  There  are,  however,  certain 
holy  families  who  enjoy  much  consideration;  my  own 
is  one  of  these — the  chiefest,  I may  say.  My  grand- 
sire  was  a particularly  holy  man;  and  I have  heard  my 
father  say,  that  one  night  an  archbishop  came  to  his  house 


118  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

secretly,  merely  to  have  the  satisfaction  of  kissing  his 
head. 

Myself. — How  can  that  be;  what  reverence  could  an 
archbishop  entertain  for  one  like  yourself  or  your  grand- 
sire? 

Abarbenel. — More  than  you  imagine.  He  was  one  of 
us,  at  least  his  father  was,  and  he  could  never  forget  what 
he  had  learned  with  reverence  in  his  infancy.  He  said 
he  had  tried  to  forget  it,  but  he  could  not;  that  the  ruah 
was  continually  upon  him,  and  that  even  from  his  child- 
hood he  had  borne  its  terrors  with  a troubled  mind,  till 
at  last  he  could  bear  himself  no  longer;  so  he  went  to  my 
grandsire,  with  whom  he  remained  one  whole  night;  he 
then  returned  to  his  diocese,  where  he  shortly  afterwards 
died,  in  much  renown  for  sanctity. 

Myself. — What  you  say  surprises  me.  Have  you  reason 
to  suppose  that  many  of  you  are  to  be  found  amongst  the 
priesthood? 

Abarbenel. — Not  to  suppose,  but  to  know  it.  There 
are  many  such  as  I amongst  the  priesthood,  and  not  amongst 
the  inferior  priesthood  either;  some  of  the  most  learned 
and  famed  of  them  in  Spain  have  been  of  us,  or  of  our 
blood  at  least,  and  many  of  them  at  this  day  think  as  I 
do.  There  is  one  particular  festival  of  the  year  at  which 
four  dignified  ecclesiastics  are  sure  to  visit  me;  and  then, 
when  all  is  made  close  and  secure,  and  the  fitting  ceremonies 
have  been  gone  through,  they  sit  down  upon  the  floor  and 
curse. 

Myself. — Are  you  numerous  in  the  large  towns? 

Abarbenel. — By  no  means;  our  places  of  abode  are 
seldom  the  large  towns;  we  prefer  the  villages,  and  rarely 
enter  the  large  towns  but  on  business.  Indeed  we  are 
not  a numerous  people,  and  there  are  few  provinces  of 
Spain  which  contain  more  than  twenty  families.  None 
of  us  are  poor,  and  those  among  us  who  serve,  do  so  more 
from  choice  than  necessity,  for  by  serving  each  other  we 
acquire  different  trades.  Not  unfrequently  the  time  of 
service  is  that  of  courtship  also,  and  the  servants  eventually 
marry  the  daughters  of  the  house. 

We  continued  in  discourse  the  greater  part  of  the 
night;  the  next  morning  I prepared  to  depart.  My 
companion,  however,  advised  me  to  remain  where  I was 
for  that  day.  “ And  if  you  respect  my  counsel,”  said 
he,  “ you  will  not  proceed  farther  in  this  manner.  To- 
night the  diligence  will  arrive  from  Estremadura,  on  its 
way  to  Madrid.  Deposit  yourself  therein;  it  is  the  safest 
and  most  speedy  mode  of  travelling.  As  for  your  animal, 
I will  myself  purchase  her.  My  servant  is  here,  and  has 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


119 


informed  me  that  she  will  be  of  service  to  ns.  Let  us, 
therefore,  pass  the  day  together  in  communion,  like 
brothers,  and  then  proceed  on  our  separate  journeys." 
We  did  pass  the  day  together;  and  when  the  diligence 
arrived  I deposited  myself  within,  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  second  day  arrived  at  Madrid. 


CHAPTER  XII 

Lodging  at  Madrid — My  Hostess — British  Ambassador — Mendizabal — 
Baltasar — Duties  of  a National — Young  Blood — The  Execution — 
Population  of  Madrid — The  Higher  Orders — The  Lower  Classes — 
The  Bull-fighter — The  Crabbed  Git&io. 

It  was  the  commencement  of  February  when  I reached 
Madrid.  After  staying  a few  days  at  a posada,  I removed 
to  a lodging  which  I engaged  at  No.  3,  in  the  Calle  de  la 
Zarza,  a dark  dirty  street,  which,  however,  was  close 
to  the  Puerta  del  Sol,  the  most  central  point  of  Madrid, 
into  which  four  or  five  of  the  principal  streets  debouche, 
and  which  is,  at  all  times  of  the  year,  the  great  place  of 
assemblage  for  the  idlers  of  the  capital,  poor  or  rich. 

It  was  rather  a singular  house  in  which  I had  taken 
up  my  abode.  I occupied  the  front  part  of  the  first  floor; 
my  apartments  consisted  of  an  immense  parlour,  and  a 
small  chamber  on  one  side  in  which  I slept;  the  parlour, 
notwithstanding  its  size,  contained  very  little  furniture: 
a few  chairs,  a table,  and  a species  of  sofa,  constituted 
the  whole.  It  was  very  cold  and  airy,  owing  to  the 
draughts  which  poured  in  from  three  large  windows,  and 
from  sundry  doors.  The  mistress  of  the  house,  attended 
by  her  two  daughters,  ushered  me  in.  “ Did  you  ever 
see  a more  magnificent  apartment?  " demanded  the  former; 
“ is  it  not  fit  for  a king's  son?  Last  winter  it  was  occupied 
by  the  great  General  Espartero."  » 

The  hostess  was  an  exceedingly  fat  woman,  a native 
of  Valladolid,  in  Old  Castile.  “ Have  you  any  other 
family,"  I demanded,  “ besides  these  daughters?  " “ Two 

sons,"  she  replied;  “ one  of  them  an  officer  in  the  army, 
father  of  this  urchin,"  pointing  to  a wicked  but  clever 
looking  boy  of  about  twelve,  who  at  that  moment  bounded 
into  the  room;  “ the  other  is  the  most  celebrated  national 
in  Madrid:  he  is  a tailor  by  trade,  and  his  name  is  Baltasar. 
He  has  much  influence  with  the  other  nationals,  on  account 
of  the  liberality  of  his  opinions,  and  a word  from  him  is 


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sufficient  to  bring  them  all  out  armed  and  furious  to  the 
Puerta  del  Sol.  He  is,  however,  at  present  confined  to 
his  bed,  for  he  is  very  dissipated  and  fond  of  the  company 
of  bull-fighters  and  people  still  worse.” 

As  my  principal  motive  for  visiting  the  Spanish  capital 
was  the  hope  of  obtaining  permission  from  the  government 
to  print  the  New  Testament  in  the  Castilian  language, 
for  circulation  in  Spain,  I lost  no  time,  upon  my  arrival, 
in  taking  what  I considered  to  be  the  necessary  steps. 

I was  an  entire  stranger  at  Madrid,  and  bore  no  letters 
of  introduction  to  any  persons  of  influence,  who  might 
have  assisted  me  in  this  undertaking,  so  that,  notwith- 
standing I entertained  a hope  of  success,  relying  on  the 
assistance  of  the  Almighty,  this  hope  was  not  at  all  times 
very  vivid,  but  was  frequently  overcast  with  the  clouds 
of  despondency. 

Mendizabal  was  at  this  time  prime  minister  of  Spain, 
and  was  considered  as  a man  of  almost  unbounded  power, 
in  whose  hands  were  placed  the  destinies  of  the  country. 
I therefore  considered  that  if  I could  by  any  means  induce 
him  to  favour  my  views,  I should  have  no  reason  to  fear 
interruption  from  other  quarters,  and  I determined  upon 
applying  to  him. 

Before  taking  this  step,  however,  I deemed  it  advisable 
to  wait  upon  Mr.  Yilliers,  the  British  ambassador  at 
Madrid;  and  with  the  freedom  permitted  to  a British 
subject,  to  ask  his  advice  in  this  affair.  I was  received 
with  great  kindness,  and  enjoyed  a conversation  with 
him  on  various  subjects  before  I introduced  the  matter 
which  I had  most  at  heart.  He  said  that  if  I wished  for 
an  interview  with  Mendizabal,  he  would  endeavour  to 
procure  me  one,  but,  at  the  same  time,  told  me  frankly 
that  he  could  not  hope  that  any  good  would  arise  from 
it,  as  he  knew  him  to  be  violently  prejudiced  against 
the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  and  was  far  more 
likely  to  discountenance  than  encourage  any  efforts  which 
they  might  be  disposed  to  make  for  introducing  the  Gospel 
into  Spain.  I,  however,  remained  resolute  in  my  desire 
to  make  the  trial,  and  before  I left  him,  obtained  a letter 
of  introduction  to  Mendizabal. 

Early  one  morning  I repaired  to  the  palace,  in  a wing 
of  which  was  the  office  of  the  Prime  Minister;  it  was 
bitterly  cold,  and  the  Guadarama,  of  which  there  is  a 
noble  view  from  the  palace-plain,  was  covered  with  snow. 
For  at  least  three  hours  I remained  shivering  with  cold 
in  an  ante-room,  with  several  other  aspirants  for  an  inter- 
view with  the  man  of  power.  At  last  his  private  secretary 
made  his  appearance,  and  after  putting  various  questions 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


121 


to  the  others,  addressed  himself  to  me,  asking  who  I was 
and  what  I wanted.  I told  him  that  I was  an  Englishman, 
and  the  bearer  of  a letter  from  the  British  Minister.  “ If 
you  have  no  objection,  I will  myself  deliver  it  to  His 
Excellency,”  said  he;  whereupon  I handed  it  to  him  and 
he  withdrew.  Several  individuals  were  admitted  before 
me ; at  last,  however,  my  own  turn  came,  and  I was  ushered 
into  the  presence  of  Mendizabal. 

He  stood  behind  a table  covered  with  papers,  on  which 
his  eyes  were  intently  fixed.  He  took  not  the  slightest 
notice  when  I entered,  and  I had  leisure  enough  to  survey 
him:  he  was  a huge  athletic  man,  somewhat  taller  than 
myself,  who  measure  six  feet  two  without  my  shoes;  his 
complexion  was  florid,  his  features  fine  and  regular,  his 
nose  quite  aquiline,  and  his  teeth  splendidly  white:  though 
scarcely  fifty  years  of  age,  his  hair  was  remarkably  grey; 
he  was  dressed  in  a rich  morning  gown,  with  a gold  chain 
round  his  neck,  and  morocco  slippers  on  his  feet. 

His  secretary,  a fine  intellectual  looking  man,  who, 
as  I was  subsequently  informed,  had  acquired  a name 
both  in  English  and  Spanish  literature,  stood  at  one  end 
of  the  table  with  papers  in  his  hands. 

After  I had  been  standing  about  a quarter  of  an  hour, 
Mendizabal  suddenly  lifted  up  a pair  of  sharp  eyes,  and 
fixed  them  upon  me  with  a peculiarly  scrutinizing  glance. 

“ I have  seen  a glance  very  similar  to  that  amongst 
the  Beni  Israel,”  thought  I to  myself.  . 

My  interview  with  him  lasted  nearly  an  hour.  Some 
singular  discourse  passed  between  us:  I found  him,  as 

I had  been  informed,  a bitter  enemy  to  the  Bible  Society, 
of  which  he  spoke  in  terms  of  hatred  and  contempt,  and 
by  no  means  a friend  to  the  Christian  religion,  which 
I could  easily  account  for.  I was  not  discouraged,  how- 
ever, and  pressed  upon  him  the  matter  which  brought 
me  thither,  and  was  eventually  so  far  successful,  as  to 
obtain  a promise,  that  at  the  expiration  of  a few  months, 
when  he  hoped  the  country  would  be  in  a more  tranquil 
state,  I should  be  allowed  to  print  the  Scriptures. 

As  I was  going  away  he  said,  “ Yours  is  not  the  first 
application  I have  had;  ever  since  I have  held  the  reins 
of  government  I have  been  pestered  in  this  manner,  by 
English  calling  themselves  Evangelical  Christians,  who 
have  of  late  come  flocking  over  into  Spain.  Only  last 
week  a hunchbacked  fellow  found  his  way  into  my  cabinet 
whilst  I was  engaged  in  important  business,  and  told  me 
that  Christ  was  coming  ..... 
. • , . And  now  you  have  made  your 


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appearance,  and  almost  persuaded  me  to  embroil  myself 
yet  more  with  the  priesthood,  as  if  they  did  not  abhor 
me  enough  already.  What  a strange  infatuation  is  this 
which  drives  you  over  lands  and  waters  with  Bibles  in 
your  hands.  My  good  sir,  it  is  not  Bibles  we  want,  but 
rather  guns  and  gunpowder,  to  put  the  rebels  down  with, 
and  above  all,  money,  that  we  may  pay  the  troops;  when- 
ever you  come  with  these  three  things  you  shall  have  a 
hearty  welcome,  if  not,  we  really  can  dispense  with  your 
visits,  however  great  the  honour.” 

Myself. — There  will  be  no  end  to  the  troubles  of  this 
afflicted  country  until  the  gospel  have  free  circulation. 

Mendizabal. — I expected  that  answer,  for  I have  not 
lived  thirteen  years  in  England  without  forming  some 
acquaintance  with  the  phraseology  of  you  good  folks. 
Now,  now,  pray  go;  you  see  how  engaged  I am.  Come 
again  whenever  you  please,  but  let  it  not  be  within  the 
next  three  months. 

“ Don  Jorge,”  said  my  hostess,  coming  into  my  apart- 
ment one  morning,  whilst  I sat  at  breakfast  with  my  feet 
upon  the  brasero,  “ here  is  my  son  Baltasarito,  the  national; 
he  has  risen  from  his  bed,  and  hearing  that  there  is  an 
Englishman  in  the  house,  he  has  begged  me  to  introduce 
him,  for  he  loves  Englishmen  on  account  of  the  liberality 
of  their  opinions;  there  he  is,  what  do  you  think  of  him?  ” 

I did  not  state  to  his  mother  what  I thought;  it  ap- 
peared to  me,  however,  that  she  was  quite  right  calling 
him  Baltasarito,  which  is  the  diminutive  of  Baltasar, 
forasmuch  as  that  ancient  and  sonorous  name  had  certainly 
never  been  bestowed  on  a more  diminutive  personage: 
he  might  measure  about  five  feet  one  inch,  though  he 
was  rather  corpulent  for  his  height;  his  face  looked  yellow 
and  sickly,  he  had,  however,  a kind  of  fanfaronading  air, 
and  his  eyes,  which  were  of  dark  brown,  were  both  sharp 
and  brilliant.  His  dress,  or  rather  his  undress,  was  some- 
what shabby:  he  had  a foraging  cap  on  his  head,  and  in 
lieu  of  a morning  gown,  he  wore  a sentinel's  old  great 
coat. 

“ I am  glad  to  make  your  acquaintance,  senor  nacional,” 
said  I to  him,  after  his  mother  had  departed,  and  Baltasar 
had  taken  his  seat,  and  of  course  lighted  a paper  cigar 
at  the  brasero.  “ I am  glad  to  have  made  your  acquaint- 
ance, more  especially  as  your  lady  mother  has  informed 
me  that  you  have  great  influence  with  the  nationals.  I 
am  a stranger  in  Spain,  and  may  want  a friend;  fortune 
has  been  kind  to  me  in  procuring  me  one  who  is  a member 
of  so  powerful  a body.” 

Baltasar . — Yes,  I have  a great  deal  to  say  with  the  other 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


123 


nationals;  there  is  none  in  Madrid  better  known  than 
Baltasar,  or  more  dreaded  by  the  Carlists.  You  say  you 
may  stand  in  need  of  a friend;  there  is  no  fear  of  my 
failing  you  in  any  emergency.  Both  myself  and  any 
of  the  other  nationals  will  be  proud  to  go  out  with  you 
as  padrinos,  should  you  have  any  affair  of  honour  on  your 
hands.  But  why  do  you  not  become  one  of  us?  We 
would  gladly  receive  you  into  our  body. 

Myself. — Is  the  duty  of  a national  particularly  hard? 

Baltasar. — By  no  means;  we  have  to  do  duty  about 
once  every  fifteen  days,  and  then  there  is  occasionally 
a review,  which  does  not  last  long.  No!  the  duties  of 
a national  are  by  no  means  onerous,  and  the  privileges 
are  great.  I have  seen  three  of  my  brother  nationals 
walk  up  and  down  the  Prado  of  a Sunday,  with  sticks 
in  their  hands,  cudgelling  all  the  suspicious  characters, 
and  it  is  our  common  practice  to  scour  the  streets  at  night, 
and  then  if  we  meet  any  person  who  is  obnoxious  to  us, 
we  fall  upon  him,  and  with  a knife  or  a bayonet  generally 
leave  him  wallowing  in  his  blood  on  the  pavement:  no 
one  but  a national  would  be  permitted  to  do  that. 

Myself. — Of  course  none  but  persons  of  liberal  opinions 
are  to  be  found  amongst  the  nationals? 

Baltasar. — Would  it  were  sol  There  are  some  amongst 
us,  Don  Jorge,  who  are  no  better  than  they  should  be; 
they  are  few,  however,  and  for  the  most  part  well  known. 
Theirs  is  no  pleasant  life,  for  when  they  mount  guard 
with  the  rest  they  are  scouted,  and  not  unfrequently 
cudgelled.  The  law  compels  all  of  a certain  age  either 
to  serve  in  the  army  or  to  become  national  soldiers,  on 
which  account  some  of  these  Godos  are  to  be  found  amongst 
us. 

Myself. — Are  there  many  in  Madrid  of  the  Garlist 
opinion? 

Baltasar. — Not  among  the  young  people;  the  greater 
part  of  the  Madrilenian  Carlists  capable  of  bearing  arms 
departed  long  ago  to  join  the  ranks  of  the  factious  in 
the  Basque  provinces.  Those  who  remain  are  for  the  most 
part  grey-beards  and  priests,  good  for  nothing  but  to 
assemble  in  private  coffee-houses,  and  to  prate  treason 
together.  Let  them  prate,  Don  Jorge;  let  them  prate; 
the  destinies  of  Spain  do  not  depend  on  the  wishes  of 
ojalateros  and  pasteleros,  but  on  the  hands  of  stout  gallant 
nationals  like  myself  and  friends,  Don  Jorge. 

Myself. — I am  sorry  to  learn  from  your  lady  mother, 
that  you  are  strangely  dissipated. 

Baltasar. — Ho,  ho,  Don  Jorge,  she  has  told  you  that, 
has  she;  what  would  you  have,  Don  Jorge?  I am  young, 


124 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  young  blood  will  have  its  course.  I am  called  Baltasar 
the  gay  by  all  the  other  nationals,  and  it  is  on  account 
of  my  gaiety  and  the  liberality  of  my  opinions  that  I am 
so  popular  among  them.  When  I mount  guard  I invariably 
carry  my  guitar  with  me,  and  then  there  is  sure  to  be  a 
function  at  the  guard-house.  We  send  for  wine,  Don 
Jorge,  and  the  nationals  become  wild,  Don  Jorge,  dancing 
and  drinking  through  the  night,  whilst  Baltasarito  strums 
the  guitar  and  sings  them  songs  of  Germania: 

“ Una  romi  sin  pachi 
Le  peno  d su  chindomar,”  &c.,  &c. 

That  is  Gitano,  Don  Jorge;  I learnt  it  from  the  toreros 
of  Andalusia,  who  all  speak  Gitano,  and  are  mostly  of 
Gypsy  blood.  I learnt  it  from  them;  they  are  all  friends 
of  mine,  Montes  Sevilla  and  Poquito  Pan.  I never  miss 
a function  of  bulls,  Don  Jorge.  Baltasar  is  sure  to  be  there 
with  his  amiga.  Don  Jorge,  there  are  no  bull-functions 
in  the  winter,  or  I would  carry  you  to  one,  but  happily 
to-morrow  there  is  an  execution,  a funcion  de  la  horca; 
and  there  we  will  go,  Don  Jorge. 

We  did  go  to  see  this  execution,  which  I shall  long 
remember.  The  criminals  were  two  young  men,  brothers; 
they  suffered  for  a most  atrocious  murder,  having  in  the 
dead  of  night  broke  open  the  house  of  an  aged  man,  whom 
they  put  to  death,  and  whose  property  they  stole.  Criminals 
in  Spain  are  not  hanged  as  they  are  in  England,  or  guillo- 
tined as  in  France,  but  strangled  upon  a wooden  stage. 
They  sit  down  on  a kind  of  chair  with  a post  behind,  to 
which  is  affixed  an  iron  collar  with  a screw;  this  iron  collar 
is  made  to  clasp  the  neck  of  the  prisoner,  and  on  a certain 
signal  it  is  drawn  tighter  and  tighter  by  means  of  the  screw, 
until  life  becomes  extinct.  After  we  had  waited  amongst 
the  assembled  multitude  a considerable  time,  the  first  of 
the  culprits  appeared;  he  was  mounted  on  an  ass,  without 
saddle  or  stirrups,  his  legs  being  allowed  to  dangle  nearly 
to  the  ground.  He  was  dressed  in  yellow  sulphur-coloured 
robes,  with  a high-peaked  conical  red  hat  on  his  head, 
which  was  shaven.  Between  his  hands  he  held  a parch- 
ment, on  which  was  written  something,  I believe  the 
confession  of  faith.  Two  priests  led  the  animal  by  the 
bridle;  two  others  walked  on  either  side,  chanting  litanies, 
amongst  which  I distinguished  the  words  of  heavenly 
peace  and  tranquillity,  for  the  culprit  had  been  reconciled 
to  the  church,  had  confessed  and  received  absolution, 
and  had  been  promised  admission  to  heaven.  He  did 
not  exhibit  the  least  symptom  of  fear,  but  dismounted 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


125 


from  the  animal  and  was  led,  not  supported,  up  the  scaffold, 
where  he  was  placed  on  the  chair,  and  the  fatal  collar 
put  round  his  neck.  One  of  the  priests  then  in  a loud 
voice  commenced  saying  the  Belief,  and  the  culprit  repeated 
the  words  after  him.  On  a sudden,  the  executioner,  who 
stood  behind,  commenced  turning  the  screw,  which  was  of 
prodigious  force,  and  the  wretched  man  was  almost  instantly 
a corpse;  but,  as  the  screw  went  round,  the  priest  began 
to  shout,  “ pax  et  misericordia  et  tranquillitas  ” and  still 
as  he  shouted,  his  voice  became  louder  and  louder,  till 
the  lofty  walls  of  Madrid  rang  with  it:  then  stooping 

down,  he  placed  his  mouth  close  to  the  culprit's  ear,  still 
shouting,  just  as  if  he  would  pursue  the  spirit  through 
its  course  to  eternity,  cheering  it  on  its  way.  The  effect 
was  tremendous.  I myself  was  so  excited  that  I involun- 
tarily shouted  “ misericordia  ” and  so  did  many  others. 
God  was  not  thought  of;  Christ  was  not  thought  of;  only 
the  priest  was  thought  of,  for  he  seemed  at  that  moment 
to  be  the  first  being  in  existence,  and  to  have  the  power 
of  opening  and  shutting  the  gates  of  heaven  or  of  hell, 
just  as  he  should  think  proper.  A striking  instance  of 
the  successful  working  of  the  Popish  system,  whose  grand 
aim  has  ever  been  to  keep  people's  minds  as  far  as  possible 
from  God,  and  to  centre  their  hopes  and  fears  in  the  priest- 
hood. The  execution  of  the  second  culprit  was  precisely 
similar;  he  ascended  the  scaffold  a few  minutes  after  his 
brother  had  breathed  his  last. 

I have  visited  most  of  the  principal  capitals  of  the  world, 
but  upon  the  whole  none  has  ever  so  interested  me  as  this 
city  of  Madrid,  in  which  I now  found  myself.  I will  not 
dwell  upon  its  streets,  its  edifices,  its  public  squares,  its 
fountains,  though  some  of  these  are  remarkable  enough: 
but  Petersburg  has  finer  streets,  Paris  and  Edinburgh 
more  stately  edifices,  London  far  nobler  squares,  whilst 
Shiraz  can  boast  of  more  costly  fountains,  though  not  cooler 
waters.  But  the  population!  Within  a mud  wall,  scarcely 
one  league  and  a half  in  circuit,  are  contained  two  hundred 
thousand  human  beings,  certainly  forming  the  most  extra- 
ordinary vital  mass  to  be  found  in  the  entire  world;  and 
be  it  always  remembered  that  this  mass  is  strictly  Spanish. 
The  population  of  Constantinople  is  extraordinary  enough, 
but  to  form  it  twenty  nations  have  contributed;  Greeks, 
Armenians,  Persians,  Poles,  Jews,  the  latter,  by  the  by, 
of  Spanish  origin,  and  speaking  amongst  themselves  the 
old  Spanish  language;  but  the  huge  population  of  Madrid, 
with  the  exception  of  a sprinkling  of  foreigners,  chiefly 
French  tailors,  glove-makers  and  peruquiers,  is  strictly 
Spanish,  though  a considerable  portion  are  not  natives 


126 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


of  the  place.  Here  are  no  colonies  of  Germans,  as  at  Saint 
Petersburg;  no  English  factories,  as  at  Lisbon;  no  multi- 
tudes of  insolent  Yankees  lounging  through  the  streets 
as  at  the  Havannah,  with  an  air  which  seems  to  say,  the 
land  is  our  own  whenever  we  choose  to  take  it;  but  a 
population  which,  however  strange  and  wild,  and  composed 
of  various  elements,  is  Spanish,  and  will  remain  so  as  long 
as  the  city  itself  shall  exist.  Hail,  ye  aguadores  of  Asturial 
who,  in  your  dress  of  coarse  duffel  and  leathern  skull-caps, 
are  seen  seated  in  hundreds  by  the  fountain  sides,  upon  your 
empty  water-casks,  or  staggering  with  them  filled  to  the 
topmost  stories  of  lofty  houses.  Hail,  ye  caleseros  of 
Valencia!  who,  lolling  lazily  against  your  vehicles,  rasp 
tobacco  for  your  paper  cigars  whilst  waiting  for  a fare. 
Hail  to  you,  beggars  of  La  Mancha!  men  and  women,  who, 
wrapped  in  coarse  blankets,  demand  charity  indifferently 
at  the  gate  of  the  palace  or  the  prison.  Hail  to  you, 
valets  from  the  mountains,  mayordomos  and  secretaries 
from  Biscay  and  Guipuscoa,  toreros  from  Andalusia, 
riposteros  from  Galicia,  shopkeepers  from  Catalonia! 
Hail  to  ye,  Castilians,  Estremenians  and  Aragonese,  of 
whatever  calling!  And  lastly,  genuine  sons  of  the  capital, 
rabble  of  Madrid,  ye  twenty  thousand  manolos,  whose 
terrible  knifes,  on  the  second  morning  of  May,  worked 
such  grim  havoc  amongst  the  legions  of  Murat! 

And  the  higher  orders — the  ladies  and  gentlemen,  the 
cavaliers  and  senoras;  shall  I pass  them  by  in  silence? 
The  truth  is  I have  little  to  say  about  them;  I mingled 
but  little  in  their  society,  and  what  I saw  of  them  by  no 
means  tended  to  exalt  them  in  my  imagination.  I am 
not  one  of  those  who,  wherever  they  go,  make  it  a constant 
practice  to  disparage  the  higher  orders,  and  to  exalt  the 
populace  at  their  expense.  There  are  many  capitals 
in  which  the  high  aristocracy,  the  lords  and  ladies,  the 
sons  and  daughters  of  nobility,  constitute  the  most  remark- 
able and  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  population.  This 
is  the  case  at  Vienna,  and  more  especially  at  London.  Who 
can  rival  the  English  aristocrat  in  lofty  stature,  in  dignified 
bearing,  in  strength  of  hand,  and  valour  of  heart?  Who 
rides  a nobler  horse?  Who  has  a firmer  seat?  And  who 
more  lovely  than  his  wife,  or  sister,  or  daughter?  But 
with  respect  to  the  Spanish  aristocracy,  the  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  the  cavaliers  and  senoras,  I believe  the  less 
that  is  said  of  them  on  the  points  to  which  I have  just 
alluded  the  better.  I confess,  however,  that  I know 
little  about  them;  they  have,  perhaps,  their  admirers, 
and  to  the  pens  of  such  I leave  their  panegyric.  Le  Sage 
has  described  them  as  they  were  nearly  two  centuries  ago. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


127 


His  description  is  anything  but  captivating,  and  I do 
not  think  that  they  have  improved  since  the  period  of 
the  sketches  of  the  immortal  Frenchman.  I would  sooner 
talk  of  the  lower  class,  not  only  of  Madrid  but  of  all  Spain. 
The  Spaniard  of  the  lower  class  has  much  more  interest 
for  me,  whether  manolo,  labourer,  or  muleteer.  He  is 
not  a common  being;  he  is  an  extraordinary  man.  He 
has  not,  it  is  true,  the  amiability  and  generosity  of  the 
Russian  mujik,  who  will  give  his  only  rouble  rather  than 
the  stranger  shall  want;  nor  his  placid  courage,  which 
renders  him  insensible  to  fear,  and  at  the  command  of  his 
Tsar,  sends  him  singing  to  certain  death.*  There  is  more 
hardness  and  less  self-devotion  in  the  disposition  of  the 
Spaniard;  he  possesses,  however,  a spirit  of  proud  in- 
dependence, which  it  is  impossible  but  to  admire.  He  is 
ignorant,  of  course;  but  it  is  singular  that  I have  in- 
variably found  amongst  the  low  and  slightly  educated 
classes  far  more  liberality  of  sentiment  than  amongst  the 
upper.  It  has  long  been  the  fashion  to  talk  of  the  bigotry 
of  the  Spaniards,  and  their  mean  jealousy  of  foreigners. 
This  is  true  to  a certain  extent:  but  it  chiefly  holds  good 
with  respect  to  the  upper  classes.  If  foreign  valour  or 
talent  has  never  received  its  proper  meed  in  Spain,  the 
great  body  of  the  Spaniards  are  certainly  not  in  fault. 
I have  heard  Wellington  calumniated  in  this  proud  scene 
of  his  triumphs,  but  never  by  the  old  soldiers  of  Aragon 
and  the  Asturias,  who  assisted  to  vanquish  the  French 
at  Salamanca  and  the  Pyrenees.  I have  heard  the  manner 
of  riding  of  an  English  jockey  criticized,  but  it  was  by 
the  idiotic  heir  of  Medina  Geli,  and  not  by  a picador  of  the 
Madrilenian  bull  ring. 

Apropos  of  bull-fighters  : — Shortly  after  my  arrival, 
I one  day  entered  a low  tavern  in  a neighbourhood  notorious 
for  robbery  and  murder,  and  in  which  for  the  last  two 
hours  I had  been  wandering  on  a voyage  of  discovery.  I 
was  fatigued,  and  required  refreshment.  I found  the  place 
thronged  with  people,  who  had  all  the  appearance  of 
ruffians.  I saluted  them,  upon  which  they  made  way 
for  me  to  the  bar,  taking  off  their  sombreros  with  great 
ceremony.  I emptied  a glass  of  val  de  pehas,  and  was 
about  to  pay  for  it  and  depart,  when  a horrible  looking 
fellow,  dressed  in  a buff  jerkin,  leather  breeches,  and 
jackboots,  which  came  half  way  up  his  thighs,  and  having 
on  his  head  a white  hat,  the  runs  of  which  were  at  least 

* At  the  last  attack  on  Warsaw,  when  the  loss  of  the  Russians  amounted 
to  upwards  of  twenty  thousand  men,  the  soldiery  mounted  the  breach, 
repeating  in  measured  chant,  one  of  their  popular  songs  : “ Come,  let  us  cut 
the  cabbage,”  &c. 


128 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a yard  and  a half  in  circumference,  pushed  through  the 
crowd,  and  confronting  me,  roared: — 

“ Otra  copita  ! vamos  Inglesito  : Otra  copita  ! ” 

“ Thank  you,  my  good  sir,  you  are  very  kind,  you 
appear  to  know  me,  but  I have  not  the  honour  of  knowing 
you.” 

“ Not  know  me!  ” replied  the  being.  “ I am  Sevilla, 
the  torero.  I know  you  well;  you  are  the  friend  of 
Baltasarito,  the  national,  who  is  a friend  of  mine,  and 
a very  good  subject.” 

Then  turning  to  the  company,  he  said  in  a sonorous 
tone,  laying  a strong  emphasis  on  the  last  syllable  of 
every  word,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  gente  rufianesca 
throughout  Spain: 

“ Cavaliers,  and  strong  men,  this  cavalier  is  the  friend 
of  a friend  of  mine.  Es  mucho  hombre.  There  is  none  like 
him  in  Spain.  He  speaks  the  crabbed  Gitano  though  he 
is  an  Inglesito.” 

“ We  do  not  believe  it,”  replied  several  grave  voices. 
“ It  is  not  possible.” 

“ It  is  not  possible,  say  you?  I tell  you  it  is.  Come 
forward,  Balseiro,  you  who  have  Been  in  prison  all  your 
life,  and  are  always  boasting  that  you  can  speak  the  crabbed 
Gitano,  though  I say  you  know  nothing  of  it — come  forward 
and  speak  to  his  worship  in  the  crabbed  Gitano.” 

A low,  slight,  but  active  figure  stepped  forward.  He 
was  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  and  wore  a montero  cap;  his 
features  were  handsome,  but  they  were  those  of  a demon. 

He  spoke  a few  words  in  the  broken  Gypsy  slang  of 
the  prison,  inquiring  of  me  whether  I had  ever  been  in 
the  condemned  cell,  and  whether  I knew  what  a Gitana* 
was? 

“ Yamos  Inglesito,”  shouted  Sevilla  in  a voice  of 
thunder;  “ answer  the  monro  in  the  crabbed  Gitano.” 

I answered  the  robber,  for  such  he  was,  and  one,  too, 
whose  name  will  live  for  many  a year  in  the  ruffian  histories 
of  Madrid;  I answered  him  in  a speech  of  some  length, 
in  the  dialect  of  the  Estremenian  Gypsies. 

“ I believe  it  is  the  crabbed  Gitano,”  muttered  Balseiro. 
“ It  is  either  that  or  English,  for  I understand  not  a word 
of  it.” 

“ Did  I not  say  to  you,”  cried  the  bull-fighter,  'That 
you  knew  nothing  of  the  crabbed  Gitano?  But  this  Ingle- 
sito does.  I understood  all  he  said.  Vaya,  there  is  none 
like  him  for  the  crabbed  Gitano.  He  is  a good  ginete, 
too;  next  to  myself,  there  is  none  like  him,  only  he  rides 
with  stirrup  leathers  too  short.  Inglesito,  if  you  have 
♦ Twelve  ounces  of  bread,  small  pound,  as  given  in  the  prison, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


129 


need  of  money,  I will  lend  you  my  purse.  All  I have  is 
at  your  service,  and  that  is  not  a little;  I have  just  gained 
four  thousand  chules  by  the  lottery.  Courage,  Englishman  I 
Another  cup.  I will  pay  all.  I,  Sevilla!  ” 

And  he  clapped  his  hand  repeatedly  on  his  breast, 
reiterating  “ I,  Sevilla!  I ” 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Intrigues  at  Court — Quesada  and  Galiano — Dissolution  of  the  Cortes — 
The  Secretary — Aragoneso  Pertinacity — The  Council  of  Trent — 
The  Asturian — The  Three  Thieves — Benedict  Mol— The  Men  of 
Lucerne — The  Treasure 

Mendizabal  had  told  me  to  call  upon  him  again  at  the  end 
of  three  months,  giving  me  hopes  that  he  would  not  then 
oppose  himself  to  the  publication  of  the  New  Testament; 
before,  however,  the  three  months  had  elapsed,  he  had 
fallen  into  disgrace,  and  had  ceased  to  be  prime  minister. 

An  intrigue  had  been  formed  against  him,  at  the  head 
of  which  were  two  quondam  friends  of  his,  and  fellow- 
townsmen,  Gaditanians,  Isturitz  and  Alcala  Galiano ; 
both  of  them  had  been  egregious  liberals  in  their  day,  and 
indeed  principal  members  of  those  cortes  which,  on  the 
Angouleme  invasion,  had  hurried  Ferdinand  from  Madrid 
to  Cadiz,  and  kept  him  prisoner  there  until  that  impregnable 
town  thought  proper  to  surrender,  and  both  of  them  had 
been  subsequently  refugees  in  England,  where  they  had 
spent  a considerable  number  of  years. 

These  gentlemen,  however,  finding  themselves  about 
this  time  exceedingly  poor,  and  not  seeing  any  immediate 
prospect  of  advantage  from  supporting  Mendizabal;  con- 
sidering themselves,  moreover,  quite  as  good  men  as  he, 
and  as  capable  of  governing  Spain  in  the  present  emergency; 
determined  to  secede  from  the  party  of  their  friend,  whom 
they  had  hitherto  supported,  and  to  set  up  for  themselves. 

They  therefore  formed  an  opposition  to  Mendizabal 
in  the  cortes;  the  members  of  this  opposition  assumed 
the  name  of  moderados,  in  contra-distinction  to  Mendizabal 
and  his  followers,  who  were  ultra  liberals.  The  moderados 
were  encouraged  by  the  Queen  Regent  Christina,  who 
aimed  at  a little  more  power  than  the  liberals  were  disposed 
to  allow  her,  and  who  had  a personal  dislike  to  the  minister. 
They  were  likewise  encouraged  by  Cordova,  who  at  that 
time  commanded  the  army,  and  was  displeased  with 
33— e 


130 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Mendizabal,  inasmuch  as  the  latter  did  not  supply  the 
pecuniary  demands  of  the  general  with  sufficient  alacrity, 
though  it  is  said  that  the  greater  part  of  what  was  sent 
for  the  payment  of  the  troops  was  not  devoted  to  that 
purpose,  but  was  invested  in  the  French  funds  in  the 
name  and  for  the  use  and  behoof  of  the  said  Cordova. 

It  is,  however,  by  no  means  my  intention  to  write 
an  account  of  the  political  events  which  were  passing 
around  me  at  this  period;  suffice  it  to  say,  that  Mendizabal 
finding  himself  thwarted  in  all  his  projects  by  the  regent 
and  the  general,  the  former  of  whom  would  adopt  no 
measure  which  he  recommended,  whilst  the  latter  remained 
inactive  and  refused  to  engage  the  enemy,  which  by  this 
time  had  recovered  from  the  check  caused  by  the  death  of 
Zumalacarregui,  and  was  making  considerable  progress, 
resigned  and  left  the  field  for  the  time  open  to  his  ad- 
versaries, though  he  possessed  an  immense  majority  in  the 
cortes,  and  had  the  voice  of  the  nation,  at  least  the  liberal 
part  of  it,  in  his  favour. 

Thereupon,  Isturitz  became  head  of  the  cabinet,  Galiano 
minister  of  marine,  and  a certain  Duke  of  Rivas  minister 

of  the  interior.  These,  were  the  heads  of  the  moderado 

government,  but  as  they  were  by  no  means  popular  at 
Madrid,  and  feared  the  nationals,  they  associated  with 
themselves  one  who  hated  the  latter  body  and  feared 

nothing,  a man  of  the  name  of  Quesada,  a very  stupid 

individual,  but  a great  fighter,  who,  at  one  period  of  his 
life,  had  commanded  a legion  or  body  of  men  called  the 
Army  of  the  Faith,  whose  exploits  both  on  the  French  and 
Spanish  side  of  the  Pyrenees  are  too  well  known  to  require 
recapitulation.  This  person  was  made  captain  general 
of  Madrid. 

By  far  the  most  clever  member  of  this  government 
was  Galiano,  whose  acquaintance  I had  formed  shortly 
after  my  arrival.  He  was  a man  of  considerable  literature, 
and  particularly  well  versed  in  that  of  his  own  country. 
He  was,  moreover,  a fluent,  elegant,  and  forcible  speaker, 
and  was  to  the  moderado  party  within  the  cortes  what 
Quesada  was  without,  namely,  their  horses  and  chariots. 
Why  he  was  made  minister  of  marine  is  difficult  to  say, 
as  Spain  did  not  possess  any;  perhaps,  however,  from 
his  knowledge  of  the  English  language,  which  he  spoke 
and  wrote  nearly  as  well  as  his  own  tongue,  having  indeed 
during  his  sojourn  in  England  chiefly  supported  himself 
by  writing  for  reviews  and  journals,  an  honourable  occupa- 
tion, but  to  which  few  foreign  exiles  in  England  would 
be  qualified  to  devote  themselves. 

He  was  a very  small  and  irritable  man,  and  a bitter 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


131 


enemy  to  every  person  who  stood  in  the  way  of  his 
advancement.  He  hated  Mendizabal  with  undisguised 
rancour,  and  never  spoke  of  him  but  in  terms  of  unmeasured 
contempt.  “ I am  afraid  that  I shall  have  some  difficulty 
in  inducing  Mendizabal  to  give  me  permission  to  print 
the  Testament,”  said  I to  him  one  day.  “ Mendizabal 
is  a jackass,”  replied  Galiano.  “ Caligula  made  his  horse 

consul,  which  I suppose  induced  Lord  to  send  over 

this  huge  burro  of  the  Stock  Exchange  to  be  our  minister.” 
It  would  be  very  ungrateful  on  my  part  were  I not 
to  confess  my  great  obligations  to  Galiano,  who  assisted 
me  to  the  utmost  of  his  power  in  the  business  which  had 
brought  me  to  Spain.  Shortly  after  the  ministry  was 
formed,  I went  to  him  and  said,  “ that  now  or  never  was 
the  time  to  make  an  effort  in  my  behalf.”  “ I will  do  so,” 
said  he,  in  a waspish  tone;  for  he  always  spoke  waspishly 
whether  to  friend  or  foe;  “ but  you  must  have  patience 
for  a few  days,  we  are  very  much  occupied  at  present. 
We  have  been  outvoted  in  the  cortes,  and  this  afternoon 
we  intend  to  dissolve  them.  It  is  believed  that  the  rascals 
will  refuse  to  depart,  but  Quesada  will  stand  at  the  door 
ready  to  turn  them  out,  should  they  prove  refractory. 
Come  along,  and  you  will  perhaps  see  a funcion.” 

After  an  hour's  debate,  the  cortes  were  dissolved  with- 
out it  being  necessary  to  call  in  the  aid  of  the  redoubtable 
Quesada,  and  Galiano  forthwith  gave  me  a letter  to  his 
colleague  the  Duke  of  Rivas,  in  whose  department  he  told 
me  was  vested  the  power  either  of  giving  or  refusing  the 
permission  to  print  the  book  in  question.  The  duke 
was  a very  handsome  young  man,  of  about  thirty,  an 
Andalusian  by  birth,  like  his  two  colleagues.  He  had 
published  several  works,  tragedies,  I believe,  and  enjoyed 
a certain  kind  of  literary  reputation.  He  received  me 
with  the  greatest  affability;  and  having  heard  what  I had 
to  say,  he  replied  with  a most  captivating  bow,  and  a 
genuine  Andalusian  grimace:  “ Go  to  my  secretary;  go 
to  my  secretary — el  hara  por  listed  el  gusto.”  So  I went 
to  the  secretary,  whose  name  was  Oliban,  an  Aragonese, 
who  was  not  handsome,  and  whose  manners  were  neither 
elegant  nor  affable.  “ You  want  permission  to  print  the 
Testament?  ” “ I do,”  said  I.  “ And  you  have  come 

to  His  Excellency  about  it,”  continued  Oliban.  “ Very 
true,”  I replied.  “ I suppose  you  intend  to  print  it  without 
notes.”  “ Yes.”  “ Then  His  Excellency  cannot  give 
you  permission,”  said  the  Aragonese  secretary:  “ it  was 
determined  by  the  Council  of  Trent  that  no  part  of  the 
Scripture  should  be  printed  in  any  Christian  country 
without  the  notes  of  the  church.”  “ How  many  years  was 


132 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


that  ago?  ” I demanded.  “ I do  not  know  how  many 
years  ago  it  was,”  said  Oliban;  “ but  such  was  the  decree 
of  the  Council  of  Trent.”  “ Is  Spain  at  present  governed 
according  to  the  decrees  of  the  Council  of  Trent?  ” I 
inquired.  “ In  some  points  she  is,”  answered  the  Aragon- 
ese, “ and  this  is  one.  But  tell  me  who  are  you?  Are 
you  known  to  the  British  minister?  ” “ O yes,  and  he 

takes  a great  interest  in  the  matter,”  “ Does  he?  ” said 
Oliban;  “ that  indeed  alters  the  case:  if  you  can  show 
me  that  His  Excellency  takes  an  interest  in  this  business, 
I certainly  shall  not  oppose  myself  to  it.” 

The  British  minister  performed  all  I could  wish,  and 
much  more  than  I could  expect;  he  had  an  interview 
with  the  Duke  of  Rivas,  with  whom  he  had  much  discourse 
upon  my  affair:  the  duke  was  all  smiles  and  courtesy. 
He  moreover  wrote  a private  letter  to  the  duke,  which 
he  advised  me  to  present  when  I next  paid  him  a visit, 
and,  to  crown  all,  he  wrote  a letter  directed  to  myself,  in 
which  he  did  me  the  honour  to  say,  that  he  had  a regard 
for  me,  and  that  nothing  would  afford  him  greater  pleasure 
than  to  hear  that  I had  obtained  the  permission  which 
I was  seeking.  So  I went  to  the  duke,  and  delivered  the 
letter.  He  was  ten  times  more  kind  and  affable  than 
before:  he  read  the  letter,  smiled  most  sweetly,  and  then, 
as  if  seized  with  sudden  enthusiasm,  he  extended  his  arms 
in  a manner  almost  theatrical,  exclaiming,  “ Al  secretario , 
el  hara  por  usted  el  gusto”  Away  I hurried  to  the  secre- 
tary, who  received  me  with  all  the  coolness  of  an  icicle: 
I related  to  him  the  words  of  his  principal,  and  then  put 
into  his  hand  the  letter  of  the  British  minister  to  myself. 
The  secretary  read  it  very  deliberately,  and  then  said  that 
it  was  evident  His  Excellency  did  take  an  interest  in  the 
matter.  He  then  asked  me  my  name,  and  taking  a sheet 
of  paper,  sat  down  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  writing  the 
permission.  I was  in  ecstasy — all  of  a sudden,  however, 
he  stopped,  lifted  up  his  head,  seemed  to  consider  a moment, 
and  then  putting  his  pen  behind  his  ear,  he  said,  “ Amongst 
the  decrees  of  the  Council  of  Trent  is  one  to  the  effect  ” 

“ Oh  dear!  ” said  I. 

“ A singular  person  is  this  Oliban,”  said  I to  Galiano; 
‘'you  cannot  imagine  what  trouble  he  gives  me:  he  is 
continually  talking  about  the  Council  of  Trent.” 

“ I wish  he  was  in  the  Trent  up  to  the  middle,”  said 
Galiano,  who,  as  I have  observed  already,  spoke  excellent 
English;  “ I wish  he  was  there  for  talking  such  nonsense. 
However,”  said  he,  “ we  must  not  offend  Oliban,  he  is  one 
of  us,  and  has  done  us  much  service;  he  is,  moreover, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


133 


a very  clever  man,  but  he  is  an  Aragonese,  and  when  one 
of  that  nation  once  gets  an  idea  into  his  head,  it  is  the  most 
difficult  thing  in  the  world  to  dislodge  it;  however,  we  will 
go  to  him ; he  is  an  old  friend  of  mine,  and  I have  no  doubt 
but  that  we  shall  be  able  to  make  him  listen  to  reason/' 
So  the  next  day  I called  upon  Galiano,  at  his  marine  or 
admiralty  office  (what  shall  I call  it?),  and  from  thence  we 
proceeded  to  the  bureau  of  the  interior,  a magnificent 
edifice,  which  had  formerly  been  the  casa  of  the  Inquisition, 
where  we  had  an  interview  with  Oliban,  whom  Galiano 
took  aside  to  the  window,  and  there  held  with  him  a long 
conversation,  which,  as  they  spoke  in  whispers,  and  the 
room  was  immensely  large,  I did  not  hear.  At  length 
Galiano  came  to  me  and  said,  “ There  is  some  difficulty 
with  respect  to  this  business  of  yours,  but  I have  told 
Oliban  that  you  are  a friend  of  mine,  and  he  says  that 
that  is  sufficient;  remain  with  him  now,  and  he  will  do 
anything  to  oblige  you;  your  affair  is  settled — farewell 
whereupon  he  departed  and  I remained  with  Oliban, 
who  proceeded  forthwith  to  write  something,  which  having 
concluded,  he  took  out  a box  of  cigars,  and  having  lighted 
one  and  offered  me  another,  which  I declined  as  I do  not 
smoke,  he  placed  his  feet  against  the  table,  and  thus  pro- 
ceeded to  address  me,  speaking  in  the  French  language. 

“ It  is  with  great  pleasure  that  I see  you  in  this  capital, 
and,  I may  say,  upon  this  business.  I consider  it  a disgrace 
to  Spain  that  there  is  no  edition  of  the  Gospel  in  circulation, 
at  least  such  a one  as  would  be  within  the  reach  of  all 
classes  of  society,  the  highest  or  poorest;  one  unencumbered 
with  notes  and  commentaries,  human  devices,  swelling  it 
to  an  unwieldy  bulk.  I have  no  doubt  that  such  an  edition 
as  you  propose  to  print,  would  have  a most  beneficial 
influence  on  the  minds  of  the  people,  who,  between  our- 
selves, know  nothing  of  pure  religion;  how  should  they? 
seeing  that  the  Gospel  has  always  been  sedulously  kept 
from  them,  just  as  if  civilization  could  exist  where  the 
light  of  the  Gospel  beameth  not.  The  moral  regeneration 
of  Spain  depends  upon  the  free  circulation  of  the  Scriptures; 
to  which  alone  England,  your  own  happy  country,  is 
indebted  for  its  high  state  of  civilization,  and  the  unmatched 
prosperity  which  it  at  present  enjoys;  all  this  I admit, 
in  fact,  reason  compels  me  to  do  so,  but  ” 

“ Now  for  it,"  thought  I. 

“ But  ” — and  then  he  began  to  talk  once  more  of  the 
wearisome  Council  of  Trent,  and  I found  that  his  writing 
in  the  paper,  the  offer  of  the  cigar,  and  the  long  and  prosy 
harangue  were — what  shall  I call  it? — mere  cp\vapla. 

By  this  time  the  spring  was  far  advanced,  the  sides 


134 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


though  not  the  tops  of  the  Guadarama  hills  had  long 
since  lost  their  snows;  the  trees  of  the  Prado  had  donned 
their  full  foliage,  and  all  the  Campina  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Madrid  smiled  and  was  happy:  the  summer  heats 

had  not  commenced,  and  the  weather  was  truly  delicious. 

Towards  the  west,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which 
stands  Madrid,  is  a canal  running  parallel  with  the  Manza- 
nares  for  some  leagues,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
pleasant  and  fertile  meadows.  The  banks  of  this  canal, 
which  was  begun  by  Carlos  Tercero,  and  has  never  been 
completed,  are  planted  with  beautiful  trees,  and  form 
the  most  delightful  walk  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
capital.  Here  I would  loiter  for  hours  looking  at  the 
shoals  of  gold  and  silver  fish  which  basked  on  the  surface 
of  the  green  sunny  waters,  or  listening,  not  to  the  warbling 
of  birds — for  Spain  is  not  the  land  of  feathered  choristers — 
but  to  the  prattle  of  the  narangero  or  man  who  sold  oranges 
and  water  by  a little  deserted  watch  tower  just  opposite 
the  wooden  bridge  that  crosses  the  canal,  which  situation 
he  had  chosen  as  favourable  for  his  trade,  and  there  had 
placed  his  stall.  He  was  an  Asturian  by  birth,  about 
fifty  years  of  age,  and  about  five  feet  high.  As  I purchased 
freely  of  his  fruit,  he  soon  conceived  a great  friendship 
for  me,  and  told  me  his  history;  it  contained,  however, 
nothing  very  remarkable,  the  leading  incident  being  an 
adventure  which  had  befallen  him  amidst  the  mountains 
of  Granada,  where,  falling  into  the  hands  of  certain  Gypsies, 
they  stripped  him  naked,  and  then  dismissed  him  with  a 
sound  cudgelling.  “ I have  wandered  throughout  Spain,” 
said  he,  “ and  I have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  there 
are  but  two  places  worth  living  in,  Malaga  and  Madrid. 
At  Malaga  everything  is  very  cheap,  and  there  is  such  an 
abundance  of  fish,  that  I have  frequently  seen  them  piled 
in  heaps  on  the  sea-shore:  and  as  for  Madrid,  money  is 
always  stirring  at  the  Gorte,  and  I never  go  supperless 
to  bed;  my  only  care  is  to  sell  my  oranges,  and  my  only 
hope  that  when  I die  I shall  be  buried  yonder.” 

And  he  pointed  across  the  Manzanares,  where,  on  the 
declivity  of  a gentle  hill,  at  about  a league's  distance, 
shone  brightly  in  the  sunshine  the  white  walls  of  the  Campo 
Santo,  or  common  burying  ground  of  Madrid. 

He  was  a fellow  of  infinite  drollery,  and,  though  he 
could  scarcely  read  or  write,  by  no  means  ignorant  of 
the  ways  of  the  world;  his  knowledge  of  individuals  was 
curious  and  extensive,  few  people  passing  his  stall  with 
whose  names,  character,  and  history  he  was  not  acquainted. 
“ Those  two  gentry,”  said  he,  pointing  to  a magnificently 
dressed  cavalier  and  lady,  who  .had  dismounted  from  a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


135 


carriage,  and  arm  in  arm  were  coming  across  the  wooden 
bridge,  followed  by  two  attendants;  “ those  gentry  are 
the  Infante  Francisco  Paulo,  and  his  wife  the  Neapolitana, 
sister  of  our  Christina;  he  is  a very  good  subject,  but  as 
for  his  wife — vaya — the  veriest  scold  in  Madrid;  she  can 
say  carrajo  with  the  most  ill-conditioned  carrier  of  La 
Mancha,  giving  the  true  emphasis  and  genuine  pronuncia- 
tion. Don't  take  off  your  hat  to  her,  amigo — she  has 
neither  formality  nor  politeness — I once  saluted  her,  and 
she  took  no  more  notice  of  me  than  if  I had  not  been  what 
I am,  an  Asturian  and  a gentleman,  of  better  blood  than 
herself.  Good  day,  Senor  Don  Francisco.  Que  tal  ( how 
goes  z7)?  very  fine  weather  this — vaya  su  merced  con  Dios. 
Those  three  fellows  who  just  stopped  to  drink  water  are 
great  thieves,  true  sons  of  the  prison;  I am  always  civil 
to  them,  for  it  would  not  do  to  be  on  ill  terms;  they  pay 
me  or  not,  just  as  they  think  proper.  I have  been  in  some 
trouble  on  their  account:  about  a year  ago  they  robbed 
a man  a little  farther  on  beyond  the  second  bridge.  By 
the  way,  I counsel  you,  brother,  not  to  go  there,  as  I believe 
you  often  do — it  is  a dangerous  place.  They  robbed  a 
gentleman  and  ill-treated  him,  but  his  brother,  who  was  an 
escribano,  was  soon  upon  their  trail,  and  had  them  arrested ; 
but  he  wanted  someone  to  identify  them,  and  it  chanced 
that  they  had  stopped  to  drink  water  at  my  stall,  just 
as  they  did  now.  This  the  escribano  heard  of,  and  forth- 
with had  me  away  to  the  prison  to  confront  me  with  them. 
I knew  them  well  enough,  but  I had  learnt  in  my  travels 
when  to  close  my  eyes  and  when  to  open  them;  so  I told 
the  escribano  that  I could  not  say  that  I had  ever  seen 
them  before.  He  was  in  a great  rage  and  threatened  to 
imprison  me;  I told  him  he  might  and  that  I cared  not. 
Vaya,  I was  not  going  to  expose  myself  to  the  resentment 
of  those  three  and  to  that  of  their  friends;  I live  too  near 
the  Flay  Market  for  that.  Good  day,  my  young  masters. — 
Murcian  oranges,  as  you  see;  the  genuine  dragon's  blood. 
Water  sweet  and  cold.  Those  two  boys  are  the  children 
of  Gabiria,  comptroller  of  the  queen's  household,  and  the 
richest  man  in  Madrid;  they  are  nice  boys,  and  buy  much 
fruit.  It  is  said  their  father  loves  them  more  than  all  his 
possessions.  The  old  woman  who  is  lying  beneath  yon 
tree  is  the  Tia  Lucilla;  she  has  committed  murders,  and 
as  she  owes  me  money,  I hope  one  day  to  see  her  executed. 
This  man  was  of  the  Walloon  guard; — Senor  Don  Benito 
Mol,  how  do  you  do?  ” 

This  last  named  personage  instantly  engrossed  my 
attention;  he  was  a bulky  old  man,  somewhat  above 
the  middle  height,  with  white  hair  and  ruddy  features; 


136 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


his  eyes  were  large  and  blue,  and  whenever  he  fixed  them 
on  any  one’s  countenance,  were  full  of  an  expression  of 
great  eagerness,  as  if  he  were  expecting  the  communication 
of  some  important  tidings.  He  was  dressed  commonly 
enough,  in  a jacket  and  trousers  of  coarse  cloth  of  a russet 
colour,  on  his  head  was  an  immense  sombrero,  the  brim 
of  which  had  been  much  cut  and  mutilated,  so  as  in  some 
places  to  resemble  the  jags  or  denticles  of  a saw.  He 
returned  the  salutation  of  the  orange-inan,  and  bowing 
to  me,  forthwith  produced  two  scented  wash-balls  which 
he  offered  for  sale  in  a rough  dissonant  jargon,  intended 
for  Spanish,  but  which  seemed  more  like  the  Valencian 
or  Catalan. 

Upon  my  asking  him  who  he  was,  the  following  con- 
versation ensued  between  us: 

“ I am  a Swiss  of  Lucerne,  Benedict  Mol  by  name, 
once  a soldier  in  the  Walloon  guard,  and  now  a soap-boiler, 
at  your  service.” 

“ You  speak  the  language  of  Spain  very  imperfectly,” 
said  I;  “ how  long  have  you  been  in  the  country?  ” 

“ Forty-five  years,”  replied  Benedict;  “ but  when  the 
guard  was  broken  up,  I went  to  Minorca,  where  I lost  the 
Spanish  language  without  acquiring  the  Catalan.” 

“ You  have  been  a soldier  of  the  king  of  Spain,”  said 
I;  “ how  did  you  like  the  service?  ” 

“ Not  so  well,  but  that  I should  have  been  glad  to 
leave  it  forty  years  ago;  the  pay  was  bad,  and  the  treat- 
ment worse.  I will  now  speak  Swiss  to  you,  for,  if  I am 
not  much  mistaken,  you  are  a German  man,  and  under- 
stand the  speech  of  Lucerne;  I should  soon  have  deserted 
from  the  service  of  Spain,  as  I did  from  that  of  the  Pope, 
whose  soldier  I was  in  my  early  youth  before  I came  here; 
but  I had  married  a woman  of  Minorca,  by  whom  I had 
two  children;  it  was  this  that  detained  me  in  those  parts 
so  long;  before,  however,  I left  Minorca,  my  wife  died, 
and  as  for  my  children,  one  went  east,  the  other  west, 
and  I know  not  what  became  of  them;  I intend  shortly 
to  return  to  Lucerne,  and  live  there  like  a duke.” 

“ Have  you,  then,  realized  a large  capital  in  Spain?  ” 
said  I,  glancing  at  his  hat  and  the  rest  of  his  apparel. 

“ Not  a cuart,  not  a cuart;  these  two  wash-balls  are 
all  that  I possess.” 

“ Perhaps  you  are  the  son  of  good  parents,  and  have 
lands  and  money  in  your  own  country  wherewith  to  support 
yourself.” 

“ Not  a heller,  not  a heller;  my  father  was  hangman 
of  Lucerne,  and  when  he  died,  his  body  was  seized  to 
pay  his  debts.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


137 


" Then  doubtless/'  said  I,  “ you  intend  to  ply  your 
trade  of  soap-boiling  at  Lucerne;  you  are  quite  right, 
my  friend,  I know  of  no  occupation  more  honourable  or 
useful." 

“ I have  no  thoughts  of  plying  my  trade  at  Lucerne," 
replied  Bennet;  “ and  now,  as  I see  you  are  a German 
man,  Lieber  Herr,  and  as  I like  your  countenance  and 
your  manner  of  speaking,  I will  tell  you  in  confidence 
that  I know  very  little  of  my  trade,  and  have  already 
been  turned  out  of  several  fabriques  as  an  evil  workman; 
the  two  wash-balls  that  I carry  in  my  pocket  are  not  of 
my  own  making.  In  kurtzen,  I know  little  more  of  soap- 
boiling than  I do  of  tailoring,  horse-farriery,  or  shoe-making, 
all  of  which  I have  practised." 

“ Then  I know  not  how  you  can  hope  to  live  like  a 
hertzog  in  your  native  canton,  unless  you  expect  that 
the  men  of  Lucerne,  in  consideration  of  your  services 
to  the  Pope  and  to  the  king  of  Spain,  will  maintain  you 
in  splendour  at  the  public  expense." 

“ Lieber  Herr,"  said  Benedict,  “ the  men  of  Lucerne 
are  by  no  means  fond  of  maintaining  the  soldiers  of  the 
Pope  and  the  king  of  Spain  at  their  own  expense;  many 
of  the  guard  who  have  returned  thither  beg  their  bread 
in  the  streets,  but  when  I go,  it  shall  be  in  a coach  drawn 
by  six  mules,  with  a treasure,  a mighty  schatz  which  lies 
in  the  church  of  Saint  James  of  Compostella,  in  Galicia." 

“ I hope  you  do  not  intend  to  rob  the  church,"  said 
I;  “ if  you  do,  however,  I believe  you  will  be  disappointed. 
Mendizabal  and  the  liberals  have  been  beforehand  with 
you.  I am  informed  that  at  present  no  other  treasure 
is  to  be  found  in  the  cathedrals  of  Spain  than  a few  paltry 
ornaments  and  plated  utensils." 

“ My  good  German  Herr,"  said  Benedict,  “ it  is  no 
church  schatz,  and  no  person  living,  save  myself,  knows 
of  its  existence:  nearly  thirty  years  ago,  amongst  the 

sick  soldiers  who  were  brought  to  Madrid,  was  one  of 
my  comrades  of  the  Walloon  Guard,  who  had  accompanied 
the  French  to  Portugal;  he  was  very  sick  and  shortly  died. 
Before,  however,  he  breathed  his  last,  he  sent  for  me, 
and  upon  his  death-bed  told  me  that  himself  and  two 
other  soldiers,  both  of  whom  had  since  been  killed,  had 
buried  in  a certain  church  at  Compostella  a great  booty 
which  they  had  made  in  Portugal:  it  consisted  of  gold 
moidores  and  of  a packet  of  huge  diamonds  from  the  Brazils; 
the  whole  was  contained  in  a large  copper  kettle.  I 
listened  with  greedy  ears,  and  from  that  moment,  I may 
say,  I have  known  no  rest,  neither  by  day  nor  night,  thinking 
of  the  schatz.  It  is  very  easy  to  find,  for  the  dying  man 


138 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


was  so  exact  in  his  description  of  the  place  where  it  lies, 
that  were  I once  at  Compostella,  I should  have  no  difficulty 
in  putting  my  hand  upon  it;  several  times  I have  been  on 
the  point  of  setting  out  on  the  journey,  but  something 
has  always  happened  to  stop  me.  When  my  wife  died, 
I left  Minorca  with  a determination  to  go  to  Saint  James, 
but  on  reaching  Madrid,  I fell  into  the  hands  of  a Basque 
woman,  who  persuaded  me  to  live  with  her,  which  I have 
done  for  several  years;  she  is  a great  hax,*  and  says  that 
if  I desert  her  she  will  breathe  a spell  which  shall  cling  to 
me  for  ever.  Dem  Got  sey  dank , — she  is  now  in  the  hospital, 
and  daily  expected  to  die.  This  is  my  history,  Lieber 
Herr.” 

I have  been  the  more  careful  in  relating  the  above  con- 
versation, as  I shall  have  frequent  occasion  to  mention 
the  Swiss  in  the  course  of  these  journals;  his  subsequent 
adventures  were  highly  extraordinary,  and  the  closing 
one  caused  a great  sensation  in  Spain. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

State  of  Spain — Isturitz — Revolution  of  the  Granja — The  Disturbance 
— Signs  of  Mischief — Newspaper  Reporters — Quesada’s  Onslaught 
— The  Closing  Scene  — Flight  of  the  Moderados  — The  Coffee 
Bowl. 

In  the  meantime  the  affairs  of  the  moderados  did  not 
proceed  in  a very  satisfactory  manner;  they  were  un- 
popular at  Madrid,  and  still  more  so  in  the  other  large 
towns  of  Spain,  in  most  of  which  juntas  had  been  formed, 
which,  taking  the  local  administration  into  their  own  hands, 
declared  themselves  independent  of  the  queen  and  her 
ministers,  and  refused  to  pay  taxes;  so  that  the  govern- 
ment was  within  a short  time  reduced  to  great  straits 
for  money;  the  army  was  unpaid,  and  the  war  languished; 
I mean  on  the  part  of  the  Christinos,  for  the  Carlists  were 
pushing  it  on  with  considerable  vigour;  parties  of  their 
guerillas  scouring  the  country  in  all  directions,  whilst 
a large  division,  under  the  celebrated  Gomez,  was  making 
the  entire  circuit  of  Spain.  To  crown  the  whole,  an 
insurrection  was  daily  expected  at  Madrid,  to  prevent 
which  the  nationals  were  disarmed,  which  measure  tended 
greatly  to  increase  their  hatred  against  the  moderado 
government,  and  especially  against  Quesada,  with  whom 
it  was  supposed  to  have  originated. 

♦Witch.  Ger.  Hexe. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


139 


With  respect  to  my  own  matters,  I lost  no  opportunity 
of  pushing  forward  my  application ; the  Aragonese  secretary, 
however,  still  harped  upon  the  Council  of  Trent,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  baffling  all  my  efforts.  He  appeared  to  have 
inoculated  his  principal  with  his  own  ideas  upon  the  subject, 
for  the  duke,  when  he  beheld  me  at  his  levees,  took  no 
farther  notice  of  me  than  by  a contemptuous  glance;  and 
once,  when  I stepped  up  for  the  purpose  of  addressing  him, 
disappeared  through  a side  door,  and  I never  saw  him 
again,  for  I was  disgusted  with  the  treatment  which  I had 
received,  and  forebore  paying  any  more  visits  at  the  Casa 
de  la  Inquisicion.  Poor  Galiano  still  proved  himself  my 
unshaken  friend,  but  candidly  informed  me  that  there  was 
no  hope  of  my  succeeding  in  the  above  quarter.  “ The 
duke,”  said  he,  “ says  that  your  request  cannot  be  granted; 
and  the  other  day,  when  I myself  mentioned  it  in  the 
council,  began  to  talk  of  the  decision  of  Trent,  and  spoke 
of  yourself  as  a plaguy  pestilent  fellow;  whereupon  I 
answered  him  with  some  acrimony,  and  there  ensued  a 
bit  of  a funcion  between  us,  at  which  Isturitz  laughed 
heartily.  By  the  by,”  continued  he,  “ what  need  have 
you  of  a regular  permission,  which  it  does  not  appear 
that  any  one  has  authority  to  grant.  The  best  thing 
that  you  can  do  under  all  circumstances  is  to  commit  the 
work  to  the  press,  with  an  understanding  that  you  shall 
not  be  interfered  with  when  you  attempt  to  distribute 
it.  I strongly  advise  you  to  see  Isturitz  himself  upon 
the  matter.  I will  prepare  him  for  the  interview,  and 
will  answer  that  he  receives  you  civilly.” 

In  fact,  a few  days  afterwards,  I had  an  interview 
with  Isturitz  at  the  palace,  and  for  the  sake  of  brevity 
I shall  content  myself  with  saying  that  I found  him 
perfectly  well  disposed  to  favour  my  views.  “ I have 
lived  long  in  England,”  said  he;  “ the  Bible  is  free  there, 
and  I see  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  free  in  Spain 
also.  I am  not  prepared  to  say  that  England  is  indebted 
for  her  prosperity  to  the  knowledge  which  all  her  children, 
more  or  less,  possess  of  the  sacred  writings;  but  of  one 
thing  I am  sure,  namely,  that  the  Bible  has  done  no  harm 
in  that  country,  nor  do  I believe  that  it  will  effect  any  in 
Spain;  print  it,  therefore,  by  all  means,  and  circulate  it 
as  extensively  as  possible.”  I retired,  highly  satisfied 
with  my  interview,  having  obtained,  if  not  a written 
permission  to  print  the  sacred  volume,  what,  under  all 
circumstances,  I considered  as  almost  equivalent,  an 
understanding  that  my  biblical  pursuits  would  be  tolerated 
in  Spain;  and  I had  fervent  hope  that  whatever  was  the 
fate  of  the  present  ministry,  no  future  one,  particularly 


140 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a liberal  one,  would  venture  to  interfere  with  me,  more 
especially  as  the  English  ambassador  was  my  friend,  and 
was  privy  to  all  the  steps  I had  taken  throughout  the 
whole  affair. 

Two  or  three  things  connected  with  the  above  interview 
with  Isturitz  struck  me  as  being  highly  remarkable.  First 
of  all,  the  extreme  facility  with  which  I obtained  admission 
to  the  presence  of  the  prime  minister  of  Spain.  I had 
not  to  wait,  or  indeed  to  send  in  my  name,  but  was  intro- 
duced at  once  by  the  door-keeper.  Secondly,  the  air  of 
loneliness  which  pervaded  the  place,  so  unlike  the  bustle, 
noise,  and  activity  which  I observed  when  I waited  on 
Mendizabal.  In  this  instance,  there  were  no  eager  candi- 
dates for  an  interview  with  the  great  man;  indeed,  I did 
not  behold  a single  individual,  with  the  exception  of  Isturitz 
and  the  official.  But  that  which  made  the  most  profound 
impression  upon  me,  was  the  manner  of  the  minister 
himself,  who,  when  I entered,  sat  upon  a sofa,  with  his 
arms  folded,  and  his  eyes  directed  to  the  ground.  When 
he  spoke  there  was  extreme  depression  in  the  tones  of  his 
voice,  his  dark  features  wore  an  air  of  melancholy,  and  he 
exhibited  all  the  appearance  of  a person  meditating  to 
escape  from  the  miseries  of  this  life  by  the  most  desperate 
of  all  acts — suicide. 

And  a few  days  showed  that  he  had,  indeed,  cause  for 
much  melancholy  meditation:  in  less  than  a week  occurred 
the  revolution  of  the  Granja,  as  it  is  called.  The  Granja, 
or  Grange,  is  a royal  country  seat,  situated  amongst  pine 
forests,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Guadarama  hills,  about 
twelve  leagues  distant  from  Madrid.  To  this  place  the 
queen  regent  Christina  had  retired,  in  order  to  be  aloof 
from  the  discontent  of  the  capital,  and  to  enjoy  rural  air 
and  amusements  in  this  celebrated  retreat,  a monument 
of  the  taste  and  magnificence  of  the  first  Bourbon  who 
ascended  the  throne  of  Spain.  She  was  not,  however, 
permitted  to  remain  long  in  tranquillity;  her  own  guards 
were  disaffected,  and  more  inclined  to  the  principles  of 
the  constitution  of  1823  than  to  those  of  absolute  monarchy, 
which  the  moderados  were  attempting  to  revive  again 
in  the  government  of  Spain.  Early  one  morning,  a party 
of  these  soldiers,  headed  by  a certain  Sergeant  Garcia, 
entered  her  apartment,  and  proposed  that  she  should 
subscribe  her  hand  to  this  constitution,  and  swear  solemnly 
to  abide  by  it.  Christina,  however,  who  was  a woman 
of  considerable  spirit,  refused  to  comply  with  this  proposal, 
and  ordered  them  to  withdraw.  A scene  of  violence  and 
tumult  ensued,  but  the  regent  still  continuing  firm,  the 
soldiers  at  length  led  her  down  to  one  of  the  courts  of  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


141 


palace,  where  stood  her  well-known  paramour,  Munos, 
bound  and  blindfolded.  “ Swear  to  the  constitution,  you 
she-rogue,,,  vociferated  the  swarthy  sergeant.  “ Never  1 ” 
said  the  spirited  daughter  of  the  Neapolitan  Bourbons. 
“ Then  your  cortejo  shall  die!  ” replied  the  sergeant. 
“ Ho ! ho ! my  lads ; get  ready  your  arms,  and  send  four 
bullets  through  the  fellow’s  brain.”  Munos  was  forthwith 
led  to  the  wall,  and  compelled  to  kneel  down,  the  soldiers 
levelled  their  muskets  and  another  moment  would  have 
consigned  the  unfortunate  wight  to  eternity,  when  Christina, 
forgetting  everything  but  the  feelings  of  her  woman’s 
heart,  suddenly  started  forward  with  a shriek,  exclaiming: 
" Hold,  hold!  I sign,  I sign!  ” 

The  day  after  this  event  I entered  the  Puerta  del  Sol 
at  about  noon.  There  is  always  a crowd  there  about 
this  hour,  but  it  is  generally  a very  quiet  motionless  crowd, 
consisting  of  listless  idlers  calmly  smoking  their  cigars, 
or  listening  to  or  retailing  the— in  general — very  dull 
news  of  the  capital;  but  on  the  day  of  which  I am  speaking 
the  mass  was  no  longer  inert.  There  was  much  gesticula- 
tion and  vociferation,  and  several  people  were  running 
about  shouting,  “Viva  la  constitution!” — a cry  which, 
a few  days  previously,  would  have  been  visited  on  the 
utterer  with  death,  the  city  having  for  some  weeks  past 
been  subjected  to  the  rigour  of  martial  law.  I occasionally 
heard  the  words,  “La  Granja  ! La  Gran]  a ! ” Which 
words  were  sure  to  be  succeeded  by  the  shout  of  “ Viva 
la  constitution ! ” Opposite  the  Casa  de  Postas  were 
drawn  up  in  a line  about  a dozen  mounted  dragoons,  some 
of  whom  were  continually  waving  their  caps  in  the  air 
and  joining  the  common  cry,  in  which  they  were  encouraged 
by  their  commander,  a handsome  young  officer,  who 
flourished  his  sword,  and  more  than  once  cried  out  with 
great  glee,  “ Long  live  the  constitutional  queen!  Long 
live  the  constitution!  ” 

The  crowd  was  rapidly  increasing,  and  several  nationals 
made  their  appearance  in  their  uniforms,  but  without 
their  arms,  of  which  they  had  been  deprived,  as  I have 
already  stated.  “ What  has  become  of  the  moderado 
government?  ” said  I to  Baltasar,  whom  I suddenly  ob- 
served amongst  the  crowd,  dressed  as  when  I had  first  seen 
him,  in  his  old  regimental  great  coat  and  foraging  cap; 
“ have  the  ministers  been  deposed  and  others  put  in  their 
place?  ” 

“ Not  yet,  Don  Jorge,”  said  the  little  soldier-tailor; 
“ not  yet;  the  scoundrels  still  hold  out,  relying  on  the 
brute  bull  Quesada  and  a few  infantry,  who  still  continue 
true  to  them;  but  there  is  no  fear,  Don  Jorge;  the  queen 


142 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


is  ours,  thanks  to  the  courage  of  my  friend  Garcia,  and 
if  the  brute  bull  should  make  his  appearance — ho!  ho! 
Don  Jorge,  you  shall  see  something — I am  prepared  for 
him,  ho!  ho!  ” and  thereupon  he  half  opened  his  great 
coat,  and  showed  me  a small  gun,  which  he  bore  beneath 
it  in  a sling,  and  then  moving  away  with  a wink  and  a nod, 
disappeared  amongst  the  crowd. 

Presently  I perceived  a small  body  of  soldiers  ad- 
vancing up  the  Calle  Mayor,  or  principal  street  which  runs 
from  the  Puerta  del  Sol  in  the  direction  of  the  palace; 
they  might  be  about  twenty  in  number,  and  an  officer 
marched  at  their  head  with  a drawn  sword;  the  men 
appeared  to  have  been  collected  in  a hurry,  many  of  them 
being  in  fatigue  dress,  with  foraging  caps  on  their  heads. 
On  they  came,  slowly  marching;  neither  their  officer  nor 
themselves  paying  the  slightest  attention  to  the  cries  of 
the  crowd  which  thronged  about  them,  shouting  “ Long 
live  the  constitution!  ” save  and  except  by  an  occasional 
surly  side  glance:  on  they  marched  with  contracted  brows 
and  set  teeth,  till  they  came  in  front  of  the  cavalry,  where 
they  halted  and  drew  up  in  a rank. 

“ Those  men  mean  mischief,”  said  I to  my  friend 

D , of  the  Morning  Chronicle,  who  at  this  moment  joined 

me;  “ and  depend  upon  it,  that  if  they  are  ordered  they 
will  commence  firing,  caring  nothing  whom  they  hit, — 
but  what  can  those  cavalry  fellows  behind  them  mean, 
who  are  evidently  of  the  other  opinion  by  their  shouting; 
why  don’t  they  charge  at  once  this  handful  of  foot  people 
and  overturn  them?  Once  down,  the  crowd  would  wrest 
from  them  their  muskets  in  a moment.  You  are  a liberal, 
which  I am  not;  why  do  you  not  go  to  that  silly  young 
man  who  commands  the  horse  and  give  him  a word  of 
counsel  in  time?  ” 

D turned  upon  me  his  broad  red  good-humoured  * 

English  countenance,  with  a peculiarly  arch  look,  as  much 

as  to  say (whatever  you  think  most  applicable,  gentle 

reader),  then  taking  me  by  the  arm,  “ Let  us  get/’  said  he, 

“ out  of  this  crowd  and  mount  to  some  window,  where 
I can  write  down  what  is  about  to  take  place,  for  I agree 
with  you  that  mischief  is  meant.”  Just  opposite  the 
post  office  was  a large  house,  in  the  topmost  story  of  which 
we  beheld  a paper  displayed,  importing  that  apartments 
were  to  let;  whereupon  we  instantly  ascended  the  common 
stair,  and  having  agreed  with  the  mistress  of  the  etage 
for  the  use  of  the  front  room  for  the  day,  we  bolted  the  door, 
and  the  reporter,  producing  his  pocket-book  and  pencil, 
prepared  to  take  notes  of  the  coming  events,  which  were 
already  casting  their  shadow  before. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


143 


What  most  extraordinary  men  are  these  reporters  of 
newspapers  in  general,  I mean  English  newspapers;  surely 
if  there  be  any  class  of  individuals  who  are  entitled  to  the 
appellation  of  cosmopolites,  it  is  these;  who  pursue  their 
avocation  in  all  countries  indifferently,  and  accommodate 
themselves  at  will  to  the  manners  of  all  classes  of  society: 
their  fluency  of  style  as  writers  is  only  surpassed  by  their 
facility  of  language  in  conversation,  and  their  attainments 
in  classical  and  polite  literature  only  by  their  profound 
knowledge  of  the  world,  acquired  by  an  early  introduction 
into  its  bustling  scenes.  The  activity,  energy,  and  courage 
which  they  occasionally  display  in  the  pursuit  of  information 
are  truly  remarkable.  I saw  them  during  the  three  days  at 
Paris,  mingled  with  canaille  and  gamins  behind  the  barriers, 
whilst  the  mitraille  was  flying  in  all  directions,  and  the 
desperate  cuirassiers  were  dashing  their  fierce  horses  against 
these  seemingly  feeble  bulwarks.  There  stood  they, 
dotting  down  their  observations  in  their  pocket-books  as 
unconcernedly  as  if  reporting  the  proceedings  of  a reform 
meeting  in  Covent  Garden  or  Finsbury  Square;  whilst  in 
Spain,  several  of  them  accompanied  the  Carlist  and  Christino 
guerillas  in  some  of  their  most  desperate  raids  and  ex- 
peditions, exposing  themselves  to  the  danger  of  hostile 
bullets,  the  inclemency  of  winter,  and  the  fierce  heat  of  the 
summer  sun. 

We  had  scarcely  been  five  minutes  at  the  window,  when 
we  suddenly  heard  the  clattering  of  horses’  feet  hastening 
down  the  street  called  the  Calle  de  Carretas.  The  house  in 
which  we  had  stationed  ourselves  was,  as  I have  already 
observed,  just  opposite  to  the  post  office,  at  the  left  of  which 
this  street  debouches  from  the  north  into  the  Puerta  del 
Sol:  as  the  sounds  became  louder  and  louder,  the  cries  of  the 
crowd  below  diminished,  and  a species  of  panic  seemed  to 
have  fallen  upon  all:  once  or  twice,  however,  I could 

distinguish  the  words  Quesada ! Quesada ! The  foot  soldiers 
stood  calm  and  motionless,  but  I observed  that  the  cavalry, 
with  the  young  officer  who  commanded  them,  displayed  both 
confusion  and  fear,  exchanging  with  each  other  some  hurried 
words;  all  of  a sudden  that  part  of  the  crowd  which  stood 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Calle  de  Carretas  Jell  back  in  great 
disorder,  leaving  a considerable  space  unoccupied,  and  the 
next  moment  Quesada,  in  complete  general’s  uniform,  and 
mounted  on  a bright  bay  thorough  bred  English  horse,  with 
a drawn  sword  in  his  hand,  dashed  at  full  gallop  into  the 
area,  in  much  the  same  manner  as  I have  seen  a Manchegan 
bull  rush  into  the  amphitheatre  when  the  gates  of  his  pen 
are  suddenly  flung  open. 

He  was  closely  followed  by  two  mounted  officers,  and  at 


144 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a short  distance  by  as  many  dragoons.  In  almost  less  time 
than  is  sufficient  to  relate  it,  several  individuals  in  the 
crowd  were  knocked  down  and  lay  sprawling  upon  the 
ground,  beneath  the  horses  of  Quesada  and  his  two  friends, 
for  as  to  the  dragoons,  they  halted  as  soon  as  they  had  entered 
the  Puerta  del  Sol.  It  was  a fine  sight  to  see  three  men, 
by  dint  of  valour  and  good  horsemanship,  strike  terror  into 
at  least  as  many  thousands:  I saw  Quesada  spur  his  horse 
repeatedly  into  the  dense  masses  of  the  crowd,  and  then 
extricate  himself  in  the  most  masterly  manner.  The  rabble 
were  completely  awed  and  gave  way,  retiring  by  the  Galle 
del  Comercio  and  the  street  of  Alcala.  All  at  once,  Quesada 
singled  out  two  nationals,  who  were  attempting  to  escape, 
and  setting  spurs  to  his  horse,  turned  them  in  a moment, 
and  drove  them  in  another  direction,  striking  them  in  a 
contemptuous  manner  with  the  flat  of  his  sabre.  He  was 
crying  out,  “ Long  live  the  absolute  queen!  ” when,  just 
beneath  me,  amidst  a portion  of  the  crowd  which  had  still 
maintained  its  ground,  perhaps  from  not  having  the  means 
of  escaping,  I saw  a small  gun  glitter  for  a moment,  then 
there  was  a sharp  report,  and  a bullet  had  nearly  sent 
Quesada  to  his  long  account,  passing  so  near  to  the  counten- 
ance of  the  general  as  to  graze  his  hat.  I had  an  indistinct 
view  for  a moment  of  a well-known  foraging  cap  just  about 
the  spot  from  whence  the  gun  had  been  discharged,  then 
there  was  a rush  of  the  crowd,  and  the  shooter,  whoever  he 
was,  escaped  discovery  amidst  the  confusion  which  arose. 

As  for  Quesada,  he  seemed  to  treat  the  danger  from  which 
he  had  escaped  with  the  utmost  contempt.  He  glared 
about  him  fiercely  for  a moment,  then  leaving  the  two 
nationals,  who  sneaked  away  like  whipped  hounds,  he  went 
up  to  the  young  officer  who  commanded  the  cavalry,  and 
who  had  been  active  in  raising  the  cry  of  the  constitution, 
and  to  him  he  addressed  a few  words  with  an  air  of  stern 
menace;  the  youth  evidently  quailed  before  him,  and 
probably  in  obedience  to  his  orders,  resigned  the  command 
of  the  party,  and  rode  slowly  away  with  a discomfited  air; 
whereupon  Quesada  dismounted  and  walked  slowly  back- 
wards and  forwards  before  the  Casa  de  Postas  with  a mien 
which  seemed  to  bid  defiance  to  mankind. 

This  was  the  glorious  day  of  Quesada’s  existence,  his 
glorious  and  last  day.  I call  it  the  day  of  his  glory,  for  he 
certainly  never  before  appeared  under  such  brilliant  cir- 
cumstances, and  he  never  lived  to  see  another  sun  set.  No 
action  of  any  conqueror  or  hero  on  record  is  to  be  compared 
with  this  closing  scene  of  the  life  of  Quesada,  for  who,  by  his 
single  desperate  courage  and  impetuosity,  ever  before 
stopped  a revolution  in  full  course?  Quesada  did:  he 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


145 


stopped  the  revolution  at  Madrid  for  one  entire  day,  and 
brought  back  the  uproarious  and  hostile  mob  of  a huge  city 
to  perfect  order  and  quiet.  His  burst  into  the  Puerta  del 
Sol  was  the  most  tremendous  and  successful  piece  of  daring 
ever  witnessed.  I admired  so  much  the  spirit  of  the  “ brute 
bull  ” that  I frequently,  during  his  wild  onset,  shouted 
“ Viva  Quesada!  ” for  I wished  him  well.  Not  that  I am 
of  any  political  party  or  system.  No,  no!  I have  lived 
too  long  with  Rommany  Chals  and  Petulengres  * to  be  of 
any  politics  save  Gypsy  politics;  and  it  is  well  known  that, 
during  elections,  the  children  of  Roma  side  with  both  parties 
so  long  as  the  event  is  doubtful,  promising  success  to  each; 
and  then  when  the  fight  is  done,  and  the  battle  won,  in- 
variably range  themselves  in  the  ranks  of  the  victorious. 
But  I repeat  that  I wished  well  to  Quesada,  witnessing,  as  I 
did,  his  stout  heart  and  good  horsemanship.  Tranquillity 
was  restored  to  Madrid  throughout  the  remainder  of  the  day; 
the  handful  of  infantry  bivouacked  in  the  Puerta  del  Sol. 
No  more  cries  of  long  live  the  constitution  were  heard; 
and  the  revolution  in  the  capital  seemed  to  have  been 
effectually  put  down.  It  is  probable,  indeed,  that  had  the 
chiefs  of  the  moderado  party  but  continued  true  to  them- 
selves for  forty-eight  hours  longer,  their  cause  would  have 
triumphed,  and  the  revolutionary  soldiers  at  the  Granja 
would  have  been  glad  to  restore  the  Queen  Regent  to  liberty, 
and  to  have  come  to  terms,  as  it  was  well  known  that  several 
regiments,  who  still  continued  loyal,  were  marching  upon 
Madrid.  The  moderados,  however,  were  not  true  to  them- 
selves; that  very  night  their  hearts  failed  them,  and  they 
fled  in  various  directions.  Isturitz  and  Galiano  to  France; 
and  the  Duke  of  Rivas  to  Gibraltar:  the  panic  of  his 
colleagues  even  infected  Quesada,  who,  disguised  as  a civilian, 
took  to  flight.  He  was  not,  however,  so  successful  as  the 
rest,  but  was  recognised  at  a village  about  three  leagues  from 
Madrid,  and  cast  into  prison  by  some  friends  of  the  con- 
stitution. Intelligence  of  his  capture  was  instantly  trans- 
mitted to  the  capital,  and  a vast  mob  of  the  nationals, 
some  on  foot,  some  on  horseback,  and  others  in  cabriolets, 
instantly  set  out.  “ The  nationals  are  coming,”  said  a 
paisano  to  Quesada.  “ Then,”  said  he,  “ I am  lost,”  and 
forthwith  prepared  himself  for  death. 

There  is  a celebrated  coffee-house  in  the  Calle  d’ Alcala 
at  Madrid,  capable  of  holding  several  hundred  individuals. 
On  the  evening  of  the  day  in  question,  I was  seated  there, 
sipping  a cup  of  the  brown  beverage,  when  I heard  a pro- 

* A compound  of  the  modern  Greek  xtraXov,  and  the  Sanskrit  km,  the 
literal  meaning  being  Lord  of  the  horse-shoe  (i.e.  maker) ; it  is  one  of  the 
private  cognominations  of  “ The  Smiths,”  an  English  Gypsy  clan. 


146 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


digious  noise  and  clamour  in  the  street;  it  proceeded  from 
the  nationals,  who  were  returning  from  their  expedition. 
In  a few  minutes  I saw  a body  of  them  enter  the  coffee-house 
inarching  arm  in  arm,  two  by  two,  stamping  on  the  ground 
with  their  feet  in  a kind  of  measure,  and  repeating  in  loud 
chorus  as  they  walked  round  the  spacious  apartment,  the 
following  grisly  stanza: — 

“ Que  es  lo  que  abaja 
Por  aquel  cerro  ? 

Ta  ra  ra  ra  ra. 

Son  los  huesos  de  Quesada, 

Que  los  trae  un  perro — 

Ta  ra  ra  ra  ra  * 

A huge  bowl  of  coffee  was  then  called  for,  which  was  placed 
upon  a table,  around  which  gathered  the  national  soldiers: 
there  was  silence  for  a moment,  which  was  interrupted  by 
a voice  roaring  out,  “ el  panuelo ! ” A blue  kerchief  was 
forthwith  produced,  which  appeared  to  contain  a substance 
of  some  kind;  it  was  untied,  and  a gory  hand  and  three  or 
four  dissevered  fingers  made  their  appearance,  and  with 
these  the  contents  of  the  bowl  were  stirred  up.  “ Gups! 
cups!  ” cried  the  nationals. 

“ Ho,  ho,  Don  Jorge,”  cried  Baltasarito,  coming  up  to 
me  with  a cup  of  coffee,  “ pray  do  me  the  favour  to  drink 
upon  this  glorious  occasion.  This  is  a pleasant  day  for 
Spain,  and  for  the  gallant  nationals  of  Madrid.  I have  seen 
many  a bull  funcion,  but  none  which  has  given  me  so  much 
pleasure  as  this.  Yesterday  the  brute  had  it  all  his  own 
way,  but  to-day  the  toreros  have  prevailed,  as  you  see,  Don 
Jorge.  Pray  drink;  for  I must  now  run  home  to  fetch  my 
pajandi  to  play  my  brethren  a tune,  and  sing  a copla. 
What  shall  it  be?  Something  in  Gitano? 

“ Una  noche  sinava  en  tucue.” 

You  shake  your  head,  Don  Jorge.  Ha,  ha;  I am  young, 
and  youth  is  the  time  for  pleasure ; well,  well,  out  of  compli- 
ment to  you,  who  are  an  Englishman  and  a monro,  it  shall 
not  be  that,  but  something  liberal,  something  patriotic, 
the  Hymn  of  Riego — Hasta  despues,  Don  Jorge!  ” 

* Of  these  lines  the  following  translation,  in  the  style  of  the  old  English 
ballad,  will,  perhaps,  not  be  unacceptable  : — 

“ What  down  the  hill  comes  hurrying  there  ? — 

With  a hey,  with  a ho,  a sword,  and  a gun  ! 

Quesada’s  bones,  which  a hound  doth  bear. — 

Hurrah,  brave  brothers  ! — the  work  is  done.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


147 


CHAPTER  XV 

Tlic  Steamer — Cape  Finisterre — The  Storm — Arrival  at  Cadiz — The  New 

Testament — Seville — Italica — The  Amphitheatre— The  Prisoners — 

The  Encounter — Baron  Taylor — The  Street  and  Desert. 

At  the  commencement  of  November,  I again  found  myself 
on  the  salt  water,  on  my  way  to  Spain.  I had  returned  to 
England  shortly  after  the  events  which  have  been  narrated 
in  the  last  chapter,  for  the  purpose  of  consulting  with  my 
friends,  and  for  planning  the  opening  of  a biblical  campaign 
in  Spain.  It  was  now  determined  by  us  to  print  the  New 
Testament,  with  as  little  delay  as  possible,  at  Madrid;  and 
I was  to  be  entrusted  with  the  somewhat  arduous  task  of  its 
distribution.  My  stay  in  England  was  very  short,  for  time 
was  precious,  and  I was  eager  to  return  to  the  field  of 
action. 

I embarked  in  the  Thames,  on  board  the  M steamer. 

We  had  a most  unpleasant  passage  to  Falmouth;  the  ship 
was  crowded  with  passengers,  most  of  them  poor  consumptive 
individuals,  and  other  invalids  fleeing  from  the  cold  blasts 
of  England's  winter  to  the  sunny  shores  of  Portugal  and 
Madeira.  In  a more  uncomfortable  vessel,  especially  steam 
ship,  it  has  never  been  my  fate  to  make  a voyage.  The 
berths  were  small  and  insupportably  close,  and  of  these 
wretched  holes  mine  was  amongst  the  worst,  the  rest  having 
been  bespoken  before  I arrived  on  board;  so  that  to  avoid 
the  suffocation  which  seemed  to  threaten  me  should  I enter 
it,  I lay  upon  the  floor  of  one  of  the  cabins  throughout  the 
voyage.  We  remained  at  Falmouth  twenty-four  hours, 
taking  in  coal,  and  repairing  the  engine,  which  had  sustained 
considerable  damage. 

On  Monday,  the  seventh,  we  again  started,  and  made 
for  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  The  sea  was  high  and  the  wind 
strong  and  contrary;  nevertheless,  on  the  morning  of  the 
fourth  day,  we  were  in  sight  of  the  rocky  coast  to  the  north 
of  Gape  Finisterre.  I must  here  observe,  that  this  was  the 
first  voyage  that  the  captain  who  commanded  the  vessel 
had  ever  made  on  board  of  her,  and  that  he  knew  little  or 
nothing  of  the  coast  towards  which  we  were  bearing.  He 
was  a person  picked  up  in  a hurry,  the  former  captain  having 
resigned  his  command  on  the  ground  that  the  ship  was  not  sea- 
worthy, and  that  the  engines  were  frequently  unserviceable. 
I was  not  acquainted  with  these  circumstances  at  the  time, 
or  perhaps  I should  have  felt  more  alarmed  than  I did, 


148 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

when  I saw  the  vessel  approaching  nearer  and  nearer  the 
shore,  till  at  last  we  were  only  a few  hundred  yards  distant. 
As  it  was,  however,  I felt  very  much  surprised;  for  having 
passed  it  twice  before,  both  times  in  steam  vessels,  and 
having  seen  with  what  care  the  captains  endeavoured  to 
maintain  a wide  offing,  I could  not  conceive  the  reason  of  our 
being  now  so  near  this  dangerous  region.  The  wind  was 
blowing  hard  towards  the  shore,  if  that  can  be  called  a shore 
which  consists  of  steep  abrupt  precipices,  on  which  the  surf 
was  breaking  with  the  noise  of  thunder,  tossing  up  clouds  of 
spray  and  foam  to  the  height  of  a cathedral.  We  coasted 
slowly  along,  rounding  several  tall  forelands,  some  of  them 
piled  up  by  the  hand  of  nature  in  the  most  fantastic  shapes. 
About  nightfall  Gape  Finisterre  was  not  far  ahead, — a bluff, 
brown,  granite  mountain,  whose  frowning  head  may  be 
seen  far  away  by  those  who  traverse  the  ocean.  The  stream 
which  poured  round  its  breast  was  terrific,  and  though  our 
engines  plied  with  all  their  force,  we  made  little  or  no  way. 

By  about  eight  o'clock  at  night  the  wind  had  increased 
to  a hurricane,  the  thunder  rolled  frightfully,  and  the  only 
light  which  we  had  to  guide  us  on  our  way  was  the  red  forked 
lightning,  which  burst  at  times  from  the  bosom  of  the  big 
black  clouds  which  lowered  over  our  heads.  We  were 
exerting  ourselves  to  the  utmost  to  weather  the  cape,  which 
we  could  descry  by  the  lightning  on  our  lee,  its  brow  being 
frequently  brilliantly  lighted  up  by  the  flashes  which 
quivered  around  it,  when  suddenly,  with  a great  crash, 
the  engine  broke,  and  the  paddles,  on  which  depended  our 
lives,  ceased  to  play. 

I will  not  attempt  to  depict  the  scene  of  horror  and 
confusion  which  ensued;  it  may  be  imagined,  but  never 
described.  The  captain,  to  give  him  his  due,  displayed  the 
utmost  coolness  and  intrepidity;  he  and  the  whole  crew 
made  the  greatest  exertions  to  repair  the  engine,  and  when 
they  found  their  labour  in  vain,  endeavoured,  by  hoisting 
the  sails,  and  by  practising  all  possible  manoeuvres,  to  preserve 
the  ship  from  impending  destruction ; but  all  was  of  no  avail, 
we  were  hard  on  a lee  shore,  to  which  the  howling  tempest 
was  impelling  us.  About  this  time  I was  standing  near  the 
helm,  and  I asked  the  steersman  if  there  was  any  hope  of 
saving  the  vessel,  or  our  lives.  He  replied,  “ Sir,  it  is  a bad 
affair,  no  boat  could  live  for  a minute  in  this  sea,  and  in 
less  than  an  hour  the  ship  will  have  her  broadside  on 
Finisterre,  where  the  strongest  man-of-war  ever  built  must 
go  to  shivers  instantly — none  of  us  will  see  the  morning.” 
The  captain,  likewise,  informed  the  other  passengers  in  the 
cabin  to  the  same  effect,  telling  them  to  prepare  themselves; 
and  having  done  so,  he  ordered  the  door  to  be  fastened, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


149 


and  none  to  be  permitted  to  come  on  deck.  I,  however, 
kept  my  station,  though  almost  drowned  with  water, 
immense  waves  continually  breaking  over  our  windward 
side  and  flooding  the  ship.  The  water  casks  broke  from 
their  lashings,  and  one  of  them  struck  me  down,  and 
crushed  the  foot  of  the  unfortunate  man  at  the  helm,  whose 
place  was  instantly  taken  by  the  captain.  We  were  now 
close  to  the  rocks,  when  a horrid  convulsion  of  the  elements 
took  place.  The  lightning  enveloped  us  as  with  a mantle, 
the  thunders  were  louder  than  the  roar  of  a million  cannon, 
the  dregs  of  the  ocean  seemed  to  be  cast  up,  and  in  the  midst 
of  all  this  turmoil,  the  wind,  without  the  slightest  intimation, 
veered  right  about , and  pushed  us  from  the  horrible  coast 
faster  than  it  had  previously  driven  us  towards  it. 

The  oldest  sailors  on  board  acknowledged  that  they 
had  never  witnessed  so  providential  an  escape.  I said, 
from  the  bottom  of  my  heart,  “ Our  Father — hallowed 
be  thy  name.” 

The  next  day  we  were  near  foundering,  for  the  sea 
was  exceedingly  high,  and  our  vessel,  which  was  not 
intended  for  sailing,  laboured  terribly,  and  leaked  much. 
The  pumps  were  continually  working.  She  likewise  took 
fire,  but  the  flames  were  extinguished.  In  the  evening 
the  steam-engine  was  partially  repaired,  and  we  reached 
Lisbon  on  the  thirteenth,  where  in  a few  days  we  completed 
our  repairs. 

I found  my  excellent  friend  W in  good  health. 

During  my  absence  he  had  been  doing  everything  in  his 
power  to  further  the  sale  of  the  sacred  volume  in  Portu- 
guese: his  zeal  and  devotedness  were  quite  admirable. 

The  distracted  state  of  the  country,  however,  during  the 
last  six  months,  had  sadly  impeded  his  efforts.  The  minds 
of  the  people  had  been  so  engrossed  with  politics,  that 
they  found  scarcely  any  time  to  think  of  the  welfare  of 
their  souls.  The  political  history  of  Portugal  had  of  late 
afforded  a striking  parallel  to  that  of  the  neighbouring 
country.  In  both  a struggle  for  supremacy  had  arisen 
between  the  court  and  the  democratic  party;  in  both 
the  latter  had  triumphed,  whilst  two  distinguished  indi- 
viduals had  fallen  a sacrifice  to  the  popular  fury — Freire 
in  Portugal,  and  Quesada  in  Spain.  The  news  which  reached 
me  at  Lisbon  from  the  latter  country  was  rather  startling. 
The  hordes  of  Gomez  were  ravaging  Andalusia,  which  I 
was  about  to  visit  on  my  way  to  Madrid;  Cordova  had 
been  sacked  and  abandoned  after  a three  days’  occupation 
by  the  Carlists.  I was  told  that  if  I persisted  in  my  attempt 
to  enter  Spain  in  the  direction  which  I proposed,  I should 
probably  fall  into  their  hands  at  Seville.  I had,  however, 


150 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


no  fears,  and  had  full  confidence  that  the  Lord  would  open 
the  path  before  me  to  Madrid. 

The  vessel  being  repaired,  we  again  embarked,  and  in 
two  days  arrived  in  safety  at  Cadiz.  I found  great  con- 
fusion reigning  there;  numerous  bands  of  the  factious 
were  reported  to  be  hovering  in  the  neighbourhood.  An 
attack  was  not  deemed  improbable,  and  the  place  had 
just  been  declared  in  a state  of  siege.  I took  up  my  abode 
at  the  French  hotel  in  the  Calle  de  la  Niveria,  and  was 
allotted  a species  of  cockloft,  or  garret,  to  sleep  in,  for  the 
house  was  filled  with  guests,  being  a place  of  much  resort, 
on  account  of  the  excellent  table  d'hote  which  is  kept 
there.  I dressed  myself  and  walked  about  the  town. 
I entered  several  coffee-houses:  the  din  of  tongues  in  all 
was  deafening.  In  one  no  less  than  six  orators  were 
haranguing  at  the  same  time  on  the  state  of  the  country, 
and  the  probability  of  an  intervention  on  the  part  of  Eng- 
land and  France.  As  I was  listening  to  one  of  them,  he 
suddenly  called  upon  me  for  my  opinion,  as  I was  a foreigner, 
and  seemingly  just  arrived.  I replied  that  I could  not 
venture  to  guess  what  steps  the  two  governments  would 
pursue  under  the  present  circumstances,  but  thought  that 
it  would  be  as  well  if  the  Spaniards  would  exert  themselves 
more  and  call  less  on  Jupiter.  As  I did  not  wish  to  engage 
in  any  political  conversation,  I instantly  quitted  the  house, 
and  sought  those  parts  of  the  town  where  the  lower  classes 
principally  reside. 

I entered  into  discourse  with  several  individuals,  but 
found  them  very  ignorant;  none  could  read  or  write, 
and  their  ideas  respecting  religion  were  anything  but 
satisfactory, — most  professing  a perfect  indifference.  I 
afterwards  went  into  a bookseller's  shop  and  made  inquiries 
respecting  the  demand  for  literature,  which,  he  informed 
me,  was  small.  I produced  a London  edition  of  the  New 
Testament  in  Spanish,  and  asked  the  bookseller  whether 
he  thought  a book  of  that  description  would  sell  in  Cadiz. 
He  said  that  both  the  type  and  paper  were  exceedingly 
beautiful,  but  that  it  was  a work  not  sought  after,  and 
very  little  known.  I did  not  pursue  my  inquiries  in  other 
shops,  for  I reflected  that  I was  not  likely  to  receive  a very 
favourable  opinion  from  booksellers  respecting  a publication 
in  which  they  had  no  interest.  I had,  moreover,  but  two 
or  three  copies  of  the  New  Testament  with  me,  and  could 
not  have  supplied  them  had  they  even  given  me  an  order. 

Early  on  the  twenty-fourth,  I embarked  for  Seville 
in  the  small  Spanish  steamer  the  Betis  : the  morning  was 
wet,  and  the  aspect  of  nature  was  enveloped  in  a dense 
mist,  which  prevented  my  observing  surrounding  objects. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


151 


After  proceeding  about  six  leagues,  we  reached  the  north- 
eastern extremity  of  the  Bay  of  Cadiz,  and  passed  by 
Saint  Lucar,  an  ancient  town  near  to  the  spot  where  the 
Guadalquivir  disembogues  itself.  The  mist  suddenly 
disappeared,  and  the  sun  of  Spain  burst  forth  in  full 
brilliancy,  enlivening  all  around,  and  particularly  myself, 
who  had  till  then  been  lying  on  the  deck  in  a dull  melancholy 
stupor.  We  entered  the  mouth  of  “ The  Great  River/' 
for  that  is  the  English  translation  of  Oued  al  Kiber,  as  the 
Moors  designated  the  ancient  Betis.  We  came  to  anchor 
for  a few  minutes  at  a little  village  called  Bonanza,  at 
the  extremity  of  the  first  reach  of  the  river,  where  we 
received  several  passengers,  and  again  proceeded.  There 
is  not  much  in  the  appearance  of  the  Guadalquivir  to 
interest  the  traveller:  the  banks  are  low  and  destitute  of 
trees,  the  adjacent  country  is  flat,  and  only  in  the  distance 
is  seen  a range  of  tall  blue  sierras.  The  water  is  turbid 
and  muddy,  and  in  colour  closely  resembling  the  contents 
of  a duck-pool;  the  average  width  of  the  stream  is  from 
a hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  yards,  but  it  is  im- 
possible to  move  along  this  river  without  remembering 
that  it  has  borne  the  Roman,  the  Vandal,  and  the  Arab, 
and  has  been  the  witness  of  deeds  which  have  resounded 
through  the  world  and  been  the  themes  of  immortal  songs. 
I repeated  Latin  verses  and  fragments  of  old  Spanish  ballads 
till  we  reached  Seville,  at  about  nine  o'clock  of  a lovely 
moonlight  night. 

Seville  contains  ninety  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is 
situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Guadalquivir,  about 
eighteen  leagues  from  its  mouth;  it  is  surrounded  with 
high  Moorish  walls,  in  a good  state  of  preservation,  and 
built  of  such  durable  materials  that  it  is  probable  they 
will  for  many  centuries  still  bid  defiance  to  the  encroach- 
ments of  time.  The  most  remarkable  edifices  are  the 
cathedral  and  Alcazar,  or  palace  of  the  Moorish  kings; 
the  tower  of  the  former,  called  La  Giralda,  belongs  to  the 
period  of  the  Moors,  and  formed  part  of  the  grand  mosque 
of  Seville:  it  is  computed  to  be  one  hundred  ells  in  height, 
and  is  ascended  not  by  stairs  or  ladders  but  by  a vaulted 
pathway,  in  the  manner  of  an  inclined  plane:  this  path  is 
by  no  means  steep,  so  that  a cavalier  might  ride  up  to  the 
top,  a feat  which  Ferdinand  the  Seventh  is  said  to  have 
accomplished.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  very  extensive, 
and  on  a fine  clear  day  the  mountain  ridge,  called  the  Sierra 
de  Ronda,  may  be  discovered,  though  upwards  of  twenty 
leagues  distant.  The  cathedral  itself  is  a noble  Gothic 
structure,  reputed  the  finest  of  the  kind  in  Spain.  In 
the  chapels  allotted  to  the  various  saints  are  some  of  the 


152 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


most  magnificent  paintings  which  Spanish  art  has  produced; 
indeed  the  Cathedral  of  Seville  is  at  the  present  time  far 
more  rich  in  splendid  paintings  than  at  any  former  period; 
possessing  many  very  recently  removed  from  some  of  the 
suppressed  convents,  particularly  from  the  Capuchin  and 
San  Francisco. 

No  one  should  visit  Seville  without  paying  particular 
attention  to  the  Alcazar,  that  splendid  specimen  of  Moorish 
architecture.  It  contains  many  magnificent  halls/  par- 
ticularly that  of  the  ambassadors,  so  called,  which  is  in 
every  respect  more  magnificent  than  the  one  of  the  same 
name  within  the  Alhambra  of  Granada.  This  palace  was 
a favourite  residence  of  Peter  the  Cruel,  who  carefully 
repaired  it  without  altering  its  Moorish  character  and 
appearance.  It  probably  remains  in  much  the  same 
state  as  at  the  time  of  his  death. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  river  is  a large  suburb,  called 
Triana,  communicating  with  Seville  by  means  of  a bridge 
of  boats;  for  there  is  no  permanent  bridge  across  the 
Guadalquivir,  owing  to  the  violent  inundations  to  which 
it  is  subject.  This  suburb  is  inhabited  by  the  dregs  of 
the  populace,  and  abounds  with  Gitanos  or  Gypsies.  About 
a league  and  a half  to  the  north-west  stands  the  village 
of  Santo  Ponce:  at  the  foot  and  on  the  side  of  some  elevated 
ground  higher  up  are  to  be  seen  vestiges  of  ruined  walls 
and  edifices,  which  once  formed  part  of  Italica,  the  birth- 
place of  Silius  Italicus  and  Trajan,  from  which  latter 
personage  Triana  derives  its  name. 

One  fine  morning  I walked  thither,  and  having  ascended 
the  hill,  I directed  my  course  northward.  I soon  reached 
what  had  once  been  bagnios,  and  a little  farther  on,  in 
a kind  of  valley  between  two  gentle  declivities,  the  amphi- 
theatre. This  latter  object  is  by  far  the  most  considerable 
relic  of  ancient  Italica;  it  is  oval  in  its  form,  with  two 
gateways  fronting  the  east  and  west. 

On  all  sides  are  to  be  seen  the  time-worn  broken  granite 
benches,  from  whence  myriads  of  human  beings  once 
gazed  down  on  the  area  below,  where  the  gladiator  shouted, 
and  the  lion  and  the  leopard  yelled:  all  around,  beneath 
these  flights  of  benches,  are  vaulted  excavations  from 
whence  the  combatants,  part  human  part  bestial,  darted 
forth  by  their  several  doors.  I spent  many  hours  in  this 
singular  place,  forcing  my  way  through  the  wild  fennel 
and  brushwood  into  the  caverns,  now  the  haunts  of  adders 
and  other  reptiles,  whose  hissings  I heard.  Having  sated 
my  curiosity,  I left  the  ruins,  and  returning  by  another 
way,  reached  a place  where  lay  the  carcass  of  a horse 
half  devoured;  upon  it,  with  lustrous  eyes,  stood  an  enor- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


153 


mous  vulture,  who,  as  I approached,  slowly  soared  aloft 
till  he  alighted  on  the  eastern  gate  of  the  amphitheatre, 
from  whence  he  uttered  a hoarse  cry,  as  if  in  anger  that 
I had  disturbed  him  from  his  feast  of  carrion. 

Gomez  had  not  hitherto  paid  a visit  to  Seville:  when 
I arrived  he  was  said  to  be  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ronda. 
The  city  was  under  watch  and  ward:  several  gates  had 
been  blocked  up  with  masonry,  trenches  dug,  and  redoubts 
erected,  but  I am  convinced  that  the  place  would  not 
have  held  out  six  hours  against  a resolute  attack.  Gomez 
had  proved  himself  to  be  a most  extraordinary  man,  and 
with  his  small  army  of  Aragonese  and  Basques  had,  within 
the  last  four  months,  made  the  tour  of  Spain.  He  had 
very  frequently  been  hemmed  in  by  forces  three  times 
the  number  of  his  own,  in  places  whence  escape  appeared 
impossible,  but  he  had  always  baffled  his  enemies,  whom 
he  seemed  to  laugh  at.  The  most  absurd  accounts  of 
victories  gained  over  him  were  continually  issuing  from 
the  press  at  Seville;  amongst  others,  it  was  stated  that 
his  army  had  been  utterly  defeated,  himself  killed,  and 
that  twelve  hundred  prisoners  were  on  their  way  to  Seville. 
I saw  these  prisoners:  instead  of  twelve  hundred  desper- 
adoes, they  consisted  of  about  twenty  poor  lame  ragged 
wretches,  many  of  them  boys  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  years 
of  age.  They  were  evidently  camp  followers,  who,  unable 
to  keep  up  with  the  army,  had  Been  picked  up  straggling 
in  the  plains  and  amongst  the  hills. 

It  subsequently  appeared  that  no  battle  had  occurred, 
and  that  the  death  of  Gomez  was  a fiction.  The  grand 
defect  of  Gomez  consisted  in  not  knowing  how  to  take 
advantage  of  circumstances:  after  defeating  Lopez,  he 

might  have  marched  to  Madrid  and  proclaimed  Don  Carlos 
there,  and  after  sacking  Cordova  he  might  have  captured 
Seville. 

There  were  several  booksellers'  shops  at  Seville,  in  two 
of  which  I found  copies  of  the  New  Testament  in  Spanish, 
which  had  been  obtained  from  Gibraltar  about  two  years 
before,  since  which  time  six  copies  had  been  sold  in  one 
shop  and  four  in  the  other.  The  person  who  generally 
accompanied  me  in  my  walks  about  the  town  and  the 
neighbourhood,  was  an  elderly  Genoese,  who  officiated  as 
a kind  of  valet  de  place  in  the  Posada  del  Turco,  where  I 
had  taken  up  my  residence.  On  learning  from  me  that  it 
was  my  intention  to  bring  out  an  edition  of  the  New 
Testament  at  Madrid,  he  observed  that  copies  of  the  work 
might  be  extensively  circulated  in  Andalusia.  “ I have 
been  accustomed  to  bookselling,"  he  continued,  “ and  at 
one  time  possessed  a small  shop  of  my  own  in  this  place. 


154 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Once  having  occasion  to  go  to  Gibraltar,  I procured  several 
copies  of  the  Scriptures;  some,  it  is  true,  were  seized  by 
the  officers  of  the  customs,  but  the  rest  I sold  at  a high 
price,  and  with  considerable  profit  to  myself.” 

I had  returned  from  a walk  in  the  country,  on  a glorious 
sunshiny  morning  of  the  Andalusian  winter,  and  was 
directing  my  steps  towards  my  lodging:  as  I was  passing 
by  the  portal  of  a large  gloomy  house  near  the  gate  of 
Xeres,  two  individuals  dressed  in  zamarras  emerged  from 
the  archway,  and  were  about  to  cross  my  path,  when 
one,  looking  in  my  face,  suddenly  started  back,  exclaiming 
in  the  purest  and  most  melodious  French:  “ What  do  I see? 
If  my  eyes  do  not  deceive  me — it  is  himself.  Yes,  the 
very  same  as  I saw  him  first  at  Bayonne;  then  long  subse- 
quently beneath  the  brick  wall  at  Novogorod;  then  beside 
the  Bosphorus;  and  last  at— at — Oh,  my  respectable  and 
cherished  friend,  where  was  it  that  I had  last  the  felicity 
of  seeing  your  well -remembered  and  most  remarkable 
physiognomy?  ” 

Myself. — It  was  in  the  south  of  Ireland,  if  I mistake 
not.  Was  it  not  there  that  I introduced  you  to  the 
sorcerer  who  tamed  the  savage  horses  by  a single  whisper 
into  their  ear?  But  tell  me  what  brings  you  to  Spain 
and  Andalusia,  the  last  place  where  I should  have  expected 
to  find  you? 

Baron  Taylor . — And  wherefore,  my  most  respectable 

B ? Is  not  Spain  the  land  of  the  arts;  and  is  not 

Andalusia  of  all  Spain  that  portion  which  has  produced 
the  noblest  monuments  of  artistic  excellence  and  inspira- 
tion? Surely  you  know  enough  of  me  to  be  aware  that 
the  arts  are  my  passion;  that  I am  incapable  of  imagining 
a more  exalted  enjoyment  than  to  gaze  in  adoration  on 
a noble  picture.  O come  with  me!  for  you  too  have  a 
soul  capable  of  appreciating  what  is  lovely  and  exalted; 
a soul  delicate  and  sensitive.  Gome  with  me,  and  I will 

show  you  a Murillo,  such  as . But  first  allow  me  to 

introduce  you  to  your  compatriot.  My  dear  Monsieur 
W.,  turning  to  his  companion  (an  English  gentleman 
from  whom  and  from  his  family  I subsequently  experienced 
unbounded  kindness  and  hospitality  on  various  occasions, 
and  at  different  periods  at  Seville),  allow  me  to  introduce 
to  you  my  most  cherished  and  respectable  friend,  one  who 
is  better  acquainted  with  Gypsy  ways  than  the  Chef  des 
Bohemiens  a Triana,  one  who  is  an  expert  whisperer  and 
horse-sorcerer,  and  who,  to  his  honour  I say  it,  can  wield 
hammer  and  tongs,  and  handle  a horse-shoe  with  the 
best  of  the  smiths  amongst  the  Alpuj arras  of  Granada. 

In  the  course  of  my  travels  I have  formed  various 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


155 


friendships  and  acquaintances,  but  no  one  has  more 
interested  me  than  Baron  Taylor,  and  there  is  no  one 
for  whom  I entertain  a greater  esteem  and  regard.  To 
personal  and  mental  accomplishments  of  the  highest 
order  he  unites  a kindness  of  heart  rarely  to  be  met  with, 
and  which  is  continually  inducing  him  to  seek  for  oppor- 
tunities of  doing  good  to  his  fellow  creatures,  and  of 
contributing  to  their  happiness;  perhaps  no  person  in 
existence  has  seen  more  of  the  world  and  life  in  its  various 
phases  than  himself.  His  manners  are  naturally  to  the 
highest  degree  courtly,  yet  he  nevertheless  possesses  a 
disposition  so  pliable  that  he  finds  no  difficulty  in  accom- 
modating himself  to  all  kinds  of  company,  in  consequence 
of  which  he  is  a universal  favourite.  There  is  a mystery 
about  him,  which,  wherever  he  goes,  serves  not  a little 
to  increase  the  sensation  naturally  created  by  his  appear- 
ance and  manner.  Who  he  is,  no  one  pretends  to  assert 
with  downright  positiveness:  it  is  whispered,  however, 

that  he  is  a scion  of  royalty;  and  who  can  gaze  for  a 
moment  upon  that  most  graceful  figure,  that  most  intelli- 
gent but  singularly  moulded  countenance,  and  those  large 
and  expressive  eyes,  without  feeling  as  equally  convinced 
that  he  is  of  no  common  lineage,  as  that  he  is  no  common 
man.  Though  possessed  of  talents  and  eloquence  which 
would  speedily  have  enabled  him  to  attain  to  an  illustrious 
position  in  the  state,  he  has  hitherto,  and  perhaps  wisely, 
contented  himself  with  comparative  obscurity,  chiefly 
devoting  himself  to  the  study  of  the  arts  and  of  literature, 
of  both  of  which  he  is  a most  bounteous  patron. 

He  has,  notwithstanding,  been  employed  by  the  illustri- 
ous house  to  which  he  is  said  to  be  related  in  more  than  one 
delicate  and  important  mission,  both  in  the  East  and  the 
West,  in  which  his  efforts  have  uniformly  been  crowned  with 
complete  success.  He  was  now  collecting  masterpieces 
of  the  Spanish  school  of  painting,  which  were  destined  to 
adorn  the  saloons  of  the  Tuileries. 

He  has  visited  most  portions  of  the  earth,  and  it  is 
remarkable  enough  that  we  are  continually  encountering 
each  other  in  strange  places  and  under  singular  circum- 
stances. Whenever  he  descries  me,  whether  in  the  street 
or  the  desert,  the  brilliant  hall  or  amongst  Bedouin  haimas, 
at  Novogorod  or  Stambul,  he  flings  up  his  arms  and  exclaims, 
“ O ciel  1 I have  again  the  felicity  of  seeing  my  cherished  and 
most  respectable  B — — 


156 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Departure  for  Cordova — Carmona — German  Colonies — Language — The 

Sluggish  Horse  — Nocturnal  Welcome  — Carlist  Landlord  — Good 

Advice — Gomez — The  Old  Genoese — The  Two  Opinions. 

After  a sojourn  of  about  fourteen  days  at  Seville,  I departed 
for  Cordova.  The  diligence  had  for  some  time  past  ceased 
running,  owing  to  the  disturbed  state  of  the  province.  I 
had  therefore  no  resource  but  to  proceed  thither  on  horse- 
back. I hired  a couple  of  horses,  and  engaged  the  old 
Genoese,  of  whom  I have  already  had  occasion  to  speak,  to 
attend  me  as  far  as  Cordova,  and  to  bring  them  back. 
Notwithstanding  we  were  now  in  the  depths  of  winter,  the 
weather  was  beautiful,  the  days  sunny  and  brilliant,  though 
the  nights  were  rather  keen.  We  passed  by  the  little  town 
of  Alcala,  celebrated  for  the  ruins  of  an  immense  Moorish 
castle,  which  stand  on  a rocky  hill,  overhanging  a pictur- 
esque river.  The  first  night  we  slept  at  Carmona,  another 
Moorish  town,  distant  about  seven  leagues  from  Seville. 
Early  in  the  morning  we  again  mounted  and  departed. 
Perhaps  in  the  whole  of  Spain  there  is  scarcely  a finer 
Moorish  monument  of  antiquity  than  the  eastern  side  of  this 
town  of  Carmona,  which  occupies  the  brow  of  a lofty  hill, 
and  frowns  over  an  extensive  vega  or  plain,  which  extends 
for  leagues  unplanted  and  uncultivated,  producing  nothing 
but  brushwood  and  carasco.  Here  rise  tall  and  dusky  walls, 
with  square  towers  at  short  distances,  of  so  massive  a structure 
that  they  would  seem  to  bid  defiance  alike  to  the  tooth  of 
time  and  the  hand  of  man.  This  town,  in  the  time  of  the 
Moors,  was  considered  the  key  to  Seville,  and  did  not  submit 
to  the  Christian  arms  till  after  a long  and  desperate  siege: 
the  capture  of  Seville  followed  speedily  after.  The  vega 
upon  which  we  now  entered  forms  a part  of  the  grand 
despoblado  or  desert  of  Andalusia,  once  a smiling  garden, 
but  which  became  what  it  now  is  on  the  expulsion  of  the 
Moors  from  Spain,  when  it  was  drained  almost  entirely  of  its 
population.  The  towns  and  villages  from  hence  to  the 
Sierra  Morena,  which  divides  Andalusia  from  La  Mancha, 
are  few  and  far  between,  and  even  of  these  several  date  from 
the  middle  of  the  last  century,  when  an  attempt  was  made 
by  a Spanish  minister  to  people  this  wilderness  with  the 
children  of  a foreign  land. 

At  about  midday  we  arrived  at  a place  called  Moncloa, 
which  consisted  of  a venta,  and  a desolate-looking  edifice 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


157 


which  had  something  of  the  appearance  of  a chateau:  a 
solitary  palm  tree  raised  its  head  over  the  outer  wall.  We 
entered  the  venta,  tied  our  horses  to  the  manger,  and  having 
ordered  barley  for  them,  we  sat  down  before  a large  fire, 
which  burned  in  the  middle  of  the  venta.  The  host  and 
hostess  also  came  and  sat  down  beside  us.  “ They  are  evil 
people,”  said  the  old  Genoese  to  me  in  Italian,  “ and  this  is 
an  evil  house;  it  is  a harbouring  place  for  thieves,  and 
murders  have  been  committed  here,  if  all  tales  be  true.”  I 
looked  at  these  two  people  attentively;  they  were  both 
young,  the  man  apparently  about  twenty-five  years  of  age. 
He  was  a short  thick-made  churl,  evidently  of  prodigious 
strength;  his  features  were  rather  handsome,  but  with 
a gloomy  expression,  and  his  eyes  were  full  of  sullen  fire. 
His  wife  somewhat  resembled  him,  but  had  a countenance 
more  open  and  better  tempered;  but  what  struck  me  as 
most  singular  in  connexion  with  these  people,  was  the  colour 
of  their  hair  and  complexion;  the  latter  was  fair  and  ruddy, 
and  the  former  of  a bright  auburn,  both  in  striking  contrast 
to  the  black  hair  and  swarthy  visages  which  in  general 
distinguish  the  natives  of  this  province.  “ Are  you  an 
Andalusian?  ” said  I to  the  hostess.  “ I should  almost 
conclude  you  to  be  a German.” 

Hostess. — And  your  worship  would  not  be  very  wrong. 
It  is  true  that  I am  a Spaniard,  being  born  in  Spain,  but 
it  is  equally  true  that  I am  of  German  blood,  for  my  grand- 
parents came  from  Germany,  even  like  those  of  this  gentle- 
man, my  lord  and  husband. 

Myself. — And  what  chance  brought  your  grandparents 
into  this  country? 

Hostess. — Did  your  worship  never  hear  of  the  German 
colonies?  There  are  many  of  them  in  these  parts.  In 
old  times  the  land  was  nearly  deserted,  and  it  was  very 
dangerous  for  travellers  to  journey  along  the  waste,  owing 
to  the  robbers.  So  along  time  ago,  nearly  a hundred  years, 
as  I am  told,  some  potent  lord  sent  messengers  to  Germany, 
to  tell  the  people  there  what  a goodly  land  there  was  in  these 
parts  uncultivated  for  want  of  hands,  and  to  promise  every 
labourer  who  would  consent  to  come  and  till  it,  a house  and 
a yoke  of  oxen,  with  food  and  provision  for  one  year.  And 
in  consequence  of  this  invitation  a great  many  poor  families 
left  the  German  land  and  came  hither,  and  settled  down  in 
certain  towns  and  villages  which  had  been  prepared  for  them, 
which  places  were  called  German  colonies,  and  this  name 
they  still  retain. 

Myself. — And  how  many  of  these  colonies  may  there 
be? 

Hostess . — There  are  several,  both  on  this  side  of  Cordova 


158 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  the  other.  The  nearest  is  Luisiana,  about  two  leagues 
from  hence,  from  which  place  both  my  husband  and  myself 
come;  the  next  is  Carlota,  which  is  some  ten  leagues 
distant,  and  these  are  the  only  colonies  of  our  people  which 
I have  seen;  but  there  are  others  farther  on,  and  some, 
as  I have  heard  say,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Sierra  Morena. 

Myself. — And  do  the  colonists  still  retain  the  language 
of  their  forefathers? 

Hostess. — We  speak  Spanish,  or  rather  Andalusian,  and 
no  other  language.  A few,  indeed,  amongst  the  very  old 
people,  retain  a few  words  of  German,  which  they  acquired 
from  their  fathers,  who  were  born  in  the  other  country: 
but  the  last  person  amongst  the  colonists  who  could  under- 
stand a conversation  in  German,  was  the  aunt  of  my  mother, 
who  came  over  when  a girl.  When  I was  a child  I remember 
her  conversing  with  a foreign  traveller,  a countryman  of 
hers,  in  a language  which  I was  told  was  German,  and  they 
understood  each  other,  though  the  old  woman  confessed 
that  she  had  lost  many  words:  she  has  now  been  dead 
several  years. 

Myself. — Of  what  religion  are  the  colonists? 

Hostess. — They  are  Christians,  like  the  Spaniards,  and 
so  were  their  fathers  before  them.  Indeed,  I have  heard 
that  they  came  from  a part  of  Germany  where  the  Christian 
religion  is  as  much  practised  as  in  Spain  itself. 

Myself. — The  Germans  are  the  most  honest  people  in  the 
world:  being  their  legitimate  descendants  you  have  of 

course  no  thieves  amongst  you. 

The  hostess  glanced  at  me  for  a moment,  then  looked 
at  her  husband  and  smiled:  the  latter,  who  had  hitherto 
been  smoking  without  uttering  a word,  though  with  a 
peculiarly  surly  and  dissatisfied  countenance,  now  flung  the 
remainder  of  his  cigar  amongst  the  embers,  then  springing 
up  he  muttered  “ Disparate  I ” and  “ Conversacion! ” and 
went  abroad. 

“ You  touched  them  in  the  sore  place,  Signor,”  said  the 
Genoese,  after  we  had  left  Moncloa  some  way  behind  us. 
“ Were  they  honest  people  they  would  not  keep  that  venta; 
and  as  for  the  colonists,  I know  not  what  kind  of  people 
they  might  be  when  they  first  came  over,  but  at  present 
their  ways  are  not  a bit  better  than  those  of  the  Andalusians, 
but  rather  worse,  if  there  is  any  difference  at  all.” 

A short  time  before  sunset  of  the  third  day  after  our 
departure  from  Seville,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  Cuesta 
del  Espinal,  or  hill  of  the  thorn  tree,  at  about  two  leagues 
from  Cordova; — we  could  just  descry  the  walls  of  the  city, 
upon  which  the  last  beams  of  the  descending  luminary 
were  resting.  As  the  neighbourhood  in  which  we  were  was. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


159 


according  to  the  account  of  my  guide,  generally  infested 
with  robbers,  we  used  our  best  endeavours  to  reach  the 
town  before  the  night  should  have  entirely  closed  in.  We 
did  not  succeed,  however,  and  before  we  had  proceeded 
half  the  distance,  pitchy  darkness  overtook  us.  Throughout 
the  journey  we  had  been  considerably  delayed  by  the  badness 
of  our  horses,  especially  that  of  my  attendant,  which  ap- 
peared to  pay  no  regard  to  whip  or  spur;  his  rider  also  was 
no  horseman,  it  being  thirty  years,  as  he  at  length  confessed 
to  me,  since  he  last  mounted  in  a saddle.  Horses  soon 
become  aware  of  the  powers  of  their  riders,  and  the  brute  in 
question  was  disposed  to  take  great  advantage  of  the  fears 
and  weakness  of  the  old  man.  There  is  a remedy,  however, 
for  most  things  in  this  world.  I became  so  wearied  at  last 
at  the  snail's  pace  at  which  we  were  proceeding,  that  I 
fastened  the  bridle  of  the  sluggish  horse  to  the  crupper  of 
mine,  then  sparing  neither  spur  nor  cudgel,  I soon  forced 
my  own  horse  into  a kind  of  trot,  which  compelled  the  other 
to  make  some  use  of  his  legs.  He  twice  attempted  to  fling 
himself  down,  to  the  great  terror  of  his  aged  rider,  who 
frequently  entreated  me  to  stop  and  permit  him  to  dismount. 
I,  however,  took  no  notice  of  what  he  said,  but  continued 
spurring  and  cudgelling  with  unabated  activity,  and  with 
such  success,  that  in  less  than  half  an  hour  we  saw  lights 
close  before  us,  and  presently  came  to  a river  and  a bridge, 
which  crossing,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  gate  of  Cordova, 
without  having  broken  either  our  horses'  knees  or  our  own 
necks. 

We  passed  through  the  entire  length  of  the  town  ere 
we  reached  the  posada;  the  streets  were  dark  and  almost 
entirely  deserted.  The  posada  was  a large  building,  the 
windows  of  which  were  well  fenced  with  rejas,  or  iron  grating: 
no  light  gleamed  from  them,  and  the  silence  of  death  not 
only  seemed  to  pervade  the  house,  but  the  street  in  which 
it  was  situated.  We  knocked  for  a long  time  at  the  gate 
without  receiving  any  answer;  we  then  raised  our  voices 
and  shouted.  At  last  some  one  from  within  inquired  what 
we  wanted.  “ Open  the  door  and  you  will  see,"  we  replied. 
“ I shall  do  no  such  thing,"  answered  the  individual  from 
within,  “ until  I know  who  you  are."  “ We  are  travellers," 
said  I,  “ from  Seville."  “ Travellers,  are  you,"  said  the 
voice;  “ why  did  you  not  tell  me  so  before?  I am  not 
porter  at  this  house  to  keep  out  travellers.  Jesus  Maria 
knows  we  have  not  so  many  of  them  that  we  need  repulse 
any.  Enter,  cavalier,  and  welcome,  you  and  your 
company." 

He  opened  the  gate  and  admitted  us  into  a spacious 
courtyard,  and  then  forthwith  again  secured  the  gate 


160 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


with  various  bolts  and  bars.  " Are  you  afraid  that  the 
Carlists  should  pay  you  a visit/'  I demanded,  “ that  you 
take  so  much  precaution?  " “ It  is  not  the  Carlists  we  are 

afraid  of/'  replied  the  porter;  " they  have  been  here  already, 
and  did  us  no  damage  whatever.  It  is  certain  scoundrels 
of  this  town  that  we  are  afraid  of,  who  have  a spite  against 
the  master  of  the  house,  and  would  murder  both  him  and 
his  family,  could  they  but  find  an  opportunity." 

I was  about  to  inquire  the  cause  of  this  enmity,  when 
a thick  bulky  man,  bearing  a light  in  his  hand,  came  running 
down  a stone  staircase,  which  led  into  the  interior  of  the 
building.  Two  or  three  females,  also  bearing  lights,  followed 
him.  He  stopped  on  the  lowest  stair.  “ Whom  have  we 
here?  " he  exclaimed;  then  advancing  the  lamp  which  he 
bore,  the  light  fell  full  upon  my  face.  “ Ola  I " he  exclaimed; 
“ Is  it  you?  Only  think,"  said  he,  turning  to  the  female 
who  stood  next  him,  a dark-featured  person,  stout  as  himself, 
and  about  his  own  age,  which  might  border  upon  fifty; 
“ Only  think,  my  dear,  that  at  the  very  moment  we  were 
wishing  for  a guest  an  Englishman  should  be  standing  before 
our  doors;  for  I should  know  an  Englishman  at  a mile's 
distance,  even  in  the  dark.  Juanito,"  cried  he  to  the  porter, 
" open  not  the  gate  any  more  to-night,  whoever  may  ask 
for  admission.  Should  the  nationals  come  to  make  any 
disturbance,  tell  them  that  the  son  of  Belington  ( Wellington ) 
is  in  the  house  ready  to  attack  them  sword  in  hand  unless 
they  retire;  and  should  other  travellers  arrive,  which  is  not 
likely,  inasmuch  as  we  have  seen  none  for  a month  past, 
say  that  we  have  no  room,  all  our  apartments  being  occupied 
by  an  English  gentleman  and  his  company." 

I soon  found  that  my  friend  the  posadero  was  a most 
egregious  Carlist.  Before  I had  finished  supper — during 
which,  both  himself  and  all  his  family  wTere  present,  sur- 
rounding the  little  table  at  which  I sat,  and  observing 
my  every  motion,  particularly  the  manner  in  which  I handled 
my  knife  and  fork  and  conveyed  the  food  to  my  mouth — he 
commenced  talking  politics:  “ I am  of  no  particular  opinion, 
Don  Jorge,"  said  he,  for  he  had  inquired  my  name  in  order 
that  he  might  address  me  in  a suitable  manner;  “ I am  of 
no  particular  opinion,  and  I hold  neither  for  King  Carlos 
nor  for  the  Ghica  Isabel:  nevertheless,  I lead  the  life  of  a 
dog  in  this  accursed  Christino  town,  which  I would  have  left 
long  ago,  had  it  not  been  the  place  of  my  birth,  and  did  I 
but  know  whither  to  betake  myself.  Ever  since  the  troubles 
have  commenced,  I have  been  afraid  to  stir  into  the  street, 
for  no  sooner  do  the  canaille  of  the  town  see  me  turning  round 
a corner,  than  they  forthwith  exclaim,  ‘ Halloo,  the  Carlist  1 ' 
and  then  there  is  a run  and  a rush,  and  stones  and  cudgels 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


161 


are  in  great  requisition:  so  that  unless  I can  escape  home, 
which  is  no  easy  matter,  seeing  that  I weigh  eighteen  stone, 
my  life  is  poured  out  in  the  street,  which  is  neither  decent 
nor  convenient,  as  I think  you  will  acknowledge,  Don  Jorge! 
You  see  that  young  man,”  he  continued,  pointing  to  a tall 
swarthy  youth  who  stood  behind  my  chair,  officiating  as 
waiter;  “ he  is  my  fourth  son,  is  married,  and  does  not  live 
in  the  house,  but  about  a hundred  yards  down  the  street. 
He  was  summoned  in  a hurry  to  wait  upon  your  worship, 
as  is  his  duty:  know,  however,  that  he  has  come  at  the  peril 
of  his  life:  before  he  leaves  this  house  he  must  peep  into  the 
street  to  see  if  the  coast  is  clear,  and  then  he  must  run  like 
a partridge  to  his  own  door.  Garlists!  why  should  they 
call  my  family  and  myself  Garlists?  It  is  true  that  my 
eldest  son  was  a friar,  and  when  the  convents  were  suppressed 
betook  himself  to  the  royal  ranks,  in  which  he  has  been 
fighting  upwards  of  three  years;  could  I help  that?  Nor 
was  it  my  fault,  I trow,  that  my  second  son  enlisted  the  other 
day  with  Gomez  and  the  royalists  when  they  entered  Cordova. 
God  prosper  him,  I say;  but  I did  not  bid  him  go!  So 
far  from  being  a Carlist,  it  was  I who  persuaded  this  very 
lad  who  is  present  to  remain  here,  though  he  would  fain 
have  gone  with  his  brother,  for  he  is  a brave  lad  and  a true 
Christian.  Stay  at  home,  said  I,  for  what  can  I do  without 
you?  Who  is  to  wait  upon  the  guests  when  it  pleases  God 
to  send  them.  Stay  at  home,  at  least  till  your  brother, 
my  third  son,  comes  back,  for,  to  my  shame  be  it  spoken, 
Don  Jorge,  I have  a son  a soldier  and  a sergeant  in  the 
Christino  armies,  sorely  against  his  own  inclination,  poor 
fellow,  for  he  likes  not  the  military  life,  and  I have  been 
soliciting  his  discharge  for  years;  indeed,  I have  counselled 
him  to  maim  himself,  in  order  that  he  might  procure  his 
liberty  forthwith;  so  I said  to  this  lad,  Stay  at  home,  my 
child,  till  your  brother  comes  to  take  your  place  and  prevent 
our  bread  being  eaten  by  strangers,  who  would  perhaps  sell 
me  and  betray  me;  so  my  son  staid  at  home  as  you  see, 
Don  Jorge,  at  my  request,  and  yet  they  call  me  a Carlist?  " 
“ Gomez  and  his  bands  have  lately  been  in  Cordova/' 
said  I;  “ of  course  you  were  present  at  all  that  occurred: 
how  did  they  comport  themselves?  " 

“ Bravely  well,"  replied  the  innkeeper,  “ bravely  well, 
and  I wish  they  were  here  still.  I hold  with  neither 
side,  as  I told  you  before,  Don  Jorge,  but  I confess  I never 
felt  greater  pleasure  in  my  life  than  when  they  entered 
the  gate;  and  then  to  see  the  dogs  of  nationals  flying 
through  the  streets  to  save  their  lives — that  was  a sight, 
Don  Jorge — those  who  met  me  then  at  the  corner  forgot 
to  shout  ‘ Halloo,  Carlista!  ' and  I heard  not  a word  about 
33— f 


162 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


cudgelling;  some  jumped  from  the  wall  and  ran  no  one 
knows  where,  whilst  the  rest  retired  to  the  house  of  the 
Inquisition,  which  they  had  fortified,  and  there  they  shut 
themselves  up.  Now  you  must  know,  Don  Jorge,  that  all 
the  Carlist  chiefs  lodged  at  my  house,  Gomez,  Cabrera, 
and  the  Sawyer;  and  it  chanced  that  I was  talking  to  my 
Lord  Gomez  in  this  very  room  in  which  we  are  now,  when 
in  came  Cabrera  in  a mighty  fury — he  is  a small  man, 
Don  Jorge,  but  he  is  as  active  as  a wild  cat  and  as  fierce. 
‘ The  canaille/  said  he,  ‘ in  the  Casa  of  the  Inquisition 
refuse  to  surrender;  give  but  the  order,  General,  and  I 
will  scale  the  walls  with  my  men  and  put  them  all  to  the 
sword  but  Gomez  said,  ‘ No,  we  must  not  spill  blood 
if  we  can  avoid  it;  order  a few  muskets  to  be  fired  at  them, 
that  will  be  sufficient!  ' And  so  it  proved,  Don  Jorge, 
for  after  a few  discharges  their  hearts  failed  them,  and 
they  surrendered  at  discretion:  whereupon  their  arms 

were  taken  from  them  and  they  were  permitted  to  return 
to  their  own  houses;  but  as  soon  as  ever  the  Carlists 
departed,  these  fellows  became  as  bold  as  ever,  and  it  is 
now  once  more,  'Halloo,  Carlista!  * when  they  see  me 
turning  the  corner,  and  it  is  for  fear  of  them  that  my  son 
must  run  like  a partridge  to  his  own  home,  now  that  he  has 
done  waiting  on  your  worship,  lest  they  meet  him  in  the 
street  and  kill  him  with  their  knives!  ” 

“ You  tell  me  that  you  were  acquainted  with  Gomez: 
what  kind  of  man  might  he  be?  ” 

“ A middle-sized  man,”  replied  the  innkeeper;  “ grave 
and  dark.  But  the  most  remarkable  personage  in  appear- 
ance of  them  all  was  the  Sawyer:  he  is  a kind  of  giant, 
so  tall,  that  when  he  entered  the  doorway  he  invariably 
struck  his  head  against  the  lintel.  The  one  I liked  least 
of  all  was  one  Palillos,  who  is  a gloomy  savage  ruffian 
whom  I knew  when  he  was  a postillion.  Many  is  the 
time  that  he  has  been  at  my  house  of  old;  he  is  now  captain 
of  the  Manchegan  thieves,  for  though  he  calls  himself  a 
royalist,  he  is  neither  more  nor  less  than  a thief:  it  is  a 
disgrace  to  the  cause  that  such  as  he  should  be  permitted 
to  mix  with  honourable  and  brave  men;  I hate  that  fellow, 
Don  Jorge:  it  is  owing  to  him  that  I have  so  few  customers. 
Travellers  are,  at  present,  afraid  to  pass  through  La  Mancha, 
lest  they  fall  into  his  hands.  I wish  he  were  hanged,  Don 
Jorge,  and  whether  by  Christinos  or  Royalists,  I care  not.” 
“ You  recognized  me  at  once  for  an  Englishman,”  said 
I,  do  many  of  my  countrymen  visit  Cordova?  ” 

“ Toma ! ” said  the  landlord,  “ they  are  my  best 
customers;  I have  had  Englishmen  in  this  house  of  all 
grades,  from  the  son  of  Belington  to  a young  medico,  who 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


163 


cured  my  daughter,  the  chica  here,  of  the  ear-ache.  How 
should  I not  know  an  Englishman?  There  were  two  with 
Gomez,  serving  as  volunteers.  V ay  a que  gente  ; what  noble 
horses  they  rode,  and  how  they  scattered  their  gold  about; 
they  brought  with  them  a Portuguese,  who  was  much  of 
a gentleman  but  very  poor;  it  was  said  that  he  was  one 
of  Don  Miguel's  people,  and  that  these  Englishmen  sup- 
ported him  for  the  love  they  bore  to  royalty;  he  was 
continually  singing 

* El  Key  chegou — El  Key  chegou, 

E en  Belem  desembarcou  ! 5 * 

Those  were  merry  days,  Don  Jorge.  By  the  by,  I forgot 
to  ask  your  worship  of  what  opinion  you  are?  " 

The  next  morning,  whilst  I was  dressing,  the  old 
Genoese  entered  my  room:  “ Signore,"  said  he,  “ I am 

come  to  bid  you  farewell.  I am  about  to  return  to  Seville 
forthwith  with  the  horses." 

“ Wherefore  in  such  a hurry,"  I replied;  “ assuredly 
you  had  better  tarry  till  to-morrow;  both  the  animals 
and  yourself  require  rest;  repose  yourselves  to-day  and 
I will  defray  the  expense." 

“ Thank  you,  Signore,  but  we  will  depart  forthwith, 
for  there  is  no  tarrying  in  this  house." 

“ What  is  the  matter  with  the  house?  " I inquired. 

“ I find  no  fault  with  the  house,"  replied  the  Genoese, 
“ it  is  the  people  who  keep  it  of  whom  I complain.  About 
an  hour  since,  I went  down  to  get  my  breakfast,  and  there, 
in  the  kitchen,  I found  the  master  and  all  his  family: 
well,  I sat  down  and  called  for  chocolate,  which  they  brought 
me,  but  ere  I could  dispatch  it,  the  master  fell  to  talking 
politics.  He  commenced  by  telling  me  that  he  held  with 
neither  side,  but  he  is  as  rank  a Cariist  as  Carlos  Quinto: 
for  no  sooner  did  he  find  that  I was  of  the  other  opinion, 
than  he  glared  at  me  like  a wild  beast.  You  must  know, 
Signore,  that  in  the  time  of  the  old  constitution  I kept 
a coffee-house  at  Seville,  which  was  frequented  by  all 
the  principal  liberals,  and  was,  indeed,  the  cause  of  my 
ruin:  for  as  I admired  their  opinions,  I gave  my  customers 
whatever  credit  they  required,  both  with  regard  to  coffee 
and  liqueurs,  so  that  by  the  time  the  constitution  was  put 
down  and  despotism  re-established,  I had  trusted  them 
with  all  I had.  It  is  possible  that  many  of  them  would 
have  paid  me,  for  I believe  they  harboured  no  evil  intention; 
but  the  persecution  came,  the  liberals  took  to  flight,  and, 
as  was  natural  enough,  thought  more  of  providing  for 

* “ The  king  arrived,  the  king  arrived,  and  disembarked  at  Belem.” — 
Miguelite  song. 


164 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


their  own  safety  than  of  paying  me  for  my  coffee  and 
liqueurs;  nevertheless,  I am  a friend  to  their  system,  and 
never  hesitate  to  say  so.  So  the  landlord,  as  I told  your 
worship  before,  when  he  found  that  I was  of  this  opinion, 
glared  at  me  like  a wild  beast:  ‘ Get  out  of  my  house/ 
said  he,  ‘ for  I will  have  no  spies  here/  and  thereupon 
he  spoke  disrespectfully  of  the  young  Queen  Isabel  and  of 
Christina,  who,  notwithstanding  she  is  a Neapolitan,  I 
consider  as  my  countrywoman.  Hearing  this,  your  wor^ 
ship,  I confess  that  I lost  my  temper  and  returned  the 
compliment,  by  saying  that  Carlos  was  a knave  and  the 
Princess  of  Beira  no  better  than  she  should  be.  I then 
prepared  to  swallow  the  chocolate,  but  ere  I could  bring 
it  to  my  lips,  the  woman  of  the  house,  who  is  a still  ranker 
Carlist  than  her  husband,  if  that  be  possible,  coming  up 
to  me  struck  the  cup  into  the  air  as  high  as  the  ceiling, 
exclaiming,  ‘ Begone,  dog  of  a negro,  you  shall  taste  nothing 
more  in  my  house;  may  you  be  hanged  even  as  a swine  is 
hanged/  So  your  worship  sees  that  it  is  impossible  for 
me  to  remain  here  any  longer.  I forgot  to  say  that  the 
knave  of  a landlord  told  me  that  you  had  confessed  yourself 
to  be  of  the  same  politics  as  himself,  or  he  would  not  have 
harboured  you.” 

“ My  good  man,”  said  I,  “ I am  invariably  of  the 
politics  of  the  people  at  whose  table  I sit,  or  beneath  whose 
roof  I sleep,  at  least  I never  say  anything  which  can  lead 
them  to  suspect  the  contrary;  by  pursuing  which  system 
I have  more  than  once  escaped  a bloody  pillow,  and  having 
the  wine  I drank  spiced  with  sublimate.” 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Cordova — Moors  of  Barbary — The  English — An  Old  Priest — The  Roman 
Breviary — The  Dovecote — The  Holy  Office — Judaism — Desecration 
of  Dovecotes — The  Innkeeper’s  Proposal. 

Little  can  be  said  with  respect  to  the  town  of  Cordova, 
which  is  a mean  dark  gloomy  place,  full  of  narrow  streets 
and  alleys,  without  squares  or  public  buildings  worthy 
of  attention,  save  and  except  its  far-famed  cathedral; 
its  situation,  however,  is  beautiful  and  picturesque.  Before 
it  runs  the  Guadalquivir,  which,  though  in  this  part  shallow 
and  full  of  sandbanks,  is  still  a delightful  stream;  whilst 
behind  it  rise  the  steep  sides  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  planted 
up  to  the  top  with  olive  groves.  The  town  or  city  is 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty  Moorish  walls,  which  may 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


165 


measure  about  three  quarters  of  a league  in  circumference; 
unlike  Seville,  and  most  other  towns  in  Spain,  it  has  no 
suburbs. 

I have  said  that  Cordova  has  no  remarkable  edifices, 
save  its  cathedral;  yet  this  is  perhaps  the  most  extra- 
ordinary place  of  worship  in  the  world.  It  was  originally, 
as  is  well  known,  a mosque,  built  in  the  brightest  days 
of  Arabian  dominion  in  Spain;  in  shape  it  was  quadrangular, 
with  a low  roof,  supported  by  an  infinity  of  small  and 
delicately  rounded  marble  pillars,  many  of  which  still 
remain,  and  present  at  first  sight  the  appearance  of  a 
marble  grove;  the  greater  part,  however,  were  removed 
when  the  Christians,  after  the  expulsion  of  the  Moslems, 
essayed  to  convert  the  mosque  into  a cathedral,  which 
they  effected  in  part  by  the  erection  of  a dome,  and  by 
clearing  an  open  space  for  a choir.  As  it  at  present  exists, 
the  temple  appears  to  belong  partly  to  Mahomet,  and 
partly  to  the  Nazarene;  and  though  this  jumbling  together 
of  massive  Gothic  architecture  with  the  light  and  delicate 
style  of  the  Arabians  produces  an  effect  somewhat  bizarre, 
it  still  remains  a magnificent  and  glorious  edifice,  and  well 
calculated  to  excite  feelings  of  awe  and  veneration  within 
the  bosoms  of  those  who  enter  it. 

The  Moors  of  Barbary  seem  to  care  but  little  for  the 
exploits  of  their  ancestors:  their  minds  are  centred  in  the 
things  of  the  present  day,  and  only  so  far  as  those  things 
regard  themselves  individually.  Disinterested  enthusiasm, 
that  truly  distinguishing  mark  of  a noble  mind,  and 
admiration  for  what  is  great,  good,  and  grand,  they  appear 
to  be  totally  incapable  of  feeling.  It  is  astonishing  with 
what  indifference  they  stray  amongst  the  relics  of  ancient 
Moorish  grandeur  in  Spain.  No  feelings  of  exultation 
seem  to  be  excited  by  the  proof  of  what  the  Moor  once 
was,  nor  of  regret  at  the  consciousness  of  what  he  now  is. 
More  interesting  to  them  are  their  perfumes,  their  papouches, 
their  dates,  and  their  silks  of  Fez  and  Maraks,  to  dispose 
of  which  they  visit  Andalusia;  and  yet  the  generality  of 
these  men  are  far  from  being  ignorant,  and  have  both 
heard  and  read  of  what  was  passing  in  Spain  in  the  old 
time.  I was  once  conversing  with  a Moor  at  Madrid, 
with  whom  I was  very  intimate,  about  the  Alhambra  of 
Granada,  which  he  had  visited.  “ Did  you  not  weep,” 
said  I,  “ when  you  passed  through  the  courts,  and  thought 
of  the  Abencerrages?  ” “ No,”  said  he,  “ I did  not  weep; 

wherefore  should  I weep?  ” “ And  why  did  you  visit 

the  Alhambra?  ” I demanded.  “ I visited  it,”  he  replied, 
“ because  being  at  Granada  on  my  own  affairs,  one  of  your 
countrymen  requested  me  to  accompany  him  thither. 


166 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


that  I might  explain  some  of  the  inscriptions.  I should 
certainly  not  have  gone  of  my  own  accord,  for  the  hill 
on  which  it  stands  is  steep/'  And  yet  this  man  could 
compose  verses,  and  was  by  no  means  a contemptible 
poet.  Once  at  Cordova,  whilst  I was  in  the  cathedral, 
three  Moors  entered  it,  and  proceeded  slowly  across  its 
floor  in  the  direction  of  a gate,  which  stood  at  the  opposite 
side;  they  took  no  farther  notice  of  what  was  around  them 
than  by  slightly  glancing  once  or  twice  at  the  pillars,  one 
of  them  exclaiming,  “ Huaije  del  Mselmeen , huaije  del 
Mselmeen”  (things  of  the  Moors,  things  of  the  Moors); 
and  showed  no  other  respect  for  the  place  where  Abderrah- 
man  the  Magnificent  prostrated  himself  of  old,  than  facing 
about  on  arriving  at  the  farther  door  and  making  their 
egress  backwards;  yet  these  men  were  hajis  and  talebs, 
men  likewise  of  much  gold  and  silver,  men  who  had  read, 
who  had  travelled,  who  had  seen  Mecca,  and  the  great  city 
of  Negroland. 

I remained  in  Cordova  much  longer  than  I had  originally 
intended,  owing  to  the  accounts  which  I was  continually 
hearing  of  the  unsafe  state  of  the  roads  to  Madrid.  I 
soon  ransacked  every  nook  and  cranny  of  this  ancient 
town,  formed  various  acquaintances  amongst  the  populace, 
which  is  my  general  practice  on  arriving  at  a strange  place. 
I more  than  once  ascended  the  side  of  the  Sierra  Morena, 
in  which  excursions  I was  accompanied  by  the  son  of  my 
host, — the  tall  lad  of  whom  I have  already  spoken.  The 
people  of  the  house,  who  had  imbibed  the  idea  that  I was 
of  the  same  way  of  thinking  as  themselves,  were  exceedingly 
courteous;  it  is  true,  that  in  return  I was  compelled  to 
listen  to  a vast  deal  of  Carlism,  in  other  words,  high  treason 
against  the  ruling  powers  in  Spain,  to  which,  however, 
I submitted  with  patience.  “ Don  Jorgito,"  said  the  land- 
lord to  me  one  day,  “ I love  the  English;  they  are  my 
best  customers.  It  is  a pity  that  there  is  not  greater 
union  between  Spain  and  England,  and  that  more  English 
do  not  visit  us.  Why  should  there  not  be  a marriage? 
The  king  will  speedily  be  at  Madrid.  Why  should  there 
not  be  bodas  between  the  son  of  Don  Carlos  and  the  heiress 
of  England?  " 

“ It  would  certainly  tend  to  bring  a considerable 
number  of  English  to  Spain,"  said  I,  “ and  it  would  not 
be  the  first  time  that  the  son  of  a Carlos  has  married  a 
Princess  of  England." 

The  host  mused  for  a moment,  and  then  exclaimed, 
“ Carracho,  Don  Jorgito,  if  this  marriage  could  be  brought 
about,  both  the  king  and  myself  should  have  cause  to  fling 
our  caps  in  the  air." 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


167 


The  house  or  posada  in  which  I had  taken  up  my  abode 
was  exceedingly  spacious,  containing  an  infinity  of  apart- 
ments, both  large  and  small,  the  greater  part  of  which 
were,  however,  unfurnished.  The  chamber  in  which  I 
was  lodged  stood  at  the  end  of  an  immensely  long  corridor, 
of  the  kind  so  admirably  described  in  the  wondrous  tale 
of  Udolfo.  For  a day  or  two  after  my  arrival  I believed 
myself  to  be  the  only  lodger  in  the  house.  One  morning, 
however,  I beheld  a strange-looking  old  man  seated  in 
the  corridor,  by  one  of  the  windows,  reading  intently  in 
a small  thick  volume.  He  was  clad  in  garments  of  coarse 
blue  cloth,  and  wore  a loose  spencer  over  a waistcoat 
adorned  with  various  rows  of  small  buttons  of  mother  of 
pearl;  he  had  spectacles  upon  his  nose.  I could  perceive, 
notwithstanding  he  was  seated,  that  his  stature  bordered 
upon  the  gigantic.  “ Who  is  that  person?  ” said  I to  the 
landlord,  whom  I presently  met;  “ is  he  also  a guest  of 
yours?  ” “ Not  exactly,  Don  Jorge  de  mi  alma,”  replied 

he.  “ I can  scarcely  call  him  a guest,  inasmuch  as  I gain 
nothing  by  him,  though  he  is  staying  at  my  house.  You 
must  know,  Don  Jorge,  that  he  is  one  of  two  priests  who 
officiate  at  a large  village  at  some  slight  distance  from 
this  place.  So  it  came  to  pass,  that  when  the  soldiers  of 
Gomez  entered  the  village,  his  reverence  went  to  meet 
them,  dressed  in  full  canonicals,  with  a book  in  his  hand, 
and  he,  at  their  bidding,  proclaimed  Carlos  Quinto  in  the 
market-place.  The  other  priest,  however,  was  a desperate 
liberal,  a downright  negro,  and  upon  him  the  royalists 
laid  their  hands,  and  were  proceeding  to  hang  him.  His 
reverence,  however,  interfered,  and  obtained  mercy  for 
his  colleague,  on  condition  that  he  should  cry  Viva  Carlos 
Quinto ! which  the  latter  did  in  order  to  save  his  life. 
Well;  no  sooner  had  the  royalists  departed  from  these 
parts  than  the  black  priest  mounts  his  mule,  comes  to 
Cordova,  and  informs  against  his  reverence,  notwithstanding 
that  he  had  saved  his  life.  So  his  reverence  was  seized 
and  brought  hither  to  Cordova,  and  would  assuredly 
have  been  thrown  into  the  common  prison  as  a Carlist, 
had  I not  stepped  forward  and  offered  to  be  surety  that 
he  should  not  quit  the  place,  but  should  come  forward  at 
any  time  to  answer  whatever  charge  might  be  brought 
against  him;  and  he  is  now  in  my  house,  though  guest  I 
cannot  call  him,  for  he  is  not  of  the  slightest  advantage  to 
me,  as  his  very  food  is  daily  brought  from  the  country, 
and  that  consists  only  of  a few  eggs  and  a little  milk  and 
bread.  As  for  his  money,  I have  never  seen  the  colour  of 
it,  notwithstanding  they  tell  me  that  he  has  buenas  pesetas. 
However,  he  is  a holy  man,  is  continually  reading  and 


168 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

praying  and  is,  moreover,  of  the  right  opinion.  I there 
fore  keep  him  in  my  house,  and  would  be  bail  for  him 
were  he  twenty  times  more  of  a skinflint  than  he  seems 
to  be.” 

The  next  day,  as  I was  again  passing  through  the 
corridor,  I observed  the  old  man  in  the  same  place,  and 
saluted  him.  He  returned  my  salutation  with  much 
courtesy,  and  closing  the  book,  placed  it  upon  his  knee 
as  if  willing  to  enter  into  conversation.  After  exchanging 
a word  or  two,  I took  up  the  book  for  the  purpose  of 
inspecting  it. 

“ You  will  hardly  derive  much  instruction  from  that 
book,  Don  Jorge,”  said  the  old  man;  “ you  cannot  under- 
stand it,  for  it  is  not  written  in  English.” 

“ Nor  in  Spanish,”  I replied.  “ But  with  respect  to 
understanding  the  book,  I cannot  see  what  difficulty 
there  can  be  in  a thing  so  simple;  it  is  only  the  Roman 
breviary  written  in  the  Latin  tongue.” 

“ Do  the  English  understand  Latin?  ” exclaimed  he. 
“ Yaya!  Who  would  have  thought  that  it  was  possible 
for  Lutherans  to  understand  the  language  of  the  church? 
Vaya!  the  longer  one  lives  the  more  one  learns.” 

“ How  old  may  your  reverence  be?  ” I inquired. 

“ I am  eighty  years,  Don  Jorge;  eighty  years,  and 
somewhat  more.” 

Such  was  the  first  conversation  which  passed  between 
his  reverence  and  myself.  He  soon  conceived  no  inconsider- 
able liking  for  me,  and  favoured  me  with  no  little  of  his 
company.  Unlike  our  friend  the  landlord,  I found  him  by 
no  means  inclined  to  talk  politics,  which  the  more  surprised 
me,  knowing,  as  I did,  the  decided  and  hazardous  part 
which  he  had  taken  on  the  late  Carlist  irruption  into  the 
neighbourhood.  He  took,  however,  great  delight  in  dis- 
coursing on  ecclesiastical  subjects  and  the  writings  of  the 
fathers. 

“ I have  got  a small  library  at  home,  Don  Jorge,  which 
consists  of  all  the  volumes  of  the  fathers  which  I have 
been  able  to  pick  up,  and  I find  the  perusal  of  them  a source 
of  great  amusement  and  comfort.  Should  these  dark  days 
pass  by,  Don  Jorge,  and  you  should  be  in  these  parts,  I 
hope  you  will  look  in  upon  me,  and  I will  show  you  my 
little  library  of  the  fathers,  and  likewise  my  dovecote,  where 
I rear  numerous  broods  of  pigeons,  which  are  also  a source 
of  much  solace  and  at  the  same  time  of  profit.” 

“ I suppose  by  your  dovecote,”  said  I,  “ you  mean  your 
parish,  and  by  rearing  broods  of  pigeons,  you  allude  to  the 
care  you  take  of  the  souls  of  your  people,  instilling  therein 
the  fear  of  God,  and  obedience  to  his  revealed  law,  which 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  169 

occupation  must  of  course  afford  you  much  solace  and 
spiritual  profit.” 

“ I was  not  speaking  metaphorically,  Don  Jorge,” 
replied  my  companion;  “ and  by  rearing  doves,  I mean 
neither  more  nor  less  than  that  I supply  the  market  of 
Cordova  with  pigeons,  and  occasionally  that  of  Seville; 
for  my  birds  are  very  celebrated,  and  plumper  or  fatter 
flesh  than  theirs  I believe  cannot  be  found  in  the  whole 
kingdom.  Should  you  come  into  my  village,  you  will 
doubtless  taste  them,  Don  Jorge,  at  the  venta  where  you 
will  put  up,  for  I suffer  no  dovecotes  but  my  own  within  my 
district.  With  respect  to  the  souls  of  my  parishioners, 
I trust  I do  my  duty — I trust  I do,  as  far  as  in  my  power 
lies.  I always  took  great  pleasure  in  these  spiritual  matters, 
and  it  was  on  that  account  that  I attached  myself  to  the 
Santa  Casa  of  Cordova,  the  duties  of  which  I assisted  to 
perform  for  a long  period.” 

“ Your  reverence  has  been  an  inquisitor?  ” I exclaimed, 
somewhat  startled. 

“ From  my  thirtieth  year  until  the  time  of  the  suppression 
of  the  holy  office  in  these  afflicted  kingdoms.” 

“ You  both  surprise  and  delight  me,”  I exclaimed. 
" Nothing  could  have  afforded  me  greater  pleasure  than  to 
find  myself  conversing  with  a father  formerly  attached  to 
the  holy  house  of  Cordova.” 

The  old  man  looked  at  me  steadfastly ; “ I understand  you, 
Don  Jorge.  I have  long  seen  that  you  are  one  of  us.  You 
are  a learned  and  holy  man;  and  though  you  think  fit  to  call 
yourself  a Lutheran  and  an  Englishman,  I have  dived  into 
your  real  condition.  No  Lutheran  would  take  the  interest 
in  church  matters  which  you  do,  and  with  respect  to  your 
being  an  Englishman,  none  of  that  nation  can  speak  Castilian, 
much  less  Latin.  I believe  you  to  be  one  of  us — a missionary 
priest,  and  I am  especially  confirmed  in  that  idea  by  your 
frequent  conversations  and  interviews  with  the  Gitanos; 
you  appear  to  be  labouring  among  them.  Be,  however, 
on  your  guard,  Don  Jorge,  trust  not  to  Egyptian  faith; 
they  are  evil  penitents,  whom  I like  not.  I would  not 
advise  you  to  trust  them.” 

“ I do  not  intend,”  I replied;  “ especially  with  money. 
But  to  return  to  more  important  matters: — of  what  crimes 
did  this  holy  house  of  Cordova  take  cognizance?  ” 

“ You  are  of  course  aware  of  the  matters  on  which 
the  holy  office  exercises  its  functions.  I need  scarcely 
mention  sorcery,  Judaism,  and  certain  carnal  misde- 
meanours.” 

“ With  respect  to  sorcery,”  said  I,  “ what  is  your 
opinion  of  it?  Is  there  in  reality  such  a crime?  ” 


170 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

“ Que  se  io  * ? ” said  the  old  man,  shrugging  up  his 
shoulders.  “ How  should  I know?  The  church  has  power, 
Don  Jorge,  or  at  least  it  had  power,  to  punish  for  anything, 
real  or  unreal;  and  as  it  was  necessary  to  punish  in  order  to 
prove  that  it  had  the  power  of  punishing,  of  what  consequence 
whether  it  punished  for  sorcery  or  any  other  crime.” 

“ Did  many  cases  of  sorcery  occur  within  your  own 
sphere  of  knowledge?” 

“ One  or  two,  Don  Jorge;  they  were  by  no  means 
frequent.  The  last  that  I remember  was  a case  which 
occurred  in  a convent  at  Seville:  a certain  nun  was  in  the 
habit  of  flying  through  the  windows  and  about  the  garden 
over  the  tops  of  the  orange  trees;  declarations  of  various 
witnesses  were  taken,  and  the  process  was  arranged  with 
much  formality;  the  fact,  I believe,  was  satisfactorily 
proved:  of  one  thing  I am  certain,  that  the  nun  was 

punished.” 

“ Were  you  troubled  with  much  Judaism  in  these  parts?  ” 

“ Wooh!  Nothing  gave  so  much  trouble  to  the  Santa 
Casa  as  this  same  Judaism.  Its  shoots  and  ramifications  are 
numerous,  not  only  in  these  parts,  but  in  all  Spain;  and  it  is 
singular  enough,  that  even  among  the  priesthood,  instances 
of  Judaism  of  both  kinds  were  continually  coming  to  our 
knowledge,  which  it  was  of  course  our  duty  to  punish.” 

“ Is  there  more  than  one  species  of  Judaism?  ” I 
demanded. 

“ I have  always  arranged  Judaism  under  two  heads,” 
said  the  old  man,  “ the  black  and  the  white:  by  the  black, 
I mean  the  observance  of  the  law  of  Moses  in  preference  to 
the  precepts  of  the  church;  then  there  is  the  white  Judaism, 
which  includes  all  kinds  of  heresy,  such  as  Lutheranism, 
freemasonry,  and  the  like.” 

“ I can  easily  conceive,”  said  I,  “ that  many  of  the 
priesthood  favoured  the  principles  of  the  reformation,  and 
that  the  minds  of  not  a few  had  been  led  astray  by  the 
deceitful  lights  of  modern  philosophy,  but  it  is  almost  in- 
conceivable to  me  that  there  should  be  Jews  amongst  the 
priesthood  who  follow  in  secret  the  rites  and  observances 
of  the  old  law,  though  I confess  that  I have  been  assured  of 
the  fact  ere  now.” 

“ Plenty  of  Judaism  amongst  the  priesthood,  whether 
of  the  black  or  white  species;  no  lack  of  it,  I assure  you, 
Don  Jorge;  I remember  once  searching  the  house  of  an 
ecclesiastic  who  was  accused  of  the  black  Judaism,  and 
after  much  investigation,  we  discovered  beneath  the  floor 
a wooden  chest,  in  which  was  a small  shrine  of  silver,  inclos- 
ing three  books  in  black  hogskin,  which,  on  being  opened, 
* “ How  should  I know  ? 5> 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


171 


were  found  to  be  books  of  Jewish  devotion,  written  in  Hebrew 
characters,  and  of  great  antiquity;  and  on  being  questioned, 
the  culprit  made  no  secret  of  his  guilt,  but  rather  gloried  in 
it,  saying  that  there  was  no  God  but  one,  and  denouncing 
the  adoration  of  Maria  Santissima  as  rank  idolatry.” 

“ And  between  ourselves,  what  is  your  own  opinion  of 
the  adoration  of  this  same  Maria  Santissima?  ” 

“ What  is  my  opinion!  Que  se  io  ? 99  said  the  old  man, 
shrugging  up  his  shoulders  still  higher  than  on  the  former 
occasion;  “ but  I will  tell  you;  I think,  on  consideration, 
that  it  is  quite  right  and  proper;  why  not?  Let  any  one 
pay  a visit  to  my  church,  and  look  at  her  as  she  stands  there, 
tan  bonita , tan  guapita — so  well  dressed  and  so  genteel — with 
such  pretty  colours,  such  red  and  white,  and  he  would 
scarcely  ask  me  why  Maria  Santissima  should  not  be 
adored.  Moreover,  Don  Jorgito  mio,  this  is  a church 
matter  and  forms  an  important  part  of  the  church  system.” 
“ And  now,  with  respect  to  carnal  misdemeanours. 
Did  you  take  much  cognizance  of  them?  ” 

“ Amongst  the  laity,  not  much;  we,  however,  kept  a 
vigilant  eye  upon  our  own  body,  but,  upon  the  whole,  were 
rather  tolerant  in  these  matters,  knowing  that  the  infirmities 
of  human  nature  are  very  great  indeed:  we  rarely  punished, 
save  in  cases  where  the  glory  of  the  church  and  loyalty  to 
Maria  Santissima  made  punishment  absolutely  imperative.” 
“ And  what  cases  might  those  be?  ” I demanded. 

“ I allude  to  the  desecration  of  dovecotes,  Don  Jorge, 
and  the  introduction  therein  of  strange  flesh,  for  purposes 
neither  seemly  nor  convenient.” 

“ Your  reverence  will  excuse  me  for  not  yet  perfectly 
understanding.” 

“ I mean,  Don  Jorge,  certain  acts  of  flagitiousness 
practised  by  the  clergy  in  lone  and  remote  palomares 
(dovecotes)  in  olive  grounds  and  gardens;  actions  denounced, 
I believe,  by  the  holy  Pablo  in  his  first  letter  to  Pope  Sixtus.* 
You  understand  me  now,  Don  Jorge,  for  you  are  learned 
in  church  matters.” 

“ I think  I understand  you,”  I replied. 

After  remaining  several  days  more  at  Cordova,  I deter- 
mined to  proceed  on  my  journey  to  Madrid,  though  the 
roads  were  still  said  to  be  highly  insecure.  I,  however, 
saw  but  little  utility  in  tarrying  and  awaiting  a more  tranquil 
state  of  affairs,  which  might  never  arrive.  I therefore 
consulted  with  the  landlord  respecting  the  best  means  of 
making  the  journey.  “ Don  Jorgito,”  he  replied,  “ I think 
I can  tell  you.  You  say  you  are  anxious  to  depart,  and  I 
never  wish  to  keep  guests  in  my  house  longer  than  is  agree- 
* Qu.  The  Epistle  to  the  Romans. 


172 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


able  to  them;  to  do  so,  would  not  become  a Christian  inn- 
keeper: I leave  such  conduct  to  Moors,  Christinos,  and 

Negroes.  I will  further  you  on  your  journey,  Don  Jorge: 
I have  a plan  in  my  head,  which  I had  resolved  to  propose 
to  you  before  you  questioned  me.  There  is  my  wife’s 
brother,  who  has  two  horses  which  he  occasionally  lets  out 
for  hire;  you  shall  hire  them,  Don  Jorge,  and  he  himself 
shall  attend  you  to  take  care  of  you,  and  to  comfort  you, 
and  to  talk  to  you,  and  you  shall  pay  him  forty  dollars  for 
the  journey.  Moreover,  as  there  are  thieves  upon  the  route, 
and  malos  sujetos , such  as  Palillos  and  his  family,  you  shall 
make  an  engagement  and  a covenant,  Don  Jorge,  that 
provided  you  are  robbed  and  stripped  on  the  route,  and  the 
horses  of  my  wife’s  bro  ther  are  taken  from  him  by  the  thieves, 
you  shall,  on  arriving  at  Madrid,  make  good  any  losses  to 
which  my  wife’s  brother  may  be  subject  in  following  you. 
This  is  my  plan,  Don  Jorge,  which  no  doubt  will  meet  with 
your  worship’s  approbation,  as  it  is  devised  solely  for  your 
benefit,  and  not  with  any  view  of  lucre  or  interest  either  to 
me  or  mine.  You  will  find  my  wife’s  brother  pleasant 
company  on  the  route:  he  is  a very  respectable  man,  and 
one  of  the  right  opinion,  and  has  likewise  travelled  much; 
for  between  ourselves,  Don  Jorge,  he  is  something  of  a 
Contrabandista  and  frequently  smuggles  diamonds  and 
precious  stones  from  Portugal,  which  he  disposes  of  some- 
times in  Cordova  and  sometimes  at  Madrid.  He  is  ac- 
quainted with  all  the  short  cuts,  all  the  atajos,  Don  Jorge, 
and  is  much  respected  in  all  the  ventas  and  posadas  on  the 
way;  so  now  give  me  your  hand  upon  the  bargain,  and  I 
will  forthwith  repair  to  my  wife’s  brother  to  tell  him  to  get 
ready  to  set  out  with  your  worship  the  day  after  to-morrow.” 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Departure  from  Cordova — The  Contrabandista — Jewish  Cunning 
— Arrival  at  Madrid. 

One  fine  morning,  I departed  from  Cordova,  in  company 
with  the  Contrabandista;  the  latter  was  mounted  on  a 
handsome  animal,  something  between  a horse  and  a pony, 
which  he  called  a jaca,  of  that  breed  for  which  Cordova 
is  celebrated.  It  was  of  a bright  bay  colour,  with  a star  in 
its  forehead,  with  strong  but  elegant  limbs,  and  a long  black 
tail,  which  swept  the  ground.  The  other  animal,  which 
was  destined  to  carry  me  to  Madrid,  was  not  quite  so  pre- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


173 


possessing  in  its  appearance:  in  more  than  one  respect  it 
closely  resembled  a hog,  particularly  in  the  curving  of  its 
back,  the  shortness  of  its  neck,  and  the  manner  in  which 
it  kept  its  head  nearly  in  contact  with  the  ground:  it  had 
also  the  tail  of  a hog,  and  meandered  over  the  ground  much 
like  one.  Its  coat  more  resembled  coarse  bristles  than  hair, 
and  with  respect  to  size,  I have  seen  many  a Westphalian 
hog  quite  as  tall.  I was  not  altogether  satisfied  with  the 
idea  of  exhibiting  myself  on  the  back  of  this  most  extraordin- 
ary quadruped,  and  looked  wistfully  on  the  respectable 
animal  on  which  my  guide  had  thought  proper  to  place 
himself;  he  interpreted  my  glances,  and  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  as  he  was  destined  to  carry  the  baggage,  he  was 
entitled  to  the  best  horse;  a plea  too  well  grounded  on 
reason  for  me  to  make  any  objection  to  it. 

I found  the  Gontrabandista  by  no  means  such  pleasant 
company  on  the  road  as  I had  been  led  to  suppose  he  would 
prove  from  the  representation  of  my  host  of  Cordova. 
Throughout  the  day  he  sat  sullen  and  silent,  and  rarely 
replied  to  my  questions,  save  by  a monosyllable;  at  night, 
however,  after  having  eaten  well  and  drank  proportionably 
at  my  expense,  he  would  occasionally  become  more  sociable 
and  communicative.  “ I have  given  up  smuggling/'  said 
he,  on  one  of  these  occasions,  “ owing  to  a trick  which  was 
played  upon  me  the  last  time  that  I was  at  Lisbon:  a Jew 
whom  I had  been  long  acquainted  with  palmed  upon  me  a 
false  brilliant  for  a real  stone.  He  effected  it  in  the  most 
extraordinary  manner,  for  I am  not  such  a novice  as  not  to 
know  a true  diamond  when  I see  one;  but  the  Jew  appears 
to  have  had  two,  with  which  he  played  most  adroitly, 
keeping  the  valuable  one  for  which  I bargained,  and  sub- 
stituting therefor  another  which,  though  an  excellent 
imitation,  was  not  worth  four  dollars.  I did  not  discover 
the  trick  until  I was  across  the  border,  and  upon  my  hurry- 
ing back,  the  culprit  was  not  to  be  found;  his  priest, 
however,  told  me  that  he  was  just  dead  and  buried,  which 
was  of  course  false,  as  I saw  him  laughing  in  the  corners  of 
his  eyes.  I renounced  the  contraband  trade  from  that 
moment." 

It  is  not  my  intention  to  describe  minutely  the  various 
incidents  of  this  j ourney . Leaving  at  our  right  the  mountains 
of  Jaen,  we  passed  through  Andujar  and  Bailen,  and  on 
the  third  day  reached  Carolina,  a small  but  beautiful  town 
on  the  skirts  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  inhabited  by  the  descend- 
ants of  German  colonists.  Two  leagues  from  this  place, 
we  entered  the  defile  of  Despena  Perros,  which,  even  in 
quiet  times,  has  an  evil  name,  on  account  of  the  robberies 
which  are  continually  being  perpetrated  within  its  recesses, 


174 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


but  at  the  period  of  which  I am  speaking,  it  was  said  to  be 
swarming  with  banditti.  We  of  course  expected  to  be 
robbed,  perhaps  stripped  and  otherwise  ill-treated;  but 
Providence  here  manifested  itself.  It  appeared  that,  the 
day  before  our  arrival,  the  banditti  of  the  pass  had  com- 
mitted a dreadful  robbery  and  murder,  by  which  they  gained 
forty  thousand  rials.  This  booty  probably  contented  them 
for  a time;  certain  it  is  that  we  were  not  interrupted:  we 
did  not  even  see  a single  individual  in  the  pass,  though  we 
occasionally  heard  whistles  and  loud  cries.  We  entered 
La  Mancha,  where  I expected  to  fall  into  the  hands  of 
Palillos  and  Orejita.  Providence  again  showed  itself. 
It  had  been  delicious  weather,  suddenly  the  Lord  breathed 
forth  a frozen  blast,  the  severity  of  which  was  almost  in- 
tolerable; no  human  beings  but  ourselves  ventured  forth. 
We  traversed  snow-covered  plains,  and  passed  through 
villages  and  towns  to  all  appearance  deserted.  The  robbers 
kept  close  in  their  caves  and  hovels,  but  the  cold  nearly 
killed  us.  We  reached  Aranjuez  late  on  Christmas  Day, 
and  I got  into  the  house  of  an  Englishman,  where  I swallowed 
nearly  a pint  of  brandy;  it  affected  me  no  more  than  warm 
water. 

On  the  following  day  we  arrived  at  Madrid,  where  we 
had  the  good  fortune  to  find  everything  tranquil  and  quiet. 
The  Contrabandista  continued  with  me  for  two  days,  at  the 
end  of  which  time  he  returned  to  Cordova  upon  the  uncouth 
animal  on  which  I had  ridden  throughout  the  journey. 
I had  myself  purchased  the  jaca,  whose  capabilities  I had 
seen  on  the  route,  and  which  I imagined  might  prove  useful 
in  future  journeys.  The  Contrabandista  was  so  satisfied 
with  the  price  which  I gave  him  for  his  beast,  and  the  general 
treatment  which  he  had  experienced  at  my  hands  during 
the  time  of  his  attendance  upon  me,  that  he  would  fain 
have  persuaded  me  to  retain  him  as  a servant,  assuring  me 
that,  in  the  event  of  my  compliance,  he  would  forget  his 
wife  and  children  and  follow  me  through  the  world.  I 
declined,  however,  to  accede  to  his  request,  though  I was 
in  need  of  a domestic;  I therefore  sent  him  back  to  Cordova, 
where,  as  I subsequently  learned,  he  died  suddenly,  about  a 
week  after  his  return. 

The  manner  of  his  death  was  singular:  one  day  he 

took  out  his  purse,  and,  after  counting  his  money,  said  to 
his  wife,  “ I have  made  ninety-five  dollars  by  this  journey 
with  the  Englishman  and  by  the  sale  of  the  jaca;  this  I 
could  easily  double  by  one  successful  venture  in  the 
smuggling  lay.  To-morrow  I will  depart  for  Lisbon  to 
buy  diamonds.  I wonder  if  the  beast  requires  to  be  shod?  ” 
He  then  started  up  and  made  for  the  door,  with  the  intention 


175 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

of  going  to  the  stable;  ere,  however,  his  foot  had  crossed 
the  threshold,  he  fell  dead  on  the  floor.  Such  is  the  course 
of  the  world.  Well  said  the  wise  king:  Let  no  one  boast 
of  the  morrow. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

Arrival  at  Madrid — Maria  Diaz — Printing  of  the  Testament — My  Project 

— Andalusian  Steed — Servant  Wanted — An  Application — Antonio 

Buchini — General  Cordova — Principles  of  Honour. 

On  my  arrival  at  Madrid  I did  not  repair  to  my  former 
lodgings  in  the  Calle  de  la  Zarza,  but  took  others  in  the 
Calle  de  Santiago,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  palace.  The 
name  of  the  hostess  (for  there  was,  properly  speaking, 
no  host)  was  Maria  Diaz,  of  whom  I shall  take  the  present 
opportunity  of  saying  something  in  particular. 

She  was  a woman  of  about  thirty-five  years  of  age, 
rather  good-looking,  and  with  a physiognomy  every  linea- 
ment of  which  bespoke  intelligence  of  no  common  order. 
Her  eyes  were  keen  and  penetrating,  though  occasionally 
clouded  with  a somewhat  melancholy  expression.  There 
was  a particular  calmness  and  quiet  in  her  general  de- 
meanour, beneath  which,  however,  slumbered  a firmness 
of  spirit  and  an  energy  of  action  which  were  instantly 
displayed  whenever  necessary.  A Spaniard  and,  of  course, 
a Catholic,  she  was  possessed  of  a spirit  of  toleration  and 
liberality  which  would  have  done  honour  to  individuals 
much  her  superior  in  station.  In  this  woman,  during 
the  remainder  of  my  sojourn  in  Spain,  I found  a firm  and 
constant  friend,  and  occasionally  a most  discreet  adviser: 
she  entered  into  all  my  plans,  I will  not  say  with  enthusiasm, 
which,  indeed,  formed  no  part  of  her  character,  but  with 
cordiality  and  sincerity,  forwarding  them  to  the  utmost 
of  her  ability.  She  never  shrank  from  me  in  the  hour  of 
danger  and  persecution,  but  stood  my  friend,  notwith- 
standing the  many  inducements  which  were  held  out  to 
her  by  my  enemies  to  desert  or  betray  me.  Her  motives 
were  of  the  noblest  kind,  friendship  and  a proper  feeling 
of  the  duties  of  hospitality;  no  prospect,  no  hope  of  self- 
interest,  however  remote,  influenced  this  admirable  woman 
in  her  conduct  towards  me.  Honour  to  Maria  Diaz,  the 
quiet,  dauntless,  clever  Castilian  female.  I were  an  ingrate 
not  to  speak  well  of  her,  for  richly  has  she  deserved  an 
eulogy  in  the  humble  pages  of  The  Bible  in  Spain. 

She  was  a native  of  Villa  Seca,  a hamlet  of  New  Castile, 


176 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


situated  in  what  is  called  the  Sagra,  at  about  three  leagues’ 
distance  from  Toledo:  her  father  was  an  architect  of  some 
celebrity,  particularly  skilled  in  erecting  bridges.  At  a 
very  early  age  she  married  a respectable  yeoman  of  Villa 
Seca,  Lopez  by  name,  by  whom  she  had  three  sons.  On 
the  death  of  her  father,  which  occurred  about  five  years 
previous  to  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking,  she  removed 
to  Madrid,  partly  for  the  purpose  of  educating  her  children, 
and  partly  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  from  the  government 
a considerable  sum  of  money  for  which  it  stood  indebted 
to  her  father,  at  the  time  of  his  decease,  for  various  useful 
and  ornamental  works,  principally  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Aranjuez.  The  justness  of  her  claim  was  at  once  ac- 
knowledged; but,  alas!  no  money  was  forthcoming,  the 
royal  treasury  being  empty.  Her  hopes  of  earthly 
happiness  were  now  concentrated  in  her  children.  The 
two  youngest  were  still  of  a very  tender  age;  but  the 
eldest,  Juan  Jose  Lopez,  a lad  of  about  sixteen,  was  bidding 
fair  to  realize  the  warmest  hopes  of  his  affectionate  mother; 
he  had  devoted  himself  to  the  arts,  in  which  he  made 
such  progress  that  he  had  already  become  the  favourite 
pupil  of  his  celebrated  namesake  Lopez,  the  best  painter 
of  modern  Spain.  Such  was  Maria  Diaz,  who,  according 
to  a custom  formerly  universal  in  Spain,  and  still  very 
prevalent,  retained  the  name  of  her  maidenhood  though 
married.  Such  was  Maria  Diaz  and  her  family. 

One  of  my  first  cares  was  to  wait  on  Mr.  Villiers,  who 
received  me  with  his  usual  kindness.  I asked  him  whether 
he  considered  that  I might  venture  to  commence  printing 
the  Scriptures  without  any  more  applications  to  govern- 
ment. His  reply  was  satisfactory:  “ You  obtained  the 

permission  of  the  government  of  Muntz/'  said  he,  “ which 
was  a much  less  liberal  one  than  the  present.  I am  a 
witness  to  the  promise  made  to  you  by  the  former  ministers, 
which  I consider  sufficient.  You  had  best  commence  and 
complete  the  work  as  soon  as  possible,  without  any  fresh 
application;  and  should  any  one  attempt  to  interrupt  you, 
you  have  only  to  come  to  me,  whom  you  may  command  at 
any  time."  So  I went  away  with  a light  heart,  and  forth- 
with made  preparation  for  the  execution  of  the  object  which 
had  brought  me  to  Spain. 

I shall  not  enter  here  into  unnecessary  details,  which 
could  possess  but  little  interest  for  the  reader;  suffice 
it  to  say  that,  within  three  months  from  this  time,  an 
edition  of  the  New  Testament,  consisting  of  five  thousand 
copies,  was  published  at  Madrid.  The  work  was  printed 
at  the  establishment  of  Mr.  Borrego,  a well-known  writer 
on  political  economy,  and  proprietor  and  editor  of  an 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


177 


influential  newspaper  called  El  Espanol.  To  this  gentle- 
man I had  been  recommended  by  Isturitz  himself,  on  the 
day  of  my  interview  with  him.  That  unfortunate  minister 
had,  indeed,  the  highest  esteem  for  Borrego,  and  had 
intended  raising  him  to  the  station  of  minister  of  finance, 
when  the  revolution  of  the  Granja  occurring,  of  course 
rendered  abortive  this  project,  with  perhaps  many  others 
of  a similar  kind  which  he  might  have  formed. 

The  Spanish  version  of  the  New  Testament  which  was 
thus  published,  had  been  made  many  years  before  by  a 
certain  Padre  Filipe  Scio,  confessor  of  Ferdinand  the 
Seventh,  and  had  even  been  printed,  but  so  encumbered 
by  notes  and  commentaries  as  to  be  unfitted  for  general 
circulation,  for  which,  indeed,  it  was  never  intended.  In 
the  present  edition,  the  notes  were  of  course  omitted,  and 
the  inspired  word,  and  that  alone,  offered  to  the  public. 
It  was  brought  out  in  a handsome  octavo  volume,  and 
presented,  upon  the  whole,  a rather  favourable  specimen 
of  Spanish  typography. 

The  mere  printing,  however,  of  the  New  Testament 
at  Madrid  could  be  attended  with  no  utility  whatever, 
unless  measures,  and  energetic  ones,  were  taken  for  the 
circulation  of  the  sacred  volume. 

In  the  case  of  the  New  Testament,  it  would  not  do  to 
follow  the  usual  plan  of  publication  in  Spain,  namely,  to 
entrust  the  work  to  the  booksellers  of  the  capital,  and 
rest  content  with  the  sale  which  they  and  their  agents 
in  the  provincial  towns  might  be  able  to  obtain  for  it, 
in  the  common  routine  of  business;  the  result  generally 
being,  the  circulation  of  a few  dozen  copies  in  the  course 
of  the  year;  as  the  demand  for  literature  of  every  kind 
in  Spain  was  miserably  small. 

The  Christians  of  England  had  already  made  consider- 
able sacrifices  in  the  hope  of  disseminating  the  word  of 
God  largely  amongst  the  Spaniards,  and  it  was  now  neces- 
sary to  spare  no  exertion  to  prevent  that  hope  becoming 
abortive.  Before  the  book  was  ready,  I had  begun  to 
make  preparations  for  putting  a plan  into  execution, 
which  had  occupied  my  thoughts  occasionally  during  my 
former  visit  to  Spain,  and  which  I had  never  subsequently 
abandoned.  I had  mused  on  it  when  off  Cape  Finisterre 
in  the  tempest;  in  the  cut-throat  passes  of  the  Morena; 
and  on  the  plains  of  La  Mancha,  as  I jogged  along  a little 
way  ahead  of  the  Contrabandista. 

I had  determined,  after  depositing  a certain  number 
of  copies  in  the  shops  of  the  booksellers  of  Madrid,  to  ride 
forth,  Testament  in  hand,  and  endeavour  to  circulate 
the  word  of  God  amongst  the  Spaniards,  not  only  of  the 


178 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


towns  but  of  the  villages;  amongst  the  children  not  only 
of  the  plains  but  of  the  hills  and  mountains.  I intended 
to  visit  Old  Castile,  a,nd  to  traverse  the  whole  of  Galicid 
and  the  Asturias, — to  establish  Scripture  depots  in  the 
principal  towns,  and  to  visit  the  people  in  secret  and 
secluded  spots, — to  talk  to  them  of  Christ,  to  explain  to 
them  the  nature  of  his  book,  and  to  place  that  book  in  the 
hands  of  those  whom  I should  deem  capable  of  deriving 
benefit  from  it.  I was  aware  that  such  a journey  would 
be  attended  with  considerable  danger,  and  very  possibly 
the  fate  of  St.  Stephen  might  overtake  me;  but  does  the 
man  deserve  the  name  of  a follower  of  Christ  who  would 
shrink  from  danger  of  any  kind  in  the  cause  of  Him  whom 
he  calls  his  Master?  “ He  who  loses  his  life  for  my  sake, 
shall  find  it,"  are  words  which  the  Lord  himself  uttered. 
These  words  were  fraught  with  consolation  to  me,  as  they 
doubtless  are  to  every  one  engaged  in  propagating  the 
gospel  in  sincerity  of  heart,  in  savage  and  barbarian  lands. 

I now  purchased  another  horse;  for  these  animals, 
at  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking,  were  exceedingly  cheap. 
A royal  requisition  was  about  to  be  issued  for  five  thousand, 
the  consequence  being,  that  an  immense  number  were  for 
sale,  for,  by  virtue  of  this  requisition,  the  horses  of  any 
person  not  a foreigner  could  be  seized  for  the  benefit  of  the 
service.  It  was  probable  that,  when  the  number  was  made 
up,  the  price  of  horses  would  be  treble  what  it  then  was, 
which  consideration  induced  me  to  purchase  this  animal 
before  I exactly  wanted  him.  He  was  a black  Andalusian 
stallion  of  great  power  and  strength,  and  capable  of  per- 
forming a journey  of  a hundred  leagues  in  a week’s  time, 
but  he  was  unbroke,  savage,  and  furious.  A cargo  of 
Bibles,  however,  which  I hoped  occasionally  to  put  on 
his  back,  would,  I had  no  doubt,  thoroughly  tame  him, 
especially  when  labouring  up  the  flinty  hills  of  the  north 
of  Spain.  I wished  to  have  purchased  a mule,  but,  though 
I offered  thirty  pounds  for  a sorry  one,  I could  not  obtain 
her;  whereas  the  cost  of  both  the  horses,  tall  powerful 
stately  animals,  scarcely  amounted  to  that  sum. 

The  state  of  the  surrounding  country  at  this  time 
was  not  very  favourable  for  venturing  forth:  Cabrera 

was  within  nine  leagues  of  Madrid,  with  an  army  nearly 
ten  thousand  strong;  he  had  beaten  several  small  detach- 
ments of  the  queen’s  troops,  and  had  ravaged  La  Mancha 
with  fire  and  sword,  burning  several  towns;  bands  of 
affrighted  fugitives  were  arriving  every  hour,  bringing 
tidings  of  woe  and  disaster,  and  I was  only  surprised 
that  the  enemy  did  not  appear,  and  by  taking  Madrid, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


179 


which  was  almost  at  his  mercy,  put  an  end  to  the  war  at 
once.  But  the  truth  is,  that  the  Carlist  generals  did  not 
wish  the  war  to  cease,  for  as  long  as  the  country  was  involved 
in  bloodshed  and  anarchy,  they  could  plunder  and  exercise 
that  lawless  authority  so  dear  to  men  of  fierce  and  brutal 
passions.  Cabrera,  moreover,  was  a dastardly  wretch, 
whose  limited  mind  was  incapable  of  harbouring  a single 
conception  approaching  to  grandeur;  whose  heroic  deeds 
were  confined  to  cutting  down  defenceless  men,  and  to 
forcing  and  disembowelling  unhappy  women;  and  yet  I 
have  seen  this  wretched  fellow  termed  by  French  journals 
(Carlist  of  course)  the  young,  the  heroic  general.  Infamy 
on  the  cowardly  assassin!  The  shabbiest  corporal  of 
Napoleon  would  have  laughed  at  his  generalship,  and  half 
a battalion  of  Austrian  grenadiers  would  have  driven  him 
and  his  rabble  army  headlong  into  the  Ebro. 

I now  made  preparations  for  my  journey  into  the  north. 
I was  already  provided  with  horses  well  calculated  to  support 
the  fatigues  of  the  road  and  the  burdens  which  I might 
deem  necessary  to  impose  upon  them.  One  thing,  however, 
was  still  lacking,  indispensable  to  a person  about  to  engage 
on  an  expedition  of  this  description;  I mean  a servant  to 
attend  me.  Perhaps  there  is  no  place  in  the  world  where 
servants  more  abound  than  at  Madrid,  or  at  least  fellows 
eager  to  proffer  their  services  in  the  expectation  of  receiving 
food  and  wages,  though,  with  respect  to  the  actual  service 
which  they  are  capable  of  performing,  not  much  can  be  said; 
but  I was  in  want  of  a servant  of  no  common  description, 
a shrewd  active  fellow,  of  whose  advice,  in  cases  of  emer- 
gency, I could  occasionally  avail  myself;  courageous 
withal,  for  it  certainly  required  some  degree  of  courage 
to  follow  a master  bent  on  exploring  the  greater  part  of 
Spain,  and  who  intended  to  travel,  not  under  the  protection 
of  muleteers  and  carmen,  but  on  his  own  cabalgaduras. 
Such  a servant,  perhaps,  I might  have  sought  for  years 
without  finding;  chance,  however,  brought  one  to  my  hand 
at  the  very  time  I wanted  him,  without  it  being  necessary 
for  me  to  make  any  laborious  perquisitions.  I was  one 
day  mentioning  the  subject  to  Mr.  Borrego,  at  whose 
establishment  I had  printed  the  New  Testament,  and 
inquiring  whether  he  thought  that  such  an  individual 
was  to  be  found  in  Madrid,  adding  that  I was  particularly 
anxious  to  obtain  a servant  who,  besides  Spanish,  could 
speak  some  other  language,  that  occasionally  we  might 
discourse  without  being  understood  by  those  who  might 
overhear  us.  “ The  very  description  of  person,”  he  replied, 
“ that  you  appear  to  be  in  need  of,  quitted  me  about 
half  an  hour  ago,  and,  it  is  singular  enough,  came  to  me 


180 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


in  the  hope  that  I might  be  able  to  recommend  him  to  a 
master.  He  has  been  twice  in  my  service:  for  his  talent 
and  courage  I will  answer;  and  I believe  him  to  be  trust- 
worthy, at  least  to  masters  who  may  chime  in  with  his 
humour,  for  I must  inform  you  that  he  is  a most  extra- 
ordinary fellow,  full  of  strange  likes  and  antipathies,  which 
he  will  gratify  at  any  expense,  either  to  himself  or  others. 
Perhaps  he  will  attach  himself  to  you,  in  which  case  you 
will  find  him  highly  valuable;  for  if  he  please  he  can  turn 
his  hand  to  any  thing,  and  is  not  only  acquainted  with 
two  but  half  a dozen  languages.” 

“ Is  he  a Spaniard?  ” I inquired. 

“ I will  send  him  to  you  to-morrow,”  said  Borrego, 
“ you  will  best  learn  from  his  own  mouth  who  and  what 
he  is.” 

The  next  day,  as  I had  just  sat  down  to  my  “ sopa,” 
my  hostess  informed  me  that  a man  wished  to  speak  to 
me.  “ Admit  him,”  said  I,  and  he  almost  instantly  made 
his  appearance.  He  was  dressed  respectably  in  the  French 
fashion,  and  had  rather  a juvenile  look,  though  I subse- 
quently learned  that  he  was  considerably  above  forty. 
He  was  somewhat  above  the  middle  stature,  and  might 
have  been  called  well  made,  had  it  not  been  for  his  meagre- 
ness, which  was  rather  remarkable.  His  arms  were  long 
and  bony,  and  his  whole  form  conveyed  an  idea  of  great 
activity  united  with  no  slight  degree  of  strength:  his  hair 
was  wiry,  but  of  jetty  blackness;  his  forehead  low;  his 
eyes  small  and  grey,  expressive  of  much  subtlety  and  no 
less  malice,  strangely  relieved  by  a strong  dash  of  humour; 
the  nose  was  handsome,  but  the  mouth  was  immensely 
wide,  and  his  under  jaw  projected  considerably.  A more 
singular  physiognomy  I had  never  seen,  and  I continued 
staring  at  him  for  some  time  in  silence.  “ Who  are  you?  ” 
I at  last  demanded. 

“ Domestic  in  search  of  a master,”  answered  the  man 
in  good  French,  but  in  a strange  accent.  “ I come  recom- 
mended to  you,  my  Lor,  by  Monsieur  B.” 

Myself. — Of  what  nation  may  you  be?  Are  you  French 
or  Spanish? 

Man . — God  forbid  that  I should  be  either,  mi  Lor, 
j’ai  Vhonneur  d’etre  de  la  nation  Grecque,  my  name  is  Antonio 
Buchini,  native  of  Pera  the  Belle  near  to  Constantinople. 

Myself. — And  what  brought  you  to  Spain? 

Buchini. — Mi  Lor , je  vais  vous  raconter  mon  histoire  du 
commencement  jusqu’ici  : — my  father  was  a native  of  Sceira 
in  Greece,  from  whence  at  an  early  age  he  repaired  to  Pera, 
where  he  served  as  janitor  in  the  hotels  of  various  am- 
bassadors, by  whom  he  was  much  respected  for  his  fidelity. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


181 


Amongst  others  of  these  gentlemen,  he  served  him  of  your 
own  nation:  this  occurred  at  the  time  that  there  was  war 
between  England  and  the  Porte.  * Monsieur  the  Ambassador 
had  to  escape  for  his  life,  leaving  the  greater  part  of  his 
valuables  to  the  care  of  my  father,  who  concealed  them  at  his 
own  great  risk,  and  when  the  dispute  was  settled,  restored 
them  to  Monsieur,  even  to  the  most  inconsiderable  trinket. 
I mention  this  circumstance  to  show  you  that  I am  of 
a family  which  cherishes  principles  of  honour,  and  in  which 
confidence  may  be  placed.  My  father  married  a daughter 
of  Pera,  et  moi  je  suis  V unique  fruit  de  ce  mariage.  Of  my 
mother  I know  nothing,  as  she  died  shortly  after  my  birth. 
A family  of  wealthy  Jews  took  pity  on  my  forlorn  condition 
and  offered  to  bring  me  up,  to  which  my  father  gladly  con- 
sented; and  with  them  I continued  several  years,  until  I 
was  a beau  garcon  ; they  were  very  fond  of  me,  and  at  last 
offered  to  adopt  me,  and  at  their  death  to  bequeath  me  all 
they  had,  on  condition  of  my  becoming  a Jew.  Mais  la 
circoncision  n’eioit  guere  a mon  gout ; especially  that  of  the 
Jews,  for  I am  a Greek,  am  proud,  and  have  principles  of 
honour.  I quitted  them,  therefore,  saying  that  if  ever  I 
allowed  myself  to  be  converted,  it  should  be  to  the  faith  of 
the  Turks,  for  they  are  men,  are  proud,  and  have  principles 
of  honour  like  myself.  I then  returned  to  my  father,  who 
procured  me  various  situations,  none  of  which  were  to  my 
liking,  until  I was  placed  in  the  house  of  Monsieur  Zea. 

Myself. — You  mean,  I suppose,  Zea  Bermudez,  who 
chanced  to  be  at  Constantinople. 

Buchini. — Just  so,  mi  Lor,  and  with  him  I continued 
during  his  stay.  He  put  great  confidence  in  me,  more 
especially  as  I spoke  the  pure  Spanish  language,  which  I 
acquired  amongst  the  Jews,  who,  as  I have  heard  Monsieur 
Zea  say,  speak  it  better  than  the  present  natives  of  Spain. 

I shall  not  follow  the  Greek  step  by  step  throughout 
his  history,  which  was  rather  lengthy:  suffice  it  to  say, 
that  he  was  brought  by  Zea  Bermudez  from  Constantinople 
to  Spain,  where  he  continued  in  his  service  for  many  years, 
and  from  whose  house  he  was  expelled  for  marrying  a 
Guipuscoan  damsel,  who  was  fille  de  chambre  to  Madame 
Zea;  since  which  time  it  appeared  that  he  had  served  an 
infinity  of  masters;  sometimes  as  valet,  sometimes  as  cook, 
but  generally  in  the  last  capacity.  He  confessed,  however, 
that  he  had  seldom  continued  more  than  three  days  in  the 
same  service,  on  account  of  the  disputes  which  were  sure  to 
arise  in  the  house  almost  immediately  after  his  admission, 
and  for  which  he  could  assign  no  other  reason  than  his  being 

* This  was  possibly  the  period  when  Admiral  Duckworth  attempted  to 
force  the  passage  of  the  Dardanelles. 


182 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a Greek,  and  having  principles  of  honour.  Amongst  other 
persons  whom  he  had  served  was  General  Cordova,  who  he 
said  was  a bad  paymaster,  and  was  in  the  habit  of  maltreat- 
ing his  domestics.  “ But  he  found  his  match  in  me”  said 
Antonio,  “ for  I was  prepared  for  him;  and  once,  when  he 
drew  his  sword  against  me,  I pulled  out  a pistol  and  pointed 
it  in  his  face.  He  grew  pale  as  death,  and  from  that  hour 
treated  me  with  ail  kinds  of  condescension.  It  was  only 
pretence,  however,  for  the  affair  rankled  in  his  mind;  he 
had  determined  upon  revenge,  and  on  being  appointed 
to  the  command  of  the  army,  he  was  particularly  anxious 
that  I should  attend  him  to  the  camp.  Mais  je  lui  ris  au 
nez , made  the  sign  of  the  cortamanga — asked  for  my  wages, 
and  left  him;  and  well  it  was  that  I did  so,  for  the  very 
domestic  whom  he  took  with  him  he  caused  to  be  shot  upon 
a charge  of  mutiny.” 

“ I am  afraid,”  said  I,  “ that  you  are  of  a turbulent 
disposition,  and  that  the  disputes  to  which  you  have 
alluded  are  solely  to  be  attributed  to  the  badness  of  your 
temper.” 

“ What  would  you  have,  Monsieur?  Moi  je  suis  Grec, 
je  suis  fier  et  j’ai  des  principes  d’honneur . I expect  to  be 
treated  with  a certain  consideration,  though  I confess  that 
my  temper  is  none  of  the  best,  and  that  at  times  I am 
tempted  to  quarrel  with  the  pots  and  pans  in  the  kitchen. 
I think,  upon  the  whole,  that  it  will  be  for  your  advantage 
to  engage  me,  and  I promise  you  to  be  on  my  guard.  There 
is  one  thing  that  pleases  me  relating  to  you,  you  are  un- 
married. Now,  I would  rather  serve  a young  unmarried 
man  for  love  and  friendship,  than  a Benedict  for  fifty  dollars 
per  month.  Madame  is  sure  to  hate  me,  and  so  is  her 
waiting  woman;  and  more  particularly  the  latter,  because  I 
am  a married  man.  I see  that  mi  Lor  is  willing  to  engage 
me.” 

“ But  you  say  you  are  a married  man,”  I replied;  “ how 
can  you  desert  your  wife,  for  I am  about  to  leave  Madrid, 
and  to  travel  into  the  remote  and  mountainous  parts  of 
Spain.” 

“ My  wife  will  receive  the  moiety  of  my  wages,  while 
I am  absent,  mi  Lor,  and  therefore  will  have  no  reason  to 
complain  of  being  deserted.  Complain!  did  I say;  my 
wife  is  at  present  too  well  instructed  to  complain.  She 
never  speaks  nor  sits  in  my  presence  unless  I give  her 
permission.  Am  I not  a Greek,  and  do  I not  know  how  to 
govern  my  own  house?  Engage  me,  mi  Lor,  I am  a man 
of  many  capacities:  a discreet  valet,  an  excellent  cook, 

a good  groom  and  light  rider;  in  a word,  I am  Pw/uukos. 
What  would  you  more?  ” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


183 


I asked  him  his  terms,  which  were  extravagant,  not- 
withstanding his  principes  d’honneur.  I found,  however, 
that  he  was  willing  to  take  one  half. 

I had  no  sooner  engaged  him,  than  seizing  the  tureen 
of  soup,  which  had  by  this  time  become  quite  cold,  he 
placed  it  on  the  top  of  his  forefinger,  or  rather  on  the  nail 
thereof,  causing  it  to  make  various  circumvolutions  over  his 
head,  to  my  great  astonishment,  without  spilling  a drop, 
then  springing  with  it  to  the  door,  he  vanished,  and  in 
another  moment  made  his  appearance  with  the  puchera, 
which,  after  a similar  bound  and  flourish,  he  deposited  on 
the  table;  then  suffering  his  hands  to  sink  before  him,  he 
put  one  over  the  other  and  stood  at  his  ease  with  half-shut 
eyes,  for  all  the  world  as  if  he  had  been  in  my  service 
twenty  years. 

And  in  this  manner  Antonio  Buchini  entered  upon  his 
duties.  Many  was  the  wild  spot  to  which  he  subsequently 
accompanied  me;  many  the  wild  adventure  of  which  he  was 
the  sharer.  His  behaviour  was  frequently  in  the  highest 
degree  extraordinary,  but  he  served  me  courageously  and 
faithfully:  such  a valet,  take  him  for  all  in  all, 

“ His  like  I ne’er  expect  to  see  again.” 

Kosko  bakh  Anton . 


CHAPTER  XX 

Illness — Nocturnal  Visit — A Master  Mind — The  Whisper — Salamanca — 

Irish  Hospitality — Spanish  Soldiers — The  Scriptures  advertised. 

But  I am  anxious  to  enter  upon  the  narrative  of  my  journey, 
and  shall  therefore  abstain  from  relating  to  my  readers 
a great  many  circumstances  which  occurred  previously  to 
my  leaving  Madrid  on  this  expedition.  About  the  middle 
of  May  I had  got  everything  in  readiness,  and  I bade  farewell 
to  my  friends.  Salamanca  was  the  first  place  which  I 
intended  to  visit. 

Some  days  previous  to  my  departure  I was  very  much 
indisposed,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  for  violent 
and  biting  winds  had  long  prevailed.  I had  been  attacked 
with  a severe  cold,  which  terminated  in  a disagreeable 
cough,  which  the  many  remedies  I successively  tried 
seemed  unable  to  subdue.  I had  made  preparations  for 
departing  on  a particular  day,  but,  owing  to  the  state  of  my 
health,  I was  apprehensive  that  I should  be  compelled  to 
defer  my  journey  for  a time.  The  last  day  of  my  stay  in 
Madrid,  finding  myself  scarcely  able  to  stand,  I was  fain  to 


184 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


submit  to  a somewhat  desperate  experiment,  and  by  the 
advice  of  the  barber-surgeon  who  visited  me,  I determined 
to  be  bled.  Late  on  the  night  of  that  same  day  he  took 
from  me  sixteen  ounces  of  blood,  and  having  received  his 
fee  left  me,  wishing  me  a pleasant  journey,  and  assuring  me, 
upon  his  reputation,  that  by  noon  the  next  day  I should  be 
perfectly  recovered. 

A few  minutes  after  his  departure,  whilst  I was  sitting 
alone,  meditating  on  the  journey  which  I was  about  to 
undertake,  and  on  the  ricketty  state  of  my  health,  I heard 
a loud  knock  at  the  street  door  of  the  house,  on  the  third 

floor  of  which  I was  lodged.  In  another  minute  Mr.  S 

of  the  British  Embassy  entered  my  apartment.  After  a 
little  conversation,  he  informed  me  that  Mr.  Viliiers  had 
desired  him  to  wait  upon  me  to  communicate  a resolution 
which  he  had  come  to.  Being  apprehensive  that,  alone  and 
unassisted,  I should  experience  great  difficulty  in  propagat- 
ing the  gospel  of  God  to  any  considerable  extent  in  Spain, 
he  was  bent  upon  exerting  to  the  utmost  his  own  credit 
and  influence  to  further  my  views,  which  he  himself  con- 
sidered, if  carried  into  proper  effect,  extremely  well  calculated 
to  operate  beneficially  on  the  political  and  moral  state  of  the 
country.  To  this  end  it  was  his  intention  to  purchase 
a very  considerable  number  of  copies  of  the  New  Testament, 
and  to  dispatch  them  forthwith  to  the  various  British  consuls 
established  in  different  parts  of  Spain,  with  strict  and 
positive  orders  to  employ  all  the  means  which  their  official 
situation  should  afford  them  to  circulate  the  books  in  question 
and  to  assure  their  being  noticed.  They  were,  moreover, 
to  be  charged  to  afford  me,  whenever  I should  appear  in 
their  respective  districts,  all  the  protection,  encouragement, 
and  assistance  which  I should  stand  in  need  of. 

I was  of  course  much  rejoiced  on  receiving  this  informa- 
tion, for  though  I had  long  been  aware  that  Mr.  Viliiers 
was  at  all  times  willing  to  assist  me,  he  having  frequently 
given  me  sufficient  proof,  I could  never  expect  that  he  would 
come  forward  in  so  noble,  and,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  consider- 
ing his  high  diplomatic  situation,  so  bold  and  decided  a 
manner.  I believe  that  this  was  the  first  instance  of  a 
British  ambassador  having  made  the  cause  of  the  Bible 
Society  a national  one,  or  indeed  of  having  favoured  it 
directly  or  indirectly.  What  renders  the  case  of  Mr.  Viliiers 
more  remarkable  is,  that  on  my  first  arrival  at  Madrid 
I found  him  by  no  means  well  disposed  towards  the  Society. 
The  Holy  Spirit  had  probably  illumined  his  mind  on  this 
point.  I hoped  that  by  his  means  our  institution  would 
shortly  possess  many  agents  in  Spain,  who,  with  far  more 
power  and  better  opportunities  than  I myself  could  ever 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


185 


expect  to  possess,  would  scatter  abroad  the  seed  of  the 
gospel,  and  make  of  a barren  and  thirsty  wilderness  a green 
and  smiling  corn-field. 

A word  or  two  about  the  gentleman  who  paid  me  this 
nocturnal  visit.  Though  he  has  probably  long  since 
forgotten  the  humble  circulator  of  the  Bible  in  Spain,  I 
still  bear  in  mind  numerous  acts  of  kindness  which  I ex- 
perienced at  his  hands.  Endowed  with  an  intellect  of  the 
highest  order,  master  of  the  lore  of  all  Europe,  profoundly 
versed  in  the  ancient  tongues,  and  speaking  most  of  the 
modern  dialects  with  remarkable  facility, — possessed, 
moreover,  of  a thorough  knowledge  of  mankind, — he 
brought  with  him  into  the  diplomatic  career  advantages 
such  as  few,  even  the  most  highly  gifted,  can  boast  of. 
During  his  sojourn  in  Spain  he  performed  many  eminent 
services  for  the  government  which  employed  him;  services 
which,  I believe,  it  had  sufficient  discernment  to  see, 
and  gratitude  to  reward.  He  had  to  encounter,  however, 
the  full  brunt  of  the  low  and  stupid  malignity  of  the  party 
who,  shortly  after  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking,  usurped 
the  management  of  the  affairs  of  Spain.  This  party,  whose 
foolish  manoeuvres  he  was  continually  discomfiting,  feared 
and  hated  him  as  its  evil  genius,  taking  every  opportunity  of 
showering  on  his  head  calumnies  the  most  improbable  and 
absurd.  Amongst  other  things,  he  was  accused  of  having 
acted  as  an  agent  to  the  English  government  in  the  affair 
of  the  Granja,  bringing  about  that  revolution  by  bribing 
the  mutinous  soldiers,  and  more  particularly  the  notorious 
Sergeant  Garcia.  Such  an  accusation  will  of  course  merely 
extract  a smile  from  those  who  are  at  all  acquainted  with 
the  English  character,  and  the  general  line  of  conduct 
pursued  by  the  English  government.  It  was  a charge, 
however,  universally  believed  in  Spain,  and  was  even 
preferred  in  print  by  a certain  journal,  the  official  organ  of 
the  silly  Duke  of  Frias,  one  of  the  many  prime  ministers 
of  the  moderado  party  who  followed  each  other  in  rapid 
succession  towards  the  latter  period  of  the  Carlist  and 
Ghristino  struggle.  But  when  did  a calumnious  report  ever 
fall  to  the  ground  in  Spain  by  the  weight  of  its  own  absurdity? 
Unhappy  land,  not  until  the  pure  light  of  the  Gospel  has 
illumined  thee  wilt  thou  learn  that  the  greatest  of  all  gifts 
is  charity. 

The  next  day  verified  the  prediction  of  the  Spanish 
surgeon;  I had  to  a considerable  degree  lost  my  cough  and 
fever,  though,  owing  to  the  loss  of  blood,  I was  somewhat 
feeble.  Precisely  at  twelve  o'clock  the  horses  were  led  forth 
before  the  door  of  my  lodging  in  the  Calle  de  Santiago,  and 
I prepared  to  mount:  but  my  black  entero  of  Andalusia 


186 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


would  not  permit  me  to  approach  his  side,  and  whenever 
I made  the  attempt,  commenced  wheeling  round  with  great 
rapidity. 

“ C’est  un  mauvais  signe , mon  maitre  ” said  Antonio, 
who,  dressed  in  a green  jerkin,  a Montero  cap,  booted  and 
spurred,  stood  ready  to  attend  me,  holding  by  the  bridle 
the  horse  which  I had  purchased  from  the  contrabandista. 
“ It  is  a bad  sign,  and  in  my  country  they  would  defer  the 
journey  till  to-morrow.” 

“ Are  there  whisperers  in  your  country?  ” I demanded; 
and  taking  the  horse  by  the  mane,  I performed  the  ceremony 
after  the  most  approved  fashion:  the  animal  stood  stili, 
and  I mounted  the  saddle,  exclaiming: — 

“ The  Rommany  Chal  to  his  horse  did  cry, 

As  he  placed  the  bit  in  his  horse’s  jaw  ; 

Kosko  gry  ! Rommany  gry  ! 

Muk  man  kistur  tute  knaw.” 

We  then  rode  forth  from  Madrid  by  the  gate  of  San  Vincente, 
directing  our  course  to  the  lofty  mountains  which  separate 
Old  from  New  Castile.  That  night  we  rested  at  Guadarama, 
a large  village  at  their  foot,  distant  from  Madrid  about 
seven  leagues.  Rising  early  on  the  following  morning, 
we  ascended  the  pass  and  entered  into  Old  Castile. 

After  crossing  the  mountains,  the  route  to  Salamanca 
lies  almost  entirely  over  sandy  and  arid  plains,  interspersed 
here  and  there  with  thin  and  scanty  groves  of  pine.  No 
adventure  worth  relating  occurred  during  this  journey. 
We  sold  a few  Testaments  in  the  villages  through  which  we 
passed,  more  especially  at  Penaranda.  About  noon  of  the 
third  day,  on  reaching  the  brow  of  a hillock,  we  saw  a huge 
dome  before  us,  upon  which  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun 
striking,  produced  the  appearance  of  burnished  gold.  It 
belonged  to  the  cathedral  of  Salamanca,  and  we  flattered 
ourselves  that  we  were  already  at  our  journey's  end;  we 
were  deceived,  however,  being  still  four  leagues  distant  from 
the  town,  whose  churches  and  convents,  towering  up  in 
gigantic  masses,  can  be  distinguished  at  an  immense 
distance,  flattering  the  traveller  with  an  idea  of  propinquity 
which  does  not  in  reality  exist.  It  was  not  till  long  after 
nightfall  that  we  arrived  at  the  city  gate,  which  we  found 
closed  and  guarded,  in  apprehension  of  a Carlist  attack; 
and  having  obtained  admission  with  some  difficulty,  we  led 
our  horses  along  dark,  silent,  and  deserted  streets,  till  we 
found  an  individual  who  directed  us  to  a large,  gloomy, 
and  comfortless  posada,  that  of  the  Bull,  which  we,  however, 
subsequently  found  was  the  best  which  the  town  afforded. 

A melancholy  town  is  Salamanca;  the  days  of  its 


187 


THE  BIBLfe  IN  SPAIN 

collegiate  glory  are  long  since  past  by,  never  more  to  return: 
a circumstance,  however,  which  is  little  to  be  regretted; 
for  what  benefit  did  the  world  ever  derive  from  scholastic 
philosophy?  And  for  that  alone  was  Salamanca  ever  famous. 
Its  halls  are  now  almost  silent,  and  grass  is  growing  in  its 
courts,  which  were  once  daily  thronged  by  at  least  eight 
thousand  students;  a number  to  which,  at  the  present  day, 
the  entire  population  of  the  city  does  not  amount.  Yet, 
with  all  its  melancholy,  what  an  interesting,  nay,  what  a 
magnificent  place  is  Salamanca  1 How  glorious  are  its 
churches,  how  stupendous  are  its  deserted  convents,  and 
with  what  sublime  but  sullen  grandeur  do  its  huge  and 
crumbling  walls,  which  crown  the  precipitous  bank  of  the 
Tonnes,  look  down  upon  the  lovely  river  and  its  venerable 
bridge. 

What  a pity  that,  of  the  many  rivers  in  Spain,  scarcely 
one  is  navigable.  The  beautiful  but  shallow  Tormes, 
instead  of  proving  a source  of  blessing  and  wealth  to  this 
part  of  Castile,  is  of  no  further  utility  than  to  turn  the  wheels 
of  various  small  water  mills,  standing  upon  weirs  of  stone, 
which  at  certain  distances  traverse  the  river. 

My  sojourn  at  Salamanca  was  rendered  particularly 
pleasant  by  the  kind  attentions  and  continual  acts  of 
hospitality  which  I experienced  from  the  inmates  of  the 
Irish  College,  to  the  rector  of  which  I bore  a letter  of 
recommendation  from  my  kind  and  excellent  friend  Mr. 
O’Shea,  the  celebrated  banker  of  Madrid.  It  will  be  long 
before  I forget  these  Irish,  more  especially  their  head, 
Dr.  Gartland,  a genuine  scion  of  the  good  Hibernian  tree, 
an  accomplished  scholar,  and  a courteous  and  high-minded 
gentleman.  Though  fully  aware  who  I was,  he  held  out 
the  hand  of  friendship  to  the  wandering  heretic  missionary, 
although  by  so  doing  he  exposed  himself  to  the  rancorous 
remarks  of  the  narrow-minded  native  clergy,  who,  in  their 
ugly  shovel  hats  and  long  cloaks,  glared  at  me  askance 
as  I passed  by  their  whispering  groups  beneath  the  piazzas 
of  the  Plaza.  But  when  did  the  fear  of  consequences 
cause  an  Irishman  to  shrink  from  the  exercise  of  the  duties 
of  hospitality?  However  attached  to  his  religion — and 
who  is  so  attached  to  the  Romish  creed  as  the  Irishman? — 
I am  convinced  that  not  all  the  authority  of  the  Pope 
or  the  Cardinals  would  induce  him  to  close  his  doors  on 
Luther  himself,  were  that  respectable  personage  at  present 
alive  and  in  need  of  food  and  refuge. 

Honour  to  Ireland  and  her  “ hundred  thousand  wel- 
comes! ” Her  fields  have  long  been  the  greenest  in  the 
world;  her  daughters  the  fairest;  her  sons  the  bravest 
and  most  eloquent.  May  they  never  cease  to  be  so. 


188 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


The  posada  where  I had  put  up  was  a good  specimen 
of  the  old  Spanish  inn,  being  much  the  same  as  those 
described  in  the  time  of  Philip  the  Third  or  Fourth.  The 
rooms  were  many  and  large,  floored  with  either  brick 
or  stone,  generally  with  an  alcove  at  the  end,  in  which 
stood  a wretched  flock  bed.  Behind  the  house  was  a court, 
and  in  the  rear  of  this  a stable,  full  of  horses,  ponies,  mules, 
machos,  and  donkeys,  for  there  was  no  lack  of  guests, 
who,  however,  for  the  most  part  slept  in  the  stable  with 
their  caballerias,  being  either  arrieros  or  small  peddling 
merchants  who  travelled  the  country  with  coarse  cloth  or 
linen.  Opposite  to  my  room  in  the  corridor  lodged  a 
wounded  officer,  who  had  just  arrived  from  San  Sebastian 
on  a galled  broken-kneed  pony;  he  was  an  Estrimenian, 
and  was  returning  to  his  own  village  to  be  cured.  He 
was  attended  by  three  broken  soldiers,  lame  or  maimed, 
and  unfit  for  service:  they  told  me  that  they  were  of  the 
same  village  as  his  worship,  and  on  that  account  he  per- 
mitted them  to  travel  with  him.  They  slept  amongst  the 
litter,  and  throughout  the  day  lounged  about  the  house 
smoking  paper  cigars.  I never  saw  them  eating,  though 
they  frequently  went  to  a dark  cool  corner,  where  stood 
a bota  or  kind  of  water  pitcher,  which  they  held  about 
six  inches  from  their  black  filmy  lips,  permitting  the  liquid 
to  trickle  down  their  throats.  They  said  they  had  no  pay, 
and  were  quite  destitute  of  money,  that  su  merced  the 
officer  occasionally  gave  them  a piece  of  bread,  but  that 
he  himself  was  poor  and  had  only  a few  dollars.  Brave 
guests  for  an  inn,  thought  I;  yet,  to  the  honour  of  Spain 
be  it  spoken,  it  is  one  of  the  few  countries  in  Europe  where 
poverty  is  never  insulted  nor  looked  upon  with  contempt. 
Even  at  an  inn,  the  poor  man  is  never  spurned  from  the 
door,  and  if  not  harboured,  is  at  least  dismissed  with 
fair  words,  and  consigned  to  the  mercies  of  God  and  his 
mother.  This  is  as  it  should  be.  I laugh  at  the  bigotry 
and  prejudices  of  Spain;  I abhor  the  cruelty  and  ferocity 
which  have  cast  a stain  of  eternal  infamy  on  her  history; 
but  I will  say  for  the  Spaniards,  that  in  their  social  inter- 
course no  people  in  the  world  exhibit  a juster  feeling  of 
what  is  due  to  the  dignity  of  human  nature,  or  better 
understand  the  behaviour  which  it  behoves  a man  to 
adopt  towards  his  fellow  beings.  I have  said  that  it  is 
one  of  the  few  countries  in  Europe  where  poverty  is  not 
treated  with  contempt,  and  I may  add,  where  the  wealthy 
are  not  blindly  idolized.  In  Spain  the  very  beggar  does 
not  feel  himself  a degraded  being,  for  he  kisses  no  one's 
feet,  and  knows  not  what  it  is  to  be  cuffed  or  spitten  upon; 
and  in  Spain  the  duke  or  the  marquis  can  scarcely  entertain 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


189 


a very  overweening  opinion  of  his  own  consequence,  as 
he  finds  no  one,  with  perhaps  the  exception  of  his  French 
valet,  to  fawn  upon  or  flatter  him. 

During  my  stay  at  Salamanca,  I took  measures  that 
the  word  of  God  might  become  generally  known  in  this 
celebrated  city.  The  principal  bookseller  of  the  town, 
Blanco,  a man  of  great  wealth  and  respectability,  consented 
to  become  my  agent  here,  and  I in  consequence  deposited 
in  his  shop  a certain  number  of  New  Testaments.  He 
was  the  proprietor  of  a small  printing  press,  where  the 
official  bulletin  of  the  place  was  published.  For  this 
bulletin  I prepared  an  advertisement  of  the  work,  in  which, 
amongst  other  things,  I said  that  the  New  Testament 
was  the  only  guide  to  salvation;  I also  spoke  of  the  Bible 
Society,  and  the  great  pecuniary  sacrifices  which  it  was 
making  with  the  view  of  proclaiming  Christ  crucified, 
and  of  making  his  doctrine  known.  This  step  will  perhaps 
be  considered  by  some  as  too  bold,  but  I was  not  aware 
that  I could  take  any  more  calculated  to  arouse  the  attention 
of  the  people — a considerable  point.  I also  ordered  numbers 
of  the  same  advertisement  to  be  struck  off  in  the  shape 
of  bills,  which  I caused  to  be  stuck  up  in  various  parts  of 
the  town.  I had  great  hope  that  by  means  of  these  a 
considerable  number  of  New  Testaments  would  be  sold. 
I intended  to  repeat  this  experiment  in  Valladolid,  Leon, 
St.  Jago,  and  all  the  principal  towns  which  I visited,  and 
to  distribute  them  likewise  as  I rode  along:  the  children 
of  Spain  would  thus  be  brought  to  know  that  such  a work 
as  the  New  Testament  is  in  existence,  a fact  of  which 
not  five  in  one  hundred  were  then  aware,  notwithstand- 
ing their  so  frequently-repeated  boasts  of  their  Catholicity 
and  Christianity. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Departure  from  Salamanca — Reception  at  Pitiegua — The  Dilemma — 
Sudden  Inspiration — The  Good  Presbyter — Combat  of  Quadrupeds 
— Irish  Christians — Plains  of  Spain — The  Catalans — The  Fatal  Pool 
— Valladolid — Circulation  of  the  Scriptures — Philippine  Missions — 
English  College — A Conversation — The  Gaoleress. 

On  Saturday,  the  tenth  of  June,  I left  Salamanca  for 
Valladolid.  As  the  village  where  we  intended  to  rest 
was  only  five  leagues  distant,  we  did  not  sally  forth  till 
midday  was  past.  There  was  a haze  in  the  heavens  which 
overcast  the  sun,  nearly  hiding  his  countenance  from  our 
view.  My  friend,  Mr.  Patrick  Cantwell,  of  the  Irish 


190 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


College,  was  kind  enough  to  ride  with  me  part  of  the  way. 
He  was  mounted  on  a most  sorry -looking  hired  mule, 
which  I expected  would  be  unable  to  keep  pace  with  the 
spirited  horses  of  myself  and  man,  for  he  seemed  to  be 
twin  brother  of  the  mule  of  Gil  Perez,  on  which  his  nephew 
made  his  celebrated  journey  from  Oviedo  to  Penaflor. 
I was,  however,  very  much  mistaken.  The  creature  on 
being  mounted  instantly  set  off  at  that  rapid  walk  which 
I have  so  often  admired  in  Spanish  mules,  and  which  no 
horse  can  emulate.  Our  more  stately  animals  were  speedily 
left  in  the  rear,  and  we  were  continually  obliged  to  break 
into  a trot  to  follow  the  singular  quadruped,  who,  ever  and 
anon,  would  lift  his  head  high  in  the  air,  curl  up  his  lip, 
and  show  his  yellow  teeth,  as  if  he  were  laughing  at  us, 
as  perhaps  he  was.  It  chanced  that  none  of  us  was  well 
acquainted  with  the  road;  indeed,  I could  see  nothing 
which  was  fairly  entitled  to  that  appellation.  The  way 
from  Salamanca  to  Valladolid  is  amongst  a medley  of 
bridle-paths  and  drift-ways,  where  discrimination  is  very 
difficult.  It  was  not  long  before  we  were  bewildered, 
and  travelled  over  more  ground  than  was  strictly  necessary. 
However,  as  men  and  women  frequently  passed  on  donkeys 
and  little  ponies,  we  were  not  too  proud  to  be  set  right  by 
them,  and  by  dint  of  diligent  inquiry  we  at  length  arrived 
at  Pitiegua,  four  leagues  from  Salamanca,  a small  village, 
containing  about  fifty  families,  consisting  of  mud  huts, 
and  situated  in  the  midst  of  dusty  plains,  where  corn  was 
growing  in  abundance.  We  asked  for  the  house  of  the 
cura,  an  old  man  whom  I had  seen  the  day  before  at  the 
Irish  College,  and  who,  on  being  informed  that  I was  about 
to  depart  for  Valladolid,  had  exacted  from  me  a promise 
that  I would  not  pass  through  his  village  without  paying 
him  a visit  and  partaking  of  his  hospitality. 

A woman  directed  us  to  a cottage  somewhat  superior 
in  appearance  to  those  contiguous.  It  had  a small  portico, 
which,  if  I remember  well,  was  overgrown  with  a vine. 
We  knocked  loud  and  long  at  the  door,  but  received  no 
answer;  the  voice  of  man  was  silent,  and  not  even  a dog 
barked.  The  truth  was,  that  the  old  curate  was  taking 
his  siesta,  and  so  were  his  whole  family,  which  consisted 
of  one  ancient  female  and  a cat.  The  good  man  was  at 
last  disturbed  by  our  noise  and  vociferation,  for  we  were 
hungry,  and  consequently  impatient.  Leaping  from  his 
couch,  he  came  running  to  the  door  in  great  hurry  and 
confusion,  and  perceiving  us,  he  made  many  apologies  for 
being  asleep  at  a period  when,  he  said,  he  ought  to  have 
been  on  the  lookout  for  his  invited  guest.  He  embraced 
me  very  affectionately  and  conducted  me  into  his  parlour, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


191 


an  apartment  of  tolerable  size,  hung  round  with  shelves, 
which  were  crowded  with  books.  At  one  end  there  was 
a kind  of  table  or  desk  covered  with  black  leather,  with  a 
large  easy  chair,  into  which  he  pushed  me,  as  I,  with  the 
true  eagerness  of  a bibliomaniac,  was  about  to  inspect 
his  shelves;  saying,  with  considerable  vehemence,  that 
there  was  nothing  there  worthy  of  the  attention  of  an 
Englishman,  for  that  his  whole  stock  consisted  of  breviaries 
and  dry  Catholic  treatises  on  divinity. 

His  care  now  was  to  furnish  us  with  refreshments. 
In  a twinkling,  with  the  assistance  of  his  old  attendant, 
he  placed  on  the  table  several  plates  of  cakes  and  con- 
fectionery, and  a number  of  large  uncouth  glass  bottles, 
which  I thought  bore  a strong  resemblance  to  those  of 
Schiedam,  and  indeed  they  were  the  very  same.  “ There,” 
said  he,  rubbing  his  hands;  “ I thank  God  that  it  is  in 
my  power  to  treat  you  in  a way  which  will  be  agreeable  to 
you.  In  those  bottles  there  is  Hollands  thirty  years  old  ”; 
and  producing  two  large  tumblers,  he  continued,  “ fill, 
my  friends,  and  drink,  drink  it  every  drop  if  you  please, 
for  it  is  of  little  use  to  myself,  who  seldom  drink  aught  but 
water.  I know  that  you  islanders  love  it,  and  cannot  live 
without  it;  therefore,  since  it  does  you  good,  I am  only 
sorry  that  there  is  no  more/* 

Observing  that  we  contented  ourselves  with  merely 
tasting  it,  he  looked  at  us  with  astonishment,  and  inquired 
the  reason  of  our  not  drinking.  We  told  him  that  we 
seldom  drank  ardent  spirits;  and  I added,  that  as  for 
myself,  I seldom  tasted  even  wine,  but  like  himself,  was 
content  with  the  use  of  water.  He  appeared  somewhat 
incredulous,  but  told  us  to  do  exactly  what  we  pleased, 
and  to  ask  for  what  was  agreeable  to  us.  We  told  him 
that  we  had  not  dined,  and  should  be  glad  of  some  sub- 
stantial refreshment.  “ I am  afraid,”  said  he,  “ that  I 
have  nothing  in  the  house  which  will  suit  you;  however, 
we  will  go  and  see.” 

Thereupon  he  led  us  through  a small  yard  at  the  back 
part  of  his  house,  which  might  have  been  called  a garden, 
or  orchard,  if  it  had  displayed  either  trees  or  flowers;  but 
it  produced  nothing  but  grass,  which  was  growing  in  luxuri- 
ance. At  one  end  was  a large  pigeon-house,  which  we 
all  entered:  “ for,”  said  the  curate,  “ if  we  could  find  some 
nice  delicate  pigeons  they  would  afford  you  an  excellent 
dinner.”  We  were,  however,  disappointed;  for  after 
rummaging  the  nests,  we  only  found  very  young  ones, 
unfitted  for  our  purpose.  The  good  man  became  very 
melancholy,  and  said  he  had  some  misgivings  that  we 
should  have  to  depart  dinnerless.  Leaving  the  pigeon- 


192 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


house,  he  conducted  us  to  a place  where  there  were  several 
skeps  of  bees,  round  which  multitudes  of  the  busy  insects 
were  hovering,  filling  the  air  with  their  music.  “ Next  to 
my  fellow  creatures,”  said  he,  “ there  is  nothing  which  I 
love  so  dearly  as  these  bees;  it  is  one  of  my  delights  to  sit 
watching  them,  and  listening  to  their  murmur.”  We 
next  went  to  several  unfurnished  rooms,  fronting  the  yard, 
in  one  of  which  were  hanging  several  flitches  of  bacon, 
beneath  which  he  stopped,  and  looking  up,  gazed  intently 
upon  them.  We  told  him  that  if  he  had  nothing  better  to 
offer,  we  should  be  very  glad  to  eat  some  slices  of  this  bacon, 
especially  if  some  eggs  were  added.  “ To  tell  the  truth,” 
said  he,  “ I have  nothing  better,  and  if  you  can  content 
yourselves  with  such  fare  I shall  be  very  happy;  as  for 
eggs  you  can  have  as  many  as  you  wish,  and  perfectly  fresh, 
for  my  hens  lay  every  day.” 

So,  after  every  thing  was  prepared  and  arranged  to 
our  satisfaction,  we  sat  down  to  dine  on  the  bacon  and 
eggs,  in  a small  room,  not  the  one  to  which  he  had  ushered 
us  at  first,  but  on  the  other  side  of  the  doorway.  The  good 
curate,  though  he  ate  nothing,  having  taken  his  meal  long 
before,  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and  the  repast  was 
enlivened  by  his  chat.  “ There,  my  friends,”  said  he, 
“ where  you  are  now  seated,  once  sat  Wellington  and 
Crawford,  after  they  had  beat  the  French  at  Arapiles,  and 
rescued  us  from  the  thraldom  of  those  wicked  people. 
I never  respected  my  house  so  much  as  I have  done  since 
they  honoured  it  with  their  presence.  They  were  heroes, 
and  one  was  a demigod.”  He  then  burst  into  a most 
eloquent  panegyric  of  El  Gran  Lord,  as  he  termed  him, 
which  I should  be  very  happy  to  translate,  were  my  pen 
capable  of  rendering  into  English  the  robust  thundering 
sentences  of  his  powerful  Castilian.  I had  till  then  con- 
sidered him  a plain  uninformed  old  man,  almost  simple, 
and  as  incapable  of  much  emotion  as  a tortoise  within  its 
shell;  but  he  had  become  at  once  inspired:  his  eyes  were 
replete  with  a bright  fire,  and  every  muscle  of  his  face 
was  quivering.  The  little  silk  skull-cap  which  he  wore, 
according  to  the  custom  of  the  Catholic  clergy,  moved  up 
and  down  with  his  agitation,  and  I soon  saw  that  I was 
in  the  presence  of  one  of  those  remarkable  men  who  so 
frequently  spring  up  in  the  bosom  of  the  Romish  church, 
and  who  to  a child-like  simplicity  unite  immense  energy 
and  power  of  mind, — equally  adapted  to  guide  a scanty 
flock  of  ignorant  rustics  in  some  obscure  village  in  Italy 
or  Spain,  as  to  convert  millions  of  heathens  on  the  shores 
of  Japan,  China,  and  Paraguay. 

He  was  a thin  spare  man,  of  about  sixty-five,  and  was 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


193 


dressed  in  a black  cloak  of  very  coarse  materials,  nor  were 
his  other  garments  of  superior  quality.  This  plainness, 
however,  in  the  appearance  of  his  outward  man  was  by 
no  means  the  result  of  poverty;  quite  the  contrary.  The 
benefice  was  a very  plentiful  one,  and  placed  at  his  disposal 
annually  a sum  of  at  least  eight  hundred  dollars,  of  which 
the  eighth  part  was  more  than  sufficient  to  defray  the 
expenses  of  his  house  and  himself;  the  rest  was  devoted 
entirely  to  the  purest  acts  of  charity.  He  fed  the  hungry 
wanderer,  and  dispatched  him  singing  on  his  way,  with 
meat  in  his  wallet  and  a peseta  in  his  purse,  and  his 
parishioners,  when  in  need  of  money,  had  only  to  repair 
to  his  study  and  were  sure  of  an  immediate  supply.  He 
was,  indeed,  the  banker  of  the  village,  and  what  he  lent 
he  neither  expected  nor  wished  to  be  returned.  Though 
under  the  necessity  of  making  frequent  journeys  to  Sala- 
manca, he  kept  no  mule,  but  contented  himself  with  an 
ass,  borrowed  from  the  neighbouring  miller.  “ I once 
kept  a mule,”  said  he,  “ but  some  years  since  it  was  removed 
without  my  permission  by  a traveller  whom  I had  housed 
for  the  night:  for  in  that  alcove  I keep  two  clean  beds 
for  the  use  of  the  wayfaring,  and  I shall  be  very  much 
pleased  if  yourself  and  friend  will  occupy  them,  and  tarry 
with  me  till  the  morning.” 

But  I was  eager  to  continue  my  journey,  and  my  friend 
was  no  less  anxious  to  return  to  Salamanca.  Upon  taking 
leave  of  the  hospitable  curate,  I presented  him  with  a copy 
of  the  New  Testament.  He  received  it  without  uttering 
a single  word,  and  placed  it  on  one  of  the  shelves  of  his 
study;  but  I observed  him  nodding  significantly  to  the 
Irish  student,  perhaps  as  much  as  to  say,  “ Your  friend 
loses  no  opportunity  of  propagating  his  book”;  for  he 
was  well  aware  who  I was.  I shall  not  speedily  forget  the 
truly  good  presbyter,  Anthonio  Garcia  de  Aguilar,  Cura 
of  Pitiegua. 

We  reached  Pedroso  shortly  before  nightfall.  It 
was  a small  village  containing  about  thirty  houses,  and 
intersected  by  a rivulet,  or  as  it  is  called  a regata.  On  its 
banks  women  and  maidens  were  washing  their  linen  and 
singing  couplets;  the  church  stood  lone  and  solitary  on 
the  farther  side.  We  inquired  for  the  posada,  and  were 
shown  a cottage  differing  nothing  from  the  rest  in  general 
appearance.  We  called  at  the  door  in  vain,  as  it  is  not  the 
custom  of  Castile  for  the  people  of  these  halting  places 
to  go  out  to  welcome  their  visitors:  at  last  we  dismounted 
and  entered  the  house,  demanding  of  a sullen-looking  woman 
where  we  were  to  place  the  horses.  She  said  there  was 
a stable  within  the  house,  but  we  could  not  put  the  animals 
33— g 


194 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


there  as  it  contained  malos  machos  (savage  mutes)  belonging 
to  two  travellers  who  would  certainly  fight  with  our  horses, 
and  then  there  would  be  a funcion,  which  would  tear  the 
house  down.  She  then  pointed  to  an  outhouse  across  the 
way,  saying  that  we  could  stable  them  there.  We  entered 
this  place,  which  we  found  full  of  filth  and  swine,  with  a 
door  without  a lock.  I thought  of  the  fate  of  the  cura’s 
mule,  and  was  unwilling  to  trust  the  horses  in  such  a place, 
abandoning  them  to  the  mercy  of  any  robber  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. I therefore  entered  the  house,  and  said  resol- 
utely, that  I was  determined  to  place  them  in  the  stable. 
Two  men  were  squatted  on  the  ground,  with  an  immense 
bowl  of  stewed  hare  before  them,  on  which  they  were 
supping;  these  were  the  travelling  merchants,  the  masters 
of  the  mutes.  I passed  on  to  the  stable,  one  of  the  men 
saying  softly,  “ Yes,  yes,  go  in  and  see  what  will  befall.” 
I had  no  sooner  entered  the  stable  than  I heard  a horrid 
discordant  cry,  something  between  a bray  and  a yell, 
and  the  largest  of  the  machos,  tearing  his  head  from  the 
manger  to  which  he  was  fastened,  his  eyes  shooting  flames, 
and  breathing  a whirlwind  from  his  nostrils,  flung  himself 
on  my  stallion.  The  horse,  as  savage  as  himself,  reared 
on  his  hind  legs,  and  after  the  fashion  of  an  English  pugilist, 
repaid  the  other  with  a pat  on  the  forehead,  which  nearly 
felled  him.  A combat  instantly  ensued,  and  I thought 
that  the  words  of  the  sullen  woman  would  be  verified 
by  the  house  being  torn  to  pieces.  It  ended  by  my  seizing 
the  mute  by  the  halter,  at  the  risk  of  my  limbs,  and  hanging 
upon  him  with  all  my  weight,  whilst  Antonio,  with  much 
difficulty,  removed  the  horse.  The  man  who  had  been 
standing  at  the  entrance  now  came  forward,  saying,  “ This 
would  not  have  happened  if  you  had  taken  good  advice.” 
Upon  my  stating  to  him  the  unreasonableness  of  expecting 
that  I would  risk  horses  in  a place  where  they  would 
probably  be  stolen  before  the  morning,  he  replied,  “ True, 
true,  you  have  perhaps  done  right.”  He  then  refastened 
his  macho,  adding  for  additional  security  a piece  of  whip- 
cord, which  he  said  rendered  escape  impossible. 

After  supper  I roamed  about  the  village.  I addressed 
two  or  three  labourers  whom  I found  standing  at  their 
doors;  they  appeared,  however,  exceedingly  reserved, 
and  with  a gruff  “ buenas  noches  ” turned  into  their  houses 
without  inviting  me  to  enter.  I at  last  found  my  way  to 
the  church  porch,  where  I continued  some  time  in  medita- 
tion. At  last  I bethought  myself  of  retiring  to  rest;  before 
departing,  however,  I took  out  and  affixed  to  the  porch 
of  the  church  an  advertisement  to  the  effect  that  the 
New  Testament  was  to  be*  purchased  at  Salamanca.  On 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


195 


returning  to  the  house,  I found  the  two  travelling  merchants 
enjoying  profound  slumber  on  various  mantas  or  mule- 
cloths  stretched  on  the  floor.  “ You  are  a French  mer- 
chant, I suppose,  Caballero,”  said  a man,  who  it  seemed 
was  the  master  of  the  house,  and  whom  I had  not  before 
seen.  “ You  are  a French  merchant,  I suppose,  and  are 
on  the  way  to  the  fair  of  Medina.”  “ I am  neither  French- 
man nor  merchant,”  I replied,  “ and  though  I purpose 
passing  through  Medina,  it  is  not  with  the  view  of  attending 
the  fair.”  “ Then  you  are  one  of  the  Irish  Christians 
from  Salamanca,  Caballero,”  said  the  man;  “ I hear 
you  come  from  that  town.”  “ Why  do  you  call  them 
Irish  Christians  ? ” I replied.  “ Are  there  pagans  in  their 
country?  ” “ We  call  them  Christians,”  said  the  man, 

“ to  distinguish  them  from  the  Irish  English,  who  are  worse 
than  pagans,  who  are  Jews  and  heretics.”  I made  no 
answer,  but  passed  on  to  the  room  which  had  been  prepared 
for  me,  and  from  which,  the  door  being  ajar,  I heard  the 
following  conversation  passing  between  the  innkeeper  and 
his  wife: — 

Innkeeper . — Muger,  it  appears  to  me  that  we  have 
evil  guests  in  the  house. 

Wife. — You  mean  the  last  comers,  the  Caballero  and 
his  servant.  Yes,  I never  saw  worse  countenances  in  my 
life. 

Innkeeper . — I do  not  like  the  servant,  and  still  less 
the  master.  He  has  neither  formality  nor  politeness: 
he  tells  me  that  he  is  not  French,  and  when  I spoke  to 
him  of  the  Irish  Christians,  he  did  not  seem  to  belong 
to  them.  I more  than  suspect  that  he  is  a heretic  or  a 
Jew  at  least. 

Wife. — Perhaps  they  are  both.  Maria  Santissima! 
what  shall  we  do  to  purify  the  house  when  they  are  gone? 

Innkeeper. — O,  as  for  that  matter,  we  must  of  course 
charge  it  in  the  cuenta. 

I slept  soundly,  and  rather  late  in  the  morning  arose 
and  breakfasted,  and  paid  the  bill,  in  which,  by  its  extrava- 
gance, I found  the  purification  had  not  been  forgotten. 
The  travelling  merchants  had  departed  at  daybreak.  We 
now  led  forth  the  horses,  and  mounted;  there  were  several 
people  at  the  door  staring  at  us.  “ What  is  the  meaning 
of  this?  ” said  I to  Antonio. 

“ It  is  whispered  that  we  are  no  Christians,”  said 
Antonio;  “they  have  come  to  cross  themselves  at  our 
departure.” 

In  effect,  the  moment  that  we  rode  forward  a dozen 
hands  at  least  were  busied  in  this  evil-averting  ceremony. 
Antonio  instantly  turned  and  crossed  himself  in  the  Greek 


196  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

fashion,  — much  more  complex  and  difficult  than  the 
Catholic. 

“ Mirad  que  Santiguo  ! que  Santiguo  de  los  demonios  ! ”* 
exclaimed  many  voices,  whilst  for  fear  of  consequences 
we  hastened  away. 

The  day  was  exceedingly  hot,  and  we  wended  our  way 
slowly  along  the  plains  of  Old  Castile.  With  all  that 
pertains  to  Spain,  vastness  and  sublimity  are  associated: 
grand  are  its  mountains,  and  no  less  grand  are  its  plains, 
which  seem  of  boundless  extent,  but  which  are  not  tame 
unbroken  flats,  like  the  steppes  of  Russia.  Rough  and 
uneven  ground  is  continually  occurring:  here  a deep 

ravine  and  gully  worn  by  the  wintry  torrent;  yonder  an 
eminence  not  unfrequently  craggy  and  savage,  at  whose 
top  appears  the  lone  solitary  village.  There  is  little  that 
is  blithesome  and  cheerful,  but  much  that  is  melancholy. 
A few  solitary  rustics  are  occasionally  seen  toiling  in  the 
fields — fields  without  limit  or  boundary,  where  the  green 
oak,  the  elm  or  the  ash  are  unknown;  where  only  the  sad 
and  desolate  pine  displays  its  pyramid-like  form,  and  where 
no  grass  is  to  be  found.  And  who  are  the  travellers  of  these 
districts?  For  the  most  part  arrieros,  with  their  long 
trains  of  mules  hung  with  monotonous  tinkling  bells. 
Behold  them  with  their  brown  faces,  brown  dresses,  and 
broad  slouched  hats; — the  arrieros,  the  true  lords  of  the 
roads  of  Spain,  and  to  whom  more  respect  is  paid  in  these 
dusty  ways  than  to  dukes  and  condes; — the  arrieros, 
sullen,  proud,  and  rarely  courteous,  whose  deep  voices 
may  be  sometimes  heard  at  the  distance  of  a mile,  either 
cheering  the  sluggish  animals,  or  shortening  the  dreary 
way  with  savage  and  dissonant  songs. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  Medina  del  Campo, 
formerly  one  of  the  principal  cities  of  Spain,  though  at 
present  an  inconsiderable  place.  Immense  ruins  surround 
it  in  every  direction,  attesting  the  former  grandeur  of  this 
“ city  of  the  plain.,,  The  great  square  or  market-place 
is  a remarkable  spot,  surrounded  by  a heavy  massive 
piazza,  over  which  rise  black  buildings  of  great  antiquity. 
We  found  the  town  crowded  with  people  awaiting  the 
fair,  which  was  to  be  held  in  a day  or  two.  We  experienced 
some  difficulty  in  obtaining  admission  into  the  posada, 
which  was  chiefly  occupied  by  Catalans  from  Valladolid. 
These  people  not  only  brought  with  them  their  merchandize 
but  their  wives  and  children.  Some  of  them  appeared  to 
be  people  of  the  worst  description:  there  was  one  in 

particular,  a burly  savage-looking  fellow,  of  about  forty, 
whose  conduct  was  atrocious;  he  sat  with  his  wife,  or 
* “ See  the  crossing  ! see  what  devilish  crossing  ! ” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


197 


perhaps  concunine,  at  the  door  of  a room  which  opened 
upon  the  court:  he  was  continually  venting  horrible 

and  obscene  oaths,  both  in  Spanish  and  Catalan.  The 
woman  was  remarkably  handsome,  but  robust  and  seemingly 
as  savage  as  himself;  her  conversation  likewise  was  as 
frightful  as  his  own.  Both  seemed  to  be  under  the  influence 
of  an  incomprehensible  fury.  At  last,  upon  some  observa- 
tion from  the  woman,  he  started  up,  and  drawing  a long 
knife  from  his  girdle,  stabbed  at  her  naked  bosom;  she, 
however,  interposed  the  palm  of  her  hand,  which  was 
much  cut.  He  stood  for  a moment  viewing  the  blood 
trickling  upon  the  ground,  whilst  she  held  up  her  wounded 
hand,  then  with  an  astounding  oath  he  hurried  up  the  court 
to  the  Plaza.  I went  up  to  the  woman  and  said,  “ What 
is  the  cause  of  this?  I hope  the  ruffian  has  not  seriously 
injured  you.”  She  turned  her  countenance  upon  me 
with  the  glance  of  a demon,  and  at  last  with  a sneer  of 
contempt  exclaimed,  “ Carals,  que  es  eso  ? Cannot  a 
Catalan  gentleman  be  conversing  with  his  lady  upon  their 
own  private  affairs  without  being  interrupted  by  you?  ” 
She  then  bound  up  her  hand  with  a handkerchief,  and 
going  into  the  room  brought  a small  table  to  the  door, 
on  which  she  placed  several  things  as  if  for  the  evening’s 
repast,  and  then  sat  down  on  a stool:  presently  returned 
the  Catalan,  and  without  a word  took  his  seat  on  the 
threshold;  then,  as  if  nothing  had  occurred,  the  extra- 
ordinary couple  commenced  eating  and  drinking,  inter- 
larding their  meal  with  oaths  and  jests. 

We  spent  the  night  at  Medina,  and  departing  early 
next  morning,  passed  through  much  the  same  country 
as  the  day  before,  until  about  noon  we  reached  a small 
venta,  distant  half  a league  from  the  Duero ; here  we  reposed 
ourselves  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  then  remounting, 
crossed  the  river  by  a handsome  stone  bridge,  and  directed 
our  course  to  Valladolid.  The  banks  of  the  Duero  in  this 
place  have  much  beauty:  they  abound  with  trees  and 

brushwood,  amongst  which,  as  we  passed  along,  various 
birds  were  singing  melodiously.  A delicious  coolness 
proceeded  from  the  water,  which  in  some  parts  brawled 
over  stones  or  rippled  fleetly  over  white  sand,  and  in  others 
glided  softly  over  blue  pools  of  considerable  depth.  By 
the  side  of  one  of  these  last,  sat  a woman  of  about  thirty, 
neatly  dressed  as  a peasant;  she  was  gazing  upon  the 
water  into  which  she  occasionally  flung  flowers  and  twigs 
of  trees.  I stopped  for  a moment  to  ask  a question; 
she,  however,  neither  looked  up  nor  answered,  but  continued 
gazing  at  the  water  as  if  lost  to  consciousness  of  all  beside. 
“ Who  is  that  woman?  ” said  I to  a shepherd,  whom  I met 


198 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  moment  after.  " She  is  mad,  la  pobrecita”  said  he; 
“ she  lost  her  child  about  a month  ago  in  that  pool,  and 
she  has  been  mad  ever  since;  they  are  going  to  send  her 
to  Valladolid,  to  the  Casa  de  los  Locos.  There  are  many 
who  perish  every  year  in  the  eddies  of  the  Duero;  it  is  a 
bad  river;  vaya  usted  con  la  Virgen,  Caballero  ” So  I rode 
on  through  the  pinares,  or  thin  scanty  pine  forests,  which 
skirt  the  way  to  Valladolid  in  this  direction. 

Valladolid  is  seated  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  valley, 
or  rather  hollow  which  seems  to  have  been  scooped  by 
some  mighty  convulsion  out  of  the  plain  ground  of  Castile. 
The  eminences  which  appear  in  the  neighbourhood  are 
not  properly  high  grounds,  but  are  rather  the  sides  of  this 
hollow.  They  are  jagged  and  precipitous,  and  exhibit 
a strange  and  uncouth  appearance.  Volcanic  force  seems 
at  some  distant  period  to  have  been  busy  in  these  districts. 
Valladolid  abounds  with  convents,  at  present  deserted, 
which  afford  some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  architecture 
in  Spain.  The  principal  church,  though  rather  ancient, 
is  unfinished:  it  was  intended  to  be  a building  of  vast 
size,  but  the  means  of  the  founders  were  insufficient  to 
carry  out  their  plan:  it  is  built  of  rough  granite.  Valla- 
dolid is  a manufacturing  town,  but  the  commerce  is  chiefly 
in  the  hands  of  the  Catalans,  of  whom  there  is  a colony 
of  nearly  three  hundred  established  here.  It  possesses  a 
beautiful  alameda,  or  public  walk,  through  which  flows 
the  river  Escurva.  The  population  is  said  to  amount  to 
sixty  thousand  souls. 

We  put  up  at  the  Posada  de  las  Diligencias,  a very 
magnificent  edifice:  this  posada,  however,  we  were  glad 
to  quit  on  the  second  day  after  our  arrival,  the  accommoda- 
tion being  of  the  most  wretched  description,  and  the 
incivility  of  the  people  great;  the  master  of  the  house, 
an  immense  tall  fellow,  with  huge  moustaches  and  an 
assumed  military  air,  being  far  too  high  a cavalier  to 
attend  to  the  wants  of  his  guests,  with  whom,  it  is  true, 
he  did  not  appear  to  be  overburdened,  as  I saw  no  one  but 
Antonio  and  myself.  He  was  a leading  man  amongst  the 
national  guards  of  Valladolid,  and  delighted  in  parading 
about  the  city  on  a clumsy  steed,  which  he  kept  in  a 
subterranean  stable. 

Our  next  quarters  were  at  the  Trojan  Horse,  an  ancient 
posada,  kept  by  a native  of  the  Basque  provinces,  who 
at  least  was  not  above  his  business.  We  found  everything 
in  confusion  at  Valladolid,  a visit  from  the  factious  being 
speedily  expected.  All  the  gates  were  blockaded,  and 
various  forts  had  been  built  to  cover  the  approaches  to 
the  city.  Shortly  after  our  departure  the  Carlists  actually 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


199 


did  arrive,  under  the  command  of  the  Biscayan  chief, 
Zariategui.  They  experienced  no  opposition;  the 
staunchest  nationals  retiring  to  the  principal  fort,  which 
they,  however,  speedily  surrendered,  not  a gun  being  fired 
throughout  the  affair.  As  for  my  friend  the  hero  of  the 
inn,  on  the  first  rumour  of  the  approach  of  the  enemy, 
he  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  off,  and  was  never  subse- 
quently heard  of.  On  our  return  to  Valladolid,  we  found 
the  inn  in  other  and  better  hands,  those  of  a Frenchman 
from  Bayonne,  from  whom  we  received  as  much  civility 
as  we  had  experienced  rudeness  from  his  predecessor. 

In  a few  days  I formed  the  acquaintance  of  the  book- 
seller of  the  place,  a kind-hearted  simple  man,  who 
willingly  undertook  the  charge  of  vending  the  Testaments 
which  I brought. 

I found  literature  of  every  description  at  the  lowest 
ebb  at  Valladolid.  My  newly-acquired  friend  merely 
carried  on  bookselling  in  connexion  with  other  business; 
it  being,  as  he  assured  me,  in  itself  quite  insufficient  to 
afford  him  a livelihood.  During  the  week,  however,  that 
I continued  in  this  city,  a considerable  number  of  copies 
were  disposed  of,  and  a fair  prospect  opened  that  many 
more  would  be  demanded.  To  call  attention  to  my  books, 
I had  recourse  to  the  same  plan  which  I had  adopted  at 
Salamanca,  the  affixing  of  advertisements  to  the  walls. 
Before  leaving  the  city,  I gave  orders  that  these  should  be 
renewed  every  week;  from  pursuing  which  course  I ex- 
pected that  much  manifold  good  would  accrue,  as  the 
people  would  have  continual  opportunities  of  learning  that 
a book  which  contains  the  living  word  was  in  existence, 
and  within  their  reach,  which  might  induce  them  to  secure 
it  and  consult  it  even  unto  salvation. 

In  Valladolid  I found  both  an  English  and  Scotch 
College.  From  my  obliging  friends,  the  Irish  at  Sala- 
manca, I bore  a letter  of  introduction  to  the  rector  of  the 
latter.  I found  this  college  an  old  gloomy  edifice,  situated 
in  a retired  street.  The  rector  was  dressed  in  the  habili- 
ments of  a Spanish  ecclesiastic,  a character  which  he  was 
evidently  ambitious  of  assuming.  There  was  something 
dry  and  cold  in  his  manner,  and  nothing  of  that  generous 
warmth  and  eager  hospitality  which  had  so  captivated 
me  in  the  fine  Irish  rector  of  Salamanca;  he  was,  however, 
civil  and  polite,  and  offered  to  show  me  the  curiosities  of 
the  place.  He  evidently  knew  who  I was,  and  on  that 
account  was,  perhaps,  more  reserved  than  he  otherwise 
would  have  been:  not  a word  passed  between  us  on 

religious  matters,  which  we  seemed  to  avoid  by  common 


200 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


consent.  Under  the  auspices  of  this  gentleman,  I visited 
the  college  of  the  Philippine  Missions,  which  stands  beyond 
the  gate  of  the  city,  where  I was  introduced  to  the  superior, 
a fine  old  man  of  seventy,  very  stout,  in  the  habiliments 
of  a friar.  There  was  an  air  of  placid  benignity  on  his 
countenance  which  highly  interested  me:  his  words  were 
few  and  simple,  and  he  seemed  to  have  bid  adieu  to  all 
worldly  passions.  One  little  weakness  was,  however, 
still  clinging  to  him. 

Myself. — This  is  a noble  edifice  in  which  you  dwell, 
Father;  I should  think  it  would  contain  at  least  two 
hundred  students. 

Rector. — More,  my  son;  it  is  intended  for  more  hundreds 
than  it  now  contains  single  individuals. 

Myself. — I observe  that  some  rude  attempts  have 
been  made  to  fortify  it;  the  walls  are  pierced  with  loop- 
holes in  every  direction. 

Rector. — The  nationals  of  Valladolid  visited  us  a few 
days  ago,  and  committed  much  useless  damage;  they 
were  rather  rude,  and  threatened  me  with  their  clubs: 
poor  men,  poor  men. 

Myself. — I suppose  that  even  these  missions,  which 
are  certainly  intended  for  a noble  end,  experience  the 
sad  effects  of  the  present  convulsed  state  of  Spain? 

Rector. — But  too  true:  we  at  present  receive  no  assist- 
ance from  the  government,  and  are  left  to  the  Lord  and 
ourselves. 

Myself. — How  many  aspirants  for  the  mission  are  you 
at  present  instructing? 

Rector. — Not  one,  my  son;  not  one.  They  are  all 
fled.  The  flock  is  scattered  and  the  shepherd  left  alone. 

Myself. — Your  reverence  has  doubtless  taken  an  active 
part  in  the  mission  abroad? 

Rector. — I was  forty  years  in  the  Philippines,  my  son, 
forty  years  amongst  the  Indians.  Ah  me!  how  I love 
those  Indians  of  the  Philippines. 

Myself. — Can  your  reverence  discourse  in  the  language 
of  the  Indians? 

Rector. — No,  my  son.  We  teach  the  Indians  Castilian. 
There  is  no  better  language,  I believe.  We  teach  them 
Castilian,  and  the  adoration  of  the  Virgin.  What  more 
need  they  know? 

Myself. — And  what  did  your  reverence  think  of  the 
Philippines  as  a country? 

Rector. — I was  forty  years  in  the  Philippines,  but  I 
know  little  of  the  country.  I do  not  like  the  country.  I 
love  the  Indians.  The  country  is  not  very  bad;  it  is, 
however,  not  worth  Castile. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


201 


Myself. — Is  your  reverence  a Castilian? 

Rector. — I am  an  Old  Castilian,  my  son. 

From  the  house  of  the  Philippine  Missions  my  friend 
conducted,  me  to  the  English  college;  this  establishment 
seemed  in  every  respect  to  be  on  a more  magnificent  scale 
than  its  Scottish  sister.  In  the  latter  there  were  few  pupils, 
scarcely  six  or  seven,  I believe,  whilst  in  the  English  seminary 
I was  informed  that  between  thirty  and  forty  were  re- 
ceiving their  education.  It  is  a beautiful  building,  with 
a small  but  splendid  church,  and  a handsome  library. 
The  situation  is  light  and  airy:  it  stands  by  itself  in  an 
unfrequented  part  of  the  city,  and,  with  genuine  English 
exclusiveness,  is  surrounded  by  a high  wall,  which  encloses 
a delicious  garden.  This  is  by  far  the  most  remarkable 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  Peninsula,  and  I believe 
the  most  prosperous.  From  the  cursory  view  which  I 
enjoyed  of  its  interior,  I of  course  cannot  be  expected 
to  know  much  of  its  economy.  I could  not,  however, 
fail  to  be  struck  with  the  order,  neatness,  and  system 
which  pervaded  it.  There  was,  however,  an  air  of  severe 
monastic  discipline,  though  I am  far  from  asserting  that 
such  actually  existed.  We  were  attended  throughout  by 
the  sub-rector,  the  principal  being  absent.  Of  all  the 
curiosities  of  this  college,  the  most  remarkable  is  the  picture 
gallery,  which  contains  neither  more  nor  less  than  the 
portraits  of  a variety  of  scholars  of  this  house  who  eventu- 
ally suffered  martyrdom  in  England,  in  the  exercise  of  their 
vocation  in  the  angry  times  of  the  Sixth  Edward  and 
fierce  Elizabeth.  Yes,  in  this  very  house  were  many  of 
those  pale  smiling  half-foreign  priests  educated,  who, 
like  stealthy  grimalkins,  traversed  green  England  in  all 
directions;  crept  into  old  halls  beneath  umbrageous 
rookeries,  fanning  the  dying  embers  of  Popery,  with  no 
other  hope  nor  perhaps  wish  than  to  perish  disembowelled 
by  the  bloody  hands  of  the  executioner,  amongst  the  yells 
of  a rabble  as  bigoted  as  themselves:  priests  like  Bedingfield 
and  Garnet,  and  many  others  who  have  left  a name  in 
English  story.  Doubtless  many  a history,  only  the 
more  wonderful  for  being  true,  could  be  wrought  out  of 
the  archives  of  the  English  Popish  seminary  at  Valladolid. 

There  was  no  lack  of  guests  at  the  Trojan  Horse,  where 
we  had  taken  up  our  abode  at  Valladolid.  Amongst  others 
who  arrived  during  my  sojourn  was  a robust  buxom  dame, 
exceedingly  well  dressed  in  black  silk,  with  a costly 
mantilla.  She  was  accompanied  by  a very  handsome, 
but  sullen  and  malicious-looking  urchin  of  about  fifteen, 
who  appeared  to  be  her  son.  She  came  from  Toro,  a place 
about  a day's  journey  from  Valladolid,  and  celebrated 


202 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


for  its  wine.  One  night,  as  we  were  seated  in  the  court  of 
the  inn  enjoying  the  fresco,  the  following  conversation 
ensued  between  us. 

Lady . — Vaya,  vaya,  what  a tiresome  place  is  Valla- 
dolid! How  different  from  Toro! 

Myself . — I should  have  thought  that  it  is  at  least  as 
agreeable  as  Toro,  which  is  not  a third  part  so  large. 

Lady . — As  agreeable  as  Toro!  Vaya,  vaya!  Were 
you  ever  in  the  prison  of  Toro,  Sir  Cavalier? 

Myself. — I have  never  had  that  honour;  the  prison 
is  generally  the  last  place  which  I think  of  visiting. 

Lady. — See  the  difference  of  tastes:  I have  been  to  see 
the  prison  of  Valladolid,  and  it  seems  as  tiresome  as  the 
town. 

Myself. — Of  course,  if  grief  and  tediousness  exist  any- 
where, you  will  find  them  in  the  prison. 

Lady. — Not  in  that  of  Toro. 

Myself. — What  does  that  of  Toro  possess  to  distinguish 
it  from  all  others? 

Lady. — What  does  it  possess?  Vaya!  Am  I not  the 
carcelera?  Is  not  my  husband  the  alcayde?  Is  not  that 
son  of  mine  a child  of  the  prison? 

Myself. — I beg  your  pardon,  I was  not  aware  of  that 
circumstance;  it  of  course  makes  much  difference. 

Lady. — I believe  you.  I am  a daughter  of  that  prison: 
my  father  was  alcayde,  and  my  son  might  hope  to  be  so, 
were  he  not  a fool. 

Myself. — His  countenance  then  belies  him  strangely: 
I should  be  loth  to  purchase  that  youngster  for  a fool. 

Gaoler  ess. — You  would  have  a fine  bargain  if  you  did; 
he  has  more  picardias  than  any  Calabozero  in  Toro.  What 
I mean  is,  that  he  does  not  take  to  the  prison  as  he  ought 
to  do,  considering  what  his  fathers  were  before  him.  He 
has  too  much  pride — too  many  fancies;  and  he  has  at 
length  persuaded  me  to  bring  him  to  Valladolid,  where 
I have  arranged  with  a merchant  who  lives  in  the  Plaza 
to  take  him  on  trial.  I wish  he  may  not  find  his  way  to 
the  prison:  if  he  do,  he  will  find  that  being  a prisoner 
is  a very  different  thing  from  being  a son  of  the  prison. 

Myself. — As  there  is  so  much  merriment  at  Toro,  you 
of  course  attend  to  the  comfort  of  your  prisoners. 

Gaoler  ess. — Yes,  we  are  very  kind  to  them;  I mean 
to  those  who  are  Caballeros;  but  as  for  those  with  vermin 
and  miseria,  what  can  we  do?  It  is  a merry  prison  that  of 
Toro;  we  allow  as  much  wine  to  enter  as  the  prisoners 
can  purchase  and  pay  duty  for.  This  of  Valladolid  is  not 
half  so  gay:  there  is  no  prison  like  Toro.  I learned  there 
to  play  on  the  guitar.  An  Andalusian  cavalier  taught 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


203 


me  to  touch  the  guitar  and  to  sing  k la  Gitana.  Poor 
fellow,  he  was  my  first  novio.  Juanito,  bring  me  the  guitar, 
that  I may  play  this  gentleman  a tune  of  Andalusia. 

The  carcelera  had  a fine  voice,  and  touched  the  favourite 
instrument  of  the  Spaniards  in  a truly  masterly  manner. 
I remained  listening  to  her  performance  for  nearly  an 
hour,  when  I retired  to  my  apartment  and  my  repose. 
I believe  that  she  continued  playing  and  singing  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  night,  for  as  I occasionally  awoke 
I could  still  hear  her;  and,  even  in  my  slumbers,  the 
strings  were  ringing  in  my  ears. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Dnenas — Children  of  Egypt — Jockeyism — The  Baggage  Pony — The  Fall 
— Palencia — Carlist  Priests — The  Lookout — Priestly  Sincerity — Leon 
— Antonio  alarmed — Heat  and  Dust. 

After  a sojourn  of  about  ten  days  at  Valladolid,  we  directed 
our  course  towards  Leon.  We  arrived  about  noon  at 
Duenas,  a town  at  the  distance  of  six  short  leagues  from 
Valladolid.  It  is  in  every  respect  a singular  place:  it 

stands  on  a rising  ground,  and  directly  above  it  towers 
a steep  conical  mountain  of  calcareous  earth,  crowned  by 
a ruined  castle.  Around  Duenas  are  seen  a multitude  of 
caves  scooped  in  the  high  banks  and  secured  with  strong 
doors.  These  are  cellars,  in  which  is  deposited  the  wine, 
of  which  abundance  is  grown  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
which  is  chiefly  sold  to  the  Navarrese  and  the  mountaineers 
of  Santander,  who  arrive  in  cars  drawn  by  oxen,  and  convey 
it  away  in  large  quantities.  We  put  up  at  a mean  posada 
in  the  suburb  for  the  purpose  of  refreshing  our  horses. 
Several  cavalry  soldiers  were  quartered  there,  who  instantly 
came  forth,  and  began,  with  the  eyes  of  connoisseurs, 
to  inspect  my  Andalusian  entero.  “ A capital  horse  that 
would  be  for  our  troop,”  said  the  corporal;  “ what  a chest 
he  has.  By  what  right  do  you  travel  with  that  horse, 
Sehor,  when  so  many  are  wanted  for  the  Queen's  service? 
He  belongs  to  the  requiso.”  “ I travel  with  him  by  right 
of  purchase,  and  being  an  Englishman,”  I replied.  “ Oh, 
your  worship  is  an  Englishman,”  answered  the  corporal; 
“ that,  indeed,  alters  the  matter;  the  English  in  Spain 
are  allowed  to  do  what  they  please  with  their  own,  which 
is  more  than  the  Spaniards  are.  Cavalier,  I have  seen 
your  countrymen  in  the  Basque  provinces;  Vaya,  what 


204 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


riders!  what  horses!  They  do  not  fight  badly  either. 
But  their  chief  skill  is  in  riding:  I have  seen  them  dash 
over  barrancos  to  get  at  the  factious,  who  thought  them- 
selves quite  secure,  and  then  they  would  fall  upon  them 
on  a sudden  and  kill  them  to  a man.  In  truth,  your 
worship,  this  is  a fine  horse,  I must  look  at  his 
teeth.” 

I looked  at  the  corporal — his  nose  and  eyes  were  in 
the  horse’s  mouth:  the  rest  of  the  party,  who  might  amount 
to  six  or  seven,  were  not  less  busily  engaged.  One  was 
examining  his  forefeet,  another  his  hind;  one  fellow  was 
pulling  at  his  tail  with  all  his  might,  while  another  pinched 
the  windpipe,  for  the  purpose  of  discovering  whether  the 
animal  was  at  all  touched  there.  At  last  perceiving  that 
the  corporal  was  about  to  remove  the  saddle  that  he  might 
examine  the  back  of  the  animal,  I exclaimed: — 

“ Stay,  ye  chabes  of  Egypt,  ye  forget  that  ye  are 
hundunares,  and  are  no  longer  paruguing  grastes  in  the 
chardy.” 

The  corporal  at  these  words  turned  his  face  full  upon 
me,  and  so  did  all  the  rest.  Yes,  sure  enough,  there  were 
the  countenances  of  Egypt,  and  the  fixed  filmy  stare  of 
eye.  We  continued  looking  at  each  other  for  a minute 
at  least,  when  the  corporal,  a villainous-looking  fellow,  at 
last  said,  in  the  richest  gypsy* whine  imaginable,  “the 
v erray  know  us,  the  poor  Galore!  And  he  an  Englishman! 
Bullati!  I should  not  have  thought  that  there  was  e’er 
a Busno  would  know  us  in  these  parts,  where  Gitanos  are 
never  seen.  Yes,  your  worship  is  right;  we  are  all  here 
of  the  blood  of  the  Calore ; we  are  from  Melegrana  (Granada), 
your  worship ; they  took  us  from  thence  and  sent  us  to  the 
wars.  Your  worship  is  right,  the  sight  of  that  horse  made 
us  believe  we  were  at  home  again  in  the  mercado  of  Granada; 
he  is  a countryman  of  ours,  a real  Andalou.  Por  dios, 
your  worship,  sell  us  that  horse;  we  are  poor  Calor6,  but 
we  can  buy  him.” 

“You  forget  that  you  are  soldiers,”  said  I.  “How 
should  you  buy  my  horse?  ” 

“We  are  soldiers,  your  worship,”  said  the  corporal, 
“but  we  are  still  Calore;  we  buy  and  sell  bestis;  the 
captain  of  our  troop  is  in  league  with  us.  We  have  been 
to  the  wars,  but  not  to  fight;  we  left  that  to  the  Busne. 
We  have  kept  together,  and  like  true  Calore,  have  stood 
back  to  back.  We  have  made  money  in  the  wars,  your 
worship.  No  tenga  usted  cuidao  (be  under  no  apprehension). 
We  can  buy  your  horse.” 

Here  he  pulled  out  a purse,  which  contained  at  least 
ten  ounces  of  gold. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  205 

"If  I were  willing  to  sell,”  I replied,  " what  would  you 
give  me  for  that  horse?  ” 

" Then  your  worship  wishes  to  sell  your  horse — that 
alters  the  matter.  We  will  give  ten  dollars  for  your  wor- 
ship’s horse.  He  is  good  for  nothing.” 

" How  is  this?  ” said  I.  " You  this  moment  told  me 
he  was  a fine  horse — an  Andalusian,  and  a countryman 
of  yours.” 

" No,  Senor!  we  did  not  say  that  he  was  an  Andalou. 
We  said  he  was  an  Estremou,  and  the  worst  of  his 
kind.  He  is  eighteen  years  old,  your  worship,  short- 
winded  and  galled.” 

" I do  not  wish  to  sell  my  horse,”  said  I;  " quite 
the  contrary;  I had  rather  buy  than  sell.” 

" Your  worship  does  not  wish  to  sell  your  horse,”  said 
the  Gypsy.  " Stay,  your  worship,  we  will  give  sixty 
dollars  for  your  worship’s  horse.” 

" I would  not  sell  him  for  two  hundred  and  sixty. 
Meclis!  Meclis!  say  no  more.  I know  your  Gypsy  tricks. 
I will  have  no  dealings  with  you.” 

" Did  I not  hear  your  worship  say  that  you  wished  to 
buy  a horse?  ” said  the  Gypsy. 

" I do  not  want  to  buy  a horse,”  said  I;  " if  I need  any 
thing,  it  is  a pony  to  carry  our  baggage;  but  it  is  getting 
late.  Antonio,  pay  the  reckoning.” 

" Stay,  your  worship,  do  not  be  in  a hurry,”  said  the 
Gypsy:  " I have  got  the  very  pony  which  will  suit  you.” 
Without  waiting  for  my  answer,  he  hurried  into  the 
stable,  from  whence  he  presently  returned,  leading  an 
animal  by  a halter.  It  was  a pony  of  about  thirteen 
hands  high,  of  a dark  red  colour;  it  was  very  much  galled 
all  over,  the  marks  of  ropes  and  thongs  being  visible  on 
its  hide.  The  figure,  however,  was  good,  and  there  was 
an  extraordinary  brightness  in  its  eye. 

" There,  your  worship,”  said  the  Gypsy;  " there  is  the 
best  pony  in  all  Spain.” 

" What  do  you  mean  by  showing  me  this  wretched 
creature?  ” said  I. 

" This  wretched  creature,”  said  the  Gypsy,  " is  a 
better  horse  than  your  Andalou  I ” 

" Perhaps  you  would  not  exchange,”  said  I,  smiling. 

" Senor,  what  I say  is,  that  he  shall  run  with  your 
Andalou,  and  beat  him!  ” 

" He  looks  feeble,”  said  I;  " his  work  is  well  nigh  done.” 
" Feeble  as  he  is,  Senor,  you  could  not  manage  him; 
no,  nor  any  Englishman  in  Spain.” 

I looked  at  the  creature  again,  and  was  still  more 
struck  with  its  figure.  I was  in  need  of  a pony  to  relieve 


206 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


occasionally  the  horse  of  Antonio  in  carrying  the  baggage 
which  we  had  brought  from  Madrid,  and  though  the  con- 
dition of  this  was  wretched,  I thought  that  by  kind  treat- 
ment I might  possibly  soon  bring  him  round. 

“ May  I mount  this  animal?  ” I demanded. 

“ He  is  a baggage  pony,  Senor,  and  is  ill  to  mount. 

' He  will  suffer  none  but  myself  to  mount  him,  who  am 
his  master.  When  he  once  commences  running,  nothing 
will  stop  him  but  the  sea.  He  springs  over  hills  and 
mountains,  and  leaves  them  behind  in  a moment.  If 
you  will  mount  him,  Senor,  suffer  me  to  fetch  a bridle, 
for  you  can  never  hold  him  in  with  the  halter.” 

“ This  is  nonsense,”  said  I.  “ You  pretend  that  he  is 
spirited  in  order  to  enhance  the  price.  I tell  you  his  work 
is  done.” 

I took  the  halter  in  my  hand  and  mounted.  I was 
no  sooner  on  his  back  than  the  creature,  who  had  before 
stood  stone  still,  without  displaying  the  slightest  inclina- 
tion to  move,  and  who  in  fact  gave  no  farther  indication 
of  existence  than  occasionally  rolling  his  eyes  and  pricking 
up  an  ear,  sprang  forward  like  a racehorse,  at  a most 
desperate  gallop.  I had  expected  that  he  might  kick  or 
fling  himself  down  on  the  ground,  in  order  to  get  rid  of  his 
burden,  but  for  this  escapade  I was  quite  unprepared.  I 
had  no  difficulty,  however,  in  keeping  on  his  back,  having 
been  accustomed  from  my  childhood  to  ride  without  a 
saddle.  To  stop  him,  however,  baffled  all  my  endeavours, 
and  I almost  began  to  pay  credit  to  the  words  of  the  Gypsy, 
who  had  said  that  he  would  run  on  until  he  reached  the  sea. 
I had,  however,  a strong  arm,  and  I tugged  at  the  halter 
until  I compelled  him  to  turn  slightly  his  neck,  which 
from  its  stiffness  might  almost  have  been  of  wood;  he, 
however,  did  not  abate  his  speed  for  a moment.  On  the 
left  side  of  the  road  down  which  he  was  dashing  was  a deep 
trench,  just  where  the  road  took  a turn  towards  the  right, 
and  over  this  he  sprang  in  a sideward  direction;  the  halter 
broke  with  the  effort,  the  pony  shot  forward  like  an  arrow, 
whilst  I fell  back  into  the  dust. 

“ Senor!  ” said  the  Gypsy,  coming  up  with  the  most 
serious  countenance  in  the  world,  “ I told  you  not  to  mount 
that  animal  unless  well  bridled  and  bitted.  He  is  a baggage 
pony,  and  will  suffer  none  to  mount  his  back,  with  the 
exception  of  myself  who  feed  him.”  (Here  he  whistled, 
and  the  animal,  who  was  scurring  over  the  held,  and 
occasionally  kicking  up  his  heels,  instantly  returned  with 
a gentle  neigh.)  “ Now,  your  worship,  see  how  gentle  he 
is.  He  is  a capital  baggage  pony,  and  will  carry  all  you 
have  over  the  hills  of  Galicia.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


207 


“ What  do  you  ask  for  him?  ” said  I. 

“ Seiior,  as  your  worship  is  an  Englishman,  and  a good 
ginete,  and,  moreover,  understands  the  ways  of  the  Galore, 
and  their  tricks  and  their  language  also,  I will  sell  him 
to  you  a bargain.  I will  take  two  hundred  and  sixty 
dollars  for  him  and  no  less.” 

“ That  is  a large  sum,”  said  I. 

“ No,  Senor,  not  at  all,  considering  that  he  is  a baggage 
pony,  and  belongs  to  the  troop,  and  is  not  mine  to  sell.” 

Two  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  Palencia,  a fine  old 
town,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Carrion,  and  famous  for 
its  trade  in  wool.  We  put  up  at  the  best  posada  which 
the  place  afforded,  and  I forthwith  proceeded  to  visit 
one  of  the  principal  merchants  of  the  town,  to  whom  I 
was  recommended  by  my  banker  in  Madrid.  I was  told, 
however,  that  he  was  taking  his  siesta.  “ Then  I had 
better  take  my  own,”  said  I,  and  returned  to  the  posada. 
In  the  evening  I went  again,  when  I saw  him.  He  was  a 
short  bulky  man  about  thirty,  and  received  me  at  first 
with  some  degree  of  bluntness;  his  manner,  however, 
presently  became  more  kind,  and  at  last  he  scarcely 
appeared  to  know  how  to  show  me  sufficient  civility.  His 
brother  had  just  arrived  from  Santander,  and  to  him  he 
introduced  me.  This  last  was  a highly-intelligent  person, 
and  had  passed  many  years  of  his  life  in  England.  They 
both  insisted  upon  showing  me  the  town,  and,  indeed, 
led  me  all  over  it,  and  about  the  neighbourhood.  I par- 
ticularly admired  the  cathedral,  a light,  elegant,  but 
ancient  Gothic  edifice.  Whilst  we  walked  about  the  aisles, 
the  evening  sun,  pouring  its  mellow  rays  through  the 
arched  windows,  illumined  some  beautiful  paintings  of 
Murillo,  with  which  the  sacred  edifice  is  adorned.  From 
the  church  my  friends  conducted  me  to  a fulling  mill  in 
the  neighbourhood,  by  a picturesque  walk.  There  was  no 
lack  either  of  trees  or  water,  and  I remarked,  that  the 
environs  of  Palencia  were  amongst  the  most  pleasant 
places  that  I had  ever  seen. 

Tired  at  last  with  rambling,  we  repaired  to  a coffee- 
house, where  they  regaled  me  with  chocolate  and  sweet- 
meats. Such  was  their  hospitality;  and  of  hospitality 
of  this  simple  and  agreeable  kind  there  is  much  in  Spain. 

On  the  next  day  we  pursued  our  journey,  a dreary 
one,  for  the  most  part,  over  bleak  and  barren  plains,  inter- 
spersed with  silent  and  cheerless  towns  and  villages,  which 
stood  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  leagues  from  each 
other.  About  midday  we  obtained  a dim  and  distant 
view  of  an  immense  range  of  mountains,  which  are  in  fact 
those  which  bound  Castile  on  the  north.  The  day,  however. 


208 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


became  dim  and  obscure,  and  we  speedily  lost  sight  of  them. 
A hollow  wind  now  arose  and  blew  over  these  desolate 
plains  with  violence,  wafting  clouds  of  dust  into  our  faces; 
the  rays  of  the  sun  were  few,  and  those  red  and  angry. 
I was  tired  of  my  journey,  and  when  about  four  we  reached 

, a large  village,  half  way  between  Palencia  and  Leon, 

I declared  my  intention  of  stopping  for  the  night.  I 
scarcely  ever  saw  a more  desolate  place  than  this  same 

town  or  village  of  . The  houses  were  for  the  most 

part  large,  but  the  walls  were  of  mud,  like  those  of  barns. 
We  saw  no  person  in  the  long  winding  street  to  direct 
us  to  the  venta,  or  posada,  till  at  last,  at  the  farther  end 
of  the  place,  we  descried  two  black  figures  standing  at  a 
door,  of  whom,  on  making  inquiry,  we  learned  that  the 
door  at  which  they  stood  was  that  of  the  house  we  were 
in  quest  of.  There  was  something  strange  in  the  appearance 
of  these  two  beings,  who  seemed  the  genii  of  the  place. 
One  was  a small  slim  man,  about  fifty,  with  sharp,  ill- 
natured  features.  He  was  dressed  in  coarse  black  worsted 
stockings,  black  breeches,  and  an  ample  black  coat  with 
long  trailing  skirts.  I should  at  once  have  taken  him  for 
an  ecclesiastic,  but  for  his  hat,  which  had  nothing  clerical 
about  it,  being  a pinched  diminutive  beaver.  His  com- 
panion was  of  low  stature,  and  a much  younger  man. 
He  was  dressed  in  similar  fashion,  save  that  he  wore  a 
dark  blue  cloak.  Both  carried  walking  sticks  in  their 
hands,  and  kept  hovering  about  the  door,  now  within  and 
now  without,  occasionally  looking  up  the  road,  as  if  they 
expected  some  one. 

“ Trust  me,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio  to  me,  in  French, 
“ those  two  fellows  are  Carlist  priests,  and  are  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  the  Pretender.  Les  imbeciles  ! ” 

We  conducted  our  horses  to  the  stable,  to  which  we 
were  shown  by  the  woman  of  the  house.  “ Who  are  those 
men?  ” said  I to  her. 

“ The  eldest  is  head  curate  to  our  pueblo,”  said  she; 
“the  other  is  brother  to  my  husband.  Pobrecito!  he 
was  a friar  in  our  convent  before  it  was  shut  up  and  the 
brethren  driven  forth.” 

We  returned  to  the  door.  " I suppose,  gentlemen,” 
said  the  curate,  “ that  you  are  Catalans.  Do  you  bring 
any  news  from  that  kingdom?  ” 

“ Why  do  you  suppose  we  are  Catalans?  ” I demanded. 

“ Because  I heard  you  this  moment  conversing  in  that 
language.” 

“ I bring  no  news  from  Catalonia,”  said  I.  “ I believe, 
however,  that  the  greater  part  of  that  principality  is  in 
the  hands  of  the  Carlists.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


209 


“ Ahem,  brother  Pedro ! This  gentleman  says  that  the 
greater  part  of  Catalonia  is  in  the  hands  of  the  royalists. 
Pray,  sir,  where  may  Don  Carlos  be  at  present  with  his 
army?  ” 

“ He  may  be  coming  down  the  road  this  moment, ” 
said  I,  “ for  what  I know;  ” and,  stepping  out,  I looked 
up  the  way. 

The  two  figures  were  at  my  side  in  a moment;  Antonio 
followed,  and  we  all  four  looked  intently  up  the  road. 

“ Do  you  see  anything?  ” said  I at  last  to  Antonio. 

“ Non , mon  maitre  .” 

“ Do  you  see  anything,  sir?  ” said  I to  the  curate. 

“ I see  nothing,”  said  the  curate,  stretching  out  his 
neck. 

“ I see  nothing,”  said  Pedro,  the  ex-friar;  “ I see 
nothing  but  the  dust,  which  is  becoming  every  moment 
more  blinding.” 

“ I shall  go  in,  then,”  said  I.  “ Indeed,  it  is  scarcely 
prudent  to  be  standing  here  looking  out  for  the  Pretender: 
should  the  nationals  of  the  town  hear  of  it,  they  might 
perhaps  shoot  us.” 

“ Ahem,”  said  the  curate,  following  me;  “ there  are  no 
nationals  in  this  place:  I would  fain  see  what  inhabitant 
would  dare  become  a national.  When  the  inhabitants 
of  this  place  were  ordered  to  take  up  arms  as  nationals, 
they  refused  to  a man,  and  on  that  account  we  had  to 
pay  a mulct;  therefore,  friend,  you  may  speak  out  if 
you  have  anything  to  communicate;  we  are  all  of  your 
opinion  here.” 

“ I am  of  no  opinion  at  all,”  said  I,  “ save  that  I want 
my  supper.  I am  neither  for  Rey  nor  Roque.  You  say 
that  I am  a Catalan,  and  you  know  that  Catalans  think 
only  of  their  own  affairs.” 

In  the  evening  I strolled  by  myself  about  the  village, 
which  I found  still  more  forlorn  and  melancholy  than  it 
at  first  appeared;  perhaps,  however,  it  had  been  a place 
of  consequence  in  its  time.  In  one  corner  of  it  I found  the 
ruins  of  a large  clumsy  castle,  chiefly  built  of  flint  stones: 
into  these  ruins  I attempted  to  penetrate,  but  the  entrance 
was  secured  by  a gate.  From  the  castle  I found  my  way 
to  the  convent,  a sad  desolate  place,  formerly  the  residence 
of  mendicant  brothers  of  the  order  of  St.  Francis.  I 
was  about  to  return  to  the  inn,  when  I heard  a loud  buzz 
of  voices,  and,  following  the  sound,  presently  reached  a 
kind  of  meadow,  where,  upon  a small  knoll,  sat  a priest 
in  full  canonicals,  reading  in  a loud  voice  a newspaper, 
while  around  him,  either  erect  or  seated  on  the  grass,  were 
assembled  about  fifty  vecinos,  for  the  most  part  dressed 


210 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


in  long  cloaks,  amongst  whom  I discovered  my  two  friends 
the  curate  and  friar.  A fine  knot  of  Garlist  quid-nuncs, 
said  I to  myself,  and  turned  away  to  another  part  of  the 
meadow,  where  the  cattle  of  the  village  were  grazing. 
The  curate,  on  observing  me,  detached  himself  instantly 
from  the  group,  and  followed.  “ I am  told  you  want  a 
pony,”  said  he;  “ there  now  is  mine  feeding  amongst 
those  horses,  the  best  in  all  the  kingdom  of  Leon.”  He 
then  began  with  all  the  volubility  of  a chalan  to  descant 
on  the  points  of  the  animal.  Presently  the  friar  joined 
us,  who,  observing  his  opportunity,  pulled  me  by  the 
sleeve  and  whispered,  “ Have  nothing  to  do  with  the 
curate,  master,  he  is  the  greatest  thief  in  the  neighbour- 
hood; if  you  want  a pony,  my  brother  has  a much  better, 
which  he  will  dispose  of  cheaper.”  “ I shall  wait  till  I 
arrive  at  Leon,”  I exclaimed,  and  walked  away,  musing 
on  priestly  friendship  and  sincerity. 

From  to  Leon,  a distance  of  eight  leagues,  the 

country  rapidly  improved:  we  passed  over  several  small 
streams,  and  occasionally  found  ourselves  amongst  meadows 
in  which  grass  was  growing  in  the  richest  luxuriance. 
The  sun  shone  out  brightly,  and  I hailed  his  reap- 
pearance with  joy,  though  the  heat  of  his  beams  was 
oppressive.  On  arriving  within  two  leagues  of  Leon, 
we  passed  numerous  cars  and  waggons,  and  bands  of 
people  with  horses  and  mules,  all  hastening  to  the  cele- 
brated fair  which  is  held  in  the  city  on  St.  John's  or  Mid- 
summer day,  and  which  took  place  within  three  days  after 
our  arrival.  This  fair,  though  principally  intended  for 
the  sale  of  horses,  is  frequented  by  merchants  from  many 
parts  of  Spain,  who  attend  with  goods  of  various  kinds, 
and  amongst  them  I remarked  many  of  the  Catalans 
whom  I had  previously  seen  at  Medina  and  Valladolid. 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  Leon,  which  is  an  old 
gloomy  town,  with  the  exception  of  its  cathedral,  in  many 
respects  a counterpart  of  the  church  of  Palencia,  exhibiting 
the  same  light  and  elegant  architecture,  but,  unlike  its 
beautiful  sister,  unadorned  with  splendid  paintings.  The 
situation  of  Leon  is  highly  pleasant,  in  the  midst  of  a 
blooming  country,  abounding  with  trees,  and  watered  by 
many  streams,  which  have  their  source  in  the  mighty 
mountains  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  is,  however,  by  no 
means  a healthy  place,  especially  in  summer,  when  the 
heats  raise  noxious  exhalations  from  the  waters,  generating 
many  kinds  of  disorders,  especially  fevers. 

I had  scarcely  been  at  Leon  three  days  when  I was 
seized  with  a fever,  against  which  I thought  the  strength 
even  of  my  constitution  would  have  yielded,  for  it  wore 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


211 


me  almost  to  a skeleton,  and  when  it  departed,  at  the 
end  of  about  a week,  left  me  in  such  a deplorable  state 
of  weakness  that  I was  scarcely  able  to  make  the  slightest 
exertion.  I had,  however,  previously  persuaded  a book- 
seller to  undertake  the  charge  of  vending  the  Testaments, 
and  had  published  my  advertisements  as  usual,  though 
without  very  sanguine  hope  of  success,  as  Leon  is  a place 
where  the  inhabitants,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are 
furious  Garlists,  and  ignorant  and  blinded  followers  of  the 
old  papal  church.  It  is,  moreover,  a bishop's  see,  which 
was  once  enjoyed  by  the  prime  counsellor  of  Don  Carlos, 
whose  fierce  and  bigoted  spirit  still  seems  to  pervade  the 
place.  Scarcely  had  the  advertisements  appeared,  when 
the  clergy  were  in  motion.  They  went  from  house  to  house, 
banning  and  cursing,  and  denouncing  misery  to  whom- 
soever should  either  purchase  or  read  “ the  accursed  books," 
which  had  been  sent  into  the  country  by  heretics  for  the 
purpose  of  perverting  the  innocent  minds  of  the  popula- 
tion. They  did  more;  they  commenced  a process  against 
the  bookseller  in  the  ecclesiastical  court.  Fortunately 
this  court  is  not  at  present  in  the  possession  of  much 
authority;  and  the  bookseller,  a bold  and  determined 
man,  set  them  at  defiance,  and  went  so  far  as  to  affix  an 
advertisement  to  the  gate  of  the  very  cathedral.  Not- 
withstanding the  cry  raised  against  the  book,  several  copies 
were  sold  at  Leon:  two  were  purchased  by  ex-friars,  and 
the  same  number  by  parochial  priests  from  neighbouring 
villages.  I believe  the  whole  number  disposed  of  during 
my  stay  amounted  to  fifteen;  so  that  my  visit  to  this 
dark  corner  was  not  altogether  in  vain,  as  the  seed  of  the 
gospel  has  been  sown,  though  sparingly.  But  the  palpable 
darkness  which  envelops  Leon  is  truly  lamentable,  and 
the  ignorance  of  the  people  is  so  great,  that  printed  charms 
and  incantations  against  Satan  and  his  host,  and  against 
every  kind  of  misfortune,  are  publicly  sold  in  the  shops, 
and  are  in  great  demand.  Such  are  the  results  of  Popery, 
a delusion  which,  more  than  any  other,  has  tended  to 
debase  and  brutalize  the  human  mind. 

I had  scarcely  risen  from  my  bed  where  the  fever  had 
cast  me,  when  I found  that  Antonio  had  become  alarmed. 
He  informed  me  that  he  had  seen  several  soldiers  in  the 
uniform  of  Don  Carlos  lurking  at  the  door  of  the  posada, 
and  that  they  had  been  making  inquiries  concerning  me. 

It  was  indeed  a singular  fact  connected  with  Leon, 
that  upwards  of  fifty  of  these  fellows,  who  had  on  various 
accounts  left  the  ranks  of  the  Pretender,  were  walking 
about  the  streets  dressed  in  his  livery,  and  with  all  the 
confidence  which  the  certainty  of  protection  from  the 


212 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


local  authorities  could  afford  them  should  any  one  be 
disposed  to  interrupt  them. 

I learned  moreover  from  Antonio,  that  the  person  in 
whose  house  we  were  living  was  a notorious  “ alcahuete,” 
or  spy  to  the  robbers  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  that 
unless  we  took  our  departure  speedily  and  unexpectedly, 
we  should  to  a certainty  be  plundered  on  the  road.  I 
did  not  pay  much  attention  to  these  hints,  but  my  desire 
to  quit  Leon  was  great,  as  I was  convinced  that  as  long 
as  I continued  there  I should  be  unable  to  regain  my 
health  and  vigour. 

Accordingly,  at  three  in  the  morning,  we  departed  for 
Galicia.  We  had  scarcely  proceeded  half  a league  when 
we  were  overtaken  by  a thunder-storm  of  tremendous 
violence.  We  were  at  that  time  in  the  midst  of  a wood 
which  extends  to  some  distance  in  the  direction  in  which 
we  were  going.  The  trees  were  bowed  almost  to  the 
ground  by  the  wind  or  torn  up  by  the  roots,  whilst  the 
earth  was  ploughed  up  by  the  lightning,  which  burst  all 
around  and  nearly  blinded  us.  The  spirited  Andalusian 
on  which  I rode  became  furious,  and  bounded  into  the  air 
as  if  possessed.  Owing  to  my  state  of  weakness,  I had 
the  greatest  difficulty  in  maintaining  my  seat,  and  avoiding 
a fall  which  might  have  been  fatal.  A tremendous  dis- 
charge of  rain  followed  the  storm,  which  swelled  the  brooks 
and  streams  and  flooded  the  surrounding  country,  causing 
much  damage  amongst  the  corn.  After  riding  about  five 
leagues,  we  began  to  enter  the  mountainous  district  which 
surrounds  Astorga : the  heat  now  became  almost  suffocating ; 
swarms  of  flies  began  to  make  their  appearance,  and  settling 
down  upon  the  horses,  stung  them  almost  to  madness, 
whilst  the  road  was  very  flinty  and  trying.  It  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  we  reached  Astorga,  covered  with  mud 
and  dust,  our  tongues  cleaving  to  our  palates  with  thirst. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Astorga — The  Inn — The  Maragatos — The  Habits  of  the  Maragatos 
— The  Statue. 

We  went  to  a posada  in  the  suburbs,  the  only  one,  indeed, 
which  the  place  afforded.  The  courtyard  was  full  of 
arrieros  and  carriers,  brawling  loudly;  the  master  of  the 
house  was  fighting  with  two  of  his  customers,  and  universal 
confusion  reigned  around.  As  I dismounted  I received 
the  contents  of  a wine-glass  in  my  face,  of  which  greeting, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


213 


as  it  was  probably  intended  for  another,  I took  no  notice. 
Antonio,  however,  was  not  so  patient,  for  on  being  struck 
with  a cudgel,  he  instantly  returned  the  salute  with  his 
whip,  scarifying  the  countenance  of  a carman.  In  my 
endeavours  to  separate  these  two  antagonists,  my  horse 
broke  loose,  and  rushing  amongst  the  promiscuous  crowd, 
overturned  several  individuals  and  committed  no  little 
damage.  It  was  a long  time  before  peace  was  restored: 
at  last  we  were  shown  to  a tolerably  decent  chamber. 
We  had,  however,  no  sooner  taken  possession  of  it,  than 
the  waggon  from  Madrid  arrived  on  its  way  to  Coruna, 
filled  with  dusty  travellers,  consisting  of  women,  children, 
invalid  officers  and  the  like.  We  were  now  forthwith 
dislodged,  and  our  baggage  flung  into  the  yard.  On  our 
complaining  of  this  treatment,  we  were  told  that  we  were 
two  vagabonds  whom  nobody  knew;  who  had  come 
without  an  arriero,  and  had  already  set  the  whole  house 
in  confusion.  As  a great  favour,  however,  we  were  at 
length  permitted  to  take  up  our  abode  in  a ruinous  building 
down  the  yard,  adjoining  the  stable,  and  filled  with  rats 
and  vermin.  Here  there  was  an  old  bed  with  a tester, 
and  with  this  wretched  accommodation  we  were  glad 
to  content  ourselves,  for  I could  proceed  no  farther, 
and  was  burnt  with  fever.  The  heat  of  the  place  was 
intolerable,  and  I sat  on  the  staircase  with  my  head 
between  my  hands,  gasping  for  breath:  soon  appeared 
Antonio  with  vinegar  and  water,  which  I drank  and  felt 
relieved. 

We  continued  in  this  suburb  three  days,  during  the 
greatest  part  of  which  time  I was  stretched  on  the  tester 
bed.  I once  or  twice  contrived  to  make  my  way  into  the 
town,  but  found  no  bookseller,  nor  any  person  willing 
to  undertake  the  charge  of  disposing  of  my  Testaments. 
The  people  were  brutal,  stupid,  and  uncivil,  and  I returned 
to  my  tester  bed  fatigued  and  dispirited.  Here  I lay 
listening  from  time  to  time  to  the  sweet  chimes  which 
rang  from  the  clock  of  the  old  cathedral.  The  master  of 
the  house  never  came  near  me,  nor  indeed,  once  inquired 
about  me.  Beneath  the  care  of  Antonio,  however,  I 
speedily  waxed  stronger.  “ Mon  maitre  ” said  he  to  me 
one  evening,  “ I see  you  are  better;  let  us  quit  this  bad 
town  and  worse  posada  to-morrow  morning.  Allons , mon 
maitre!  II  est  temps  de  nous  mettre  en  chemin  pour  Lugo 
et  Galice” 

Before  proceeding,  however,  to  narrate  what  befell  us 
in  this  journey  to  Lugo  and  Galicia,  it  will  perhaps  not  be 
amiss  to  say  a few  words  concerning  Astorga  and  its 
vicinity.  It  is  a walled  town,  containing  about  five  or  six 


214 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

thousand  inhabitants,  with  a cathedral  and  college,  which 
last  is,  however,  at  present  deserted.  It  is  situated  on  the 
confines,  and  may  be  called  the  capital  of  a tract  of  land 
called  the  country  of  the  Maragatos,  which  occupies  about 
three  square  leagues,  and  has  for  its  north-western  boundary 
a mountain  called  Telleno,  the  loftiest  of  a chain  of  hills 
which  have  their  origin  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Minho, 
and  are  connected  with  the  immense  range  which  consti- 
tutes the  frontier  of  the  Asturias  and  Guipuscoa. 

The  land  is  ungrateful  and  barren,  and  niggardly  repays 
the  toil  of  the  cultivator,  being  for  the  most  part  rocky, 
with  a slight  sprinkling  of  red  brick  earth. 

The  Maragatos  are  perhaps  the  most  singular  caste  to 
be  found  amongst  the  chequered  population  of  Spain. 
They  have  their  own  peculiar  customs  and  dress,  and 
never  intermarry  with  the  Spaniards.  Their  name  is  a 
clue  to  their  origin,  as  it  signifies,  “ Moorish  Goths,”  and 
at  the  present  day  their  garb  differs  but  little  from  that 
of  the  Moors  of  Barbary,  as  it  consists  of  a long  tight 
jacket,  secured  at  the  waist  by  a broad  girdle,  loose  short 
trousers  which  terminate  at  the  knee,  and  boots  and  gaiters. 
Their  heads  are  shaven,  a slight  fringe  of  hair  being  only 
left  at  the  lower  part.  If  they  wore  the  turban  or  barret, 
they  could  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the  Moors  in 
dress,  but  in  lieu  thereof  they  wear  the  sombrero,  or  broad 
slouching  hat  of  Spain.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  they 
are  a remnant  of  those  Goths  who  sided  with  the  Moors 
on  their  invasion  of  Spain,  and  who  adopted  their  religion, 
customs,  and  manner  of  dress,  which,  with  the  exception 
of  the  first,  are  still  to  a considerable  degree  retained  by 
them.  It  is,  however,  evident  that  their  blood  has  at  no 
time  mingled  with  that  of  the  wild  children  of  the  desert, 
for  scarcely  amongst  the  hills  of  Norway  would  you  find 
figures  and  faces  more  essentially  Gothic  than  those  of 
the  Maragatos.  They  are  strong  athletic  men,  but  loutish 
and  heavy,  and  their  features,  though  for  the  most  part 
well  formed,  are  vacant  and  devoid  of  expression.  They 
are  slow  and  plain  of  speech,  and  those  eloquent  and 
imaginative  sallies  so  common  in  the  conversation  of  other 
Spaniards,  seldom  or  never  escape  them;  they  have, 
moreover,  a coarse  thick  pronunciation,  and  when  you  hear 
them  speak,  you  almost  imagine  that  it  is  some  German 
or  English  peasant  attempting  to  express  himself  in  the 
language  of  the  Peninsula.  They  are  constitutionally 
phlegmatic,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  arouse  their  anger; 
but  they  are  dangerous  and  desperate  when  once  incensed; 
and  a person  who  knew  them  well,  told  me  that  he  would 
rather  face  ten  Yalencians,  people  infamous  for  their 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


215 


ferocity  and  blood-thirstiness,  than  confront  one  angry 
Maragato,  sluggish  and  stupid  though  he  be  on  other 
occasions. 

The  men  scarcely  ever  occupy  themselves  in  husbandry, 
which  they  abandon  to  the  women,  who  plough  the  flinty 
fields  and  gather  in  the  scanty  harvests.  Their  husbands 
and  sons  are  far  differently  employed:  for  they  are  a 

nation  of  arrieros  or  carriers,  and  almost  esteem  it  a disgrace 
to  follow  any  other  profession.  On  every  road  of  Spain, 
particularly  those  north  of  the  mountains  which  divide 
the  two  Gastiles,  may  be  seen  gangs  of  fives  and  sixes  of 
these  people  lolling  or  sleeping  beneath  the  broiling  sun, 
on  gigantic  and  heavily  laden  mutes  and  mules.  In  a 
word,  almost  the  entire  commerce  of  nearly  one  half  of 
Spain  passes  through  the  hands  of  the  Maragatos,  whose 
fidelity  to  their  trust  is  such,  that  no  one  accustomed  to 
employ  them  would  hesitate  to  confide  to  them  the  trans- 
port of  a ton  of  treasure  from  the  sea  of  Biscay  to  Madrid; 
knowing  well  that  it  would  not  be  their  fault  were  it  not 
delivered  safe  and  undiminished,  even  of  a grain,  and 
that  bold  must  be  the  thieves  who  would  seek  to  wrest 
it  from  the  far  feared  Maragatos,  who  would  cling  to  it 
whilst  they  could  stand,  and  would  cover  it  with  their 
bodies  when  they  fell  in  the  act  of  loading  or  discharging 
their  long  carbines. 

But  they  are  far  from  being  disinterested,  and  if  they 
are  the  most  trustworthy  of  all  the  arrieros  of  Spain, 
they  in  general  demand  for  the  transport  of  articles  a 
sum  at  least  double  to  what  others  of  the  trade  would 
esteem  a reasonable  recompense:  by  this  means  they 

accumulate  large  sums  of  money,  notwithstanding  that 
they  indulge  themselves  in  far  superior  fare  to  that  which 
contents  in  general  the  parsimonious  Spaniard; — another 
argument  in  favour  of  their  pure  Gothic  descent;  for 
the  Maragatos,  like  true  men  of  the  north,  delight  in 
swilling  liquors  and  battening  upon  gross  and  luscious 
meats,  which  help  to  swell  out  their  tall  and  goodly 
figures.  Many  of  them  have  died  possessed  of  consider- 
able riches,  part  of  which  they  have  not  unfrequently 
bequeathed  to  the  erection  or  embellishment  of  religious 
houses. 

On  the  east  end  of  the  cathedral  of  Astorga,  which 
towers  over  the  lofty  and  precipitous  wall,  a colossal 
figure  of  lead  may  be  seen  on  the  roof.  It  is  the  statue  of 
a Maragato  carrier  who  endowed  the  cathedral  with  a large 
sum.  He  is  in  his  national  dress,  but  his  head  is  averted 
from  the  lands  of  his  fathers,  and  whilst  he  waves  in  his 
hand  a species  of  flag,  he  seems  to  be  summoning  his  race 


216 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

from  their  unfruitful  region  to  other  climes,  where  a richer 
field  is  open  to  their  industry  and  enterprise. 

I spoke  to  several  of  these  men  respecting  the  all- 
important  subject  of  religion;  but  I found  “ their  hearts 
gross,  and  their  ears  dull  of  hearing,  and  their  eyes  closed.” 
There  was  one  in  particular  to  whom  I showed  the  New 
Testament,  and  whom  I addressed  for  a considerable  time. 
He  listened  or  seemed  to  listen  patiently,  taking  occasion- 
ally copious  draughts  from  an  immense  jug  of  whitish 
wine  which  stood  between  his  knees.  After  I had  concluded 
’he  said,  “ To-morrow  I set  out  for  Lugo,  whither,  I am 
told,  yourself  are  going.  If  you  wish  to  send  your  chest, 
I have  no  objection  to  take  it  at  so  much  (naming  an 
extravagant  price).  As  for  what  you  have  told  me,  I 
understand  little  of  it,  and  believe  not  a word  of  it;  but 
in  respect  to  the  books  which  you  have  shown  me,  I will 
take  three  or  four.  I shall  not  read  them,  it  is  true,  but 
I have  no  doubt  that  I can  sell  them  at  a higher  price 
than  you  demand.” 

So  much  for  the  Maragatos. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

Departure  from  Astorga — The  Venta — The  By-path — Narrow  Escape — 
The  Cup  of  Water — Sun  and  Shade — Bembibre — Convent  of  the  Rocks 
— Sunset — Cacabelos — Midnight  Adventure — Villafranca. 

It  was  four  o’clock  of  a beautiful  morning  when  we  sallied 
from  Astorga,  or  rather  from  its  suburbs,  in  which  we 
had  been  lodged:  we  directed  our  course  to  the  north, 
in  the  direction  of  Galicia.  Leaving  the  mountain  Telleno 
on  our  left,  we  passed  along  the  eastern  skirts  of  the  land 
of  the  Maragatos,  over  broken  uneven  ground,  enlivened 
here  and  there  by  small  green  valleys  and  runnels  of  water. 
Several  of  the  Maragatan  women,  mounted  on  donkeys, 
passed  us  on  their  way  to  Astorga,  whither  they  were 
carrying  vegetables.  We  saw  others  in  the  fields  handling 
their  rude  ploughs,  drawn  by  lean  oxen.  We  likewise 
passed  through  a small  village,  in  which  we,  however, 
saw  no  living  soul.  Near  this  village  we  entered  the  high 
road  which  leads  direct  from  Madrid  to  Coruna,  and  at 
last,  having  travelled  near  four  leagues,  we  came  to  a 
species  of  pass,  formed  on  our  left  by  a huge  lumpish  hill 
(one  of  those  which  descend  from  the  great  mountain 
Telleno),  and  on  our  right  by  one  of  much  less  altitude. 
In  the  middle  of  this  pass,  which  was  of  considerable 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


217 


breadth,  a noble  view  opened  itself  to  us.  Before  us, 
at  the  distance  of  about  a league  and  a half,  rose  the  mighty 
frontier  chain,  of  which  I have  spoken  before;  its  blue 
sides  and  broken  and  picturesque  peaks  still  wearing 
a thin  veil  of  the  morning  mist,  which  the  fierce  rays  of 
the  sun  were  fast  dispelling.  It  seemed  an  enormous 
barrier,  threatening  to  oppose  our  farther  progress,  and 
it  reminded  me  of  the  fables  respecting  the  children  of 
Magog,  who  are  said  to  reside  in  remotest  Tartary,  behind 
a gigantic  wall  of  rocks,  which  can  only  be  passed  by  a 
gate  of  steel  a thousand  cubits  in  height. 

We  shortly  after  arrived  at  Manzanal,  a village  consist- 
ing of  wretched  huts,  and  exhibiting  every  sign  of  poverty 
and  misery.  It  was  now  time  to  refresh  ourselves  and 
horses,  and  we  accordingly  put  up  at  a venta,  the  last 
habitation  in  the  village,  where,  though  we  found  barley 
for  the  animals,  we  had  much  difficulty  in  procuring  any- 
thing for  ourselves.  I was  at  length  fortunate  enough 
to  obtain  a large  jug  of  milk,  for  there  were  plenty  of  cows 
in  the  neighbourhood,  feeding  in  a picturesque  valley 
which  we  had  passed  by,  where  was  abundance  of  grass, 
and  trees,  and  a rivulet  broken  by  tiny  cascades.  The  jug 
might  contain  about  half  a gallon,  but  I emptied  it  in  a 
'few  minutes,  for  the  thirst  of  fever  was  still  burning  within 
me,  though  I was  destitute  of  appetite.  The  venta  had 
something  the  appearance  of  a German  baiting-house. 
It  consisted  of  an  immense  stable,  from  which  was  parti- 
tioned a kind  of  kitchen  and  a place  where  the  family  slept. 
The  master,  a robust  young  man,  lolled  on  a large  solid 
stone  bench,  which  stood  within  the  door.  He  was  very 
inquisitive  respecting  news,  but  I could  afford  him  none; 
whereupon  he  became  communicative,  and  gave  me  the 
history  of  his  life,  the  sum  of  which  was,  that  he  had  been 
a courier  in  the  Basque  provinces,  but  about  a year  since 
had  been  dispatched  to  this  village,  where  he  kept  the 
post-house.  He  was  an  enthusiastic  liberal,  and  spoke 
in  bitter  terms  of  the  surrounding  population,  who,  he 
said,  were  all  Carlists  and  friends  of  the  friars.  I paid  little 
attention  to  his  discourse,  for  I was  looking  at  a Maragato 
lad  of  about  fourteen,  who  served  in  the  house  as  a kind 
of  ostler.  I asked  the  master  if  we  were  still  in  the  land 
of  the  Maragatos;  but  he  told  me  that  we  had  left  it  behind 
nearly  a league,  and  that  the  lad  was  an  orphan  and  was 
serving  until  he  could  rake  up  a sufficient  capital  to  become 
an  arriero.  I addressed  several  questions  to  the  boy, 
but  the  urchin  looked  sullenly  in  my  face,  and  either 
answered  by  monosyllables  or  was  doggedly  silent.  I 
asked  him  if  he  could  read.  “ Yes,”  said  he,  “ as 


218  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

much  as  that  brute  of  yours  who  is  tearing  down  the 
manger.” 

Quitting  Manzanal,  we  continued  our  course.  We  soon 
arrived  at  the  verge  of  a deep  valley  amongst  mountains, 
not  those  of  the  chain  which  we  had  seen  before  us,  and 
which  we  now  left  to  the  right,  but  those  of  the  Telleno 
range,  just  before  they  unite  with  that  chain.  Bound 
the  sides  of  this  valley,  which  exhibited  something  of  the 
appearance  of  a horse-shoe,  wound  the  road  in  a circuitous 
manner;  just  before  us,  however,  and  diverging  from  the 
road,  lay  a footpath  which  seemed,  by  a gradual  descent, 
to  lead  across  the  valley,  and  to  rejoin  the  road  on  the 
other  side,  at  the  distance  of  about  a furlong;  and  into 
this  we  struck  in  order  to  avoid  the  circuit. 

We  had  not  gone  far  before  we  met  two  Galicians,  on 
their  way  to  cut  the  harvests  of  Castile.  One  of  them 
shouted,  “Cavalier,  turn  back:  in  a moment  you  will  be 
amongst  precipices,  where  your  horses  will  break  their 
necks,  for  we  ourselves  could  scarcely  climb  them  on 
foot.”  The  other  cried,  “ Cavalier,  proceed,  but  be  careful, 
and  your  horses,  if  sure-footed,  will  run  no  great  danger: 
my  comrade  is  a fool.”  A violent  dispute  instantly  ensued 
between  the  two  mountaineers,  each  supporting  his  opinion 
with  loud  oaths  and  curses;  but  without  stopping  to  see 
the  result,  I passed  on,  but  the  path  was  now  filled  with 
stones  and  huge  slaty  rocks,  on  which  my  horse  was  con- 
tinually slipping.  I likewise  heard  the  sound  of  water 
in  a deep  gorge,  which  I had  hitherto  not  perceived,  and 
I soon  saw  that  it  would  be  worse  than  madness  to  proceed. 
I turned  my  horse,  and  was  hastening  to  regain  the  path 
which  I had  left,  when  Antonio,  my  faithful  Greek,  pointed 
out  to  me  a meadow  by  which,  he  said,  we  might  regain 
the  high  road  much  lower  down  than  if  we  returned  on  our 
steps.  The  meadow  was  briliant  with  short  green  grass, 
and  in  the  middle  there  was  a small  rivulet  of  water.  I 
spurred  my  horse  on,  expecting  to  be  in  the  high  road  in 
a moment;  the  horse,  however,  snorted  and  stared  wildly, 
and  was  evidently  unwilling  to  cross  the  seemingly  inviting 
spot.  I thought  that  the  scent  of  a wolf,  or  some  other 
wild  animal  might  have  disturbed  him,  but  was  .soon  un- 
deceived by  his  sinking  up  to  the  knees  in  a bog.  The 
animal  uttered  a shrill  sharp  neigh,  and  exhibited  every 
sign  of  the  greatest  terror,  making  at  the  same  time  great 
efforts  to  extricate  himself,  and  plunging  forward,  but  every 
moment  sinking  deeper.  At  last  he  arrived  where  a 
small  vein  of  rock  showed  itself:  on  this  he  placed  his  fore 
feet,  and  with  one  tremendous  exertion  freed  himself  from 
the  deceitful  soil,  springing  over  the  rivulet  and  alighting 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


219 


on  comparatively  firm  ground,  where  he  stood  panting, 
his  heaving  sides  covered  with  a foamy  sweat.  Antonio, 
who  had  observed  the  whole  scene,  afraid  to  venture 
forward,  returned  by  the  path  by  which  we  came,  and 
shortly  afterwards  rejoined  me.  This  adventure  brought 
to  my  recollection  the  meadow  with  its  footpath  which 
tempted  Christian  from  the  straight  road  to  heaven, 
and  finally  conducted  him  to  the  dominions  of  the  giant 
Despair. 

We  now  began  to  descend  the  valley  by  a broad  and 
excellent  carretera  or  carriage  road,  which  was  cut  out 
of  the  steep  side  of  the  mountain  on  our  right.  On  our 
left  was  the  gorge,  down  which  tumbled  the  runnel  of 
water  which  I have  before  mentioned.  The  road  was 
tortuous,  and  at  every  turn  the  scene  became  more 
picturesque.  The  gorge  gradually  widened,  and  the  brook 
at  its  bottom,  fed  by  a multitude  of  springs,  increased 
in  volume  and  in  sound,  but  it  was  soon  far  beneath  us, 
pursuing  its  headlong  course  till  it  reached  level  ground, 
where  it  flowed  in  the  midst  of  a beautiful  but  confined 
prairie.  There  was  something  sylvan  and  savage  in  the 
mountains  on  the  farther  side,  clad  from  foot  to  pinnacle 
with  trees,  so  closely  growing  that  the  eye  was  unable  to 
obtain  a glimpse  of  the  hill  sides,  which  were  uneven 
with  ravines  and  gulleys,  the  haunts  of  the  wolf,  the  wild 
boar,  and  the  corso,  or  mountain-stag;  the  latter  of  which, 
as  I was  informed  by  a peasant  who  was  driving  a car  of 
oxen,  frequently  descended  to  feed  in  the  prairie,  and  were 
there  shot  for  the  sake  of  their  skins,  for  their  flesh,  being 
strong  and  disagreeable,  is  held  in  no  account. 

But  notwithstanding  the  wildness  of  these  regions, 
the  handiworks  of  man  were  visible.  The  sides  of  the  gorge, 
though  precipitous,  were  yellow  with  little  fields  of  barley, 
and  we  saw  a hamlet  and  church  down  in  the  prairie  below, 
whilst  merry  songs  ascended  to  our  ears  from  where  the 
mowers  were  toiling  with  their  scythes,  cutting  the  luxuriant 
and  abundant  grass.  I could  scarcely  believe  that  I was 
in  Spain,  in  general  so  brown,  so  arid  and  cheerless,  and  I 
almost  fancied  myself  in  Greece,  in  that  land  of  ancient 
glory,  whose  mountain  and  forest  scenery  Theocritus  has 
so  well  described. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  we  entered  a small  village, 
washed  by  the  brook,  which  had  now  swelled  almost  to 
a stream.  A more  romantic  situation  I had  never  witnessed. 
It  was  surrounded,  and  almost  overhung  by  mountains, 
and  embowered  in  trees  of  various  kinds;  waters  sounded, 
nightingales  sang,  and  the  cuckoo's  full  note  boomed 
from  the  distant  branches,  but  the  village  was  miserable. 


220 


THE ‘BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


The  huts  were  built  of  slate  stones,  of  which  the  neighbour- 
ing hills  seemed  to  be  principally  composed,  and  roofed 
with  the  same,  but  not  in  the  neat  tidy  manner  of  English 
houses,  for  the  slates  were  of  all  sizes,  and  seemed  to  be 
flung  on  in  confusion.  We  were  spent  with  heat  and  thirst, 
and  sitting  down  on  a stone  bench,  I entreated  a woman 
to  give  me  a little  water.  The  woman  said  she  would, 
but  added  that  she  expected  to  be  paid  for  it.  Antonio, 
on  hearing  this,  became  highly  incensed,  and  speaking 
Greek,  Turkish,  and  Spanish,  invoked  the  vengeance  of 
the  Panhagia  on  the'  heartless  woman,  saying,  “ If  I were 
to  offer  a Mahometan  gold  for  a draught  of  water  he  would 
dash  it  in  my  face ; and  you  are  a Catholic,  with  the  stream 
running  at  your  door.”  I told  him  to  be  silent,  and  giving 
the  woman  two  cuartos,  repeated  my  request,  whereupon 
she  took  a pitcher,  and  going  to  the  stream  filled  it  with 
water.  It  Pasted  muddy  and  disagreeable,  but  it  drowned 
the  fever  which  was  devouring  me. 

We  again  remounted  and  proceeded  on  our  way,  which, 
for  a considerable  distance,  lay  along  the  margin  of  the 
stream,  which  now  fell  in  small  cataracts,  now  brawled 
over  stones,  and  at  other  times  ran  dark  and  silent  through 
deep  pools  overhung  with  tall  willows, — pools  which  seemed 
to  abound  with  the  finny  tribe,  for  large  tpqut  frequently 
sprang  from  the  water,  catching  the  brilliant  fly  which 
skimmed  along  its  deceitful  surface.  The  scene  was 
delightful.  The  sun  was  rolling  high  in  the  firmament, 
casting  from  its  orb  of  fire  the  most  glorious  rays,  so  that 
the  atmosphere  was  flickering  with  their  splendour,  but 
their  fierceness  was  either  warded  off  by  the  shadow  of  the 
trees  or  rendered  innocuous  by  the  refreshing  coolness 
which  rose  from  the  waters,  or  by  the  gentle  breezes  which 
murmured  at  intervals  over  the  meadows,  “ fanning  the 
cheek  or  raising  the  hair  ” of  the  wanderer.  The  hills 
gradually  receded,  till  at  last  we  entered  a plain  where 
tall  grass  was  waving,  and  mighty  chestnut  trees,  in  full 
blossom,  spread  out  their  giant  and  umbrageous  boughs. 
Beneath  many  stood  cars,  the  tired  oxen  prostrate  on  the 
ground,  the  crossbar  of  the  poll  which  they  support  pressing 
heavily  on  their  heads,  whilst  their  drivers  were  either 
employed  in  cooking,  or  were  enjoying  a delicious  siesta 
in  the  grass  and  shade.  I went  up  to  one  of  the  largest  of 
these  groups  and  demanded  of  the  individuals  whether  they 
were  in  need  of  the  Testament  of  Jesus  Christ.  They  stared 
at  one  another,  and  then  at  me,  till  at  last  a young  man, 
who  was  dangling  a long  gun  in  his  hands  as  he  reclined, 
demanded  of  me  what  it  was,  at  the  same  time  inquiring 
whether  I was  a Catalan,  "for  you  speak  hoarse,' ” said  he, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


221 


“ and  are  tall  and  fair  like  that  family.”  I sat  down 
amongst  them  and  said  that  I was  no  Catalan,  but  that  I 
came  from  a spot  in  the  Western  Sea,  many  leagues  distant, 
to  sell  that  book  at  half  the  price  it  cost;  and  that  their 
souls'  welfare  depended  on  their  being  acquainted  with  it. 
I then  explained  to  them  the  nature  of  the  New  Testament, 
and  read  to  them  the  parable  of  the  Sower.  They  stared 
at  each  other  again,  but  said  that  they  were  poor,  and 
could  not  buy  books.  I rose,  mounted,  and  was  going  away, 
saying  to  them:  “ Peace  bide  with  you.”  Whereupon  the 
young  man  with  the  gun  rose,  and  saying,  “ Caspita ! 
this  is  odd,”  snatched  the  book  from  my  hand  and  gave 
me  the  price  I had  demanded. 

Perhaps  the  whole  world  might  be  searched  in  vain 
for  a spot  whose  natural  charms  could  rival  those  of  this 
plain  or  valley  of  Bembibre,  as  it  is  called,  with  its  wall 
of  mighty  mountains,  its  spreading  chestnut  trees,  and  its 
groves  of  oaks  and  willows,  which  clothe  the  banks  of  its 
stream,  a tributary  to  the  Minho.  True  it  is,  that  when  I 
passed  through  it,  the  candle  of  heaven  was  blazing  in  full 
splendour,  and  everything  lighted  by  its  rays  looked  gay, 
glad,  and  blessed.  Whether  it  would  have  fdled  me  with 
the  same  feelings  of  admiration  if  viewed  beneath  another 
sky,  I will  not  pretend  to  determine;  but  it  certainly 
possesses  advantages  which  at  no  time  could  fail  to  delight, 
for  it  exhibits  all  the  peaceful  beauties  of  an  English  land- 
scape blended  with  something  wild  and  grand,  and  I 
thought  within  myself  that  he  must  be  a restless  dissatisfied 
man,  who,  born  amongst  those  scenes,  would  wish  to  quit 
them.  At  the  time  I would  have  desired  no  better  fate 
than  that  of  a shepherd  on  the  prairies,  or  a hunter  in  the 
hills  of  Bembibre. 

Three  hours  passed  away  and  we  were  in  another 
situation.  We  had  halted  and  refreshed  ourselves  and 
horses  at  Bembibre,  a village  of  mud  and  slate,  and  which 
possessed  little  to  attract  attention : we  were  now  ascending, 
for  the  road  was  over  one  of  the  extreme  ledges  of  those 
frontier  hills  which  I have  before  so  often  mentioned; 
but  the  aspect  of  heaven  had  blackened,  clouds  were 
rolling  rapidly  from  the  west  over  the  mountains,  and  a 
cold  wind  was  moaning  dismally.  “ There  is  a storm 
travelling  through  the  air,”  said  a peasant,  whom  we  over- 
took, mounted  on  a wretched  mule;  “and  the  Asturians 
had  better  be  on  the  look-out,  for  it  is  speeding  in  their 
direction.”  He  had  scarce  spoken,  when  a light,  so  vivid 
and  dazzling  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  whole  lustre  of  the 
fiery  element  were  concentrated  in  it,  broke  around  us, 
filling  the  whole  atmosphere,  and  covering  rock,  tree  and 


222 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


mountain  with  a glare  not  to  be  described.  The  mule  of 
the  peasant  tumbled  prostrate,  while  the  horse  I rode 
reared  himself  perpendicularly,  and  turning  round,  dashed 
down  the  hill  at  headlong  speed,  which  for  some  time  it 
was  impossible  to  check.  The  lightning  was  followed 
by  a peal  almost  as  terrible,  but  distant,  for  it  sounded 
hollow  and  deep;  the  hills,  however,  caught  up  its  voice, 
seemingly  repeating  it  from  summit  to  summit,  till  it  was 
lost  in  interminable  space.  Other  flashes  and  peals  suc- 
ceeded, but  slight  in  comparison,  and  a few  drops  of  rain 
descended.  The  body  of  the  tempest  seemed  to  be  over 
another  region.  “ A hundred  families  are  weeping  where 
that  bolt  fell/'  said  the  peasant  when  I rejoined  him,  “ for 
its  blaze  has  blinded  my  mule  at  six  leagues'  distance." 
He  was  leading  the  animal  by  the  bridle,  as  its  sight  was 
evidently  affected.  “ Were  the  friars  still  in  their  nest 
above  there,"  he  continued,  “ I should  say  that  this  was 
their  doing,  for  they  are  the  cause  of  all  the  miseries  of  the 
land." 

I raised  my  eyes  in  the  direction  in  which  he  pointed. 
Half  way  up  the  mountain,  over  whose  foot  we  were  wend- 
ing, jutted  forth  a black  frightful  crag,  which  at  an  immense 
altitude  overhung  the  road,  and  seemed  to  threaten 
destruction.  It  resembled  one  of  those  ledges  of  the  rocky 
mountains  in  the  picture  of  the  Deluge,  up  to  which  the 
terrified  fugitives  have  scrambled  from  the  eager  pursuit 
of  the  savage  and  tremendous  billows,  and  from  whence 
they  gaze  down  in  horror,  whilst  above  them  rise  still 
higher  and  giddier  heights,  to  which  they  seem  unable  to 
climb.  Built  on  the  very  edge  of  this  crag,  stood  an 
edifice,  seemingly  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  religion, 
as  I could  discern  the  spire  of  a church  rearing  itself  high 
over  wall  and  roof.  “ That  is  the  house  of  the  Virgin  of 
the  Rocks,"  said  the  peasant,  “ and  it  was  lately  full  of 
friars,  but  they  have  been  thrust  out,  and  the  only  inmates 
now  are  owls  and  ravens."  I replied,  that  their  life  in 
such  a bleak  exposed  abode  could  not  have  been  very 
enviable,  as  in  winter  they  must  have  incurred  great  risk 
of  perishing  with  cold.  “ By  no  means,"  said  he;  “they 
had  the  best  of  wood  for  their  braseros  and  chimneys, 
and  the  best  of  wine  to  warm  them  at  their  meals,  which 
were  not  the  most  sparing.  Moreover,  they  had  another 
convent  down  in  the  vale  yonder,  to  which  they  could 
retire  at  their  pleasure."  On  my  asking  him  the  reason 
of  his  antipathy  to  the  friars,  he  replied,  that  he  had  been 
their  vassal,  and  that  they  had  deprived  him  every  year 
of  the  flower  of  what  he  possessed.  Discoursing  in  this 
manner,  we  reached  a village  just  below  the  convent. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


223 


where  lie  left  me,  having  first  pointed  out  to  me  a house 
of  stone,  with  an  image  over  the  door,  which,  he  said, 
once  also  belonged  to  the  canalla  (rabble)  above. 

The  sun  was  setting  fast,  and  eager  to  reach  Villafranca, 
where  I had  determined  on  resting,  and  which  was  still 
distant  three  leagues  and  a half,  I made  no  halt  at  this 
place.  The  road  was  now  down  a rapid  and  crooked 
descent,  which  terminated  in  a valley,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  was  a long  and  narrow  bridge;  beneath  it  rolled  a 
river,  descending  from  a wide  pass  between  two  mountains, 
for  the  chain  was  here  cleft,  probably  by  some  convulsion 
of  nature.  I looked  up  the  pass,  and  on  the  hills  on  both 
sides.  Far  above,  on  my  right,  but  standing  forth  bold 
and  clear,  and  catching  the  last  rays  of  the  sun,  was  the 
Convent  of  the  Precipices,  whilst  directly  over  against  it, 
on  the  farther  side  of  the  valley,  rose  the  perpendicular 
side  of  the  rival  hill,  which,  to  a considerable  extent  inter- 
cepting the  light,  flung  its  black  shadow  over  the  upper 
end  of  the  pass,  involving  it  in  mysterious  darkness. 
Emerging  from  the  centre  of  this  gloom,  with  thundering 
sound,  dashed  a river,  white  with  foam,  and  bearing  along 
with  it  huge  stones  and  branches  of  trees,  for  it  was  the 
wild  Sil  hurrying  to  the  ocean  from  its  cradle  in  the  heart 
of  the  Asturian  hills,  and  probably  swollen  by  the  recent 
rains. 

Flours  again  passed  away.  It  was  now  night,  and  we 
were  in  the  midst  of  woodlands,  feeling  our  way,  for  the 
darkness  was  so  great  that  I could  scarcely  see  the  length 
of  a yard  before  my  horse’s  head.  The  animal  seemed 
uneasy,  and  would  frequently  stop  short,  prick  up  his  ears, 
and  utter  a low  mournful  whine.  Flashes  of  sheet  lightning 
frequently  illumined  the  black  sky,  and  flung  a momentary 
glare  over  our  path.  No  sound  interrupted  the  stillness 
of  the  night,  except  the  slow  tramp  of  the  horses’  hoofs, 
and  occasionally  the  croaking  of  frogs  from  some  pool  or 
morass.  I now  bethought  me  that  I was  in  Spain,  the 
chosen  land  of  the  two  fiends,  assassination  and  plunder, 
and  how  easily  two  tired  and  unarmed  wanderers  might 
become  their  victims. 

We  at  last  cleared  the  woodlands,  and  after  proceeding 
a short  distance,  the  horse  gave  a joyous  neigh,  and  broke 
into  a smart  trot.  A barking  of  dogs  speedily  reached  my 
ears,  and  we  seemed  to  be  approaching  some  town  or 
village.  In  effect  we  were  close  to  Gacabelos,  a town  about 
five  miles  distant  from  Villafranca. 

It  was  near  eleven  at  night,  and  I reflected  that  it 
would  be  far  more  expedient  to  tarry  in  this  place  till 
the  morning  than  to  attempt  at  present  to  reach  Villa- 


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franca,  exposing  ourselves  to  all  the  horrors  of  darkness 
in  a lonely  and  unknown  road.  My  mind  was  soon  made 
up  on  this  point;  but  I reckoned  without  my  host,  for 
at  the  first  posada  which  I attempted  to  enter,  I was 
told  that  we  could  not  be  accommodated,  and  still  less 
our  horses,  as  the  stable  was  full  of  water.  At  the  second, 
and  there  were  but  two,  I was  answered  from  the  window 
by  a gruff  voice,  nearly  in  the  words  of  the  Scripture: 
“ Trouble  me  not;  the  door  is  now  shut,  and  my  children 
are  with  me  in  bed;  I cannot  arise  to  let  you  in.”  Indeed, 
we  had  no  particular  desire  to  enter,  as  it  appeared  a 
wretched  hovel,  though  the  poor  horses  pawed  piteously 
against  the  door,  and  seemed  to  crave  admittance. 

We  had  now  no  choice  but  to  resume  our  doleful  way 
to  Villafranca,  which,  we  were  told,  was  a short  league 
distant,  though  it  proved  a league  and  a half.  We  found 
it  no  easy  matter  to  quit  the  town,  for  we  were  bewildered 
amongst  its  labyrinths,  and  could  not  find  the  outlet. 
A lad  about  eighteen  was,  however,  persuaded,  by  the 
promise  of  a peseta,  to  guide  us:  whereupon  he  led  us 
by  many  turnings  to  a bridge,  which  he  told  us  to  cross, 
and  to  follow  the  road,  which  was  that  of  Villafranca; 
he  then,  having  received  his  fee,  hastened  from  us. 

We  followed  his  directions,  not,  however,  without  a 
suspicion  that  he  might  be  deceiving  us.  The  night  had 
settled  darker  down  upon  us,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to 
distinguish  any  object,  however  nigh.  The  lightning  had 
become  more  faint  and  rare.  We  heard  the  rustling  of 
trees,  and  occasionally  the  barking  of  dogs,  which  last 
sound,  however,  soon  ceased,  and  we  were  in  the  midst 
of  night  and  silence.  My  horse,  either  from  weariness, 
or  the  badness  of  the  road,  frequently  stumbled ; whereupon 
I dismounted,  and  leading  him  by  the  bridle,  soon  left 
Antonio  far  in  the  rear. 

I had  proceeded  in  this  manner  a considerable  way, 
when  a circumstance  occurred  of  a character  well  suited 
to  the  time  and  place. 

I was  again  amidst  trees  and  bushes,  when  the  horse 
stopping  short,  nearly  pulled  me  back.  I know  not  how 
it  was,  but  fear  suddenly  came  over  me,  which,  though  in 
darkness  and  in  solitude,  I had  not  felt  before.  I was 
about  to  urge  the  animal  forward,  when  I heard  a noise 
at  my  right  hand,  and  listened  attentively.  It  seemed  to 
be  that  of  a person  or  persons  forcing  their  way  through 
branches  and  brushwood.  It  soon  ceased,  and  I heard 
feet  on  the  road.  It  was  the  short  staggering  kind  of 
tread  of  people  carrying  a very  heavy  substance,  nearly 
too  much  for  their  strength,  and  I thought  I heard  the 


225 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

hurried  breathing  of  men  over-fatigued.  There  was  a 
short  pause,  during  which  I conceived  they  were  resting 
in  the  middle  of  the  road ; then  the  stamping  recommenced, 
until  it  reached  the  other  side,  when  I again  heard  a similar 
rustling  amidst  branches;  it  continued  for  some  time 
and  died  gradually  away. 

I continued  my  road,  musing  on  what  had  just  occurred, 
and  forming  conjectures  as  to  the  cause.  The  lightning 
resumed  its  flashing,  and  I saw  that  I was  approaching 
tall  black  mountains. 

This  nocturnal  journey  endured  so  long  that  I almost 
lost  all  hope  of  reaching  the  town,  and  had  closed  my  eyes 
in  a doze,  though  I still  trudged  on  mechanically,  leading 
the  horse.  Suddenly  a voice  at  a slight  distance  before 
me  roared  out,  “ Quien  vive  ? ” for  I had  at  last  found  my 
way  to  Villafranca.  It  proceeded  from  the  sentry  in  the 
suburb,  one  of  those  singular  half  soldiers  half  guerillas, 
called  Miguelets,  who  are  in  general  employed  by  the 
Spanish  government  to  clear  the  roads  of  robbers.  I 
gave  the  usual  answer,  “ Espana,”  and  went  up  to  the  place 
where  he  stood.  After  a little  conversation,  I sat  down 
on  a stone,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Antonio,  who  was  long 
in  making  his  appearance.  On  his  arrival,  I asked  if  any 
one  had  passed  him  on  the  road,  but  he  replied  that  he 
had  seen  nothing.  The  night,  or  rather  the  morning, 
was  still  very  dark,  though  a small  corner  of  the  moon 
was  occasionally  visible.  On  our  inquiring  the  way  to  the 
gate,  the  Miguelet  directed  us  down  a street  to  the  left, 
which  we  followed.  The  street  was  steep,  we  could  see  no 
gate,  and  our  progress  was  soon  stopped  by  houses  and 
wall.  We  knocked  at  the  gates  of  two  or  three  of  these 
houses  (in  the  upper  stories  of  which  lights  were  burning), 
for  the  purpose  of  being  set  right,  but  we  were  either 
disregarded  or  not  heard.  A horrid  squalling  of  cats,  from 
the  tops  of  the  houses  and  dark  corners,  saluted  our  ears, 
and  I thought  of  the  night  arrival  of  Don  Quixote  and  his 
squire  at  Toboso,  and  their  vain  search  amongst  the  deserted 
streets  for  the  palace  of  Dulcinea.  At  length  we  saw  light 
and  heard  voices  in  a cottage  at  the  other  side  of  a kind 
of  ditch.  Leading  the  horses  over,  we  called  at  the  door, 
which  was  opened  by  an  aged  man,  who  appeared  by  his 
dress  to  be  a baker,  as  indeed  he  proved,  which  accounted 
for  his  being  up  at  so  late  an  hour.  On  begging  him  to 
show  us  the  way  into  the  town,  he  led  us  up  a very  narrow 
alley  at  the  end  of  his  cottage,  saying  that  he  would  likewise 
conduct  us  to  the  posada. 

The  alley  led  directly  to  what  appeared  to  be  the  market- 
place, at  a corner  house  of  which  our  guide  stopped  and 
33— h 


226 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


knocked.  After  a long  pause  an  upper  window  was  opened, 
and  a female  voice  demanded  who  we  were.  The  old  man 
replied,  that  two  travellers  had  arrived  who  were  in  need  of 
lodging.  “ I cannot  be  disturbed  at  this  time  of  night,” 
said  the  woman;  “ they  will  be  wanting  supper,  and  there 
is  nothing  in  the  house;  they  must  go  elsewhere.”  She 
was  going  to  shut  the  window,  but  I cried  that  we  wanted 
no  supper,  but  merely  resting  place  for  ourselves  and 
horses — that  we  had  come  that  day  from  Astorga,  and  were 
dying  with  fatigue.  “ Who  is  that  speaking?  ” cried  the 
woman.  “ Surely  that  is  the  voice  of  Gil,  the  German 
clockmaker  from  Pontevedra.  Welcome,  old  companion; 
you  are  come  at  the  right  time,  for  my  own  is  out  of  order. 
I am  sorry  I have  kept  you  waiting,  but  I will  admit  you 
in  a moment.” 

The  window  was  slammed  to,  presently  a light  shone 
through  the  crevices  of  the  door,  a key  turned  in  the  lock, 
and  we  were  admitted. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

Villafranca — The  Pass — Gallegan  Simplicity — The  Frontier  Guard — The 

Horse-shoe — Gallegan  Peculiarities — A Word  on  Language — The 

Courier — Wretched  Cabins — Host  and  Guests — Andalusians. 

“ Ave  Maria,”  said  the  woman;  '‘whom  have  we  here? 
This  is  not  Gil  the  clock-maker.”  “ Whether  it  be  Gil  or 
Juan,”  said  I,  “ we  are  in  need  of  your  hospitality,  and 
can  pay  for  it.”  Our  first  care  was  to  stable  the  horses, 
who  were  much  exhausted.  We  then  went  in  search  of  some 
accommodation  for  ourselves.  The  house  was  large  and 
commodious,  and  having  tasted  a little  water,  I stretched 
myself  on  the  floor  of  one  of  the  rooms  on  some  mattresses 
which  the  woman  produced,  and  in  less  than  a minute  was 
sound  asleep. 

The  sun  was  shining  bright  when  I awoke.  I walked 
forth  into  the  market-place,  which  was  crowded  with  people, 
I looked  up,  and  could  see  the  peaks  of  tall  black  mountains 
peeping  over  the  tops  of  the  houses.  The  town  lay  in  a 
deep  hollow,  and  appeared  to  be  surrounded  by  hills  on 
almost  every  side.  “ Quel  pays  barbare ! ” said  Antonio, 
who  now  joined  me;  “ the  farther  we  go,  my  master, 
the  wilder  everything  looks.  I am  half  afraid  to  venture 
into  Galicia;  they  tell  me  that  to  get  to  it  we  must  clamber 
up  those  hills:  the  horses  will  founder.”  Leaving  the 

market-place  I ascended  the  wall  of  the  town,  and  en- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


227 


deavoured  to  discover  the  gate  by  which  we  should  have 
entered  the  preceding  night;  but  I was  not  more  successful 
in  the  bright  sunshine  than  in  the  darkness.  The  town 
in  the  direction  of  Astorga  appeared  to  be  hermetically 
sealed. 

I was  eager  to  enter  Galicia,  and  finding  that  the  horses 
were  to  a certain  extent  recovered  from  the  fatigue  of  the 
journey  of  the  preceding  day,  we  again  mounted  and 
proceeded  on  our  way.  Grossing  a bridge,  we  presently 
found  ourselves  in  a deep  gorge  amongst  the  mountains, 
down  which  rushed  an  impetuous  rivulet,  overhung  by  the 
high  road  which  leads  into  Galicia.  We  were  in  the  far- 
famed  pass  of  Fuencebadon. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  this  pass  or  the  circumjacent 
region,  which  contains  some  of  the  most  extraordinary 
scenery  in  all  Spain;  a feeble  and  imperfect  outline  is  all 
that  I can  hope  to  effect.  The  traveller  who  ascends  it 
follows  for  nearly  a league  the  course  of  the  torrent,  whose 
banks  are  in  some  places  precipitous,  and  in  others  slope 
down  to  the  waters,  and  are  covered  with  lofty  trees,  oaks, 
poplars,  and  chestnuts.  Small  villages  are  at  first  con- 
tinually seen,  with  low  walls,  and  roofs  formed  of  immense 
slates,  the  eaves  nearly  touching  the  ground;  these  hamlets, 
however,  gradually  become  less  frequent  as  the  path  grows 
more  steep  and  narrow,  until  they  finally  cease  at  a short 
distance  before  the  spot  is  attained  where  the  rivulet  is 
abandoned,  and  is  no  more  seen,  though  its  tributaries 
may  yet  be  heard  in  many  a gully,  or  descried  in  tiny  rills 
dashing  down  the  steeps.  Everything  here  is  wild,  strange, 
and  beautiful:  the  hill  up  which  winds  the  path  towers 
above  on  the  right,  whilst  on  the  farther  side  of  a profound 
ravine  rises  an  immense  mountain,  to  whose  extreme  altitudes 
the  eye  is  scarcely  able  to  attain;  but  the  most  singular 
feature  of  this  pass  are  the  hanging  fields  or  meadows  which 
cover  its  sides.  In  these,  as  I passed,  the  grass  was  growing 
luxuriantly,  and  in  many  the  mowers  were  plying  their 
scythes,  though  it  seemed  scarcely  possible  that  their 
feet  could  find  support  on  ground  so  precipitous:  above 
and  below  were  drift-ways,  so  small  as  to  seem  threads 
along  the  mountain  side.  A car,  drawn  by  oxen,  is  creeping 
round  yon  airy  eminence;  the  nearer  wheel  is  actually 
hanging  over  the  horrid  descent;  giddiness  seizes  the 
brain,  and  the  eye  is  rapidly  withdrawn.  A cloud  inter- 
venes, and  when  again  you  turn  to  watch  their  progress, 
the  objects  of  your  anxiety  have  disappeared.  Still  more 
narrow  becomes  the  path  along  which  you  yourself  are 
toiling,  and  its  turns  more  frequent.  You  have  already 
come  a distance  of  two  leagues,  and  still  one-third  of  the 


228 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


ascent  remains  unsurmounted.  You  are  not  yet  in  Galicia; 
and  you  still  hear  Castilian,  coarse  and  unpolished,  it  is 
true,  spoken  in  the  miserable  cabins  placed  in  the  sequestered 
nooks  which  you  pass  by  in  your  route. 

Shortly  before  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  pass 
thick  mists  began  to  envelop  the  tops  of  the  hills,  and  a 
drizzling  rain  descended.  “ These  mists,”  said  Antonio, 
“ are  what  the  Gallegans  call  bretima;  and  it  is  said  there 
is  never  any  lack  of  them  in  their  country.”  “ Have  you 
ever  visited  the  country  before?  ” I demanded.  “ Non, 
mon  maitre;  but  I have  frequently  lived  in  houses  where 
the  domestics  were  in  part  Gallegans,  on  which  account 
I know  not  a little  of  their  ways,  and  even  something  of 
their  language.”  “ Is  the  opinion  which  you  have  formed 
of  them  at  all  in  their  favour?  ” I inquired.  “ By  no 
means,  mon  maitre;  the  men  in  general  seem  clownish 
and  simple,  yet  they  are  capable  of  deceiving  the  most 
clever  filou  of  Paris;  and  as  for  the  women,  it  is  impossible 
to  live  in  the  same  house  with  them,  more  especially  if 
they  are  Camareras,  and  wait  upon  the  Senora;  they  are 
continually  breeding  dissensions  and  disputes  in  the  house, 
and  telling  tales  of  the  other  domestics.  I have  already 
lost  two  or  three  excellent  situations  in  Madrid,  solely 
owing  to  these  Gallegan  chambermaids.  We  have  now 
come  to  the  frontier,  mon  maitre,  for  such  I conceive  this 
village  to  be.” 

We  entered  the  village,  which  stood  on  the  summit 
of  the  mountain,  and  as  our  horses  and  ourselves  were 
by  this  time  much  fatigued,  we  looked  round  for  a place 
in  which  to  obtain  refreshment.  Close  by  the  gate  stood 
a building  which,  from  the  circumstance  of  a mule  or 
two  and  a wretched  pony  standing  before  it,  we  concluded 
was  the  posada,  as  in  effect  it  proved  to  be.  We  entered: 
several  soldiers  were  lolling  on  heaps  of  coarse  hay,  with 
which  the  place,  which  much  resembled  a stable,  was  half 
filled.  All  were  exceedingly  ill-looking  fellows,  and  very 
dirty.  They  were  conversing  with  each  other  in  a strange- 
sounding  dialect,  which  I supposed  to  be  Gallegan. 
Scarcely  did  they  perceive  us  when  two  or  three  of  them, 
starting  from  their  couch,  ran  up  to  Antonio,  whom  they 
welcomed  with  much  affection,  calling  him  companheiro. 
“ How  came  you  to  know  these  men?  ” I demanded  in 
French.  “ Ces  messieurs  sont  presque  tous  de  ma  connois- 
sance ,”  he  replied,  “ et,  entre  nous9  ce  sont  des  veritables 
vauriens  ; they  are  almost  all  robbers  and  assassins.  That 
fellow,  with  one  eye,  who  is  the  corporal,  escaped  a little 
time  ago  from  Madrid,  more  than  suspected  of  being 
concerned  in  an  affair  of  poisoning;  but  he  is  safe  enough 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


229 


here  in  his  own  country,  and  is  placed  to  guard  the  frontier, 
as  you  see;  but  we  must  treat  them  civilly,  mon  maitre; 
we  must  give  them  wine,  or  they  will  be  offended.  I kno w 
them,  mon  maitre — I know  them.  Here,  hostess,  bring 
an  azumbre  of  wine.” 

Whilst  Antonio  was  engaged  in  treating  his  friends, 
I led  the  horses  to  the  stable;  this  was  through  the  house, 
inn,  or  whatever  it  might  be  called.  The  stable  was  a 
wretched  shed,  in  which  the  horses  sank  to  their  fetlocks 
in  mud  and  puddle.  On  inquiring  for  barley,  I was  told 
that  I was  now  in  Galicia,  where  barley  was  not  used  for 
provender,  and  was  very  rare.  I was  offered  in  lieu  of  it 
Indian  corn,  which,  however,  the  horses  ate  without 
hesitation.  There  was  no  straw  to  be  had;  coarse  hay, 
half  green,  being  the  substitute.  By  trampling  about  in  the 
mud  of  the  stable  my  horse  soon  lost  a shoe,  for  which  I 
searched  in  vain.  “ Is  there  a blacksmith  in  the  village?  ” 
I demanded  of  a shock-headed  fellow  who  officiated  as  ostler. 

Ostler. — Si,  Senhor;  but  I suppose  you  have  brought 
horse-shoes  with  you,  or  that  large  beast  of  yours  cannot 
be  shod  in  this  village. 

Myself. — What  do  you  mean?  Is  the  blacksmith 
unequal  to  his  trade?  Cannot  he  put  on  a horse-shoe? 

Ostler. — Si,  Senhor;  he  can  put  on  a horse-shoe  if 
you  give  it  him;  but  there  are  no  horse-shoes  in  Galicia, 
at  least  in  these  parts. 

Myself. — Is  it  not  customary  then  to  shoe  the  horses 
in  Galicia? 

Ostler. — Senhor,  there  are  no  horses  in  Galicia,  there 
are  only  ponies;  and  those  who  bring  horses  to  Galicia, 
and  none  but  madmen  ever  do,  must  bring  shoes  to  fit 
them;  only  shoes  of  ponies  are  to  be  found  here. 

Myself. — What  do  you  mean  by  saying  that  only  mad- 
men bring  horses  to  Galicia? 

Ostler. — Senhor,  no  horse  can  stand  the  food  of  Galicia 
and  the  mountains  of  Galicia  long,  without  falling  sick; 
and  then  if  he  does  not  die  at  once,  he  will  cost  you  in 
farriers  more  than  he  is  worth;  besides,  a horse  is  of  no  use 
here,  and  cannot  perform  amongst  the  broken  ground 
the  tenth  part  of  the  service  which  a little  pony  mare  can. 
By  the  by,  Senhor,  I perceive  that  yours  is  an  entire  horse; 
now  out  of  twenty  ponies  that  you  see  on  the  roads  of 
Galicia,  nineteen  are  mares;  the  males  are  sent  down  into 
Castile  to  be  sold.  Senhor,  your  horse  will  become  heated 
on  our  roads,  and  will  catch  the  bad  glanders,  for  which 
there  is  no  remedy.  Senhor,  a man  must  be  mad  to  bring 
any  horse  to  Galicia,  but  twice  mad  to  bring  an  entero, 
as  you  have  done. 


230 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


“ A strange  country  this  of  Galicia,”  said  I,  and  went 
to  consult  with  Antonio. 

It  appeared  that  the  information  of  the  ostler  was 
literally  true  with  regard  to  the  horse-shoe;  at  least  the 
blacksmith  of  the  village,  to  whom  we  conducted  the 
animal,  confessed  his  inability  to  shoe  him,  having  none 
that  would  fit  his  hoof:  he  said  it  was  very  probable  that 
we  should  be  obliged  to  lead  the  animal  to  Lugo,  which, 
being  a cavalry  station,  we  might  perhaps  find  there  what 
we  wanted.  He  added,  however,  that  the  greatest  part 
of  the  cavalry  soldiers  were  mounted  on  the  ponies  of  the 
country,  the  mortality  amongst  the  horses  brought  from 
the  level  ground  into  Galicia  being  frightful.  Lugo  was 
ten  leagues  distant:  there  seemed,  however,  to  be  no 
remedy  at  hand  but  patience,  and,  having  refreshed  our- 
selves, we  proceeded,  leading  our  horses  by  the  bridle. 

We  were  now  on  level  ground,  being  upon  the  very 
top  of  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  Galicia.  This  level 
continued  for  about  a league,  when  we  began  to  descend. 
Before  we  had  crossed  the  plain,  which  was  overgrown 
with  furze  and  brushwood,  we  came  suddenly  upon  half  a 
dozen  fellows  armed  with  muskets  and  wearing  a tattered 
uniform.  We  at  first  supposed  them  to  be  banditti:  they 
were,  however,  only  a party  of  soldiers  who  had  been 
detached  from  the  station  we  had  just  quitted  to  escort 
one  of  the  provincial  posts  or  couriers.  They  were  clamorous 
for  cigars,  but  offered  us  no  farther  incivility.  Having  no 
cigars  to  bestow,  I gave  them  in  lieu  thereof  a small  piece 
of  silver.  Two  of  the  worst  looking  were  very  eager  to  be 
permitted  to  escort  us  to  Nogales,  the  village  where  we 
proposed  to  spend  the  night.  “ By  no  means  permit 
them,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ they  are  two  famous 
assassins  of  my  acquaintance;  I have  known  them  at 
Madrid:  in  the  first  ravine  they  will  shoot  and  plunder  us.” 
I therefore  civilly  declined  their  offer  and  departed.  “ You 
seem  to  be  acquainted  with  all  the  cut-throats  in  Galicia,” 
said  I to  Antonio,  as  we  descended  the  hill. 

“ With  respect  to  those  two  fellows,”  he  replied,  " I 
knew  them  when  I lived  as  cook  in  the  family  of  General 

q ? who  is  a Gallegan:  they  were  sworn  friends  of  the 

repostero.  All  the  Gallegans  in  Madrid  know  each  other, 
whether  high  or  low  makes  no  difference;  there,  at  least, 
they  are  all  good  friends,  and  assist  each  other  on  all 
imaginable  occasions;  and  if  there  be  a Gallegan  domestic 
in  a house,  the  kitchen  is  sure  to  be  filled  with  his  country- 
men, as  the  cook  frequently  knows  to  his  cost,  for  they 
generally  contrive  to  eat  up  any  little  perquisites  which 
he  may  have  reserved  for  himself  and  family.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


231 


Somewhat  less  than  half  way  down  the  mountain  we 
reached  a small  village.  On  observing  a blacksmith's 
shop,  we  stopped,  in  the  faint  hope  of  finding  a shoe  for 
the  horse,  who,  for  want  of  one,  was  rapidly  becoming 
lame.  To  our  great  joy  we  found  that  the  smith  was  in 
possession  of  one  single  horse-shoe,  which  some  time 
previously  he  had  found  upon  the  way.  This,  after  under- 
going much  hammering  and  alteration,  was  pronounced 
by  the  Gallegan  vulcan  to  be  capable  of  serving  in  lieu 
of  a better;  whereupon  we  again  mounted,  and  slowly 
continued  our  descent. 

Shortly  ere  sunset  we  arrived  at  Nogales,  a hamlet 
situate  in  a narrow  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
in  traversing  which  we  had  spent  the  day.  Nothing  could 
be  more  picturesque  than  the  appearance  of  this  spot: 
steep  hills,  thickly  clad  with  groves  and  forests  of  chestnuts, 
surrounded  it  on  every  side;  the  village  itself  was  almost 
embowered  in  trees,  and  close  beside  it  ran  a purling  brook. 
Here  we  found  a tolerably  large  and  commodious  posada. 

I was  languid  and  fatigued,  but  felt  little  desire  to 
sleep.  Antonio  cooked  our  supper,  or  rather  his  own, 
for  I had  no  appetite.  I sat  by  the  door,  gazing  on  the 
wood-^covered  heights  above  me,  or  on  the  waters  of  the 
rivulet,  occasionally  listening  to  the  people  who  lounged 
about  the  house,  conversing  in  the  country  dialect.  What 
a strange  tongue  is  the  Gallegan,  with  its  half  singing  half 
whining  accent,  and  with  its  confused  jumble  of  words 
from  many  languages,  but  chiefly  from  the  Spanish  and 
Portuguese.  “ Can  you  understand  this  conversation?  ” 
I demanded  of  Antonio,  who  had  by  this  time  rejoined  me. 
“ I cannot,  mon  maitre,”  he  replied;  “ I have  acquired  at 
various  times  a great  many  words  amongst  the  Gallegan 
domestics  in  the  kitchens  where  I have  officiated  as  cook, 
but  am  quite  unable  to  understand  any  long  conversation. 
I have  heard  the  Gallegans  say  that  in  no  two  villages 
is  it  spoken  in  one  and  the  same  manner,  and  that  very 
frequently  they  do  not  understand  each  other.  The  worst 
of  this  language  is,  that  everybody  on  first  hearing  it  thinks 
that  nothing  is  more  easy  than  to  understand  it,  as  words 
are  continually  occurring  which  he  has  heard  before:  but 
these  merely  serve  to  bewilder  and  puzzle  him,  causing 
him  to  misunderstand  everything  that  is  said;  whereas, 
if  he  were  totally  ignorant  of  the  tongue,  he  would  occa- 
sionally give  a shrewd  guess  at  what  was  meant,  as  I 
myself  frequently  do  when  I hear  Basque  spoken,  though 
the  only  word  which  I know  of  that  language  is  jaunguicoa.” 

As  the  night  closed  in  I retired  to  bed,  where  I remained 
four  or  five  hours,  restless  and  tossing  about;  the  fever 


232 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


of  Leon  still  clinging  to  my  system.  It  was  considerably 
past  midnight  when,  just  as  I was  sinking  into  a slumber, 
I was  aroused  by  a confused  noise  in  the  village,  and  the 
glare  of  lights  through  the  lattice  of  the  window  of  the  room 
where  I lay;  presently  entered  Antonio,  half  dressed. 
“ Mon  maitre,"  said  he,  “ the  grand  post  from  Madrid  to 
Coruna  has  just  arrived  in  the  village,  attended  by  a con- 
siderable escort,  and  an  immense  number  of  travellers. 
The  road  they  say,  between  here  and  Lugo,  is‘  infested 
with  robbers  and  Carlists,  who  are  committing  all  kinds  of 
atrocities;  let  us,  therefore,  avail  ourselves  of  the  oppor- 
tunity, and  by  midday  to-morrow  we  shall  find  ourselves 
safe  in  Lugo."  On  hearing  these  words,  I instantly  sprang 
out  of  bed  and  dressed  myself,  telling  Antonio  to  prepare 
the  horses  with  all  speed. 

We  were  soon  mounted  and  in  the  street,  amidst  a 
confused  throng  of  men  and  quadrupeds.  The  light  of  a 
couple  of  flambeaux,  which  were  borne  before  the  courier, 
shone  on  the  arms  of  several  soldiers,  seemingly  drawn  up 
on  either  side  of  the  road;  the  darkness,  however,  prevented 
me  from  distinguishing  objects  very  clearly.  The  courier 
himself  was  mounted  on  a little  shaggy  pony;  before  and 
behind  him  were  two  immense  portmanteaux,  or  leather 
sacks,  the  ends  of  which  nearly  touched  the  ground.  For 
about  a quarter  of  an  hour  there  was  much  hubbub,  shout- 
ing, and  trampling,  at  the  end  of  which  period  the  order 
was  given  to  proceed.  Scarcely  had  we  left  the  village 
when  the  flambeaux  were  extinguished,  and  we  were  left 
in  almost  total  darkness;  for  some  time  we  were  amongst 
woods  and  trees,  as  was  evident  from  the  rustling  of  leaves 
on  every  side.  My  horse  was  very  uneasy  and  neighed 
fearfully,  occasionally  raising  himself  bolt  upright.  “ If 
your  horse  is  not  more  quiet,  cavalier,  we  shall  be  obliged 
to  shoot  him,"  said  a voice  in  an  Andalusian  accent; 
“ he  disturbs  the  whole  cavalcade/'  “ That  would  be  a 
pity,  sergeant,"  I replied,  “ for  he  is  a Cordovese  by  the 
four  sides;  he  is  not  used  to  the  ways  of  this  barbarous 
country."  “ Oh,  he  is  a Cordovese,"  said  the  voice, 
“ vaya,  I did  not  know  that;  I am  from  Cordova  myself. 
Pobrecito!  let  me  pat  him — yes,  I know  by  his  coat  that 
he  is  my  countryman — shoot  him,  indeed  1 vaya,  I would 
fain  see  the  Gallegan  devil  who  would  dare  to  harm  him. 
Barbarous  country,  io  lo  creo  : neither  oil  nor  olives,  bread 
nor  barley.  You  have  been  at  Cordova.  Vaya;  oblige 
me,  cavalier,  by  taking  this  cigar." 

In  this  manner  we  proceeded  for  several  hours,  up 
hill  and  down  dale,  but  generally  at  a very  slow  pace. 
The  soldiers  who  escorted  us  from  time  to  time  sang 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


233 


patriotic  songs,  breathing  love  and  attachment  to  the  young 
Queen  Isabel,  and  detestation  of  the  grim  tyrant  Carlos. 
One  of  the  stanzas  which  reached  my  ears,  ran  something 
in  the  following  style: — 

“ Don  Carlos  is  a lioary  churl, 

Of  cruel  heart  and  cold  ; 

But  Isabel’s  a harmless  girl, 

Of  only  six  years  old.53 

At  last  the  day  began  to  break,  and  I found  myself  amidst 
a train  of  twTo  or  three  hundred  people,  some  on  foot, 
but  the  greater  part  mounted,  either  on  mules  or  the 
pony  mares:  I could  not  distinguish  a single  horse  except 
my  own  and  Antonio’s.  A few  soldiers  were  thinly  scattered 
along  the  road.  The  country  was  hilly,  but  less  mountain- 
ous and  picturesque  than  the  one  which  we  had  traversed 
the  preceding  day;  it  was  for  the  most  part  partitioned 
into  small  fields,  which  were  planted  with  maize.  At  the 
distance  of  every  two  or  three  leagues  we  changed  our 
escort,  at  some  village  where  was  stationed  a detachment. 
The  villages  were  mostly  an  assemblage  of  wretched  cabins; 
the  roofs  were  thatched,  dank,  and  moist,  and  not  un- 
frequently  covered  with  rank  vegetation.  There  were 
dunghills  before  the  doors,  and  no  lack  of  pools  and  puddles. 
Immense  swine  were  stalking  about,  intermingled  with 
naked  children.  The  interior  of  the  cabins  corresponded 
with  their  external  appearance:  they  were  filled  with 

filth  and  misery. 

We  reached  Lugo  about  two  hours  past  noon:  during 
the  last  two  or  three  leagues,  I became  so  overpowered 
with  weariness,  the  result  of  want  of  sleep  and  my  late 
illness,  that  I was  continually  dozing  in  my  saddle,  so 
that  I took  but  little  notice  of  what  was  passing.  We 
put  up  at  a large  posada  without  the  wall  of  the  town, 
built  upon  a steep  bank,  and  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  country  towards  the  east.  Shortly  after  our 
arrival,  the  rain  began  to  descend  in  torrents,  and  continued 
without  intermission  during  the  next  two  days,  which  was, 
however,  to  me  but  a slight  source  of  regret,  as  I passed 
the  entire  time  in  bed,  and  I may  almost  say  in  slumber. 
On  the  evening  of  the  third  day  I arose. 

There  was  much  bustle  in  the  house,  caused  by  the 
arrival  of  a family  from  Coruna;  they  came  in  a large 
jaunting  car,  escorted  by  four  carabineers.  The  family 
was  rather  numerous,  consisting  of  a father,  son,  and 
eleven  daughters,  the  eldest  of  whom  might  be  about 
eighteen.  A shabby-looking  fellow,  dressed  in  a jerkin 
and  wearing  a high-crowned  hat,  attended  as  domestic, 


234 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


They  arrived  very  wet  and  shivering,  and  all  seemed  very 
disconsolate,  especially  the  father,  who  was  a well-looking 
middle-aged  man.  " Can  we  be  accommodated?  ” he 
demanded  in  a gentle  voice  of  the  man  of  the  house;  “ can 
we  be  accommodated  in  this  fonda?  ” 

“ Certainly,  your  worship,”  replied  the  other;  “ our 
house  is  large.  How  many  apartments  does  your  worship 
require  for  your  family?  ” 

“ One  will  be  sufficient/’  replied  the  stranger. 

The  host,  who  was  a gouty  personage  and  leaned  upon 
a stick,  looked  for  a moment  at  the  traveller,  then  at 
every  member  of  his  family,  not  forgetting  the  domestic, 
and,  without  any  farther  comment  than  a slight  shrug, 
led  the  way  to  the  door  of  an  apartment  containing  two 
or  three  flock  beds,  and  which  on  my  arrival  I had  objected 
to  as  being  small,  dark,  and  incommodious;  this  he  flung 
open,  and  demanded  whether  it  would  serve. 

“ It  is  rather  small,”  replied  the  gentleman;  " I think, 
however,  that  it  will  do.” 

“ I am  glad  of  it,”  replied  the  host.  “ Shall  we  make  any 
preparations  for  the  supper  of  your  worship  and  family?  ” 

“ No,  I thank  you,”  replied  the  stranger,  “ my  own 
domestic  will  prepare  the  slight  refreshment  we  are  in  need 
of.” 

The  key  was  delivered  to  the  domestic,  and  the  whole 
family  ensconced  themselves  in  their  apartment:  before, 
however,  this  was  effected,  the  escort  were  dismissed,  the 
principal  carabineer  being  presented  with  a peseta.  The 
man  stood  surveying  the  gratuity  for  about  half  a minute, 
as  it  glittered  in  the  palm  of  his  hand;  then  with  an  abrupt 
Vamos ! he  turned  upon  his  heel,  and  without  a word  of 
salutation  to  any  person,  departed  with  the  men  under  his 
command. 

“ Who  can  these  strangers  be?  ” said  I to  the  host, 
as  we  sat  together  in  a large  corridor  open  on  one  side, 
and  which  occupied  the  entire  front  of  the  house. 

“ I know  not,”  he  replied,  “ but  by  their  escort  I sup- 
pose they  are  people  holding  some  official  situation.  They 
are  not  of  this  province,  however,  and  I more  than  suspect 
them  to  be  Andalusians.” 

In  a few  minutes  the  door  of  the  apartment  occupied 
by  the  strangers  was  opened,  and  the  domestic  appeared 
bearing  a cruse  in  his  hand.  “ Pray,  Senor  Patron,” 
demanded  he,  “ where  can  I buy  some  oil?  ” 

“ There  is  oil  in  the  house,”  replied  the  host,  “ if  you 
want  to  purchase  any;  but  if,  as  is  probable,  you  suppose 
that  we  shall  gain  a cuarto  by  selling  it,  you  will  find 
some  over  the  way.  It  is  as  I suspected,”  continued 


235 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

the  host,  when  the  man  had  departed  on  his  errand,  " they 
are  Andalusians,  and  are  about  to  make  what  they  call 
gaspacho,  on  which  they  will  all  sup.  Oh,  the  meanness 
of  these  Andalusians!  they  are  come  here  to  suck  the 
vitals  of  Galicia,  and  yet  envy  the  poor  innkeeper  the  gain 
of  a cuarto  in  the  oil  which  they  require  for  their  gaspacho. 
I tell  you  one  thing,  master,  when  that  fellow  returns, 
and  demands  bread  and  garlic  to  mix  with  the  oil,  I will 
tell  him  there  is  none  in  the  house:  as  he  has  bought  the 
oil  abroad,  so  he  may  the  bread  and  garlic;  aye,  and  the 
water  too  for  that  matter.” 


CHAPTER  XX Y I 

Lugo — The  Baths — A Family  History — Miguelets — The  Three  Heads — A 
Farrier — English  Squadron — Sale  of  Testaments — Coruna — The  Re- 
cognition— Luigi  Piozzi — The  Speculation — A Blank  Prospect — 
John  Moore. 

At  Lugo  I found  a wealthy  bookseller,  to  whom  I brought 
a letter  of  recommendation  from  Madrid.  He  willingly 
undertook  the  sale  of  my  books.  The  Lord  deigned  to 
favour  my  feeble  exertions  in  his  cause  at  Lugo.  I brought 
thither  thirty  Testaments,  all  of  which  were  disposed  of 
in  one  day;  the  bishop  of  the  place,  for  Lugo  is  an  episcopal 
see,  purchasing  two  copies  for  himself,  whilst  several  priests 
and  ex-friars,  instead  of  following  the  example  of  their 
brethren  at  Leon,  by  persecuting  the  work,  spoke  well  of 
it  and  recommended  its  perusal.  I was  much  grieved  that 
my  stock  of  these  holy  books  was  exhausted,  there  being 
a great  demand;  and  had  I been  able  to  supply  them, 
quadruple  the  quantity  might  have  been  sold  during  the 
few  days  that  I continued  at  Lugo. 

Lugo  contains  about  six  thousand  inhabitants.  It 
is  situated  on  lofty  ground,  and  is  defended  by  ancient 
walls.  It  possesses  no  very  remarkable  edifice,  and  the 
cathedral  church  itself  is  a small  mean  building.  In  the 
centre  of  the  town  is  the  principal  square,  a light  cheerful 
place,  not  surrounded  by  those  heavy  cumbrous  buildings 
with  which  the  Spaniards  both  in  ancient  and  modern  times 
have  encircled  their  plazas.  It  is  singular  enough  that 
Lugo,  at  present  a place  of  very  little  importance,  should 
at  one  period  have  been  the  capital  of  Spain:  yet  such 
it  was  in  the  time  of  the  Romans,  who,  as  they  were  a people 
not  much  guided  by  caprice,  had  doubtless  very  excellent 
reasons  for  the  preference  which  they  gave  to  the  locality. 


236 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


There  are  many  Roman  remains  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
place,  the  most  remarkable  of  which  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  medicinal  baths,  which  stand  on  the  southern 
side  of  the  river  Minho,  which  creeps  through  the  valley 
beneath  the  town.  The  Minho  in  this  place  is  a dark 
and  sullen  stream,  with  high,  precipitous,  and  thickly 
wooded  banks. 

One  evening  I visited  the  baths,  accompanied  by  my 
friend  the  bookseller.  They  had  been  built  over  warm 
springs  which  flow  into  the  river.  Notwithstanding  their 
ruinous  condition,  they  were  crowded  with  sick,  hoping  to 
derive  benefit  from  the  waters,  which  are  still  famed  for 
their  sanative  power.  These  patients  exhibited  a strange 
spectacle  as,  wrapped  in  flannel  gowns  much  resembling 
shrouds,  they  lay  immersed  in  the  tepid  waters  amongst 
disjointed  stones,  and  overhung  with  steam  and  reek. 

Three  or  four  days  after  my  arrival  I was  seated  in  the 
corridor  which,  as  I have  already  observed,  occupied 
the  entire  front  of  the  house.  The  sky  was  unclouded, 
and  the  sun  shone  most  gloriously,  enlivening  every  object 
around.  Presently  the  door  of  the  apartment  in  which 
the  strangers  were  lodged  opened,  and  forth  walked  the 
whole  family,  with  the  exception  of  the  father,  who,  I 
presumed,  was  absent  on  business.  The  shabby  domestic 
brought  up  the  rear,  and  on  leaving  the  apartment,  care- 
fully locked  the  door,  and  secured  the  key  in  his  pocket. 
The  one  son  and  the  eleven  daughters  were  all  dressed 
remarkably  well:  the  boy  something  after  the  English 

fashion,  in  jacket  and  trousers,  the  young  ladies  in  spotless 
white:  they  were,  upon  the  whole,  a very  good-looking 
family,  with  dark  eyes  and  olive  complexions,  but  the  eldest 
daughter  was  remarkably  handsome.  They  arranged 
themselves  upon  the  benches  of  the  corridor,  the  shabby 
domestic  sitting  down  amongst  them  without  any  cere- 
mony whatever.  They  continued  for  some  time  in  silence, 
gazing  with  disconsolate  looks  upon  the  houses  of  the 
suburb  and  the  dark  walls  of  the  town,  until  the  eldest 
daughter,  or  sehorita  as  she  was  called,  broke  silence 
with  an  “ Ay  Dios  mio  ! 99 

Domestic . — Ay  Dios  mio  ! we  have  found  our  way  to 
a pretty  country. 

Myself. — I really  can  see  nothing  so  very  bad  in  the 
country,  which  is  by  nature  the  richest  in  all  Spain,  and 
the  most  abundant.  True  it  is  that  the  generality  of  the 
inhabitants  are  wretchedly  poor,  but  they  themselves  are 
to  blame,  and  not  the  country. 

Domestic. — Cavalier,  the  country  is  a horrible  one, 
say  nothing  to  the  contrary.  We  are  ail  frightened,  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


237 


young  ladies,  the  young  gentleman,  and  myself;  even 
his  worship  is  frightened,  and  says  that  we  are  come  to 
this  country  for  our  sins.  It  rains  every  day,  and  this  is 
almost  the  first  time  that  we  have  seen  the  sun  since  our 
arrival.  It  rains  continually,  and  one  cannot  step  out 
without  being  up  to  the  ankles  in  fango;  and  then,  again, 
there  is  not  a house  to  be  found. 

Myself . — I scarcely  understand  you.  There  appears 
to  be  no  lack  of  houses  in  this  neighbourhood. 

Domestic . — Excuse  me,  sir.  His  worship  hired  yesterday 
a house,  for  which  he  engaged  to  pay  fourteen  pence  daily; 
but  when  the  senorita  saw  it,  she  wept,  and  said  it  was 
no  house,  but  a hog-sty,  so  his  worship  paid  one  day’s 
rent  and  renounced  his  bargain.  Fourteen  pence  a day! 
why,  in  our  country,  we  can  have  a palace  for  that  money. 

Myself. — From  what  country  do  you  come? 

Domestic. — Cavalier,  you  appear  to  be  a decent  gentle- 
man, and  I will  tell  you  our  history.  We  are  from 
Andalusia,  and  his  worship  was  last  year  receiver-general 
for  Granada:  his  salary  was  fourteen  thousand  rials, 

with  which  we  contrived  to  live  very  commodiously — 
attending  the  bull  funcions  regularly,  or  if  there  were  no 
bulls,  we  went  to  see  the  novillos,  and  now  and  then  to 
the  opera.  In  a word,  sir,  we  had  our  diversions  and  felt 
at  our  ease;  so  much  so,  that  his  worship  was  actually 
thinking  of  purchasing  a pony  for  the  young  gentleman, 
who  is  fourteen,  and  must  learn  to  ride  now  or  never. 
Cavalier,  the  ministry  was  changed,  and  the  new  comers, 
who  were  no  friends  to  his  worship,  deprived  him  of  his 
situation.  Cavalier,  they  removed  us  from  that  blessed 
country  of  Granada,  where  our  salary  was  fourteen  thousand 
rials,  and  sent  us  to  Galicia,  to  this  fatal  town  of  Lugo, 
where  his  worship  is  compelled  to  serve  for  ten  thousand, 
which  is  quite  insufficient  to  maintain  us  in  our  former 
comforts.  Good-bye,  I trow,  to  bull  funcions,  and  novillos, 
and  the  opera.  Good-bye  to  the  hope  of  a horse  for  the 
young  gentleman.  Cavalier,  I grow  desperate:  hold  your 
tongue,  for  God’s  sake!  for  I can  talk  no  more.” 

On  hearing  this  history  I no  longer  wondered  that  the 
receiver-general  was  eager  to  save  a cuarto  in  the  purchase 
of  the  oil  for  the  gaspacho  of  himself  and  family  of  eleven 
daughters,  one  son,  and  a domestic. 

We  staid  one  week  at  Lugo,  and  then  directed  our 
steps  to  Coruna,  about  twrelve  leagues  distant.  We  arose 
before  daybreak  in  order  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  escort 
of  the  general  post,  in  whose  company  we  travelled  upwards 
of  six  leagues.  There  was  much  talk  of  robbers,  and  flying 
parties  of  the  factious,  on  which  account  our  escort  was 


238 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


considerable.  At  the  distance  of  five  or  six  leagues  from 
Lugo,  our  guard,  in  lieu  of  regular  soldiers,  consisted  of  a 
body  of  about  fifty  Miguelets.  They  had  all  the  appearance 
of  banditti,  but  a finer  body  of  ferocious  fellows  I never 
saw.  They  were  all  men  in  the  prime  of  life,  mostly  of 
tall  stature,  and  of  Herculean  brawn  and  limbs.  They 
wore  huge  whiskers,  and  walked  with  a fanfaronading  air, 
as  if  they  courted  danger,  and  despised  it.  In  every 
respect  they  stood  in  contrast  to  the  soldiers  who  had 
hitherto  escorted  us,  who  were  mere  feeble  boys  from 
sixteen  to  eighteen  years  of  age,  and  possessed  of  neither 
energy  nor  activity.  The  proper  dress  of  the  Miguelet, 
if  it  resembles  anything  military,  is  something  akin  to  that 
anciently  used  by  the  English  marines.  They  wear  a 
peculiar  kind  of  hat,  and  generally  leggings,  or  gaiters, 
and  their  arms  are  the  gun  and  bayonet.  The  colour  of 
their  dress  is  mostly  dark  brown.  They  observe  little 
or  no  discipline  whether  on  a march  or  in  the  field  of  action. 
They  are  excellent  irregular  troops,  and  when  on  actual 
service  are  particularly  useful  as  skirmishers.  Their  proper 
duty,  however,  is  to  officiate  as  a species  of  police,  and  to 
clear  the  roads  of  robbers,  for  which  duty  they  are  in  one 
respect  admirably  calculated,  having  been  generally 
robbers  themselves  at  one  period  of  their  lives.  Why 
these  people  are  called  Miguelets  it  is  not  easy  to  say, 
but  it  is  probable  that  they  have  derived  this  appellation 
from  the  name  of  their  original  leader.  I regret  that  the 
paucity  of  my  own  information  will  not  allow  me  to  enter 
into  farther  particulars  with  respect  to  this  corps,  con- 
cerning which  I have  little  doubt  that  many  remarkable 
things  might  be  said. 

Becoming  weary  of  the  slow  travelling  of  the  post, 
I determined  to  brave  all  risk,  and  to  push  forward.  In 
this,  however,  I was  guilty  of  no  slight  imprudence,  as  by 
so  doing  I was  near  falling  into  the  hands  of  robbers.  Two 
fellows  suddenly  confronted  me  with  presented  carbines, 
which  they  probably  intended  to  discharge  into  my  body, 
but  they  took  fright  at  the  noise  of  Antonio's  horse,  who 
was  following  a little  way  behind.  The  affair  occurred 
at  the  bridge  of  Castellanos,  a spot  notorious  for  robbery 
and  murder,  and  well  adapted  for  both,  for  it  stands  at  the 
bottom  of  a deep  dell  surrounded  by  wild  desolate  hills. 
Only  a quarter  of  an  hour  previous  I had  passed  three 
ghastly  heads  stuck  on  poles  standing  by  the  way-side; 
they  were  those  of  a captain  of  banditti  and  two  of  his 
accomplices,  who  had  been  seized  and  executed  about  two 
months  before.  Their  principal  haunt  was  the  vicinity 
of  the  bridge,  and  it  was  their  practice  to  cast  the  bodies 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


239 


of  the  murdered  into  the  deep  black  water  which  runs 
rapidly  beneath.  Those  three  heads  will  always  live  in 
my  remembrance,  particularly  that  of  the  captain,  which 
stood  on  a higher  pole  than  the  other  two:  the  long  hair 
was  waving  in  the  wind,  and  the  blackened,  distorted 
features  were  grinning  in  the  sun.  The  fellows  whom  I 
met  were  the  relics  of  the  band. 

We  arrived  at  Betanzos  late  in  the  afternoon.  This 
town  stands  on  a creek  at  some  distance  from  the  sea, 
and  about  three  leagues  from  Coruna.  It  is  surrounded 
on  three  sides  by  lofty  hills.  The  weather  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  day  had  been  dull  and  lowering,  and 
we  found  the  atmosphere  of  Betanzos  insupportably  close 
and  heavy.  Sour  and  disagreeable  odours  assailed  our 
olfactory  organs  from  all  sides.  The  streets  were  filthy — 
so  were  the  houses,  and  especially  the  posada.  We  entered 
the  stable;  it  was  strewed  with  rotten  sea-weeds  and  other 
rubbish,  in  which  pigs  were  wallowing ; huge  and  loathsome 
flies  were  buzzing  around.  “ What  a pest-house!  ” I 
exclaimed.  But  we  could  find  no  other  stable,  and  were 
therefore  obliged  to  tether  the  unhappy  animals  to  the 
filthy  mangers.  The  only  provender  that  could  be  obtained 
was  Indian  corn.  At  nightfall  I led  them  to  drink  at  a 
small  river  which  passes  through  Betanzos.  My  entero 
swallowed  the  water  greedily;  but  as  we  returned  towards 
the  inn,  I observed  that  he  was  sad,  and  that  his  head 
drooped.  He  had  scarcely  reached  the  stall,  when  a deep 
hoarse  cough  assailed  him.  I remembered  the  words  of 
the  ostler  in  the  mountains,  “ the  man  must  be  mad  who 
brings  a horse  to  Galicia,  and  doubly  so  he  who  brings  an 
entero.”  During  the  greater  part  of  the  day  the  animal 
had  been  much  heated,  walking  amidst  a throng  of  at 
least  a hundred  pony  mares.  He  now  began  to  shiver 
violently.  I procured  a quart  of  anise  brandy,  with  which, 
assisted  by  Antonio,  I rubbed  his  body  for  nearly  an  hour, 
till  his  coat  was  covered  with  a white  foam;  but  his  cough 
increased  perceptibly,  his  eyes  were  becoming  fixed,  and 
his  members  rigid.  “ There  is  no  remedy  but  bleeding,” 
said  I.  “ Run  for  a farrier.”  The  farrier  came.  “ You 
must  bleed  the  horse,”  I shouted;  “ take  from  him  an 
azumbre  of  blood.”  The  farrier  looked  at  the  animal, 
and  made  for  the  door.  “ Where  are  you  going?  ” I 
demanded.  “ Home,”  he  replied.  “ But  we  want  you  here.” 
“ I know  you  do,”  was  his  answer;  “ and  on  that  account 
I am  going.”  “ But  you  must  bleed  the  horse,  or  he  will 
die.”  “ I know  he  will,”  said  the  farrier,  “ but  I will  not 
bleed  him.”  “ Why?  ” I demanded.  “ I will  not  bleed 
him,  but  under  one  condition.”  “ What  is  that?  ” “ What 


240 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


is  it! — that  you  pay  me  an  ounce  of  gold.”  “ Run  up  stairs 
for  the  red  morocco  case,”  said  I to  Antonio.  The  case 
was  brought;  I took  out  a large  fleam,  and  with  the  assist- 
ance of  a stone,  drove  it  into  the  principal  artery  of  the 
horse's  leg.  The  blood  at  first  refused  to  flow;  at  last, 
with  much  rubbing,  it  began  to  trickle,  and  then  to  stream; 
it  continued  so  for  half  an  hour.  “ The  horse  is  fainting, 
mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio.  “ Hold  him  up,”  said  I, 
“ and  in  another  ten  minutes  we  will  stop  the  vein.” 

I closed  the  vein,  and  whilst  doing  so  I looked  up 
into  the  farrier's  face,  arching  my  eyebrows. 

“Carracho!  what  an  evil  wizard,”  muttered  the 
farrier,  as  he  walked  away.  “ If  I had  my  knife  here  I 
would  stick  him.”  We  bled  the  horse  again,  during 
the  night,  which  second  bleeding  I believe  saved  him. 
Towards  morning  he  began  to  eat  his  food. 

The  next  day  we  departed  for  Coruna,  leading  our 
horses  by  the  bridle:  the  day  was  magnificent,  and  our 
walk  delightful.  We  passed  along  beneath  tall  um- 
brageous trees,  which  skirted  the  road  from  Betanzos 
to  within  a short  distance  of  Coruna.  Nothing  could  be 
more  smiling  and  cheerful  than  the  appearance  of  the 
country  around.  Vines  were  growing  in  abundance  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  villages  through  which  we  passed, 
whilst  millions  of  maize  plants  upreared  their  tall  stalks 
and  displayed  their  broad  green  leaves  in  the  fields.  After 
walking  about  three  hours,  we  obtained  a view  of  the  bay 
of  Coruna,  in  which,  even  at  the  distance  of  a league,  we 
could  distinguish  three  or  four  immense  ships  riding  at 
anchor.  “ Can  these  vessels  belong  to  Spain?  ” I demanded 
of  myself.  In  the  very  next  village,  however,  we  were 
informed  that  the  preceding  evening  an  English  squadron 
had  arrived,  for  what  reason  nobody  could  say.  “ How- 
ever,” continued  our  informant,  “ they  have  doubtless 
some  design  upon  Galicia.  These  foreigners  are  the  ruin 
of  Spain.” 

We  put  up  in  what  is  called  the  Calle  Real,  in  an  excel- 
lent fonda,  or  posada,  kept  by  a short,  thick,  comical- 
looking  person,  a Genoese  by  birth.  He  was  married  to 
a tall,  ugly,  but  good-tempered  Basque  woman,  by  whom 
he  had  been  blessed  with  a son  and  daughter.  His  wife, 
however,  had  it  seems  of  late  summoned  all  her  female 
relations  from  Guipuscoa,  who  now  filled  the  house  to  the 
number  of  nine,  officiating  as  chambermaids,  cooks,  and 
scullions:  they  were  all  very  ugly,  but  good-natured, 

and  of  immense  volubility  of  tongue.  Throughout  the 
whole  day  the  house  resounded  with  their  excellent  Basque 
and  very  bad  Castilian.  The  Genoese,  on  the  contrary, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


241 


spoke  little,  for  which  he  might  have  assigned  a good 
reason ; he  had  lived  thirty  years  in  Spain,  and  had  forgotten 
his  own  language  without  acquiring  Spanish,  which  he 
spoke  very  imperfectly. 

We  found  Coruna  full  of  bustle  and  life,  owing  to  the 
arrival  of  the  English  squadron.  On  the  following  day, 
however,  it  departed,  being  bound  for  the  Mediterranean 
on  a short  cruise,  whereupon  matters  instantly  returned 
to  their  usual  course. 

I had  a d6pot  of  five  hundred  Testaments  at  Coruna, 
from  which  it  was  my  intention  to  supply  the  principal 
towns  of  Galicia.  Immediately  on  my  arrival  I published 
advertisements,  according  to  my  usual  practice,  and  the 
book  obtained  a tolerable  sale — seven  or  eight  copies  per 
day  on  the  average.  Some  people,  perhaps,  on  perusing 
these  details,  will  be  tempted  to  exclaim,  “ These  are 
small  matters,  and  scarcely  worthy  of  being  mentioned.” 
But  let  such  bethink  them,  that  till  within  a few  months 
previous  to  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking,  the  very 
existence  of  the  gospel  was  almost  unknown  in  Spain, 
and  that  it  must  necessarily  be  a difficult  task  to  induce 
a people  like  the  Spaniards,  who  read  very  little,  to  purchase 
a work  like  the  New  Testament,  which,  though  of  para- 
mount importance  to  the  soul,  affords  but  slight  prospect 
of  amusement  to  the  frivolous  and  carnally  minded.  I 
hoped  that  the  present  was  the  dawning  of  better  and 
more  enlightened  times,  and  rejoiced  in  the  idea  that 
Testaments,  though  but  few  in  number,  were  being  sold 
in  unfortunate  benighted  Spain,  from  Madrid  to  the  further- 
most parts  of  Galicia,  a distance  of  nearly  four  hundred 
miles. 

Coruna  stands  on  a peninsula,  having  on  one  side  the 
sea,  and  on  the  other  the  celebrated  bay,  generally  called 
the  Groyne.  It  is  divided  into  the  old  and  new  town, 
the  latter  of  which  was  at  one  time  probably  a mere  suburb. 
The  old  town  is  a desolate  ruinous  place,  separated  from 
the  new  by  a wide  moat.  The  modern  town  is  a much 
more  agreeable  spot,  and  contains  one  magnificent  street, 
the  Calle  Real,  where  the  principal  merchants  reside. 
One  singular  feature  of  this  street  is,  that  it  is  laid  entirely 
with  flags  of  marble,  along  which  troop  ponies  and  cars 
as  if  it  were  a common  pavement. 

It  is  a saying  amongst  the  inhabitants  of  Coruna,  that 
in  their  town  there  is  a street  so  clean,  that  puchera  may 
be  eaten  off  it  without  the  slightest  inconvenience.  This 
may  certainly  be  the  fact  after  one  of  those  rains  which 
so  frequently  drench  Galicia,  when  the  appearance  of  the 
pavement  of  the  street  is  particularly  brilliant,  Coruna 


242 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


was  at  one  time  a place  of  considerable  commerce,  the 
greater  part  of  which  has  latterly  departed  to  Santander, 
a town  which  stands  a considerable  distance  down  the  Bay 
of  Biscay. 

“ Are  you  going  to  Saint  James,  Giorgio?  If  so,  you 
will  perhaps  convey  a message  to  my  poor  countryman,” 
said  a voice  to  me  one  morning  in  broken  English,  as  I 
was  standing  at  the  door  of  my  posada,  in  the  royal  street 
of  Coruna. 

I looked  round  and  perceived  a man  standing  near 
me  at  the  door  of  a shop  contiguous  to  the  inn.  He  ap- 
peared to  be  about  sixty-five,  with  a pale  face  and  remark- 
ably red  nose.  He  was  dressed  in  a loose  green  great 
coat,  in  his  mouth  was  a long  clay  pipe,  in  his  hand  a long 
painted  stick. 

“ Who  are  you,  and  who  is  your  countryman?  ” I 
demanded;  “ I do  not  know  you.” 

“ I know  you,  however,”  replied  the  man;  “ you  pur- 
chased the  first  knife  that  I ever  sold  in  the  market-place 
of  N .” 

Myself . — Ah,  I remember  you  now,  Luigi  Piozzi;  and 
well  do  I remember  also,  how,  when  a boy,  twenty  years 
ago,  I used  to  repair  to  your  stall,  and  listen  to  you  and 
your  countrymen  discoursing  in  Milanese. 

Luigi. — Ah,  those  were  happy  times  to  me.  Oh,  how 
they  rushed  back  on  my  remembrance  when  I saw  you 
ride  up  to  the  door  of  the  posada.  I instantly  went  in, 
closed  my  shop,  lay  down  upon  my  bed  and  wept. 

Myself . — I see  no  reason  why  you  should  so  much 
regret  those  times.  I knew  you  formerly  in  England 
as  an  itinerant  pedlar,  and  occasionally  as  master  of  a stall 
in  the  market-place  of  a country  town.  I now  find  you 
in  a seaport  of  Spain,  the  proprietor,  seemingly,  of  a con- 
siderable shop.  I cannot  see  why  you  should  regret  the 
difference. 

Luigi  (dashing  his  pipe  on  the  ground). — Regret  the 
difference!  Do  you  know  one  thing?  England  is  the 
heaven  of  the  Piedmontese  and  Milanese,  and  especially 
those  of  Como.  We  never  lie  down  to  rest  but  we  dream 
of  it,  whether  we  are  in  our  own  country  or  in  a foreign 
land,  as  I am  now.  Regret  the  difference,  Giorgio!  Do 
I hear  such  words  from  your  lips,  and  you  an  Englishman? 
I would  rather  be  the  poorest  tramper  on  the  roads  of 
England,  than  lord  of  all  within  ten  leagues  of  the  shore 
of  the  lake  of  Como,  and  much  the  same  say  all  my  country- 
men who  have  visited  England,  wherever  they  now  be. 
Regret  the  difference!  I have  ten  letters,  from  as  many 
countrymen  in  America,  who  say  they  are  rich  and  thriving, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


243 


and  principal  men  and  merchants;  but  every  night,  when 
their  heads  are  reposing  on  their  pillows,  their  souls 
auslandra,  hurrying  away  to  England,  and  its  green  lanes 
and  farm-yards.  And  there  they  are  with  their  boxes 
on  the  ground,  displaying  their  looking-glasses  and  other 
goods  to  the  honest  rustics  and  their  dames  and  their 
daughters,  and  selling  away  and  chaffering  and  laughing 
just  as  of  old.  And  there  they  are  again  at  nightfall  in 
the  hedge  alehouses,  eating  their  toasted  cheese  and  their 
bread,  and  drinking  the  Suffolk  ale,  and  listening  to  the 
roaring  song  and  merry  jest  of  the  labourers.  Now,  if 
they  regret  England  so  who  are  in  America,  which  they  own 
to  be  a happy  country,  and  good  for  those  of  Piedmont 
and  of  Como,  how  much  more  must  I regret  it,  when,  after 
the  lapse  of  so  many  years,  I find  myself  in  Spain,  in  this 
frightful  town  of  Coruna,  driving  a ruinous  trade,  and 
where  months  pass  by  without  my  seeing  a single  English 
face,  or  hearing  a word  of  the  blessed  English  tongue. 

Myself. — With  such  a predilection  for  England,  what 
could  have  induced  you  to  leave  it  and  come  to  Spain? 

Luigi . — I will  tell  you:  about  sixteen  years  ago  a 

universal  desire  seized  our  people  in  England  to  become 
something  more  than  they  had  hitherto  been,  pedlars  and 
trampers;  they  wished,  moreover,  for  mankind  are  never 
satisfied,  to  see  other  countries:  so  the  greater  part  forsook 
England.  Where  formerly  there  had  been  ten,  at  present 
scarcely  lingers  one.  Almost  all  went  to  America,  which, 
as  I told  you  before,  is  a happy  country,  and  specially 
good  for  us  men  of  Como.  Well,  all  my  comrades  and 
relations  passed  over  the  sea  to  the  West.  I,  too,  was  bent 
on  travelling;  but  whither?  Instead  of  going  towards 
the  West  with  the  rest,  to  a country  where  they  have  all 
thriven,  I must  needs  come  by  myself  to  this  land  of  Spain; 
a country  in  which  no  foreigner  settles  without  dying  of 
a broken  heart  sooner  or  later.  I had  an  idea  in  my  head 
that  I could  make  a fortune  at  once,  by  bringing  a cargo 
of  common  English  goods,  like  those  which  I had  been 
in  the  habit  of  selling  amongst  the  villagers  of  England. 
So  I freighted  half  a ship  with  such  goods,  for  I had  been 
successful  in  England  in  my  little  speculations,  and  I 
arrived  at  Coruna.  Here  at  once  my  vexations  began: 
disappointment  followed  disappointment.  It  was  with 
the  utmost  difficulty  that  I could  obtain  permission  to  land 
my  goods,  and  this  only  at  a considerable  sacrifice  in 
bribes  and  the  like;  and  when  I had  established  myself 
here,  I found  that  the  place  was  one  of  no  trade,  and  that 
my  goods  went  off  very  slowly,  and  scarcely  at  prime 
cost.  I wished  to  remove  to  another  place,  but  was  in- 


244 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


formed  that,  in  that  case,  I must  leave  my  goods  behind, 
unless  I offered  fresh  bribes,  which  would  have  ruined  me; 
and  in  this  way  I have  gone  on  for  fourteen  years,  selling 
scarcely  enough  to  pay  for  my  shop  and  to  support  myself. 
And  so  I shall  doubtless  continue  till  I die,  or  my  goods  are 
exhausted.  In  an  evil  day  I left  England  and  came  to 
Spain. 

Myself. — Did  you  not  say  that  you  had  a countryman 
at  St.  James? 

Luigi. — Yes,  a poor  honest  fellow,  who,  like  myself, 
by  some  strange  chance  found  his  way  to  Galicia.  I some- 
times contrive  to  send  him  a few  goods,  which  he  sells 
at  St.  James  at  a greater  profit  than  I can  here.  He  is  a 
happy  fellow,  for  he  has  never  been  in  England,  and  knows 
not  the  difference  between  the  two  countries.  Oh,  the 
green  English  hedgerows!  and  the  alehouses!  and,  what 
is  much  more,  the  fair  dealing  and  security.  I have 
travelled  all  over  England  and  never  met  with  ill  usage, 
except  once  down  in  the  north  amongst  the  Papists,  upon 
my  telling  them  to  leave  all  their  mummeries  and  go  to 
the  parish  church  as  I did,  and  as  all  my  countrymen  in 
England  did;  for  know  one  thing,  Signor  Giorgio,  not  one 
of  us  who  have  lived  in  England,  whether  Piedmontese 
or  men  of  Como,  but  wished  well  to  the  Protestant  religion, 
if  he  had  not  actually  become  a member  of  it. 

Myself. — What  do  you  propose  to  do  at  present,  Luigi? 
What  are  your  prospects? 

Luigi. — My  prospects  are  a blank,  Giorgio;  my  pros- 
pects are  a blank.  I propose  nothing  but  to  die  in  Coruna, 
perhaps  in  the  hospital,  if  they  will  admit  me.  Years 
ago  I thought  of  fleeing,  even  if  I left  all  behind  me,  and 
either  returning  to  England,  or  betaking  myself  to  America; 
but  it  is  too  late  now,  Giorgio,  it  is  too  late.  When  I first 
lost  all  hope,  I took  to  drinking,  to  which  I was  never 
before  inclined,  and  I am  now  what  I suppose  you  see. 

“ There  is  hope  in  the  Gospel/’  said  I,  “ even  for  you. 
I will  send  you  one.” 

There  is  a small  battery  of  the  old  town  which  fronts 
the  east,  and  whose  wall  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  the 
bay.  It  is  a sweet  spot,  and  the  prospect  which  opens 
from  it  is  extensive.  The  battery  itself  may  be  about 
eighty  yards  square;  some  young  trees  are  springing  up 
about  it,  and  it  is  rather  a favourite  resort  of  the  people  of 
Coruna. 

In  the  centre  of  this  battery  stands  the  tomb  of  Moore, 
built  by  the  chivalrous  French,  in  commemoration  of  the 
fall  of  their  heroic  antagonist.  It  is  oblong  and  surmounted 
by  a slab,  and  on  either  side  bears  one  of  the  simple  and 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


245 


sublime  epitaphs  for  which  our  rivals  are  celebrated,  and 
which  stand  in  such  powerful  contrast  with  the  bloated 
and  bombastic  inscriptions  which  deform  the  walls  of 
Westminster  Abbey: 

" JOHN  MOORE, 

LEADER  OF  THE  ENGLISH  ARMIES, 

SLAIN  IN  BATTLE, 

1809.” 

The  tomb  itself  is  of  marble,  and  around  it  is  a quad- 
rangular wall,  breast  high,  of  rough  Gallegan  granite; 
close  to  each  corner  rises  from  the  earth  the  breech  of 
an  immense  brass  cannon,  intended  to  keep  the  wall  com- 
pact and  close.  These  outer  erections  are,  however,  not 
the  work  of  the  French,  but  of  the  English  government. 

Yes,  there  lies  the  hero,  almost  within  sight  of  the 
glorious  hill  where  he  turned  upon  his  pursuers  like  a 
lion  at  bay  and  terminated  his  career.  Many  acquire 
immortality  without  seeking  it,  and  die  before  its  first 
ray  has  gilded  their  name;  of  these  was  Moore.  The 
harassed  general,  flying  through  Castile  with  his  dispirited 
troops  before  a fierce  and  terrible  enemy,  little  dreamed 
that  he  was  on  the  point  of  attaining  that  for  which  many 
a better,  greater,  though  certainly  not  braver  man,  had 
sighed  in  vain.  His  very  misfortunes  were  the  means 
which  secured  him  immortal  fame;  his  disastrous  route, 
bloody  death,  and  finally  his  tomb  on  a foreign  strand, 
far  from  kin  and  friends.  There  is  scarcely  a Spaniard 
but  has  heard  of  this  tomb,  and  speaks  of  it  with  a strange 
kind  of  awe.  Immense  treasures  are  said  to  have  been 
buried  with  the  heretic  general,  though  for  what  purpose 
no  one  pretends  to  guess.  The  demons  of  the  clouds,  if 
we  may  trust  the  Gallegans,  followed  the  English  in  their 
flight,  and  assailed  them  with  water-spouts  as  they  toiled 
up  the  steep  winding  paths  of  Fuencebadon;  whilst  legends 
the  most  wild  are  related  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
stout  soldier  fell.  Yes,  even  in  Spain,  immortality  has 
already  crowned  the  head  of  Moore; — Spain,  the  land 
of  oblivion,  where  the  Guadalete*  flows. 


The  ancient  Lethe. 


246 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XXVI I 

Compostella — Rey  Romero — The  Treasnre-seeker — Hopeful  Project — 

The  Church  of  Refuge  — Hidden  Riches— -The  Canon  — Spirit  of 

Localism — The  Leper — Bones  of  St.  James. 

At  the  commencement  of  August,  I found  myself  at  St. 
James  of  Compostella.  To  this  place  I travelled  from 
Coruna  with  the  courier  or  weekly  post,  who  was  escorted 
by  a strong  party  of  soldiers,  in  consequence  of  the 
distracted  state  of  the  country,  which  was  overrun  with 
banditti.  From  Coruna  to  St.  James,  the  distance  is 
but  ten  leagues;  the  journey,  however,  endured  for  a day 
and  a half.  It  was  a pleasant  one,  through  a most  beautiful 
country,  with  a rich  variety  of  hill  and  dale;  the  road  was 
in  many  places  shaded  with  various  kinds  of  trees  clad  in 
most  luxuriant  foliage.  Hundreds  of  travellers,  both 
on  foot  and  on  horseback,  availed  themselves  of  the  security 
which  the  escort  afforded:  the  dread  of  banditti  was  strong. 
During  the  journey  two  or  three  alarms  were  given;  we, 
however,  reached  Saint  James  without  having  been  attacked. 

Saint  James  stands  on  a pleasant  level  amidst  moun- 
tains: the  most  extraordinary  of  these  is  a conical  hill, 
called  the  Pico  Sacro,  or  Sacred  Peak,  connected  with 
which  are  many  wonderful  legends.  A beautiful  old  town 
is  Saint  James,  containing  about  twenty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. Time  has  been  when,  with  the  single  exception  of 
Rome,  it  was  the  most  celebrated  resort  of  pilgrims  in  the 
world;  its  cathedral  being  said  to  contain  the  bones  of 
Saint  James  the  elder,  the  child  of  the  thunder,  who, 
according  to  the  legend  of  the  Romish  church,  first  preached 
the  Gospel  in  Spain.  Its  glory,  however,  as  a place  of  pil- 
grimage is  rapidly  passing  away. 

The  cathedral,  though  a work  of  various  periods,  and 
exhibiting  various  styles  of  architecture,  is  a majestic 
venerable  pile,  in  every  respect  calculated  to  excite  awe 
and  admiration;  indeed,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  walk 
its  long  dusky  aisles,  and  hear  the  solemn  music  and  the 
noble  chanting,  and  inhale  the  incense  of  the  mighty 
censers,  which  are  at  times  swung  so  high  by  machinery 
as  to  smite  the  vaulted  roof,  whilst  gigantic  tapers  glitter 
here  and  there  amongst  the  gloom,  from  the  shrine  of  many 
a saint,  before  which  the  worshippers  are  kneeling,  breathing 
forth  their  prayers  and  petitions  for  help,  love,  and  mercy, 
and  entertain  a doubt  that  we  are  treading  the  floor  of  a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


247 


house  where  God  delighteth  to  dwell.  Yet  the  Lord  is 
distant  from  that  house ; he  hears  not,  he  sees  not,  or  if  he 
do,  it  is  with  anger.  What  availeth  that  solemn  music, 
that  noble  chanting,  that  incense  of  sweet  savour?  What 
availeth  kneeling  before  that  grand  altar  of  silver,  sur- 
mounted by  that  figure  with  its  silver  hat  and  breast-plate, 
the  emblem  of  one  who,  though  an  apostle  and  confessor, 
was  at  best  an  unprofitable  servant?  What  availeth 
hoping  for  remission  of  sin  by  trusting  in  the  merits  of  one 
who  possessed  none,  or  by  paying  homage  to  others  who 
were  born  and  nurtured  in  sin,  and  who  alone,  by  the 
exercise  of  a lively  faith  granted  from  above,  could  hope 
to  preserve  themselves  from  the  wrath  of  the  Almighty? 

Rise  from  your  knees,  ye  children  of  Compostella,  or  if 
ye  bend,  let  it  be  to  the  Almighty  alone,  and  no  longer 
on  the  eve  of  your  patron’s  day  address  him  in  the  following 
strain,  however  sublime  it  may  sound: 

“ Thou  shield  of  that  faith  which  in  Spain  we  revere, 

Thou  scourge  of  each  foeman  who  dares  to  draw  near ; 
Whom  the  Son  of  that  God  who  the  elements  tames, 

Called  child  of  the  thunder,  immortal  Saint  James  ! 

From  the  blessed  asylum  of  glory  intense, 

Upon  us  thy  sovereign  influence  dispense  ; 

And  list  to  the  praises  our  gratitude  aims 
To  offer  up  worthily,  mighty  Saint  James. 

“ To  thee  fervent  thanks  Spain  shall  ever  outpour  ; 

In  thy  name  though  she  glory,  she  glories  yet  more 
In  thy  thrice-hallowed  corse,  which  the  sanctuary  claims 
Of  high  Compostella,  O,  blessed  Saint  James. 

“ When  heathen  impiety,  loathsome  and  dread, 

With  a chaos  of  darkness  our  Spain  overspread, 

Thou  wast  the  first  light  which  dispell’d  with  its  flames 
The  hell-born  obscurity,  glorious  Saint  James  ! 

“ And  when  terrible  wars  had  nigh  wasted  our  force, 

All  bright  ’midst  the  battle  we  saw  thee  on  horse, 

Fierce  scattering  the  hosts,  whom  their  fury  proclaims 
To  be  warriors  of  Islam,  victorious  Saint  James. 

“ Beneath  thy  direction,  stretch’d  prone  at  thy  feet, 

With  hearts  low  and  humble,  this  day  we  intreat 
Thou  wilt  strengthen  the  hope  which  enlivens  our  frames, 
The  hope  of  thy  favour  and  presence,  Saint  James. 

“ Then  praise  to  the  Son  and  the  Father  above, 

And  to  that  Holy  Spirit  which  springs  from  their  love  ; 

To  that  bright  emanation  whose  vividness  shames 
The  sun’s  burst  of  splendour,  and  praise  to  Saint  James.” 


248 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


At  Saint  James  I met  with  a kind  and  cordial  coadjutor 
in  my  biblical  labours  in  the  bookseller  of  the  place,  Rey 
Romero,  a man  of  about  sixty.  This  excellent  individual, 
who  was  both  wealthy  and  respected,  took  up  the  matter 
with  an  enthusiasm  which  doubtless  emanated  from  on 
high,  losing  no  opportunity  of  recommending  my  book 
to  those  who  entered  his  shop,  which  was  in  the  Azabacheria, 
and  was  a very  splendid  and  commodious  establishment. 
In  many  instances,  when  the  peasants  of  the  neighbourhood 
came  with  an  intention  of  purchasing  some  of  the  foolish 
popular  story-books  of  Spain,  he  persuaded  them  to  carry 
home  Testaments  instead,  assuring  them  that  the  sacred 
volume  was  a better,  more  instructive,  and  even  far  more 
entertaining  book  than  those  they  came  in  quest  of.  He 
speedily  conceived  a great  fancy  for  me,  and  regularly 
came  to  visit  me  every  evening  at  my  posada,  and  accom- 
panied me  in  my  walks  about  the  town  and  the  environs. 
He  was  a man  of  considerable  information,  and  though 
of  much  simplicity,  possessed  a kind  of  good-natured 
humour  which  was  frequently  highly  diverting. 

I was  walking  late  one  night  alone  in  the  Alameda 
of  Saint  James,  considering  in  what  direction  I should 
next  bend  my  course,  for  I had  been  already  ten  days  in 
this  place;  the  moon  was  shining  gloriously,  and  illumined 
every  object  around  to  a considerable  distance.  The 
Alameda  was  quite  deserted;  everybody,  with  the  exception 
of  myself,  having  for  some  time  retired.  I sat  down  on  a 
bench  and  continued  my  reflections,  which  were  suddenly 
interrupted  by  a heavy  stumping  sound.  Turning  my 
eyes  in  the  direction  from  which  it  proceeded,  I perceived 
what  at  first  appeared  a shapeless  bulk  slowly  advancing: 
nearer  and  nearer  it  drew,  and  I could  now  distinguish  the 
outline  of  a man  dressed  in  coarse  brown  garments,  a kind 
of  Andalusian  hat,  and  using  as  a staff  the  long  peeled 
branch  of  a tree.  He  had  now  arrived  opposite  the  bench 
where  I was  seated,  when,  stopping,  he  took  off  his  hat 
and  demanded  charity  in  uncouth  tones  and  in  a strange 
jargon,  which  had  some  resemblance  to  the  Catalan.  The 
moon  shone  on  grey  locks  and  on  a ruddy  weather-beaten 
countenance  which  I at  once  recognized:  “ Benedict  Mol,” 
said  I,  “ is  it  possible  that  I see  you  at  Compostella?  ” 

“ Och,  mein  Gott,  es  ist  der  Herr!  ” replied  Benedict. 
“ Och,  what  good  fortune,  that  the  Herr  is  the  first  person 
I meet  at  Compostella.” 

Myself . — I can  scarcely  believe  my  eyes.  Do  you 
mean  to  say  that  you  have  just  arrived  at  this  place? 

Benedict. — Ow  yes,  I am  this  moment  arrived.  I have 
walked  all  the  long  way  from  Madrid. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  249 

Myself. — What  motive  could  possibly  bring  you  such 
a distance? 

Benedict. — Ow,  I am  come  for  the  schatz — the  treasure. 
I told  you  at  Madrid  that  I was  coming;  and  now  I have 
met  you  here,  I have  no  doubt  that  I shall  find  it,  the 
schatz. 

Myself. — In  what  manner  did  you  support  your  self 
by  the  way? 

Benedict. — Ow,  I begged,  I bettled,  and  so  contrived 
to  pick  up  some  cuartos;  and  when  I reached  Toro,  I 
worked  at  my  trade  of  soap-making  for  a time,  till  the 
people  said  I knew  nothing  about  it,  and  drove  me  out  of 
the  town.  So  I went  on  and  begged  and  bettled  till  I 
arrived  at  Orense,  which  is  in  this  country  of  Galicia.  Ow, 
I do  not  like  this  country  of  Galicia  at  all. 

Myself. — Why  not? 

Benedict. — Why!  because  here  they  all  beg  and  bettle, 
and  have  scarce  anything  for  themselves,  much  less  for 
me  whom  they  know  to  be  a foreign  man.  O the  misery 
of  Galicia.  When  I arrive  at  night  at  one  of  their  pigsties, 
which  they  call  posadas,  and  ask  for  bread  to  eat  in  the 
name  of  God,  and  straw  to  lie  down  in,  they  curse  me, 
and  say  there  is  neither  bread  nor  straw  in  Galicia;  and 
sure  enough,  since  I have  been  here  I have  seen  neither, 
only  something  that  they  call  broa,  and  a kind  of  reedy 
rubbish  with  which  they  litter  the  horses:  all  my  bones  are 
sore  since  I entered  Galicia. 

Myself. — And  yet  you  have  come  to  this  country, 
which  you  call  so  miserable,  in  search  of  treasure? 

Benedict. — Ow  yaw,  but  the  schatz  is  buried;  it  is 
not  above  ground;  there  is  no  money  above  ground  in 
Galicia.  I must  dig  it  up;  and  when  I have  dug  it  up 
I will  purchase  a coach  with  six  mules,  and  ride  out  of 
Galicia  to  Lucerne;  and  if  the  Herr  pleases  to  go  with  me, 
he  shall  be  welcome  to  go  with  me  and  the  schatz. 

Myself. — I am  afraid  that  you  have  come  on  a desperate 
errand.  What  do  you  propose  to  do?  Have  you  any 
money? 

Benedict. — Not  a cuart;  but  I do  not  care  now  I have 
arrived  at  Saint  James.  The  schatz  is  nigh;  and  I have, 
moreover,  seen  you,  which  is  a good  sign;  it  tells  me  that 
the  schatz  is  still  here.  I shall  go  to  the  best  posada  in 
the  place,  and  live  like  a duke  till  I have  an  opportunity 
of  digging  up  the  schatz,  when  I will  pay  all  scores. 

“ Do  nothing  of  the  kind,”  I replied;  “ find  out  some 
place  in  which  to  sleep,  and  endeavour  to  seek  some  em- 
ployment. In  the  mean  time,  here  is  a trifle  with  which 
to  support  yourself;  but  as  for  the  treasure  which  yon 


250 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


have  come  to  seek,  I believe  it  only  exists  in  your  own 
imagination.”  I gave  him  a dollar  and  departed. 

I have  never  enjoyed  more  charming  walks  than  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Saint  James.  In  these  I was  almost 
invariably  accompanied  by  my  friend  the  good  old  book- 
seller. The  streams  are  numerous,  and  along  their  wooded 
banks  we  were  in  the  habit  of  straying  and  enjoying  the 
delicious  summer  evenings  of  this  part  of  Spain.  Religion 
generally  formed  the  topic  of  our  conversation,  but  we  not 
unfrequently  talked  of  the  foreign  lands  which  I had 
visited,  and  at  other  times  of  matters  which  related  par- 
ticularly to  my  companion.  “ We  booksellers  of  Spain,” 
said  he,  “ are  all  liberals;  we  are  no  friends  to  the  monkish 
system.  How  indeed  should  we  be  friends  to  it?  It 
fosters  darkness,  whilst  we  live  by  disseminating  light. 
We  love  our  profession,  and  have  all  more  or  less  suffered 
for  it;  many  of  us,  in  the  times  of  terror,  were  hanged  for 
selling  an  innocent  translation  from  the  French  or  English. 
Shortly  after  the  Constitution  was  put  down  by  Angouleme 
and  the  French  bayonets,  I was  obliged  to  flee  from  Saint 
James  and  take  refuge  in  the  wildest  part  of  Galicia,  near 
Corcuvion.  Had  I not  possessed  good  friends,  I should 
not  have  been  alive  now;  as  it  was,  it  cost  me  a considerable 
sum  of  money  to  arrange  matters.  Whilst  I was  away, 
my  shop  was  in  charge  of  the  ecclesiastical  officers.  They 
frequently  told  my  wife  that  I ought  to  be  burnt  for  the 
books  which  I had  sold.  Thanks  be  to  God,  those  times 
are  past,  and  I hope  they  will  never  return.” 

Once,  as  we  were  walking  through  the  streets  of  Saint 
James,  he  stopped  before  a church  and  looked  at  it 
attentively.  As  there  was  nothing  remarkable  in  the 
appearance  of  this  edifice,  I asked  him  what  motive  he 
had  for  taking  such  notice  of  it.  “ In  the  days  of  the 
friars,”  said  he,  “ this  church  was  one  of  refuge,  to  which 
if  the  worst  criminals  escaped,  they  were  safe.  All  were 
protected  there  save  the  negros,  as  they  called  us  liberals.” 
“ Even  murderers,  I suppose?  ” said  I.  “ Murderers  1 ” he 
answered,  “ far  worse  criminals  than  they.  By  the  by, 
I have  heard  that  you  English  entertain  the  utmost  abhor- 
rence of  murder.  Do  you  in  reality  consider  it  a crime  of 
very  great  magnitude?  ” “ How  should  we  not,”  I replied; 

“for  every  other  crime  some  reparation  can  be  made; 
but  if  we  take  away  life,  we  take  away  all.  A ray  of  hope 
with  respect  to  this  world  may  occasionally  enliven  the 
bosom  of  any  other  criminal,  but  how  can  the  murderer 
hope?  ” “ The  friars  were  of  another  way  of  thinking,” 

replied  the  old  man;  “they  always  looked  upon  murder 
as  a friolera;  but  not  so  the  crime  of  marrying  your  first 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


251 


cousin  without  dispensation,  for  which,  if  we  believe 
them,  there  is  scarcely  any  atonement  either  in  this  world 
or  the  next.” 

Two  or  three  days  after  this,  as  we  were  seated  in  my 
apartment  in  the  posada,  engaged  in  conversation,  the  door 
was  opened  by  Antonio,  who,  with  a smile  on  his  counten- 
ance, said  that  there  was  a foreign  gentleman  below,  who 
desired  to  speak  with  me.  “ Show  him  up,”  I replied; 
whereupon  almost  instantly  appeared  Benedict  Mol. 

“ This  is  a most  extraordinary  person,”  said  I to  the 
bookseller.  “ You  Galicians,  in  general,  leave  your  country 
in  quest  of  money;  he,  on  the  contrary,  is  come  hither 
to  find  some.” 

Reg  Romero. — And  he  is  right.  Galicia  is  by  nature 
the  richest  province  in  Spain,  but  the  inhabitants  are 
very  stupid,  and  know  not  how  to  turn  the  blessings  which 
surround  them  to  any  account;  but  as  a proof  of  what 
may  be  made  out  of  Galicia,  see  how  rich  the  Catalans 
become  who  have  settled  down  here  and  formed  establish- 
ments. There  are  riches  all  around  us,  upon  the  earth 
and  in  the  earth. 

Benedict . — Ow  yaw,  in  the  earth,  that  is  what  I say. 
There  is  much  more  treasure  below  the  earth  than  above 
it. 

Myself. — Since  I last  saw  you,  have  you  discovered 
the  place  in  which  you  say  the  treasure  is  deposited? 

Benedict. — O yes,  I know  all  about  it  now.  It  is  buried 
*neath  the  sacristy  in  the  church  of  San  Roque. 

Myself. — How  have  you  been  able  to  make  that  dis- 
covery? 

Benedict. — I will  tell  you:  the  day  after  my  arrival 
I walked  about  all  the  city  in  quest  of  the  church,  but 
could  find  none  which  at  all  answered  to  the  signs  which 
my  comrade  who  died  in  the  hospital  gave  me.  I entered 
several,  and  looked  about,  but  all  in  vain;  I could  not  find 
the  place  which  I had  in  my  mind's  eye.  At  last  the  people 
with  whom  I lodge,  and  to  whom  I told  my  business, 
advised  me  to  send  for  a meiga. 

Myself. — A meiga!  What  is  that? 

Benedict. — Ow!  a haxweib,  a witch;  the  Gallegos 
call  them  so  in  their  jargon,  of  which  I can  scarcely  under- 
stand a word.  So  I consented,  and  they  sent  for  the  meiga. 
Och  ! what  a weib  is  that  meiga!  I never  saw  such  a 
woman;  she  is  as  large  as  myself,  and  has  a face  as  round 
and  red  as  the  sun.  She  asked  me  a great  many  questions 
in  her  Gallegan,  and  when  I had  told  her  all  she  wanted  to 
know,  she  pulled  out  a pack  of  cards  and  laid  them  on 
the  table  in  a particular  manner,  and  then  she  said  that 


252 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  treasure  was  in  the  church  of  San  Roque;  and  sure 
enough,  when  I went  to  that  church,  it  answered  in  every 
respect  to  the  signs  of  my  comrade  who  died  in  the  hospital. 
O she  is  a powerful  hax,  that  meiga;  she  is  well  known 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  has  done  much  harm  to  the 
cattle.  I gave  her  half  the  dollar  I had  from  you  for  her 
trouble. 

Myself . — Then  you  acted  like  a simpleton;  she  has 
grossly  deceived  you.  But  even  suppose  that  the  treasure 
is  really  deposited  in  the  church  you  mention,  it  is  not 
probable  that  you  will  be  permitted  to  remove  the  floor 
of  the  sacristy  to  search  for  it. 

j Benedict. — Ow,  the  matter  is  already  well  advanced. 
Yesterday  I went  to  one  of  the  canons  to  confess  myself 
and  to  receive  absolution  and  benediction;  not  that  I 
regard  these  things  much,  but  I thought  this  would  be 
the  best  means  of  broaching  the  matter,  so  I confessed 
myself,  and  then  I spoke  of  my  travels  to  the  canon,  and 
at  last  I told  him  of  the  treasure,  and  proposed  that  if 
he  assisted  me  we  should  share  it  between  us.  Ow,  I 
wish  you  had  seen  him;  he  entered  at  once  into  the  affair, 
and  said  that  it  might  turn  out  a very  profitable  specula- 
tion: and  he  shook  me  by  the  hand,  and  said  that  I was 
an  honest  Swiss  and  a good  Catholic.  And  I then  proposed 
that  he  should  take  me  into  his  house  and  keep  me  there 
till  we  had  an  opportunity  of  digging  up  the  treasure 
together.  This  he  refused  to  do. 

Rey  Romero . — Of  that  I have  no  doubt:  trust  one  of 
our  canons  for  not  committing  himself  so  far  until  he 
sees  very  good  reason.  These  tales  of  treasure  are  at 
present  rather  too  stale:  we  have  heard  of  them  ever 

since  the  time  of  the  Moors. 

Benedict . — He  advised  me  to  go  to  the  Captain  General 
and  obtain  permission  to  make  excavations,  in  which 
case  he  promised  to  assist  me  to  the  utmost  of  his  power. 

Thereupon  the  Swiss  departed,  and  I neither  saw  nor 
heard  anything  farther  of  him  during  the  time  that  I 
continued  at  Saint  James. 

The  bookseller  was  never  weary  of  showing  me  about 
his  native  town,  of  which  he  was  enthusiastically  fond. 
Indeed,  I have  never  seen  the  spirit  of  localism,  which 
is  so  prevalent  throughout  Spain,  more  strong  than  at 
Saint  James.  If  their  town  did  but  flourish,  the  Santiagians 
seemed  to  care  but  little  if  all  others  in  Galicia  perished. 
Their  antipathy  to  the  town  of  Coruna  was  unbounded, 
and  this  feeling  had  of  late  been  not  a little  increased  from 
the  circumstance  that  the  seat  of  the  provincial  government 
had  been  removed  from  Saint  James  to  Coruna.  Whether 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


253 


this  change  was  advisable  or  not,  it  is  not  for  me,  who  am 
a foreigner,  to  say;  my  private  opinion,  however,  is  by 
no  means  favourable  to  the  alteration.  Saint  James  is  one 
of  the  most  central  towns  in  Galicia,  with  large  and  populous 
communities  on  every  side  of  it,  whereas  Coruna  stands 
in  a corner,  at  a considerable  distance  from  the  rest.  “ It 
is  a pity  that  the  vecinos  of  Coruna  cannot  contrive  to  steal 
away  from  us  our  cathedral,  even  as  they  have  done  our 
government,”  said  a Santiagian;  “ then,  indeed,  they 
would  be  able  to  cut  some  figure.  As  it  is,  they  have  not 
a church  fit  to  say  mass  in.”  “ A great  pity,  too,  that 
they  cannot  remove  our  hospital,”  would  another  exclaim; 
“ as  it  is,  they  are  obliged  to  send  us  their  sick,  poor 
wretches.  I always  think  that  the  sick  of  Coruna  have 
more  ill-favoured  countenances  than  those  from  other 
places;  but  what  good  can  come  from  Coruna?  ” 

Accompanied  by  the  bookseller,  I visited  this  hospital, 
in  which,  however,  I did  not  remain  long;  the  wretched- 
ness and  uncleanliness  which  I observed  speedily  driving 
me  away.  Saint  James,  indeed,  is  the  grand  lazar-house 
for  all  the  rest  of  Galicia,  which  accounts  for  the  prodigious 
number  of  horrible  objects  to  be  seen  in  its  streets,  who 
have  for  the  most  part  arrived  in  the  hope  of  procuring 
medical  assistance,  which,  from  what  I could  learn,  is 
very  scantily  and  inefficiently  administered.  Amongst 
these  unhappy  wretches  I occasionally  observed  the 
terrible  leper,  and  instantly  fled  from  him  with  a “ God 
help  thee,”  as  if  I had  been  a Jew  of  old.  Galicia  is  the 
only  province  of  Spain  where  cases  of  leprosy  are  still 
frequent;  a convincing  proof  this,  that  the  disease  is  the 
result  of  foul  feeding,  and  an  inattention  to  cleanliness, 
as  the  Gallegans,  with  regard  to  the  comforts  of  life  and 
civilized  habits,  are  confessedly  far  behind  all  the  other 
natives  of  Spain. 

“ Besides  a general  hospital  we  have  likewise  a leper- 
house,”  said  the  bookseller.  “ Shall  I show  it  you?  We 
have  everything  at  Saint  James.  There  is  nothing  lacking; 
the  very  leper  finds  an  inn  here.”  “ I have  no  objection 
to  your  showing  me  the  house,”  I replied,  “ but  it  must 
be  at  a distance,  for  enter  it  I will  not.”  Thereupon  he 
conducted  me  down  the  road  which  leads  towards  Padron 
and  Vigo,  and  pointing  to  two  or  three  huts,  exclaimed 
“ That  is  our  leper-house.”  “ It  appears  a miserable 
place,”  I replied:  “ what  accommodation  may  there  be 

for  the  patients,  and  who  attends  to  their  wants?  ” “ They 

are  left  to  themselves,”  answered  the  bookseller,  “ and 
probably  sometimes  perish  from  neglect:  the  place  at  one 
time  was  endowed  and  had  rents  which  were  appropriated 


254 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


to  its  support,  but  even  these  have  been  sequestered  during 
the  late  troubles.  At  present,  the  least  unclean  of  the 
lepers  generally  takes  his  station  by  the  road  side,  and  begs 
for  the  rest.  See  there  he  is  now.” 

And  sure  enough  the  leper  in  his  shining  scales,  and 
half  naked,  was  seated  beneath  a ruined  wall.  We  dropped 
money  into  the  hat  of  the  unhappy  being,  and  passed  on. 

“ A bad  disorder  that,”  said  my  friend.  “ I confess 
that  I,  who  have  seen  so  many  of  them,  am  by  no  means 
fond  of  the  company  of  lepers.  Indeed,  I wish  that  they 
would  never  enter  my  shop,  as  they  occasionally  do  to 
beg.  Nothing  is  more  infectious,  as  I have  heard,  than 
leprosy:  there  is  one  very  virulent  species,  however, 

which  is  particularly  dreaded  here,  the  elephantine:  those 
who  die  of  it  should,  according  to  law,  be  burnt,  and  their 
ashes  scattered  to  the  winds:  for  if  the  body  of  such  a 
leper  be  interred  in  the  field  of  the  dead,  the  disorder  is 
forthwith  communicated  to  all  the  corses  even  below  the 
earth.  Such,  at  least,  is  our  idea  in  these  parts.  Lawsuits 
are  at  present  pending  from  the  circumstance  of  elephantides 
having  been  buried  with  the  other  dead.  Sad  is  leprosy 
in  all  its  forms,  but  most  so  when  elephantine.” 

“ Talking  of  corses,”  said  I,  “ do  you  believe  that 
the  bones  of  St.  James  are  veritably  interred  at  Cornpos- 
tella?  ” 

“ What  can  I say,”  replied  the  old  man;  “ you  know 
as  much  of  the  matter  as  myself.  Beneath  the  high  altar 
is  a large  stone  slab  or  lid,  which  is  said  to  cover  the  mouth 
of  a profound  well,  at  the  bottom  of  which  it  is  believed 
that  the  bones  of  the  saint  are  interred;  though  why 
they  should  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  a well,  is  a mystery 
which  I cannot  fathom.  One  of  the  officers  of  the  church 
told  me  that  at  one  time  he  and  another  kept  watch  in 
the  church  during  the  night,  one  of  the  chapels  having 
shortly  before  been  broken  open  and  a sacrilege  committed. 
At  the  dead  of  night,  finding  the  time  hang  heavy  on  their 
hands,  they  took  a crowbar  and  removed  the  slab  and 
looked  down  into  the  abyss  below;  it  was  dark  as  the 
grave;  whereupon  they  affixed  a weight  to  the  end  of  a 
long  rope  and  lowered  it  down.  At  a very  great  depth 
it  seemed  to  strike  against  something  dull  and  solid  like 
lead:  they  supposed  it  might  be  a coffin;  perhaps  it  was, 
but  whose  is  the  question.” 


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255 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

Skippers  of  Padron — Caldas  de  los  Reyes — Pontevedra — The  Notary 
Public — Insane  Barber — An  Introduction — Gallegan  Language — 
Afternoon  Ride — Vigo — The  Stranger — Jews  of  the  Desert — Bay  of 
Yigo — Sudden  Interruption — The  Governor. 

After  a stay  of  about  a fortnight  at  Saint  James,  we 
again  mounted  our  horses  and  proceeded  in  the  direction 
of  Vigo.  As  we  did  not  leave  Saint  James  till  late  in  the 
afternoon,  we  travelled  that  day  no  farther  than  Padron, 
a distance  of  only  three  leagues.  This  place  is  a small  port, 
situate  at  the  extremity  of  a firth  which  communicates 
with  the  sea.  It  is  called  for  brevity’s  sake,  Padron,  but 
its  proper  appellation  is  Villa  del  Padron,  or  the  town  of  the 
patron  saint;  it  having  been,  according  to  the  legend,  the 
principal  residence  of  Saint  James  during  his  stay  in  Galicia. 
By  the  Romans  it  was  termed  Iria  Flavia.  It  is  a flourishing 
little  town,  and  carries  on  rather  an  extensive  commerce, 
some  of  its  tiny  barks  occasionally  finding  their  way  across  the 
Bay  of  Biscay,  and  even  so  far  as  the  Thames  and  London. 

There  is  a curious  anecdote  connected  with  the  skippers 
of  Padron,  which  can  scarcely  be  considered  as  out  of 
place  here,  as  it  relates  to  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures. 
I was  one  day  in  the  shop  of  my  friend  the  bookseller  at 
Saint  James,  when  a stout  good-humoured-looking  priest 
entered.  He  took  up  one  of  my  Testaments,  and  forthwith 
burst  into  a violent  fit  of  laughter.  “ What  is  the  matter?  ” 
demanded  the  bookseller.  “ The  sight  of  this  book  reminds 
me  of  a circumstance  replied  the  other,  “ about  twenty 
years  ago,  when  the  English  first  took  it  into  their  heads 
to  be  very  zealous  in  converting  us  Spaniards  to  their  own 
way  of  thinking,  they  distributed  a great  number  of  books 
of  this  kind  amongst  the  Spaniards  who  chanced  to  be  in 
London;  some  of  them  fell  into  the  hands  of  certain  skippers 
of  Padron,  and  these  good  folks,  on  their  return  to  Galicia, 
were  observed  to  have  become  on  a sudden  exceedingly 
opinionated  and  fond  of  dispute.  It  was  scarcely  possible 
to  make  an  assertion  in  their  hearing  without  receiving  a 
flat  contradiction,  especially  when  religious  subjects  were 
brought  on  the  carpet.  ‘ It  is  false/  they  would  say; 
‘ Saint  Paul,  in  such  a chapter  and  in  such  a verse,  says 
exactly  the  contrary/  * What  can  you  know  concerning 
what  Saint  Paul  or  any  other  saint  has  written?  ’ the 
priests  would  ask  them.  ‘ Much  more  than  you  think/ 
they  replied;  ‘ we  are  no  longer  to  be  kept  in  darkness 


256 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  ignorance  respecting  these  matters: , and  then  they 
would  produce  their  books  and  read  paragraphs,  making 
such  comments  that  every  person  was  scandalized;  they 
cared  nothing  about  the  Pope,  and  even  spoke  with  irrever- 
ence of  the  bones  of  Saint  James.  However,  the  matter 
was  soon  bruited  about,  and  a commission  was  dispatched 
from  our  see  to  collect  the  books  and  burn  them.  This 
was  effected,  and  the  skippers  were  either  punished  or  repri- 
manded, since  which  I have  heard  nothing  more  of  them. 

I could  not  forbear  laughing  when  I saw  these  books;  they 
instantly  brought  to  my  mind  the  skippers  of  Padron  and 
their  religious  disputations.” 

Our  next  day’s  journey  brought  us  to  Pontevedra. 
As  there  was  no  talk  of  robbers  in  these  parts,  we  travelled 
without  any  escort  and  alone.  The  road  was  beautiful 
and  picturesque,  though  somewhat  solitary,  especially 
after  we  had  left  behind  us  the  small  town  of  Caldas.  There 
is  more  than  one  place  of  this  name  in  Spain;  the  one 
of  which  I am  speaking  is  distinguished  from  the  rest  by 
being  called  Caldas  de  los  Reyes,  or  the  warm  baths  of  the 
kings.  It  will  not  be  amiss  to  observe  that  the  Spanish 
Caldas  is  synonymous  with  the  Moorish  Alhama , a word 
of  frequent  occurrence  both  in  Spanish  and  African  topo- 
graphy. Caldas  seemed  by  no  means  undeserving  of  its 
name:  it  stands  on  a confluence  of  springs,  and  the  place 
when  we  arrived  was  crowded  with  people  who  had  come 
to  enjoy  the  benefit  of  the  waters.  In  the  course  of  my 
travels  I have  observed  that  wherever  warm  springs  are 
found,  vestiges  of  volcanoes  are  sure  to  be  nigh;  the  smooth 
black  precipice,  the  divided  mountain,  or  huge  rocks 
standing  by  themselves  on  the  plain  or  on  the  hill  side, 
as  if  Titans  had  been  playing  at  bowls.  This  last  feature 
occurs  near  Caldas  de  los  Reyes,  the  side  of  the  mountain 
which  overhangs  it  in  the  direction  of  the  south  being 
covered  with  immense  granite  stones,  apparently  at  some 
ancient  period  eructed  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  From 
Caldas  to  Pontevedra  the  route  was  hilly  and  fatiguing, 
the  heat  was  intense,  and  those  clouds  of  flies,  which 
constitute  one  of  the  pests  of  Galicia,  annoyed  our  horses 
to  such  a degree  that  we  were  obliged  to  cut  down  branches 
from  the  trees  to  protect  their  heads  and  necks  from  the 
tormenting  stings  of  these  bloodthirsty  insects.  Whilst 
travelling  in  Galicia  at  this  period  of  the  year  on  horseback, 
it  is  always  advisable  to  carry  a fine  net  for  the  protection 
of  the  animal,  a sure  and  commodious  means  of  defence, 
which  appears,  however,  to  be  utterly  unknown  in  Galicia, 
where,  perhaps,  it  is  more  wanted  than  in  any  other  part 
of  the  world. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


257 


Pontevedra,  upon  the  whole,  is  certainly  entitled  to 
the  appellation  of  a magnificent  town,  some  of  its  public 
edifices,  especially  the  convents,  being  such  as  are  nowhere 
to  be  found  but  in  Spain  and  Italy.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  of  hewn  stone,  and  stands  at  the  end  of  a creek  into 
which  the  river  Levroz  disembogues.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  a colony  of  Greeks,  whose  captain  was  no 
less  a personage  than  Teucer  the  Telemonian.  It  was 
in  former  times  a place  of  considerable  commerce;  and 
near  its  port  are  to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  a farol,  or  lighthouse, 
said  to  be  of  great  antiquity.  The  port,  however,  is  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  town,  and  is  shallow  and 
incommodious.  The  whole  country  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Pontevedra  is  inconceivably  delicious,  abounding  with 
fruits  of  every  description,  especially  grapes,  which  in  the 
proper  season  are  seen  hanging  from  the  “ parras  ” in 
luscious  luxuriance.  An  old  Andalusian  author  has  said 
that  it  produces  as  many  oranges  and  citron  trees  as  the 
neighbourhood  of  Cordova.  Its  oranges  are,  however, 
by  no  means  good,  and  cannot  compete  with  those  of 
Andalusia.  The  Pontevedrians  boast  that  their  land 
produces  two  crops  every  year,  and  that  whilst  they  are 
gathering  in  one  they  may  be  seen  ploughing  and  sowing 
another.  They  may  well  be  proud  of  their  country,  which 
is  certainly  a highly  favoured  spot. 

The  town  itself  is  in  a state  of  great  decay,  and  not- 
withstanding the  magnificence  of  its  public  edifices,  we 
found  more  than  the  usual  amount  of  Galician  filth  and 
misery.  The  posada  was  one  of  the  most  wretched  descrip- 
tion, and  to  mend  the  matter,  the  hostess  was  a most 
intolerable  scold  and  shrew.  Antonio  having  found 
fault  with  the  quality  of  some  provision  which  she  produced, 
she  cursed  him  most  immoderately  in  the  country  language, 
which  was  the  only  one  she  spoke,  and  threatened,  if  he 
attempted  to  breed  any  disturbance  in  her  house,  to  turn 
the  horses,  himself,  and  his  master  forthwith  out  of  doors. 
Socrates  himself,  however,  could  not  have  conducted  him- 
self on  this  occasion  with  greater  forbearance  than  Antonio, 
who  shrugged  his  shoulders,  muttered  something  in  Greek, 
and  then  was  silent. 

“ Where  does  the  notary  public  live?  ” I demanded. 
Now  the  notary  public  vended  books,  and  to  this  personage 
I was  recommended  by  my  friend  at  Saint  James.  A boy 
conducted  me  to  the  house  of  Sehor  Garcia,  for  such  was 
his  name.  I found  him  a brisk,  active,  talkative  little 
man  of  forty.  He  undertook  with  great  alacrity  the  sale 
of  my  Testaments,  and  in  a twinkling  sold  two  to  a client 
who  was  waiting  in  the  office,  and  appeared  to  be  from  the 
33—i 


258 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


country.  He  was  an  enthusiastic  patriot,  but  of  course 
in  a local  sense,  for  he  cared  for  no  other  country  than 
Pontevedra. 

“ Those  fellows  of  Vigo,”  said  he,  “ say  their  town  is 
a better  one  than  ours,  and  that  it  is  more  deserving  to 
be  the  capital  of  this  part  of  Galicia.  Did  you  ever  hear 
such  folly?  I tell  you  what,  friend,  I should  not  care 
if  Vigo  were  burnt,  and  all  the  fools  and  rascals  within  it. 
Would  you  ever  think  of  comparing  Vigo  with  Pontevedra?  ” 
“ I don’t  know,”  I replied;  “ I have  never  been  at  Vigo, 
but  I have  heard  say  that  the  bay  of  Vigo  is  the  finest  in 
the  world.” 

“Bay!  my  good  sir.  Bay!  yes,  the  rascals  have  a 
bay,  and  it  is  that  bay  of  theirs  which  has  robbed  us  oi 
all  our  commerce.  But  what  needs  the  capital  of  a district 
with  a bay?  It  is  public  edifices  that  it  wants,  where  the 
provincial  deputies  can  meet  to  transact  their  business; 
now,  so  far  from  there  being  a commodious  public  edifice, 
there  is  not  a decent  house  in  all  Vigo.'  Bay ! yes,  they  have 
a bay,  but  have  they  water  fit  to  drink?  Have  they  a 
fountain?  Yes,  they  have,  and  the  water  is  so  brackish 
that  it  would  burst  the  stomach  of  a horse.  I hope,  my 
dear  sir,  that  you  have  not  come  all  this  distance  to  take 
the  part  of  such  a gang  of  pirates  as  those  of  Vigo.” 

“ I am  not  come  to  take  their  part,”  I replied;  “ indeed, 
I was  not  aware  that  they  wanted  my  assistance  in  this 
dispute.  I am  merely  carrying  to  them  the  New  Testa- 
ment, of  which  they  evidently  stand  in  much  need,  if  they 
are  such  knaves  and  scoundrels  as  you  represent  them.” 

“ Represent  them,  my  dear  sir.  Does  not  the  matter 
speak  for  itself?  Do  they  not  say  that  their  town  is  better 
than  ours,  more  fit  to  be  the  capital  of  a district,  que 
disparate!  que  briboneria  ! (what  folly!  what  rascality !)!  ” 
“ Is  there  a bookseller’s  shop  at  Vigo?  ” I inquired. 

“ There  was  one,”  he  replied,  “ kept  by  an  insane 
barber.  I am  glad,  for  your  sake,  that  it  is  broken  up, 
and  the  fellow  vanished;  he  would  have  played  you  one  of 
two  tricks;  he  would  either  have  cut  your  throat  with  his 
razor,  under  pretence  of  shaving  you,  or  have  taken  your 
books  and  never  have  accounted  to  you  for  the  proceeds. 
Bay!  I never  could  see  what  right  such  an  owl’s  nest  as 
Vigo  has  to  a bay.” 

No  person  could  exhibit  greater  kindness  to  another, 
than  did  the  notary  public  to  myself,  as  soon  as  I had 
convinced  him  that  I had  no  intention  of  siding  with  the 
men  of  Vigo  against  Pontevedra.  It  was  now  six  o’clock 
in  the  evening,  and  he  forthwith  conducted  me  to  a con- 
fectioner’s shop,  where  he  treated  me  with  an  iced  cream 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


259 


and  a small  cup  of  chocolate.  From  hence  we  walked  about 
the  city,  the  notary  showing  the  various  edifices,  especially 
the  Convent  of  the  Jesuits:  “ See  that  front,”  said  he, 
“ what  do  you  think  of  it?  ” 

I expressed  to  him  the  admiration  which  I really  felt, 
and  by  so  doing  entirely  won  the  good  notary's  heart: 
“ I suppose  there  is  nothing  like  that  at  Vigo?  ” said  I. 
He  looked  at  me  for  a moment,  winked,  gave  a short 
triumphant  chuckle,  and  then  proceeded  on  his  way, 
walking  at  a tremendous  rate.  The  Senor  Garcia  was 
dressed  in  all  respects  as  an  English  notary  might  be: 
he  wore  a white  hat,  brown  frock  coat,  drab  breeches 
buttoned  at  the  knees,  white  stockings,  and  well  blacked 
shoes.  But  I never  saw  an  English  notary  walk  so  fast: 
it  could  scarcely  be  called  walking:  it  seemed  more  like 
a succession  of  galvanic  leaps  and  bounds.  I found  it 
impossible  to  keep  up  with  him:  “ Where  are  you  con- 
ducting me?  ” I at  last  demanded,  quite  breathless. 

“ To  the  house  of  the  cleverest  man  in  Spain,”  he  replied, 
“ to  whom  I intend  to  introduce  you ; for  you  must  not 
think  that  Pontevedra  has  nothing  to  boast  of  but  its 
splendid  edifices  and  its  beautiful  country;  it  produces 
more  illustrious  minds  than  any  other  town  in  Spain. 
Did  you  ever  hear  of  the  grand  Tamerlane?  ” 

“ Oh,  yes,”  said  I,  “ but  he  did  not  come  from  Ponte- 
vedra or  its  neighbourhood:  he  came  from  the  steppes 
of  Tartary,  near  the  river  Oxus.” 

“ I know  he  did,”  replied  the  notary,  “ but  what  I 
mean  to  say  is,  that  when  Enrique  the  Third  wanted 
an  ambassador  to  send  to  that  African,  the  only  man  he 
could  find  suited  to  the  enterprise  was  a knight  of  Ponte- 
vedra, Don by  name.  Let  the  men  of  Vigo  contradict 

that  fact  if  they  can.” 

We  entered  a large  portal  and  ascended  a splendid 
staircase,  at  the  top  of  which  the  notary  knocked  at  a 
small  door:  “ Who  is  the  gentleman  to  whom  you  are  about 
to  introduce  me?  ” demanded  I. 

“ It  is  the  advocate  ,”  replied  Garcia;  “ he  is  the 

cleverest  man  in  Spain,  and  understands  all  languages 
and  sciences.” 

We  were  admitted  by  a respectable-looking  female, 
to  all  appearance  a housekeeper,  who,  on  being  questioned, 
informed  us  that  the  Advocate  was  at  home,  and  forthwith 
conducted  us  to  an  immense  room,  or  rather  library,  the 
walls  being  covered  with  books,  except  in  two  or  three 
places,  where  hung  some  fine  pictures  of  the  ancient  Spanish 
school.  There  was  a rich  mellow  light  in  the  apartment, 
streaming  through  a window  of  stained  glass,  which  looked 


260 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


to  the  west.  Behind  the  table  sat  the  Advocate,  on  whom 
I looked  with  no  little  interest:  his  forehead  was  high 

and  wrinkled,  and  there  was  much  gravity  on  his  features, 
which  were  quite  Spanish.  He  was  dressed  in  a long  robe, 
and  might  be  about  sixty;  he  sat  reading  behind  a large 
table,  and  on  our  entrance  half  raised  himself  and  bowed 
slightly. 

The  notary  public  saluted  him  most  profoundly,  and, 
in  an  under  voice,  hoped  that  he  might  be  permitted  to 
introduce  a friend  of  his,  an  English  gentleman,  who  was 
travelling  through  Galicia. 

“ I am  very  glad  to  see  him,”  said  the  Advocate,  “ but 
I hope  he  speaks  Castilian,  else  we  can  have  but  little 
communication;  for,  although  I can  read  both  French  and 
Latin,  I cannot  speak  them.” 

“ He  speaks,  sir,  almost  as  good  Spanish,”  said  the 
notary,  “ as  a native  of  Pontevedra.” 

“ The  natives  of  Pontevedra,”  I replied,  “ appear  to 
be  better  versed  in  Gallegan  than  in  Castilian,  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  conversation  which  I hear  in  the  streets 
is  carried  on  in  the  former  dialect.” 

“ The  last  gentleman  which  my  friend  Garcia  intro- 
duced to  me,”  said  the  Advocate,  “ was  a Portuguese, 
who  spoke  little  or  no  Spanish.  It  is  said  that  the  Gallegan 
and  Portuguese  are  very  similar,  but  when  we  attempted 
to  converse  in  the  two  languages,  we  found  it  impossible. 
I understood  little  of  what  he  said,  whilst  my  Gallegan 
was  quite  unintelligible  to  him.  Can  you  understand 
our  country  dialect?  ” he  continued. 

“ Very  little  of  it,”  I replied;  “ which  I believe  chiefly 
proceeds  from  the  peculiar  accent  and  uncouth  enuncia- 
tion of  the  Gallegans,  for  their  language  is  certainly 
almost  entirely  composed  of  Spanish  and  Portuguese 
words.” 

“ So  you  are  an  Englishman,”  said  the  Advocate. 
“ Your  countrymen  have  committed  much  damage  in  times 
past  in  these  regions,  if  we  may  trust  our  histories.” 

“ Yes,”  said  I,  “ they  sank  your  galleons  and  burnt 
your  finest  men-of-war  in  Vigo  Bay,  and,  under  old  Cobham, 
levied  a contribution  of  forty  thousand  pounds  sterling 
on  this  very  town  of  Pontevedra.” 

“ Any  foreign  power,”  interrupted  the  notary  public, 
" has  a clear  right  to  attack  Vigo,  but  I cannot  conceive 
what  plea  your  countrymen  could  urge  for  distressing 
Pontevedra,  which  is  a respectable  town,  and  could  never 
have  offended  them.” 

“ Senor  Cavalier,”  said  the  Advocate,  “ I will  show 
you  my  library.  Here  is  a curious  work,  a collection  of 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


261 


poems,  written  mostly  in  Gallegan,  by  the  curate  of  Fruime. 
He  is  our  national  poet,  and  we  are  very  proud  of  him.” 

We  stopped  upwards  of  an  hour  with  the  Advocate, 
whose  conversation,  if  it  did  not  convince  me  that  he 
was  the  cleverest  man  in  Spain,  was,  upon  the  whole, 
highly  interesting,  and  who  certainly  possessed  an  ex- 
tensive store  of  general  information,  though  he  was  by 
no  means  the  profound  philologist  which  the  notary  had 
represented  him  to  be. 

When  I was  about  to  depart  from  Pontevedra  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  next  day,  the  Senor  Garcia  stood  by  the 
side  of  my  horse,  and  having  embraced  me,  thrust  a small 
pamphlet  into  my  hand:  “ This  book,”  said  he,  “ contains 
a description  of  Pontevedra.  Wherever  you  go,  speak 
well  of  Pontevedra.”  I nodded.  “ Stay,”  said  he,  “ my 
dear  friend,  I have  heard  of  your  society,  and  will  do  my 
best  to  further  its  views.  I am  quite  disinterested,  but 
if  at  any  future  time  you  should  have  an  opportunity 
of  speaking  in  print  of  Senor  Garcia,  the  notary  public  of 
Pontevedra, — you  understand  me, — I wish  you  would  do 
so.” 

“ I will,”  said  I. 

It  was  a pleasant  afternoon’s  ride  from  Pontevedra  to 
Vigo,  the  distance  being  only  four  leagues.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  latter  town,  the  country  became  exceedingly 
mountainous,  though  scarcely  anything  could  exceed  the 
beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
were  for  the  most  part  clothed  with  luxuriant  forests, 
even  to  the  very  summits,  though  occasionally  a flinty 
and  naked  peak  would  present  itself,  rising  to  the  clouds. 
As  the  evening  came  on,  the  route  along  which  we  advanced 
became  very  gloomy,  the  hills  and  forests  enwrapping  it 
in  deep  shade.  It  appeared,  however,  to  be  well  frequented: 
numerous  cars  were  creaking  along  it,  and  both  horsemen 
and  pedestrians  were  continually  passing  us.  The  villages 
were  frequent.  Vines,  supported  on  parras,  were  growing, 
if  possible,  in  still  greater  abundance  than  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Pontevedra.  Life  and  activity  seemed  to  pervade 
everything.  The  hum  of  insects,  the  cheerful  bark  of  dogs, 
the  rude  songs  of  Galicia,  were  blended  together  in  pleasant 
symphony.  So  delicious  was  my  ride,  that  I almost 
regretted  when  we  entered  the  gate  of  Vigo. 

The  town  occupies  the  lower  part  of  a lofty  hill,  which, 
as  it  ascends,  becomes  extremely  steep  and  precipitous, 
and  the  top  of  which  is  crowned  with  a strong  fort  or  castle. 
It  is  a small  compact  place,  surrounded  with  low  walls; 
the  streets  are  narrow,  steep,  and  winding,  and  in  the  middle 
of  the  town  is  a small  square. 


262 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


There  is  rather  an  extensive  faubourg  extending  along 
the  shore  of  the  bay.  We  found  an  excellent  posada, 
kept  by  a man  and  woman  from  the  Basque  provinces, 
who  were  both  civil  and  intelligent.  The  town  seemed 
to  be  crowded,  and  resounded  with  noise  and  merriment. 
The  people  were  making  a wretched  attempt  at  an  illumina- 
tion, in  consequence  of  some  victory  lately  gained,  or 
pretended  to  have  been  gained,  over  the  forces  of  the 
Pretender.  Military  uniforms  were  glancing  about  in 
every  direction.  To  increase  the  bustle,  a troop  of  Portu- 
guese players  had  lately  arrived  from  Oporto,  and  their 
first  representation  was  to  take  place  this  evening.  “ Is 
the  play  to  be  performed  in  Spanish?  ” I demanded.  “ No,” 
was  the  reply;  “ and  on  that  account  every  person  is  so 
eager  to  go;  which  would  not  be  the  case  if  it  were  in  a 
language  which  they  could  understand.” 

On  the  morning  of  the  next  day  I was  seated  at  break- 
fast in  a large  apartment  which  looked  out  upon  the  Plaza 
Mayor,  or  great  square  of  the  good  town  of  Vigo.  The 
sun  was  shining  very  brilliantly,  and  all  around  looked 
lively  and  gay.  Presently  a stranger  entered,  and  bowing 
profoundly,  stationed  himself  at  the  window,  where  he 
remained  a considerable  time  in  silence.  He  was  a man 
of  very  remarkable  appearance,  of  about  thirty-five.  His 
features  were  of  perfect  symmetry,  and  I may  almost  say, 
of  perfect  beauty.  His  hair  was  the  darkest  I had  ever 
seen,  glossy  and  shining;  his  eyes  large,  black,  and  melan- 
choly; but  that  which  most  struck  me  was  his  complexion. 
It  might  be  called  olive,  it  is  true,  but  it  was  a livid  olive. 
He  was  dressed  in  the  very  first  style  of  French  fashion. 
Around  his  neck  was  a massive  gold  chain,  while  upon 
his  fingers  were  large  rings,  in  one  of  which  was  set  a 
magnificent  ruby.  Who  can  that  man  be?  thought  I; — 
Spaniard  or  Portuguese,  perhaps  a Creole.  I asked  him 
an  indifferent  question  in  Spanish,  to  which  he  forthwith 
replied  in  that  language,  but  his  accent  convinced  me  that 
he  was  neither  Spaniard  nor  Portuguese. 

“ I presume  I am  speaking  to  an  Englishman,  sir?  ” 
said  he,  in  as  good  English  as  it  was  possible  for  one  not 
an  Englishman  to  speak. 

Myself. — You  know  me  to  be  an  Englishman;  but  I 
should  find  some  difficulty  in  guessing  to  what  country  you 
belong. 

Stranger . — May  I take  a seat? 

Myself . — A singular  question.  Have  you  not  as  much 
right  to  sit  in  the  public  apartment  of  an  inn  as  myself? 

Stranger . — I am  not  certain  of  that.  The  people  here  are 

not  in  general  very  gratified  at  seeing  me  seated  by  their  side. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


263 


Myself. — Perhaps  owing  to  your  political  opinions,  or 
to  some  crime  which  it  may  have  been  your  misfortune 
to  commit? 

Stranger. — I have  no  political  opinions,  and  I am  not 
aware  that  I ever  committed  any  particular  crime, — I 
am  hated  for  my  country  and  my  religion. 

Myself. — Perhaps  I am  speaking  to  a Protestant,  like 
myself? 

Stranger. — I am  no  Protestant.  If  I were,  they  would 
be  cautious  here  of  showing  their  dislike,  for  I should 
then  have  a government  and  a consul  to  protect  me.  I 
am  a Jew — a Barb  ary  Jew,  a subject  of  Abderrahman. 

Myself. — If  that  be  the  case,  you  can  scarcely  complain 
of  being  looked  upon  with  dislike  in  this  country,  since 
in  Barbary  the  Jews  are  slaves. 

Stranger. — In  most  parts,  I grant  you,  but  not  where 
I was  born,  which  was  far  up  the  country,  near  the  deserts. 
There  the  Jews  are  free,  and  are  feared,  and  are  as  valiant 
men  as  the  Moslems  themselves;  as  able  to  tame  the  steed, 
or  to  fire  the  gun.  The  Jews  of  our  tribe  are  not  slaves, 
and  I like  not  to  be  treated  as  a slave  either  by  Christian 
or  Moor. 

Myself. — Your  history  must  be  a curious  one,  I would 
fain  hear  it. 

Stranger. — My  history  I shall  tell  to  no  one.  I have 
travelled  much,  I have  been  in  commerce  and  have  thriven. 
I am  at  present  established  in  Portugal,  but  I love  not  the 
people  of  Catholic  countries,  and  least  of  all  these  of  Spain. 
I have  lately  experienced  the  most  shameful  injustice  in 
the  Aduana  of  this  town,  and  when  I complained,  they 
laughed  at  me  and  called  me  Jew.  Wherever  he  turns, 
the  Jew  is  reviled,  save  in  your  country,  and  on  that  account 
my  blood  always  warms  when  I see  an  Englishman.  You 
are  a stranger  here.  Can  I do  aught  for  you?  You  may 
command  me. 

Myself. — I thank  you  heartily,  but  I am  in  need  of 
no  assistance. 

Stranger. — Have  you  any  bills,  I will  accept  them  if  you 
have? 

Myself. — I have  no  need  of  assistance;  but  you  may 
do  me  a favour  by  accepting  of  a book. 

Stranger. — I will  receive  it  with  thanks.  I know  what 
it  is.  What  a singular  people?  The  same  dress,  the 
same  look,  the  same  book.  Pelham  gave  me  one  in  Egypt. 
Farewelll  Your  Jesus  was  a good  man,  perhaps  a prophet; 
but  . . . farewell! 

Well  may  the  people  of  Pontevedra  envy  the  natives 
of  Vigo  their  bay,  with  which,  in  many  respects,  none 


264 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


other  in  the  world  can  compare.  On  every  side  it  is 
defended  by  steep  and  sublime  hills,  save  on  the  part  of 
the  west,  where  is  the  outlet  to  the  Atlantic;  but  in  the 
midst  of  this  outlet,  up  towers  a huge  rocky  wall,  or  island, 
which  breaks  the  swell,  and  prevents  the  billows  of  the 
western  sea  from  pouring  through  in  full  violence.  On 
either  side  of  this  island  is  a passage,  so  broad,  that  navies 
might  pass  through  at  all  times  in  safety.  The  bay  itself 
is  oblong,  running  far  into  the  land,  and  so  capacious, 
that  a thousand  sail  of  the  line  might  ride  in  it  uncrowded. 
The  waters  are  dark,  still,  and  deep,  without  quicksands 
or  shallows,  so  that  the  proudest  man-of-war  might  lie 
within  a stone’s  throw  of  the  town  ramparts  without  any 
fear  of  injuring  her  keel. 

Of  many  a strange  event,  and  of  many  a mighty  prepara- 
tion has  this  bay  been  the  scene.  It  was  here  that  the 
bulky  dragons  of  the  grand  armada  were  mustered,  and  it 
was  from  hence  that,  fraught  with  the  pomp,  power,  and 
terror  of  old  Spain,  the  monster  fleet,  spreading  its  enormous 
sails  to  the  wind,  and  bent  on  the  ruin  of  the  Lutheran 
isle,  proudly  steered; — that  fleet,  to  build  and  man  which 
half  the  forests  of  Galicia  had  been  felled,  and  all  the 
mariners  impressed  from  the  thousand  bays  and  creeks 
of  the  stern  Cantabrian  shore.  It  was  here  that  the  united 
flags  of  Holland  and  England  triumphed  over  the  pride 
of  Spain  and  France;  when  the  burning  timbers  of  exploded 
war-ships  soared  above  the  tops  of  the  Gailegan  hills, 
and  blazing  galleons  sank  with  their  treasure  chests  whilst 
drifting  in  the  direction  of  Sampayo.  It  was  on  the  shores 
of  this  bay  that  the  English  guards  first  emptied  Spanish 
bodegas,  whilst  the  bombs  of  Cobham  were  crushing  the 
roofs  of  the  castle  of  Castro,  and  the  vecinos  of  Pontevedra 
buried  their  doubloons  in  cellars,  and  flying  posts  were 
conveying  to  Lugo  and  Orensee  the  news  of  the  heretic 
invasion  and  the  disaster  of  Vigo.  All  these  events  occurred 
to  my  mind  as  I stood  far  up  the  hill,  at  a short  distance 
from  the  fort,  surveying  the  bay. 

“ What  are  you  doing  there,  Cavalier?  ” roared  several 
voices.  “ Stay,  Carracho!  if  you  attempt  to  run  we  will 
shoot  you! 99  I looked  round  and  saw  three  or  four  fellows 
in  dirty  uniforms,  to  all  appearance  soldiers,  just  above 
me,  on  a winding  path,  which  led  up  the  hill.  Their 
muskets  were  pointed  at  me.  “ What  am  I doing? 
Nothing,  as  you  see,”  said  I,  “ save  looking  at  the  bay; 
and  as  for  running,  this  is  by  no  means  ground  for  a course.” 
“ You  are  our  prisoner,”  said  they,  “ and  you  must  come 
with  us  to  the  fort.”  “ I was  just  thinking  of  going  there,” 
I replied,  “ before  you  thus  kindly  invited  me.  The  fort 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


, 265 

is  the  very  spot  I was  desirous  of  seeing/’  I thereupon 
climbed  up  to  the  place  where  they  stood,  when  they 
instantly  surrounded  me,  and  with  this  escort  I was  marched 
into  the  fort,  which  might  have  been  a strong  place  in  its 
time,  but  was  now  rather  ruinous.  “ You  are  suspected 
of  being  a spy,”  said  the  corporal,  who  walked  in  front. 
“ Indeed,”  said  I.  “ Yes,”  replied  the  corporal,  “ and 
several  spies  have  lately  been  taken  and  shot.” 

Upon  one  of  the  parapets  of  the  fort  stood  a young 
man,  dressed  as  a subaltern  officer,  and  to  this  personage 
I was  introduced.  “ We  have  been  watching  you  this 
half  hour,”  said  he,  “ as  you  were  taking  observations.” 
“ Then  you  gave  yourselves  much  useless  trouble,”  said 
I.  “ I am  an  Englishman,  and  was  merely  looking  at  the 
bay.  Have  the  kindness  now  to  show  me  the  fort.”  . 

After  some  conversation,  he  said,  “ I wish  to  be  civil 
to  people  of  your  nation,  you  may  therefore  consider 
yourself  at  liberty.”  I bowed,  made  my  exit,  and  pro- 
ceeded down  the  hill.  Just  before  I entered  the  town, 
however,  the  corporal,  who  had  followed  me  unperceived, 
tapped  me  on  the  shoulder.  “ You  must  go  with  me  to 
the  governor,”  said  he.  “ With  ail  my  heart,”  I replied. 
The  governor  was  shaving,  when  we  were  shown  up  to  him. 
He  was  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  and  held  a razor  in  his  hand. 
He  looked  very  ill-natured,  which  was  perhaps  owing 
to  his  being  thus  interrupted  in  his  toilet.  He  asked  me 
two  or  three  questions,  and  on  learning  that  I had  a pass- 
port, and  was  the  bearer  of  a letter  to  the  English  consul, 
he  told  me  that  I was  at  liberty  to  depart.  So  I bowed  to 
the  governor  of  the  town,  as  I had  done  to  the  governor 
of  the  fort,  and  making  my  exit  proceeded  to  my  inn. 

At  Vigo  I accomplished  but  little  in  the  way  of  distribu- 
tion, and  after  a sojourn  of  a few  days,  I returned  in  the 
direction  of  Saint  James. 


266 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

Arrival  at  Padron — Projected  Enterprise — The  Alquilador — Breach  of 

Promise — An  Odd  Companion — A Plain  Story — Rugged  Paths — The 

Desertion — The  Pony — A Dialogue — Unpleasant  Situation — The 

Estadea — Benighted — The  Hut — The  Traveller’s  Pillow. 

I arrived  at  Padron  late  in  the  evening,  on  my  return 
from  Pontevedra  and  Vigo.  It  was  my  intention  at  this 
place  to  send  my  servant  and  horses  forward  to  Santiago, 
and  to  hire  a guide  to  Cape  Finisterra.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  assign  any  plausible  reason  for  the  ardent  desire  which 
I entertained  to  visit  this  place;  but  I remembered  that 
last  year  I had  escaped  almost  by  a miracle  from  shipwreck 
and  death  on  the  rocky  sides  of  this  extreme  point  of  the 
Old  World,  and  I thought  that  to  convey  the  Gospel  to  a 
place  so  wild  and  remote,  might  perhaps  be  considered 
an  acceptable  pilgrimage  in  the  eyes  of  my  Maker.  True 
it  is  that  but  one  copy  remained  of  those  which  I had 
brought  with  me  on  this  last  journey,  but  this  reflection, 
far  from  discouraging  me  in  my  projected  enterprise, 
produced  the  contrary  effect,  as  I called  to  mind  that 
ever  since  the  Lord  revealed  himself  to  man,  it  has  seemed 
good  to  him  to  accomplish  the  greatest  ends  by  apparently 
the  most  insufficient  means;  and  I reflected  that  this  one 
copy  might  serve  as  an  instrument  of  more  good  than 
the  four  thousand  nine  hundred  and  ninety-nine  copies  of 
the  edition  of  Madrid. 

I was  aware  that  my  own  horses  were  quite  incompetent 
to  reach  Finisterra,  as  the  roads  or  paths  lie  through  stony 
ravines,  and  over  rough  and  shaggy  hills,  and  therefore 
determined  to  leave  them  behind  with  Antonio,  whom  I 
was  unwilling  to  expose  to  the  fatigues  of  such  a journey. 
I lost  no  time  in  sending  for  an  alquilador,  or  person  who 
lets  out  horses,  and  informing  him  of  my  intention.  Fie 
said  he  had  an  excellent  mountain  pony  at  my  disposal, 
and  that  he  himself  would  accompany  me,  but  at  the  same 
time  observed,  that  it  was  a terrible  journey  for  man  and 
horse,  and  that  he  expected  to  be  paid  accordingly.  I 
consented  to  give  him  what  he  demanded,  but  on  the 
express  condition  that  he  would  perform  his  promise  of 
attending  me  himself,  as  I was  unwilling  to  trust  myself 
four  or  five  days  amongst  the  hills  with  any  low  fellow 
of  the  town  whom  he  might  select,  and  who  it  was  very 
possible  might  play  me  some  evil  turn.  He  replied  by  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


267 


term  invariably  used  by  the  Spaniards  when  they  see 
doubt  or  distrust  exhibited.  “ No  tenga  usted  cuidao  ” 

I will  go  myself.  Having  thus  arranged  the  matter 
perfectly  satisfactorily,  as  I thought,  I partook  of  a slight 
supper,  and  shortly  afterwards  retired  to  repose. 

I had  requested  the  alquilador  to  call  me  the  next  morning 
at  three  o'clock;  he  however  did  not  make  his  appearance 
till  five,  having,  I suppose,  overslept  himself,  which  was 
indeed  my  own  case.  I arose  in  a hurry,  dressed,  put  a 
few  things  in  a bag,  not  forgetting  the  Testament  which 
I had  resolved  to  present  to  the  inhabitants  of  Finisterra. 
I then  sallied  forth  and  saw  my  friend  the  alquilador, 
who  was  holding  by  the  bridle  the  pony  or  jaco  which  was 
destined  to  carry  me  in  my  expedition.  It  was  a beautiful 
little  animal,  apparently  strong  and  full  of  life,  without  one 
single  white  hair  in  its  whole  body,  which  was  black  as  the 
plumage  of  the  crow. 

Behind  it  stood  a strange-looking  figure  of  the  biped 
species,  to  whom,  however,  at  the  moment,  I paid  little 
attention,  but  of  whom  I shall  have  plenty  to  say  in  the 
sequel. 

Having  asked  the  horse-lender  whether  he  was  ready 
to  proceed,  and  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  I bade 
adieu  to  Antonio,  and  putting  the  pony  in  motion,  we 
hastened  out  of  the  town,  taking  at  first  the  road  which 
leads  towards  Santiago.  Observing  that  the  figure  which 
I have  previously  alluded  to  was  following  close  at  our  heels, 
I asked  the  alquilador  who  it  was,  and  the  reason  of  its 
following  us;  to  which  he  replied  that  it  was  a servant 
of  his,  who  would  proceed  a little  way  with  us  and  then 
return.  So  on  we  went  at  a rapid  rate,  till  we  were  within 
a quarter  of  a mile  of  the  Convent  of  the  Esclavitud,  a 
little  beyond  which  he  had  informed  me  that  we  should 
have  to  turn  off  from  the  high  road;  but  here  he  suddenly 
stopped  short,  and  in  a moment  we  were  all  at  a standstill. 
I questioned  the  guide  as  to  the  reason  of  this,  but  received 
no  answer.  The  fellow's  eyes  were  directed  to  the  ground, 
and  he  seemed  to  be  counting  with  the  most  intense  solici- 
tude the  prints  of  the  hoofs  of  the  oxen,  mules,  and  horses 
in  the  dust  of  the  road.  I repeated  my  demand  in  a louder 
voice;  when,  after  a considerable  pause,  he  somewhat 
elevated  his  eyes,  without  however  looking  me  in  the  face, 
and  said  that  he  believed  that  I entertained  the  idea  that 
he  himself  was  to  guide  me  to  Finisterra,  which  if  I did, 
he  was  very  sorry  for,  the  thing  being  quite  impossible, 
as  he  was  perfectly  ignorant  of  the  way,  and,  moreover, 
incapable  of  performing  such  a journey  over  rough  and 
difficult  ground,  as  he  was  no  longer  the  man  he  had  been, 


268 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  over  and  above  all  that,  he  was  engaged  that  day 
to  accompany  a gentleman  to  Pontevedra,  who  was  at  that 
moment  expecting  him.  <r  But,”  continued  he,  “ as  I am 
always  desirous  of  behaving  like  a caballero  to  everybody, 

I have  taken  measures  to  prevent  your  being  disappointed. 
This  person,”  pointing  to  the  figure,  “ I have  engaged  to 
accompany  you.  He  is  a most  trustworthy  person,  and  is 
well  acquainted  with  the  route  to  Finisterra,  having  been 
thither  several  times  with  this  very  jaco  on  which  you  are 
mounted.  He  will,  besides,  be  an  agreeable  companion 
to  you  on  the  way,  as  he  speaks  French  and  English  very 
well,  and  has  been  all  over  the  world.”  The  fellow  ceased 
speaking  at  last;  and  I was  so  struck  with  his  craft, 
impudence,  and  villainy,  that  some  time  elapsed  before 
I could  find  an  answer.  I then  reproached  him  in  the 
bitterest  terms  for  his  breach  of  promise,  and  said  that  I 
was  much  tempted  to  return  to  the  town  instantly,  complain 
of  him  to  the  alcalde,  and  have  him  punished  at  any  expense. 
To  which  he  replied,  “ Sir  Cavalier,  by  so  doing  you  will 
be  nothing  nearer  Finisterra,  to  which  you  seem  so  eager 
to  get.  Take  my  advice,  spur  on  the  jaco,  for  you  see  it 
is  getting  late,  and  it  is  twelve  long  leagues  from  hence  to 
Corcuvion,  where  you  must  pass  the  night;  and  from 
thence  to  Finisterra  is  no  trifle.  As  for  the  man,  no  tenga 
usted  cuidao9  he  is  the  best  guide  in  all  Galicia,  speaks 
English  and  French,  and  will  bear  you  pleasant  company.” 
By  this  time  I had  reflected  that  by  returning  to  Padron 
I should  indeed  be  only  wasting  time,  and  that  by  endeav- 
ouring to  have  the  fellow  punished,  no  benefit  would  accrue 
to  me;  moreover,  as  he  seemed  to  be  a scoundrel  in  every 
sense  of  the  word,  I might  as  well  proceed  in  the  company 
of  any  person  as  in  his.  I therefore  signified  my  intention 
of  proceeding,  and  told  him  to  go  back  in  the  Lord's  name, 
and  repent  of  his  sins.  But  having  gained  one  point, 
he  thought  he  had  best  attempt  another;  so  placing 
himself  about  a yard  before  the  jaco,  he  said  that  the  price 
which  I had  agreed  to  pay  him  for  the  loan  of  his  horse 
(which  by  the  by  was  the  full  sum  he  had  demanded)  was 
by  no  means  sufficient,  and  that  before  I proceeded  I must 
promise  him  two  dollars  more,  adding  that  he  was  either 
drunk  or  mad  when  he  had  made  such  a bargain.  I was 
now  thoroughly  incensed,  and  without  a moment's  reflection, 
spurred  the  jaco,  which  flung  him  down  in  the  dust,  and 
passed  over  him.  Looking  back  at  the  distance  of  a hundred 
yards,  I saw  him  standing  in  the  same  place,  his  hat  on  the 
ground,  gazing  after  us,  and  crossing  himself  most  devoutly. 
His  servant,  or  whatever  he  was,  far  from  offering  any 
assistance  to  his  principal,  no  sooner  saw  the  jaco  in  motion 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


269 


than  he  ran  on  by  its  side,  without  word  or  comment, 
farther  than  striking  himself  lustily  on  the  thigh  with  his 
right  palm.  We  soon  passed  the  Esclavitud,  and  presently 
afterwards  turned  to  the  left  into  a stony  broken  path 
leading  to  fields  of  maze.  We  passed  by  several  farm- 
houses, and  at  last  arrived  at  a dingle,  the  sides  of  which 
were  plentifully  overgrown  with  dwarf  oaks,  and  which 
slanted  down  to  a small  dark  river  shaded  with  trees, 
which  we  crossed  by  a rude  bridge.  By  this  time  I had 
had  sufficient  time  to  scan  my  odd  companion  from  head 
to  foot.  His  utmost  height,  had  he  made  the  most  of 
himself,  might  perhaps  have  amounted  to  five  feet  one 
inch;  but  he  seemed  somewhat  inclined  to  stoop.  Nature 
had  gifted  him  with  an  immense  head  and  placed  it  clean 
upon  his  shoulders,  for  amongst  the  items  of  his  composi- 
tion it  did  not  appear  that  a neck  had  been  included. 
Arms  long  and  brawny  swung  at  his  sides,  and  the  whole 
of  his  frame  was  as  strong  built  and  powerful  as  a wrestler's; 
his  body  was  supported  by  a pair  of  short  but  very  nimble 
legs.  His  face  was  very  long,  and  would  have  borne 
some  slight  resemblance  to  a human  countenance  had  the 
nose  been  more  visible,  for  its  place  seemed  to  have  been 
entirely  occupied  by  a wry  mouth  and  large  staring  eyes. 
His  dress  consisted  of  three  articles:  an  old  and  tattered 
hat  of  the  Portuguese  kind,  broad  at  the  crown  and  narrow 
at  the  eaves,  something  which  appeared  to  be  a shirt,  and 
dirty  canvas  trousers.  Willing  to  enter  into  conversation 
with  him,  and  remembering  that  the  alquilador  had 
informed  me  that  he  spoke  languages,  I asked  him,  in 
English,  if  he  had  always  acted  in  the  capacity  of  guide? 
Whereupon  he  turned  his  eyes  with  a singular  expression 
upon  my  face,  gave  a loud  laugh,  a long  leap,  and  clapped 
his  hands  thrice  above  his  head.  Perceiving  that  he  did 
not  understand  me,  I repeated  my  demand  in  French,  and 
was  again  answered  by  the  laugh,  leap,  and  clapping. 
At  last  he  said  in  broken  Spanish,  “ Master  mine,  speak 
Spanish  in  God's  name,  and  I can  understand  you,  and 
still  better  if  you  speak  Gallegan,  but  I can  promise  no 
more.  I heard  what  the  alquilador  told  you,  but  he  is  the 
greatest  embustero  in  the  whole  land,  and  deceived  you 
then  as  he  did  when  he  promised  to  accompany  you.  I 
serve  him  for  my  sins;  but  it  was  an  evil  hour  when  I left 
the  deep  sea  and  turned  guide."  He  then  informed  me 
that  he  was  a native  of  Padron,  and  a mariner  by  profession, 
having  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life  in  the  Spanish 
navy,  in  which  service  he  had  visited  Cuba  and  many  parts 
of  the  Spanish  Americas,  adding,  “ when  my  master  told 
you  that  I should  bear  you  pleasant  company  by  the  way. 


270 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


it  was  the  only  word  of  truth  that  has  come  from  his  mouth 
for  a month;  and  long  before  you  reach  Finisterra  you 
will  have  rejoiced  that  the  servant,  and  not  the  master, 
went  with  you:  he  is  dull  and  heavy,  but  I am  what  you 
see.”  He  then  gave  two  or  three  first-rate  summersets, 
again  laughed  loudly,  and  clapped  his  hands.  “ You 
would  scarcely  think,”  he  continued,  “ that  I drove  that 
little  pony  yesterday  heavily  laden  all  the  way  from 
Coruna.  We  arrived  at  Padron  at  two  o’clock  this  morning; 
but  we  are  nevertheless  both  willing  and  able  to  undertake 
a fresh  journey.  No  tenga  usted  cuidao,  as  my  master  said, 
no  one  ever  complains  of  that  pony  or  of  me.”  In  this 
kind  of  discourse  we  proceeded  a considerable  way  through 
a very  picturesque  country,  until  we  reached  a beautiful 
village  at  the  skirt  of  a mountain.  “ This  village,”  said 
my  guide,  “ is  called  Los  Angeles,  because  its  church 
was  built  long  since  by  the  angels;  they  placed  a beam 
of  gold  beneath  it,  which  they  brought  down  from  heaven, 
and  which  was  once  a rafter  of  God’s  own  house.  It  runs 
all  the  way  under  the  ground  from  hence  to  the  cathedral 
of  Compostella.” 

Passing  through  the  village,  which  he  likewise  informed 
me  possessed  baths,  and  was  much  visited  by  the  people 
of  Santiago,  we  shaped  our  course  to  the  north-west, 
and  by  so  doing  doubled  a mountain  which  rose  majestically 
over  our  heads,  its  top  crowned  with  bare  and  broken  rocks, 
whilst  on  our  right,  on  the  other  side  of  a spacious  valley, 
was  a high  range,  connected  with  the  mountains  to  the 
northward  of  Saint  James.  On  the  summit  of  this  range 
rose  high  embattled  towers,  which  my  guide  informed  me 
were  those  of  Altamira,  an  ancient  and  ruined  castle, 
formerly  the  principal  residence  in  this  province  of  the 
counts  of  that  name.  Turning  now  due  west,  we  were 
soon  at  the  bottom  of  a steep  and  rugged  pass,  which  led 
to  more  elevated  regions.  The  ascent  cost  us  nearly  half 
an  hour,  and  the  difficulties  of  the  ground  were  such,  that 
I more  than  once  congratulated  myself  on  having  left 
my  own  horses  behind,  and  being  mounted  on  the  gallant 
little  pony  which,  accustomed  to  such  paths,  scrambled 
bravely  forward,  and  eventually  brought  us  in  safety  to 
the  top  of  the  ascent. 

Here  we  entered  a Gallegan  cabin,  or  choza,  for  the 
purpose  of  refreshing  the  animal  and  ourselves.  The 
quadruped  ate  some  maize,  whilst  we  two  bipeds  regaled 
ourselves  on  some  broa  and  aguardiente,  which  a woman 
whom  we  found  in  the  hut  placed  before  us.  I walked 
out  for  a few  minutes  to  observe  the  aspect  of  the  country, 
and  on  my  return  found  my  guide  fast  asleep  on  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


271 


bench  where  I had  left  him.  He  sat  bolt  upright,  his  back 
supported  against  the  wall,  and  his  legs  pendulous,  within 
three  inches  of  the  ground,  being  too  short  to  reach  it. 

I remained  gazing  upon  him  for  at  least  five  minutes, 
whilst  he  enjoyed  slumbers  seemingly  as  quiet  and  profound 
as  those  of  death  itself.  His  face  brought  powerfully  to  my 
mind  some  of  those  uncouth  visages  of  saints  and  abbots 
which  are  occasionally  seen  in  the  niches  of  the  walls  of 
ruined  convents.  There  was  not  the  slightest  gleam  of 
vitality  in  his  countenance,  which  for  colour  and  rigidity 
might  have  been  of  stone,  and  which  was  as  rude  and 
battered  as  one  of  the  stone  heads  at  Icolmkill,  which  have 
braved  the  winds  of  twelve  hundred  years.  I continued 
gazing  on  his  face  till  I became  almost  alarmed,  concluding 
that  life  might  have  departed  from  its  harassed  and  fatigued 
tenement.  On  my  shaking  him  rather  roughly  by  the 
shoulder  he  slowly  awoke,  opening  his  eyes  with  a stare 
and  then  closing  them  again.  For  a few  moments  he  was 
evidently  unconscious  of  where  he  was.  On  my  shouting 
to  him,  however,  and  inquiring  whether  he  intended  to 
sleep  all  day  instead  of  conducting  me  to  Finisterra,  he 
dropped  upon  his  legs,  snatched  up  his  hat,  which  lay 
on  the  table,  and  instantly  ran  out  of  the  door,  exclaiming, 
“ Yes,  yes,  I remember — follow  me,  captain,  and  I will 
lead  you  to  Finisterra  in  no  time.”  I looked  after  him, 
and  perceived  that  he  was  hurrying  at  a considerable 
pace  in  the  direction  in  which  we  had  hitherto  been  pro- 
ceeding. “ Stop,”  said  I,  “stop!  will  you  leave  me  here 
with  the  pony?  Stop,  we  have  not  paid  the  reckoning. 
Stop ! ” He,  however,  never  turned  his  head  for  a moment, 
and  in  less  than  a minute  was  out  of  sight.  The  pony, 
which  was  tied  to  a crib  at  one  end  of  the  cabin,  began 
now  to  neigh  terrifically,  to  plunge,  and  to  erect  its  tail 
and  mane  in  a most  singular  manner.  It  tore  and  strained 
at  the  halter  till  I was  apprehensive  that  strangulation 
would  ensue.  “Woman,”' I exclaimed,  “where  are  you, 
and  what  is  the  meaning  of  all  this?  ” But  the  hostess 
had  likewise  disappeared,  and  though  I ran  about  the 
choza,  shouting  myself  hoarse,  no  answer  was  returned. 
The  pony  still  continued  to  scream  and  to  strain  at  the 
halter  more  violently  than  ever.  “ Am  I beset  with 
lunatics?  ” I cried,  and  flinging  down  a peseta  on  the  table, 
unloosed  the  halter,  and  attempted  to  introduce  the  bit 
into  the  mouth  of  the  animal.  This,  however,  I found 
impossible  to  effect.  Released  from  the  halter,  the  pony 
made  at  once  for  the  door,  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts  which 
I could  make  to  detain  it.  “ If  you  abandon  me,”  said  I, 
“ I am  in  a pretty  situation;  but  there  is  a remedy  for 


272 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


everything!  ” with  which  words  I sprang  into  the  saddle, 
and  in  a moment  more  the  creature  was  bearing  me  at  a 
rapid  gallop  in  the  direction,  as  I supposed,  of  Finisterra. 
My  position,  however  diverting  to  the  reader,  was  rather 
critical  to  myself.  I was  on  the  back  of  a spirited  animal, 
over  which  I had  no  control,  dashing  along  a dangerous 
and  unknown  path.  I could  not  discover  the  slightest 
vestige  of  my  guide,  nor  did  I pass  anyone  from  whom  I 
could  derive  any  information.  Indeed,  the  speed  of  the 
animal  was  so  great,  that  even  in  the  event  of  my  meeting 
or  overtaking  a passenger,  I could  scarcely  have  hoped 
to  exchange  a word  with  him.  “ Is  the  pony  trained  to 
this  work?  ” said  I mentally.  “ Is  he  carrying  me  to  some 
den  of  banditti,  where  my  throat  will  be  cut,  or  does  he 
follow  his  master  by  instinct?  ” Both  of  these  suspicions 
I however  soon  abandoned;  the  pony's  speed  relaxed,  he 
appeared  to  have  lost  the  road.  Fie  looked  about  uneasily: 
at  last,  coming  to  a sandy  spot,  he  put  his  nostrils  to  the 
ground,  and  then  suddenly  flung  himself  down,  and  wallowed 
in  true  pony  fashion.  I was  not  hurt,  and  instantly  made 
use  of  this  opportunity  to  slip  the  bit  into  his  mouth,  which 
previously  had  been  dangling  beneath  his  neck;  I then 
remounted  in  quest  of  the  road. 

This  I soon  found,  and  continued  my  way  for  a con- 
siderable time.  The  path  lay  over  a moor,  patched  heath 
and  furze,  and  here  and  there  strewn  with  large  stones,  or 
rather  rocks.  The  sun  had  risen  high  in  the  firmament, 
and  burned  fiercely.  I passed  several  people,  men  and 
women,  who  gazed  at  me  with  surprise,  wondering,  probably, 
what  a person  of  my  appearance  could  be  about  without 
a guide  in  so  strange  a place.  I inquired  of  two  females 
whom  I met  whether  they  had  seen  my  guide;  but  they 
either  did  not  or  would  not  understand  me,  and  exchanging 
a few  words  with  each  other,  in  one  of  the  hundred  dialects 
of  the  Gallegan,  passed  on.  Having  crossed  the  moor, 
I came  rather  abruptly  upon  a convent,  overhanging  a 
deep  ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which  brawled  a rapid  stream. 

It  was  a beautiful  and  picturesque  spot:  the  sides  of 
the  ravine  were  thickly  clothed  with  wood,  and  on  the  other 
side  a tall,  black  hill  uplifted  itself.  The  edifice  was  large, 
and  apparently  deserted.  Passing  by  it,  I presently 
reached  a small  village,  as  deserted,  to  all  appearance,  as 
the  convent,  for  I saw  not  a single  individual,  nor  so  much 
as  a dog  to  welcome  me  with  his  bark.  I proceeded,  how- 
ever, until  I reached  a fountain,  the  waters  of  which  gushed 
from  a stone  pillar  into  a trough.  Seated  upon  this  last, 
his  arms  folded,  and  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  neighbouring 
mountain,  I beheld  a figure  which  still  frequently  recurs 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  273 

to  my  thoughts,  especially  when  asleep  and  oppressed  by 
the  nightmare.  This  figure  was  my  runaway  guide. 

Myself. — Good  day  to  you,  my  gentleman.  The  weather 
is  hot,  and  yonder  water  appears  delicious.  I am  almost 
tempted  to  dismount  and  regale  myself  with  a slight 
draught. 

Guide . — Your  worship  can  do  no  better.  The  day  is, 
as  you  say,  hot;  you  can  do  no  better  than  drink  a little 
of  this  water.  I have  myself  just  drunk.  I would  not, 
however,  advise  you  to  give  that  pony  any,  it  appears 
heated  and  blown. 

Myself. — It  may  well  be  so.  I have  been  galloping 
at  least  two  leagues  in  pursuit  of  a fellow  who  engaged 
to  guide  me  to  Finisterra,  but  who  deserted  me  in  a most 
singular  manner,  so  much  so,  that  I almost  believe  him 
to  be  a thief,  and  no  true  man.  You  do  not  happen  to 
have  seen  him? 

Guide. — What  kind  of  a man  might  he  be? 

Myself. — A short,  thick  fellow,  very  much  like  yourself, 
with  a hump  upon  his  back,  and,  excuse  me,  of  a very  ill- 
favoured  countenance. 

Guide. — Ha,  ha!  I know  him.  He  ran  with  me  to 
this  fountain,  where  he  has  just  left  me.  That  man,  Sir 
Cavalier,  is  no  thief.  If  he  is  any  thing  at  all,  he  is  a 
Nuveiro, — a fellow  who  rides  upon  the  clouds,  and  is 
occasionally  whisked  away  by  a gust  of  wind.  Should 
you  ever  travel  with  that  man  again,  never  allow  him 
more  than  one  glass  of  anise  at  a time,  or  he  will  infallibly 
mount  into  the  clouds  and  leave  you,  and  then  he  will 
ride  and  run  till  he  comes  to  a water  brook,  or  knocks  his 
head  against  a fountain — then  one  draught,  and  he  is 
himself  again.  So  you  are  going  to  Finisterra,  Sir  Cavalier. 
Now  it  is  singular  enough,  that  a cavalier  much  of  your 
appearance  engaged  me  to  conduct  him  there  this  morning. 
I however  lost  him  on  the  way.  So  it  appears  to  me  our 
best  plan  to  travel  together  until  you  find  your  own  guide 
and  I find  my  own  master. 

It  might  be  about  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  that 
we  reached  a long  and  ruinous  bridge,  seemingly  of  great 
antiquity,  and  which,  as  I was  informed  by  my  guide, 
was  called  the  bridge  of  Don  Alonzo.  It  crossed  a species 
of  creek,  or  rather  frith,  for  the  sea  was  at  no  considerable 
distance,  and  the  small  town  of  Noyo  lay  at  our  right. 
“ When  we  have  crossed  that  bridge,  captain,”  said  my 
guide,  “ we  shall  be  in  an  unknown  country,  for  I have 
never  been  farther  than  Noyo,  and  as  for  Finisterra,  so 
far  from  having  been  there,  I never  heard  of  such  a place; 
and  though  I have  inquired  of  two  or  three  people  since  we 


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have  been  upon  this  expedition,  they  know  as  little  about 
it  as  I do.  Taking  all  things,  however,  into  consideration, 
it  appears  to  me  that  the  best  thing  we  can  do  is  to  push 
forward  to  Corcuvion,  which  is  five  mad  leagues  from 
hence,  and  which  we  may  perhaps  reach  ere  nightfall,  if 
we  can  find  the  way  or  get  any  one  to  direct  us;  for,  as 
I told  you  before,  I know  nothing  about  it.”  “ To  fine 
hands  have  I confided  myself,”  said  I:  “ however,  we  had 
best,  as  you  say,  push  forward  to  Corcuvion,  where,  perad- 
venture,  we  may  hear  something  of  Finisterra,  and  find  a 
guide  to  conduct  us.”  Whereupon,  with  a hop,  skip,  and 
a jump,  he  again  set  forward  at  a rapid  pace,  stopping 
occasionally  at  a choza,  for  the  purpose,  I suppose,  of 
making  inquiries,  though  I understood  scarcely  anything 
of  the  jargon  in  which  he  addressed  the  people,  and  in 
which  they  answered  him. 

We  were  soon  in  an  extremely  wild  and  hilly  country, 
scrambling  up  and  down  ravines,  wading  brooks,  and 
scratching  our  hands  and  faces  with  brambles,  on  which 
grew  a plentiful  crop  of  wild  mulberries,  to  gather  some 
of  which  we  occasionally  made  a stop.  Owing  to  the 
roughness  of  the  way  we  made  no  great  progress.  The 
pony  followed  close  at  the  back  of  the  guide,  so  near, 
indeed,  that  its  nose  almost  touched  his  shoulder.  The 
country  grew  wilder  and  wilder,  and  since  we  had  passed 
a water  mill,  we  had  lost  all  trace  of  human  habitation. 
The  mill  stood  at  the  bottom  of  a valley  shaded  by  large 
trees,  and  its  wheels  were  turning  with  a dismal  and 
monotonous  noise.  “ Do  you  think  we  shall  reach 
Corcuvion  to-night?  ” said  I to  the  guide,  as  we  emerged 
from  this  valley  to  a savage  moor,  which  appeared  of 
almost  boundless  extent. 

Guide. — I do  not,  I do  not.  We  shall  in  no  manner 
reach  Corcuvion  to-night,  and  I by  no  means  like  the 
appearance  of  this  moor.  The  sun  is  rapidly  sinking,  and 
then,  if  there  come  on  a haze,  we  shall  meet  the  Estadea. 

Myself. — What  do  you  mean  by  the  Estadea? 

Guide . — What  do  I mean  by  the  Estadea?  My  master 
asks  me  what  I mean  by  the  Estadinha.*  I have  met 
the  Estadinha  but  once,  and  it  was  upon  a moor  some- 
thing like  this.  I was  in  company  with  several  women, 
and  a thick  haze  came  on,  and  suddenly  a thousand  lights 
shone  above  our  heads  in  the  haze,  and  there  was  a wild 
cry,  and  the  women  fell  to  the  ground  screaming  Estadea! 
Estadea ! and  I myself  fell  to  the  ground  crying  out  Estadinha ! 
The  Estadea  are  the  spirits  of  the  dead  which  ride  upon 

* I aha,  when  affixed  to  words,  serves  as  a diminutive.  It  is  much  in  use 
amongst  the  G-allegans. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


275 


the  haze,  bearing  candles  in  their  hands.  I tell  you  frankly, 
my  master,  that  if  we  meet  the  assembly  of  the  souls,  I 
shall  leave  you  at  once,  and  then  I shall  run  and  run  till 
I drown  myself  in  the  sea,  somewhere  about  Muros.  We 
shall  not  reach  Corcuvion  this  night;  my  only  hope  is  that 
we  may  find  some  choza  upon  these  moors,  where  we  may 
hide  our  heads  from  the  Estadinha. 

The  night  overtook  us  ere  we  had  traversed  the  moor; 
there  was,  however,  no  haze,  to  the  great  joy  of  my  guide, 
and  a corner  of  the  moon  partially  illumined  our  steps. 
Our  situation,  however,  was  dreary  enough:  we  were 

upon  the  wildest  heath  of  the  wildest  province  of  Spain, 
ignorant  of  our  way,  and  directing  our  course  we  scarcely 
knew  whither,  for  my  guide  repeatedly  declared  to  me, 
that  he  did  not  believe  that  such  a place  as  Finisterra 
existed,  or  if  it  did  exist,  it  was  some  bleak  mountain 
pointed  out  in  a map.  When  I reflected  on  the  character 
of  this  guide,  I derived  but  little  comfort  or  encouragement: 
he  was  at  best  evidently  half  witted,  and  was  by  his  own 
confession  occasionally  seized  with  paroxysms  which 
differed  from  madness  in  no  essential  respect;  his  wild 
escapade  in  the  morning  of  nearly  three  leagues,  without 
any  apparent  cause,  and  lastly  his  superstitious  and  frantic 
fears  of  meeting  the  souls  of  the  dead  upon  this  heath, 
in  which  event  he  intended,  as  he  himself  said,  to  desert 
me  and  make  for  the  sea,  operated  rather  powerfully  upon 
my  nerves.  I likewise  considered  that  it  was  quite  possible 
that  we  might  be  in  the  route  neither  of  Finisterra  nor 
Corcuvion,  and  I therefore  determined  to  enter  the  first 
cabin  at  which  we  should  arrive,  in  preference  to  running 
the  risk  of  breaking  our  necks  by  tumbling  down  some  pit 
or  precipice.  No  cabin,  however,  appeared  in  sight:  the 
moor  seemed  interminable,  and  we  wandered  on  until  the 
moon  disappeared,  and  we  were  left  in  almost  total  darkness. 

At  length  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a steep  ascent,  up 
which  a rough  and  broken  pathway  appeared  to  lead. 
“ Can  this  be  our  way?  ” said  I to  the  guide. 

“ There  appears  to  be  no  other  for  us,  captain,”  replied 
the  man;  “let  us  ascend  it  by  all  means,  and  when  we 
are  at  the  top,  if  the  sea  be  in  the  neighbourhood  we  shall 
see  it.” 

I then  dismounted,  for  to  ride  up  such  a pass  in  such 
darkness  would  have  been  madness.  We  clambered  up 
in  a line,  first  the  guide,  next  the  pony,  with  his  nose  as 
usual  on  his  master’s  shoulder,  of  whom  he  seemed  passion- 
ately fond,  and  I bringing  up  the  rear,  with  my  left  hand 
grasping  the  animal’s  tail.  We  had  many  a stumble,  and 
more  than  one  fall:  once,  indeed,  we  were  all  rolling  down 


276 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  side  of  the  hill  together.  In  about  twenty  minutes 
we  reached  the  summit,  and  looked  around  us,  but  no  sea 
was  visible:  a black  moor,  indistinctly  seen,  seemed  to 
spread  on  every  side. 

“ We  shall  have  to  take  up  our  quarters  here  till  morn- 
ing,said  I. 

Suddenly  my  guide  seized  me  by  the  hand:  “ There 
is  lume,  Senhor,”  said  he,  “ there  is  lume.”  I looked  in 
the  direction  in  which  he  pointed,  and,  after  straining 
my  eyes  for  some  time,  imagined  that  I perceived,  far  below 
and  at  some  distance,  a faint  glow.  “ That  is  lume,” 
shouted  the  guide,  “ and  it  proceeds  from  the  chimney  of 
a choza.” 

On  descending  the  eminence,  we  roamed  about  for 
a considerable  time,  until  we  at  last  found  ourselves  in 
the  midst  of  about  six  or  eight  black  huts.  “ Knock  at 
the  door  of  one  of  these,”  said  I to  the  guide,  “ and  inquire 
of  the  people  whether  they  can  shelter  us  for  the  night.” 
He  did  so,  and  a man  presently  made  his  appearance, 
bearing  in  his  hand  a lighted  firebrand. 

“ Can  you  shelter  a Cavalheiro  from  the  night  and  the 
Estadea?  ” said  my  guide. 

“ From  both,  I thank  God,”  said  the  man,  who  was  an 
athletic  figure,  without  shoes  and  stockings,  and  who, 
upon  the  whole,  put  me  much  in  mind  of  a Munster  peasant 
from  the  bogs.  “ Pray  enter,  gentlemen,  we  can  accommo- 
date you  both  and  your  cavalgadura  besides.” 

We  entered  the  choza,  which  consisted  of  three  com- 
partments; in  the  first  we  found  straw,  in  the  second 
cattle  and  ponies,  and  in  the  third  the  family,  consisting 
of  the  father  and  mother  of  the  man  who  admitted  us, 
and  his  wife  and  children. 

“ You  are  a Catalan,  sir  Cavalier,  and  are  going  to  your 
countryman  at  Corcuvion,”  said  the  man  in  tolerable 
Spanish.  “ Ah,  you  are  brave  people,  you  Catalans,  and 
fine  establishments  you  have  on  the  Gallegan  shores;  pity 
that  you  take  all  the  money  out  of  the  country.” 

Now,  under  all  circumstances,  I had  not  the  slightest 
objection  to  pass  for  a Catalan;  and  I rather  rejoiced 
that  these  wild  people  should  suppose  that  I had  powerful 
friends  and  countrymen  in  the  neighbourhood  who  were, 
perhaps,  expecting  me.  I therefore  favoured  their  mistake, 
and  began  with  a harsh  Catalan  accent  to  talk  of  the  fish 
of  Galicia,  and  the  high  duties  on  salt.  The  eye  of  my 
guide  was  upon  me  for  an  instant,  with  a singular  expression, 
half  serious,  half  droll;  he  however  said  nothing,  but 
slapped  his  thigh  as  usual,  and  with  a spring  nearly  touched 
the  roof  of  the  cabin  with  his  grotesque  head.  Upon 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


277 


inquiry,  I discovered  that  we  were  still  two  long  leagues 
distant  from  Corcuvion,  and  that  the  road  lay  over  moor 
and  hill,  and  was  hard  to  find.  Our  host  now  demanded 
whether  we  were  hungry,  and  upon  being  answered  in  the 
affirmative,  produced  about  a dozen  eggs  and  some  bacon. 
Whilst  our  supper  was  cooking,  a long  conversation  ensued 
between  my  guide  and  the  family,  but  as  it  was  carried 
on  in  Gallegan,  I tried  in  vain  to  understand  it.  I believe, 
however,  that  it  principally  related  to  witches  and  witch- 
craft, as  the  Estadea  was  frequently  mentioned.  After 
supper  I demanded  where  I could  rest:  whereupon  the 
host  pointed  to  a trap-door  in  the  roof,  saying  that  above 
there  was  a loft  where  I could  sleep  by  myself,  and  have 
clean  straw.  For  curiosity's  sake,  I asked  whether  there 
was  such  a thing  as  a bed  in  the  cabin. 

“ No,"  replied  the  man;  “ nor  nearer  than  Corcuvion.  I 
never  entered  one  in  my  life,  nor  any  one  of  my  family:  we 
sleep  around  the  hearth,  or  among  the  straw  with  the  cattle." 

I was  too  old  a traveller  to  complain,  but  forthwith 
ascended  by  a ladder  into  a species  of  loft,  tolerably  large 
and  nearly  empty,  where  I placed  my  cloak  beneath  my 
head,  and  lay  down  on  the  boards,  which  I preferred  to 
the  straw,  for  more  reasons  than  one.  I heard  the  people 
below  talking  in  Gallegan  for  a considerable  time,  and 
could  see  the  gleams  of  the  fire  through  the  interstices  of 
the  floor.  The  voices,  however,  gradually  died  away,  the 
fire  sank  low  and  could  no  longer  be  distinguished.  I 
dozed,  started,  dozed  again,  and  dropped  finally  into  a 
profound  sleep,  from  which  I was  only  roused  by  the 
crowing  of  the  second  cock. 


CHAPTER  XXX 

Autumnal  Morning — The  World’s  End — Corcuvion — Duyo — The  Cape — 
A Whale — The  Outer  Bay— The  Arrest — The  Fisher-Magistrate— 
Calros  Rey — Hard  of  Belief — Where  is  your  Passport? — The  Beach 
— A Mighty  Liberal — The  Handmaid — The  Grand  Baintham — 
Eccentric  Book — Hospitality. 

It  was  a beautiful  autumnal  morning  when  we  left  the 
choza  and  pursued  our  way  to  Corcuvion.  I satisfied  our 
host  by  presenting  him  with  a couple  of  pesetas,  and  he 
requested  as  a favour,  that  if  on  our  return  we  passed  that 
way,  and  were  overtaken  by  the  night,  we  would  again 
take  up  our  abode  beneath  his  roof.  This  I promised, 
at  the  same  time  determining  to  do  my  best  to  guard  against 


278 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  contingency;  as  sleeping  in  the  loft  of  a Gallegan  hut, 
though  preferable  to  passing  the  night  on  a moor  or 
mountain,  is  anything  but  desirable. 

So  we  again  started  at  a rapid  pace  along  rough  bridle- 
ways and  footpaths,  amidst  furze  and  brushwood.  In 
about  an  hour  we  obtained  a view  of  the  sea,  and  directed 
by  a lad,  whom  we  found  on  the  moor  employed  in  tending 
a few  miserable  sheep,  we  bent  our  course  to  the  north- 
west, and  at  length  reached  the  brow  of  an  eminence, 
where  we  stopped  for  some  time  to  survey  the  prospect 
which  opened  before  us. 

It  was  not  without  reason  that  the  Latins  gave  the 
name  of  Finnisterrse  to  this  district.  We  had  arrived 
exactly  at  such  a place  as  in  my  boyhood  I had  pictured 
to  myself  as  the  termination  of  the  world,  beyond  which 
there  was  a wild  sea,  or  abyss,  or  chaos.  I now  saw  far 
before  me  an  immense  ocean,  and  below  me  a long  and 
irregular  line  of  lofty  and  precipitous  coast.  Certainly 
in  the  whole  world  there  is  no  bolder  coast  than  the 
Gallegan  shore,  from  the  debouchement  of  the  Minho  to 
Cape  Finisterra.  It  consists  of  a granite  wall  of  savage 
mountains,  for  the  most  part  serrated  at  the  top,  and 
occasionally  broken,  where  bays  and  firths  like  those  of 
Vigo  and  Pontevedra  intervene,  running  deep  into  the 
land.  These  bays  and  firths  are  invariably  of  an  immense 
depth,  and  sufficiently  capacious  to  shelter  the  navies  of 
the  proudest  maritime  nations. 

There  is  an  air  of  stern  and  savage  grandeur  in  every- 
thing around,  which  strongly  captivates  the  imagination. 
This  savage  coast  is  the  first  glimpse  of  Spain  which  the 
voyager  from  the  north  catches,  or  he  who  has  ploughed 
his  way  across  the  wide  Atlantic:  and  well  does  it  seem 
to  realize  all  his  visions  of  this  strange  land.  “ Yes,”  he 
exclaims,  “ this  is  indeed  Spain — stern  flinty  Spain — land 
emblematic  of  those  spirits  to  which  she  has  given  birth. 
From  what  land  but  that  before  me  could  have  proceeded 
those  portentous  beings,  who  astounded  the  Old  World 
and  filled  the  New  with  horror  and  blood:  Alba  and  Philip, 
Cortez  and  Pizarro:  stern  colossal  spectres  looming  through 
the  gloom  of  bygone  years,  like  yonder  granite  mountains 
through  the  haze,  upon  the  eye  of  the  mariner.  Yes, 
yonder  is  indeed  Spain;  flinty,  indomitable  Spain;  land 
emblematic  of  its  sons!  ” 

As  for  myself,  when  I viewed  that  wide  ocean  and  its 
savage  shore,  I cried,  “ Such  is  the  grave,  and  such  are  its 
terrific  sides;  those  moors  and  wilds,  over  which  I have 
passed,  are  the  rough  and  dreary  journey  of  life.  Cheered 
with  hope,  we  struggle  along  through  all  the  difficulties  of 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


279 


moor,  bog,  and  mountain,  to  arrive  at — what?  The  grave 
and  its  dreary  sides.  Oh,  may  hope  not  desert  us  in  the 
last  hour:  hope  in  the  Redeemer  and  in  God!  " 

We  descended  from  the  eminence,  and  again  lost  sight 
of  the  sea  amidst  ravines  and  dingles,  amongst  which 
patches  of  pine  were  occasionally  seen.  Continuing  to 
descend,  we  at  last  came,  not  to  the  sea,  but  to  the  extremity 
of  a long  narrow  firth,  where  stood  a village  or  hamlet; 
whilst  at  a small  distance,  on  the  western  side  of  the  firth, 
appeared  one  considerably  larger,  which  was  indeed  almost 
entitled  to  the  appellation  of  town.  This  last  was  Cor- 
cuvion;  the  first,  if  I forget  not,  was  called  Ria  de  Silla. 
We  hastened  on  to  Corcuvion,  where  I bade  my  guide 
make  inquiries  respecting  Finisterra.  He  entered  the  door 
of  a wine-house,  from  which  proceeded  much  noise  and 
vociferation,  and  presently  returned,  informing  me  that 
the  village  of  Finisterra  was  distant  about  a league  and 
a half.  A man,  evidently  in  a state  of  intoxication,  followed 
him  to  the  door:  “ Are  you  bound  for  Finisterra,  Caval- 
heiros?  " he  shouted. 

“ Yes,  my  friend/'  I replied,  “ we  are  going  thither." 

“ Then  you  are  going  amongst  a flock  of  drunkards 
( fato  de  barrachos),”  he  answered.  “ Take  care  that  they 
do  not  play  you  a trick." 

We  passed  on,  and  striking  across  a sandy  peninsula 
at  the  back  of  the  town,  soon  reached  the  shore  of  an 
immense  bay,  the  north-westernmost  end  of  which  was 
formed  by  the  far-famed  cape  of  Finisterra,  which  we 
now  saw  before  us  stretching  far  into  the  sea. 

Along  a beach  of  dazzling  white  sand,  we  advanced 
towards  the  cape,  the  bourne  of  our  journey.  The  sun 
was  shining  brightly,  and  every  object  was  illumined  by 
his  beams.  The  sea  lay  before  us  like  a vast  mirror,  and 
the  waves  which  broke  upon  the  shore  were  so  tiny  as 
scarcely  to  produce  a murmur.  On  we  sped  along  the  deep 
winding  bay,  overhung  by  gigantic  hills  and  mountains. 
Strange  recollections  began  to  throng  upon  my  mind. 
It  was  upon  this  beach  that,  according  to  the  tradition  of 
all  ancient  Christendom,  Saint  James,  the  patron  saint  of 
Spain,  preached  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen  Spaniards. 
Upon  this  beach  had  once  stood  an  immense  commercial 
city,  the  proudest  in  all  Spain.  This  now  desolate  bay 
had  once  resounded  with  the  voices  of  myriads,  when  the 
keels  and  commerce  of  all  the  then  known  world  were 
wafted  to  Duyo. 

“ What  is  the  name  of  this  village?  " said  I to  a woman, 
as  we  passed  by  five  or  six  ruinous  houses  at  the  bend  of 
the  bay,  ere  we  entered  upon  the  peninsula  of  Finisterra. 


280 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


“ This  is  no  village,”  said  the  Gallegan,  “ this  is  no 
village,  Sir  Cavalier,  this  is  a city,  this  is  Duyo.” 

So  much  for  the  glory  of  the  world!  These  huts  were 
all  that  the  roaring  sea  and  the  tooth  of  time  had  left  of 
Duyo,  the  great  city!  Onward  now  to  Finisterra. 

It  was  midday  when  we  reached  the  village  of  Finis- 
terra,  consisting  of  about  one  hundred  houses,  and  built 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  peninsula,  just  before  it  rises 
into  the  huge  bluff  head  which  is  called  the  Cape.  We 
sought  in  vain  for  an  inn  or  venta,  where  we  might  stable 
our  beast;  at  one  moment  we  thought  that  we  had  found 
one,  and  had  even  tied  the  animal  to  the  manger.  Upon 
our  going  out,  however,  he  was  instantly  untied  and  driven 
forth  into  the  street.  The  few  people  whom  we  saw 
appeared  to  gaze  upon  us  in  a singular  manner.  We, 
however,  took  little  notice  of  these  circumstances,  and 
proceeded  along  the  straggling  street  until  we  found  shelter 
in  the  house  of  a Castilian  shopkeeper,  whom  some  chance 
had  brought  to  this  corner  of  Galicia, — this  end  of  the 
world.  Our  first  care  was  to  feed  the  animal,  who  now 
began  to  exhibit  considerable  symptoms  of  fatigue.  We 
then  requested  some  refreshment  for  ourselves;  and  in 
about  an  hour  a tolerably  savoury  fish,  weighing  about 
three  pounds,  and  fresh  from  the  bay,  was  prepared  for 
us  by  an  old  woman  who  appeared  to  officiate  as  house- 
keeper. Having  finished  our  meal,  I and  my  uncouth 
companion  went  forth  and  prepared  to  ascend  the  mountain. 

We  stopped  to  examine  a small  dismantled  fort  or 
battery  facing  the  bay;  and  whilst  engaged  in  this  examina- 
tion, it  more  than  once  occurred  to  me  that  we  were  our- 
selves the  objects  of  scrutiny  and  investigation:  indeed 
I caught  a glimpse  of  more  than  one  countenance  peering 
upon  us  through  the  holes  and  chasms  of  the  walls.  We 
now  commenced  ascending  Finisterra;  and  making 
numerous  and  long  detours,  we  wound  our  way  up  its 
flinty  sides.  The  sun  had  reached  the  top  of  heaven, 
whence  he  showered  upon  us  perpendicularly  his  brightest 
and  fiercest  rays.  My  boots  were  torn,  my  feet  cut,  and 
the  perspiration  streamed  from  my  brow.  To  my  guide, 
however,  the  ascent  appeared  to  be  neither  toilsome  nor 
difficult.  The  heat  of  the  day  for  him  had  no  terrors, 
no  moisture  was  wrung  from  his  tanned  countenance ; 
he  drew  not  one  short  breath;  and  hopped  upon  the  stones 
and  rocks  with  all  the  provoking  agility  of  a mountain  goat. 
Before  we  had  accomplished  one  half  of  the  ascent,  I felt 
myself  quite  exhausted.  I reeled  and  staggered.  “ Cheer 
up,  master  mine,  be  of  good  cheer,  and  have  no  care,” 
said  the  guide.  “ Yonder  I see  a wall  of  stones;  lie  down 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


281 


beneath  it  in  the  shade.”  He  put  his  long  and  strong  arm 
round  my  waist,  and  though  his  stature  compared  with 
mine  was  that  of  a dwarf,  he  supported  me,  as  if  I had 
been  a child,  to  a rude  wall  which  seemed  to  traverse 
the  greatest  part  of  the  hill,  and  served  probably  as  a 
kind  of  boundary.  It  was  difficult  to  find  a shady  spot: 
at  last  he  perceived  a small  chasm,  perhaps  scooped  by 
some  shepherd  as  a couch,  in  which  to  enjoy  his  siesta. 
In  this  he  laid  me  gently  down,  and  taking  off  his  enormous 
hat,  commenced  fanning  me  with  great  assiduity.  By 
degrees  I revived,  and  after  having  rested  for  a considerable 
time,  I again  attempted  the  ascent,  which,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  my  guide,  I at  length  accomplished. 

We  were  now  standing  at  a great  altitude  between 
two  bays:  the  wilderness  of  waters  before  us.  Of  all  the 
ten  thousand  barks  which  annually  plough  those  seas 
in  sight  of  that  old  cape,  not  one  was  to  be  descried.  It 
was  a blue  shiny  waste,  broken  by  no  object  save  the  black 
head  of  a spermaceti  whale,  which  would  occasionally 
show  itself  at  the  top,  casting  up  thin  jets  of  brine.  The 
principal  bay,  that  of  Finisterra,  as  far  as  the  entrance, 
was  beautifully  variegated  by  an  immense  shoal  of  sardinhas, 
on  whose  extreme  skirts  the  monster  was  probably  feasting. 
From  the  northern  side  of  the  cape  we  looked  down  upon 
a smaller  bay,  the  shore  of  which  was  overhung  by  rocks 
of  various  and  grotesque  shapes;  this  is  called  the  outer 
bay,  or,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  Praia  do  mar  de 
fora  : a fearful  place  in  seasons  of  wind  and  tempest,  when 
the  long  swell  of  the  Atlantic  pouring  in,  is  broken  into 
surf  and  foam  by  the  sunken  rocks  with  which  it  abounds. 
Even  in  the  calmest  day  there  is  a rumbling  and  a hollow 
roar  in  that  bay  which  fill  the  heart  with  uneasy  sensations. 

On  all  sides  there  was  grandeur  and  sublimity.  After 
gazing  from  the  summit  of  the  Cape  for  nearly  an  hour 
we  descended. 

On  reaching  the  house  where  we  had  taken  up  our 
temporary,  habitation,  we  perceived  that  the  portal  was 
occupied  by  several  men,  some  of  whom  were  reclining 
on  the  floor  drinking  wine  out  of  small  earthen  pans, 
which  are  much  used  in  this  part  of  Galicia.  With  a 
civil  salutation  I passed  on,  and  ascended  the  staircase 
to  the  room  in  which  we  had  taken  our  repast.  Here  there 
was  a rude  and  dirty  bed,  on  which  I flung  myself,  ex- 
hausted with  fatigue.  I determined  to  take  a little  repose, 
and  in  the  evening  to  call  the  people  of  the  place  together, 
to  read  a few  chapters  of  the  Scripture,  and  then  to  address 
them  with  a little  Christian  exhortation.  I was  soon  asleep, 
but  my  slumbers  were  by  no  means  tranquil.  I thought 


282 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


I was  surrounded  with  difficulties  of  various  kinds  amongst 
rocks  and  ravines,  vainly  endeavouring  to  extricate  myself ; 
uncouth  visages  showed  themselves  amidst  the  trees  and 
in  the  hollows,  thrusting  out  cloven  tongues  and  uttering 
angry  cries.  I looked  around  for  my  guide,  but  could  not 
find  him;  methought,  however,  that  I heard  his  voice 
down  a deep  dingle.  He  appeared  to  be  talking  of  me. 
How  long  I might  have  continued  in  these  wild  dreams 
I know  not.  I was  suddenly,  however,  seized  roughly 
by  the  shoulder  and  nearly  dragged  from  the  bed.  I 
looked  up  in  amazement,  and  by  the  light  of  the  descending 
sun  I beheld  hanging  over  me  a wild  and  uncouth  figure; 
it  was  that  of  an  elderly  man,  built  as  strong  as  a giant, 
with  much  beard  and  whiskers,  and  huge  bushy  eyebrows, 
dressed  in  the  habiliments  of  a fisherman;  in  his  hand  was 
a rusty  musket. 

Myself. — Who  are  you  and  what  do  you  want? 

Figure. — Who  I am  matters  but  little.  Get  up  and 
follow  me;  it  is  you  I want. 

Myself. — By  what  authority  do  you  thus  presume  to 
interfere  with  me? 

Figure. — By  the  authority  of  the  justicia  of  Finisterra. 
Follow  me  peaceably,  Galros,  or  it  will  be  the  worse  for  you. 

“ Galros,”  said  I,  “ what  does  the  person  mean?  ” 
I thought  it,  however,  most  prudent  to  obey  his  command, 
and  followed  him  down  the  staircase.  The  shop  and  the 
portal  were  now  thronged  with  the  inhabitants  of  Finisterra, 
men,  women,  and  children;  the  latter  for  the  most  part 
in  a state  of  nudity,  and  with  bodies  wet  and  dripping, 
having  been  probably  summoned  in  haste  from  their 
gambols  in  the  brine.  Through  this  crowd  the  figure 
whom  I have  attempted  to  describe  pushed  his  way  with 
an  air  of  authority. 

On  arriving  in  the  street,  he  laid  his  heavy  hand  upon 
my  arm,  not  roughly  however.  “ It  is  Calros!  it  is  Calros!  ” 
said  a hundred  voices;  “ he  has  come  to  Finisterra  at  last, 
and  the  justicia  have  now  got  hold  of  him.”  Wondering 
what  all  this  could  mean,  I attended  my  strange  conductor 
down  the  street.  As  we  proceeded,  the  crowd  increased 
every  moment,  following  and  vociferating.  Even  the  sick 
were  brought  to  the  door  to  obtain  a view  of  what  was 
going  forward  and  a glance  at  the  redoubtable  Calros. 
I was  particularly  struck  by  the  eagerness  displayed  by 
one  man,  a cripple,  who,  in  spite  of  the  entreaties  of  his 
wife,  mixed  with  the  crowd,  and  having  lost  his  crutch, 
hopped  forward  on  one  leg,  exclaiming, — “ Carracho ! 
tambien  voy  yo  ! ” 

We  at  last  reached  a house  of  rather  larger  size  than 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


283 


the  rest;  my  guide  having  led  me  into  a long  low  room, 
placed  me  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  and  then  hurrying 
to  the  door,  he  endeavoured  to  repulse  the  crowd  who 
strove  to  enter  with  us.  This  he  effected,  though  not 
without  considerable  difficulty,  being  once  or  twice  com- 
pelled to  have  recourse  to  the  butt  of  his  musket,  to  drive 
back  unauthorized  intruders.  I now  looked  round  the 
room.  It  was  rather  scantily  furnished:  I could  see 

nothing  but  some  tubs  and  barrels,  the  mast  of  a boat, 
and  a sail  or  two.  Seated  upon  the  tubs  were  three  or 
four  men  coarsely  dressed,  like  fishermen  or  shipwrights. 
The  principal  personage  was  a surly  ill-tempered-looking 
fellow  of  about  thirty-five,  whom  eventually  I discovered 
to  be  the  alcalde  of  Finisterra,  and  lord  of  the  house  in 
which  we  now  were.  In  a corner  I caught  a glimpse  of 
my  guide,  who  was  evidently  in  durance,  two  stout  fishermen 
standing  before  him,  one  with  a musket  and  the  other  with 
a boat-hook.  After  I had  looked  about  me  for  a minute, 
the  alcalde,  giving  his  whiskers  a twist,  thus  addressed  me: — 

“ Who  are  you,  where  is  your  passport,  and  what 
brings  you  to  Finisterra?  99 

Myself . — I am  an  Englishman.  Here  is  my  passport, 
and  I came  to  see  Finisterra. 

This  reply  seemed  to  discomfit  them  for  a moment. 
They  looked  at  each  other,  then  at  my  passport.  At 
length  the  alcalde,  striking  it  with  his  finger,  bellowed  forth: 

“This  is  no  Spanish  passport;  it  appears  to  be  written 
in  French.” 

Myself. — I have  already  told  you  that  I am  a foreigner. 
I of  course  carry  a foreign  passport. 

Alcalde . — Then  you  mean  to  assert  that  you  are  not 
Calros  Rey. 

Myself. — I never  heard  before  of  such  a king,  nor 
indeed  of  such  a name. 

Alcalde. — Hark  to  the  fellow:  he  has  the  audacity  to  say 
that  he  has  never  heard  of  Calros  the  pretender,  who  calls 
himself  king. 

Myself. — If  you  mean  by  Calros,  the  pretender  Don 
Carlos,  all  I can  reply  is,  that  you  can  scarcely  be  serious. 
You  might  as  well  assert  that  yonder  poor  fellow,  my 
guide,  whom  I see  you  have  made  prisoner,  is  his  nephew, 
the  infante  Don  Sebastian. 

Alcalde. — See,  you  have  betrayed  yourself;  that  is  the 
very  person  we  suppose  him  to  be. 

Myself. — It  is  true  that  they  are  both  hunchbacks. 
But  how  can  I be  like  Don  Carlos?  I have  nothing  the 
appearance  of  a Spaniard,  and  am  nearly  a foot  taller 
than  the  pretender. 


284 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Alcalde. — That  makes  no  difference;  you  of  course 
carry  many  waistcoats  about  you,  by  means  of  which 
you  disguise  yourself,  and  appear  tall  or  low  according 
to  your  pleasure. 

This  last  was  so  conclusive  an  argument  that  I had 
of  course  nothing  to  reply  to  it.  The  alcalde  looked 
around  him  in  triumph,  as  if  he  had  made  some  notable 
discovery.  " Yes,  it  is  Calros;  it  is  Calros,"  said  the  crowd 
at  the  door.  “ It  will  be  as  well  to  have  these  men  shot 
instantly,"  continued  the  alcalde;  “ if  they  are  not  the  two 
pretenders,  they  are  at  any  rate  two  of  the  factious/' 

“ I am  by  no  means  certain  that  they  are  either  one 
or  the  other,"  said  a gruff  voice. 

The  justicia  of  Finisterra  turned  their  eyes  in  the 
direction  from  which  these  words  proceeded,  and  so  did 
I.  Our  glances  rested  upon  the  figure  who  held  watch 
at  the  door.  He  had  planted  the  barrel  of  his  musket  on 
the  floor,  and  was  now  leaning  his  chin  against  the  butt. 

“ I am  by  no  means  certain  that  they  are  either  one 
or  the  other,"  repeated  he,  advancing  forward.  “ I have 
been  examining  this  man,"  pointing  to  myself,  “ and 
listening  whilst  he  spoke,  and  it  appears  to  me  that  after 
all  he  may  prove  an  Englishman;  he  has  their  very  look 
and  voice.  Who  knows  the  English  better  than  Antonio 
de  la  Trava,  and  who  has  a better  right?  Has  he  not  sailed 
in  their  ships;  has  he  not  eaten  their  biscuit;  and  did  he 
not  stand  by  Nelson  when  he  was  shot  dead?  " 

Here  the  alcalde  became  violently  incensed.  “ He  is 
no  more  an  Englishman  than  yourself,"  he  exclaimed; 
“if  he  were  an  Englishman  would  he  have  come  in  this 
manner,  skulking  across  the  land?  Not  so  I trow.  He 
would  have  come  in  a ship,  recommended  to  some  of  us,  or 
to  the  Catalans.  He  would  have  come  to  trade,  to  buy;  but 
nobody  knows  him  in  Finisterra,  nor  does  he  know  anybody: 
and  the  first  thing,  moreover,  that  he  does  when  he  reaches 
this  place  is  to  inspect  the  fort,  and  to  ascend  the  mountain 
where,  no  doubt,  he  has  been  marking  out  a camp.  What 
brings  him  to  Finisterra  if  he  is  neither  Calros  nor  a bribon 
of  a faccioso?  " 

I felt  that  there  was  a good  deal  of  justice  in  some  of 
these  remarks,  and  I was  aware,  for  the  first  time,  that  I 
had,  indeed,  committed  a great  imprudence  in  coming 
to  this  wild  place,  and  among  these  barbarous  people, 
without  being  able  to  assign  any  motive  which  could 
appear  at  all  valid  in  their  eyes.  I endeavoured  to  convince 
the  alcalde  that  I had  come  across  the  country  for  the 
purpose  of  making  myself  acquainted  with  the  many 
remarkable  objects  which  it  contained,  and  of  obtaining 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


285 


information  respecting  the  character  and  condition  of  the 
inhabitants.  He  could  understand  no  such  motives. 
“ What  did  you  ascend  the  mountain  for?  ’’  “ To  see 

prospects/'  “ Disparate!  I have  lived  at  Finisterra  forty 
years  and  never  ascended  that  mountain.  I would  not  do 
it  in  a day  like  this  for  two  ounces  of  gold.  You  went  to 
take  altitudes,  and  to  mark  out  a camp."  I had,  however, 
a staunch  friend  in  old  Antonio,  who  insisted,  from  his 
knowledge  of  the  English,  that  all  I had  said  might  very 
possibly  be  true.  “ The  English,"  said  he,  “ have  more 
money  than  they  know  what  to  do  with,  and  on  that 
account  they  wander  all  over  the  world,  paying  dearly 
for  what  no  other  people  care  a groat  for."  He  then 
proceeded,  notwithstanding  the  frowns  of  the  alcalde,  to 
examine  me  in  the  English  language.  His  own  entire 
knowledge  of  this  tongue  was  confined  to  two  words — knife 
and  fork , which  words  I rendered  into  Spanish  by  their 
equivalents,  and  was  forthwith  pronounced  an  Englishman 
by  the  old  fellow,  who,  brandishing  his  musket,  exclaimed: — 

“ This  man  is  not  Galros;  he  is  what  he  declares  him- 
self to  be,  an  Englishman,  and  whosoever  seeks  to  injure 
him,  shall  have  to  do  with  Antonio  de  la  Trava  el  valiente 
de  Finisterra."  No  person  sought  to  impugn  this  verdict, 
and  it  was  at  length  determined  that  I should  be  sent  to 
Corcuvion,  to  be  examined  by  the  alcalde  mayor  of  the 
district.  “ But,"  said  the  alcalde  of  Finisterra,  “ what 
is  to  be  done  with  the  other  fellow?  He  at  least  is  no 
Englishman.  Bring  him  forward,  and  let  us  hear  what 
he  has  to  say  for  himself.  Now,  fellow,  who  are  you, 
and  what  is  your  master?  " 

Guide. — I am  Sebastianillo,  a poor  broken  mariner  of 
Padron,  and  my  master  for  the  present  is  the  gentleman 
whom  you  see,  the  most  valiant  and  wealthy  of  all  the 
English.  He  has  two  ships  at  Vigo  laden  with  riches. 
I told  you  so  when  you  first  seized  me  up  there  in  our  posada. 

Alcalde. — Where  is  your  passport? 

Guide.-^-l  have  no  passport.  Who  would  think  of  bring- 
ing a passport  to  such  a place  as  this,  where  I don’t  suppose 
there  are  two  individuals  who  can  read?  I have  no  pass- 
port; my  master’s  passport  of  course  includes  me. 

Alcalde . — It  does  not.  And  since  you  have  no  passport, 
and  have  confessed  that  your  name  is  Sebastian,  you  shall 
be  shot.  Antonio  de  la  Trava,  do  you  and  the  musketeers 
lead  this  Sebastianillo  forth,  and  shoot  him  before  the  door. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava. — With  much  pleasure,  Sehor 
Alcalde,  since  you  order  it.  With  respect  to  this  fellow, 
I shall  not  trouble  myself  to  interfere.  He  at  least  is  no 
Englishman.  He  has  more  the  look  of  a wizard  or  nuveiro ; 


286 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


one  of  those  devils  who  raise  storms  and  sink  launches. 
Moreover,  he  says  he  is  from  Padron,  and  those  of  that 
place  are  all  thieves  and  drunkards.  They  once  played 
me  a trick,  and  I would  gladly  be  at  the  shooting  of  the 
whole  pueblo. 

I now  interfered,  and  said  that  if  they  shot  the  guide 
they  must  shoot  me  too;  expatiating  at  the  same  time 
on  the  cruelty  and  barbarity  of  taking  away  the  life  of  a 
poor  unfortunate  fellow  who,  as  might  be  seen  at  the  first 
glance,  was  only  half  witted;  adding,  moreover,  that  if 
any  person  was  guilty  in  this  case  it  was  myself,  as  the 
other  could  only  be  considered  in  the  light  of  a servant 
acting  under  my  orders. 

“ The  safest  plan  after  all,”  said  the  alcalde,  “ appears 
to  be,  to  send  you  both  prisoners  to  Corcuvion,  where 
the  head  alcalde  can  dispose  of  you  as  he  thinks  proper. 
You  must,  however,  pay  for  your  escort;  for  it  is  not  to  be 
supposed  that  the  housekeepers  of  Finisterra  have  nothing 
else  to  do  than  to  ramble  about  the  country  with  every 
chance  fellow  who  finds  his  way  to  this  town.”  “ As  for 
that  matter,”  said  Antonio,  “ I will  take  charge  of  them 
both.  I am  the  valiente  of  Finisterra,  and  fear  no  two 
men  living.  Moreover,  I am  sure  that  the  captain  here 
will  make  it  worth  my  while,  else  he  is  no  Englishman. 
Therefore  let  us  be  quick  and  set  out  for  Corcuvion  at  once, 
as  it  is  getting  late.  First  of  all,  however,  captain,  I must 
search  you  and  your  baggage.  You  have  no  arms,  of 
course?  But  it  is  best  to  make  all  sure.” 

Long  ere  it  was  dark  I found  myself  again  on  the  pony, 
in  company  with  my  guide,  wending  our  way  along  the 
beach  in  the  direction  of  Corcuvion.  Antonio  de  la  Trava 
tramped  heavily  on  before,  his  musket  on  his  shoulder. 

Myself. — Are  you  not  afraid,  Antonio,  to  be  thus  alone 
with  two  prisoners,  one  of  whom  is  on  horseback?  If  we 
were  to  try,  I think  we  could  overpower  you. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava . — I am  the  valiente  de  Finisterra, 
and  I fear  no  odds. 

Myself. — Why  do  you  call  yourself  the  valiente  of 
Finisterra? 

Antonio  de  la  Trava . — The  whole  district  call  me  so. 
When  the  French  came  to  Finisterra,  and  demolished 
the  fort,  three  perished  by  my  hand.  I stood  on  the 
mountain,  up  where  I saw  you  scrambling  to-day.  I 
continued  firing  at  the  enemy,  until  three  detached  them- 
selves in  pursuit  of  me.  The  fools!  two  perished  amongst 
the  rocks  by  the  fire  of  this  musket,  and  as  for  the  third, 
I beat  his  head  to  pieces  with  the  stock.  It  is  on  that 
account  that  they  call  me  the  valiente  of  Finisterra. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


287 


Myself. — How  came  you  to  serve  with  the  English 
fleet?  I think  I heard  you  say  that  you  were  present 
when  Nelson  fell. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava. — I was  captured  by  your  country- 
men, captain;  and  as  I had  been  a sailor  from  my  childhood, 
they  were  glad  of  my  services.  I was  nine  months  with 
them,  and  assisted  at  Trafalgar.  I saw  the  English  admiral 
die.  You  have  something  of  his  face,  and  your  voice, 
when  you  spoke,  sounded  in  my  ears  like  his  own.  I love 
the  English,  and  on  that  account  I saved  you.  Think  not 
that  I would  toil  along  these  sands  with  you  if  you  were 
one  of  my  own  countrymen.  Here  we  are  at  Duyo,  captain. 
Shall  we  refresh? 

We  did  refresh,  or  rather  Antonio  de  la  Trava  refreshed, 
swallowing  pan  after  pan  of  wine,  with  a thirst  which 
seemed  unquenchable.  “ That  man  was  a greater  wizard 
than  myself,”  whispered  Sebastian,  my  guide,  “ who  told 
us  that  the  drunkards  of  Finisterra  would  play  us  a trick.” 
At  length  the  old  hero  of  the  Cape  slowly  rose,  saying, 
that  we  must  hasten  on  to  Corcuvion,  or  the  night  would 
overtake  us  by  the  way. 

“ What  kind  of  person  is  the  alcalde  to  whom  you  are 
conducting  me?  ” said  I. 

“ Oh,  very  different  from  him  of  Finisterra,”  replied 
Antonio.  “ This  is  a young  Senorito,  lately  arrived  from 
Madrid.  Fie  is  not  even  a Gallegan.  He  is  a mighty 
liberal,  and  it  is  owing  chiefly  to  his  orders  that  we  have 
lately  been  so  much  on  the  alert.  It  is  said  that  the 
Carlists  are  meditating  a descent  on  these  parts  of  Galicia. 
Let  them  only  come  to  Finisterra,  we  are  liberals  there  to 
a man,  and  the  old  valiente  is  ready  to  play  the  same  part  as 
in  the  time  of  the  French.  But,  as  I was  telling  you  before, 
the  alcalde  to  whom  I am  conducting  you  is  a young  man, 
and  very  learned,  and  if  he  thinks  proper,  he  can  speak 
English  to  you,  even  better  than  myself,  notwithstanding 
I was  a friend  of  Nelson,  and  fought  by  his  side  at  Trafalgar.” 

It  was  dark  night  before  we  reached  Corcuvion.  Antonio 
again  stopped  to  refresh  at  a wine-shop,  after  which  he 
conducted  us  to  the  house  of  the  alcalde.  His  steps  were 
by  this  time  not  particularly  steady,  and  on  arriving  at 
the  gate  of  the  house,  he  stumbled  over  the  threshold  and 
fell.  He  got  up  with  an  oath,  and  instantly  commenced 
thundering  at  the  door  with  the  stock  of  his  musket.  “ Who 
is  it?  ” at  length  demanded  a soft  female  voice  in  Gallegan. 
“ The  valiente  of  Finisterra,”  replied  Antonio;  whereupon 
the  gate  was  unlocked,  and  we  beheld  before  us  a very 
pretty  female  with  a candle  in  her  hand.  “ What  brings 
you  here  so  late,  Antonio?  ” she  inquired.  “ I bring 


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two  prisoners,  mi  pulida,”  replied  Antonio.  “ Ave  Maria!  ” 
she  exclaimed,  “ I hope  they  will  do  no  harm.”  “ I will 
answer  for  one,”  replied  the  old  man;  “ but  as  for  the 
other,  he  is  a nuveiro,  and  has  sunk  more  ships  than  all 
his  brethren  in  Galicia.  But  be  not  afraid,  my  beauty,” 
he  continued,  as  the  female  made  the  sign  of  the  cross: 
“ first  lock  the  gate,  and  then  show  me  the  way  to  the 
alcalde.  I have  much  to  tell  him.”  The  gate  was  locked, 
and  bidding  us  stay  below  in  the  court-yard,  Antonio 
followed  the  young  woman  up  a stone  stair,  whilst  we 
remained  in  darkness  below. 

After  the  lapse  of  about  a quarter  of  an  hour  we  again 
saw  the  candle  gleam  upon  the  staircase,  and  the  young 
female  appeared.  Coming  up  to  me,  she  advanced  the 
candle  to  my  features,  on  which  she  gazed  very  intently. 
After  a long  scrutiny  she  went  to  my  guide,  and  having 
surveyed  him  still  more  fixedly,  she  turned  to  me,  and 
said,  in  her  best  Spanish,  “ Senhor  Cavalier,  I congratulate 
you  on  your  servant.  He  is  the  best-looking  mozo*1ft|kll 
Galicia.  Yaya!  if  he  had  but  a coat  to  his  back,  and  did 
not  go  barefoot,  I would  accept  him  at  once  as  a novio; 
but  I have  unfortunately  made  a vow  never  to  marry  a 
poor  man,  but  only  one  who  has  got  a heavy  purse  and  can 
buy  me  fine  clothes.  So  you  are  a Carlist,  I suppose? 
Yaya!  I do  not  like  you  the  worse  for  that.  But,  being  so, 
how  went  you  to  Finisterra,  where  they  are  all  Christinos 
and  negros?  Why  did  you  not  go  to  my  village?  None 
would  have  meddled  with  you  there.  Those  of  my  village 
are  of  a different  stamp  to  the  drunkards  of  Finisterra. 
Those  of  my  village  never  interfere  with  honest  people. 
Vaya!  how  I hate  that  drunkard  of  Finisterra  who  brought 
you,  he  is  so  old  and  ugly;  were  it  not  for  the  love  which 
I bear  to  the  Senhor  Alcalde,  I would  at  once  unlock  the 
gate  and  bid  you  go  forth,  you  and  your  servant,  the  buen 
mozo.” 

Antonio  now  descended.  “ Follow  me,”  said  he;  “ his 
worship  the  alcalde  will  be  ready  to  receive  you  in  a 
moment.”  Sebastian  and  myself  followed  him  upstairs 
to  a room  where,  seated  behind  a table,  we  beheld  a young 
man  of  low  stature  but  handsome  features  and  very  fashion- 
ably dressed.  He  appeared  to  be  inditing  a letter,  which, 
when  he  had  concluded,  he  delivered  to  a secretary  to  be 
transcribed.  He  then  looked  at  me  for  a moment  fixedly, 
and  the  following  conversation  ensued  between  us: — 

Alcalde—  I see  that  you  are  an  Englishman,  and  my 
friend  Antonio  here  informs  me  that  you  have  been  arrested 
at  Finisterra. 

Myself. — Tie  tells  you  true;  and  but  for  him  I believe 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  289 

that  I should  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  those  savage 
fishermen. 

Alcalde . — The  inhabitants  of  Finisterra  are  brave, 
and  are  all  liberals.  Allow  me  to  look  at  your  passport? 
Yes,  all  in  form.  Truly  it  was  very  ridiculous  that  they 
should  have  arrested  you  as  a Garlist. 

Myself. — Not  only  as  a Garlist,  but  as  Don  Carlos 
himseif. 

Alcalde. — Oh!  most  ridiculous;  mistake  a countryman 
of  the  grand  Baintham  for  such  a Goth! 

Myself. — Excuse  me,  Sir,  you  speak  of  the  grand 
somebody. 

Alcalde. — The  grand  Baintham.  He  who  has  invented 
laws  for  all  the  world.  I hope  shortly  to  see  them  adopted 
in  this  unhappy  country  of  ours. 

Myself. — Oh!  you  mean  Jeremy  Bentham.  Yes!  a 
very  remarkable  man  in  his  way. 

Alcalde. — In  his  way!  in  all  ways.  The  most  universal 
genius  which  the  world  ever  produced: — a Solon,  a Plato, 
and  a Lope  de  Vega. 

Myself. — I have  never  read  his  writings.  I have  no 
doubt  that  he  was  a Solon;  and  as  you  say,  a Plato.  I 
should  scarcely  have  thought,  however,  that  he  could  be 
ranked  as  a poet  with  Lope  de  Vega. 

Alcalde. — How  surprising!  I see,  indeed,  that  you 
know  nothing  of  his  writings,  though  an  Englishman. 
Now,  here  am  I,  a simple  alcalde  of  Galicia,  yet  I possess 
all  the  writings  of  Baintham  on  that  shelf,  and  I study 
them  day  and  night. 

Myself. — You  doubtless,  Sir,  possess  the  English 
language. 

Alcalde. — I do.  I mean  that  part  of  it  which  is  con- 
tained in  the  writings  of  Baintham.  I am  most  truly 
glad  to  see  a countryman  of  his  in  these  Gothic  wildernesses. 
I understand  and  appreciate  your  motives  for  visiting 
them:  excuse  the  incivility  and  rudeness  which  you  have 
experienced.  But  we  will  endeavour  to  make  you  repara- 
tion. You  are  this  moment  free:  but  it  is  late;  I must 
find  you  a lodging  for  the  night.  I know  one  close  by 
which  will  just  suit  you.  Let  us  repair  thither  this  moment. 
Stay,  I think  I see  a book  in  your  hand. 

Myself . — The  New  Testament. 

Alcalde. — What  book  is  that? 

Myself. — A portion  of  the  sacred  writings,  the  Bible. 

Alcalde : — Why  do  you  carry  such  a book  with  you? 

Myself. — One  of  my  principal  motives  in  visiting 
Finisterra  was  to  carry  this  book  to  that  wild  place. 

Alcalde. — Ha,  ha!  how  very  singular.  Yes,  I re- 
33—  K 


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member.  I have  heard  that  the  English  highly  prize 
this  eccentric  book.  How  very  singular  that  the  country- 
men of  the  grand  Baintham  should  set  any  value  upon 
that  old  monkish  book. 

It  was  now  late  at  night,  and  my  new  friend  attended 
me  to  the  lodging  which  he  had  destined  for  me,  and  which 
was  at  the  house  of  a respectable  old  female,  where  I found 
a clean  and  comfortable  room.  On  the  way  I slipped  a 
gratuity  into  the  hand  of  Antonio,  and  on  my  arrival, 
formally,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  alcalde,  presented  him 
with  the  Testament,  which  I requested  he  would  carry  back 
to  Finisterra,  and  keep  in  remembrance  of  the  Englishman 
in  whose  behalf  he  had  so  effectually  interposed. 

Antonio. — I will  do  so,  your  worship;  and  when  the 
winds  blow  from  the  north-west,  preventing  our  launches 
from  putting  to  sea,  I will  read  your  present.  Farewell, 
my  captain,  and  when  you  next  come  to  Finisterra  I hope 
it  will  be  in  a valiant  English  bark,  with  plenty  of  con- 
trabando  on  board,  and  not  across  the  country  on  a pony, 
in  company  with  nuveiros  and  men  of  Padron. 

Presently  arrived  the  handmaid  of  the  alcalde  with 
a basket,  which  she  took  into  the  kitchen,  where  she 
prepared  an  excellent  supper  for  her  master's  friend.  On 
its  being  served  up  the  alcalde  bade  me  farewell,  having 
first  demanded  whether  he  could  in  any  way  forward  my 
plans. 

“ I return  to  Saint  James  to-morrow,”  I replied,  “ and 
I sincerely  hope  that  some  occasion  will  occur  which  will 
enable  me  to  acquaint  the  world  with  the  hospitality 
which  I have  experienced  from  so  accomplished  a scholar 
as  the  Alcalde  of  Corcuvion.” 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

Coruna — Crossing  the  Bay — Ferrol — The  Dockyard — Where  are  we  now? 
— Greek  Ambassador  — Lantern-light  — The  Ravine  — Viveiro — 
Evening  — Marsh  and  Quagmire  — Fair  Words  and  Fair  Money  — 
The  Leathern  Girth — Eyes  of  Lynx — The  Knavish  Guide. 

From  Corcuvion  I returned  to  Saint  James  and  Coruna, 
and  now  began  to  make  preparation  for  directing  my 
course  to  the  Asturias.  In  the  first  place  I parted  with 
my  Andalusian  horse,  which  I considered  unfit  for  the 
long  and  mountainous  journey  I was  about  to  undertake; 
his  constitution  having  become  much  debilitated  from  his 
Gallegan  travels.  Owing  to  horses  being  exceedingly 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


291 


scarce  at  Coruna,  I had  no  difficulty  in  disposing  of  him 
at  a far  higher  price  than  he  originally  cost  me.  A young 
and  wealthy  merchant  of  Coruna,  who  was  a national 
guardsman,  became  enamoured  of  his  glossy  skin  and 
long  mane  and  tail.  For  my  own  part,  I was  glad  to  part 
with  him  for  more  reasons  than  one;  he  was  both  vicious 
and  savage,  and  was  continually  getting  me  into  scrapes 
in  the  stables  of  the  posadas  where  we  slept  or  baited. 
An  old  Castilian  peasant,  whose  pony  he  had  maltreated, 
once  said  to  me,  “ Sir  Cavalier,  if  you  have  any  love  or 
respect  for  yourself,  get  rid  I beseech  you  of  that  beast, 
who  is  capable  of  proving  the  ruin  of  a kingdom.”  So  I 
left  him  behind  at  Coruna,  where  I subsequently  learned 
that  he  became  glandered  and  died.  Peace  to  his  memory  I 

From  Coruna  I crossed  the  bay  to  Ferrol,  whilst  Antonio 
with  our  remaining  horse  followed  by  land,  a rather  toilsome 
and  circuitous  journey,  although  the  distance  by  water  is 
scarcely  three  leagues.  I was  very  sea-sick  during  the 
passage,  and  lay  almost  senseless  at  the  bottom  of  the 
small  launch  in  which  I had  embarked,  and  which  was 
crowded  with  people.  The  wind  was  adverse,  and  the 
water  rough.  We  could  make  no  sail,  but  were  impelled 
along  by  the  oars  of  five  or  six  stout  mariners,  who  sang 
all  the  while  Gallegan  ditties.  Suddenly  the  sea  appeared 
to  have  become  quite  smooth,  and  my  sickness  at  once 
deserted  me.  I rose  upon  my  feet  and  looked  around. 
We  were  in  one  of  the  strangest  places  imaginable.  A 
long  and  narrow  passage  overhung  on  either  side  by  a 
stupendous  barrier  of  black  and  threatening  rocks.  The 
line  of  the  coast  was  here  divided  by  a natural  cleft,  yet 
so  straight  and  regular  that  it  seemed  not  the  work  of 
chance  but  design.  The  water  was  dark  and  sullen,  and 
of  immense  depth.  This  passage,  which  is  about  a mile 
in  length,  is  the  entrance  to  a broad  basin,  at  whose  farther 
extremity  stands  the  town  of  Ferrol. 

Sadness  came  upon  me  as  soon  as  I entered  this  place. 
Grass  was  growing  in  the  streets,  and  misery  and  distress 
stared  me  in  the  face  on  every  side.  Ferrol  is  the  grand 
naval  arsenal  of  Spain,  and  has  shared  in  the  ruin  of  the 
once  splendid  Spanish  navy:  it  is  no  longer  thronged 

with  those  thousand  shipwrights  who  prepared  for  sea 
the  tremendous  three-deckers  and  long  frigates,  the  greater 
part  of  which  were  destroyed  at  Trafalgar.  Only  a few 
ill-paid  and  half-starved  workmen  still  linger  about,  scarcely 
sufficient  to  repair  any  guarda  costa  which  may  put  in 
dismantled  by  the  fire  of  some  English  smuggling  schooner 
from  Gibraltar.  Half  the  inhabitants  of  Ferrol  beg  their 
bread ; and  amongst  these,  as  it  is  said,  are  not  unfrequently 


292 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


found  retired  naval  officers,  many  of  them  maimed  or 
otherwise  wounded,  who  are  left  to  pine  in  indigence; 
their  pensions  or  salaries  having  been  allowed  to  run  three 
or  four  years  in  arrear,  owing  to  the  exigencies  of  the  times. 
A crowd  of  importunate  beggars  followed  me  to  the  posada, 
and  even  attempted  to  penetrate  to  the  apartment  to 
which  I was  conducted.  “ Who  are  you?  ” said  I to  a 
woman  who  flung  herself  at  my  feet,  and  who  bore  in  her 
countenance  evident  marks  of  former  gentility.  “ A 
widow,  sir,”  she  replied,  in  very  good  French;  “ a widow 
of  a brave  officer,  once  adpiiral  of  this  port.”  The  misery 
and  degradation  of  modern  Spain  are  nowhere  so  strikingly 
manifested  as  at  Ferrol. 

Yet  even  here  there  is  still  much  to  admire.  Not- 
withstanding its  present  state  of  desolation,  it  contains 
some  good  streets,  and  abounds  with  handsome  houses. 
The  alameda  is  planted  with  nearly  a thousand  elms,  of 
which  almost  all  are  magnificent  trees,  and  the  poor 
Ferrolese,  with  the  genuine  spirit  of  localism  so  prevalent 
in  Spain,  boast  that  their  town  contains  a better  public 
walk  than  Madrid,  of  whose  prado,  when  they  compare  the 
two,  they  speak  in  terms  of  unmitigated  contempt.  At 
one  end  of  this  alameda  stands  the  church,  the  only  one  in 
Ferrol.  To  this  church  I repaired  the  day  after  my  arrival, 
which  was  Sunday.  I found  it  quite  insufficient  to  contain 
the  number  of  worshippers  who,  chiefly  from  the  country, 
not  only  crowded  the  interior,  but,  bare-headed,  were 
upon  their  knees  before  the  door  to  a considerable  distance 
down  the  walk. 

Parallel  with  the  alameda  extends  the  wall  of  the 
naval  arsenal  and  dock.  I spent  several  hours  in  walking 
about  these  places,  to  visit  which  it  is  necessary  to  procure 
a written  permission  from  the  captain-general  of  Ferrol. 
They  filled  me  with  astonishment.  I have  seen  the  royal 
dockyards  of  Russia  and  England,  but  for  grandeur  of 
design  and  costliness  of  execution,  they  cannot  for  a 
moment  compare  with  these  wonderful  monuments  of  the 
bygone  naval  pomp  of  Spain.  I shall  not  attempt  to 
describe  them,  but  content  myself  with  observing,  that 
the  oblong  basin,  which  is  surrounded  with  a granite  mole, 
is  capacious  enough  to  permit  a hundred  first-rates  to  lie 
conveniently  in  ordinary:  but  instead  of  such  a force,  I 
saw  only  a sixty-gun  frigate  and  two  brigs  lying  in  this 
basin,  and  to  this  inconsiderable  number  of  vessels  is  the 
present  war  marine  of  Spain  reduced. 

I waited  for  the  arrival  of  Antonio  two  or  three  days 
at  Ferrol,  and  still  he  came  not:  late  one  evening,  however, 
as  I was  looking  down  the  street,  I perceived  him  advancing, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


293 


leading  our  only  horse  by  the  bridle.  He  informed  me 
that,  at  about  three  leagues  from  Coruna,  the  heat  of  the 
weather  and  the  flies  had  so  distressed  the  animal  that  it 
had  fallen  down  in  a kind  of  fit,  from  which  it  had  been 
only  relieved  by  copious  bleeding,  on  which  account  he 
had  been  compelled  to  halt  for  a day  upon  the  road.  The 
horse  was  evidently  in  a very  feeble  state;  and  had  a 
strange  rattling  in  its  throat,  which  alarmed  me  at  first. 
I however  administered  some  remedies,  and  in  a few  days 
deemed  him  sufficiently  recovered  to  proceed. 

We  accordingly  started  from  Ferrol;  having  first  hired 
a pony  for  myself,  and  a guide  who  was  to  attend  us  as 
far  as  Rivadeo,  twenty  leagues  from  Ferrol,  and  on  the 
confines  of  the  Asturias.  The  day  at  first  was  fine,  but 
ere  we  reached  Novales,  a distance  of  three  leagues,  the 
sky  became  overcast,  and  a mist  descended,  accompanied 
by  a drizzling  rain.  The  country  through  which  we  passed 
was  very  picturesque.  At  about  two  in  the  afternoon  we 
could  descry  through  the  mist  the  small  fishing  town  of 
Santa  Marta  on  our  left,  with  its  beautiful  bay.  Travelling 
along  the  summit  of  a line  of  hills,  we  presently  entered 
a chestnut  forest,  which  appeared  to  be  without  limit: 
the  rain  still  descended,  and  kept  up  a ceaseless  pattering 
among  the  broad  green  leaves.  “ This  is  the  commence- 
ment of  the  autumnal  rains/'  said  the  guide.  “ Many  is 
the  wetting  that  you  will  get,  my  masters,  before  you 
reach  Oviedo."  “ Have  you  ever  been  as  far  as  Oviedo?  " 
I demanded.  “ No,"  he  replied,  “ and  once  only  to  Rivadeo, 
the  place  to  which  I am  now  conducting  you,  and  I tell 
you  frankly  that  we  shall  soon  be  in  wildernesses  where  the 
way  is  hard  to  find,  especially  at  night,  and  amidst  rain  and 
waters.  I wish  I were  fairly  back  to  Ferrol,  for  I like 
not  this  route,  which  is  the  worst  in  Galicia,  in  more 
respects  than  one;  but  where  my  master's  pony  goes, 
there  must  I go  too;  such  is  the  life  of  us  guides."  I 
shrugged  my  shoulders  at  this  intelligence,  which  was  by 
no  means  cheering,  but  made  no  answer.  At  length,  about 
nightfall,  we  emerged  from  the  forest,  and  presently 
descended  into  a deep  valley  at  the  foot  of  lofty  hills. 

“ Where  are  we  now?  " I demanded  of  the  guide,  as 
we  crossed  a rude  bridge  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  down 
which  a rivulet  swollen  by  the  rain  foamed  and  roared. 
“ In  the  valley  of  Goisa  doiro,"  he  replied;  “ and  it  is  my 
advice  that  we  stay  here  for  the  night,  and  do  not  venture 
among  those  hills,  through  which  lies  the  path  to  Yiveiro; 
for  as  soon  as  we  get  there,  adios!  I shall  be  bewildered, 
which  will  prove  the  destruction  of  us  all."  “ Is  there  a 
village  nigh?  " “ Yes,  the  village  is  right  before  us,  and 


294 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


we  shall  be  there  in  a moment.”  We  soon  reached  the 
village,  which  stood  amongst  some  tall  trees  at  the  entrance 
of  a pass  which  led  up  amongst  the  hills.  Antonio  dis- 
mounted and  entered  two  or  three  of  the  cabins,  but 
presently  came  to  me,  saying,  “ We  cannot  stay  here, 
mon  maitre,  without  being  devoured  by  vermin;  we  had 
better  be  amongst  the  hills  than  in  this  place;  there  is 
neither  fire  nor  light  in  these  cabins,  and  the  rain  is  stream- 
ing through  the  roofs.”  The  guide,  however,  refused  to 
proceed:  “ I could  scarcely  find  my  way  amongst  those 
hills  by  daylight,”  he  cried,  surlily,  “ much  less  at  night, 
'midst  storm  and  bretima.”  We  procured  some  wine  and 
maize  bread  from  one  of  the  cottages.  Whilst  we  were 
partaking  of  these,  Antonio  said,  “ Mon  maitre,  the  best 
thing  we  can  do  in  our  present  situation,  is  to  hire  some 
fellow  of  this  village  to  conduct  us  through  the  hills  to 
Viveiro.  There  are  no  beds  in  this  place,  and  if  we  lie 
down  in  the  litter  in  our  damp  clothes  we  shall  catch 
a tertian  of  Galicia.  Our  present  guide  is  of  no  service, 
we  must  therefore  find  another  to  do  his  duty.”  Without 
waiting  for  a reply,  he  flung  down  the  crust  of  broa  which 
he  was  munching  and  disappeared.  I subsequently  learned 
that  he  went  to  the  oottage  of  the  alcalde,  and  demanded, 
in  the  Queen's  name,  a guide  for  the  Greek  ambassador, 
who  was  benighted  on  his  way  to  the  Asturias.  In  about 
ten  minutes  I again  saw  him,  attended  by  the  local 
functionary,  who,  to  my  surprise,  made  me  a profound 
bow,  and  stood  bareheaded  in  the  rain.  “ His  excellency,” 
shouted  Antonio,  “ is  in  need  of  a guide  to  Viveiro.  People 
of  our  description  are  not  compelled  to  pay  for  any  service 
which  they  may  require;  however,  as  his  excellency  has 
bowels  of  compassion,  he  is  willing  to  give  three  pesetas 
to  any  competent  person  who  will  accompany  him  to 
Viveiro,  and  as  much  bread  and  wine  as  he  can  eat  and 
drink  on  his  arrival.”  “ His  excellency  shall  be  served,” 
said  the  alcalde;  “ however,  as  the  way  is  long  and  the 
path  is  bad,  and  there  is  much  bretima  amongst  the  hills, 
it  appears  to  me  that,  besides  the  bread  and  wine,  his 
excellency  can  do  no  less  than  offer  four  pesetas  to  the 
guide  who  may  be  willing  to  accompany  him  to  Viveiro; 
and  I know  no  one  better  than  my  own  son-in-law,  Juanito.” 
“Content,  sehor  alcalde,”  I replied;  “produce  the 
guide,  and  the  extra  peseta  shall  be  forthcoming  in  due 
season.” 

Soon  appeared  Juanito  with  a lantern  in  his  hand. 
We  instantly  set  forward.  The  two  guides  began  con- 
versing in  Gallegan.  “ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ this 
new  scoundrel  is  asking  the  old  one  what  he  thinks  we 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


295 


have  got  in  our  portmanteaus.”  Then,  without  awaiting 
my  answer,  he  shouted,  “ Pistols,  ye  barbarians  I Pistols, 
as  ye  shall  learn  to  your  cost,  if  you  do  not  cease  speaking 
in  that  gibberish  and  converse  in  Castilian.”  The  Gallegans 
were  silent,  and  presently  the  first  guide  dropped  behind, 
whilst  the  other  with  the  lantern  moved  before.  “ Keep 
in  the  rear,”  said  Antonio  to  the  former,  “ and  at  a distance: 
know  one  thing  moreover,  that  I can  see  behind  as  well 
as  before.  Mon  maitre,”  said  he  to  me,  “ I don’t  suppose 
these  fellows  will  attempt  to  do  us  any  harm,  more  especially 
as  they  do  not  know  each  other ; it  is  well,  however,  to 
separate  them,  for  this  is  a time  and  place  which  might 
tempt  any  one  to  commit  robbery  and  murder  too.” 

The  rain  still  continued  to  fall  uninterruptedly,  the 
path  was  rugged  and  precipitous,  and  the  night  was  so 
dark  that  we  could  only  see  indistinctly  the  hills  which 
surrounded  us.  Once  or  twice  our  guide  seemed  to  have 
lost  his  way:  he  stopped,  muttered  to  himself,  raised  his 
lantern  on  high,  and  would  then  walk  slowly  and  hesitatingly 
forward.  In  this  manner  we  proceeded  for  three  or  four 
hours,  when  I asked  the  guide  how  far  we  were  from 
Yiveiro.  “ I do  not  know  exactly  where  we  are,  your 
worship,”  he  replied,  “ though  I believe  we  are  in  the  route. 
We  can  scarcely,  however,  be  less  than  two  mad  leagues 
from  Yiveiro.”  “ Then  we  shall  not  arrive  there  before 
morning,”  interrupted  Antonio,  “ for  a mad  league  of 
Galicia  means  at  least  two  of  Castile;  and  perhaps  we  are 
doomed  never  to  arrive  there,  if  the  way  thither  leads 
down  this  precipice.”  As  he  spoke,  the  guide  seemed  to 
descend  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  “ Stop,”  said  I, 
“ where  are  you  going?  ” “ To  Yiveiro,  Senhor,”  replied 

the  fellow;  “ this  is  the  way  to  Yiveiro,  there  is  no  other; 
I now  know  where  we  are.”  The  light  of  the  lantern  shone 
upon  the  dark  red  features  of  the  guide,  who  had  turned 
round  to  reply,  as  he  stood  some  yards  down  the  side  of  a 
dingle  or  ravine  overgrown  with  thick  trees,  beneath  whose 
leafy  branches  a frightfully  steep  path  descended.  I 
dismounted  from  the  pony,  and  delivering  the  bridle  to 
the  other  guide,  said,  “ Here  is  your  master’s  horse,  if  you 
please  you  may  lead  him  down  that  abyss,  but  as  for 
myself  I wash  my  hands  of  the  matter.”  The  fellow, 
without  a word  of  reply,  vaulted  into  the  saddle,  and  with 
a vamos , Perico  ! to  the  pony,  impelled  the  creature  to  the 
descent.  “ Come,  Senhor,”  said  he  with  the  lantern, 
“ there  is  no  time  to  be  lost,  my  light  will  be  presently 
extinguished,  and  this  is  the  worst  bit  in  the  whole  road.” 
I thought  it  very  probable  that  he  was  about  to  lead  us 
to  some  den  of  cut-throats,  where  we  might  be  sacrificed; 


296 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


but,  taking  courage,  I seized  our  own  horse  by  the  bridle, 
and  followed  the  fellow  down  the  ravine  amidst  rocks  and 
brambles.  The  descent  lasted  nearly  ten  minutes,  and 
ere  we  had  entirely  accomplished  it,  the  light  in  the  lantern 
went  out,  and  we  remained  in  nearly  total  darkness. 

Encouraged,  however,  by  the  guide,  who  assured 
us  there  was  no  danger,  we  at  length  reached  the  bottom 
of  the  ravine;  here  we  encountered  a rill  of  water,  through 
which  we  were  compelled  to  wade  as  high  as  the  knee.  In 
the  midst  of  the  water  I looked  up  and  caught  a glimpse 
of  the  heavens  through  the  branches  of  the  trees,  which 
all  around  clothed  the  shelving  sides  of  the  ravine  and 
completely  embowered  the  channel  of  the  stream:  to  a 
place  more  strange  and  replete  with  gloom  and  horror 
no  benighted  traveller  ever  found  his  way.  After  a short 
pause  we  commenced  scaling  the  opposite  bank,  which  we 
did  not  find  so  steep  as  the  other,  and  a few  minutes’  exertion 
brought  us  to  the  top. 

Shortly  afterwards  the  rain  abated,  and  the  moon 
arising  cast  a dim  light  through  the  watery  mists ; the  way 
had  become  less  precipitous,  and  in  about  two  hours  we 
descended  to  the  shore  of  an  extensive  creek,  along  which 
we  proceeded  till  we  reached  a spot  where  many  boats 
and  barges  lay  with  their  keels  upward  upon  the  sand. 
Presently  we  beheld  before  us  the  walls  of  Yiveiro,  upon 
which  the  moon  was  shedding  its  sickly  lustre.  We  entered 
by  a lofty  and  seemingly  ruinous  archway,  and  the  guide 
conducted  us  at  once  to  the  posada. 

Every  person  in  Viveiro  appeared  to  be  buried  in 
profound  slumber;  not  so  much  as  a dog  saluted  us  with 
his  bark.  After  much  knocking  we  were  admitted  into 
the  posada,  a large  and  dilapidated  edifice.  We  had  scarcely 
housed  ourselves  and  horses  when  the  rain  began  to  fall 
with  yet  more  violence  than  before,  attended  with  much 
thunder  and  lightning.  Antonio  and  I,  exhausted  with 
fatigue,  betook  ourselves  to  flock  beds  in  a ruinous  chamber, 
into  which  the  rain  penetrated  through  many  a cranny, 
whilst  the  guides  ate  bread  and  drank  wine  till  the  morning. 

When  I arose  I was  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  a fine 
day.  Antonio  forthwith  prepared  a savoury  breakfast 
of  stewed  fowl,  of  which  we  stood  in  much  need  after  the 
ten  league  journey  of  the  preceding  day  over  the  ways 
which  I have  attempted  to  describe.  I then  walked  out  to 
view  the  town,  which  consists  of  little  more  than  one  long 
street,  on  the  side  of  a steep  mountain  thickly  clad  with 
forests  and  fruit  trees.  At  about  ten  we  continued  our 
journey,  accompanied  by  our  first  guide,  the  other  having 
returned  to  Goisa  doiro  some  hours  previously. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


297 


Our  route  throughout  this  day  was  almost  constantly 
within  sight  of  the  shores  of  the  Cantabrian  sea,  whose 
windings  we  followed.  The  country  was  barren,  and  in 
many  parts  covered  with  huge  stones:  cultivated  spots, 
however,  were  to  be  seen,  where  vines  were  growing.  We 
met  with  but  few  human  habitations.  We  however 
journeyed  on  cheerfully,  for  the  sun  was  once  more  shin- 
ing in  full  brightness,  gilding  the  wild  moors,  and  shining 
upon  the  waters  of  the  distant  sea,  which  lay  in  unruffled 
calmness. 

At  evening  fall  we  were  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
shore,  with  a range  of  wood-covered  hills  on  our  right. 
Our  guide  led  us  towards  a creek  bordered  by  a marsh, 
but  he  soon  stopped  and  declared  that  he  did  not  know 
whither  he  was  conducting  us. 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ let  us  be  our  own 
guides;  it  is,  as  you  see,  of  no  use  to  depend  upon  this 
fellow,  whose  whole  science  consists  in  leading  people 
into  quagmires.” 

We  therefore  turned  aside  and  proceeded  along  the 
marsh  for  a considerable  distance,  till  we  reached  a narrow 
path  which  led  us  into  a thick  wood,  where  we  soon  became 
completely  bewildered.  On  a sudden,  after  wandering 
about  a considerable  time,  we  heard  the  noise  of  water, 
and  presently  the  clack  of  a wheel.  Following  the  sound, 
we  arrived  at  a low  stone  mill,  built  over  a brook;  here 
we  stopped  and  shouted,  but  no  answer  was  returned. 
“ The  place  is  deserted,”  said  Antonio;  “ here,  however, 
is  a path,  which,  if  we  follow  it,  will  doubtless  lead  us  to 
some  human  habitation.”  So  we  went  along  the  path, 
which,  in  about  ten  minutes,  brought  us  to  the  door  of  a 
cabin,  in  which  we  saw  lights.  Antonio  dismounted  and 
opened  the  door:  “ Is  there  any  one  here  who  can  conduct 
us  to  Rivadeo?  ” he  demanded. 

“ Senhor,”  answered  a voice,  “ Rivadeo  is  more  than 
five  leagues  from  here,  and,  moreover,  there  is  a river  to 
cross  I ” 

“ Then  to  the  next  village,”  continued  Antonio. 

“ I am  a vecino  of  the  next  village,  which  is  on  the 
way  to  Rivadeo,”  said  another  voice,  “ and  I will  lead 
you  thither,  if  you  will  give  me  fair  words,  and,  what  is 
better,  fair  money.” 

A man  now  came  forth,  holding  in  his  hand  a large 
stick.  He  strode  sturdily  before  us,  and  in  less  than  half 
an  hour  led  us  out  of  the  wood.  In  another  half  hour  he 
brought  us  to  a group  of  cabins  situated  near  the  sea; 
he  pointed  to  one  of  these,  and  having  received  a peseta, 
bade  us  farewell. 


298 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


The  people  of  the  cottage  willingly  consented  to  receive 
us  for  the  night:  it  was  much  more  cleanly  and  commodious 
than  the  wrretched  huts  of  the  Gallegan  peasantry  in  general. 
The  ground  floor  consisted  of  a keeping  room  and  stable, 
whilst  above  was  a long  loft,  in  which  were  some  neat 
and  comfortable  flock  beds.  I observed  several  masts  and 
sails  of  boats.  The  family  consisted  of  two  brothers  with 
their  wives  and  families;  one  was  a fisherman,  but  the 
other,  who^  appeared  to  be  the  principal  person,  informed 
me  that  he  had  resided  for  many  years  in  service  at  Madrid, 
and  having  amassed  a small  sum,  he  had  at  length  returned 
to  his  native  village,  where  he  had  purchased  some  land 
which  he  farmed.  All  the  family  used  the  Castilian 
language  in  their  common  discourse,  and  on  inquiry  I 
learned  that  the  Gallegan  was  not  much  spoken  in  that 
neighbourhood.  I have  forgotten  the  name  of  this  village, 
which  is  situated  on  the  estuary  of  the  Foz,  wdiich  rolls 
down  from  Mondonedo.  In  the  morning  we  crossed  this 
estuary  in  a large  boat  with  our  horses,  and  about  noon 
arrived  at  Rivadeo. 

“ Now,  your  worship,”  said  the  guide  who  had  accom- 
panied us  from  Ferro!,  “ I have  brought  you  as  far  as  I 
bargained,  and  a hard  journey  it  has  been;  I therefore 
hope  you  will  suffer  Perico  and  myself  to  remain  here  to- 
night at  your  expense,  and  to-morrow  we  will  go  back; 
at  present  we  are  both  sorely  tired.” 

“ I never  mounted  a better  pony  than  Perico,”  said  I, 
“ and  never  met  with  a worse  guide  than  yourself.  You 
appear  to  be  perfectly  ignorant  of  the  country,  and  have 
done  nothing  but  bring  us  into  difficulties.  You  may, 
however,  stay  here  for  the  night,  as  you  say  you  are  tired, 
and  to-morrow  you  may  return  to  Ferrol,  where  I counsel 
you  to  adopt  some  other  trade.”  This  was  said  at  the 
door  of  the  posada  of  Rivadeo. 

“ Shall  I lead  the  horses  to  a stable?  ” said  the  fellow. 

“ As  you  please,”  said  I. 

Antonio  looked  after  him  for  a moment,  as  he  was 
leading  the  animals  away,  and  then  shaking  his  head 
followed  slowly  after.  In  about  a quarter  of  an  hour  he 
returned,  laden  with  the  furniture  of  our  own  horse,  and 
with  a smile  upon  his  countenance:  “ Mon  maitre,”  said 
he,  “ I have  throughout  the  journey  had  a bad  opinion  of 
this  fellow,  and  now  I have  detected  him:  his  motive  in 
requesting  permission  to  stay,  was  a desire  to  purloin 
something  from  us.  He  was  very  officious  in  the  stable 
about  our  horse,  and  I now  miss  the  new  leathern  girth 
which  secured  the  saddle,  and  which  I observed  him 
looking  at  frequently  on  the  road.  Fie  has  by  this  time 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


299 


doubtless  hid  it  somewhere;  we  are  quite  secure  of  him, 
however,  for  he  has  not  yet  received  the  hire  for  the  pony, 
nor  the  gratuity  for  himself.,, 

The  guide  returned  just  as  he  had  concluded  speaking. 
Dishonesty  is  always  suspicious.  The  fellow  cast  a glance 
upon  us,  and  probably  beholding  in  our  countenances 
something  which  he  did  not  like,  he  suddenly  said,  “ Give 
me  the  horse-hire  and  my  own  propina,  for  Perico  and  I 
wish  to  be  off  instantly/' 

“ How  is  this?  " said  I;  “ I thought  you  and  Perico 
were  both  fatigued,  and  wished  to  rest  here  for  the  night; 
you  have  soon  recovered  from  your  weariness." 

“ I have  thought  over  the  matter,"  said  the  fellow, 
" and  my  master  will  be  angry  if  I loiter  here:  pay  us, 
therefore,  and  let  us  go." 

“ Certainly,"  said  I,  “ if  you  wish  it.  Is  the  horse 
furniture  all  right?  " 

“ Quite  so,"  said  he;  “ I delivered  it  all  to  your  servant." 

“ It  is  all  here,"  said  Antonio,  “ with  the  exception  of 
the  leathern  girth." 

“ I have  not  got  it,"  said  the  guide. 

“ Of  course  not,"  said  I.  “ Let  us  proceed  to  the 
stable,  we  shall  perhaps  find  it  there." 

To  the  stable  we  went,  which  we  searched  through: 
no  girth,  however,  was  forthcoming.  “ He  has  got  it 
buckled  round  his  middle  beneath  his  pantaloons,  mon 
maitre,"  said  Antonio,  whose  eyes  were  moving  about 
like  those  of  a lynx;  “ I saw  the  protuberance  as  he  stooped 
down.  However,  let  us  take  no  notice:  he  is  here  sur- 
rounded by  his  countrymen,  who,  if  we  were  to  seize  him, 
might  perhaps  take  his  part.  As  I said  before,  he  is  in  our 
power,  as  we  have  not  paid  him." 

The  fellow  now  began  to  talk  in  Gallegan  to  the  by- 
standers (several  persons  having  collected),  wishing  the 
Denho  to  take  him  if  he  knew  anything  of  the  missing 
property.  Nobody,  however,  seemed  inclined  to  take 
his  part;  and  those  who  listened,  only  shrugged  their 
shoulders.  We  returned  to  the  portal  of  the  posada, 
the  fellow  following  us,  clamouring  for  the  horse-hire  and 
propina.  We  made  him  no  answer,  and  at  length  he 
went  away,  threatening  to  apply  to  the  justicia;  in  about 
ten  minutes,  however,  he  came  running  back  with  the 
girth  in  his  hand:  “ I have  just  found  it,"  said  he,  “in 
the  street:  your  servant  dropped  it." 

I took  the  leather  and  proceeded  very  deliberately  to 
count  out  the  sum  to  which  the  horse-hire  amounted,  and 
having  delivered  it  to  him  in  the  presence  of  witnesses,  I 
said,  “ During  the  whole  journey  you  have  been  of  no 


300 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


service  to  us  whatever;  nevertheless,  you  have  fared  like 
ourselves,  and  have  had  all  you  could  desire  to  eat  and 
drink.  I intended,  on  your  leaving  us,  to  present  you, 
moreover,  with  a propina  of  two  dollars;  but  since,  not- 
withstanding our  kind  treatment,  you  endeavoured  to 
pillage  us,  I will  not  give  you  a cuarto:  go,  therefore, 
about  your  business.” 

All  the  audience  expressed  their  satisfaction  at  this 
sentence,  and  told  him  that  he  had  been  rightly  served, 
and  that  he  was  a disgrace  to  Galicia.  Two  or  three 
women  crossed  themselves,  and  asked  him  if  he  was  not 
afraid  that  the  Denho,  whom  he  had  invoked,  would  take 
him  away.  At  last,  a respectable-looking  man  said  to 
him:  “ Are  you  not  ashamed  to  have  attempted  to  rob 
two  innocent  strangers?  ” 

“ Strangers!  ” roared  the  fellow,  who  was  by  this 
time  foaming  with  rage;  “ innocent  strangers,  carracho! 
they  know  more  of  Spain  and  Galicia  too  than  the  whole 
of  us.  Oh,  Denho,  that  servant  is  no  man  but  a wizard, 
a nuveiro. — Where  is  Perico?  ” 

He  mounted  Perico,  and  proceeded  forthwith  to  another 
posada.  The  tale,  however,  of  his  dishonesty  had  gone 
before  him,  and  no  person  would  house  him;  whereupon 
he  returned  on  his  steps,  and  seeing  me  looking  out  of  the 
window  of  the  house,  he  gave  a savage  shout,  and  shaking 
his  fist  at  me,  galloped  out  of  the  town,  the  people  pursuing 
him  with  hootings  and  revilings. 


CHAPTER  XXXII 

Martin  of  Rivadeo — The  Factious  Mare — Asturians — Luarca — The  Seven 
Bellotas — Hermits — The  Asturian’s  Tale — Strange  Guests — The  Big 
Servant — Batuschca 

“ What  may  your  business  be?  ” said  I to  a short,  thick, 
merry-faced  fellow  in  a velveteen  jerkin  and  canvas 
pantaloons,  who  made  his  way  into  my  apartment,  in  the 
dusk  of  the  evening. 

“ I am  Martin  of  Rivadeo,  your  worship,”  replied  the 
man,  “ an  alquilador  by  profession;  I am  told  that  you 
want  a horse  for  your  journey  into  the  Asturias  to-morrow, 
and  of  course  a guide:  now,  if  that  be  the  case,  I counsel 
you  to  hire  myself  and  mare.” 

“ I am  become  tired  of  guides,”  I replied;  “ so  much 
so  that  I was  thinking  of  purchasing  a pony,  and  proceeding 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  301 

without  any  guide  at  all.  The  last  which  we  had  was  an 
infamous  character.” 

“ So  I have  been  told,  your  worship,  and  it  was  well 
for  the  bribon  that  I was  not  in  Rivadeo  when  the  affair 
to  which  you  allude  occurred.  But  he  was  gone  with  the 
pony  Perico  before  I came  back,  or  I would  have  bled  the 
fellow  to  a certainty  with  my  knife.  He  is  a disgrace  to 
the  profession,  which  is  one  of  the  most  honourable  and 
ancient  in  the  world.  Perico  himself  must  have  been 
ashamed  of  him,  for  Perico,  though  a pony,  is  a gentleman, 
one  of  many  capacities,  and  well  known  upon  the  roads. 
He  is  only  inferior  to  my  mare.” 

“ Are  you  well  acquainted  with  the  road  to  Oviedo?  ” 
I demanded. 

“ I am  not,  your  worship;  that  is,  no  farther  than 
Luarca,  which  is  the  first  day's  journey.  I do  not  wish 
to  deceive  you,  therefore  let  me  go  with  you  no  farther 
than  that  place;  though  perhaps  I might  serve  for  the 
whole  journey,  for  though  I am  unacquainted  with  the 
country,  I have  a tongue  in  my  head,  and  nimble  feet  to 
run  and  ask  questions.  I will,  however,  answer  for  myself 
no  farther  than  Luarca,  where  you  can  please  yourselves. 
Your  being  strangers  is  what  makes  me  wish  to  accompany 
you,  for  I like  the  conversation  of  strangers,  from  whom  I 
am  sure  to  gain  information  both  entertaining  and  profit- 
able. I wish,  moreover,  to  convince  you  that  we  guides 
of  Galicia  are  not  all  thieves,  which  I am  sure  you  will  not 
suppose  if  you  only  permit  me  to  accompany  you  as  far 
as  Luarca.” 

I was  so  much  struck  with  the  fellow's  good  humour 
and  frankness,  and  more  especially  by  the  originality  of 
character  displayed  in  almost  every  sentence  which  he 
uttered,  that  I readily  engaged  him  to  guide  us  to  Luarca; 
whereupon  he  left  me,  promising  to  be  ready  with  his  mare 
at  eight  next  morning. 

Rivadeo  is  one  of  the  principal  seaports  of  Galicia, 
and  is  admirably  situated  for  commerce,  on  a deep  firth, 
into  which  the  river  Mirando  debouches.  It  contains 
many  magnificent  buildings,  and  an  extensive  square 
or  plaza,  which  is  planted  with  trees.  I observed  several 
vessels  in  the  harbour;  and  the  population,  which  is  rather 
numerous,  exhibited  none  of  those  marks  of  misery  and 
dejection  which  I had  lately  observed  among  the  Ferrolese. 

On  the  morrow  Martin  of  Rivadeo  made  his  appearance 
at  the  appointed  hour  with  his  mare.  It  was  a lean 
haggard  animal,  not  much  larger  than  a pony;  it  had 
good  points,  however,  and  was  very  clean  in  its  hinder 
legs,  and  Martin  insisted  that  it  was  the  best  animal  of  its 


302 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


kind  in  all  Spain.  “ It  is  a factious  mare,”  said  he,  “ and 
I believe  an  Alavese.  When  the  Carlists  came  here  it  fell 
lame,  and  they  left  it  behind,  and  I purchased  it  for  a 
dollar.  It  is  not  lame  now,  however,  as  you  shall  soon 
see.” 

We  had  now  reached  the  firth  which  divides  Galicia 
from  the  Asturias.  A kind  of  barge  was  lying  about  two 
yards  from  the  side  of  the  quay,  waiting  to  take  us  over. 
Towards  this  Martin  led  his  mare,  and  giving  an  encouraging 
shout,  the  creature  without  any  hesitation  sprang  over 
the  intervening  space  into  the  barge.  “ I told  you  she 
was  a facciosa,”  said  Martin;  “ none  but  a factious  animal 
would  have  taken  such  a leap.” 

We  all  embarked  in  the  barge  and  crossed  over  the 
firth,  which  is  in  this  place  nearly  a mile  broad,  to  Castro 
Pol,  the  first  town  in  the  Asturias.  I now  mounted  the 
factious  mare,  whilst  Antonio  followed  on  my  own  horse. 
Martin  led  the  way,  exchanging  jests  with  every  person 
whom  he  met  on  the  road,  and  occasionally  enlivening  the 
way  with  an  extemporaneous  song. 

We  were  now  in  the  Asturias,  and  about  noon  we 
reached  Navias,  a small  fishing  town,  situate  on  a ria  or 
firth;  in  the  neighbourhood  are  ragged  mountains,  called 
the  Sierra  de  Buron,  which  stand  in  the  shape  of  a semi- 
circle. We  saw  a small  vessel  in  the  harbour,  which  we 
subsequently  learned  was  from  the  Basque  provinces,  come 
for  a cargo  of  cider  or  sagadua,  the  beverage  so  dearly 
loved  by  the  Basques.  As  we  passed  along  the  narrow 
street,  Antonio  was  hailed  with  an  “ Ola  ” from  a species 
of  shop  in  which  three  men,  apparently  shoemakers,  were 
seated.  He  stopped  for  some  time  to  converse  with  them, 
and  when  he  joined  us  at  the  posada  where  we  halted, 
I asked  him  who  they  were:  “ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  “ ce 
sont  des  messieurs  de  ma  connoissance . I have  been  fellow 
servant  at  different  times  with  all  three;  and  I tell  you 
beforehand,  that  we  shall  scarcely  pass  through  a village 
in  this  country  where  I shall  not  find  an  acquaintance. 
All  the  Asturians,  at  some  period  of  their  lives,  make  a 
journey  to  Madrid,  where,  if  they  can  obtain  a situation, 
they  remain  until  they  have  scraped  up  sufficient  to  turn 
to  advantage  in  their  own  country;  and  as  I have  served 
in  all  the  great  houses  in  Madrid,  I am  acquainted  with 
the  greatest  part  of  them.  I have  nothing  to  say  against 
the  Asturians,  save  that  they  are  close  and  penurious 
whilst  at  service ; but  they  are  not  thieves,  neither  at  home 
nor  abroad,  and  though  we  must  have  our  wits  about  us 
in  their  country,  I have  heard  we  may  travel  from  one  end 
of  it  to  the  other  without  the  slightest  fear  of  being  either 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  303 

robbed  or  ill  treated,  which  is  not  the  case  in  Galicia,  where 
we  were  always  in  danger  of  having  our  throats  cut.” 

Leaving  Navias,  we  proceeded  through  a wild  desolate 
country,  till  we  reached  the  pass  of  Baralla,  which  lies 
up  the  side  of  a huge  wall  of  rocks,  which  at  a distance 
appear  of  a light  green  colour,  though  perfectly  bare  of 
herbage  or  plants  of  any  description. 

“ This  pass,”  said  Martin  of  Rivadeo,  “ bears  a very 
evil  reputation,  and  I should  not  like  to  travel  it  after 
sunset.  It  is  not  infested  by  robbers,  but  by  things  much 
worse,  the  duendes  of  two  friars  of  Saint  Francis.  It  is 
said  that  in  the  old  time,  long  before  the  convents  were 
suppressed,  two  friars  of  the  order  of  Saint  Francis  left 
their  convent  to  beg;  it  chanced  that  they  were  very 
successful,  but  as  they  were  returning  at  nightfall,  by  this 
pass,  they  had  a quarrel  about  what  they  had  collected, 
each  insisting  that  he  had  done  his  duty  better  than  the 
other;  at  last,  from  high  words  they  fell  to  abuse,  and 
from  abuse  to  blows.  What  do  you  think  these  demons 
of  friars  did?  They  took  off  their  cloaks,  and  at  the  end 
of  each  they  made  a knot,  in  which  they  placed  a large  stone, 
and  with  these  they  thrashed  and  belaboured  each  other 
till  both  fell  dead.  Master,  I know  not  which  are  the  worst 
plagues,  friars,  curates,  or  sparrows: 

“ May  the  Lord  God  preserve  us  from  evil  birds  three  : 

From  all  friars  and  curates  and  sparrows  that  be ; 

For  the  sparrows  eat  up  all  the  corn  that  we  sow, 

The  friars  drink  down  all  the  wine  that  we  grow, 

Whilst  the  curates  have  all  the  fair  dames  at  their  nod : 
From  these  three  evil  curses  preserve  us,  Lord  God.” 

In  about  two  hours  from  this  time  we  reached  Luarca, 
the  situation  of  which  is  most  singular.  It  stands  in  a 
deep  hollow,  whose  sides  are  so  precipitous  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  descry  the  town  until  you  stand  just  above  it. 
At  the  northern  extremity  of  this  hollow  is  a small  harbour, 
the  sea  entering  it  by  a narrow  cleft.  We  found  a large 
and  comfortable  posada,  and  by  the  advice  of  Martin, 
made  inquiry  for  a fresh  guide  and  horse ; we  were  informed, 
however,  that  all  the  horses  of  the  place  were  absent,  and 
that  if  we  waited  for  their  return,  we  must  tarry  for  two 
days.  “ I had  a presentiment,”  said  Martin,  “ when  we 
entered  Luarca,  that  we  were  not  doomed  to  part  at  present. 
You  must  now  hire  my  mare  and  me  as  far  as  Giyon,  from 
whence  there  is  a conveyance  to  Oviedo.  To  tell  you 
the  truth,  I am  by  no  means  sorry  that  the  guides  are 
absent,  for  I am  pleased  with  your  company,  as  I make 
no  doubt  you  are  with  mine.  I will  now  go  and  write  a 


304 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


letter  to  my  wife  at  Rivadeo,  informing  her  that  she  must 
not  expect  to  see  me  back  for  several  days.”  He  then  went 
out  of  the  room  singing  the  following  stanza: 

“ A handless  man  a letter  did  write, 

A dumb  dictated  it  word  for  word  : 

The  person  who  read  it  had  lost  his  sight, 

And  deaf  was  he  who  listened  and  heard.” 

Early  the  next  morning  we  emerged  from  the  hollow 
of  Luarca;  about  an  hour's  riding  brought  us  to  Ganeiro, 
a deep  and  romantic  valley  of  rocks,  shaded  by  tall  chestnut 
trees.  Through  the  midst  of  this  valley  rushes  a rapid 
stream,  which  we  crossed  in  a boat.  “ There  is  not  such  a 
stream  for  trout  in  all  the  Asturias,”  said  the  ferryman; 
“ look  down  into  the  waters  and  observe  the  large  stones 
over  which  it  flows;  now  in  the  proper  season,  and  in  fine 
weather,  you  cannot  see  those  stones  for  the  multitude  of 
fish  which  cover  them.” 

Leaving  the  valley  behind  us,  we  entered  into  a wild 
and  dreary  country,  stony  and  mountainous.  The  day 
was  dull  and  gloomy,  and  all  around  looked  sad  and 
melancholy.  “ Are  we  in  the  way  for  Giyon  and  Oviedo?  ” 
demanded  Martin  of  an  ancient  female,  who  stood  at  the 
door  of  a cottage. 

“ For  Giyon  and  Oviedo!  ” replied  the  crone;  “ many 
is  the  weary  step  you  will  have  to  make  before  you  reach 
Giyon  and  Oviedo.  You  must  first  of  all  crack  the  bellotas: 
you  are  just  below  them.” 

“ What  does  she  mean  by  cracking  the  bellotas?  ” 
demanded  I of  Martin  of  Rivadeo. 

“ Did  your  worship  never  hear  of  the  seven  bellotas?  ” 
replied  our  guide.  “ I can  scarcely  tell  you  what  they  are, 
as  I have  never  seen  them;  I believe  they  are  seven  hills 
which  we  have  to  cross,  and  are  called  bellotas  from  some 
resemblance  to  acorns  which  it  is  fancied  they  bear.  I 
have  often  heard  of  these  acorns,  and  am  not  sorry  that 
I have  now  an  opportunity  of  seeing  them,  though  it  is 
said  that  they  are  rather  hard  things  for  horses  to  digest.” 

The  Asturian  mountains  in  this  part  rise  to  a con- 
siderable altitude.  They  consist  for  the  most  part  of  dark 
granite,  covered  here  and  there  with  a thin  layer  of  earth. 
They  approach  very  near  to  the  sea,  to  which  they  slope 
down  in  broken  ridges,  between  which  are  deep  and 
precipitous  defiles,  each  with  its  rivulet,  the  tribute  of  the 
hills  to  the  salt  flood.  The  road  traverses  these  defiles. 
There  are  seven  of  them,  which  are  called,  in  the  language 
of  the  country,  Las  siete  bellotas . Of  all  these,  the  most 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


305 


terrible  is  the  midmost,  down  which  rolls  an  impetuous 
torrent.  At  the  upper  end  of  it  rises  a precipitous  wall  of 
rock,  black  as  soot,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  yards; 
its  top,  as  we  passed,  was  enveloped  with  a veil  of  bretima. 
From  this  gorge  branch  off,  on  either  side,  small  dingles 
or  glens,  some  of  them  so  overgrown  with  trees  and  copse- 
wood,  that  the  eye  is  unable  to  penetrate  the  obscurity 
beyond  a few  yards. 

“ Fine  places  would  some  of  these  dingles  prove  for 
hermitages,”  said  I to  Martin  of  Rivadeo.  “ Holy  men 
might  lead  a happy  life  there  on  roots  and  water,  and 
pass  many  years  absorbed  in  heavenly  contemplation, 
without  ever  being  disturbed  by  the  noise  and  turmoil  of 
the  world.” 

“ True,  your  worship,”  replied  Martin;  “ and  perhaps 
on  that  very  account  there  are  no  hermitages  in  the 
barrancos  of  the  seven  bellotas.  Our  hermits  had  little 
inclination  for  roots  and  water,  and  had  no  kind  of  objection 
to  be  occasionally  disturbed  in  their  meditations.  Vaya! 
I never  yet  saw  a hermitage  that  was  not  hard  by  some 
rich  town  or  village,  or  was  not  a regular  resort  for  all  the 
idle  people  in  the  neighbourhood.  Hermits  are  not  fond 
of  living  in  dingles,  amongst  wolves  and  foxes;  for  how  in 
that  case  could  they  dispose  of  their  poultry?  A hermit 
of  my  acquaintance  left,  when  he  died,  a fortune  of  seven 
hundred  dollars  to  his  niece,  the  greatest  part  of  which  he 
scraped  up  by  fattening  turkeys/' 

At  the  top  of  this  bellota  we  found  a wretched  venta, 
where  we  refreshed  ourselves,  and  then  continued  our 
journey.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  cleared  the  last  of 
these  difficult  passes.  The  wind  began  now  to  rise,  bearing 
on  its  wings  a drizzling  rain.  We  passed  by  Soto  Luino, 
and  shaping  our  course  through  a wild  but  picturesque 
country,  we  found  ourselves  about  nightfall  at  the  foot  of 
a steep  hill,  up  which  led  a narrow  bridle-way,  amidst  a 
grove  of  lofty  trees.  Long  before  we  had  reached  the  top 
it  had  become  quite  dark,  and  the  rain  had  increased 
considerably.  We  stumbled  along  in  the  obscurity, 
leading  our  horses,  which  were  occasionally  down  on  their 
knees,  owing  to  the  slipperiness  of  the  path.  At  last  we 
accomplished  the  ascent  in  safety,  and  pushing  briskly 
forward,  we  found  ourselves,  in  about  half  an  hour,  at  the 
entrance  of  Muros,  a large  village  situated  just  on  the 
declivity  of  the  farther  side  of  the  hill. 

A blazing  fire  in  the  posada  soon  dried  our  wet  garments, 
and  in  some  degree  recompensed  us  for  the  fatigues  which 
we  had  undergone  in  scrambling  up  the  bellotas.  A 
rather  singular  place  was  this  same  posada  of  Muros.  It 


306 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


was  a large  rambling  house,  with  a spacious  kitchen,  or 
common  room,  on  the  ground  floor.  Above  stairs  was 
a large  dining-apartment,  with  an  immense  oak  table,  and 
furnished  with  cumbrous  leathern  chairs  with  high  backs, 
apparently  three  centuries  old  at  least.  Communicating 
with  this  apartment  was  a wooden  gallery,  open  to  the  air, 
which  led  to  a small  chamber,  in  which  I was  destined  to 
sleep,  and  which  contained  an  old-fashioned  tester-bed 
with  curtains.  It  was  just  one  of  those  inns  which  romance 
writers  are  so  fond  of  introducing  in  their  descriptions, 
especially  when  the  scene  of  adventure  lies  in  Spain.  The 
host  was  a talkative  Asturian. 

The  wind  still  howled,  and  the  rain  descended  in  torrents. 

I sat  before  the  fire  in  a very  drowsy  state,  from  which  I 
was  presently  aroused  by  the  conversation  of  the  host. 
“ Sehor,”  said  he,  “ it  is  now  three  years  since  I beheld 
foreigners  in  my  house.  I remember  it  was  about  this 
time  of  the  year,  and  just  such  a night  as  this,  that  two 
men  on  horseback  arrived  here.  What  was  singular,  they 
came  without  any  guide.  Two  more  strange-looking 
individuals  I never  yet  beheld  with  eye-sight.  I shall 
never  forget  them.  The  one  was  as  tall  as  a giant,  with 
much  tawny  moustache,  like  the  coat  of  a badger,  growing 
about  his  mouth.  He  had  a huge  ruddy  face,  and  looked 
dull  and  stupid,  as  he  no  doubt  was,  for  when  I spoke  to 
him,  he  did  not  seem  to  understand,  and  answered  in  a 
jabber,  valgame  Dios!  so  wild  and  strange,  that  I remained 
staring  at  him  with  mouth  and  eyes  open.  The  other  was 
neither  tall  nor  red-faced,  nor  had  he  hair  about  his  mouth, 
and,  indeed,  he  had  very  little  upon  his  head.  He  was  very 
diminutive,  and  looked  like  a jorobado  ( hunchback );  but, 
valgame  Dios!  such  eyes,  like  wild  cats’,  so  sharp  and  full 
of  malice.  He  spoke  as  good  Spanish  as  I myself  do,  and 
yet  he  was  no  Spaniard.  A Spaniard  never  looked  like 
that  man.  He  was  dressed  in  a zamarra,  with  much  silver 
and  embroidery,  and  wore  an  Andalusian  hat,  and  I soon 
found  that  he  was  master,  and  that  the  other  was  servant. 

“Valgame  Dios!  what  an  evil  disposition  had  that 
same  foreign  jorobado,  and  yet  he  had  much  grace,  much 
humour,  and  said  occasionally  to  me  such  comical  things, 
that  I was  fit  to  die  of  laughter.  So  he  sat  down  to  supper 
in  the  room  above,  and  I may  as  well  tell  you  here,  that  he 
slept  in  the  same  chamber  where  your  worship  will  sleep 
to-night,  and  his  servant  waited  behind  his  chair.  Well, 
I had  curiosity,  so  I sat  myself  down  at  the  table  too, 
without  asking  leave.  Why  should  I?  I was  in  my  own 
house,  and  an  Asturian  is  fit  company  for  a king,  and  is 
often  of  better  blood.  Oh,  what  a strange  supper  was  that. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


307 


If  the  servant  made  the  slightest  mistake  in  helping  him, 
up  would  start  the  jorobado,  jump  upon  his  chair,  and 
seizing  the  big  giant  by  the  hair,  would  cuff  him  on  both 
sides  of  the  face,  till  I was  afraid  his  teeth  would  have 
fallen  out.  The  giant,  however,  did  not  seem  to  care  about 
it  much.  He  was  used  to  it,  I suppose.  Yalgame  Dios! 
if  he  had  been  a Spaniard,  he  would  not  have  submitted 
to  it  so  patiently.  But  what  surprised  me  most  was,  that 
after  beating  his  servant,  the  master  would  sit  down,  and 
the  next  moment  would  begin  conversing  and  laughing  with 
him  as  if  nothing  had  happened,  and  the  giant  also  would 
laugh  and  converse  with  his  master,  for  all  the  world  as 
if  he  had  not  been  beaten. 

“ You  may  well  suppose,  Senor,  that  I understood 
nothing  of  their  discourse,  for  it  was  all  in  that  strange 
unchristian  tongue  in  which  the  giant  answered  me  when 
I spoke  to  him;  the  sound  of  it  is  still  ringing  in  my  ears. 
It  was  nothing  like  other  languages.  Not  like  Bascuen, 
not  like  the  language  in  which  your  worship  speaks  to  my 
namesake  Signor  Antonio  here.  Yalgame  Dios!  I can 
compare  it  to  nothing  but  the  sound  a person  makes 
when  he  rinses  his  mouth  with  water.  There  is  one  word 
which  I think  I still  remember,  for  it  was  continually 
proceeding  from  the  giant's  lips,  but  his  master  never  used 
it. 

“ But  the  strangest  part  of  the  story  is  yet  to  be  told. 
The  supper  was  ended,  and  the  night  was  rather  advanced, 
the  rain  still  beat  against  the  windows,  even  as  it  does  at 
this  moment.  Suddenly  the  jorobado  pulled  out  his 
wratch.  Yalgame  Dios!  such  a watch!  I will  tell  you  one 
thing,  Senor,  that  I could  purchase  all  the  Asturias,  and 
Muros  besides,  with  the  brilliants  which  shone  about  the 
sides  of  that  same  watch:  the  room  wanted  no  lamp, 

I trow,  so  great  was  the  splendour  which  they  cast.  So 
the  jorobado  looked  at  his  watch,  and  then  said  to  me, 
I shall  go  to  rest.  He  then  took  the  lamp  and  went  through 
the  gallery  to  his  room,  followed  by  his  big  servant.  Well, 
Senor,  I cleared  away  the  things,  and  then  waited  below 
for  the  servant,  for  whom  I had  prepared  a comfortable 
bed,  close  by  my  own.  Senor,  I waited  patiently  for  an 
hour,  till  at  last  my  patience  was  exhausted,  and  I ascended 
to  the  supper  apartment,  and  passed  through  the  gallery 
till  I came  to  the  door  of  the  strange  guest.  Senor,  what 
do  you  think  I saw  at  the  door?  ” 

“ How  should  I know?  ” I replied.  “ His  riding  boots 
perhaps.” 

“ No,  Senor,  I did  not  see  his  riding  boots;  but,  stretched 
on  the  floor  with  his  head  against  the  door,  so  that  it  was 


308 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


impossible  to  open  it  without  disturbing  him,  lay  the  big 
servant  fast  asleep,  his  immense  legs  reaching  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  the  gallery.  I crossed  myself,  as  well 
I might,  for  the  wind  was  howling  even  as  it  is  now,  and 
the  rain  was  rushing  down  into  the  gallery  in  torrents; 
yet  there  lay  the  big  servant  fast  asleep,  without  any 
covering,  without  any  pillow,  not  even  a log,  stretched 
out  before  his  master's  door. 

“ Senor,  I got  little  rest  that  night,  for  I said  to  myself, 
I have  evil  wizards  in  my  house,  folks  who  are  not  human. 
Once  or  twice  I went  up  and  peeped  into  the  gallery,  but 
there  still  lay  the  big  servant  fast  asleep,  so  I crossed  myself 
and  returned  to  my  bed  again." 

“ Well,"  said  I,  “ and  what  occurred  next  day?  " 

44  Nothing  particular  occurred  next  day:  the  jorobado 
came  down  and  said  comical  things  to  me  in  good  Spanish, 
and  the  big  servant  came  down,  but  whatever  he  said, 
and  he  did  not  say  much,  I understood  not,  for  it  was  in 
that  disastrous  jabber.  They  stayed  with  me  throughout 
the  day  till  after  supper-time,  and  then  the  jorobado  gave 
me  a gold  ounce,  and  mounting  their  horses,  they  both 
departed  as  strangely  as  they  had  come,  in  the  dark  night, 
I know  not  whither." 

44  Is  that  all?  " I demanded. 

“ No,  Senor,  it  is  not  all;  for  I was  right  in  supposing 
them  evil  brujos:  the  very  next  day  an  express  arrived 
and  a great  search  was  made  after  them,  and  I was  arrested 
for  having  harboured  them.  This  occurred  just  after  the 
present  wars  had  commenced.  It  was  said  they  were  spies 
and  emissaries  of  I don't  know  what  nation,  and  that  they 
had  been  in  all  parts  of  the  Asturias,  holding  conferences 
with  some  of  the  disaffected.  They  escaped,  however, 
and  were  never  heard  of  more,  though  the  animals  which 
they  rode  were  found  without  their  riders,  wandering 
amongst  the  hills;  they  were  common  ponies,  and  were 
of  no  value.  As  for  the  brujos,  it  is  believed  that  they 
embarked  in  some  small  vessel  which  was  lying  concealed 
in  one  of  the  rias  of  the  coast." 

Myself. — What  was  the  word  which  you  continually 
heard  proceeding  from  the  lips  of  the  big  servant,  and 
which  you  think  you  can  remember? 

Host. — Senor,  it  is  now  three  years  since  I heard  it, 
and  at  times  I can  remember  it  and  at  others  not;  some- 
times I have  started  up  in  my  sleep  repeating  it.  Stay, 
Senor,  I have  it  now  at  the  point  of  my  tongue:  it  was 
Patusca. 

Myself. — Batuschca,  you  mean;  the  men  were  Russians. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


309 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 

Oviedo — The  Ten  Gentlemen — The  Swiss  again — Modest  Request — The 
Robbers — Episcopal  Benevolence — The  Cathedral — Portrait  of  Feijoo. 

I must  now  take  a considerable  stride  in  my  journey,  no 
less  than  from  Muros  to  Oviedo,  contenting  myself  with 
observing,  that  we  proceeded  from  Muros  to  Velez,  and 
from  thence  to  Giyon,  where  our  guide  Martin  bade  us 
farewell,  and  returned  with  his  mare  to  Rivadeo.  The 
honest  fellow  did  not  part  without  many  expressions 
of  regret,  indeed  he  even  expressed  a desire  that  I should 
take  him  and  his  mare  into  my  service;  “ for,”  said  he, 
“ I have  a great  desire  to  run  through  all  Spain,  and  even 
the  world;  and  I am  sure  I shall  never  have  a better 
opportunity  than  by  attaching  myself  to  your  worship’s 
skirts.”  On  my  reminding  him,  however,  of  his  wife  and 
family,  for  he  had  both,  he  said,  “ True,  true,  I had  for- 
gotten them:  happy  the  guide  whose  only  wife  and  family 
are  a mare  and  foal.” 

Oviedo  is  about  three  leagues  from  Giyon.  Antonio 
rode  the  horse,  whilst  I proceeded  thither  in  a kind  of 
diligence  which  runs  daily  between  the  two  towns.  The 
road  is  good,  but  mountainous.  I arrived  safely  at  the 
capital  of  the  Asturias,  although  at  a rather  unpropitious 
season,  for  the  din  of  war  was  at  the  gate,  and  there  was 
the  cry  of  the  captains  and  the  shouting.  Castile,  at  the 
time  of  which  I am  writing,  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Cariists, 
who  had  captured  and  plundered  Valladolid  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  they  had  Segovia  some  time  before.  They 
were  every  day  expected  to  march  on  Oviedo,  in  which 
case  they  might  perhaps  have  experienced  some  resistance, 
a considerable  body  of  troops  being  stationed  there,  who 
had  erected  some  redoubts,  and  strongly  fortified  several 
of  the  convents,  especially  that  of  Santa  Clara  de  la  Vega. 
All  minds  were  in  a state  of  feverish  anxiety  and  suspense, 
more  especially  as  no  intelligence  arrived  from  Madrid, 
which  by  the  last  accounts  was  said  to  be  occupied  by  the 
bands  of  Cabrera  and  Palillos. 

So  it  came  to  pass  that  one  night  I found  myself  in 
the  ancient  town  of  Oviedo,  in  a very  large,  scantily- 
furnished,  and  remote  room  in  an  ancient  posada,  formerly 
a palace  of  the  counts  of  Santa  Cruz.  It  was  past  ten, 
and  the  rain  was  descending  in  torrents.  I was  writing, 
but  suddenly  ceased  on  hearing  numerous  footsteps 


310 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


ascending  the  creaking  stairs  which  led  to  my  apartment. 
The  door  was  flung  open,  and  in  walked  nine  men  of  tall 
stature,  marshalled  by  a little  hunchbacked  personage. 
They  were  all  muffled  in  the  long  cloaks  of  Spain,  but  I 
instantly  knew  by  their  demeanour  that  they  were  Cabal- 
leros, or  gentlemen.  They  placed  themselves  in  a rank 
before  the  table  where  I was  sitting.  Suddenly  and 
simultaneously  they  all  flung  back  their  cloaks,  and  I 
perceived  that  every  one  bore  a book  in  his  hand;  a book 
which  I knew  full  well.  After  a pause,  which  I was  unable 
to  break,  for  I sat  lost  in  astonishment,  and  almost  con- 
ceived myself  to  be  visited  by  apparitions,  the  hunchback, 
advancing  somewhat  before  the  rest,  said  in  soft  silvery 
tones,  “ Senor  Cavalier,  was  it  you  who  brought  this  book 
to  the  Asturias?  ” I now  supposed  that  they  were  the 
civil  authorities  of  the  place  come  to  take  me  into  custody, 
and,  rising  from  my  seat,  I exclaimed,  “ It  certainly  was 
I,  and  it  is  my  glory  to  have  done  so;  the  book  is  the 
New  Testament  of  God:  I wish  it  was  in  my  power  to 

bring  a million.”  “ I heartily  wish  so  too,”  said  the  little 
personage  with  a sigh.  “ Be  under  no  apprehension,  Sir 
Cavalier,  these  gentlemen  are  my  friends;  we  have  just 
purchased  these  books  in  the  shop  where  you  placed  them 
for  sale,  and  have  taken  the  liberty  of  calling  upon  you, 
in  order  to  return  you  our  thanks  for  the  treasure  you  have 
brought  us.  I hope  you  can  furnish  us  with  the  Old 
Testament  also.”  I replied  that  I was  sorry  to  inform 
him  that  at  present  it  was  entirely  out  of  my  power  to 
comply  with  his  wish,  as  I had  no  Old  Testaments  in  my 
possession,  but  did  not  despair  of  procuring  some  speedily 
from  England.  He  then  asked  me  a great  many  questions 
concerning  my  biblical  travels  in  Spain,  and  my  success, 
and  the  views  entertained  by  the  Society,  with  respect  to 
Spain,  adding  that  he  hoped  we  should  pay  particular 
attention  to  the  Asturias,  which  he  assured  me  was  the 
best  ground  in  the  Peninsula  for  our  labour.  After  about 
half  an  hour's  conversation,  he  suddenly  said,  in  the 
English  language,  “ Good  night,  Sir,”  wrapped  his  cloak 
around  him,  and  walked  out  as  he  had  come.  His  com- 
panions, who  had  hitherto  not  uttered  a word,  all  repeated 
“ Good  night,  Sir,”  and,  adjusting  their  cloaks,  followed 
him. 

In  order  to  explain  this  strange  scene,  I must  state 
that  in  the  morning  I had  visited  the  petty  bookseller 
of  the  place,  Longoria,  and  having  arranged  preliminaries 
with  him,  I sent  him  in  the  evening  a package  of  forty 
Testaments,  all  I possessed,  with  some  advertisements. 
At  the  time  he  assured  me  that,  though  he  was  willing  to 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


311 


undertake  the  sale,  there  was,  nevertheless,  not  a prospect 
of  success,  as  a whole  month  had  elapsed  since  he  had  sold 
a book  of  any  description,  on  account  of  the  uncertainty 
of  the  times,  and  the  poverty  which  pervaded  the  land; 
I therefore  felt  much  dispirited.  This  incident,  however, 
admonished  me  not  to  be  cast  down  when  things  look 
gloomiest,  as  the  hand  of  the  Lord  is  generally  then  most 
busy;  that  men  may  learn  to  perceive,  that  whatever  good 
is  accomplished  is  not  their  work  but  his. 

Two  or  three  days  after  this  adventure,  I was  once 
more  seated  in  my  large  scantily-furnished  room;  it  was 
about  ten,  of  a dark  melancholy  morning,  and  the  autumnal 
rain  was  again  falling.  I had  just  breakfasted,  and  was 
about  to  sit  down  to  my  journal,  when  the  door  was  flung 
open  and  in  bounded  Antonio. 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  quite  breathless,  “ who  do  you 
think  has  arrived?  ” 

“ The  pretender,  I suppose,”  said  I,  in  some  trepidation; 
“ if  so,  we  are  prisoners.” 

“ Bah,  bah!  ” said  Antonio,  “ it  is  not  the  pretender, 
but  one  worth  twenty  of  him;  it  is  the  Swiss  of  Saint 
James  99 

“ Benedict  Mol,  the  Swiss!  ” said  I,  “ What!  has  he 
found  the  treasure?  But  how  did  he  come?  How  is  he 
dressed?  ” 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ he  came  on  foot  if  we 
may  judge  by  his  shoes,  through  which  his  toes  are  sticking; 
and  as  for  his  dress,  he  is  in  most  villainous  apparel.” 

“ There  must  be  some  mystery  in  this,”  said  I;  “ where 
is  he  at  present?  ” 

“ Below,  mon  maitre,”  replied  Antonio;  “ he  came  in 
quest  of  us.  But  I no  sooner  saw  him,  than  I hurried 
away  to  let  you  know.” 

In  a few  minutes  Benedict  Mol  found  his  way  up  stairs; 
he  was,  as  Antonio  had  remarked,  in  most  villainous 
apparel,  and  nearly  barefooted;  his  old  Andalusian  hat 
was  dripping  with  rain. 

“ Och,  lieber  herr,”  said  Benedict,  “ how  rejoiced  I am 
to  see  you  again.  Oh,  the  sight  of  your  countenance  almost 
repays  me  for  all  the  miseries  I have  undergone  since  I 
parted  with  you  at  Saint  James.” 

Myself. — I can  scarcely  believe  that  I really  see  you 
here  at  Oviedo.  What  motive  can  have  induced  you  to 
come  to  such  an  out-of-the-way  place  from  such  an  immense 
distance? 

Benedict — Lieber  herr,  I will  sit  down  and  tell  you 
all  that  has  befallen  me.  Some  few  days  after  I saw  you 
last,  the  canonigo  persuaded  me  to  go  to  the  captain- 


312 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


general  to  apply  for  permission  to  disinter  the  schatz, 
and  also  to  crave  assistance.  So  I saw  the  captain-general, 
who  at  first  received  me  very  kindly,  asked  me  several 
questions,  and  told  me  to  come  again.  So  I continued 
visiting  him  till  he  would  see  me  no  longer,  and  do  what 
I might  I could  not  obtain  a glance  of  him.  The  canon 
now  became  impatient,  more  especially  as  he  had  given 
me  a few  pesetas  out  of  the  charities  of  the  church.  ITe 
frequently  called  me  a bribon  and  impostor.  At  last,  one 
morning  I went  to  him,  and  said  that  I had  proposed  to 
return  to  Madrid,  in  order  to  lay  the  matter  before  the 
government,  and  requested  that  he  would  give  me  a 
certificate  to  the  effect  that  I had  performed  a pilgrimage 
to  Saint  James,  which  I imagined  would  be  of  assistance 
to  me  upon  the  way,  as  it  would  enable  me  to  beg  with  some 
colour  of  authority.  He  no  sooner  heard  this  request, 
than,  without  saying  a word  or  allowing  me  a moment 
to  put  myself  on  my  defence,  he  sprang  upon  me  like  a 
tiger,  grasping  my  throat  so  hard  that  I thought  he  would 
have  strangled  me.  I am  a Swiss,  however,  and  a man  of 
Lucerne,  and  when  I had  recovered  myself  a little,  I had 
no  difficulty  in  flinging  him  off;  I then  threatened  him 
with  my  staff  and  went  away.  He  followed  me  to  the 
gate  with  the  most  horrid  curses,  saying  that  if  I presumed 
to  return  again,  he  would  have  me  thrown  at  once  into 
prison  as  a thief  and  a heretic.  So  I went  in  quest  of 
yourself,  lieber  herr,  but  they  told  me  that  you  were 
departed  for  Coruna;  I then  set  out  for  Coruna  after 
you. 

Myself . — And  what  befell  you  on  the  road? 

Benedict . — I will  tell  you:  about  half-way  between 

Saint  James  and  Coruna,  as  I was  walking  along,  thinking 
of  the  schatz,  I heard  a loud  galloping,  and  looking  around 
me  I saw  two  men  on  horseback  coming  across  the  field 
with  the  swiftness  of  the  wind,  and  making  directly  for 
me.  Lieber  Gott,  said  I,  these  are  thieves,  these  are 
factious;  and  so  they  were.  They  came  up  to  me  in  a 
moment  and  bade  me  stand,  so  I flung  down  my  staff, 
took  off  my  hat  and  saluted  them.  “ Good  day,  caballeros,” 
said  I to  them.  “ Good  day,  countryman,”  said  they  to  me, 
and  then  we  stood  staring  at  each  other  for  more  than 
a minute.  Lieber  himmel,  I never  saw  such  robbers; 
so  finely  dressed,  so  well  armed,  and  mounted  so  bravely 
on  two  fiery  little  hakkas,  that  looked  as  if  they  could  have 
taken  wing  and  flown  up  into  the  clouds!  So  we  continued 
staring  at  each  other,  till  at  last  one  asked  me  who  I was, 
whence  I came,  and  where  I was  going.  “ Gentlemen,” 
said  I,  “ I am  a Swiss,  I have  been  to  Saint  James  to 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


313 


perform  a religious  vow,  and  am  now  returning  to  my  own 
country.”  I said  not  a word  about  the  treasure,  for  I 
was  afraid  that  they  would  have  shot  me  at  once,  conceiving 
that  I carried  part  of  it  about  me.  “ Have  you  any 
money?  ” they  demanded.  “ Gentlemen/’  I replied,  " you 
see  how  I travel  on  foot,  with  my  shoes  torn  to  pieces; 
I should  not  do  so  if  I had  money.  I will  not  deceive 
you,  however,  I have  a peseta  and  a few  cuartos,”  and 
thereupon  I took  out  what  I had  and  offered  it  to  them. 
“ Fellow/’  said  they,  " we  are  caballeros  of  Galicia,  and 
do  not  take  pesetas,  much  less  cuartos.  Of  what  opinion 
are  you?  Are  you  for  the  queen?  ” “ No,  gentlemen/’ 

said  I,  “ I am  not  for  the  queen,  but,  at  the  same  time, 
allow  me  to  tell  you  that  I am  not  for  the  king  either; 
I know  nothing  about  the  matter;  I am  a Swiss,  and  fight 
neither  for  nor  against  anybody  unless  I am  paid.”  This 
made  them  laugh,  and  then  they  questioned  me  about 
Saint  James,  and  the  troops  there,  and  the  captain-general; 
and  not  to  disoblige  them,  I told  them  all  I knew  and  much 
more.  Then  one  of  them,  who  looked  the  fiercest  and 
most  determined,  took  his  trombone  in  his  hand,  and 
pointing  it  at  me,  said,  “ Had  you  been  a Spaniard,  we 
would  have  blown  your  head  to  shivers,  for  we  should  have 
thought  you  a spy,  but  we  see  you  are  a foreigner,  and 
believe  what  you  have  said;  take,  therefore,  this  peseta 
and  go  your  way,  but  beware  that  you  tell  nobody  any 
thing  about  us,  for  if  you  do,  carracho!”  He  then  dis- 
charged his  trombone  just  over  my  head,  so  that  for  a 
moment  I thought  myself  shot,  and  then  with  an  awful 
shout,  they  both  galloped  away,  their  horses  leaping  over 
the  barrancos,  as  if  possessed  with  many  devils. 

Myself. — And  what  happened  to  you  on  your  arrival 
at  Coruna? 

Benedict. — When  I arrived  at  Coruna,  I inquired  after 
yourself,  lieber  herr,  and  they  informed  me  that,  only  the 
day  before  my  arrival,  you  had  departed  for  Oviedo:  and 
when  I heard  that,  my  heart  died  within  me,  for  I was 
now  at  the  far  end  of  Galicia,  without  a friend  to  help  me. 
For  a day  or  two  I knew  not  what  to  do;  at  last  I deter- 
mined to  make  for  the  frontier  of  France,  passing  through 
Oviedo  in  the  way,  where  I hoped  to  see  you  and  ask  counsel 
of  you.  So  I begged  and  bettled  among  the  Germans 
of  Coruna.  I,  however,  got  very  little  from  them,  only  a 
few  cuarts,  less  than  the  thieves  had  given  me  on  the  road 
from  Saint  James,  and  with  these  I departed  for  the 
Asturias  by  the  way  of  Mondonedo.  Och,  what  a town 
is  that,  full  of  canons,  priests,  and  pfaifen,  all  of  them 
more  Carlist  than  Carlos  himself. 


314 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


One  day  I went  to  the  bishop’s  palace  and  spoke  to 
him,  telling  him  I was  a pilgrim  from  Saint  James,  and 
requesting  assistance.  He  told  me,  however,  that  he 
could  not  relieve  me,  and  as  for  my  being  a pilgrim  from 
Saint  James,  he  was  glad  of  it,  and  hoped  that  it  would 
be  of  service  to  my  soul.  So  I left  Mondonedo,  and  got 
amongst  the  wild  mountains,  begging  and  bettling  at  the 
door  of  every  choza  that  I passed,  telling  all  I saw  that  I 
was  a pilgrim  from  Saint  James,  and  showing  my  passport 
in  proof  that  I had  been  there.  Lieber  herr,  no  person 
gave  me  a cuart,  nor  even  a piece  of  broa,  and  both 
Gallegans  and  Asturians  laughed  at  Saint  James,  and  told 
me  that  his  name  was  no  longer  a passport  in  Spain.  I 
should  have  starved  if  I had  not  sometimes  plucked  an  ear 
or  two  out  of  the  maize  fields;  I likewise  gathered  grapes 
from  the  parras  and  berries  from  the  brambles,  and  in  this 
manner  I subsisted  till  I arrived  at  the  bellotas,  where  I 
slaughtered  a stray  kid  which  I met,  and  devoured  part 
of  the  flesh  raw,  so  great  was  my  hunger.  It  made  me, 
however,  very  ill,  and  for  two  days  I lay  in  a barranco 
half  dead  and  unable  to  help  myself;  it  was  a mercy  that 
I was  not  devoured  by  the  wolves.  I then  struck  across 
the  country  for  Oviedo:  how  I reached  it  I do  not  know; 
I was  like  one  walking  in  a dream.  Last  night  I slept  in 
an  empty  hogsty  about  two  leagues  from  here,  and  ere  I 
left  it,  I fell  down  on  my  knees  and  prayed  to  God  that  I 
might  find  you,  lieber  herr,  for  you  were  my  last  hope. 

Myself. — And  what  do  you  propose  to  do  at  present? 

Benedict . — What  can  I say,  lieber  herr?  I know  not 
what  to  do.  I will  be  guided  in  everything  by  your  counsel. 

Myself. — I shall  remain  at  Oviedo  a few  days  longer, 
during  which  time  you  can  lodge  at  this  posada,  and 
endeavour  to  recover  from  the  fatigue  of  your  disastrous 
journeys;  perhaps  before  I depart,  we  may  hit  on  some 
plan  to  extricate  you  from  your  present  difficulties. 

Oviedo  contains  about  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  is  picturesquely  situated  between  two  mountains, 
Morcin  and  Naranco;  the  former  is  very  high  and  rugged, 
and  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  is  covered  with 
snow;  the  sides  of  the  latter  are  cultivated  and  planted 
with  vines.  The  principal  ornament  of  the  town  is  the 
cathedral,  the  tower  of  which  is  exceedingly  lofty,  and 
is  perhaps  one  of  the  purest  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture 
at  present  in  existence.  The  interior  of  the  ‘cathedral  is 
neat  and  appropriate,  but  simple  and  unadorned.  I 
observed  but  one  picture,  the  Conversion  of  Saint  Paul. 
One  of  the  chapels  is  a cemetery,  in  which  rest  the  bones 
of  eleven  Gothic  kings;  to  whose  souls  be  peace. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


315 


I bore  a letter  of  recommendation  from  Coruna  to  a 
merchant  of  Oviedo.  This  person  received  me  very 
courteously,  and  generally  devoted  some  portion  of  every 
day  to  showing  me  the  remarkable  things  of  Oviedo. 

One  morning  he  thus  addressed  me:  “ You  have 

doubtless  heard  of  Feijoo,  the  celebrated  philosophic  monk 
of  the  order  of  Saint  Benedict,  whose  writings  have  so 
much  tended  to  remove  the  popular  fallacies  and  super- 
stitions so  long  cherished  in  Spain;  he  is  buried  in  one  of 
our  convents,  where  he  passed  a considerable  portion  of 
his  life.  Come  with  me  and  I will  show  you  his  portrait. 
Carlos  Tercero,  our  great  king,  sent  his  own  painter  from 
Madrid  to  execute  it.  It  is  now  in  the  possession  of  a 
friend  of  mine,  Don  Ramon  Valdez,  an  advocate.,, 

Thereupon  he  led  me  to  the  house  of  Don  Ramon 
Valdez,  who  very  politely  exhibited  the  portrait  of  Feijoo. 
It  was  circular  in  shape,  about  a foot  in  diameter,  and  was 
surrounded  by  a little  brass  frame,  something  like  the 
rim  of  a barber’s  basin.  The  countenance  was  large  and 
massive  but  fine,  the  eyebrows  knit,  the  eyes  sharp  and 
penetrating,  nose  aquiline.  On  the  head  was  a silken 
skull-cap ; the  collar  of  the  coat  or  vest  was  just  perceptible. 
The  painting  was  decidedly  good,  and  struck  me  as  being 
one  of  the  very  best  specimens  of  modern  Spanish  art 
which  I had  hitherto  seen. 

A day  or  two  after  this  I said  to  Benedict  Mol,  “ to- 
morrow I start  from  hence  for  Santander.  It  is  therefore 
high  time  that  you  decide  upon  some  course,  whether  to 
return  to  Madrid  or  to  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  France, 
and  from  thence  proceed  to  your  own  country.” 

" Lieber  herr,”  said  Benedict,  “ I will  follow  you  to 
Santander  by  short  journeys,  for  I am  unable  to  make 
long  ones  amongst  these  hills;  and  when  I am  there, 
peradventure  I may  find  some  means  of  passing  into 
France.  It  is  a great  comfort,  in  my  horrible  journeys, 
to  think  that  I am  travelling  over  the  ground  which  yourself 
have  trodden,  and  to  hope  that  I am  proceeding  to  rejoin 
you  once  more.  This  hope  kept  me  alive  in  the  bellotas, 
and  without  it  I should  never  have  reached  Oviedo.  I will 
quit  Spain  as  soon  as  possible,  and  betake  me  to  Lucerne, 
though  it  is  a hard  thing  to  leave  the  schatz  behind  me  in 
the  land  of  the  Gallegans.” 

Thereupon  I presented  him  with  a few  dollars. 

“ A strange  man  is  this  Benedict,”  said  Antonio  to  me 
next  morning,  as,  accompanied  by  a guide,  we  sallied 
forth  from  Oviedo;  “ a strange  man,  mon  maitre,  is  this 
same  Benedict.  A strange  life  has  he  led,  and  a strange 
death  he  will  die, — it  is  written  on  his  countenance.  That 


316 


TIIE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


he  will  leave  Spain  I do  not  believe,  or  if  he  leave  it,  it 
will  be  only  to  return,  for  he  is  bewitched  about  this 
treasure.  Last  night  he  sent  for  a sorciere,  whom  he 
consulted  in  my  presence;  and  she  told  him  that  he  was 
doomed  to  possess  it,  but  that  first  of  all  he  must  cross 
water.  She  cautioned  him  likewise  against  an  enemy, 
which  he  supposes  must  be  the  canon  of  Saint  James. 
I have  often  heard  people  speak  of  the  avidity  of  the  Swiss 
for  money,  and  here  is  a proof  of  it.  I would  not  undergo 
what  Benedict  has  suffered  in  these  last  journeys  of  his, 
to  possess  all  the  treasures  in  Spain.” 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 

Departure  from  Oviedo  — Villa  Viciosa  — The  Young  Man  of  the  Inn— 
Antonio’s  Tale — The  General  and  his  Family — Woful  Tidings — To- 
morrow we  Die — San  Vincente — Santander — An  Harangue — Flinter 
the  Irishman. 

So  we  left  Oviedo  and  directed  our  course  towards 
Santander.  The  man  who  accompanied  us  as  guide, 
and  from  whom  I hired  the  pony  on  which  I rode,  had 
been  recommended  to  me  by  my  friend  the  merchant  of 
Oviedo.  He  proved,  however,  a lazy  indolent  fellow; 
he  was  generally  loitering  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
in  our  rear,  and  instead  of  enlivening  the  way  with  song 
and  tale,  like  our  late  guide,  Martin  of  Rivadeo,  he  scarcely 
ever  opened  his  lips,  save  to  tell  us  not  to  go  so  fast,  or  that 
I should  burst  his  pony  if  I spurred  him  so.  He  was 
thievish  withal,  and  though  he  had  engaged  to  make  the 
journey  seco,  that  is,  to  defray  the  charges  of  himself  and 
beast,  he  contrived  throughout  to  keep  both  at  our  expense. 
When  journeying  in  Spain,  it  is  invariably  the  cheapest 
plan  to  agree  to  maintain  the  guide  and  his  horse  or  mule, 
for  by  so  doing  the  hire  is  diminished  at  least  one  third, 
and  the  bills  upon  the  road  are  seldom  increased:  whereas, 
in  the  other  case,  he  pockets  the  difference,  and  yet  goes 
shot  free,  and  at  the  expense  of  the  traveller,  through  the 
connivance  of  the  innkeepers,  who  have  a kind  of  fellow 
feeling  with  the  guides. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Villa  Viciosa,  a small 
dirty  town,  at  the  distance  of  eight  leagues  from  Oviedo: 
it  stands  beside  a creek  which  communicates  with  the 
Bay  of  Biscay.  It  is  sometimes  called  La  Capital  de 
las  Avellanas,  or  the  capital  of  the  Filberts,  from  the 
immense  quantity  of  this  fruit  which  is  grown  in  the  neigh- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


317 


bourhood;  and  the  greatest  part  of  which  is  exported  to 
England.  As  we  drew  nigh  we  overtook  numerous  cars 
laden  with  avellanas  proceeding  in  the  direction  of  the  town. 
I was  informed  that  several  small  English  vessels  were 
lying  in  the  harbour.  Singular  as  it  may  seem,  however, 
notwithstanding  we  were  in  the  capital  of  the  Avellanas, 
it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  I procured  a scanty 
handful  for  my  dessert,  and  of  these  more  than  one  half 
were  decayed.  The  people  of  the  house  informed  me 
that  the  nuts  were  intended  for  exportation,  and  that  they 
never  dreamt  either  of  partaking  of  them  themselves  or  of 
offering  them  to  their  guests. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  day  we  reached 
Golunga,  a beautiful  village  on  a rising  ground,  thickly 
planted  with  chestnut  trees.  It  is  celebrated,  at  least 
in  the  Asturias,  as  being  the  birthplace  of  Arguelles,  the 
father  of  the  Spanish  constitution. 

As  we  dismounted  at  the  door  of  the  posada,  where 
we  intended  to  refresh  ourselves,  a person  who  was  leaning 
out  of  an  upper  window  uttered  an  exclamation  and  dis- 
appeared. We  were  yet  at  the  door,  when  the  same 
individual  came  running  forth  and  cast  himself  on  the 
neck  of  Antonio.  He  was  a good-looking  young  man, 
apparently  about  five  and  twenty,  genteelly  dressed,  with 
a Montero  cap  on  his  head.  Antonio  looked  at  him  for  a 
moment,  and  then  with  a Ah,  Monsieur,  est  ce  bien  vous  ? 
shook  him  affectionately  by  the  hand.  The  stranger  then 
motioned  him  to  follow  him,  and  they  forthwith  proceeded 
to  the  room  above. 

Wondering  what  this  could  mean,  I sat  down  to  my 
morning  repast.  Nearly  an  hour  elapsed,  and  still  Antonio 
did  not  make  his  appearance;  through  the  boards,  how- 
ever, which  composed  the  ceiling  of  the  kitchen  where  I sat, 
I could  hear  the  voices  of  himself  and  his  acquaintance, 
and  thought  that  I could  occasionally  distinguish  the  sound 
of  broken  sobs  and  groans;  at  last  there  was  a long  pause. 
I became  impatient,  and  was  about  to  summon  Antonio, 
when  he  made  his  appearance,  but  unaccompanied  by  the 
stranger.  “ What,  in  the  name  of  all  that  is  singular,” 
I demanded,  “ have  you  been  about?  Who  is  that  man?  ” 
“ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ c’est  un  monsieur  de  ma 
connoissance.  With  your  permission  I will  now  take  a 
mouthful,  and  as  we  journey  along  I will  tell  you  all  that 
I know  of  him.” 

“ Monsieur,”  said  Antonio,  as  we  rode  out  of  Golunga, 
" you  are  anxious  to  know  the  history  of  the  gentleman 
whom  you  saw  embrace  me  at  the  inn.  Know,  mon 
maitre,  that  these  Garlist  and  Ghristino  wars  have  beer 


318 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  cause  of  much  misery  and  misfortune  in  this  country, 
but  a being  so  thoroughly  unfortunate  as  that  poor  young 
gentleman  of  the  inn,  I do  not  believe  is  to  be  found  in 
Spain,  and  his  misfortunes  proceed  entirely  from  the 
spirit  of  party  and  faction  which  for  some  time  past  has 
been  so  prevalent. 

“ Mon  maitre,  as  I have  often  told  you,  I have  lived 
in  many  houses  and  served  many  masters,  and  it  chanced 
that  about  ten  years  ago  I served  the  father  of  this  gentle- 
man, who  was  then  a mere  boy.  It  was  a very  high  family, 
for  monsieur  the  father  was  a general  in  the  army,  and  a 
man  of  large  possessions.  The  family  consisted  of  the 
general,  his  lady,  and  two  sons;  the  youngest  of  whom 
is  the  person  you  have  just  seen,  the  other  was  several 
years  older.  Pardieu ! I felt  myself  very  comfortable 
in  that  house,  and  every  individual  of  the  family  had  all 
kind  of  complaisance  for  me.  It  is  singular  enough,  that 
though  I have  been  turned  out  of  so  many  families,  I was 
never  turned  out  of  that ; and  though  I left  it  thrice,  it 
was  of  my  own  free  will.  I became  dissatisfied  with  the 
other  servants  or  with  the  dog  or  the  cat.  The  last 
time  I left  was  on  account  of  the  quail  which  was  hung  out 
of  the  window  of  madame,  and  which  waked  me  in  the 
morning  with  its  call.  Eh  bien , mon  maitre , things  went 
on  in  this  way  during  the  three  years  that  I continued 
in  the  family,  out  and  in;  at  the  end  of  which  time  it  was 
determined  that  the  young  gentleman  should  travel,  and 
it  was  proposed  that  I should  attend  him  as  valet;  this 
I wished  very  much  to  do.  However,  par  malheur,  I was 
at  this  time  very  much  dissatisfied  with  madame  his 
mother  about  the  quail,  and  I insisted  that  before  I accom- 
panied him  the  bird  should  be  slaughtered  for  the  kitchen. 
To  this  madame  would  by  no  means  consent;  and  even 
the  young  gentleman,  who  had  always  taken  my  part 
on  other  occasions,  said  that  I was  unreasonable:  so  I 
left  the  house  in  a huff,  and  never  entered  it  again. 

“ Eh  bien , mon  maitre , the  young  gentleman  went 
upon  his  travels,  and  continued  abroad  several  years; 
and  from  the  time  of  his  departure  until  we  met  him  at 
Colunga,  I have  not  set  eyes  upon,  nor  indeed  heard  of 
him.  I have  heard  enough,  however,  of  his  family;  of 
monsieur  the  father,  of  madame,  and  of  the  brother,  who 
was  an  officer  of  cavalry.  A short  time  before  the  troubles, 
I mean  before  the  death  of  Ferdinand,  monsieur  the  father 
was  appointed  captain-general  of  Coruna.  Now  monsieur, 
though  a good  master,  was  rather  a proud  man,  and  fond 
of  discipline  and  all  that  kind  of  thing,  and  of  obedience. 
He  was,  moreover,  no  friend  to  the  populace,  to  the  canaille. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


319 


and  he  had  a particular  aversion  to  the  nationals.  So 
when  Ferdinand  died,  it  was  whispered  about  at  Coruna, 
that  the  general  was  no  liberal,  and  that  he  was  a better 
friend  to  Carlos  than  to  Christina.  Eh  bien , it  chanced 
that  there  was  a grand  fete,  or  festival  at  Coruna,  on  the 
water;  and  the  nationals  were  there,  and  the  soldiers. 
And  I know  not  how  it  befell,  but  there  was  an  emeute, 
and  the  nationals  laid  hands  on  monsieur  the  general, 
and  tying  a rope  round  his  neck,  flung  him  overboard  from 
the  barge  in  which  he  was,  and  then  dragged  him  astern 
about  the  harbour  until  he  was  drowned.  They  then  went 
to  his  house  and  pillaged  it,  and  so  ill-treated  madame, 
who  at  that  time  happened  to  be  enceinte,  that  in  a few 
hours  she  expired. 

“ I tell  you  what,  mon  maitre,  when  I heard  of  the 
misfortune  of  madame  and  the  general,  you  would  scarcely 
believe  it,  but  I actually  shed  tears,  and  was  sorry  that  I 
had  parted  with  them  in  unkindness  on  account  of  that 
pernicious  quail. 

“ Eh  bien , mon  maitre , nous  poursuivrons  noire  histoire . 
The  eldest  son,  as  I told  you  before,  was  a cavalry  officer, 
and  a man  of  resolution,  and  when  he  heard  of  the  death 
of  his  father  and  mother,  he  vowed  revenge.  Poor  fellow  I 
but  what  does  he  do  but  desert,  with  two  or  three  dis- 
contented spirits  of  his  troop,  and  going  to  the  frontier  of 
Galicia,  he  raised  a small  faction,  and  proclaimed  Don 
Carlos.  For  some  little  time  he  did  considerable  damage 
to  the  liberals,  burning  and  destroying  their  possessions, 
and  putting  to  death  several  nationals  that  fell  into  his 
hands.  However,  this  did  not  last  long,  his  faction  was 
soon  dispersed,  and  he  himself  taken  and  hanged,  and  his 
head  stuck  on  a pole. 

“ Nous  sommes  deja  presque  au  bout  When  we  arrived 
at  the  inn,  the  young  man  took  me  above,  as  you  saw, 
and  there  for  some  time  he  could  do  nothing  but  weep  and 
sob.  His  story  is  soon  told: — he  returned  from  his  travels, 
and  the  first  intelligence  which  awaited  him  on  his  arrival 
in  Spain  was,  that  his  father  was  drowned,  his  mother  dead, 
and  his  brother  hanged,  and,  moreover,  all  the  possessions 
of  his  family  confiscated.  This  was  not  all:  wherever  he 
went,  he  found  himself  considered  in  the  light  of  a factious 
and  discontented  person,  and  was  frequently  assailed  by 
the  nationals  with  blows  of  sabres  and  cudgels.  He  applied 
to  his  relations,  and  some  of  these,  who  were  of  the  Carlist 
persuasion,  advised  him  to  betake  himself  to  the  army 
of  Don  Carlos,  and  the  Pretender  himself,  who  was  a friend 
of  his  father,  and  remembered  the  services  of  his  brother, 
offered  to  give  him  a command  in  his  army.  But,  mon 


320 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


maitre,  as  I told  you  before,  he  was  a pacific  young  gentle- 
man, and  as  mild  as  a lamb,  and  hated  the  idea  of  shedding 
blood.  He  was,  moreover,  not  of  the  Carlist  opinion, 
for  during  his  studies  he  had  read  books  written  a long 
time  ago  by  countrymen  of  mine,  all  about  republics  and 
liberties,  and  the  rights  of  man,  so  that  he  was  much  more 
inclined  to  the  liberal  than  the  Carlist  system;  he  therefore 
declined  the  offer  of  Don  Carlos,  whereupon  all  his  relations 
deserted  him,  whilst  the  liberals  hunted  him  from  one  place 
to  another  like  a wild  beast.  At  last,  he  sold  some  little 
property  which  still  remained  to  him,  and  with  the  proceeds 
he  came  to  this  remote  place  of  Colunga,  where  no  one  knew 
him,  and  where  he  has  been  residing  for  several  months, 
in  a most  melancholy  manner,  with  no  other  amusement 
than  that  which  he  derives  from  a book  or  two,  or  occasion- 
ally hunting  a leveret  with  his  spaniel. 

“ He  asked  me  for  counsel,  but  I had  none  to  give  him, 
and  could  only  weep  with  him.  At  last  he  said,  ‘ Dear 
Antonio,  I see  there  is  no  remedy.  You  say  your  master 
is  below,  beg  him,  I pray,  to  stay  till  to-morrow,  and  we 
will  send  for  the  maidens  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  for 
a violin  and  a bagpipe,  and  we  will  dance  and  cast  away 
care  for  a moment/  And  then  he  said  something  in  old 
Greek,  which  I scarcely  understood,  but  which  I think 
was  equivalent  to,  ‘ Let  us  eat,  drink,  and  be  merry,  for 
to-morrow  we  die!  * 

“ Eh  bien,  mon  maitre , I told  him  that  you  were  a 
serious  gentleman  who  never  took  any  amusement,  and 
that  you  were  in  a hurry.  Whereupon  he  wept  again, 
and  embraced  me  and  bade  me  farewell.  And  now,  mon 
maitre,  I have  told  you  the  history  of  the  young  man  of 
the  inn.,, 

We  slept  at  Ribida  de  Sela,  and  the  next  day,  at  noon, 
arrived  at  Llanes.  Our  route  lay  between  the  coast  and 
an  immense  range  of  mountains,  which  rose  up  like  huge 
ramparts  at  about  a league's  distance  from  the  sea.  The 
ground  over  which  we  passed  was  tolerably  level,  and 
seemingly  well  cultivated.  There  was  no  lack  of  vines 
and  trees,  whilst  at  short  intervals  rose  the  cortijos  of  the 
proprietors, — square  stone  buildings  surrounded  with  an 
outer  wall.  Llanes  is  an  old  town,  formerly  of  considerable 
strength.  In  its  neighbourhood  is  the  convent  of  San 
Cilorio,  one  of  the  largest  monastic  edifices  in  all  Spain. 
It  is  now  deserted,  and  stands  lone  and  desolate  upon  one 
of  the  peninsulas  of  the  Cantabrian  shore.  Leaving  Llanes, 
we  soon  entered  one  of  the  most  dreary  and  barren  regions 
imaginable,  a region  of  rock  and  stone,  where  neither  grass 
nor  trees  were  to  be  seen.  Night  overtook  us  in  these  places. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


321 


We  wandered  on,  however,  until  we  reached  a small  village, 
termed  Santo  Colombo.  Here  we  passed  the  night,  in  the 
house  of  a carabineer  of  the  revenue,  a tall  athletic  figure 
who  met  us  at  the  gate  armed  with  a gun.  He  was  a 
Castilian,  and  with  all  that  ceremonious  formality  and 
grave  politeness  for  which  his  countrymen  were  at  one  time 
so  celebrated.  He  chid  his  wife  for  conversing  with  her 
handmaid  about  the  concerns  of  the  house  before  us. 
“ Barbara,”  said  he,  “ this  is  not  conversation  calculated 
to  interest  the  strange  cavaliers;  hold  your  peace,  or  go 
aside  with  the  muchacha.”  In  the  morning  he  refused 
any  remuneration  for  his  hospitality.  “ I am  a caballero,” 
said  he,  “ even  as  yourselves.  It  is  not  my  custom  to 
admit  people  into  my  house  for  the  sake  of  lucre.  I 
received  you  because  you  were  benighted  and  the  posada 
distant.” 

Rising  early  in  the  morning,  we  pursued  our  way 
through  a country  equally  stony  and  dreary  as  that  which 
we  had  entered  upon  the  preceding  day.  In  about  four 
hours  we  reached  San  Vincente,  a large  dilapidated  town, 
chiefly  inhabited  by  miserable  fishermen.  It  retains, 
however,  many  remarkable  relics  of  former  magnificence: 
the  bridge,  which  bestrides  the  broad  and  deep  firth,  on 
which  stands  the  town,  has  no  less  than  thirty-two  arches, 
and  is  built  of  grey  granite.  It  is  very  ancient,  and  in 
some  part  in  so  ruinous  a condition  as  to  be  dangerous. 

Leaving  San  Vincente  behind  us,  we  travelled  for  some 
leagues  on  the  sea-shore,  crossing  occasionally  a narrow 
inlet  or  firth.  The  country  at  last  began  to  improve,  and 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Santillana  was  both  beautiful 
and  fertile.  About  a league  before  we  reached  the  country 
of  Gil  Bias,  we  passed  through  an  extensive  wood,  in  which 
were  rocks  and  precipices;  it  was  exactly  such  a place  as 
that  in  which  the  cave  of  Rolando  was  situated,  as  described 
in  the  novel.  This  wood  has  an  evil  name,  and*  our  guide 
informed  us  that  robberies  were  occasionally  committed 
in  it.  No  adventure,  however,  befell  us,  and  we  reached 
Santillana  at  about  six  in  the  evening. 

We  did  not  enter  the  town,  but  halted  at  a large  venta 
or  posada  at  the  entrance,  before  which  stood  an  immense 
ash  tree.  We  had  scarcely  housed  ourselves  when  a 
tremendous  storm  of  rain  and  wind  commenced,  accom- 
panied with  thunder  and  lightning,  which  continued 
without  much  interruption  for  several  hours,  and  the  effects 
of  which  were  visible  in  our  journey  of  the  following  day, 
the  streams  over  which  we  passed  being  much  swollen, 
and  several  trees  lying  uptorn  by  the  wayside.  Santillana 
contains  four  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  six  short  leagues’ 
33— t 


322  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

distance  from  Santander,  where  we  arrived  early  the  next 
day. 

Nothing  could  exhibit  a stronger  contrast  to  the 
desolate  tracts  and  the  half  ruined  towns  through  which 
we  had  lately  passed,  than  the  bustle  and  activity  of 
Santander,  which,  though  it  stands  on  the  confines  of  the 
Basque  provinces,  the  stronghold  of  the  Pretender,  is 
almost  the  only  city  in  Spain  which  has  not  suffered  by  the 
Carlist  wars.  Till  the  close  of  the  last  century  it  was 
little  better  than  an  obscure  fishing  town,  but  it  has 
of  late  years  almost  entirely  engrossed  the  commerce  of 
the  Spanish  transatlantic  possessions,  especially  of  the 
Havannah.  The  consequence  of  which  has  been,  that 
whilst  Santander  has  rapidly  increased  in  wealth  and 
magnificence,  both  Coruna  and  Cadiz  have  been  as  rapidly 
hastening  to  decay.  At  present  it  possesses  a noble  quay, 
on  which  stands  a line  of  stately  edifices,  far  exceeding 
in  splendour  the  palaces  of  the  aristocracy  at  Madrid. 
These  are  built  in  the  French  style,  and  are  chiefly  occupied 
by  the  merchants.  The  population  of  Santander  is 
estimated  at  sixty  thousand  souls. 

On  the  day  of  my  arrival  I dined  at  the  table  d’hote 
of  the  principal  inn,  kept  by  a Genoese.  The  company 
was  very  miscellaneous,  French,  Germans,  and  Spaniards, 
all  speaking  in  their  respective  languages,  whilst  at  the 
ends  of  the  table,  confronting  each  other,  sat  two  Catalan 
merchants,  one  of  whom  weighed  nearly  twenty  stone, 
grunting  across  the  board  in  their  harsh  dialect.  Long, 
however,  before  dinner  was  concluded,  the  conversation 
was  entirely  engrossed  and  the  attention  of  all  present 
directed  to  an  individual  who  sat  on  one  side  of  the  bulky 
Catalan.  He  was  a thin  man  of  about  the  middle  height, 
with  a remarkably  red  face,  and  something  in  his  eyes 
which,  if  not  a squint,  bore  a striking  resemblance  to  it. 
He  was  dressed  in  a blue  military  frock,  and  seemed  to 
take  much  more  pleasure  in  haranguing  than  in  the  fare 
which  was  set  before  him.  He  spoke  perfectly  good 
Spanish,  yet  his  voice  betrayed  something  of  a foreign 
accent.  For  a long  time  he  descanted  with  immense 
volubility  on  war  and  all  its  circumstances,  freely  criticising 
the  conduct  of  the  generals,  both  Carlists  and  Christinos, 
in  the  present  struggle,  till  at  last  he  exclaimed,  “ Had  I 
but  twenty  thousand  men  allowed  me  by  the  government, 
I would  bring  the  war  to  a conclusion  in  six  months.” 

“ Pardon  me,  Sir,”  said  a Spaniard  who  sat  at  the  table, 
“ the  curiosity  which  induces  me  to  request  the  favour 
of  your  distinguished  name.” 

“ I am  Flinter,”  replied  the  individual  in  the  military 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


323 


frock,  “ a name  which  is  in  the  mouth  of  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  in  Spain.  I am  Flinter  the  Irishman, 
just  escaped  from  the  Basque  provinces  and  the  claws 
of  Don  Carlos.  On  the  decease  of  Ferdinand  I declared 
for  Isabella,  esteeming  it  the  duty  of  every  good  cavalier 
and  Irishman  in  the  Spanish  service  to  do  so.  You  have 
all  heard  of  my  exploits,  and  permit  me  to  tell  you  they 
would  have  been  yet  more  glorious  had  not  jealousy  been 
at  work  and  cramped  my  means.  Two  years  ago  I was 
despatched  to  Estremadura,  to  organize  the  militias. 
The  bands  of  Gomez  and  Cabrera  entered  the  province 
and  spread  devastation  around.  They  found  me,  however, 
at  my  post;  and  had  I been  properly  seconded  by  those 
under  my  command,  the  two  rebels  would  never  have 
returned  to  their  master  to  boast  of  their  success.  I 
stood  behind  my  intrenchments.  A man  advanced  and 
summoned  us  to  surrender.  ‘ Who  are  you?  9 I demanded. 

‘ I am  Cabrera/  he  replied;  ‘ and  I am  Flinter/  I retorted, 
flourishing  my  sabre;  ‘retire  to  your  battalions  or  you 
will  forthwith  die  the  death/  He  was  awed  and  did  as 
I commanded.  In  an  hour  we  surrendered.  I was  led  a 
prisoner  to  the  Basque  provinces;  and  the  Carlists  rejoiced 
in  the  capture  they  had  made,  for  the  name  of  Flinter  had 
long  sounded  amongst  the  Carlist  ranks.  I was  flung  into 
a loathsome  dungeon,  where  I remained  twenty  months. 
I was  cold;  I was  naked;  but  I did  not  on  that  account 
despond,  my  spirit  was  too  indomitable  for  such  weakness. 
My  keeper  at  last  pitied  my  misfortunes.  He  said  that 
* it  grieved  him  to  see  so  valiant  a man  perish  in  inglorious 
confinement/  We  laid  a plan  to  escape  together;  disguises 
were  provided,  and  we  made  the  attempt.  We  passed 
unobserved  till  we  arrived  at  the  Carlist  lines  above  Bilbao; 
there  we  were  stopped.  My  presence  of  mind,  however, 
did  not  desert  me.  I was  disguised  as  a carman,  as  a 
Catalan,  and  the  coolness  of  my  answers  deceived  my 
interrogators.  We  were  permitted  to  pass,  and  soon  were 
safe  within  the  walls  of  Bilbao.  There  was  an  illumination 
that  night  in  the  town,  for  the  lion  had  burst  his  toils, 
Flinter  had  escaped,  and  was  once  more  returned  to  re- 
animate a drooping  cause.  I have  just  arrived  at  Santander 
on  my  way  to  Madrid,  where  I intend  to  ask  of  the  govern- 
ment a command,  with  twenty  thousand  men/' 

Poor  Flinter!  a braver  heart  and  a more  gasconading 
mouth  were  surely  never  united  in  the  same  body.  He 
proceeded  to  Madrid,  and  through  the  influence  of  the 
British  ambassador,  who  was  his  friend,  he  obtained  the 
command  of  a small  division,  with  which  he  contrived  to 
surprise  and  defeat,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Toledo,  a 


324 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


body  of  the  Carlists,  commanded  by  Orejita,  whose  numbers 
more  than  trebled  his  own.  In  reward  for  this  exploit 
he  was  persecuted  by  the  government,  which,  at  that 
time,  was  the  moderado  or  juste  milieu,  with  the  most 
relentless  animosity;  the  prime  minister,  Ofalia,  supporting 
with  all  his  influence  numerous  and  ridiculous  accusations 
of  plunder  and  robbery  brought  against  the  too-successful 
general  by  the  Garlist  canons  of  Toledo.  He  was  likewise 
charged  with  a dereliction  of  duty,  in  having  permitted, 
after  the  battle  of  Valdepenas,  which  he  likewise  won  in 
the  most  gallant  manner,  the  Garlist  force  to  take  possession 
of  the  mines  of  Almaden,  although  the  government,  who 
were  bent  on  his  ruin,  had  done  all  in  their  power  to  prevent 
him  from  following  up  his  successes  by  denying  him  the 
slightest  supplies  and  reinforcements.  The  fruits  of 
victory  thus  wrested  from  him,  his  hopes  blighted,  a morbid 
melancholy  seized  upon  the  Irishman;  he  resigned  his 
command,  and  in  less  than  ten  months  from  the  period 
when  I saw  him  at  Santander,  afforded  his  dastardly  and 
malignant  enemies  a triumph  which  satisfied  even  them, 
by  cutting  his  own  throat  with  a razor. 

Ardent  spirits  of  foreign  climes,  who  hope  to  distin- 
guish yourselv.es  in  the  service  of  Spain,  and  to  earn  honours 
and  rewards,  remember  the  fate  of  Columbus,  and  of  another 
as  brave  and  as  ardent — Flinterl 


CHAPTER  XXXV 

Departure  from  Santander — The  Night  Alarm — The  Black  Pass. 

I had  ordered  two  hundred  Testaments  to  be  sent  to 
Santander  from  Madrid:  I found,  however,  to  my  great 

sorrow,  that  they  had  not  arrived,  and  I supposed  that 
they  had  either  been  seized  on  the  way  by  the  Carlists, 
or  that  my  letter  had  miscarried.  I then  thought  of 
applying  to  England  for  a supply,  but  I abandoned  the 
idea  for  two  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  I should  have  to 
remain  idly  loitering,  at  least  a month,  before  I could 
receive  them,  at  a place  where  every  article  was  excessively 
dear;  and,  secondly,  I was  very  unwell,  and  unable  to 
procure  medical  advice  at  Santander.  Ever  since  I left 
Coruna,  I had  been  afflicted  with  a terrible  dysentery, 
and  latterly  with  an  ophthalmia,  the  result  of  the  other 
malady.  I therefore  determined  on  returning  to  Madrid. 
To  effect  this,  however,  seemed  no  very  easy  task.  Parties 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


325 


of  the  army  of  Don  Carlos,  which,  in  a partial  degree, 
had  been  routed  in  Castile,  were  hovering  about  the  country 
through  which  I should  have  to  pass,  more  especially  in 
that  part  called  “ The  Mountains/'  so  that  all  communica- 
tion had  ceased  between  Santander  and  the  southern 
districts.  Nevertheless,  I determined  to  trust  as  usual  in 
the  Almighty  and  to  risk  the  danger.  I purchased,  there- 
fore, a small  horse,  and  sallied  forth  with  Antonio. 

Before  departing,  however,  I entered  into  conference 
with  the  booksellers  as  to  what  they  should  do  in  the 
event  of  my  finding  an  opportunity  of  sending  them  a 
stock  of  Testaments  from  Madrid;  and,  having  arranged 
matters  to  my  satisfaction,  I committed  myself  to  Provi- 
dence. I will  not  dwell  long  on  this  journey  of  three 
hundred  miles.  We  were  in  the  midst  of  the  fire,  yet, 
strange  to  say,  escaped  without  a hair  of  our  heads  being 
singed.  Robberies,  murders,  and  all  kinds  of  atrocities 
were  perpetrated  before,  behind,  and  on  both  sides  of  us, 
but  not  so  much  as  a dog  barked  at  us,  though  in  one 
instance  a plan  had  been  laid  to  intercept  us.  About 
four  leagues  from  Santander,  whilst  we  were  baiting  our 
horses  at  a village  hostelry,  I saw  a fellow  run  off  after 
having  held  a whispering  conversation  with  a boy  who  was 
dealing  out  barley  to  us.  I instantly  inquired  of  the 
latter  what  the  man  had  said  to  him,  but  only  obtained  an 
evasive  answer.  It  appeared  afterwards  that  the  conversa- 
tion was  about  ourselves.  Two  or  three  leagues  farther 
there  was  an  inn  and  village  where  we  had  proposed  staying, 
and  indeed  had  expressed  our  intention  of  doing  so;  but 
on  arriving  there,  finding  that  the  sun  was  still  far  from  its 
bourne,  I determined  to  proceed  farther,  expecting  to  meet 
with  a resting-place  at  the  distance  of  a league;  though 
I was  mistaken,  as  we  found  none  until  we  reached  Monta- 
neda,  nine  leagues  and  a half  from  Santander,  where  was 
stationed  a small  detachment  of  soldiers.  At  the  dead  of 
night  we  were  aroused  from  our  sleep  by  a cry  that  the 
factious  were  not  far  off.  A messenger  had  arrived  from 
the  alcalde  of  the  village  where  we  had  previously  intended 
staying,  who  stated  that  a party  of  Garlists  had  just  sur- 
prised that  place,  and  were  searching  for  an  English  spy, 
whom  they  supposed  to  be  at  the  inn.  The  officer  command 
ing  the  soldiers  upon  hearing  this,  not  deeming  his  own 
situation  a safe  one,  instantly  drew  off  his  men,  falling 
back  on  a stronger  party  stationed  in  a fortified  village 
near  at  hand.  As  for  ourselves,  we  saddled  our  horses 
and  continued  our  way  in  the  dark.  Had  the  Garlists 
succeeded  in  apprehending  me,  I should  instantly  have  been 
shot,  and  my  body  cast  on  the  rocks  to  feed  the  vultures 


326 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  wolves.  But  “ it  was  not  so  written/’  said  Antonio, 
who,  like  many  of  his  countrymen,  was  a fatalist.  The 
next  night  we  had  another  singular  escape:  we  had  arrived 
near  the  entrance  of  a horrible  pass  called  “ El  puerto 
de  la  puente  de  las  tablas,”  or  the  pass  of  the  bridge  of 
planks,  which  wound  through  a black  and  frightful 
mountain,  on  the  farther  side  of  which  was  the  town  of 
Onas,  where  we  meant  to  tarry  for  the  night.  The  sun 
had  set  about  a quarter  of  an  hour.  Suddenly  a man, 
with  his  face  covered  with  blood,  rushed  out  of  the  pass. 
“Turn  back,  sir,”  he  said,  “in  the  name  of  God;  there 
are  murderers  in  that  pass;  they  have  just  robbed  me  of 
my  mule  and  all  I possess,  and  I have  hardly  escaped  with 
life  from  their  hands.”  I scarcely  know  why,  but  I made 
him  no  answer  and  proceeded;  indeed  I was  so  weary 
and  unwell  that  I cared  not  what  became  of  me.  We 
entered;  the  rocks  rose  perpendicularly,  right  and  left, 
entirely  intercepting  the  scanty  twilight,  so  that  the 
darkness  of  the  grave,  or  rather  the  blackness  of  the  valley 
of  the  shadow  of  death  reigned  around  us,  and  we  knew 
not  where  we  went,  but  trusted  to  the  instinct  of  the 
horses,  who  moved  on  with  their  heads  close  to  the  ground. 
The  only  sound  which  we  heard  was  the  plash  of  a stream, 
which  tumbled  down  the  pass.  I expected  every  moment 
to  feel  a knife  at  my  throat,  but  “ it  was  not  so  written .” 
We  threaded  the  pass  without  meeting  a human  being, 
and  within  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  the  time  we 
entered  it,  we  found  ourselves  within  the  posada  of  the 
town  of  Onas,  which  was  filled  with  troops  and  armed 
peasants  expecting  an  attack  from  the  grand  Garlist  army, 
which  was  near  at  hand. 

Well,  we  reached  Burgos  in  safety  ; we  reached  Vallado- 
lid in  safety;  we  passed  the  Guadarama  in  safety;  and  were 
at  length  safely  housed  in  Madrid.  People  said  we  had 
been  very  lucky;  Antonio  said,  “It  was  so  written”; 
but  I say,  Glory  be  to  the  Lord  for  his  mercies  vouchsafed 
to  us. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


327 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 

State  of  Affairs  at  Madrid — The  New  Ministry — Pope  of  Rome — The 

Bookseller  of  Toledo — Sword  Blades — Houses  of  Toledo — The  Forlorn 

Gypsy — Proceedings  at  Madrid — Another  Servant. 

During  my  journey  in  the  northern  provinces  of  Spain, 
which  occupied  a considerable  portion  of  the  year  1837, 
I had  accomplished  but  a slight  portion  of  what  I pro- 
posed to  myself  to  effect  in  the  outset.  Insignificant 
are  the  results  of  man's  labours  compared  with  the  swelling 
ideas  of  his  presumption;  something,  however,  had  been 
effected  by  the  journey,  which  I had  just  concluded.  The 
New  Testament  of  Christ  was  now  enjoying  a quiet  sale 
in  the  principal  towns  of  the  north,  and  I had  secured  the 
friendly  interest  and  co-operation  of  the  booksellers  of  those 
parts,  particularly  of  him  the  most  considerable  of  them 
all,  old  Rey  of  Compostella.  I had,  moreover,  disposed  of 
a considerable  number  of  Testaments  with  my  own  hands, 
to  private  individuals,  entirely  of  the  lower  class,  namely, 
muleteers,  carmen,  contrabandistas,  etc.,  so  that  upon 
the  whole  I had  abundant  cause  for  gratitude  and  thanks- 
giving. 

I did  not  find  our  affairs  in  a very  prosperous  state 
at  Madrid,  few  copies  having  been  sold  in  the  booksellers' 
shops,  yet  what  could  be  rationally  expected  during  these 
latter  times?  Don  Carlos,  with  a large  army,  had  been  at 
the  gates;  plunder  and  massacre  had  been  expected; 
so  that  people  were  too  much  occupied  in  forming  plans 
to  secure  their  lives  and  property,  to  give  much  attention 
to  reading  of  any  description. 

The  enemy,  however,  had  now  retired  to  his  strong- 
holds in  Alava  and  Guipuscoa.  I hoped  that  brighter 
days  were  dawning,  and  that  the  work,  under  my  own 
superintendence,  would,  with  God’s  blessing,  prosper  in 
the  capital  of  Spain.  How  far  the  result  corresponded 
with  my  expectations  will  be  seen  in  the  sequel. 

During  my  absence  in  the  north,  a total  change  of 
ministers  had  occurred.  The  liberal  party  had  been 
ousted  from  the  cabinet,  and  in  their  place  had  entered 
individuals  attached  to  the  moderado  or  court  party: 
unfortunately,  however,  for  my  prospects,  they  consisted 
of  persons  with  whom  I had  no  acquaintance  whatever, 
and  with  whom  my  former  friends,  Galiano  and  Isturitz, 
had  little  or  no  influence.  These  gentlemen  were  now 


328 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


regularly  laid  on  the  shelf,  and  their  political  career 
appeared  to  be  terminated  for  ever. 

From  the  present  ministry  I could  expect  but  little; 
they  consisted  of  men,  the  greater  part  of  whom  had 
been  either  courtiers  or  employes  of  the  deceased  King 
Ferdinand,  who  were  friends  to  absolutism,  and  by  no 
means  inclined  to  do  or  to  favour  anything  calculated 
to  give  offence  to  the  court  of  Rome,  which  they  were 
anxious  to  conciliate,  hoping  that  eventually  it  might 
be  induced  to  recognize  the  young  queen,  not  as  the 
constitutional  but  as  the  absolute  Queen  Isabella  the 
Second. 

Such  was  the  party  which  continued  in  power  through- 
out the  remainder  of  my  sojourn  in  Spain,  and  which 
persecuted  me  less  from  rancour  and  malice  than  from 
policy.  It  was  not  until  the  conclusion  of  the  war  of  the 
succession  that  it  lost  the  ascendancy,  when  it  sank  to 
the  ground  with  its  patroness  the  queen-mother,  before 
the  dictatorship  of  Espartero. 

The  first  step  which  I took  after  my  return  to  Madrid, 
towards  circulating  the  Scriptures,  was  a very  bold  one. 
It  was  neither  more  nor  less  than  the  establishment  of  a 
shop  for  the  sale  of  Testaments.  This  shop  was  situated 
in  the  Calle  del  Principe,  a respectable  and  well-frequented 
street  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Square  of  Cervantes. 
I furnished  it  handsomely  with  glass  cases  and  chandeliers, 
and  procured  an  acute  Gallegan  of  the  name  of  Pepe 
Calzado,  to  superintend  the  business,  who  gave  me  weekly 
a faithful  account  of  the  copies  sold. 

“ How  strangely  times  alter,”  said  I,  the  second  day 
subsequent  to  the  opening  of  my  establishment,  as  I 
stood  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  leaning  against 
the  wall  with  folded  arms,  surveying  my  shop,  on  the 
windows  of  which  were  painted  in  large  yellow  characters, 
Despacho  de  la  Sociedad  Biblica  y Estrangera;  “ how 
strangely  times  alter;  here  have  I been  during  the  last 
eight  months  running  about  old  Popish  Spain,  distributing 
Testaments,  as  agent  of  what  the  Papists  call  an  heretical 
society,  and  have  neither  been  stoned  nor  burnt;  and 
here  am  I now  in  the  capital,  doing  that  which  one  would 
think  were  enough  to  cause  all  the  dead  inquisitors  and 
officials  buried  within  the  circuit  of  the  walls  to  rise  from 
their  graves  and  cry  abomination;  and  yet  no  one  inter- 
feres with  me.  Pope  of  Rome!  Pope  of  Rome!  look  to 
thyself.  That  shop  may  be  closed;  but  oh!  what  a sign 
of  the  times,  that  it  has  been  permitted  to  exist  for  one 
day.  It  appears  to  me,  my  Father,  that  the  days  of  your 
sway  are  numbered  in  Spain;  that  you  will  not  be  per- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


329 


mitted  much  longer  to  plunder  her,  to  scoff  at  her,  and  to 
scourge  her  with  scorpions,  as  in  bygone  periods.  See  I 
not  the  hand  on  the  wall?  See  I not  in  yonder  letters  a 
‘ Mene,  mene,  Tekel,  Upharsin  * ? Look  to  thyself, 
Batuschca.” 

And  I remained  for  two  hours,  leaning  against  the 
wall,  staring  at  the  shop. 

A short  time  after  the  establishment  of  the  despacho 
at  Madrid,  I once  more  mounted  the  saddle,  and,  attended 
by  Antonio,  rode  over  to  Toledo,  for  the  purpose  of  circu- 
lating the  Scriptures,  sending  beforehand  by  a muleteer 
a cargo  of  one  hundred  Testaments.  I instantly  addressed 
myself  to  the  principal  bookseller  of  the  place,  whom 
from  the  circumstance  of  his  living  in  a town  so  abounding 
with  canons,  priests,  and  ex-friars  as  Toledo,  I expected 
to  find  a Carlist,  or  a servile  at  least.  I was  never  more 
mistaken  in  my  life;  on  entering  the  shop,  which  was  very 
large  and  commodious,  I beheld  a stout  athletic  man, 
dressed  in  a kind  of  cavalry  uniform,  with  a helmet  on  his 
head,  and  an  immense  sabre  in  his  hand:  this  was  the 
bookseller  himself,  who  I soon  found  was  an  officer  in  the 
national  cavalry.  Upon  learning  who  I was,  he  shook  me 
heartily  by  the  hand,  and  said  that  nothing  would  give 
him  greater  pleasure  than  taking  charge  of  the  books, 
which  he  would  endeavour  to  circulate  to  the  utmost  of 
his  ability. 

“ Will  not  your  doing  so  bring  you  into  odium  with 
the  clergy?  ” 

“ Ca!  ” said  he;  “ who  cares?  I am  rich,  and  so  was 
my  father  before  me.  I do  not  depend  on  them,  they 
cannot  hate  me  more  than  they  do  already,  for  I make 
no  secret  of  my  opinions.  I have  just  returned  from  an 
expedition,”  said  he;  “ my  brother  nationals  and  myself 
have,  for  the  last  three  days,  been  occupied  in  hunting 
down  the  factious  and  thieves  of  the  neighbourhood;  we 
have  killed  three  and  brought  in  several  prisoners.  Who 
cares  for  the  cowardly  priests?  I am  a liberal,  Don  Jorge, 
and  a friend  of  your  countryman,  Flinter.  Many  is  the 
Carlist  guerilla-curate  and  robber-friar  whom  I have 
assisted  him  to  catch.  I am  rejoiced  to  hear  that  he  has 
just  been  appointed  captain-general  of  Toledo;  there 
will  be  fine  doings  here  when  he  arrives,  Don  Jorge.  We 
will  make  the  clergy  shake  between  us,  I assure  you.” 

Toledo  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Spain.  Its  population 
at  present  is  barely  fifteen  thousand  souls,  though,  in  the 
time  of  the  Romans,  and  also  during  the  Middle  Ages,  it 
is  said  to  have  amounted  to  between  two  and  three  hundred 
thousand.  It  is  situated  about  twelve  leagues  (forty  miles) 


330 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


westward  of  Madrid,  and  is  built  upon  a steep  rocky  hill, 
round  which  flows  the  Tagus,  on  all  sides  but  the  north. 
It  still  possesses  a great  many  remarkable  edifices,  not- 
withstanding that  it  has  long  since  fallen  into  decay.  Its 
cathedral  is  the  most  magnificent  of  Spain,  and  is  the  see 
of  the  primate.  In  the  tower  of  this  cathedral  is  the 
famous  bell  of  Toledo,  the  largest  in  the  world  with  the 
exception  of  the  monster  bell  of  Moscow,  which  I have 
also  seen.  It  weighs  1,543  arrobes,  or  37,032  pounds. 
It  has,  however,  a disagreeable  sound,  owing  to  a cleft  in 
its  side.  Toledo  could  once  boast  the  finest  pictures  in 
Spain,  but  many  were  stolen  or  destroyed  by  the  French 
during  the  Peninsular  war,  and  still  more  have  lately  been 
removed  by  order  of  the  government.  Perhaps  the  most 
remarkable  one  still  remains;  I allude  to  that  which 
represents  the  burial  of  the  Count  of  Orgaz,  the  masterpiece 
of  Domenico,  the  Greek,  a most  extraordinary  genius, 
some  of  whose  productions  possess  merit  of  a very  high 
order.  The  picture  in  question  is  in  the  little  parish 
church  of  San  Tome,  at  the  bottom  of  the  aisle,  on  the 
left  side  of  the  altar.  Could  it  be  purchased,  I should  say 
it  would  be  cheap  at  five  thousand  pounds. 

Amongst  the  many  remarkable  things  which  meet  the 
eye  of  the  curious  observer  at  Toledo,  is  the  manufactory 
of  arms,  where  are  wrought  the  swords,  spears,  and  other 
weapons  intended  for  the  army,  with  the  exception  of 
fire-arms,  which  mostly  come  from  abroad. 

In  old  times,  as  is  well  known,  the  sword-blades  of 
Toledo  were  held  in  great  estimation,  and  were  trans- 
mitted as  merchandize  throughout  Christendom.  The 
present  manufactory,  or  fabrica,  as  it  is  called,  is  a hand- 
some modern  edifice,  situated  without  the  wall  of  the  city, 
on  a plain  contiguous  to  the  river,  with  which  it  communi- 
cates by  a small  canal.  It  is  said  that  the  water  and  the 
sand  of  the  Tagus  are  essential  for  the  proper  tempering 
of  the  swords.  I asked  some  of  the  principal  workmen 
whether,  at  the  present  day,  they  could  manufacture 
weapons  of  equal  value  to  those  of  former  days,  and  whether 
the  secret  had  been  lost. 

“Ca!”  said  they,  “ the  swords  of  Toledo  were  never 
so  good  as  those  which  we  are  daily  making.  It  is  ridicu- 
lous enough  to  see  strangers  coming  here  to  purchase  old 
swords,  the  greater  part  of  which  are  mere  rubbish,  and 
never  made  at  Toledo,  yet  for  such  they  will  give  a large 
price,  whilst  they  would  grudge  two  dollars  for  this  jewel, 
which  was  made  but  yesterday”;  thereupon  putting  into 
my  hand  a middle-sized  rapier.  “ Your  worship,”  said 
they,  “ seems  to  have  a strong  arm,  prove  its  temper 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  331 

against  the  stone  wall ; — thrust  boldly  and  fear 
not.” 

I have  a strong  arm  and  dashed  the  point  with  my 
utmost  force  against  the  solid  granite:  my  arm  was  numbed 
to  the  shoulder  from  the  violence  of  the  concussion,  and 
continued  so  for  nearly  a week,  but  the  sword  appeared 
not  to  be  at  all  blunted,  or  to  have  suffered  in  any  respect. 

“ A better  sword  than  that,”  said  an  ancient  workman, 
a native  of  Old  Castile,  “ never  transfixed  Moor  out  yonder 
on  the  sagra.” 

During  my  stay  at  Toledo,  I lodged  at  the  Posada  de 
los  Caballeros,  which  signifies  the  inn  of  the  gentlemen, 
which  name,  in  some  respects,  is  certainly  well  deserved, 
for  there  are  many  palaces  far  less  magnificent  than  this 
inn  of  Toledo.  By  magnificence  it  must  not  be  supposed, 
however,  that  I allude  to  costliness  of  furniture,  or  any 
kind  of  luxury  which  pervaded  the  culinary  department. 
The  rooms  were  as  empty  as  those  of  Spanish  inns  generally 
are,  and  the  fare,  though  good  in  its  kind,  was  plain  and 
homely;  but  I have  seldom  seen  a more  imposing  edifice. 
It  was  of  immense  size,  consisting  of  several  stories,  and 
was  built  something  in  the  Moorish  taste,  with  a quad- 
rangular court  in  the  centre,  beneath  which  was  an  immense 
algibe  or  tank,  serving  as  a reservoir  for  rain-water.  All 
the  houses  in  Toledo  are  supplied  with  tanks  of  this  descrip- 
tion, into  which  the  waters  in  the  rainy  season  flow  from 
the  roofs  through  pipes.  No  other  water  is  used  for 
drinking;  that  of  the  Tagus,  not  being  considered  salubrious, 
is  only  used  for  purposes  of  cleanliness,  being  conveyed 
up  the  steep  narrow  streets  on  donkeys  in  large  stone  jars. 
The  city,  standing  on  a rocky  mountain,  has  no  wells. 
As  for  the  rain-water,  it  deposits  a sediment  in  the  tank, 
and  becomes  very  sweet  and  potable:  these  tanks  are 

cleaned  out  twice  every  year.  During  the  summer,  at 
which  time  the  heat  in  this  part  of  Spain  is  intense,  the 
families  spend  the  greater  part  of  the  day  in  the  courts, 
which  are  overhung  with  a linen  awning,  the  heat  of  the 
atmosphere  being  tempered  by  the  coolness  arising  from 
the  tank  below,  which  answers  the  same  purpose  as  the 
fountain  in  the  southern  provinces  of  Spain. 

I spent  about  a week  at  Toledo,  during  which  time 
several  copies  of  the  Testament  were  disposed  of  in  the 
shop  of  my  friend  the  bookseller.  Several  priests  took 
it  up  from  the  mostrador  on  which  it  lay,  examined  it, 
but  made  no  remarks;  none  of  them  purchased  it.  My 
friend  showed  me  through  his  house,  almost  every  apart- 
ment of  which  was  lined  from  roof  to  floor  with  books, 
many  of  which  were  highly  valuable.  He  told  me  that 


332 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


he  possessed  the  best  collection  in  Spain  of  the  ancient 
literature  of  the  country.  He  was,  however,  less  proud 
of  his  library  than  his  stud;  finding  that  I had  some  ac- 
quaintance with  horses,  his  liking  for  me  and  also  his 
respect  considerably  increased.  “ All  I have,”  said  he, 
“is  at  your  service;  I see  you  are  a man  after  my  own 
heart.  When  you  are  disposed  to  ride  out  upon  the  sagra, 
you  have  only  to  apply  to  my  groom,  who  will  forthwith 
saddle  you  my  famed  Gordovese  entero;  I purchased  him 
from  the  stables  at  Aranjuez,  when  the  royal  stud  was 
broken  up.  There  is  but  one  other  man  to  whom  I would 
lend  him,  and  that  man  is  Flinter.” 

At  Toledo  I met  with  a forlorn  Gypsy  woman  and  her 
son,  a lad  of  about  fourteen  years  of  age;  she  was  not 
a native  of  the  place,  but  had  come  from  La  Mancha, 
her  husband  having  been  cast  into  the  prison  of  Toledo 
on  a charge  of  mule-stealing:  the  crime  had  been  proved 
against  him,  and  in  a few  days  he  was  to  depart  for  Malaga, 
with  the  chain  of  galley  slaves.  He  was  quite  destitute  of 
money,  and  his  wife  was  now  in  Toledo,  earning  a few 
cuartos  by  telling  fortunes  about  the  streets,  to  support 
him  in  prison.  She  told  me  that  it  was  her  intention 
to  follow  him  to  Malaga,  where  she  hoped  to  be  able  to 
effect  his  escape.  What  an  instance  of  conjugal  affection; 
and  yet  the  affection  here  was  all  on  one  side,  as  is  too 
frequently  the  case.  Her  husband  was  a worthless 
scoundrel,  who  had  previously  abandoned  her  and  betaken 
himself  to  Madrid,  where  he  had  long  lived  in  concubinage 
with  the  notorious  sh e-thug  Aurora,  at  whose  instigation 
he  had  committed  the  robbery  for  which  he  was  now 
held  in  durance.  “ Should  your  husband  escape  from 
Malaga,  in  what  direction  will  he  fly?  ” I demanded. 

“ To  the  chim  of  the  Gorahai,  my  son;  to  the  land 
of  the  Moors,  to  be  a soldier  of  the  Moorish  king.” 

“ And  what  will  become  of  yourself?  ” I inquired; 
“ think  you  that  he  will  take  you  with  him?  ” 

“ He  will  leave  me  on  the  shore,  my  son,  and  as  soon 
as  he  has  crossed  the  black  pawnee,  he  will  forget  me 
and  never  think  of  me  more.” 

“ And  knowing  his  ingratitude,  why  should  you  give 
yourself  so  much  trouble  about  him?  ” 

“ Am  I not  his  romi,  my  son,  and  am  I not  bound  by 
the  law  of  the  Cales  to  assist  him  to  the  last?  Should 
he  return  from  the  land  of  the  Corahai  at  the  end  of  a 
hundred  years,  and  should  find  me  alive,  and  should  say, 
I am  hungry,  little  wife,  go  forth  and  steal  or  tell  bahi,  I 
must  do  it,  for  he  is  the  rom  and  I the  romi.” 

On  my  return  to  Madrid,  I found  the  despacho  still 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


333 


open:  various  Testaments  had  been  sold,  though  the 

number  was  by  no  means  considerable:  the  work  had  to 
labour  under  great  disadvantage,  from  the  ignorance  of 
the  people  at  large  with  respect  to  its  tenor  and  contents. 
It  was  no  wonder,  then,  that  little  interest  was  felt  respect- 
ing it.  To  call,  however,  public  attention  to  the  despaclio, 
I printed  three  thousand  advertisements  on  paper,  yellow, 
blue,  and  crimson,  with  which  I almost  covered  the  sides 
of  the  streets,  and  besides  this,  inserted  an  account  of  it 
in  all  the  journals  and  periodicals;  the  consequence  was, 
that  in  a short  time  almost  every  person  in  Madrid  was 
aware  of  its  existence.  Such  exertions  in  London  or  Paris 
would  probably  have  ensured  the  sale  of  the  entire  edition 
of  the  New  Testament  within  a few  days.  In  Madrid, 
however,  the  result  was  not  quite  so  flattering;  for  after 
the  establishment  had  been  open  an  entire  month,  the 
copies  disposed  of  barely  amounted  to  one  hundred. 

These  proceedings  of  mine  did  not  fail  to  cause  a great 
sensation:  the  priests  and  their  partisans  were  teeming 
with  malice  and  fury,  which,  for  some  time,  however, 
they  thought  proper  to  exhibit  only  in  words;  it  being  their 
opinion  that  I was  favoured  by  the  ambassador  and  by 
the  British  government;  but  there  was  no  attempt,  how- 
ever atrocious,  that  might  not  be  expected  from  their 
malignity;  and  were  it  right  and  seemly  for  me,  the  most 
insignificant  of  worms,  to  make  such  a comparison,  I 
might  say,  like  Paul  at  Ephesus,  I was  fighting  with  wild 
beasts. 

On  the  last  day  of  the  year  1837,  my  servant  Antonio 
thus  addressed  me:  “ Mon  maitre,  it  is  necessary  that  I 
leave  you  for  a time.  Ever  since  we  have  returned  from 
our  journeys,  I have  become  unsettled  and  dissatisfied 
with  the  house,  the  furniture,  and  with  Donna  Marequita. 
I have  therefore  engaged  myself  as  cook  in  the  house  of 

the  Count  of  , where  I am  to  receive  four  dollars  per 

month  less  than  what  your  worship  gives  me.  I am  fond 
of  change,  though  it  be  for  the  worse.  Adieu,  mon  maitre, 
may  you  be  as  well  served  as  you  deserve;  should  you 
chance,  however,  to  have  any  pressing  need  de  mes  soins , 
send  for  me  without  hesitation,  and  I will  at  once  give 
my  new  master  warning,  if  I am  still  with  him,  and  come 
to  you.” 

Thus  was  I deprived  for  a time  of  the  services  of  Antonio. 
I continued  for  a few  days  without  a domestic,  at  the  end 
of  which  time  I hired  a certain  Cantabrian  or  Basque,  a 
native  of  the  village  of  Hernani,  in  Guipuscoa,  who  was 
strongly  recommended  to  me. 


334 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XXXVII 

Enscarra — Basque  not  Irish — Sanskrit  and  Tartar  Dialects — A Vowel 

Language — Popular  Poetry — The  Basques — Their  Persons — Basque 

Women.  ' 

I now  entered  upon  the  year  1838,  perhaps  the  most 
eventful  of  all  those  which  I passed  in  Spain.  The  despacho 
still  continued  open,  with  a somewhat  increasing  sale. 
Having  at  this  time  little  of  particular  moment  with 
which  to  occupy  myself,  I committed  to  the  press  two  works, 
which  for  some  time  past  had  been  in  the  course  of  prepara- 
tion. These  were  the  Gospel  of  St.  Luke  in  the  Spanish 
Gypsy  and  the  Euscarra  languages. 

With  respect  to  the  Gypsy  Gospel  I have  little  to  say, 
having  already  spoken  of  it  in  a former  work  ( The  Zincali) : 
it  was  translated  by  myself,  together  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  New  Testament,  during  my  long’  intercourse 
with  the  Spanish  Gypsies.  Concerning  the  Luke  in  Euscarra, 
however,  it  will  be  as  well  to  be  more  particular,  and  to 
avail  myself  of  the  present  opportunity  to  say  a few  words 
concerning  the  language  in  which  it  was  written,  and  the 
people  for  whom  it  was  intended. 

The  Euscarra,  then,  is  the  proper  term  for  a certain 
speech  or  language,  supposed  to  have  been  at  one  time 
prevalent  throughout  Spain,  but  which  is  at  present  con- 
fined to  certain  districts,  both  on  the  French  and  Spanish 
side  of  the  Pyrenees,  which  are  laved  by  the  waters  of  the 
Cantabrian  Gulf  or  Bay  of  Biscay.  This  language  is 
commonly  known  as  the  Basque  or  Biscayan,  which  words 
are  mere  modifications  of  the  word  Euscarra,  the  consonant 
B having  been  prefixed  for  the  sake  of  euphony.  Much 
that  is  vague,  erroneous,  and  hypothetical,  has  been  said 
and  written  concerning  this  tongue.  The  Basques  assert 
that  it  was  not  only  the  original  language  of  Spain,  but 
also  of  the  world,  and  that  from  it  all  other  languages  are 
derived;  but  the  Basques  are  a very  ignorant  people,  and 
know  nothing  of  the  philosophy  of  language.  Very  little 
importance,  therefore,  need  be  attached  to  any  opinion  of 
theirs  on  such  a subject.  A few  amongst  them,  however, 
who  affect  some  degree  of  learning,  contend,  that  it  is 
neither  more  nor  less  than  a dialect  of  the  Phoenician,  and 
that  the  Basques  are  the  descendants  of  a Phoenician  colony, 
established  at  the  foot  of  the  Pyrenees  at  a very  remote 
period.  Of  this  theory,  or  rather  conjecture,  as  it  is 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


335 


unsubstantiated  by  the  slightest  proof,  it  is  needless  to 
take  further  notice  than  to  observe  that,  provided  the 
Phoenician  language,  as  many  of  the  truly  learned  have 
supposed  and  almost  proved,  was  a dialect  of  the  Hebrew, 
or  closely  allied  to  it,  it  were  as  unreasonable  to  suppose 
that  the  Basque  is  derived  from  it,  as  that  the  Kamschatdale 
and  Cherokee  are  dialects  of  the  Greek  or  Latin. 

There  is,  however,  another  opinion  with  respect  to 
the  Basque  which  deserves  more  especial  notice,  from 
the  circumstance  of  its  being  extensively  entertained 
amongst  the  literati  of  various  countries  of  Europe,  more 
especially  England.  I allude  to  the  Celtic  origin  of  this 
tongue,  and  its  close  connexion  with  the  most  cultivated 
of  all  the  Celtic  dialects,  the  Irish.  People  who  pretend 
to  be  well  conversant  with  the  subject,  have  even  gone 
so  far  as  to  assert,  that  so  little  difference  exists  between 
the  Basque  and  Irish  tongues,  that  individuals  of  the  two 
nations,  when  they  meet  together,  find  no  difficulty  in 
understanding  each  other,  with  no  other  means  of  communi- 
cation than  their  respective  languages;  in  a word,  that 
there  is  scarcely  a greater  difference  between  the  two 
than  between  the  French  and  the  Spanish  Basque.  Such 
similarity,  however,  though  so  strongly  insisted  upon,  by 
no  means  exists  in  fact,  and  perhaps  in  the  whole  of  Europe 
it  would  be  difficult  to  discover  two  languages  which 
exhibit  fewer  points  of  mutual  resemblance  than  the  Basque 
and  Irish. 

The  Irish,  like  most  other  European  languages,  is  a 
dialect  of  the  Sanskrit,  a remote  one,  as  may  well  be  sup- 
posed. The  corner  of  the  western  world  in  which  it  is 
still  preserved  being,  of  all  countries  in  Europe,  the  most 
distant  from  the  proper  home  of  the  parent  tongue.  It  is 
still,  however,  a dialect  of  that  venerable  and  most  original 
speech,  not  so  closely  resembling  it,  it  is  true,  as  the 
English,  Danish,  and  those  which  belong  to  what  is  called 
the  Gothic  family,  and  far  less  than  those  of  the  Sclavonian; 
for  the  nearer  we  approach  to  the  East,  in  equal  degree 
the  assimilation  of  languages  to  this  parent  stock  becomes 
more  clear  and  distinct;  but  still  a dialect,  agreeing  with 
the  Sanskrit  in  structure,  in  the  arrangement  of  words, 
and  in  many  instances  in  the  words  themselves,  which, 
however  modified,  may  still  be  recognized  as  Sanskrit. 
But  what  is  the  Basque,  and  to  what  family  does  it  properly 
pertain? 

To  two  great  Asiatic  languages,  all  the  dialects  spoken 
at  present  in  Europe  may  be  traced.  These  two,  if  not 
now  spoken,  still  exist  in  books,  and  are,  moreover,  the 
languages  of  two  of  the  principal  religions  of  the  East. 


336 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


I allude  to  the  Tibetian  and  Sanskrit — the  sacred  lan- 
guages of  the  followers  of  Buddh  and  Bramah.  These 
tongues,  though  they  possess  many  words  in  common, 
which  is  easily  to  be  accounted  for  by  their  close  proximity, 
are  properly  distinct,  being  widely  different  in  structure. 
In  what  this  difference  consists,  I have  neither  time  nor 
inclination  to  state;  suffice  it  to  say  that  the  Celtic,  Gothic, 
and  Sclavonian  dialects  in  Europe  belong  to  the  Sanskrit 
family,  even  as  in  the  East  the  Persian,  and  to  a less  degree 
the  Arabic,  Hebrew,  etc.;  whilst  to  the  Tibetian  or  Tartar 
family  in  Asia  pertain  the  Mandchou  and  Mongolian,  the 
Calmuc  and  the  Turkish  of  the  Caspian  Sea;  and  in  Europe, 
the  Hungarian  and  the  Basque  partially . 

Indeed  this  latter  language  is  a strange  anomaly,  so 
that  upon  the  whole  it  is  less  difficult  to  say  what  it  is 
not,  than  what  it  is.  It  abounds  with  Sanskrit  words 
to  such  a degree  that  its  surface  seems  strewn  with  them. 
Yet  would  it  be  wrong  to  term  it  a Sanskrit  dialect,  for 
in  the  collocation  of  these  words  the  Tartar  form  is  most 
decidedly  observable.  A considerable  proportion  of  Tartar 
words  is  likewise  to  be  found  in  this  language,  though 
perhaps  not  in  equal  number  to  the  terms  derived  from 
the  Sanskrit.  Of  these  Tartar  etymons  I shall  at  present 
content  myself  with  citing  one,  though,  if  necessary,  it 
were  easy  to  adduce  hundreds.  This  word  is  Jauna , or 
as  it  is  pronounced,  Khauna,  a word  in  constant  use  amongst 
the  Basques,  and  which  is  the  Khan  of  the  Mongols  and 
Mandchous,  and  of  the  same  signification — Lord. 

Having  closely  examined  the  subject  in  all  its  various 
bearings,  and  having  weighed  what  is  to  be  said  on  one 
side  against  what  is  to  be  advanced  on  the  other,  I am 
inclined  to  rank  the  Basque  rather  amongst  the  Tartar 
than  the  Sanskrit  dialects.  Whoever  should  have  an 
opportunity  of  comparing  the  enunciation  of  the  Basques 
and  Tartars  would,  from  that  alone,  even  if  he  understood 
them  not,  come  to  the  conclusion  that  their  respective 
languages  were  formed  on  the  same  principles.  In  both 
occur  periods  seemingly  interminable,  during  which  the 
voice  gradually  ascends  to  a climax,  and  then  gradually 
sinks  down. 

I have  spoken  of  the  surprising  number  of  Sanskrit 
words  contained  in  the  Basque  language,  specimens  of 
some  of  which  will  be  found  below.  It  is  remarkable 
enough,  that  in  the  greater  part  of  the  derivatives  from 
the  Sanskrit,  the  Basque  has  dropped  the  initial  consonant, 
so  that  the  word  commences  with  a vowel.  The  Basque, 
indeed,  may  be  said  to  be  almost  a vowel  language;  the 
number  of  consonants  employed  being  comparatively 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


337 


Ifew:  perhaps  eight  words  out  of  ten  commence  and 

terminate  with  a vowel,  owing  to  which  it  is  a language 
to  the  highest  degree  soft  and  melodious,  far  excelling 
in  this  respect  any  other  language  in  Europe,  not  even 
excepting  the  Italian. 

Here  follow  a few  specimens  of  Basque  words  with 
the  Sanskrit  roots  in  juxtaposition: — 


Basque. 

Sanskrit. 

Ardoa 

Sandhana 

Wine. 

Arratsa 

Batri 

Night . 

Beguia 

Akshi 

Eye . 

Choria 

Chiria 

Bird . 

Chacurra 

Cue  ura 

Dog. 

Erreguina 

Bani 

Queen . 

Icusi 

Iksha 

To  see . 

Iru 

Treya 

Thi'ee. 

Jan  (Khan) 

Kliana 

To  eat . 

Uria 

Puri 

City . 

Urruti 

Dura 

Far. 

Such  is  the  tongue  in  which  I brought  out  Saint  Luke’s 
Gospel  at  Madrid.  The  translation  I procured  originally 
from  a Basque  physician  of  the  name  of  Oteiza.  Previous 
to  being  sent  to  the  press,  the  version  had  lain  nearly 
two  years  in  my  possession,  during  which  time,  and  particu- 
larly during  my  travels,  I lost  no  opportunity  of  submitting 
it  to  the  inspection  of  those  who  were  considered  competent 
scholars  in  the  Euscarra.  It  did  not  entirely  please  me; 
but  it  was  in  vain  to  seek  for  a better  translation. 

In  my  early  youth  I had  obtained  a slight  acquaintance 
with  the  Euscarra,  as  it  exists  in  books.  This  acquaintance 
I considerably  increased  during  my  stay  in  Spain;  and  by 
occasionally  mingling  with  Basques,  was  enabled  to  under- 
stand the  spoken  language  to  a certain  extent,  and  even 
to  speak  it,  but  always  with  considerable  hesitation;  for 
to  speak  Basque,  even  tolerably,  it  is  necessary  to  have 
lived  in  the  country  from  a very  early  period.  So  great 
are  the  difficulties  attending  it,  and  so  strange  are  its 
peculiarities,  that  it  is  very  rare  to  find  a foreigner  possessed 
of  any  considerable  skill  in  the  oral  language,  and  the 
Spaniards  consider  the  obstacles  so  formidable  that  they 
have  a proverb  to  the  effect  that  Satan  once  lived  seven 
years  in  Biscay,  and  then  departed,  finding  himself  unable 
either  to  understand  or  to  make  himself  understood. 

There  are  few  inducements  to  the  study  of  this  language. 
In  the  first  place,  the  acquisition  of  it  is  by  no  means 
necessary  even  to  those  who  reside  in  the  countries  where 
it  is  spoken;  the  Spanish  being  generally  understood 


338 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


throughout  the  Basque  provinces  pertaining  to  Spain,  and 
the  French  in  those  pertaining  to  France. 

In  the  second  place,  neither  dialect  is  in  possession  of 
any  peculiar  literature  capable  of  repaying  the  toil  of  the 
student.  There  are  various  books  extant  both  in  French 
and  Spanish  Basque,  but  these  consist  entirely  of  Popish 
devotion,  and  are  for  the  most  part  translations. 

It  will,  perhaps,  here  be  asked  whether  the  Basques 
do  not  possess  popular  poetry,  like  most  other  nations, 
however  small  and  inconsiderable.  They  have  certainly 
no  lack  of  songs,  ballads,  and  stanzas,  but  of  a character 
by  no  means  entitled  to  the  appellation  of  poetry.  I 
have  noted  down  from  recitation  a considerable  portion 
of  what  they  call  their  poetry,  but  the  only  tolerable 
specimen  of  verse  which  I ever  discovered  amongst  them 
was  the  following  stanza,  which,  after  all,  is  not  entitled 
to  very  high  praise: — 

“ Ichasoa  urac  aundi, 

Estu  ondoric  agueri — 

Pasaco  ninsaqueni  andic 
Maitea  icustea  gatic.” 

i.e.  “ The  waters  of  the  sea  are  vast,  and  their  bottom 
cannot  be  seen:  but  over  them  I will  pass,  that  I may 
behold  my  love.” 

The  Basques  are  a singing  rather  than  a poetical  people. 
Notwithstanding  the  facility  with  which  their  tongue 
lends  itself  to  the  composition  of  verse,  they  have  never 
produced  among  them  a poet  with  the  slightest  pretensions 
to  reputation;  but  their  voices  are  singularly  sweet,  and 
they  are  known  to  excel  in  musical  composition.  It  is 
the  opinion  of  a certain  author,  the  Abbe  D'llharce,  who 
has  written  about  them,  that  they  derived  the  name 
Cantabri,  by  which  they  were  known  to  the  Romans,  from 
Khantor-ber , signifying  sweet  singers.  They  possess  much 
music  of  their  own,  some  of  which  is  said  to  be  exceedingly 
ancient.  Of  this  music  specimens  were  published  at 
Donostian  (San  Sebastian)  in  the  year  1826,  edited  by  a 
certain  Juan  Ignacio  Iztueta.  These  consist  of  wild  and 
thrilling  marches,  to  the  sound  of  which  it  is  believed 
that  the  ancient  Basques  were  in  the  habit  of  descending 
from  their  mountains  to  combat  with  the  Romans,  and 
subsequent^  with  the  Moors.  Whilst  listening  to  them 
it  is  easy  to  suppose  oneself  in  the  close  vicinity  of  some 
desperate  encounter.  We  seem  to  hear  the  charge  of 
cavalry  on  the  sounding  plain,  the  clash  of  swords,  and  the 
rushing  of  men  down  the  gorges  of  hills.  This  music  is 
accompanied  with  words,  but  such  words!  Nothing  can 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


339 


\)e  imagined  more  stupid,  commonplace,  and  uninteresting. 
So  far  from  being  martial,  they  relate  to  every-day  incidents 
and  appear  to  have  no  connexion  whatever  with  the  music. 
They  are  evidently  of  modern  date. 

In  person  the  Basques  are  of  the  middle  size,  and  are 
active  and  athletic.  They  are  in  general  of  fair  com- 
plexions and  handsome  features,  and  in  appearance  bear 
no  slight  resemblance  to  certain  Tartar  tribes  of  the 
Caucasus.  Their  bravery  is  unquestionable,  and  they  are 
considered  as  the  best  soldiery  belonging  to  the  Spanish 
crown:  a fact  highly  corroborative  of  the  supposition 

that  they  are  of  Tartar  origin,  the  Tartars  being  of  all 
races  the  most  warlike,  and  amongst  whom  the  most 
remarkable  conquerors  have  been  produced.  They  are 
faithful  and  honest,  and  capable  of  much  disinterested 
attachment;  kind  and  hospitable  to  strangers;  all  of 
which  points  are  far  from  being  at  variance  with  the  Tartar 
character.  But  they  are  somewhat  dull,  and  their  capaci- 
ties are  by  no  means  of  a high  order,  and  in  these  respects 
they  again  resemble  the  Tartars. 

No  people  on  earth  are  prouder  than  the  Basques,  but 
theirs  is  a kind  of  republican  pride.  They  have  no  nobility 
amongst  them,  and  no  one  will  acknowledge  a superior. 
The  poorest  carman  is  as  proud  as  the  governor  of  Tolosa. 
“ He  is  more  powerful  than  I,”  he  will  say,  “ but  I am 
of  as  good  blood;  perhaps  hereafter  I may  become  a 
governor  myself.”  They  abhor  servitude,  at  least  out  of 
their  own  country;  and  though  circumstances  frequently 
oblige  them  to  seek  masters,  it  is  very  rare  to  find  them 
filling  the  places  of  common  domestics;  they  are  stewards, 
secretaries,  accountants,  etc.  True  it  is,  that  it  was  my 
own  fortune  to  obtain  a Basque  domestic;  but  then  he 
always  treated  me  more  as  an  equal  than  a master,  would 
sit  down  in  my  presence,  give  me  his  advice  unasked, 
and  enter  into  conversation  with  me  at  all  times  and 
occasions.  Did  I check  himl  Certainly  not!  For  in  that 
case  he  would  have  left  me,  and  a more  faithful  creature 
I never  knew.  His  fate  was  a mournful  one,  as  will  appear 
in  the  sequel. 

I have  said  that  the  Basques  abhor  servitude,  and 
are  rarely  to  be  found  serving  as  domestics  amongst  the 
Spaniards.  I allude,  however,  merely  to  the  males.  The 
females,  on  the  contrary,  have  no  objection  whatever  to 
enter  houses  as  servants.  Women,  indeed,  amongst  the 
Basques  are  not  looked  upon  with  all  the  esteem  which 
they  deserve,  and  are  considered  as  fitted  for  little  else 
than  to  perform  menial  offices,  even  as  in  the  East,  where 
they  are  viewed  in  the  light  of  servants  and  slaves.  The 


340 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

Basque  females  differ  widely  in  character  from  the  men; 
they  are  quick  and  vivacious,  and  have  in  general  much 
more  talent.  They  are  famous  for  their  skill  as  cooks, 
and  in  most  respectable  houses  of  Madrid  a Biscayan  female 
may  be  found  in  the  kitchen,  queen  supreme  of  the  culinary 
department. 


CHAPTER  XXXV III 

The  Prohibition — Gospel  Persecuted — Charge  of  Sorcery — Ofalia. 

About  the  middle  of  January  a swoop  was  made  upon 
me  by  my  enemies,  in  the  shape  of  a peremptory  pro- 
hibition from  the  political  governor  of  Madrid  to  sell  any 
more  New  Testaments.  This  measure  by  no  means  took 
me  by  surprise,  as  I had  for  some  time  previously  been 
expecting  something  of  the  kind,  on  account  of  the  political 
sentiments  of  the  ministers  then  in  power.  I forthwith 
paid  a visit  to  Sir  George  Yilliers,  informing  him  of  what 
had  occurred.  He  promised  to  do  all  he  could  to  cause 
the  prohibition  to  be  withdrawn.  Unfortunately  at  this 
time  he  had  not  much  influence,  having  opposed  with  all 
his  might  the  entrance  of  the  moderado  ministry  to  power, 
and  the  nomination  of  Ofalia  to  the  presidency  of  the 
cabinet.  I,  however,  never  lost  confidence  in  the  Almighty, 
in  whose  cause  I was  engaged. 

Matters  were  going  on  very  well  before  this  check. 
The  demand  for  Testaments  was  becoming  considerable, 
so  much  so,  that  the  clergy  were  alarmed,  and  this  step 
was  the  consequence.  But  they  had  previously  recourse 
to  another,  well  worthy  of  them,  they  attempted  to  act 
upon  my  fears.  One  of  the  ruffians  of  Madrid,  called 
Manolos,  came  up  to  me  one  night,  in  a dark  street,  and 
told  me  that  unless  I discontinued  selling  my  “ Jewish 
books,”  I should  have  a knife  “ nailed  in  my  heart”;  but 
I told  him  to  go  home,  say  his  prayers,  and  tell  his  em- 
ployers that  I pitied  them;  whereupon  he  turned  away 
with  an  oath.  A few  days  after,  I received  an  order  to 
send  two  copies  of  the  Testament  to  the  office  of  the 
political  governor,  with  which  I complied,  and  in  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  an  alguazil  arrived  at  the  shop  with 
a notice  prohibiting  the  further  sale  of  the  work. 

One  circumstance  rejoiced  me.  Singular  as  it  may 
appear,  the  authorities  took  no  measures  to  cause  my 
little  despacho  to  be  closed,  and  I received  no  prohibition 
respecting  the  sale  of  any  work  but  the  New  Testament, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


341 


and  as  the  Gospel  of  Saint  Luke,  in  Romany  and  Basque, 
would  within  a short  time  be  ready  for  delivery,  I hoped 
to  carry  on  matters  in  a small  way  till  better  times  should 
arrive. 

I was  advised  to  erase  from  the  shop  windows  the 
words  “ Despacho  of  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society.” 
This,  however,  I refused  to  do.  Those  words  had  tended 
very  much  to  call  attention,  which  was  my  grand  object. 
Had  I attempted  to  conduct  things  in  an  underhand 
manner,  I should,  at  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking, 
scarcely  have  sold  thirty  copies  in  Madrid,  instead  of  nearly 
three  hundred.  People  who  know  me  not,  may  be  disposed 
to  call  me  rash;  but  I am  far  from  being  so,  as  I never 
adopt  a venturous  course  when  any  other  is  open  to  me. 
I am  not,  however,  a person  to  be  terrified  by  any  danger, 
when  I see  that  braving  it  is  the  only  way  to  achieve  an 
object. 

The  booksellers  were  unwilling  to  sell  my  work;  I was 
compelled  to  establish  a shop  of  my  own.  Every  shop 
in  Madrid  has  a name.  What  name  could  I give  it  but 
the  true  one?  I was  not  ashamed  of  my  cause  or  my 
colours.  I hoisted  them,  and  fought  beneath  them  not 
without  success. 

The  priestly  party  in  Madrid,  in  the  meantime,  spared 
no  effort  to  vilify  me.  They  started  a publication  called 
The  Friend  of  the  Christian  Religion , in  which  a stupid 
but  furious  attack  upon  me  appeared,  which  I,  however, 
treated  with  the  contempt  it  deserved.  But  not  satisfied 
with  this,  they  endeavoured  to  incite  the  populace  against 
me,  by  telling  them  that  I was  a sorcerer,  and  a companion 
of  Gypsies  and  witches,  and  their  agents  even  called  me 
so  in  the  streets.  That  I was  an  associate  of  Gypsies  and 
fortune-tellers  I do  not  deny.  Why  should  I be  ashamed 
of  their  company  when  my  Master  mingled  with  publicans 
and  thieves?  Many  of  the  Gypsy  race  came  frequently 
to  visit  me;  received  instruction,  and  heard  parts  of  the 
Gospel  read  to  them  in  their  own  language,  and  when  they 
were  hungry  and  faint,  I gave  them  to  eat  and  drink. 
This  might  be  deemed  sorcery  in  Spain,  but  I am  not 
without  hope  that  it  will  be  otherwise  estimated  in  England, 
and  had  I perished  at  this  period,  I think  there  are  some 
who  would  have  been  disposed  to  acknowledge  that  I had 
not  lived  altogether  in  vain  (always  as  an  instrument  of 
the  “ Most  Highest  ”),  having  been  permitted  to  turn  one 
of  the  most  valuable  books  of  God  into  the  speech  of  the 
most  degraded  of  his  creatures. 

In  the  meantime  I endeavoured  to  enter  into  negotiations 
with  the  ministry,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  permission 


342 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


to  sell  the  New  Testament  in  Madrid,  and  the  nullification 
of  the  prohibition.  I experienced,  however,  great  opposi- 
tion, which  I was  unable  to  surmount.  Several  of  the 
ultra-popish  bishops,  then  resident  in  Madrid,  had  de- 
nounced the  Bible,  the  Bible  Society,  and  myself.  Never- 
theless, notwithstanding  their  powerful  and  united  efforts, 
they  were  unable  to  effect  their  principal  object,  namely, 
my  expulsion  from  Madrid  and  Spain.  The  Count  Ofalia, 
notwithstanding  he  had  permitted  himself  to  be  made  the 
instrument,  to  a certain  extent,  of  these  people,  would  not 
consent  to  be  pushed  to  such  a length.  Throughout  this 
affair,  I cannot  find  words  sufficiently  strong  to  do  justice 
to  the  zeal  and  interest  which  Sir  George  Yilliers  displayed 
in  the  cause  of  the  Testament.  He  had  various  interviews 
with  Ofalia  on  the  subject,  and  in  these  he  expressed  to 
him  his  sense  of  the  injustice  and  tyranny  which  had  been 
practised  in  this  instance  towards  his  countryman. 

Ofalia  had  been  moved  by  these  remonstrances,  and 
more  than  once  promised  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  oblige 
Sir  George;  but  then  the  bishops  again  beset  him,  and 
playing  upon  his  political  if  not  religious  fears,  prevented 
him  from  acting  a just,  honest,  and  honourable  part.  At 
the  desire  of  Sir  George  Yilliers,  I drew  up  a brief  account 
of  the  Bible  Society,  and  an  exposition  of  its  views,  especially 
in  respect  to  Spain,  which  he  presented  with  his  own  hands 
to  the  Count.  I shall  not  trouble  the  reader  by  inserting 
this  memorial,  but  content  myself  with  observing,  that 
I made  no  attempts  to  flatter  and  cajole,  but  expressed 
myself  honestly  and  frankly,  as  a Christian  ought.  Ofalia, 
on  reading  it,  said,  “ What  a pity  that  this  is  a Protestant 
society,  and  that  all  its  members  are  not  Catholics.” 

A few  days  subsequently,  to  my  great  astonishment, 
he  sent  a message  to  me  by  a friend,  requesting  that  I 
would  send  him  a copy  of  my  Gypsy  Gospel.  I may  as 
well  here  state,  that  the  fame  of  this  work,  though  not  yet 
published,  had  already  spread  like  wildfire  through  Madrid, 
and  every  person  was  passionately  eager  to  possess  a copy; 
indeed,  several  grandees  of  Spain  sent  messages  with 
similar  requests,  all  of  which  I however  denied.  I instantly 
resolved  to  take  advantage  of  this  overture  on  the  part  of 
Count  Ofalia,  and  to  call  on  him  myself.  I therefore 
caused  a copy  of  the  Gospel  to  be  handsomely  bound,  and 
proceeding  to  the  palace,  was  instantly  admitted  to  him. 
He  was  a dusky,  diminutive  person,  between  fifty  and 
sixty  years  of  age,  with  false  hair  and  teeth,  but  exceedingly 
gentlemanly  manners.  He  received  me  with  great  affa- 
bility, and  thanked  me  for  my  present;  but  on  my  pro- 
ceeding to  speak  of  the  New  Testament,  he  told  me  that 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


343 


the  subject  was  surrounded  with  difficulties,  and  that  the 
great  body  of  the  clergy  had  taken  up  the  matter  against 
me;  he  conjured  me,  however,  to  be  patient  and  peaceable, 
in  which  case  he  said  he  would  endeavour  to  devise  some 
plan  to  satisfy  me.  Amongst  other  things,  he  observed 
that  the  bishops  hated  a sectarian  more  than  an  Atheist. 
Whereupon  I replied,  that,  like  the  Pharisees  of  old,  they 
cared  more  for  the  gold  of  the  temple  than  the  temple 
itself.  Throughout  the  whole  of  our  interview  he  evidently 
laboured  under  great  fear,  and  was  continually  looking 
behind  and  around  him,  seemingly  in  dread  of  being  over- 
heard, which  brought  to  my  mind  an  expression  of  a friend 
of  mine,  that  if  there  be  any  truth  in  metempsychosis,  the 
soul  of  Count  Ofalia  must  have  originally  belonged  to  a 
mouse.  We  parted  in  kindness,  and  I went  away,  wonder- 
ing by  what  strange  chance  this  poor  man  had  become 
prime  minister  of  a country  like  Spain. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

The  Two  Gospels — The  Alguazil — The  Warrant — The  Good  Maria — The 
Arrest — Sent  to  Prison — Reflections — The  Reception — The  Prison 
Room — Redress  Demanded. 

At  length  the  Gospel  of  Saint  Luke  in  the  Gypsy  language 
was  in  a state  of  readiness.  I therefore  deposited  a certain 
number  of  copies  in  the  despacho,  and  announced  them 
for  sale.  The  Basque,  which  was  by  this  time  also  printed, 
was  likewise  advertised.  For  this  last  work  there  was 
little  demand.  Not  so,  however,  for  the  Gypsy  Luke, 
of  which  I could  have  easily  disposed  of  the  whole  edition 
in  less  than  a fortnight.  Long,  however,  before  this  period 
had  expired,  the  clergy  were  up  in  arms.  “ Sorcery!  ” said 
one  bishop.  “ There  is  more  in  this  than  we  can  dive 
into,”  exclaimed  a second.  “ He  will  convert  all  Spain 
by  means  of  the  Gypsy  language,”  cried  a third.  And 
then  came  the  usual  chorus  on  such  occasions,  of  Que 
infamia ! Que  picardia ! At  last,  having  consulted 
together,  away  they  hurried  to  their  tool  the  corregidor, 
or,  according  to  the  modern  term,  the  gefe  politico  of 
Madrid.  I have  forgotten  the  name  of  this  worthy,  of 
whom  I had  myself  no  personal  knowledge  whatever. 
Judging  from  his  actions,  however,  and  from  common 
report,  I should  say  that  he  was  a stupid  wrong-headed 
creature,  savage  withal — a melange  of  borrico,  mule,  and 


344 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


wolf.  Having  an  inveterate  antipathy  to  all  foreigners, 
he  lent  a willing  ear  to  the  complaint  of  my  accusers,  and 
forthwith  gave  orders  to  make  a seizure  of  all  the  copies 
of  the  Gypsy  Gospel  which  could  be  found  in  the  despacho. 
The  consequence  was,  that  a numerous  body  of  alguazils 
directed  their  steps  to  the  Calle  del  principe;  some  thirty 
copies  of  the  book  in  question  were  pounced  upon,  and 
about  the  same  number  of  Saint  Luke  in  Basque.  With 
this  spoil  these  satellites  returned  in  triumph  to  the  gefatura 
politica,  where  they  divided  the  copies  of  the  Gypsy  volume 
amongst  themselves,  selling  subsequently  the  greater 
number  at  a large  price,  the  book  being  in  the  greatest 
demand,  and  thus  becoming  unintentionally  agents  of  an 
heretical  society.  But  every  one  must  live  by  his  trade, 
say  these  people,  and  they  lose  no  opportunity  of  making 
their  words  good,  by  disposing  to  the  best  advantage  of 
any  booty  which  falls  into  their  hands.  As  no  person 
cared  about  the  Basque  Gospel,  it  was  safely  stowed  away, 
with  other  unmarketable  captures,  in  the  warehouses  of 
the  office. 

The  Gypsy  Gospels  had  now  been  seized,  at  least  as 
many  as  were  exposed  for  sale  in  the  despacho.  The 
corregidor  and  his  friends,  however,  were  of  opinion  that 
many  more  might  be  obtained  by  means  of  a little  manage- 
ment. Fellows,  therefore,  hangers-on  of  the  police  office, 
were  daily  dispatched  to  the  shop  in  all  kinds  of  disguises, 
inquiring,  with  great  seeming  anxiety,  for  “ Gypsy  books,” 
and  offering  high  prices  for  copies.  They,  however,  returned 
to  their  employers  empty-handed.  My  Gallegan  was  on 
his  guard,  informing  all  who  made  inquiries,  that  books 
of  no  description  would  be  sold  at  the  establishment  for 
the  present.  Which  was  in  truth  the  case,  as  I had  given 
him  particular  orders  to  sell  no  more  under  any  pretence 
whatever. 

I got  no  credit,  however,  for  my  frank  dealing.  The 
corregidor  and  his  confederates  could  not  persuade  them- 
selves but  that  by  some  means  mysterious  and  unknown 
to  them,  I was  daily  selling  hundreds  of  these  Gypsy 
books,  which  were  to  revolutionize  the  country,  and 
annihilate  the  power  of  the  Father  of  Rome.  A plan  was 
therefore  resolved  upon,  by  means  of  which  they  hoped 
to  have  an  opportunity  of  placing  me  in  a position  which 
would  incapacitate  me  for  some  time  from  taking  any 
active  measures  to  circulate  the  Scriptures,  either  in  Gypsy 
or  in  any  other  language. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  first  of  May,  if  I forget 
not,  that  an  unknown  individual  made  his  appearance  in 
my  apartment  as  I was  seated  at  breakfast;  he  was  a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


345 


mean-looking  fellow,  about  the  middle  stature,  with  a 
countenance  on  which  knave  was  written  in  legible  char- 
acters. The  hostess  ushered  him  in,  and  then  withdrew. 
I did  not  like  the  appearance  of  my  visitor,  but  assuming 
some  degree  of  courtesy,  I requested  him  to  sit  down, 
and  demanded  his  business.  “ I come  from  his  excellency 
the  political  chief  of  Madrid,”  he  replied,  “ and  my  business 
is  to  inform  you  that  his  excellency  is  perfectly  aware 
of  your  proceedings,  and  is  at  any  time  able  to  prove  that 
you  are  still  disposing  of  in  secret  those  evil  books  which 
you  have  been  forbidden  to  sell.”  “ Is  he  so,”  I replied; 
“ pray  let  him  do  so  forthwith,  but  what  need  of  giving 
me  information?  ” “ Perhaps,”  continued  the  fellow, 

“ you  think  his  worship  has  no  witnesses;  know,  however, 
that  he  has  many,  and  respectable  ones  too.”  “ Doubtless,” 
I replied,  “ and  from  the  respectability  of  your  own  appear- 
ance, you  are  perhaps  one  of  them.  But  you  are  occupying 
my  time  unprofitably ; begone,  therefore,  and  tell  whoever 
sent  you,  that  I have  by  no  means  a high  opinion  of  his 
wisdom.”  “ I shall  go  when  I please,”  retorted  the  fellow; 
“ do  you  know  to  whom  you  are  speaking?  Are  you  aware 
that  if  I think  fit  I can  search  your  apartment,  yes,  even 
below  your  bed?  What  have  we  here,”  he  continued, 
and  commenced  with  his  stick  poking  a heap  of  papers 
which  lay  upon  a chair;  “ what  have  we  here;  are  these 
also  papers  of  the  Gypsies?  ” I instantly  determined  upon 
submitting  no  longer  to  this  behaviour,  and  taking  the 
fellow  by  the  arm,  led  him  out  of  the  apartment,  and  then 
still  holding  him,  conducted  him  downstairs  from  the  third 
floor  in  which  I lived,  into  the  street,  looking  him  stead- 
fastly in  the  face  the  whole  while. 

The  fellow  had  left  his  sombrero  on  the  table,  which 
I dispatched  to  him  by  the  landlady,  who  delivered  it 
into  his  hand  as  he  stood  in  the  street  staring  with  distended 
eyes  at  the  balcony  of  my  apartment. 

“ A trampa  has  been  laid  for  you,  Don  Jorge,”  said 
Maria  Diaz,  when  she  had  reascended  from  the  street; 
“ that  corchete  came  here  with  no  other  intention  than 
to  have  a dispute  with  you;  out  of  every  word  you  have 
said  he  will  make  a long  history,  as  is  the  custom  with 
these  people:  indeed  he  said,  as  I handed  him  his  hat, 
that  ere  twenty-four  hours  were  over,  you  should  see  the 
inside  of  the  prison  of  Madrid.” 

In  effect,  during  the  course  of  the  morning,  I was  told 
that  a warrant  had  been  issued  for  my  apprehension.  The 
prospect  of  incarceration,  however,  did  not  fill  me  with 
much  dismay;  an  adventurous  life  and  inveterate  habits 
of  wandering  having  long  familiarized  me  to  situations  of 


316 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


every  kind,  so  much  so  as  to  feel  myself  quite  as  comfort- 
able in  a prison  as  in  the  gilded  chamber  of  palaces;  indeed 
more  so,  as  in  the  former  place  I can  always  add  to  my 
store  of  useful  information,  whereas  in  the  latter,  ennui 
frequently  assails  me.  I had,  moreover,  been  thinking 
for  some  time  past  of  paying  a visit  to  the  prison,  partly 
in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  say  a few  words  of  Christian 
instruction  to  the  criminals,  and  partly  with  the  view  of 
making  certain  investigations  in  the  robber  language  of 
Spain,  a subject  about  which  I had  long  felt  much  curiosity; 
indeed,  I had  already  made  application  for  admittance 
into  the  Carcel  de  la  Corte,  but  had  found  the  matter  sur- 
rounded with  difficulties,  as  my  friend  Ofalia  would  have 
said.  I rather  rejoiced  then  in  the  opportunity  which  was 
now  about  to  present  itself  of  entering  the  prison,  not  in 
the  character  of  a visitor  for  an  hour,  but  as  a martyr, 
and  as  one  suffering  in  the  holy  cause  of  religion.  I was 
determined,  however,  to  disappoint  my  enemies  for  that 
day  at  least,  and  to  render  null  the  threat  of  the  alguazil, 
that  I should  be  imprisoned  within  twenty-four  hours. 
I therefore  took  up  my  abode  for  the  rest  of  the  day  in  a 
celebrated  French  tavern  in  the  Calle  del  Caballero  de 
Gracia,  which,  as  it  was  one  of  the  most  fashionable  and 
public  places  in  Madrid,  I naturally  concluded  was  one  of 
the  last  where  the  corregidor  would  think  of  seeking  me. 

About  ten  at  night,  Maria  Diaz,  to  whom  I had  com- 
municated the  place  of  my  retreat,  arrived  with  her  son, 
Juan  Lopez.  “ O senor,”  said  she  on  seeing  me,  “ they 
are  already  in  quest  of  you;  the  alcalde  of  the  barrio, 
with  a large  comitiva  of  alguazils  and  such  like  people, 
have  just  been  at  our  house  with  a warrant  for  your 
imprisonment  from  the  corregidor.  They  searched  the 
whole  house,  and  were  much  disappointed  at  not  finding 
you.  Wo  is  me,  what  will  they  do  when  they  catch  you?  ” 
“ Be  under  no  apprehensions,  good  Maria,”  said  I;  “ you 
forget  that  I am  an  Englishman,  and  so  it  seems  does  the 
corregidor.  Whenever  he  catches  me,  depend  upon  it 
he  will  be  glad  enough  to  let  me  go.  For  the  present, 
however,  we  will  permit  him  to  follow  his  own  course, 
for  the  spirit  of  folly  seems  to  have  seized  him.” 

I slept  at  the  tavern,  and  in  the  forenoon  of  the  following 
day  repaired  to  the  embassy,  where  I had  an  interview 
with  Sir  George,  to  whom  I related  every  circumstance 
of  the  affair.  He  said  that  he  could  scarcely  believe 
that  the  corregidor  entertained  any  serious  intentions  of 
imprisoning  me:  in  the  first  place,  because  I had  com- 
mitted no  offence;  and  in  the  second,  because  I was  not 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  that  functionary,  but  under  that 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


347 


of  the  captain-general,  who  was  alone  empowered  to  decide 
upon  matters  which  relate  to  foreigners,  and  before  whom 
I must  be  brought  in  the  presence  of  the  consul  of  my 
nation.  “ However/'  said  he,  “ there  is  no  knowing  to 
what  length  these  jacks  in  office  may  go.  I therefore 
advise  you,  if  you  are  under  any  apprehension,  to  remain 
as  my  guest  at  the  embassy  for  a few  days,  for  here  you 
will  be  quite  safe."  I assured  him  that  I was  under  no 
apprehension  whatever,  having  long  been  accustomed  to 
adventures  of  this  kind.  From  the  apartment  of  Sir 
George,  I proceeded  to  that  of  the  first  secretary  of  embassy, 
Mr.  Southern,  with  whom  I entered  into  conversation.  I 
had  scarcely  been  there  a minute  when  my  servant  Fran- 
cisco rushed  in,  much  out  of  breath,  and  in  violent  agitation, 
exclaiming  in  Basque,  “ Niri  jauna  ( master  mine),  the 
alguaziloac  and  the  corchetoac,  and  all  the  other  lapurrac 
(i thieves ) are  again  at  the  house.  They  seem  half  mad, 
and  not  being  able  to  find  you,  are  searching  your  papers, 
thinking,  I suppose,  that  you  are  hid  among  them."  Mr. 
Southern  here  interrupting  him,  inquired  of  me  what 
all  this  meant.  Whereupon  I told  him,  saying  at  the  same 
time,  that  it  was  my  intention  to  proceed  at  once  to  my 
lodgings.  “ But  perhaps  these  fellows  will  arrest  you," 
said  Mr.  S.,  “ before  we  can  interfere."  “ I must  take 
my  chance  as  to  that,"  I replied,  and  presently  afterwards 
departed. 

Ere,  however,  I had  reached  the  middle  of  the  street 
of  Alcala,  two  fellows  came  up  to  me,  and  telling  me  that 
I was  their  prisoner,  commanded  me  to  follow  them  to 
the  office  of  the  corregidor.  They  were  in  fact  alguazils, 
who,  suspecting  that  I might  enter  or  come  out  of  the 
embassy,  had  stationed  themselves  in  the  neighbourhood. 
I instantly  turned  round  to  Francisco,  and  told  him  in 
Basque  to  return  to  the  embassy  and  to  relate  there  to  the 
secretary  what  had  just  occurred.  The  poor  fellow  set  off 
like  lightning,  turning  half  round,  however,  to  shake  his 
fist,  and  to  vent  a Basque  execration  at  the  two  lapurrac, 
as  he  called  the  alguazils. 

They  conducted  me  to  the  gefatura  or  office  of  the 
corregidor,  where  they  ushered  me  into  a large  room, 
and  motioned  me  to  sit  down  on  a wooden  bench.  They 
then  stationed  themselves  on  each  side  of  me:  there  were 
at  least  twenty  people  in  the  apartment  beside  ourselves, 
evidently  from  their  appearance  officials  of  the  establish- 
ment. They  were  all  well  dressed,  for  the  most  part  in  the 
French  fashion,  in  round  hats,  coats,  and  pantaloons, 
and  yet  they  looked  what  in  reality  they  were,  Spanish 
alguazils,  spies,  and  informers,  and  Gil  Bias,  could  he 


348 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


have  waked  from  his  sleep  of  two  centuries,  would,  not- 
withstanding the  change  of  fashion,  have  had  no  difficulty 
in  recognizing  them.  They  glanced  at  me  as  they  stood 
lounging  about  the  room;  they  gathered  themselves 
together  in  a circle  and  began  conversing  in  whispers. 
I heard  one  of  them  say,  “ he  understands  the  seven  Gypsy 
jargons.”  Then  presently  another,  evidently  from  his 
language  an  Andalusian,  said,  “ Es  muy  diestro  (he  is  very 
skilful),  and  can  ride  a horse  and  dart  a knife  full  as  well 
as  if  he  came  from  my  own  country.”  Thereupon  they  all 
turned  round  and  regarded  me  with  a species  of  interest, 
evidently  mingled  with  respect,  which  most  assuredly 
they  would  not  have  exhibited  had  they  conceived  that 
I was  merely  an  honest  man  bearing  witness  in  a righteous 
cause. 

I waited  patiently  on  the  bench  at  least  one  hour, 
expecting  every  moment  to  be  summoned  before  my 
lord  the  corregidor.  I suppose,  however,  that  I was  not 
deemed  worthy  of  being  permitted  to  see  so  exalted  a 
personage,  for  at  the  end  of  that  time,  an  elderly  man, 
one  however  evidently  of  the  alguazil  genus,  came  into 
the  room  and  advanced  directly  towards  me.  “ Stand 
up,”  said  he.  I obeyed.  “ What  is  your  name?  ” he 
demanded.  I told  him.  “ Then,”  he  replied,  exhibiting 
a paper  which  he  held  in  his  hand,  “ Senor,  it  is  the  will 
of  his  excellency  the  corregidor  that  you  be  forthwith 
sent  to  prison.” 

He  looked  at  me  steadfastly  as  he  spoke,  perhaps 
expecting  that  I should  sink  into  the  earth  at  the  for- 
midable name  of  prison;  I however  only  smiled.  He  then 
delivered  the  paper,  which  I suppose  was  the  warrant 
for  my  committal,  into  the  hand  of  one  of  my  two  captors, 
and  obeying  a sign  which  they  made,  I followed  them. 

I subsequently  learned  that  the  secretary  of  legation, 
Mr.  Southern,  had  been  dispatched  by  Sir  George,  as 
soon  as  the  latter  had  obtained  information  of  my  arrest, 
and  had  been  waiting  at  the  office  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  time  that  I was  there.  He  had  demanded  an 
audience  of  the  corregidor,  in  which  he  had  intended  to 
have  remonstrated  with  him,  and  pointed  out  to  him 
the  danger  to  which  he  was  subjecting  himself  by  the  rash 
step  which  he  was  taking.  The  sullen  functionary,  how- 
ever, had  refused  to  see  him,  thinking,  perhaps,  that  to 
listen  to  reason  would  be  a dereliction  of  dignity:  by  this 
conduct,  however,  he  most  effectually  served  me,  as  no 
person,  after  such  a specimen  of  uncalled-for  insolence, 
felt  disposed  to  question  the  violence  and  injustice  which 
had  been  practised  towards  me. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


349 


The  alguazils  conducted  me  across  the  Plaza  Mayor 
to  the  Carcel  de  la  Corte,  or  prison  of  the  court,  as  it  is 
called.  Whilst  going  across  the  square,  I remembered 
that  this  was  the  place  where,  in  “ the  good  old  times,”  the 
Inquisition  of  Spain  was  in  the  habit  of  holding  its  solemn 
Autos  da  fe , and  I cast  my  eye  to  the  balcony  of  the  city 
hall,  where  at  the  most  solemn  of  them  all,  the  last  of  the 
Austrian  line  in  Spain  sat,  and  after  some  thirty  heretics, 
of  both  sexes,  had  been  burnt  by  fours  and  by  fives,  wiped 
his  face,  perspiring  with  heat,  and  black  with  smoke,  and 
calmly  inquired,  “ No  hay  mas?  ” for  which  exemplary 
proof  of  patience  he  was  much  applauded  by  his  priests 
and  confessors,  who  subsequently  poisoned  him.  “ And 
here  am  I,”  thought  I,  “ who  have  done  more  to  wound 
Popery,  than  all  the  poor  Christian  martyrs  that  ever 
suffered  in  this  accursed  square,  merely  sent  to  prison, 
from  which  I am  sure  to  be  liberated  in  a few  days,  with 
credit  and  applause.  Pope  of  Rome!  I believe  you  to  be 
as  malicious  as  ever,  but  you  are  sadly  deficient  in  power. 
You  are  become  paralytic,  Batuschca,  and  your  club  has 
degenerated  to  a crutch.” 

We  arrived  at  the  prison,  which  stands  in  a narrow 
street  not  far  from  the  great  square.  We  entered  a dusky 
passage,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a wicket  door.  My 
conductors  knocked,  a fierce  visage  peered  through  the 
wicket;  there  was  an  exchange  of  words,  and  in  a few 
moments  I found  myself  within  the  prison  of  Madrid,  in 
a kind  of  corridor  which  overlooked  at  a considerable 
altitude  what  appeared  to  be  a court,  from  which  arose 
a hubbub  of  voices,  and  occasionally  wild  shouts  and  cries. 
Within  the  corridor  which  served  as  a kind  of  office,  were 
several  people;  one  of  them  sat  behind  a desk,  and  to  him 
the  alguazils  went  up,  and  after  discoursing  with  him  some 
time  in  low  tones,  delivered  the  warrant  into  his  hands. 
He  perused  it  with  attention,  then  rising  he  advanced  to 
me.  What  a figure!  He  was  about  forty  years  of  age, 
and  his  height  might  have  amounted  to  some  six  feet  two 
inches,  had  he  not  been  curved  much  after  the  fashion  of 
the  letter  S.  No  weazel  ever  appeared  lanker,  and  he 
looked  as  if  a breath  of  air  would  have  been  sufficient 
to  blow  him  away;  his  face  might  certainly  have  been  called 
handsome,  had  it  not  been  for  its  extraordinary  and 
portentous  meagreness;  his  nose  was  like  an  eagle's  bill, 
his  teeth  white  as  ivory,  his  eyes  black  (Oh  how  black!) 
and  fraught  with  a strange  expression,  his  skin  was  dark, 
and  the  hair  of  his  head  like  the  plumage  of  the  raven.  A 
deep  quiet  smile  dwelt  continually  on  his  features;  but 
with  all  the  quiet  it  was  a cruel  smile,  such  a one  as  would 


350 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


have  graced  the  countenance  of  a Nero.  “ Mais  en  revanche 
personne  n’etoit  plus  honnete”  “ Caballero,”  said  he, 
“ allow  me  to  introduce  myself  to  you  as  the  alcayde  of 
this  prison.  I perceive  by  this  paper  that  I am  to  have 
the  honour  of  your  company  for  a time,  a short  time  doubt- 
less, beneath  this  roof;  I hope  you  will  banish  every 
apprehension  from  your  mind.  I am  charged  to  treat  you 
with  all  the  respect  which  is  due  to  the  illustrious  nation 
to  which  you  belong,  and  which  a cavalier  of  such  exalted 
category  as  yourself  is  entitled  to  expect.  A needless 
charge,  it  is  true,  as  I should  only  have  been  too  happy 
of  my  own  accord  to  have  afforded  you  every  comfort 
and  attention.  Caballero,  you  will  rather  consider  yourself 
here  as  a guest  than  a prisoner;  you  will  be  permitted 
to  roam  over  every  part  of  this  house  whenever  you 
think  proper.  You  will  find  matters  here  not  altogether 
below  the  attention  of  a philosophic  mind.  Pray  issue 
whatever  commands  you  may  think  fit  to  the  turnkeys 
and  officials,  even  as  if  they  were  your  own  servants.  I 
will  now  have  the  honour  of  conducting  you  to  your  apart- 
ment— the  only  one  at  present  unoccupied.  We  invariably 
reserve  it  for  cavaliers  of  distinction.  I am  happy  to  say 
that  my  orders  are  again  in  consonance  with  my  inclination. 
No  charge  whatever  will  be  made  for  it  to  you,  though  the 
daily  hire  of  it  is  not  unfrequently  an  ounce  of  gold.  I 
entreat  you,  therefore,  to  follow  me,  cavalier,  who  am  at 
all  times  and  seasons  the  most  obedient  and  devoted  of 
your  servants.”  Here  he  took  off  his  hat  and  bowed 
profoundly. 

Such  was  the  speech  of  the  alcayde  of  the  prison  of 
Madrid;  a speech  delivered  in  pure  sonorous  Castilian, 
with  calmness,  gravity,  and  almost  with  dignity  ; a speech 
which  would  have  done  honour  to  a gentleman  of  high 
birth,  to  Monsieur  Basompierre,  of  the  Old  Bastile,  receiving 
an  Italian  prince,  or  the  high  constable  of  the  Tower  an 
English  duke  attainted  of  high  treason.  Now,  who  in  the 
name  of  wonder  was  this  alcayde? 

One  of  the  greatest  rascals  in  all  Spain.  A fellow 
who  had  more  than  once  by  his  grasping  cupidity,  and 
by  his  curtailment  of  the  miserable  rations  of  the  prisoners, 
caused  an  insurrection  in  the  court  below  only  to  be  re- 
pressed by  bloodshed,  and  by  summoning  military  aid; 
a fellow  of  low  birth,  who,  only  five  years  previous,  had 
been  drummer  to  a band  of  royalist  volunteers! 

But  Spain  is  the  land  of  extraordinary  characters. 

I followed  the  alcayde  to  the  end  of  the  corridor,  where 
was  a massive  grated  door,  on  each  side  of  which  sat  a 
grim  fellow  of  a turnkey.  The  door  was  opened,  and 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


351 


turning  to  the  right  we  proceeded  down  another  corridor, 
in  which  were  many  people  walking  about,  whom  I subse- 
quently discovered  to  be  prisoners  like  myself,  but  for 
political  offences.  At  the  end  of  this  corridor,  which 
extended  the  whole  length  of  the  patio,  we  turned  into 
another,  and  the  first  apartment  in  this  was  the  one  destined 
for  myself.  It  was  large  and  lofty,  but  totally  destitute 
of  every  species  of  furniture,  with  the  exception  of  a huge 
wooden  pitcher,  intended  to  hold  my  daily  allowance  of 
water.  <f  Caballero,”  said  the  alcayde,  “ the  apartment 
is  without  furniture,  as  you  see.  It  is  already  the  third 
hour  of  the  tarde,  I therefore  advise  you  to  lose  no  time 
in  sending  to  your  lodgings  for  a bed  and  whatever  you 
may  stand  in  need  of,  the  llavero  here  shall  do  your  bidding. 
Caballero,  adieu  till  I see  you  again.” 

I followed  his  advice,  and  writing  a note  in  pencil  to 
Maria  Diaz,  I dispatched  it  by  the  llavero,  and  then  sitting 
down  on  the  wooden  pitcher,  I fell  into  a reverie,  which 
continued  for  a considerable  time. 

Night  arrived,  and  so  did  Maria  Diaz,  attended  by 
two  porters  and  Francisco,  all  loaded  with  furniture.  A 
lamp  was  lighted,  charcoal  was  kindled  in  the  brasero, 
and  the  prison  gloom  was  to  a certain  degree  dispelled. 

I now  left  my  seat  on  the  pitcher,  and  sitting  down 
on  a chair,  proceeded  to  dispatch  some  wine  and  viands, 
which  my  good  hostess  had  not  forgotten  to  bring  with 
her.  Suddenly  Mr.  Southern  entered.  He  laughed  heartily 
at  finding  me  engaged  in  the  manner  I have  described. 

“ B ,”  said  he,  “ you  are  the  man  to  get  through  the 

world,  for  you  appear  to  take  all  things  coolly,  and  as 
matters  of  course.  That,  however,  which  most  surprises 
me  with  respect  to  you  is,  your  having  so  many  friends; 
here  you  are  in  prison,  surrounded  by  people  ministering 
to  your  comforts.  Your  very  servant  is  your  friend, 
instead  of  being  your  worst  enemy,  as  is  usually  the  case. 
That  Basque  of  yours  is  a noble  fellow.  I shall  never 
forget  how  he  spoke  for  you,  when  he  came  running  to  the 
embassy  to  inform  us  of  your  arrest.  He  interested  both 
Sir  George  and  myself  in  the  highest  degree:  should  you 
ever  wish  to  part  with  him,  I hope  you  will  give  me  the 
refusal  of  his  services.  But  now  to  other  matters.”  He 
then  informed  me  that  Sir  George  had  already  sent  in  an 
official  note  to  Ofalia,  demanding  redress  for  such  a wanton 
outrage  on  the  person  of  a British  subject.  “ You  must 
remain  in  prison,”  said  he,  “ to-night,  but  depend  upon  it 
that  to-morrow,  if  you  are  disposed,  you  may  quit  in 
triumph.”  “ I am  by  no  means  disposed  for  any  such 
thing,”  I replied.  “ They  have  put  me  in  prison  for  their 


352 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


pleasure,  and  I intend  to  remain  here  for  my  own.”  “ If 
the  confinement  is  not  irksome  to  you,”  said  Mr.  Southern, 
“ I think,  indeed,  it  will  be  your  wisest  plan;  the  govern- 
ment have  committed  themselves  sadly  with  regard  to 
you;  and,  to  speak  plainly,  we  are  by  no  means  sorry  for 
it.  They  have  on  more  than  one  occasion  treated  ourselves 
very  cavalierly,  and  we  have  now,  if  you  continue  firm, 
an  excellent  opportunity  of  humbling  their  insolence.  I 
will  instantly  acquaint  Sir  George  with  your  determination, 
and  you  shall  hear  from  us  early  on  the  morrow.”  He 
then  bade  me  farewell;  and  flinging  myself  on  my  bed, 
I was  soon  asleep  in  the  prison  of  Madrid. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Ofalia — The  Juez — Carcel  de  la  Corte — Sunday  in  Prison — Robber  Dress 
— Father  and  Son  — Characteristic  Behaviour  — The  Frenchman  — 
Prison  Allowance— Valley  of  the  Shadow — Pure  Castilian — Balseiro 
— The  Cave — Robber  Glory. 

Ofalia  quickly  perceived  that  the  imprisonment  of  a 
British  subject  in  a manner  so  illegal  as  that  which  had 
attended  my  own,  was  likely  to  be  followed  by  rather 
serious  consequences.  Whether  he  himself  had  at  all 
encouraged  the  corregidor  in  his  behaviour  towards  me, 
it  is  impossible  to  say;  the  probability  is  that  he  had  not: 
the  latter,  however,  was  an  officer  of  his  own  appointing, 
for  whose  actions  himself  and  the  government  were  to  a 
certain  extent  responsible.  Sir  George  had  already  made 
a very  strong  remonstrance  upon  the  subject,  and  had 
even  gone  so  far  as  to  state  in  an  official  note  that  he  should 
desist  from  all  farther  communication  with  the  Spanish 
government  until  full  and  ample  reparation  had  been 
afforded  me  for  the  violence  to  which  I had  been  subjected. 
Ofalia’s  reply  was,  that  immediate  measures  should  be  taken 
for  my  liberation,  and  that  it  would  be  my  own  fault  if 
I remained  in  prison.  He  forthwith  ordered  a juez  de  la 
primera  instancia,  a kind  of  solicitor-general,  to  wait 
upon  me,  who  was  instructed  to  hear  my  account  of  the 
affair,  and  then  to  dismiss  me  with  an  admonition  to  be 
cautious  for  the  future.  My  friends  of  the  embassy, 
however,  had  advised  me  how  to  act  in  such  a case.  Ac- 
cordingly, when  the  juez  on  the  second  night  of  my  imprison- 
ment made  his  appearance  at  the  prison,  and  summoned 
me  before  him,  I went,  but  on  his  proceeding  to  question 
me,  I absolutely  refused  to  answer.  " I deny  your  right 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


353 


to  put  any  questions  to  me,”  said  I;  “ I entertain,  how- 
ever, no  feelings  of  disrespect  to  the  government  or  to  your- 
self, Caballero  Juez;  but  I have  been  illegally  imprisoned. 
So  accomplished  a jurist  as  yourself  cannot  fail  to  be  aware 
that,  according  to  the  laws  of  Spain,  I,  as  a foreigner, 
could  not  be  committed  to  prison  for  the  offence  with 
which  I had  been  charged,  without  previously  being  con- 
ducted before  the  captain-general  of  this  royal  city,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  protect  foreigners,  and  see  that  the  laws  of 
hospitality  are  not  violated  in  their  persons.” 

Juez. — Come,  come,  Don  Jorge,  I see  what  you  are 
aiming  at;  but  listen  to  reason:  I will  not  now  speak  to 
you  as  a juez  but  as  a friend  who  wishes  you  well,  and 
who  entertains  a profound  reverence  for  the  British  nation. 
This  is  a foolish  affair  altogether;  I will  not  deny  that  the 
political  chief  acted  somewhat  hastily  on  the  information 
of  a person  not  perhaps  altogether  worthy  of  credit.  No 
great  damage,  however,  has  been  done  to  you,  and  to  a 
man  of  the  world  like  yourself,  a little  adventure  of  this 
kind  is  rather  calculated  to  afford  amusement  than  any- 
thing else.  Now  be  advised,  forget  what  has  happened; 
you  know  that  it  is  the  part  and  duty  of  a Christian  to 
forgive;  so,  Don  Jorge,  I advise  you  to  leave  this  place 
forthwith.  I dare  say  you  are  getting  tired  of  it.  You 
are  this  moment  free  to  depart;  repair  at  once  to  your 
lodgings,  where,  I promise  you,  that  no  one  shall  be 
permitted  to  interrupt  you  for  the  future.  It  is  getting 
late,  and  the  prison  doors  will  speedily  be  closed  for  the 
night.  Vamos , Don  Jorge , a la  casa , a la  posada  ! 

Myself . — “ But  Paul  said  unto  them,  they  have  beaten 
us  openly  uncondemned,  being  Romans,  and  have  cast 
us  into  prison;  and  now  do  they  thrust  us  out  privily? 
Nay,  verily:  but  let  them  come  themselves  and  fetch  us 
out.” 

I then  bowed  to  the  juez,  who  shrugged  his  shoulders 
and  took  snuff.  On  leaving  the  apartment  I turned  to 
the  alcayde,  who  stood  at  the  door:  “ Take  notice,”  said 
I,  “ that  I will  not  quit  this  prison  till  I have  received  full 
satisfaction  for  being  sent  hither  uncondemned.  You  may 
expel  me  if  you  please,  but  any  attempt  to  do  so  shall  be 
resisted  with  all  the  bodily  strength  of  which  I am  pos- 
sessed.” 

“ Your  worship  is  right,”  said  the  alcayde  with  a bow, 
but  in  a low  voice. 

Sir  George,  on  hearing  of  this  affair,  sent  me  a letter 
in  which  he  highly  commended  my  resolution  not  to  leave 
the  prison  for  the  present,  at  the  same  time  begging  me 
to  let  him  know  if  there  were  anything  that  he  could  send 
33— m 


354  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

me  from  the  embassy  to  render  my  situation  more 
tolerable. 

I will  now  leave  for  the  present  my  own  immediate 
affairs,  and  proceed  to  give  some  account  of  the  prison 
of  Madrid  and  its  inmates. 

The  Carcel  de  la  Corte,  where  I now  was,  though  the 
principal  prison  of  Madrid,  is  one  which  certainly  in  no 
respect  does  credit  to  the  capital  of  Spain.  Whether 
it  was  originally  intended  for  the  purpose  to  which  it  is 
at  present  applied,  I have  no  opportunity  of  knowing. 
The  chances,  however,  are,  that  it  was  not;  indeed  it  was 
not  till  of  late  years  that  the  practice  of  building  edifices 
expressly  intended  and  suited  for  the  incarceration  of 
culprits  came  at  all  into  vogue.  Castles,  convents,  and 
deserted  palaces,  have  in  all  countries,  at  different  times, 
been  converted  into  prisons,  which  practice  still  holds  good 
upon  the  greater  part  of  the  continent,  and  more  particu- 
larly in  Spain  and  Italy,  which  accounts,  to  a certain  extent, 
for  the  insecurity  of  the  prisons,  and  the  misery,  want  of 
cleanliness,  and  unhealthiness  which  in  general  pervade  them. 

I shall  not  attempt  to  enter  into  a particular  descrip- 
tion of  the  prison  of  Madrid,  indeed  it  would  be  quite 
impossible  to  describe  so  irregular  and  rambling  an  edifice. 
Its  principal  features  consisted  of  two  courts,  the  one  behind 
the  other,  intended  for  the  great  body  of  the  prisoners 
to  take  air  and  recreation  in.  Three  large  vaulted  dungeons 
or  calabozos  occupied  three  sides  of  this  court,  immediately 
below  the  corridors  of  which  I have  already  spoken.  These 
dungeons  were  roomy  enough  to  contain  respectively  from 
one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  prisoners,  who  were 
at  night  secured  therein  with  lock  and  bar,  but  during  the 
day  were  permitted  to  roam  about  the  courts  as  they 
thought  fit.  The  second  court  was  considerably  larger 
than  the  first,  though  it  contained  but  two  dungeons, 
horribly  filthy  and  disgusting  places;  this  second  court 
being  used  for  the  reception  of  the  lower  grades  of  thieves. 
Of  the  two  dungeons  one  was,  if  possible,  yet  more  horrible 
than  the  other;  it  was  called  the  gallineria,  or  chicken 
coop,  and  within  it  every  night  were  pent  up  the  young 
fry  of  the  prison,  wretched  boys  from  seven  to  fifteen 
years  of  age,  the  greater  part  almost  in  a state  of  nudity. 
The  common  bed  of  all  the  inmates  of  these  dungeons 
was  the  ground,  between  which  and  their  bodies  nothing 
intervened,  save  occasionally  a manta  or  horse-cloth,  or 
perhaps  a small  mattress;  this  latter  luxury  was,  however, 
of  exceedingly  rare  occurrence. 

Besides  the  calabozos  connected  with  the  courts,  were 
other  dungeons  in  various  parts  of  the  prison;  some  of 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


355 


them  quite  dark,  intended  for  the  reception  of  those  whom 
it  might  be  deemed  expedient  to  treat  with  peculiar  severity. 
There  was  likewise  a ward  set  apart  for  females.  Connected 
with  the  principal  corridor  were  many  small  apartments, 
where  resided  prisoners  confined  for  debt  or  for  political 
offences.  And,  lastly,  there  was  a small  capilla  or  chapel, 
in  which  prisoners  cast  for  death  passed  the  last  three 
days  of  their  existence  in  company  of  their  ghostly  advisers. 

I shall  not  soon  forget  my  first  Sunday  in  prison. 
Sunday  is  the  gala  day  of  the  prison,  at  least  of  that  of 
Madrid,  and  whatever  robber  finery  is  to  be  found  within 
it,  is  sure  to  be  exhibited  on  that  day  of  holiness.  There 
is  not  a set  of  people  in  the  world  more  vain  than  robbers 
in  general,  more  fond  of  cutting  a figure  whenever  they 
have  an  opportunity,  and  of  attracting  the  eyes  of  their 
fellow  creatures  by  the  gallantry  of  their  appearance. 
The  famous  Sheppard  of  olden  times  delighted  in  sporting 
a suit  of  Genoese  velvet,  and  when  he  appeared  in  public 
generally  wore  a silver-hilted  sword  at  his  side;  whilst 
Yaux  and  Hayward,  heroes  of  a later  day,  were  the  best 
dressed  men  on  the  pav6  of  London.  Many  of  the  Italian 
bandits  go  splendidly  decorated,  and  the  very  Gypsy 
robber  has  a feeling  for  the  charms  of  dress;  the  cap  alone 
of  the  Haram  Pasha,  or  leader  of  the  cannibal  Gypsy  band 
which  infested  Hungary  towards  the  conclusion  of  the  last 
century,  was  adorned  with  gold  and  jewels  to  the  value  of 
four  thousand  guilders.  Observe,  ye  vain  and  frivolous, 
how  vanity  and  crime  harmonize.  The  Spanish  robbers 
are  as  fond  of  this  species  of  display  as  their  brethren 
of  other  lands,  and,  whether  in  prison  or  out  of  it,  are 
never  so  happy  as  when,  decked  out  in  a profusion  of  white 
linen,  they  can  loll  in  the  sun,  or  walk  jauntily  up  and 
down. 

Snow-white  linen,  indeed,  constitutes  the  principal 
feature  in  the  robber  foppery  of  Spain.  Neither  coat 
nor  jacket  is  worn  over  the  shirt,  the  sleeves  of  which 
are  wide  and  flowing,  only  a waistcoat  of  green  or  blue  silk, 
with  an  abundance  of  silver  buttons,  which  are  intended 
more  for  show  than  use,  as  the  vest  is  seldom  buttoned. 
Then  there  are  wide  trousers,  something  after  the  Turkish 
fashion;  around  the  waist  is  a crimson  faja  or  girdle, 
and  about  the  head  is  tied  a gaudily  coloured  handkerchief 
from  the  loom  of  Barcelona;  light  pumps  and  silk  stockings 
complete  the  robber's  array.  This  dress  is  picturesque 
enough,  and  well  adapted  to  the  fine  sunshiny  weather  of 
the  Peninsula;  there  is  a dash  of  effeminacy  about  it,  how- 
ever, hardly  in  keeping  with  the  robber's  desperate  trade. 
It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  it  is  every  robber 


356 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


who  can  indulge  in  all  this  luxury ; there  are  various  grades 
of  thieves,  some  poor  enough,  with  scarcely  a rag  to  cover 
them.  Perhaps  in  the  crowded  prison  of  Madrid,  there 
were  not  more  than  twenty  who  exhibited  the  dress  which 
I have  attempted  to  describe  above;  these  were  jente  de 
reputation , tip-top  thieves,  mostly  young  fellows,  who, 
though  they  had  no  money  of  their  own,  were  supported 
in  prison  by  their  majas  and  amigas,  females  of  a certain 
class,  who  form  friendships  with  robbers,  and  whose  glory 
and  delight  it  is  to  administer  to  the  vanity  of  these  fellows 
with  the  wages  of  their  own  shame  and  abasement.  These 
females  supplied  their  cortejos  with  the  snowy  linen, 
washed,  perhaps,  by  their  own  hands  in  the  waters  of  the 
Manzanares,  for  the  display  of  the  Sunday,  when  they  would 
themselves  make  their  appearance  dressed  a la  maja,  and 
from  the  corridors  would  gaze  with  admiring  eyes  upon 
the  robbers  vapouring  about  in  the  court  below. 

Amongst  those  of  the  snowy  linen  who  most  particu- 
larly attracted  my  attention,  were  a father  and  son;  the 
former  was  a tall  athletic  figure  of  about  thirty,  by  profes- 
sion a housebreaker,  and  celebrated  throughout  Madrid 
for  the  peculiar  dexterity  which  he  exhibited  in  his  calling. 
He  was  now  in  prison  for  a rather  atrocious  murder  com- 
mitted in  the  dead  of  night,  in  a house  at  Garamanchel, 
in  which  his  only  accomplice  was  his  son,  a child  under 
seven  years  of  age.  “ The  apple,”  as  the  Danes  say,  “ had 
not  fallen  far  from  the  tree  ” ; the  imp  was  in  every  respect 
the  counterpart  of  the  father,  though  in  miniature.  He, 
too,  wore  the  robber  shirt  sleeves,  the  robber  waistcoat 
with  the  silver  buttons,  the  robber  kerchief  round  his  brow, 
and,  ridiculous  enough,  a long  Manchegan  knife  in  the 
crimson  faja.  He  was  evidently  the  pride  of  the  ruffian 
father,  who  took  all  imaginable  care  of  this  chick  of  the 
gallows,  would  dandle  him  on  his  knee,  and  would  occasion- 
ally take  the  cigar  from  his  own  moustached  lips  and 
insert  it  in  the  urchin's  mouth.  The  boy  was  the  pet  of 
the  court,  for  the  father  was  one  of  the  valientes  of  the 
prison,  and  those  who  feared  his  prowess,  and  wished  to 
pay  their  court  to  him,  were  always  fondling  the  child. 
What  an  enigma  is  this  world  of  ours!  How  dark  and 
mysterious  are  the  sources  of  what  is  called  crime  and 
virtue!  If  that  infant  wretch  become  eventually  a 
murderer  like  his  father,  is  he  to  blame?  Fondled  by 
robbers,  already  dressed  as  a robber,  born  of  a robber,  whose 
own  history  was  perhaps  similar.  Is  it  right? 

O,  man,  man,  seek  not  to  dive  into  the  mystery  of  moral 
good  and  evil;  confess  thyself  a worm,  cast  thyself  on  the 
earth,  and  murmur  with  thy  lips  in  the  dust,  Jesus,  Jesus! 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


357 


What  most  surprised  me  with  respect  to  the  prisoners, 
was  their  good  behaviour;  I call  it  good  when  all  things 
are  taken  into  consideration,  and  when  I compare  it  with 
that  of  the  general  class  of  prisoners  in  foreign  lands.  They 
had  their  occasional  bursts  of  wild  gaiety,  their  occasional 
quarrels,  which  they  were  in  the  habit  of  settling  in  a 
corner  of  the  inferior  court  with  their  long  knives;  the 
result  not  unfrequently  being  death,  or  a dreadful  gash 
in  the  face  or  the  abdomen;  but,  upon  the  whole,  their 
conduct  was  infinitely  superior  to  what  might  have  been 
expected  from  the  inmates  of  such  a place.  Yet  this  was 
not  the  result  of  coercion,  or  any  particular  care  which 
was  exercised  over  them;  for  perhaps  in  no  part  of  the 
world  are  prisoners  so  left  to  themselves  and  so  utterly 
neglected  as  in  Spain:  the  authorities  having  no  farther 
anxiety  about  them,  than  to  prevent  their  escape;  not 
the  slightest  attention  being  paid  to  their  moral  conduct 
and  not  a thought  bestowed  upon  their  health,  comfort  or 
mental  improvement,  whilst  within  the  walls.  Yet  in  this 
prison  of  Madrid,  and  I may  say  in  Spanish  prisons  in 
general,  for  I have  been  an  inmate  of  more  than  one,  the 
ears  of  the  visitor  are  never  shocked  with  horrid  blasphemy 
and  obscenity,  as  in  those  of  some  other  countries,  and 
more  particularly  in  civilized  France;  nor  are  his  eyes 
outraged  and  himself  insulted,  as  he  would  assuredly  be, 
were  he  to  look  down  upon  the  courts  from  the  galleries 
of  the  Bicetre.  And  yet  in  this  prison  of  Madrid  were 
some  of  the  most  desperate  characters  in  Spain:  ruffians 
who  had  committed  acts  of  cruelty  and  atrocity  sufficient 
to  make  the  flesh  shudder.  But  gravity  and  sedateness 
are  the  leading  characteristics  of  the  Spaniards,  and  the 
very  robber,  except  in  those  moments  when  he  is  engaged 
in  his  occupation,  and  then  no  one  is  more  sanguinary, 
pitiless,  and  wolfishly  eager  for  booty,  is  a being  who 
can  be  courteous  and  affable,  and  who  takes  pleasure 
in  conducting  himself  with  sobriety  and  decorum. 

Happily,  perhaps,  for  me,  that  my  acquaintance  with 
the  ruffians  of  Spain  commenced  and  ended  in  the  towns 
about  which  I wandered,  and  in  the  prisons  into  which 
I was  cast  for  the  Gospel's  sake,  and  that,  notwithstanding 
my  long  and  frequent  journeys,  I never  came  in  contact 
with  them  on  the  road  or  in  the  despoblado. 

The  most  ill-conditioned  being  in  the  prison  was  a 
Frenchman,  though  probably  the  most  remarkable.  Fie 
was  about  sixty  years  of  age,  of  the  middle  stature,  but 
thin  and  meagre,  like  most  of  his  countrymen;  he  had 
a villainously-formed  head,  according  to  all  the  rules  of 
craniology,  and  his  features  were  full  of  evil  expression. 


358 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


He  wore  no  hat,  and  his  clothes,  though  in  appearance 
nearly  new,  were  of  the  coarsest  description.  He  generally 
kept  aloof  from  the  rest,  and  would  stand  for  hours  together 
leaning  against  the  walls  with  his  arms  folded,  glaring 
sullenly  on  what  was  passing  before  him.  He  was  not 
one  of  the  professed  valientes,  for  his  age  prevented  his 
assuming  so  distinguished  a character,  and  yet  all  the  rest 
appeared  to  hold  him  in  a certain  awe:  perhaps  they 

feared  his  tongue,  which  he  occasionally  exerted  in  pouring 
forth  withering  curses  on  those  who  incurred  his  displeasure. 
He  spoke  perfectly  good  Spanish,  and  to  my  great  surprise 
excellent  Basque,  in  which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  con- 
versing with  Francisco,  who,  lolling  from  the  window  of 
my  apartment,  would  exchange  jests  and  witticisms  with 
the  prisoners  in  the  court  below,  with  whom  he  was  a great 
favourite. 

One  day  when  I was  in  the  patio,  to  which  I had  free 
admission  whenever  I pleased,  by  permission  of  the  alcayde, 
I went  up  to  the  Frenchman,  who  stood  in  his  usual  posture, 
leaning  against  the  wall,  and  offered  him  a cigar.  I do 
not  smoke  myself,  but  it  will  never  do  to  mix  among  the 
lower  classes  of  Spain  unless  you  have  a cigar  to  present 
occasionally.  The  man  glared  at  me  ferociously  for  a 
moment,  and  appeared  to  be  on  the  point  of  refusing  my 
offer  with  perhaps  a hideous  execration.  I repeated  it, 
however,  pressing  my  hand  against  my  heart,  whereupon 
suddenly  the  grim  features  relaxed,  and  with  a genuine 
French  grimace,  and  a low  bow,  he  accepted  the  cigar, 
exclaiming,  “ Ah,  Monsieur,  pardon,  mais  c’est  faire  trop 
d’honneur  a un  pauvre  diable  comme  moi .” 

“ Not  at  all,”  said  I,  “ we  are  both  fellow  prisoners 
in  a foreign  land,  and  being  so  we  ought  to  countenance 
each  other.  I hope  that  whenever  I have  need  of  your 
co-operation  in  this  prison  you  will  afford  it  me.” 

“ Ah,  Monsieur,”  exclaimed  the  Frenchman  in  rapture, 
“ vous  avez  bien  raison  ; il  faut  que  les  etrangers  se  donnent 
la  main  dans  ce  . . . pays  de  barb  ares.  Tenez ,”  he  added, 
in  a whisper,  “ if  you  have  any  plan  for  escaping,  and 
require  my  assistance,  I have  an  arm  and  a knife  at  your 
service:  you  may  trust  me,  and  that  is  more  than  you 
could  any  of  these  sacres  gens  ici ,”  glancing  fiercely  round 
at  his  fellow  prisoners. 

“ You  appear  to  be  no  friend  to  Spain  and  the 
Spaniards,”  said  I.  “ I conclude  that  you  have  experi- 
enced injustice  at  their  hands.  For  what  have  they 
immured  you  in  this  place?  ” 

“ Pour  rien  du  tout,  c’est  a dire  pour  une  bagatelle ; but 
what  can  you  expect  from  such  animals?  For  what  are 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  359 

you  imprisoned?  Did  I not  hear  say  for  Gypsyism  and 
sorcery?  ” 

“ Perhaps  you  are  here  for  your  opinions?  ” 

“ Ah,  mon  Dieu , non  ; je  ne  suis  pas  homme  a semblable 
betise.  I have  no  opinions.  Je  faisois  . . . mais  ce 
n’importe  ; je  me  trouve  ici,  ou  je  creve  de  faim.” 

“ I am  sorry  to  see  a brave  man  in  such  a distressed 
condition,”  said  I;  “ have  you  nothing  to  subsist  upon 
beyond  the  prison  allowance?  Have  you  no  friends?  ” 

“ Friends  in  this  country,  you  mock  me;  here  one  has 
no  friends,  unless  one  buy  them.  I am  bursting  with 
hunger;  since  I have  been  here  I have  sold  the  clothes 
off  my  back,  that  I might  eat,  for  the  prison  allowance 
will  not  support  nature,  and  of  half  of  that  we  are  robbed 
by  the  Batu,  as  they  call  the  barbarian  of  a governor. 
Les  haillons  which  now  cover  me  were  given  by  two  or 
three  devotees  who  sometimes  visit  here.  I would  sell 
them  if  they  would  fetch  aught.  I have  not  a sou,  and 
for  want  of  a few  crowns  I shall  be  garroted  within  a 
month  unless  I can  escape,  though,  as  I told  you  before, 
I have  done  nothing,  a mere  bagatelle;  but  the  worst 
crimes  in  Spain  are  poverty  and  misery.” 

“ I have  heard  you  speak  Basque,  are  you  from  French 
Biscay?  ” 

“ I am  from  Bordeaux,  Monsieur;  but  I have  lived 
much  on  the  Landes  and  in  Biscay,  travaillant  a mon 
metier . I see  by  your  look  that  you  wish  to  know  my 
history.  I shall  not  tell  it  you.  It  contains  nothing 
that  is  remarkable.  See,  I have  smoked  out  your  cigar; 
you  may  give  me  another,  and  add  a dollar  if  you  please, 
nous  sommes  creves  ici  de  faim.  I would  not  say  as  much 
to  a Spaniard,  but  I have  a respect  for  your  countrymen; 
I know  much  of  them;  I have  met  them  at  Maida  and 
the  other  place.”  * 

“ Nothing  remarkable  in  his  history!”  Why,  or  I 
greatly  err,  one  chapter  of  his  life,  had  it  been  written, 
would  have  unfolded  more  of  the  wild  and  wonderful 
than  fifty  volumes  of  what  are  in  general  called  adventures 
and  hairbreadth  escapes  by  land  and  sea.  A soldier! 
what  a tale  could  that  man  have  told  of  marches  and 
retreats,  of  battles  lost  and  won,  towns  sacked,  convents 
plundered;  perhaps  he  had  seen  the  flames  of  Moscow 
ascending  to  the  clouds,  and  had  “ tried  his  strength 
with  nature  in  the  wintry  desert,”  pelted  by  the  snow- 
storm, and  bitten  by  the  tremendous  cold  of  Russia:  and 
what  could  he  mean  by  plying  his  trade  in  Biscay  and  the 
Landes,  but  that  he  had  been  a robber  in  those  wild  regions, 

* Perhaps  Waterloo. 


360 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


of  which  the  latter  is  more  infamous  for  brigandage  and 
crime  than  any  other  part  of  the  French  territory.  Nothing 
remarkable  in  his  history!  then  what  history  in  the  world 
contains  aught  that  is  remarkable? 

I gave  him  the  cigar  and  dollar:  he  received  them, 
and  then  once  more  folding  his  arms,  leaned  back  against 
the  wall  and  appeared  to  sink  gradually  into  one  of  his 
reveries.  I looked  him  in  the  face  and  spoke  to  him, 
but  he  did  not  seem  either  to  hear  or  see  me.  His  mind 
was  perhaps  wandering  in  that  dreadful  valley  of  the 
shadow,  into  which  the  children  of  earth,  whilst  living, 
occasionally  find  their  way;  that  dreadful  region  where 
there  is  no  water,  where  hope  dwelleth  not,  where  nothing 
lives  but  the  undying  worm.  This  valley  is  the  facsimile 
of  hell,  and  he  who  has  entered  it,  has  experienced  here  on 
earth  for  a time  what  the  spirits  of  the  condemned  are 
doomed  to  suffer  through  ages  without  end. 

He  was  executed  about  a month  from  this  time.  The 
bagatelle  for  which  he  was  confined  was  robbery  and 
murder  by  the  following  strange  device.  In  concert 
with  two  others,  he  hired  a large  house  in  an  unfrequented 
part  of  the  town,  to  which  place  he  would  order  tradesmen 
to  convey  valuable  articles,  which  were  to  be  paid  for  on 
delivery;  those  who  attended  paid  for  their  credulity 
with  the  loss  of  their  lives  and  property.  Two  or  three 
had  fallen  into  the  snare.  I wished  much  to  have  had 
some  private  conversation  with  this  desperate  man,  and 
in  consequence  begged  of  the  alcayde  to  allow  him  to  dine 
with  me  in  my  own  apartment;  whereupon  Monsieur 
Basompierre,  for  so  I will  take  the  liberty  of  calling  the 
governor,  his  real  name  having  escaped  my  memory,  took 
off  his  hat,  and,  with  his  usual  smile  and  bow,  replied  in 
purest  Castilian,  “ English  Cavalier,  and  I hope  I may 
add  friend,  pardon  me,  that  it  is  quite  out  of  my  power 
to  gratify  your  request,  founded,  I have  no  doubt,  on  the 
most  admirable  sentiments  of  philosophy.  Any  of  the 
other  gentlemen  beneath  my  care  shall,  at  any  time  you 
desire  it,  be  permitted  to  wait  upon  you  in  your  apartment. 
I will  even  go  so  far  as  to  cause  their  irons,  if  irons  they 
wear,  to  be  knocked  off  in  order  that  they  may  partake 
of  your  refection  with  that  comfort  which  is  seemly  and 
convenient:  but  to  the  gentleman  in  question  I must 

object;  he  is  the  most  evil  disposed  of  the  whole  of  this 
family,  and  would  most  assuredly  breed  a funcion  either  in 
your  apartment  or  in  the  corridor,  by  an  attempt  to  escape. 
Cavalier,  me  pesa , but  I cannot  accede  to  your  request. 
But  with  respect  to  any  other  gentleman,  I shall  be  most 
happy,  even  Balseiro,  who,  though  strange  things  are  told 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


361 


of  him,  still  knows  how  to  comport  himself,  and  in  whose 
behaviour  there  is  something  both  of  formality  and  polite- 
ness, shall  this  day  share  your  hospitality  if  you  desire  it, 
Cavalier." 

Of  Balseiro  I have  already  had  occasion  to  speak  in 
the  former  part  of  this  narrative.  He  was  now  confined 
in  an  upper  story  of  the  prison,  in  a strong  room,  with 
several  other  malefactors.  He  had  been  found  guilty  of 
aiding  and  assisting  one  Pepe  Candelas,  a thief  of  no  in- 
considerable renown,  in  a desperate  robbery  perpetrated 
in  open  daylight  upon  no  less  a personage  than  the  queen's 
milliner,  a Frenchwoman,  whom  they  bound  in  her  own 
shop,  from  which  they  took  goods  and  money  to  the  amount 
of  five  or  six  thousand  dollars.  Candelas  had  already 
expiated  his  crime  on  the  scaffold,  but  Balseiro,  who  was 
said  to  be  by  far  the  worst  ruffian  of  the  two,  had  by  dint 
of  money,  an  ally  which  his  comrade  did  not  possess, 
contrived  to  save  his  own  life;  the  punishment  of  death, 
to  which  he  was  originally  sentenced,  having  been  com- 
muted to  twenty  years'  hard  labour  in  the  presidio  of 
Malaga.  I visited  this  worthy  and  conversed  with  him 
for  some  time  through  the  wicket  of  the  dungeon.  Fie 
recognized  me,  and  reminded  me  of  the  victory  which  I 
had  once  obtained  over  him,  in  the  trial  of  our  respective 
skill  in  the  crabbed  Gitano,  at  which  Sevilla  the  bull-fighter 
was  umpire. 

Upon  my  telling  him  that  I was  sorry  to  see  him  in 
such  a situation,  he  replied  that  it  was  an  affair  of  no 
manner  of  consequence,  as  within  six  weeks  he  should 
be  conducted  to  the  presidio,  from  which,  with  the  assistance 
of  a few  ounces  distributed  among  the  guards,  he  could  at 
any  time  escape.  “ But  whither  would  you  flee?  " I 
demanded.  “ Gan  I not  flee  to  the  land  of  the  Moors," 
replied  Balseiro,  “ or  to  the  English  in  the  camp  of 
Gibraltar;  or,  if  I prefer  it,  cannot  I return  to  this  foro 
(city),  and  live  as  I have  hitherto  done,  choring  the  gachos 
(robbing  the  natives)  ; what  is  to  hinder  me?  Madrid  is 
large,  and  Balseiro  has  plenty  of  friends,  especially  among 
the  lumias  ( women ),"  he  added  with  a smile.  I spoke  to  him 
of  his  ill-fated  accomplice  Candelas;  whereupon  his  face 
assumed  a horrible  expression.  “ I hope  he  is  in  torment," 
exclaimed  the  robber.  The  friendship  of  the  unrighteous 
is  never  of  long  duration;  the  two  worthies  had  it  seems 
quarrelled  in  prison;  Candelas  having  accused  the  other 
of  bad  faith  and  an  undue  appropriation  to  his  own  use 
of  the  corpus  delicti  in  various  robberies  which  they  had 
committed  in  company. 

I cannot  refrain  from  relating  the  subsequent  history 


362 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


of  this  Balseiro.  Shortly  after  my  own  liberation,  too 
impatient  to  wait  until  the  presidio  should  afford  him  a 
chance  of  regaining  his  liberty,  he  in  company  with  some 
other  convicts  broke  through  the  roof  of  the  prison  and 
escaped.  He  instantly  resumed  his  former  habits,  com- 
mitting several  daring  robberies,  both  within  and  without 
the  walls  of  Madrid.  I now  come  to  his  last,  I may  call 
it  his  master  crime,  a singular  piece  of  atrocious  villainy. 
Dissatisfied  with  the  proceeds  of  street  robbery  and  house- 
breaking, he  determined  upon  a bold  stroke,  by  which 
he  hoped  to  acquire  money  sufficient  to  support  him  in 
some  foreign  land  in  luxury  and  splendour. 

There  was  a certain  comptroller  of  the  queen’s  house- 
hold, by  name  Gabiria,  a Basque  by  birth,  and  a man  of 
immense  possessions:  this  individual  had  two  sons, 

handsome  boys,  between  twelve  and  fourteen  years  of 
age,  whom  I had  frequently  seen,  and  indeed  conversed 
with,  in  my  walks  on  the  bank  of  the  Manzanares,  which 
was  their  favourite  promenade.  These  children,  at  the 
time  of  which  I am  speaking,  were  receiving  their  education 
at  a certain  seminary  in  Madrid.  Balseiro,  being  well 
acquainted  with  the  father’s  affection  for  his  children, 
determined  to  make  it  subservient  to  his  own  rapacity. 
He  formed  a plan  which  was  neither  more  nor  less  than 
to  steal  the  children,  and  not  to  restore  them  to  their 
parent  until  he  had  received  an  enormous  ransom.  This 
plan  was  partly  carried  into  execution:  two  associates  of 
Balseiro  well  dressed  drove  up  to  the  door  of  the  seminary, 
where  the  children  were,  and,  by  means  of  a forged  letter, 
purporting  to  be  written  by  the  father,  induced  the  school- 
master to  permit  the  boys  to  accompany  them  for  a country 
jaunt,  as  they  pretended.  About  five  leagues  from  Madrid, 
Balseiro  had  a cave  in  a wild  unfrequented  spot  between 
the  Escurial  and  a village  called  Torre  Lodones:  to  this 
cave  the  children  were  conducted,  where  they  remained 
in  durance  under  the  custody  of  the  two  accomplices; 
Balseiro  in  the  meantime  remaining  in  Madrid  for  the 
purpose  of  conducting  negotiations  with  the  father.  The 
father,  however,  was  a man  of  considerable  energy,  and 
instead  of  acceding  to  the  terms  of  the  ruffian,  communicated 
in  a letter,  instantly  took  the  most  vigorous  measures  for 
the  recovery  of  his  children.  Horse  and  foot  were  sent 
out  to  scour  the  country,  and  in  less  than  a week  the 
children  were  found  near  the  cave,  having  been  abandoned 
by  their  keepers,  who  had  taken  fright  on  hearing  of  the 
decided  measures  which  had  been  resorted  to;  they  were, 
however,  speedily  arrested  and  identified  by  the  boys  as 
their  ravishers.  Balseiro  perceiving  that  Madrid  was 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


363 


becoming  too  hot  to  hold  him,  attempted  to  escape,  but 
whether  to  the  camp  of  Gibraltar  or  to  the  land  of  the 
Moor,  I know  not  ; he  was  recognized,  however,  at  a village 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Madrid,  and  being  apprehended, 
was  forthwith  conducted  to  the  capital,  where  he  shortly 
after  terminated  his  existence  on  the  scaffold,  with  his 
two  associates;  Gabiria  and  his  children  being  present 
at  the  ghastly  scene,  which  they  surveyed  from  a chariot 
at  their  ease. 

Such  was  the  end  of  Balseiro,  of  whom  I should  cer- 
tainly not  have  said  so  much,  but  for  the  affair  of  the 
crabbed  Gitano.  Poor  wretch  I he  acquired  that  species 
of  immortality  which  is  the  object  of  the  aspirations  of 
many  a Spanish  thief,  whilst  vapouring  about  in  the  patio, 
dressed  in  the  snowy  linen ; the  rape  of  the  children  of  Gabiria 
made  him  at  once  the  pet  of  the  fraternity.  A celebrated 
robber,  with  whom  I was  subsequently  imprisoned  at 
Seville,  spoke  his  eulogy  in  the  following  manner. — 

“ Balseiro  was  a very  good  subject,  and  an  honest 
man.  He  was  the  head  of  our  family,  Don  Jorge;  we 
shall  never  see  his  like  again;  pity  that  he  did  not  sack 
the  parn6  (money),  and  escape  to  the  camp  of  the  Moor, 
Don  Jorge.” 


CHAPTER  XL  I 

Maria  Diaz — Priestly  Vituperation — Antonio’s  Visit — Antonio  at  Service 
— A Scene  — Benedict  Mol  — Wandering  in  Spain  — The  Four 
Evangiles. 

“ Well,”  said  I to  Maria  Diaz  on  the  third  morning  after 
my  imprisonment,  “ what  do  the  people  of  Madrid  say 
to  this  affair  of  mine?  ” 

“ I do  not  know  what  the  people  of  Madrid  in  general 
say  about  it,  probably  they  do  not  take  much  interest 
in  it;  indeed,  imprisonments  at  the  present  time  are  such 
common  matters  that  people  seem  to  be  quite  indifferent 
to  them;  the  priests,  however,  are  in  no  slight  commotion, 
and  confess  that  they  have  committed  an  imprudent 
thing  in  causing  you  to  be  arrested  by  their  friend  the 
corregidor  of  Madrid.” 

“ How  is  that?  ” I inquired.  “ Are  they  afraid  that 
their  friend  will  be  punished?  ” 

“ Not  so,  Senor,”  replied  Maria;  “ slight  grief  indeed 
would  it  cause  them,  however  great  the  trouble  in  which 
he  had  involved  himself  on  their  account;  for  this  de- 
scription of  people  have  no  affection,  and  would  not  care 


364 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


if  all  their  friends  were  hanged,  provided  they  themselves 
escaped.  But  they  say  that  they  have  acted  imprudently 
in  sending  you  to  prison,  inasmuch  as  by  so  doing  they 
have  given  you  an  opportunity  of  carrying  a plan  of  yours 
into  execution.  ‘ This  fellow  is  a bribon,’  say  they,  ‘ and 
has  commenced  tampering  with  the  prisoners;  they  have 
taught  him  their  language,  which  he  already  speaks  as  well 
as  if  he  were  a son  of  the  prison.  As  soon  as  he  comes 
out  he  will  publish  a thieves’  gospel,  which  will  still  be  a 
more  dangerous  affair  than  the  Gypsy  one,  for  the  Gypsies 
are  few,  but  the  thieves ! woe  is  us ; we  shall  all  be  Lutheran- 
ized.  What  infamy,  what  rascality!  It  was  a trick  of 
his  own.  He  was  always  eager  to  get  into  prison,  and 
now  in  evil  hour  we  have  sent  him  there,  el  bribonazo  ; 
there  will  be  no  safety  for  Spain  until  he  is  hanged;  he 
ought  to  be  sent  to  the  four  hells,  where  at  his  leisure  he 
might  translate  his  fatal  gospels  into  the  language  of  the 
demons.’  ” 

“ I but  said  three  words  to  the  alcayde  of  the  prison,” 
said  I,  “ relative  to  the  jargon  used  by  the  children  of  the 
prison.” 

“ Three  words!  Don  Jorge;  and  what  may  not  be 
made  out  of  three  words?  You  have  lived  amongst  us 
to  little  purpose  if  you  think  we  require  more  than  three 
words  to  build  a system  with:  those  three  words  about 
the  thieves  and  their  tongue  were  quite  sufficient  to  cause 
it  to  be  reported  throughout  Madrid  that  you  had  tampered 
with  the  thieves,  had  learnt  their  language,  and  had  written 
a book  which  was  to  overturn  Spain,  open  to  the  English 
the  gates  of  Cadiz,  give  Mendizabal  all  the  church  plate 
and  jewels,  and  to  Don  Martin  Luther  the  archiepiscopal 
palace  of  Toledo.” 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  a rather  gloomy  day,  as  I was 
sitting  in  the  apartment  which  the  alcayde  had  allotted 
me,  I heard  a rap  at  the  door.  “ Who  is  that?  ” I ex- 
claimed. “ C’est  moi,  mon  maitre ,”  cried  a well-known 
voice,  and  presently  in  walked  Antonio  Buchini,  dressed 
in  the  same  style  as  when  I first  introduced  him  to  the 
reader,  namely,  in  a handsome  but  rather  faded  French 
surtout,  vest  and  pantaloons,  with  a diminutive  hat  in 
one  hand,  and  holding  in  the  other  a long  and  slender 
cane. 

“ Bon  jour , mon  maitre ,”  said  the  Greek;  then  glancing 
around  the  apartment,  he  continued,  “ I am  glad  to  find 
you  so  well  lodged.  If  I remember  right,  mon  maitre, 
we  have  slept  in  worse  places  during  our  wanderings  in 
Galicia  and  Castile.” 

“ You  are  quite  right,  Antonio,”  I replied;  “ I am  very 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


365 


comfortable.  Well,  this  is  kind  of  you  to  visit  your  ancient 
master,  more  especially  now  he  is  in  the  toils;  I hope, 
however,  that  by  so  doing  you  will  not  offend  your  present 
employer.  His  dinner  hour  must  be  at  hand;  why  are 
not  you  in  the  kitchen?  ” 

“ Of  what  employer  are  you  speaking,  mon  maitre?  ” 
demanded  Antonio. 

“ Of  whom  should  I speak  but  Count  , to  serve 

whom  you  abandoned  me,  being  tempted  by  an  offer 
of  a monthly  salary  less  by  four  dollars  than  that  which 
I was  giving  you.” 

“ Your  worship  brings  an  affair  to  my  remembrance 
which  I had  long  since  forgotten.  I have  at  present  no 
other  master  than  yourself,  Monsieur  Georges,  for  I shall 
always  consider  you  as  my  master,  though  I may  not 
enjoy  the  felicity  of  waiting  upon  you.” 

“ You  have  left  the  Count,  then,*’  said  I,  “ after  remain- 
ing three  days  in  the  house,  according  to  your  usual 
practice.” 

“Not  three  hours,  mon  maitre,”  replied  Antonio; 
“ but  I will  tell  you  the  circumstances.  Soon  after  I left 
you  I repaired  to  the  house  of  Monsieur  le  Comte;  I entered 
the  kitchen,  and  looked  about  me.  I cannot  say  that  I 
had  much  reason  to  be  dissatisfied  with  what  I saw;  the 
kitchen  was  large  and  commodious,  and  every  thing 
appeared  neat  and  in  its  proper  place,  and  the  domestics 
civil  and  courteous;  yet  I know  not  how  it  was,  the  idea 
at  once  rushed  into  my  mind  that  the  house  was  by  no 
means  suited  to  me,  and  that  I was  not  destined  to  stay 
there  long;  so  hanging  my  haversac  upon  a nail,  and  sitting 
down  on  the  dresser,  I commenced  singing  a Greek  song, 
as  I am  in  the  habit  of  doing  when  dissatisfied.  The 
domestics  came  about  me  asking  questions;  I made  them 
no  answer,  however,  and  continued  singing  till  the  hour  for 
preparing  the  dinner  drew  nigh,  when  I suddenly  sprang 
on  the  floor  and  was  not  long  in  thrusting  them  all  out  of 
the  kitchen,  telling  them  that  they  had  no  business  there  at 
such  a season;  I then  at  once  entered  upon  my  functions. 
I exerted  myself,  mon  maitre,  I exerted  myself,  and  was 
preparing  a repast  which  would  have  done  me  honour; 
there  was,  indeed,  some  company  expected  that  day, 
and  I therefore  determined  to  show  my  employer  that 
nothing  was  beyond  the  capacity  of  his  Greek  cook.  Eh 
bien , mon  maitre,  all  was  going  on  remarkably  well,  and 
I felt  almost  reconciled  to  my  new  situation,  when  who 
should  rush  into  the  kitchen  but  le  fils  de  la  maison,  my 
young  master,  an  ugly  urchin  of  thirteen  years  or  there- 
abouts; he  bore  in  his  hand  a manchet  of  bread,  which, 


366 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


after  prying  about  for  a moment,  he  proceeded  to  dip 
in  the  pan  where  some  delicate  woodcocks  were  in  the 
course  of  preparation.  You  know,  mon  maitre,  how 
sensitive  I am  on  certain  points,  for  I am  no  Spaniard  but 
a Greek,  and  have  principles  of  honour.  Without  a 
moment's  hesitation  I took  my  young  master  by  the 
shoulders,  and  hurrying  him  to  the  door,  dismissed  him 
in  the  manner  which  he  deserved;  squalling  loudly,  he 
hurried  away  to  the  upper  part  of  the  house.  I continued 
my  labours,  but  ere  three  minutes  had  elapsed,  I heard 
a dreadful  confusion  above  stairs,  on  faisoit  une  horrible 
tintamarre,  and  I could  occasionally  distinguish  oaths 
and  execrations:  presently  doors  were  flung  open,  and 

there  was  an  awful  rushing  downstairs,  a gallopade.  It 
was  my  lord  the  count,  his  lady,  and  my  young  master, 
followed  by  a regular  bevy  of  women  and  filles  de  chambre. 
Far  in  advance  of  all,  however,  was  my  lord  with  a drawn 
sword  in  his  hand,  shouting,  * Where  is  the  wretch  who 
has  dishonoured  my  son,  where  is  he?  He  shall  die  forth- 
with/ I know  not  how  it  was,  mon  maitre,  but  I just 
then  chanced  to  spill  a large  bowl  of  garbanzos,  which 
were  intended  for  the  puchera  of  the  following  day.  They 
were  uncooked,  and  were  as  hard  as  marbles;  these  I dashed 
upon  the  floor,  and  the  greater  part  of  them  fell  just  about 
the  doorway.  Eh  bien,  mon  maitre,  in  another  moment 
in  bounded  the  count,  his  eyes  sparkling  like  coals,  and, 
as  I have  already  said,  with  a rapier  in  his  hand.  ‘ Tenez , 
gueux  enrage ,'  he  screamed,  making  a desperate  lunge  at 
me,  but  ere  the  words  were  out  of  his  mouth,  his  foot 
slipping  on  the  pease,  he  fell  forward  with  great  violence 
at  his  full  length,  and  his  weapon  flew  out  of  his  hand, 
comme  une  fleche.  You  should  have  heard  the  outcry 
which  ensued — there  was  a terrible  confusion:  the  count 
lay  upon  the  floor  to  all  appearance  stunned;  I took  no 
notice,  however,  continuing  busily  employed.  They  at 
last  raised  him  up,  and  assisted  him  till  he  came  to  himself, 
though  very  pale  and  much  shaken.  He  asked  for  his 
sword:  all  eyes  were  now  turned  upon  me,  and  I saw  that 
a general  attack  was  meditated.  Suddenly  I took  a large 
caserolle  from  the  fire  in  which  various  eggs  were  frying; 
this  I held  out  at  arm's  length  peering  at  it  along  my  arm 
as  if  I were  curiously  inspecting  it ; my  right  foot  advanced 
and  the  other  thrown  back  as  far  as  possible.  All  stood 
still,  imagining,  doubtless,  that  I was  about  to  perform 
some  grand  operation,  and  so  I was;  for  suddenly  the 
sinister  leg  advancing,  with  one  rapid  coup  de  pied , I sent 
the  caserolle  and  its  contents  flying  over  my  head,  so  that 
they  struck  the  wall  far  behind  me.  This  was  to  let  them 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


367 


know  that  I had  broken  my  staff  and  had  shaken  the  dust 
of!  my  feet;  so  casting  upon  the  count  the  peculiar  glance 
of  the  Sceirote  cooks  when  they  feel  themselves  insulted, 
and  extending  my  mouth  on  either  side  nearly  as  far  as 
the  ears,  I took  down  my  haversac  and  departed,  singing 
as  I went  the  song  of  the  ancient  Demos,  who,  when  dying, 
asked  for  his  supper,  and  water  wherewith  to  lave  his 
hands: 

'0  fj\ios  ipacriXeve,  kI  6 At)[jlo5 

'ZtipTe,  7rat5id  /xov,  V rb  vepov  \pwpd  va  (par*  &Trb\pe. 

And  in  this  manner,  mon  maitre,  I left  the  house  of  the 
Count  of .” 

Myself. — And  a fine  account  you  have  given  of  your- 
self; by  your  own  confession,  your  behaviour  was  most 
atrocious.  Were  it  not  for  the  many  marks  of  courage 
and  fidelity  which  you  have  exhibited  in  my  service,  I 
would  from  this  moment  hold  no  farther  communication 
with  you. 

Antonio . — Mais  qu’est  ce  que  vous  voudriez,  mon  maitre  ? 
Am  I not  a Greek,  full  of  honour  and  sensibility?  Would 
you  have  the  cooks  of  Sceira  and  Stambul  submit  to  be 
insulted  here  in  Spain  by  the  sons  of  counts  rushing  into  the 
temple  with  manchets  of  bread.  Non,  non,  mon  maitre, 
you  are  too  noble  to  require  that,  and  what  is  more,  too  just. 
But  we  will  talk  of  other  things.  Mon  maitre,  I came  not 
alone;  there  is  one  now  waiting  in  the  corridor  anxious  to 
speak  to  you. 

Myself. — Who  is  it? 

Antonio. — One  whom  you  have  met,  mon  maitre,  in 
various  and  strange  places. 

Myself. — But  who  is  it? 

Antonio. — One  who  will  come  to  a strange  end,  for  so  it 
is  written.  The  most  extraordinary  of  all  the  Swiss,  he  of 
Saint  James, — Der  schatz  graber. 

Myself. — Not  Benedict  Mol? 

“ Yaw , mein  lieber  herr,”  said  Benedict,  pushing  open  the 
door  which  stood  ajar;  “ it  is  myself.  I met  Herr  Anton 
in  the  street,  and  hearing  that  you  were  in  this  place,  I came 
with  him  to  visit  you.” 

Myself. — And  in  the  name  of  all  that  is  singular,  how  is  it 
that  I see  you  in  Madrid  again?  I thought  that  by  this  time 
you  were  returned  to  your  own  country. 

Benedict . — Fear  not,  lieber  herr,  I shall  return  thither  in 
good  time;  but  not  on  foot,  but  with  mules  and  coach. 
The  schatz  is  still  yonder,  waiting  to  be  dug  up,  and  now  I 
have  better  hope  than  ever:  plenty  of  friends,  plenty  of 
money.  See  you  not  how  I am  dressed,  lieber  herr? 


368 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


And  verily  his  habiliments  were  of  a much  more  respect- 
able appearance  than  any  which  he  had  sported  on  former 
occasions.  His  coat  and  pantaloons,  which  were  of  light 
green,  were  nearly  new.  On  his  head  he  still  wore  an 
Andalusian  hat,  but  the  present  one  was  neither  old  nor 
shabby,  but  fresh  and  glossy,  and  of  immense  altitude  of 
cone:  whilst  in  his  hand,  instead  of  the  ragged  staff  which  I 
had  observed  at  Saint  James  and  Oviedo,  he  now  carried 
a huge  bamboo  rattan,  surmounted  by  the  grim  head  of 
either  a bear  or  lion,  curiously  cut  out  of  pewter. 

“ You  have  all  the  appearance  of  a treasure  seeker 
returned  from  a successful  expedition,”  I exclaimed. 

“ Or  rather,”  interrupted  Antonio,  “ of  one  who  has 
ceased  to  trade  on  his  own  bottom,  and  now  goes  seeking 
treasures  at  the  cost  and  expense  of  others.” 

I questioned  the  Swiss  minutely  concerning  his  ad- 
ventures since  I last  saw  him,  when  I left  him  at  Oviedo  to 
pursue  my  route  to  Santander.  From  his  answers  I gathered 
that  he  had  followed  me  to  the  latter  place ; he  was,  however, 
a long  time  in  performing  the  journey,  being  weak  from 
hunger  and  privation.  At  Santander  he  could  hear  no 
tidings  of  me,  and  by  this  time  the  trifle  which  he  had  re- 
ceived from  me  was  completely  exhausted.  He  now  thought 
of  making  his  way  into  France,  but  was  afraid  to  venture 
through  the  disturbed  provinces,  lest  he  should  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  Carlists,  who  he  conceived  might  shoot  him  as 
a spy.  No  one  relieving  him  at  Santander,  he  departed  and 
begged  his  way  till  he  found  himself  in  some  part  of  Aragon, 
but  where  he  scarcely  knew.  “ My  misery  was  so  great,” 
said  Bennet,  “ that  I nearly  lost  my  senses.  Oh,  the  horror 
of  wandering  about  the  savage  hills  and  wide  plains  of 
Spain,  without  money  and  without  hope!  Sometimes  I 
became  desperate,  when  I found  myself  amongst  rocks  and 
barrancos,  perhaps  after  having  tasted  no  food  from  sunrise 
to  sunset,  and  then  I would  raise  my  staff  towards  the  sky 
and  shake  it,  crying,  lieber  herr  Gott,  ach  lieber  herr  Gott, 
you  must  help  me  now  or  never;  if  you  tarry,  I am  lost; 
you  must  help  me  now,  now ! And  once  when  I was  raving 
in  this  manner,  methought  I heard  a voice,  nay  I am  sure 
I heard  it,  sounding  from  the  hollow  of  a rock,  clear  and 
strong;  and  it  cried,  ‘ Der  schatz,  der  schatz,  it  is  not  yet 
dug  up;  to  Madrid,  to  Madrid.  The  way  to  the  schatz  is 
through  Madrid/  And  then  the  thought  of  the  schatz 
once  more  rushed  into  my  mind,  and  I reflected  how  happy 
I might  be,  could  I but  dig  up  the  schatz.  No  more  begging, 
then,  no  more  wandering  amidst  horrid  mountains  and 
deserts;  so  I brandished  my  staff,  and  my  body  and  my 
limbs  became  full  of  new  and  surprising  strength,  and  I 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


369 


strode  forward,  and  was  not  long  before  I reached  the  high 
road;  and  then  I begged  and  bettled  as  I best  could,  until 
I reached  Madrid.” 

“ And  what  has  befallen  you  since  you  reached  Madrid?  ” 
I inquired.  “ Did  you  find  the  treasure  in  the  streets?  ” 

On  a sudden  Bennet  became  reserved  and  taciturn, 
which  the  more  surprised  me,  as,  up  to  the  present  moment, 
he  had  at  all  times  been  remarkably  communicative  with 
respect  to  his  affairs  and  prospects.  From  what  I could 
learn  from  his  broken  hints  and  innuendoes,  it  appeared 
that,  since  his  arrival  at  Madrid,  he  had  fallen  into  the  hands 
of  certain  people  who  had  treated  him  with  kindness,  and 
provided  him  with  both  money  and  clothes;  not  from  dis- 
interested motives,  however,  but  having  an  eye  to  the 
treasure.  “ They  expect  great  things  from  me,”  said  the 
Swiss;  “ and  perhaps,  after  all,  it  would  have  been  more 
profitable  to  have  dug  up  the  treasure  without  their  assist- 
ance, always  provided  that  were  possible.”  Who  his  new 
friends  were,  he  either  knew  not  or  would  not  tell  me,  save 
that  they  were  people  in  power.  He  said  something  about 
Queen  Christina  and  an  oath  which  he  had  taken  in  the 
presence  of  a bishop  on  the  crucifix  and  “ the  four 
Evangiles.”  I thought  that  his  head  was  turned,  and 
forbore  questioning.  Just  before  taking  his  departure,  he 
observed  “ Lieber  herr,  pardon  me  for  not  being  quite  frank 
towards  you,  to  whom  I owe  so  much,  but  I dare  not;  I 
am  not  now  my  own  man.  It  is,  moreover,  an  evil  thing 
at  all  times  to  say  a word  about  treasure  before  you  have 
secured  it.  There  was  once  a man  in  my  own  country,  who 
dug  deep  into  the  earth  until  he  arrived  at  a copper  vessel 
which  contained  a schatz.  Seizing  it  by  the  handle,  he 
merely  exclaimed  in  his  transport,  ‘ I have  it  ’ ; that  was 
enough,  however:  down  sank  the  kettle,  though  the  handle 
remained  in  his  grasp.  That  was  all  he  ever  got  for  his 
trouble  and  digging.  Farewell,  lieber  herr,  I shall  speedily 
be  sent  back  to  Saint  James  to  dig  up  the  schatz;  but  I will 
visit  you  ere  I go — farewell.” 


370 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XLII 

Liberation  from  Prison  — The  Apology  — Human  Nature — The  Greek’s 
Return — Church  of  Rome — Light  of  Scripture — Archbishop  of  Toledo 
— An  Interview — Stones  of  Price — A Resolution — The  Foreign 
Language — Benedict’s  Farewell — Treasure  Hunt  at  Compostella — 
Truth  and  Fiction. 

I remained  about  three  weeks  in  the  prison  of  Madrid,  and 
then  left  it.  If  I had  possessed  any  pride,  or  harboured  any 
rancour  against  the  party  who  had  consigned  me  to  durance, 
the  manner  in  which  I was  restored  to  liberty  would  no  doubt 
have  been  highly  gratifying  to  those  evil  passions ; the  govern- 
ment having  acknowledged,  by  a document  transmitted  to 
Sir  George,  that  I had  been  incarcerated  on  insufficient 
grounds,  and  that  no  stigma  attached  itself  to  me  from  the 
imprisonment  I had  undergone;  at  the  same  time  agreeing 
to  defray  all  the  expenses  to  which  I had  been  subjected 
throughout  the  progress  of  this  affair. 

It  moreover  expressed  its  willingness  to  dismiss  the 
individual  owing  to  whose  information  I had  been  first 
arrested,  namely,  the  corchete  or  police  officer  who  had 
visited  me  in  my  apartments  in  the  Calle  de  Santiago,  and 
behaved  himself  in  the  manner  which  I have  described  in  a 
former  chapter.  I declined,  however,  to  avail  myself  of  this 
condescension  of  the  government,  more  especially  as  I was 
informed  that  the  individual  in  question  had  a wife  and 
family,  who,  if  he  were  disgraced,  would  be  at  once  reduced 
to  want.  I moreover  considered  that,  in  what  he  had  done 
and  said,  he  had  probably  only  obeyed  some  private  orders 
which  he  had  received;  I therefore  freely  forgave  him,  and 
if  he  does  not  retain  his  situation  at  the  present  moment, 
it  is  certainly  no  fault  of  mine. 

I likewise  refused  to  accept  any  compensation  for  my 
expenses,  which  were  considerable.  It  is  probable  that  many 
persons  in  my  situation  would  have  acted  very  differently 
in  this  respect,  and  I am  far  from  saying  that  herein  I acted 
discreetly  or  laudably;  but  I was  averse  to  receive  money 
from  people  such  as  those  of  which  the  Spanish  government 
was  composed,  people  whom  I confess  I heartily  despised, 
and  I was  unwilling  to  afford  them  an  opportunity  of  saying 
that  after  they  had  imprisoned  an  Englishman  unjustly, 
and  without  a cause,  he  condescended  to  receive  money  at 
their  hands.  In  a word,  I confess  my  own  weakness;  I 
was  willing  that  they  should  continue  my  debtors,  and  have 
little  doubt  that  they  had  not  the  slightest  objection  to 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  371 

remain  so;  they  kept  their  money,  and  probably  laughed 
in  their  sleeves  at  my  want  of  common  sense. 

The  heaviest  loss  which  resulted  from  my  confinement, 
and  for  which  no  indemnification  could  be  either  offered 
or  received,  was  in  the  death  of  my  affectionate  and  faithful 
Basque  Francisco,  who  having  attended  me  during  the 
whole  time  of  my  imprisonment,  caught  the  pestilential 
typhus  or  gaol  fever,  which  was  then  raging  in  the  Carcel  de 
la  Gorte,  of  which  he  expired  within  a few  days  subsequent 
to  my  liberation.  His  death  occurred  late  one  evening;  the 
next  morning  as  I was  lying  in  bed  ruminating  on  my  loss, 
and  wondering  of  what  nation  my  next  servant  would  be,  I 
heard  a noise  which  seemed  to  be  that  of  a person  employed 
vigorously  in  cleaning  boots  or  shoes,  and  atintervals  a strange 
discordant  voice  singing  snatches  of  a song  in  some  unknown 
language:  wondering  who  it  could  be,  I rang  the  bell. 

“ Did  you  ring,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  appearing 
at  the  door  with  one  of  his  arms  deeply  buried  in  a boot. 

“ I certainly  did  ring,”  said  I,  “ but  I scarcely  expected 
that  you  would  have  answered  the  summons.” 

“ Mais  pourquoi  non , mon  maitre  ? ” cried  Antonio. 
“ Who  should  serve  you  now  but  myself?  N’est  pas  que 
le  sieur  Francois  est  mort  ? And  did  I not  say,  as  soon  as 
I heard  of  his  departure,  I shall  return  to  my  functions 
chez  mon  maitre , Monsieur  Georges  ? ” 

“ I suppose  you  had  no  other  employment,  and  on  that 
account  you  came.” 

“ Au  contraire , mon  maitre,”  replied  the  Greek,  “ I had 
just  engaged  myself  at  the  house  of  the  Duke  of  Frias, 
from  whom  I was  to  receive  ten  dollars  per  month  more 
than  I shall  accept  from  your  worship ; but  on  hearing  that 
you  were  without  a domestic,  I forthwith  told  the  Duke, 
though  it  was  late  at  night,  that  he  would  not  suit  me,  and 
here  I am.” 

“ I shall  not  receive  you  in  this  manner,”  said  I;  “ return 
to  the  Duke,  apologize  for  your  behaviour,  request  your 
dismission  in  a regular  way ; and  then  if  his  grace  is  willing 
to  part  with  you,  as  will  most  probably  be  the  case,  I shall 
be  happy  to  avail  myself  of  your  services.” 

It  is  reasonable  to  expect  that  after  having  been  sub- 
jected to  an  imprisonment  which  my  enemies  themselves 
admitted  to  be  unjust,  I should  in  future  experience  more 
liberal  treatment  at  their  hands  than  that  which  they  had 
hitherto  adopted  towards  me.  The  sole  object  of  my 
ambition  at  this  time  was  to  procure  toleration  for  the  sale 
of  the  Gospel  in  this  unhappy  and  distracted  kingdom,  and 
to  have  attained  this  end  I would  not  only  have  consented 
to  twenty  such  imprisonments  in  succession,  as  that  which 


372 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


I had  undergone,  but  would  gladly  have  sacrificed  life  itself. 

I soon  perceived,  however,  that  I was  likely  to  gain  nothing 
by  my  incarceration;  on  the  contrary,  I had  become  an 
object  of  personal  dislike  to  the  government  since  the 
termination  of  this  affair,  which  it  was  probable  I had  never 
been  before;  their  pride  and  vanity  were  humbled  by  the 
concessions  which  they  had  been  obliged  to  make  in  order 
to  avoid  a rupture  with  England.  This  dislike  they  were 
now  determined  to  gratify,  by  thwarting  my  views  as  much 
as  possible.  I had  an  interview  with  Of  alia  on  the  subject 
uppermost  in  my  mind:  I found  him  morose  and  snappish. 
“ It  will  be  for  your  interest  to  be  still,”  said  he;  “ beware! 
you  have  already  thrown  the  whole  corte  into  confusion; 
beware,  I repeat;  another  time  you  may  not  escape  so  easily.” 
“ Perhaps  not,”  I replied,  “ and  perhaps  I do  not  wish  it; 
it  is  a pleasant  thing  to  be  persecuted  for  the  Gospel's  sake. 

I now  take  the  liberty  of  inquiring  whether,  if  I attempt  to 
circulate  the  word  of  God,  I am  to  be  interrupted.”  “ Of 
course,”  exclaimed  Of  alia;  “ the  church  forbids  such 
circulation.”  “ I shall  make  the  attempt,  however,”  I 
exclaimed.  “ Do  you  mean  what  you  say?  ” demanded 
Ofalia,  arching  his  eyebrows  and  elongating  his  mouth. 
“ Yes,”  I continued,  “ I shall  make  the  attempt  in  every 
village  in  Spain  to  which  I can  penetrate.” 

Throughout  my  residence  in  Spain  the  clergy  were 
the  party  from  which  I experienced  the  strongest  opposi- 
tion; and  it  was  at  their  instigation  that  the  government 
originally  adopted  those  measures  which  prevented  any 
extensive  circulation  of  the  sacred  volume  through  the  land. 
I shall  not  detain  the  course  of  my  narrative  with  reflections 
as  to  the  state  of  a church,  which,  though  it  pretends  to  be 
founded  on  Scripture,  would  yet  keep  the  light  of  Scripture 
from  all  mankind,  if  possible.  But  Rome  is  fully  aware  that 
she  is  not  a Christian  church,  and  having  no  desire  to  become 
so,  she  acts  prudently  in  keeping  from  the  eyes  of  her 
followers  the  page  which  would  reveal  to  them  the  truths  of 
Christianity.  Her  agents  and  minions  throughout  Spain 
exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost  to  render  my  humble 
labours  abortive,  and  to  vilify  the  work  which  I was  attempt- 
ing to  disseminate.  All  the  ignorant  and  fanatical  clergy 
(the  great  majority)  were  opposed  to  it,  and  all  those  who 
were  anxious  to  keep  on  good  terms  with  the  court  of  Rome 
were  loud  in  their  cry  against  it.  There  was,  however,  one 
section  of  the  clergy,  a small  one,  it  is  true,  rather  favour- 
ably disposed  towards  the  circulation  of  the  Gospel  though 
by  no  means  inclined  to  make  any  particular  sacrifice  for 
the  accomplishment  of  such  an  end:  these  were  such  as 
professed  liberalism,  which  is  supposed  to  mean  a disposition 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


373 


to  adopt  any  reform  both  in  civil  and  church  matters,  which 
may  be  deemed  conducive  to  the  weal  of  the  country.  Not 
a few  amongst  the  Spanish  clergy  were  supporters  of  this 
principle,  or  at  least  declared  themselves  so,  some  doubtless 
for  their  own  advancement,  hoping  to  turn  the  spirit  of  the 
times  to  their  own  personal  profit;  others,  it  is  to  be  hoped, 
from  conviction,  and  a pure  love  of  the  principle  itself. 
Amongst  these  were  to  be  found,  at  the  time  of  which  I am 
speaking,  several  bishops.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  however, 
that  of  all  these  not  one  but  owed  his  office,  not  to  the  Pope, 
who  disowned  them  one  and  all,  but  to  the  Queen  Regent, 
the  professed  head  of  liberalism  throughout  all  Spain.  It 
is  not,  therefore,  surprising  that  men  thus  circumstanced 
should  feel  rather  disposed  than  not  to  countenance  any 
measure  or  scheme  at  all  calculated  to  favour  the  advance- 
ment of  liberalism;  and  surely  such  an  one  was  a circulation 
of  the  Scriptures.  I derived  but  little  assistance  from  their 
good  will,  however,  supposing  that  they  entertained  some, 
as  they  never  took  any  decided  stand  nor  lifted  up  their 
voices  in  a bold  and  positive  manner,  denouncing  the 
conduct  of  those  who  would  withhold  the  light  of  Scripture 
from  the  world.  At  one  time  I hoped  by  their  instrument- 
ality to  accomplish  much  in  Spain  in  the  Gospel  cause; 
but  I was  soon  undeceived,  and  became  convinced  that 
reliance  on  what  they  would  effect,  was  like  placing  the  hand 
on  a staff  of  reed  which  will  only  lacerate  the  flesh.  More 
than  once  some  of  them  sent  messages  to  me,  expressive 
of  their  esteem,  and  assuring  me  how  much  the  cause  of  the 
Gospel  was  dear  to  their  hearts.  I even  received  an  intima- 
tion that  a visit  from  me  would  be  agreeable  to  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo,  the  Primate  of  Spain. 

Of  this  personage  I can  say  but  little,  his  early  history 
being  entirely  unknown  to  me.  At  the  death  of  Ferdinand, 
I believe,  he  was  Bishop  of  Mallorca,  a small  insignificant 
see,  of  very  scanty  revenues,  which  perhaps  he  had  no  objec- 
tion to  exchange  for  one  more  wealthy;  it  is  probable, 
however,  that  had  he  proved  a devoted  servant  of  the  Pope, 
and  consequently  a supporter  of  legitimacy,  he  would  have 
continued  to  the  day  of  his  death  to  fill  the  episcopal  chair 
of  Mallorca;  but  he  was  said  to  be  a liberal,  and  the  Queen 
Regent  thought  fit  to  bestow  upon  him  the  dignity  of  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo,  by  which  he  became  the  head  of  the 
Spanish  church.  The  Pope,  it  is  true,  had  refused  to  ratify 
the  nomination,  on  which  account  all  good  Catholics  were 
still  bound  to  consider  him  as  Bishop  of  Mallorca,  and  not  as 
Primate  of  Spain.  He  however  received  the  revenues 
belonging  to  the  see,  which,  though  only  a shadow  of  what 
they  originally  were,  were  still  considerable,  and  lived  in  the 


374 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

primate's  palace  at  Madrid,  so  that  if  he  were  not  archbishop 
de  jure , he  was  what  many  people  would  have  considered 
much  better,  archbishop  de  facto. 

Hearing  that  this  personage  was  a personal  friend  of 
Ofalia,  who  was  said  to  entertain  a very  high  regard  for 
him,  I determined  upon  paying  him  a visit,  and  accordingly 
one  morning  betook  myself  to  the  palace  in  which  he  resided. 

I experienced  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  an  interview,  being 
forthwith  conducted  to  his  presence  by  a common  kind 
of  footman,  an  Asturian,  I believe,  whom  I found  seated 
on  a stone  bench  in  the  entrance  hall.  When  I was  intro- 
duced the  Archbishop  was  alone,  seated  behind  a table 
in  a large  apartment,  a kind  of  drawing-room;  he  was 
plainly  dressed,  in  a black  cassock  and  silken  cap;  on  his 
finger,  however,  glittered  a superb  amethyst,  the  lustre  of 
which  was  truly  dazzling.  He  rose  for  a moment  as  I 
advanced,  and  motioned  me  to  a chair  with  his  hand.  He 
might  be  about  sixty  years  of  age;  his  figure  was  very  tall, 
but  he  stooped  considerably,  evidently  from  feebleness,  and 
the  pallid  hue  of  ill  health  overspread  his  emaciated  features. 
When  he  had  reseated  himself,  he  dropped  his  head,  and 
appeared  to  be  looking  on  the  table  before  him. 

“ I suppose  your  lordship  knows  who  I am?”  said  I, 
at  last  breaking  silence. 

The  Archbishop  bent  his  head  towards  the  right  shoulder, 
in  a somewhat  equivocal  manner,  but  said  nothing. 

“ I am  he  whom  the  Manolos  of  Madrid  call  Don  Jorgito 
el  Ingles;  I am  just  come  out  of  prison,  whither  I was 
sent  for  circulating  my  Lord's  Gospel  in  this  kingdom  of 
Spain?  " 

The  Archbishop  made  the  same  equivocal  motion  with 
his  head,  but  still  said  nothing. 

“ I was  informed  that  your  lordship  was  desirous  of 
seeing  me,  and  on  that  account  I have  paid  you  this  visit." 

“ I did  not  send  for  you,"  said  the  Archbishop,  sud- 
denly raising  his  head  with  a startled  look. 

“ Perhaps  not:  I was,  however,  given  to  understand 

that  my  presence  would  be  agreeable;  but  as  that  does 
not  seem  to  be  the  case,  I will  leave." 

“ Since  you  are  come,  I am  very  glad  to  see  you." 

“ I am  very  glad  to  hear  it,"  said  I,  reseating  myself; 
“ and  since  I am  here,  we  may  as  well  talk  of  an  all- 
important  matter,  the  circulation  of  the  Scripture.  Does 
your  lordship  see  any  way  by  which  an  end  so  desirable 
might  be  brought  about?  " 

“ No,"  said  the  Archbishop  faintly. 

" Does  not  your  lordship  think  that  a knowledge  of  the 
Scripture  would  work  inestimable  benefit  in  these  realms?  " 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


375 


“ I don’t  know.” 

“ Is  it  probable  that  the  government  may  be  induced 
to  consent  to  the  circulation?  ” 

“ How  should  I know?  ” and  the  Archbishop  looked  me 
in  the  face. 

I looked  in  the  face  of  the  Archbishop;  there  was  an 
expression  of  helplessness  in  it,  which  almost  amounted 
to  dotage.  “ Dear  me,”  thought  I,  “ whom  have  I come 
to  on  an  errand  like  mhie?  Poor  man,  you  are  not  fitted 
to  play  the  part  of  Martin  Luther,  and  least  of  all  in  Spain. 
I wonder  why  your  friends  selected  you  to  be  Archbishop 
of  Toledo;  they  thought  perhaps  that  you  would  do 
neither  good  nor  harm,  and  made  choice  of  you,  as  they 
sometimes  do  primates  in  my  own  country,  for  your  in- 
capacity. You  do  not  seem  very  happy  in  your  present 
situation;  no  very  easy  stall  this  of  yours.  You  were 
more  comfortable,  I trow,  when  you  were  the  poor  Bishop 
of  Mallorca;  could  enjoy  your  puchera  then  without 
fear  that  the  salt  would  turn  out  sublimate.  No  fear  then 
of  being  smothered  in  your  bed.  A siesta  is  a pleasant 
thing  when  one  is  not  subject  to  be  disturbed  by  * the 
sudden  fear.’  I wonder  whether  they  have  poisoned  you 
already,”  I continued,  half  aloud,  as  I kept  my  eyes  fixed 
on  his  countenance,  which  methought  was  becoming 
ghastly. 

“ Did  you  speak,  Don  Jorge?  ” demanded  the  Arch- 
bishop. 

“ That  is  a fine  brilliant  on  your  lordship’s  hand,” 
said  I. 

“ You  are  fond  of  brilliants,  Don  Jorge,”  said  the 
Archbishop,  his  features  brightening  up;  “ vayal  so  am 
I;  they  are  pretty  things.  Do  you  understand  them?  ” 

“ I do,”  said  I,  “ and  I never  saw  a finer  brilliant  than 
your  own,  one  excepted;  it  belonged  to  an  acquaintance 
of  mine,  a Tartar  Khan.  He  did  not  bear  it  on  his  finger, 
however;  it  stood  in  the  frontlet  of  his  horse,  where  it 
shone  like  a star.  He  called  it  Daoud  Scharr,  which,  being 
interpreted,  meaneth  light  of  war” 

“Vaya!”  said  the  Archbishop,  “ how  very  extra- 
ordinary; I am  glad  you  are  fond  of  brilliants,  Don  Jorge. 
Speaking  of  horses,  reminds  me  that  I have  frequently  seen 
you  on  horseback.  Yaya!  how  you  ride;  it  is  dangerous 
to  be  in  your  way.” 

“ Is  your  lordship  fond  of  equestrian  exercise?  ” 

“ By  no  means,  Don  Jorge;  I do  not  like  horses;  it 
is  not  the  practice  of  the  church  to  ride  on  horseback. 
We  prefer  mules:  they  are  the  quieter  animals;  I fear 
horses,  they  kick  so  violently.” 


376 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


“ The  kick  of  a horse  is  death,”  said  I,  " if  it  touches 
a vital  part.  I am  not,  however,  of  your  lordship's  opinion 
with  respect  to  mules:  a good  ginete  may  retain  his  seat 
on  a horse  however  vicious,  but  a mule — vaya!  when  a 
false  mule  lira  por  detras , I do  not  believe  that  the  Father 
of  the  Church  himself  could  keep  the  saddle  a moment, 
however  sharp  his  bit.” 

As  I was  going  away,  I said,  “ And  with  respect  to  the 
Gospel,  your  lordship;  what  am  I to  understand?  ” 

“ No  se,”  said  the  Archbishop,  again  bending  his  head 
towards  the  right  shoulder,  whilst  his  features  resumed 
their  former  vacant  expression.  And  thus  terminated 
my  interview  with  the  Archbishop  of  Toledo. 

“ It  appears  to  me,”  said  I to  Maria  Diaz,  on  returning 
home;  “ it  appears  to  me,  Marequita  mia,  that  if  the  Gospel 
in  Spain  is  to  wait  for  toleration  until  these  liberal  bishops 
and  archbishops  come  forward  boldly  in  its  behalf,  it  will 
have  to  tarry  a considerable  time.” 

“ I am  much  of  your  worship's  opinion,”  answered 
Maria;  “ a fine  thing,  truly,  it  would  be  to  wait  till  they 
exerted  themselves  in  its  behalf.  Ca!  the  idea  makes  me 
smile:  was  your  worship  ever  innocent  enough  to  suppose 
that  they  cared  one  tittle  about  the  Gospel  or  its  cause? 
Vaya!  they  are  true  priests,  and  had  only  self-interest 
in  view  in  their  advances  to  you.  The  Holy  Father  disowns 
them,  and  they  would  now  fain,  by  awaking  his  fears  and 
jealousy,  bring  him  to  some  terms;  but  let  him  once 
acknowledge  them  and  see  whether  they  would  admit  you 
to  their  palaces  or  hold  any  intercourse  with  you:  ‘ Forth 
with  the  fellow,'  they  would  say;  ‘vaya!  is  he  not  a 
Lutheran?  Is  he  not  an  enemy  to  the  Church?  A la 
horca , a la  horca ! ' I know  this  family  better  than  you 
do,  Don  Jorge.” 

“ It  is  useless  tarrying,”  said  I;  “ nothing,  however, 
can  be  done  in  Madrid.  I cannot  sell  the  work  at  the 
despacho,  and  I have  just  received  intelligence  that  all 
the  copies  exposed  for  sale  in  the  libraries  in  the  different 
parts  of  Spain  which  I visited,  have  been  sequestrated  by 
order  of  the  government.  My  resolution  is  taken:  I shall 
mount  my  horses,  which  are  neighing  in  the  stable,  and 
betake  myself  to  the  villages  and  plains  of  dusty  Spain. 
Al  carnpo,  al  campo  : ‘ Ride  forth  because  of  the  word  of 
righteousness,  and  thy  right  hand  shall  show  thee  terrible 
things.'  I will  ride  forth,  Maria.” 

“ Your  worship  can  do  no  better;  and  allow  me  here 
to  tell  you,  that  for  every  single  book  you  might  sell  in 
a despacho  in  the  city,  you  may  dispose  of  one  hundred 
amongst  the  villages,  always  provided  you  offer  them 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


377 


cheap:  for  in  the  country  money  is  rather  scant.  Vaya! 
should  I not  know?  am  I not  a villager  myself,  a villana 
from  the  Sagra?  Ride  forth,  therefore;  your  horses  are 
neighing  in  the  stall,  as  your  worship  says,  and  you  might 
almost  have  added  that  the  Senor  Antonio  is  neighing  in 
the  house.  He  says  he  has  nothing  to  do,  on  which  account 
he  is  once  more  dissatisfied  and  unsettled.  He  finds  fault 
with  everything,  but  more  particularly  with  myself.  This 
morning  I saluted  him,  and  he  made  me  no  reply,  but 
twisted  his  mouth  in  a manner  very  uncommon  in  this 
land  of  Spain.” 

“ A thought  strikes  me,”  said  I;  “ you  have  mentioned 
the  Sagra;  why  should  not  I commence  my  labours  amongst 
the  villages  of  that  district?  ” 

“ Your  worship  can  do  no  better,”  replied  Maria; 
“ the  harvest  is  just  over  there,  and  you  will  find  the 
people  comparatively  unemployed,  with  leisure  to  attend 
and  listen  to  you;  and  if  you  follow  my  advice,  you  will 
establish  yourself  at  Villa  Seca,  in  the  house  of  my  fathers, 
where  at  present  lives  my  lord  and  husband.  Go,  therefore, 
to  Villa  Seca  in  the  first  place,  and  from  thence  you  can 
sally  forth  with  the  Senor  Antonio  upon  your  excursions. 
Peradventure,  my  husband  will  accompany  you;  and  if 
so,  you  will  find  him  highly  useful.  The  people  of  Villa 
Seca  are  civil  and  courteous,  your  worship;  when  they 
address  a foreigner  they  speak  to  him  at  the  top  of  their 
voice  and  in  Gallegan.” 

“ In  Gallegan!  ” I exclaimed. 

“ They  all  understand  a few  words  of  Gallegan,  which 
they  have  acquired  from  the  mountaineers,  who  occasion- 
ally assist  them  in  cutting  the  harvest,  and  as  Gallegan 
is  the  only  foreign  language  they  know,  they  deem  it  but 
polite  to  address  a foreigner  in  that  tongue.  Vaya!  it  is 
not  a bad  village,  that  of  Villa  Seca,  nor  are  the  people; 
the  only  ill-conditioned  person  living  there  is  his  reverence 
the  curate.” 

I was  not  long  in  making  preparations  for  my  enter- 
prise, A considerable  stock  of  Testaments  were  sent 
forward  by  an  arriero,  I myself  followed  the  next  day. 
Before  my  departure,  however,  I received  a visit  from 
Benedict  Mol. 

“ I am  come  to  bid  you  farewell,  lieber  herr;  to-morrow 
I return  to  Gomposteila.” 

“ On  what  errand?  ” 

“ To  dig  up  the  schatz,  lieber  herr.  For  what  else 
should  I go?  For  what  have  I lived  until  now,  but  that 
I may  dig  up  the  schatz  in  the  end?  ” 

" You  might  have  lived  for  something  better,”  I ex- 


378 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


claimed.  “ I wish  you  success,  however.  But  on  what 
grounds  do  you  hope?  Have  you  obtained  permission 
to  dig?  Surely  you  remember  your  former  trials  in 
Galicia?  ” 

“ I have  not  forgotten  them,  lieber  herr,  nor  the  journey 
to  Oviedo,  nor  ‘ the  seven  acorns,'  nor  the  fight  with 
death  in  the  barranco.  But  I must  accomplish  my  destiny. 
I go  now  to  Galicia,  as  is  becoming  a Swiss,  at  the  expense 
of  the  government,  with  coach  and  mule,  I mean  in  the 
galera.  I am  to  have  all  the  help  I require,  so  that  I can 
dig  down  to  the  earth's  centre  if  I think  fit.  I — but  I 
must  not  tell  your  worship,  for  I am  sworn  on  ' the  four 
Evangiles  ' not  to  tell." 

“ Well,  Benedict,  I have  nothing  to  say,  save  that 
I hope  you  will  succeed  in  your  digging." 

“ Thank  you,  lieber  herr,  thank  you;  and  now  farewell. 
Succeed!  I shall  succeed!  " Here  he  stopped  short, 
started,  and  looking  upon  me  with  an  expression  of  counten- 
ance almost  wild,  he  exclaimed:  “ Heiliger  Gott!  I forgot 
one  thing.  Suppose  I should  not  find  the  treasure  after 
all." 

“ Very  rationally  said;  pity,  though,  that  you  did  not 
think  of  that  contingency  till  now.  I tell  you,  my  friend, 
that  you  have  engaged  in  a most  desperate  undertaking. 
It  is  true  that  you  may  find  a treasure.  The  chances  are, 
however,  a hundred  to  one  that  you  do  not,  and  in  that 
event,  what  will  be  your  situation?  You  will  be  looked 
upon  as  an  impostor,  and  the  consequences  may  be  horrible 
to  you.  Remember  where  you  are,  and  amongst  whom 
you  are.  The  Spaniards  are  a credulous  people,  but  let 
them  once  suspect  that  they  have  been  imposed  upon, 
and  above  all  laughed  at,  and  their  thirst  for  vengeance 
knows  no  limit.  Think  not  that  your  innocence  will  avail 
you.  That  you  are  no  impostor  I feel  convinced;  but 
they  would  never  believe  it.  It  is  not  too  late.  Return 
your  fine  clothes  and  magic  rattan  to  those  from  whom 
you  had  them.  Put  on  your  old  garments,  grasp  your 
ragged  staff,  and  come  with  me  to  the  Sagra,  to  assist  in 
circulating  the  illustrious  Gospel  amongst  the  rustics  on 
the  Tagus'  bank." 

Benedict  mused  for  a moment,  then  shaking  his  head, 
he  cried,  “ No,  no,  I must  accomplish  my  destiny.  The 
schatz  is  not  yet  dug  up.  So  said  the  voice  in  the  bar- 
ranco. To-morrow  to  Compostella.  I shall  find  it? — the 
schatz — it  is  still  there — it  must  be  there/' 

He  went,  and  I never  saw  him  more.  What  I heard, 
however,  was  extraordinary  enough.  It  appeared  that 
the  government  had  listened  to  his  tale,  and  had  been 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


379 


so  struck  with  Bennet’s  exaggerated  description  of  the 
buried  treasure,  that  they  imagined  that,  by  a little  trouble 
and  outlay,  gold  and  diamonds  might  be  dug  up  at  Saint 
James  sufficient  to  enrich  themselves  and  to  pay  off  the 
national  debt  of  Spain.  The  Swiss  returned  to  Compostella 
“ like  a duke,”  to  use  his  own  words.  The  affair,  which 
had  at  first  been  kept  a profound  secret,  was  speedily 
divulged.  It  was,  indeed,  resolved  that  the  investigation, 
which  involved  consequences  of  so  much  importance, 
should  take  place  in  a manner  the  most  public  and  imposing. 
A solemn  festival  was  drawing  nigh,  and  it  was  deemed 
expedient  that  the  search  should  take  place  on  that  day. 
The  day  arrived.  All  the  bells  in  Compostella  pealed. 
The  whole  populace  thronged  from  their  houses,  a thousand 
troops  were  drawn  up  in  the  square,  the  expectation  of 
all  was  wound  up  to  the  highest  pitch.  A procession 
directed  its  course  to  the  church  of  San  Roque;  at  its 
head  was  the  captain-general  and  the  Swiss,  brandishing 
in  his  hand  the  magic  rattan,  close  behind  walked  the 
meiga,  the  Gallegan  witch-wife,  by  whom  the  treasure- 
seeker  had  been  originally  guided  in  the  search;  numerous 
masons  brought  up  the  rear,  bearing  implements  to  break 
up  the  ground.  The  procession  enters  the  church,  they 
pass  through  it  in  solemn  march,  they  find  themselves  in 
a vaulted  passage.  The  Swiss  looks  around.  “ Dig  here,” 
said  he  suddenly.  “ Yes,  dig  here,”  said  the  meiga.  The 
masons  labour,  the  floor  is  broken  up, — a horrible  and 
fetid  odour  arises 

Enough;  no  treasure  was  found,  and  my  warning  to 
the  unfortunate  Swiss  turned  out  but  too  prophetic.  He 
was  forthwith  seized  and  flung  into  the  horrid  prison 
of  Saint  James,  amidst  the  execrations  of  thousands,  who 
would  have  gladly  torn  him  limb  from  limb. 

The  affair  did  not  terminate  here.  The  political 
opponents  of  the  government  did  not  allow  so  favourable 
an  opportunity  to  escape  for  launching  the  shafts  of  ridicule. 
The  Moderados  were  taunted  in  the  cortes  for  their  avarice 
and  credulity,  whilst  the  liberal  press  wafted  on  its  wings 
through  Spain  the  story  of  the  treasure-hunt  at  Saint  James. 

“ After  all,  it  was  a trampa  of  Don  Jorge's,”  said  one 
of  my  enemies.  “ That  fellow  is  at  the  bottom  of  half 
the  picardias  which  happen  in  Spain.” 

Eager  to  learn  the  fate  of  the  Swiss,  I wrote  to  my 
old  friend  Rey  Romero,  at  Compostella.  In  his  answer 
he  states:  “ I saw  the  Swiss  in  prison,  to  which  place 

he  sent  for  me,  craving  my  assistance,  for  the  sake  of  the 
friendship  which  I bore  to  you.  But  how  could  I help 
him?  He  was  speedily  after  removed  from  Saint  James, 


380  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

I know  not  whither.  It  is  said  that  he  disappeared  on  the 
road.” 

Truth  is  sometimes  stranger  than  fiction.  Where  in 
the  whole  cycle  of  romance  shall  we  find  anything  more 
wild,  grotesque,  and  sad,  than  the  easily-authenticated 
history  of  Benedict  Mol,  the  treasure-digger  of  Saint 
James? 


CHAPTER  XL  III 

Villa  Seca  — Moorish  House  — The  Puchera  — The  Rustic  Council — 
Polite  Ceremonial — The  Flower  of  Spain — The  Bridge  of  Azeca — 
The  Ruined  Castle — Taking  the  Field — Demand  for  the  Word — The 
Old  Peasant  — The  Curate  and  Blacksmith  — Cheapness  of  the 
Scriptures. 

It  was  one  of  the  most  fiercely  hot  days  in  which  I ever 
braved  the  sun,  when  I arrived  at  Villa  Seca.  The  heat  in 
the  shade  must  have  amounted  at  least  to  one  hundred 
degrees,  and  the  entire  atmosphere  seemed  to  consist  of 
flickering  flame.  At  a place  called  Leganez,  six  leagues  from 
Madrid,  and  about  half  way  to  Toledo,  we  diverged  from  the 
highway,  bending  our  course  seemingly  towards  the  south- 
east. We  rode  over  what  are  called  plains  in  Spain,  but 
which,  in  any  other  part  of  the  world,  would  be  called  un- 
dulating and  broken  ground.  The  crops  of  corn  and  barley 
had  already  disappeared.  The  last  vestiges  discoverable 
being  here  and  there  a few  sheaves,  which  the  labourers 
were  occupied  in  removing  to  their  garners  in  the  villages. 
The  country  could  scarcely  be  called  beautiful,  being 
perfectly  naked,  exhibiting  neither  trees  nor  verdure. 
It  was  not,  however,  without  its  pretensions  to  grandeur 
and  magnificence,  like  every  part  of  Spain.  The  most 
prominent  objects  were  two  huge  calcareous  hills  or  rather 
one  cleft  in  twain,  which  towered  up  on  high;  the  summit 
of  the  nearest  being  surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
castle,  that  of  Villaluenga.  About  an  hour  past  noon  we 
reached  Villa  Seca. 

We  found  it  a large  village,  containing  about  seven 
hundred  inhabitants,  and  surrounded  by  a mud  wall.  A 
plaza,  or  market-place,  stood  in  the  midst,  one  side  of  which 
is  occupied  by  what  is  called  a palace,  a clumsy  quadrangular 
building  of  two  stories,  belonging  to  some  noble  family, 
the  lords  of  the  neighbouring  soil.  It  was  deserted,  however, 
being  only  occupied  by  a kind  of  steward,  who  stored  up  in 
its  chambers  the  grain  which  he  received  as  rent  from  the 
tenants  and  villanos  who  farmed  the  surrounding  district. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


381 


The  village  stands  at  the  distance  of  about  a quarter 
of  a league  from  the  bank  of  the  Tagus,  which  even  here,  in 
the  heart  of  Spain,  is  a beautiful  stream,  not  navigable, 
however,  on  account  of  the  sand-banks,  which  in  many 
places  assume  the  appearance  of  small  islands,  and  are 
covered  with  trees  and  brushwood.  The  village  derives  its 
supply  of  water  entirely  from  the  river,  having  none  of  its 
own;  such  at  least  as  is  potable,  the  water  of  its  wells 
being  all  brackish,  on  which  account  it  is  probably  termed 
Villa  Seca,  which  signifies  “ the  dry  hamlet.”  The  in- 
habitants are  said  to  have  been  originally  Moors;  certain 
it  is,  that  various  customs  are  observable  here  highly  favour- 
able to  such  a supposition.  Amongst  others,  a very  curious 
one;  it  is  deemed  infamous  for  a woman  of  Villa  Seca  to  go 
across  the  market-place,  or  to  be  seen  there,  though  they 
have  no  hesitation  in  showing  themselves  in  the  streets  and 
lanes.  A deep-rooted  hostility  exists  between  the  inhabitants 
of  this  place  and  those  of  a neighbouring  village,  called 
Vargas;  they  rarely  speak  when  they  meet,  and  never  inter- 
marry. There  is  a vague  tradition  that  the  people  of  the 
latter  place  are  old  Christians,  and  it  is  highly  probable  that 
these  neighbours  were  originally  of  widely  different  blood; 
those  of  Villa  Seca  being  of  particularly  dark  complexions, 
whilst  the  indwellers  of  Vargas  are  light  and  fair.  Thus  the 
old  feud  between  Moor  and  Christian  is  still  kept  up  in  the 
nineteenth  century  in  Spain. 

Drenched  in  perspiration,  which  fell  from  our  brows 
like  rain,  we  arrived  at  the  door  of  Juan  Lopez,  the  husband 
of  Maria  Diaz.  Having  heard  of  our  intention  to  pay  him 
a visit,  he  was  expecting  us,  and  cordially  welcomed  us  to 
his  habitation,  which,  like  a genuine  Moorish  house,  con- 
sisted only  of  one  story.  It  was  amply  large,  however, 
with  a court  and  stable.  All  the  apartments  were  deliciously 
cool.  The  floors  were  of  brick  or  stone,  and  the  narrow 
and  trellised  windows,  which  were  without  glass,  scarcely 
permitted  a ray  of  sun  to  penetrate  into  the  interior. 

A puchera  had  been  prepared  in  expectation  of  our 
arrival;  the  heat  had  not  taken  away  my  appetite,  and  it 
was  not  long  before  I did  full  justice  to  this  the  standard 
dish  of  Spain.  Whilst  I ate,  Lopez  played  upon  the  guitar, 
singing  occasionally  snatches  of  Andalusian  songs.  He  was 
a short,  merry-faced,  active  fellow,  whom  I had  frequently 
seen  at  Madrid,  and  was  a good  specimen  of  the  Spanish 
labrador  or  yeoman.  Though  far  from  possessing  the  ability 
and  intellect  of  his  wife,  Maria  Diaz,  he  was  by  no  means 
deficient  in  shrewdness  and  understanding.  He  was, 
moreover,  honest  and  disinterested,  and  performed  good 
service  in  the  Gospel  cause,  as  will  presently  appear. 


382 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


When  the  repast  was  concluded,  Lopez  thus  addressed 
me: — “ Senor  Don  Jorge,  your  arrival  in  our  village  has 
already  caused  a sensation,  more  especially  as  these  are 
times  of  war  and  tumult,  and  every  person  is  afraid  of 
another,  and  we  dwell  here  close  on  the  confines  of  the 
factious  country ; for,  as  you  well  know,  the  greater  part  of 
La  Mancha  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Carlinos  and  thieves, 
parties  of  whom  frequently  show  themselves  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river:  on  which  account  the  alcalde  of  this  city, 
with  the  other  grave  and  notable  people  thereof,  are  desirous 
of  seeing  your  worship,  and  conversing  with  you,  and  of 
examining  your  passport.”  “ It  is  well,”  said  I;  “ let  us 
forthwith  pay  a visit  to  these  worthy  people.”  Whereupon 
he  conducted  me  across  the  plaza,  to  the  house  of  the  alcalde, 
where  I found  the  rustic  dignitary  seated  in  the  passage, 
enjoying  the  refreshing  coolness  of  a draught  of  air  which 
rushed  through.  He  was  an  elderly  man,  of  about  sixty, 
with  nothing  remarkable  in  his  appearance  or  his  features, 
which  latter  were  placid  and  good-humoured.  There  were 
several  people  with  him,  amongst  whom  was  the  surgeon  of 
the  place,  a tall  and  immensely  bulky  man,  an  Alavese 
by  birth,  from  the  town  of  Vitoria.  There  was  also  a red 
fiery-faced  individual,  with  a nose  very  much  turned  on  one 
side,  who  was  the  blacksmith  of  the  village,  and  was  called 
in  general  El  Tuerto,  from  the  circumstance  of  his  having 
but  one  eye.  Making  the  assembly  a low  bow,  I pulled  out 
my  passport,  and  thus  addressed  them: — 

“ Grave  men  and  cavaliers  of  this  city  of  Villa  Seca, 
as  I am  a stranger,  of  whom  it  is  not  possible  that  you  should 
know  anything,  I have  deemed  it  my  duty  to  present  myself 
before  you,  and  to  tell  you  who  I am.  Know,  then,  that  I 
am  an  Englishman  of  good  blood  and  fathers,  travelling  in 
these  countries  for  my  own  profit  and  diversion,  and  for  that 
of  other  people  also.  I have  now  found  my  way  to  Villa 
Seca,  where  I propose  to  stay  some  time,  doing  that  which 
may  be  deemed  convenient;  sometimes  riding  across  the 
plain,  and  sometimes  bathing  myself  in  the  waters  of  the 
river,  which  are  reported  to  be  of  advantage  in  times  of  heat, 
I therefore  beg  that,  during  my  sojourn  in  this  capital, 
I may  enjoy  such  countenance  and  protection  from  its 
governors  as  they  are  in  the  habit  of  affording  to  those  who 
are  of  quiet  and  well-ordered  life,  and  are  disposed  to  be 
buxom  and  obedient  to  the  customs  and  laws  of  the  republic.” 

“ He  speaks  well,”  said  the  alcalde,  glancing  around. 

“ Yes,  he  speaks  well,”  said  the  bulky  Alavese;  “ there 
is  no  denying  it.” 

“ I never  heard  any  one  speak  better,”  cried  the  black- 
smith, starting  up  from  a stool  on  which  he  was  seated. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


383 


“ Vaya ! he  is  a big  man  and  a fair  complexioned  like  myself. 
I like  him,  and  have  a horse  that  will  just  suit  him;  one 
that  is  the  flower  of  Spain,  and  is  eight  inches  above  the 
mark.” 

I then,  with  another  bow,  presented  my  passport  to  the 
alcalde,  who,  with  a gentle  motion  of  his  hand,  appeared  to 
decline  taking  it,  at  the  same  time  saying,  “ It  is  not  neces- 
sary.” “ Oh,  not  at  all,”  exclaimed  the  surgeon.  “ The 
housekeepers  of  Villa  Seca  know  how  to  comport  themselves 
with  formality,”  observed  the  blacksmith.  “ They  would 
be  very  loth  to  harbour  any  suspicion  against  a cavalier 
so  courteous  and  well  spoken,”  Knowing,  however,  that 
this  refusal  amounted  to  nothing,  and  that  it  merely  formed 
part  of  a polite  ceremonial,  I proffered  the  passport  a second 
time,  whereupon  it  was  instantly  taken,  and  in  a moment  the 
eyes  of  all  present  were  bent  upon  it  with  intense  curiosity. 
It  was  examined  from  top  to  bottom,  and  turned  round 
repeatedly,  and  though  it  is  not  probable  that  an  individual 
present  understood  a word  of  it,  it  being  written  in  French, 
it  gave  nevertheless  universal  satisfaction;  and  when  the 
alcalde,  carefully  folding  it  up,  returned  it  to  me,  they  all 
observed  that  they  had  never  seen  a better  passport  in  their 
lives,  or  one  which  spake  in  higher  terms  of  the  bearer. 

Who  was  it  said  that  “ Cervantes  sneered  Spain’s 
chivalry  away?  ” I know  not;  and  the  author  of  such  a 
line  scarcely  deserves  to  be  remembered.  How  the  rage 
for  scribbling  tempts  people  at  the  present  day  to  write 
about  lands  and  nations  of  which  they  know  nothing,  or 
worse  than  nothing.  Vaya!  It  is  not  from  having  seen  a 
bull-fight  at  Seville  or  Madrid,  or  having  spent  a handful 
of  ounces  at  a posada  in  either  of  those  places,  kept  perhaps 
by  a Genoese  or  a Frenchman,  that  you  are  competent  to 
write  about  such  a people  as  the  Spaniards,  and  to  tell  the 
world  how  they  think,  how  they  speak,  and  how  they  act! 
Spain’s  chivalry  sneered  away!  Why,  there  is  every 
probability  that  the  great  body  of  the  Spanish  nation  speak, 
think,  and  live  precisely  as  their  forefathers  did  six  centuries 
ago. 

In  the  evening  the  blacksmith,  or,  as  he  would  be  called 
in  Spanish,  El  Herrador,  made  his  appearance  at  the  door 
of  Lopez  on  horseback.  “ Vamos,  Don  Jorge,”  he  shouted. 
“ Come  with  me,  if  your  worship  is  disposed  for  a ride. 
I am  going  to  bathe  my  horse  in  the  Tagus  by  the  bridge 
of  Azeca.”  I instantly  saddled  my  jaca  Cordovesa,  and 
joining  him,  we  rode  out  of  the  village,  directing  our  course 
across  the  plain  towards  the  river.  “ Did  you  ever  see  such 
a horse  as  this  of  mine,  Don  Jorge?  ” he  demanded.  “ Is 
he  not  a jewel — an  alaja?  ” And  in  truth  the  horse  was  a 


384 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


noble  and  gallant  creature,  in  height  at  least  sixteen  hands, 
broad-chested,  but  of  clean  and  elegant  limbs.  His  neck 
was  superbly  arched,  and  his  head  towered  on  high  like  that 
of  a swan.  In  colour  he  was  a bright  chestnut,  save  his 
llowing  mane  and  tail,  which  were  almost  black.  I ex- 
pressed my  admiration,  whereupon  the  herrador,  in  high 
spirits,  pressed  his  heels  to  the  creature's  sides,  and  flinging 
the  bridle  on  its  neck,  speeded  over  the  plain  with  prodigious 
swiftness,  shouting  the  old  Spanish  cry,  Gierra ! I attempted 
to  keep  up  with  him,  but  had  not  a chance.  “ I call  him  the 
flower  of  Spain,"  said  the  herrador,  rejoining  me.  “ Pur- 
chase him,  Don  Jorge,  his  price  is  but  three  thousand  reals.* 
I would  not  sell  him  for  double  that  sum,  but  the  Garlist 
thieves  have  their  eyes  upon  him,  and  I am  apprehensive 
that  they  will  some  day  make  a dash  across  the  river  and 
break  into  Villa  Seca,  all  to  get  possession  of  my  horse,  ‘ The 
Flower  of  Spain.'  " 

It  may  be  as  well  to  observe  here,  that  within  a month 
from  this  period,  my  friend  the  herrador,  not  being  able 
to  find  a regular  purchaser  for  his  steed,  entered  into  negotia- 
tions with  the  aforesaid  thieves  respecting  him,  and  finally 
disposed  of  the  animal  to  their  leader,  receiving  not  the 
three  thousand  reals  he  demanded,  but  an  entire  herd  of 
horned  cattle,  probably  driven  from  the  plains  of  La  Mancha. 
For  this  transaction,  which  was  neither  more  nor  less  than 
high  treason,  he  was  cast  into  the  prison  of  Toledo,  where, 
however,  he  did  not  continue  long;  for  during  a short  visit 
to  Villa  Seca,  which  I made  in  the  spring  of  the  following 
year,  I found  him  alcalde  of  that  “ republic." 

We  arrived  at  the  bridge  of  Azeca,  which  is  about  half  a 
league  from  Villa  Seca;  close  beside  it  is  a large  water-mill, 
standing  upon  a dam  which  crosses  the  river.  Dismounting 
from  his  steed,  the  herrador  proceeded  to  divest  it  of  the 
saddle,  then  causing  it  to  enter  the  mill-pool,  he  led  it  by 
means  of  a cord  to  a particular  spot,  where  the  water  reached 
half  way  up  its  neck,  then  fastening  a cord  to  a post  on  the 
bank,  he  left  the  animal  standing  in  the  pool.  I thought 
I could  do  no  better  than  follow  his  example,  and  accordingly 
procuring  a rope  from  the  mill,  I led  my  own  horse  into  the 
water.  “'It  will  refresh  their  blood,  Don  Jorge,"  said  the 
herrador;  “ let  us  leave  them  there  for  an  hour,  whilst 
we  go  and  divert  ourselves." 

Near  the  bridge,  on  the  side  of  the  river  on  which  we 
were,  was  a kind  of  guard-house,  where  were  three  carbineers 
of  the  revenue,  who  collected  the  tolls  of  the  bridge;  we 
entered  into  conversation  with  them:  “ Is  not  this  a danger- 
ous position  of  yours,"  said  I to  one  of  them,  who  was  a 
* About  thirty  pounds. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


385 


Catalan;  “ close  beside  the  factious  country?  Surely  it 
would  not  be  difficult  for  a body  of  the  Carlinos  or  bandits 
to  dash  across  the  bridge  and  make  prisoners  of  you  all.” 

“ It  would  be  easy  enough  at  any  moment,  Cavalier,” 
replied  the  Catalan ; “ we  are,  however,  all  in  the  hands  of 
God,  and  he  has  preserved  us  hitherto,  and  perhaps  still 
will.  True  it  is  that  one  of  our  number,  for  there  were  four 
of  us  originally,  fell  the  other  day  into  the  hands  of  the 
canaille:  he  had  wandered  across  the  bridge  amongst  the 
thickets  with  his  gun  in  search  of  a hare  or  rabbit,  when 
three  or  four  of  them  fell  upon  him  and  put  him  to  death 
in  a manner  too  horrible  to  relate.  But  patience!  every 
man  who  lives  must  die.  I shall  not  sleep  the  worse  to- 
night because  I may  chance  to  be  hacked  by  the  knives  of 
these  malvados  to-morrow.  Cavalier,  I am  from  Barcelona, 
and  have  seen  there  mariners  of  your  nation;  this  is  not  so 
good  a country  as  Barcelona.  Paciencia!  Cavalier,  if  you 
will  step  into  our  houses  I will  give  you  a glass  of  water; 
we  have  some  that  is  cool,  for  we  dug  a deep  hole  in  the 
earth  and  buried  there  our  pitcher;  it  is  cool,  as  I told  you, 
but  the  water  of  Castile  is  not  like  that  of  Catalonia.” 

The  moon  had  arisen  when  we  mounted  our  horses  to 
return  to  the  village,  and  th$  rays  of  the  beauteous  luminary 
danced  merrily  on  the  rushing  waters  of  the  Tagus,  silvered 
the  plain  over  which  we  were  passing,  and  bathed  in  a flood 
of  brightness  the  bold  sides  of  the  calcareous  hill  of  Villa- 
luenga  and  the  antique  ruins  which  crowned  its  brow. 
“ Why  is  that  place  called  the  Castle  of  Villaluenga?  ” I 
demanded. 

“ From  a village  of  that  name,  which  stands  on  the  other 
side  of  the  hill,  Don  Jorge,”  replied  the  herrador.  “ Vaya! 
it  is  a strange  place,  that  castle;  some  say  it  was  built  by  the 
Moors  in  the  old  times,  and  some  by  the  Christians  when  they 
first  laid  siege  to  Toledo.  It  is  not  inhabited  now,  save  by 
rabbits,  which  breed  there  in  abundance  amongst  the  long 
grass  and  broken  stones,  and  by  eagles  and  vultures,  which 
build  on  the  tops  of  the  towers ; I occasionally  go  there  with 
my  gun  to  shoot  a rabbit.  On  a fine  day  you  may  descry 
both  Toledo  and  Madrid  from  its  walls.  I cannot  say  I like 
the  place,  it  is  so  dreary  and  melancholy.  The  hill  on 
which  it  stands  is  all  of  chalk,  and  is  very  difficult  of  ascent. 
I heard  my  grandame  say  that  once,  when  she  was  a girl, 
a cloud  of  smoke  burst  from  that  hill,  and  that  flames  of  fire 
were  seen,  just  as  if  it  contained  a volcano,  as  perhaps  it 
does,  Don  Jorge.” 

The  grand  work  of  Scripture  circulation  soon  commenced 
in  the  Sagra.  Notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  weather, 
I rode  about  in  all  directions.  It  was  well  that  heat  agrees 
33— n 


386 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


with  my  constitution,  otherwise  it  would  have  been  im- 
possible to  effect  anything  in  this  season,  when  the  very 
arrieros  frequently  fail  dead  from  their  mules,  smitten  by  a 
sun-stroke.  I had  an  excellent  assistant  in  Antonio,  who, 
disregarding  the  heat  like  myself,  and  afraid  of  nothing, 
visited  several  villages  with  remarkable  success.  “ Mon 
maitre,”  said  he,  “ I wish  to  show  you  that  nothing  is  beyond 
my  capacity.”  But  he  who  put  the  labours  of  us  both  to 
shame,  was  my  host,  Juan  Lopez,  whom  it  had  pleased  the 
Lord  to  render  favourable  to  the  cause.  “ Don  Jorge,” 
said  he,  “ io  quiero  engancharme  con  listed  (I  wish  to  enlist 
with  you);  I am  a liberal,  and  a foe  to  superstition;  I will 
take  the  field,  and,  if  necessary,  will  follow  you  to  the  end  of 
the  world;  Viva  Ingalaterra ; viva  el  Evangelio”  Thus 
saying,  he  put  a large  bundle  of  Testaments  into  a satchel, 
and  springing  upon  the  crupper  of  his  grey  donkey,  he  cried 
“ Arrhe  burra ,”  and  hastened  away.  I sat  down  to  my 
journal. 

Ere  I had  finished  writing,  I heard  the  voice  of  the 
burra  in  the  courtyard,  and  going  out,  I found  my  host 
returned.  He  had  disposed  of  his  whole  cargo  of  twenty 
Testaments  at  the  village  of  Vargas,  distant  from  Villa 
Seca  about  a league.  Eight  poor  harvest  men,  who  were 
refreshing  themselves  at  the  door  of  a wine-house,  purchased 
each  a copy,  whilst  the  village  schoolmaster  secured  the 
rest  for  the  little  ones  beneath  his  care,  lamenting,  at  the 
same  time,  the  great  difficulty  he  had  long  experienced 
in  obtaining  religious  books,  owing  to  their  scarcity  and 
extravagant  price.  Many  other  persons  were  also  anxious 
to  purchase  Testaments,  but  Lopez  was  unable  to  supply 
them:  at  his  departure,  they  requested  him  to  return  within 
a few  days. 

I was  aware  that  I was  playing  rather  a daring  game, 
and  that  it  was  very  possible  that,  when  I least  expected 
it,  I might  be  seized,  tied  to  the  tail  of  a mule,  and  dragged 
either  to  the  prison  of  Toledo  or  Madrid.  Yet  such  a 
prospect  did  not  discourage  me  in  the  least,  but  rather 
urged  me  to  persevere;  for  at  this  time,  without  the  slightest 
wish  to  gratify  myself,  I could  say  that  I was  eager  to  lay 
down  my  life  for  the  cause,  and  whether  a bandit's  bullet, 
or  the  gaol  fever  brought  my  career  to  a close,  was  a matter 
of  indifference  to  me;  I was  not  then  a stricken  man: 
" Ride  on  because  of  the  word  of  righteousness,”  was  my 
cry. 

The  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  book  of  life  soon  spread 
like  wildfire  through  the  villages  of  the  Sagra  of  Toledo, 
and  wherever  my  people  and  myself  directed  our  course 
we  found  the  inhabitants  disposed  to  receive  our  mer- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


387 


chandize;  it  was  even  called  for  where  not  exhibited.  One 
night  as  I was  bathing  myself  and  horse  in  the  Tagus,  a 
knot  of  people  gathered  on  the  bank,  crying,  “ Gome  out 
of  the  water,  Englishman,  and  give  us  books;  we  have 
got  our  money  in  our  hands.”  The  poor  creatures  then 
held  out  their  hands,  filled  with  cuartos,  a copper  coin 
of  the  value  of  the  farthing,  but  unfortunately  I had  no 
Testaments  to  give  them.  Antonio,  however,  who  was  at 
a short  distance,  having  exhibited  one,  it  was  instantly  torn 
from  his  hands  by  the  people,  and  a scuffle  ensued  to  obtain 
possession  of  it.  It  very  frequently  occurred,  that  the  poor 
labourers  in  the  neighbourhood,  being  eager  to  obtain 
Testaments,  and  having  no  money  to  offer  us  in  exchange, 
brought  various  articles  to  our  habitation  as  equivalents; 
for  example,  rabbits,  fruit  and  barley,  and  I made  a point 
never  to  disappoint  them,  as  such  articles  were  of  utility 
either  for  our  own  consumption  or  that  of  the  horses. 

In  Villa  Seca  there  was  a school  in  which  fifty-seven 
children  were  taught  the  first  rudiments  of  education. 
One  morning  the  schoolmaster,  a tall  slim  figure  of  about 
sixty,  bearing  on  his  head  one  of  the  peaked  hats  of 
Andalusia,  and  wrapped,  notwithstanding  the  excessive 
heat  of  the  weather,  in  a long  cloak,  made  his  appearance, 
and  having  seated  himself,  requested  to  be  shown  one 
of  our  books.  Having  delivered  it  to  him,  he  remained 
examining  it  for  nearly  half  an  hour,  without  uttering  a 
word.  At  last  he  laid  it  down  with  a sigh,  and  said  that 
he  should  be  very  happy  to  purchase  some  of  these  books 
for  his  school,  but  from  their  appearance,  especially  from 
the  quality  of  the  paper  and  binding,  he  was  apprehensive 
that  to  pay  for  them  would  exceed  the  means  of  the  parents 
of  his  pupils,  as  they  were  almost  destitute  of  money, 
being  poor  labourers.  He  then  commenced  blaming  the 
government,  which  he  said  established  schools  without 
affording  the  necessary  books,  adding  that  in  his  school 
there  were  but  two  books  for  the  use  of  all  his  pupils,  and 
these  he  confessed  contained  but  little  good.  I asked 
him  what  he  considered  the  Testaments  were  worth?  He 
said,  “ Sehor  Cavalier,  to  speak  frankly,  I have  in  other 
times  paid  twelve  reals  for  books  inferior  to  yours  in  every 
respect,  but  I assure  you  that  my  poor  pupils  would  be 
utterly  unable  to  pay  the  half  of  that  sum.’'  I replied, 
“ I will  sell  you  as  many  as  you  please  for  three  reals  each. 
I am  acquainted  with  the  poverty  of  the  land,  and  my 
friends  and  myself,  in  affording  the  people  the  means  of 
spiritual  instruction  have  no  wish  to  curtail  their  scanty 
bread.”  He  replied:  “ Bendito  sea  Dios,”  ( blessed  be  God,) 
and  could  scarcely  believe  his  ears.  He  instantly  purchased 


388 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a dozen,  expending,  as  he  said,  all  the  money  he  possessed, 
with  the  exception  of  a few  cuartos.  The  introduction  of 
the  word  of  God  into  the  country  schools  of  Spain  is  there- 
fore begun,  and  I humbly  hope  that  it  will  prove  one  of 
those  events,  which  the  Bible  Society,  after  the  lapse  of 
years,  will  have  most  reason  to  remember  with  joy  and 
gratitude  to  the  Almighty. 

An  old  peasant  is  reading  in  the  portico.  Eighty-four 
years  have  passed  over  his  head,  and  he  is  almost  entirely 
deaf;  nevertheless  he  is  reading  aloud  the  second  of 
Matthew:  three  days  since  he  bespoke  a Testament,  but 
not  being  able  to  raise  the  money,  he  has  not  redeemed 
it  until  the  present  moment.  He  has  just  brought  thirty 
farthings;  as  I survey  the  silvery  hair  which  overshadows 
his  sunburnt  countenance,  the  words  of  the  song  occurred 
to  me,  “ Lord,  now  lettest  thou  thy  servant  depart  in  peace 
according  to  thy  word,  for  mine  eyes  have  seen  thy  salva- 
tion. 

I experienced  much  grave  kindness  and  simple  hos- 
pitality from  the  good  people  of  Villa  Seca  during  my 
sojourn  amongst  them.  I had  at  this  time  so  won  their 
hearts  by  the  “ formality  ” of  my  behaviour  and  language, 
that  I firmly  believe  they  would  have  resisted  to  the  knife 
any  attempt  which  might  have  been  made  to  arrest  or 
otherwise  maltreat  me.  He  who  wishes  to  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  genuine  Spaniard,  must  seek  him  not 
in  sea-ports  and  large  towns,  but  in  lone  and  remote  villages, 
like  those  of  the  Sagra.  There  he  will  find  all  that  gravity 
of  deportment  and  chivalry  of  disposition  which  Cervantes 
is  said  to  have  sneered  away;  and  there  he  will  hear,  in 
everyday  conversation,  those  grandiose  expressions,  which, 
when  met  with  in  the  romances  of  chivalry,  are  scoffed  at 
as  ridiculous  exaggerations. 

I had  one  enemy  in  the  village — it  was  the  curate. 

“ The  fellow  is  a heretic  and  a scoundrel,”  said  he 
one  day  in  the  conclave.  “ He  never  enters  the  church, 
and  is  poisoning  the  minds  of  the  people  with  his  Lutheran 
books.  Let  him  be  bound  and  sent  to  Toledo,  or  turned 
out  of  the  village  at  least.” 

“ I will  have  nothing  of  the  kind,”  said  the  alcalde, 
who  was  said  to  be  a Carlist.  “ If  he  has  his  opinions, 
I have  mine  too.  He  has  conducted  himself  with  polite- 
ness. Why  should  I interfere  with  him?  He  has  been 
courteous  to  my  daughter,  and  has  presented  her  with  a 
volume.  Que  viva!  and  with  respect  to  his  being  a 
Lutheran,  I have  heard  say  that  amongst  the  Lutherans 
there  are  sons  of  as  good  fathers  as  here.  He  appears  to 
me  a caballero.  He  speaks  well.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


389 


“ There  is  no  denying  it,”  said  the  surgeon. 

“ Who  speaks  so  well?  ” shouted  the  herrador.  “ And 
who  has  more  formality?  Vaya!  did  he  not  praise  my 
horse,  ‘ The  Flower  of  Spain  ’?  Did  he  not  say  that  in 
the  whole  of  Ingalaterra  there  was  not  a better?  Did 
he  not  assure  me,  moreover,  that  if  he  were  to  remain 
in  Spain  he  would  purchase  it,  giving  me  my  own  price? 
Turn  him  out,  indeed!  Is  he  not  of  my  own  blood,  is  he 
not  fair-complexioned?  Who  shall  turn  him  out  when  I, 
‘ the  one-eyed,’  say  no?  ” 

In  connection  with  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures 
I will  now  relate  an  anecdote  not  altogether  divested 
of  singularity.  I have  already  spoken  of  the  water-mill 
by  the  bridge  of  Azeca.  I had  formed  acquaintance  with 
the  tenant  of  this  mill,  who  was  known  in  the  neighbour- 
hood by  the  name  of  Don  Antero.  One  day,  taking  me 
into  a retired  place,  he  asked  me,  to  my  great  astonishment, 
whether  I would  sell  him  a thousand  Testaments  at  the 
price  at  which  I was  disposing  of  them  to  the  peasantry; 
saying,  if  I would  consent  he  would  pay  me  immediately. 
In  fact,  he  put  his  hand  into  his  pocket,  and  pulled  it  out 
filled  with  gold  ounces.  I asked  him  what  was  his  reason 
for  wishing  to  make  so  considerable  a purchase.  Where- 
upon he  informed  me  that  he  had  a relation  in  Toledo 
whom  he  wished  to  establish,  and  that  he  was  of  opinion 
that  his  best  plan  would  be  to  hire  him  a shop  there  and 
furnish  it  with  Testaments.  I told  him  that  he  must  think 
of  nothing  of  the  kind,  as  probably  the  books  would  be  seized 
on  the  first  attempt  to  introduce  them  into  Toledo,  as  the 
priests  and  canons  were  much  averse  to  their  distribution. 

He  was  not  disconcerted,  however,  and  said  his  relation 
could  travel,  as  I myself  was  doing,  and  dispose  of  them 
to  the  peasants  with  profit  to  himself.  I confess  I was 
inclined  at  first  to  accept  his  offer,  but  at  length  declined 
it,  as  I did  not  wish  to  expose  a poor  man  to  the  risk  of 
losing  money,  goods,  and  perhaps  liberty  and  life.  I was 
likewise  averse  to  the  books  being  offered  to  the  peasantry 
at  an  advanced  price,  being  aware  that  they  could  not 
afford  it,  and  the  books,  by  such  an  attempt,  would  lose 
a considerable  part  of  that  influence  which  they  then 
enjoyed;  for  their  cheapness  struck  the  minds  of  the  people, 
and  they  considered  it  almost  as  much  in  the  light  of  a 
miracle  as  the  Jews  the  manna  which  dropped  from  heaven 
at  the  time  they  were  famishing,  or  the  spring  which 
suddenly  gushed  from  the  flinty  rocks  to  assuage  their 
thirst  in  the  wilderness. 

At  this  time  a peasant  was  continually  passing  and 
repassing  between  Villa  Seca  and  Madrid,  bringing  us 


390 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


cargoes  of  Testaments  on  a burrico.  We  continued  our 
labours  until  the  greater  part  of  the  villages  of  the  Sagra 
were  well  supplied  with  books,  more  especially  those  of 
Vargas,  Coveja,  Mocejon,  Villaluenga,  Villa  Seca,  and 
Yungler.  Hearing  at  last  that  our  proceedings  were  known 
at  Toledo,  and  were  causing  considerable  alarm,  we  returned 
to  Madrid. 


CHAPTER  XL  IV 

Aranjuez — A Warning — A Night  Adventure — A Fresh  Expedition — 
Segovia — Abades — Factious  Curas — Lopez  in  Prison — Rescue  of 
Lopez. 

The  success  which  had  attended  our  efforts  in  the  Sagra 
of  Toledo  speedily  urged  me  on  to  a new  enterprise.  I 
now  determined  to  direct  my  course  to  La  Mancha,  and  to 
distribute  the  word  amongst  the  villages  of  that  province. 
Lopez,  who  had  already  performed  such  important  services 
in  the  Sagra,  had  accompanied  us  to  Madrid,  and  was 
eager  to  take  part  in  this  new  expedition.  We  determined 
in  the  first  place  to  proceed  to  Aranjuez,  where  we  hoped 
to  obtain  some  information  which  might  prove  of  utility 
in  the  further  regulation  of  our  movements;  Aranjuez 
being  but  a slight  distance  from  the  frontier  of  La  Mancha, 
and  the  high  road  into  that  province  passing  directly 
through  it.  We  accordingly  sallied  forth  from  Madrid, 
selling  from  twenty  to  forty  Testaments  in  every  village 
which  lay  in  our  way,  until  we  arrived  at  Aranjuez, 
to  which  place  we  had  forwarded  a large  supply  of 
books. 

A lovely  spot  is  Aranjuez,  though  in  desolation:  here 
the  Tagus  flows  through  a delicious  valley,  perhaps  the 
most  fertile  in  Spain;  and  here  upsprang,  in  Spain's  better 
days,  a little  city,  with  a small  but  beautiful  palace 
shaded  by  enormous  trees,  where  royalty  delighted  to 
forget  its  cares.  Here  Ferdinand  the  Seventh  spent  his 
latter  days,  surrounded  by  lovely  senoras  and  Andalusian 
bull-fighters:  but  as  the  German  Schiller  has  it  in  one  of 
his  tragedies: 

“ The  happy  days  in  fair  Aranjuez, 

Are  past  and  gone.” 

When  the  sensual  king  went  to  his  dread  account, 
royalty  deserted  it,  and  it  soon  fell  into  decay.  Intriguing 
courtiers  no  longer  crowd  its  halls;  its  spacious  circus, 
where  Manchegan  bulls  once  roared  in  rage  and  agony, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  391 

is  now  closed,  and  the  light  tinkling  of  guitars  is  no  longer 
heard  amidst  its  groves  and  gardens. 

At  Aranjuez  I made  a sojourn  of  three  days,  during 
which  time  Antonio,  Lopez,  and  myself  visited  every  house 
in  the  town.  We  found  a vast  deal  of  poverty  and  ignorance 
amongst  the  inhabitants,  and  experienced  some  opposition: 
nevertheless  it  pleased  the  Almighty  to  permit  us  to  dispose 
of  about  eighty  Testaments,  which  were  purchased  entirely 
by  the  very  poor  people;  those  in  easier  circumstances 
paying  no  attention  to  the  word  of  God,  but  rather  turning 
it  to  scoff  and  ridicule. 

One  circumstance  was  very  gratifying  and  cheering 
to  me,  namely,  the  ocular  proof  which  I possessed  that 
the  books  which  I had  disposed  of  were  read,  and  with 
attention,  by  those  to  whom  I sold  them;  and  that  many 
others  participated  in  their  benefit.  In  the  streets  of 
Aranjuez,  and  beneath  the  mighty  cedars  and  gigantic 
elms  and  plantains  which  compose  its  noble  woods,  I have 
frequently  seen  groups  assembled  listening  to  individuals 
who,  with  the  New  Testament  in  their  hands,  were  reading 
aloud  the  comfortable  words  of  salvation. 

It  is  probable  that,  had  I remained  a longer  period 
at  Aranjuez,  I might  have  sold  many  more  of  these  divine 
books,  but  I was  eager  to  gain  La  Mancha  and  its  sandy 
plains,  and  to  conceal  myself  for  a season  amongst  its 
solitary  villages,  for  I was  apprehensive  that  a storm 
was  gathering  around  me;  but  when  once  through  Ocana, 
the  frontier  town,  I knew  well  that  I should  have  nothing 
to  fear  from  the  Spanish  authorities,  as  their  power  ceased 
there,  the  rest  of  La  Mancha  being  almost  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  Carlists,  and  overrun  by  small  parties  of 
banditti,  from  whom,  however,  I trusted  that  the  Lord 
would  preserve  me.  I therefore  departed  for  Ocana, 
distant  three  leagues  fram  Aranjuez. 

I started  with  Antonio  at  six  in  the  evening,  having 
early  in  the  morning  sent  forward  Lopez  with  between 
two  and  three  hundred  Testaments.  We  left  the  high 
road,  and  proceeded  by  a shorter  way  through  wild  hills 
and  over  very  broken  and  precipitous  ground:  being  well 
mounted  we  found  ourselves  just  after  sunset  opposite 
Ocana,  which  stands  on  a steep  hill.  A deep  valley  lay 
between  us  and  the  town:  we  descended,  and  came  to  a 
small  bridge,  which  traverses  a rivulet  at  the  bottom  of 
the  valley,  at  a very  small  distance  from  a kind  of  suburb. 
We  crossed  the  bridge,  and  were  passing  by  a deserted 
house  on  our  left  hand,  when  a man  appeared  from  under 
the  porch. 

What  I am  about  to  state  will  seem  incomprehensible. 


392 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


but  a singular  history  and  a singular  people  are  connected 
with  it:  the  man  placed  himself  before  my  horse  so  as  to 
bar  the  way,  and  said  “ Schophon  ,”  which,  in  the  Hebrew 
tongue,  signifies  a rabbit.  I knew  this  word  to  be  one  of 
the  Jewish  countersigns,  and  asked  the  man  if  he  had  any 
thing  to  communicate?  He  said,  “ You  must  not  enter 
the  town,  for  a net  is  prepared  for  you.  The  corregidor 
of  Toledo,  on  whom  may  all  evil  light,  in  order  to  give 
pleasure  to  the  priests  of  Maria,  in  whose  face  I spit,  has 
ordered  all  the  alcaldes  of  these  parts,  and  the  escribanos 
and  the  corchetes  to  lay  hands  on  you  wherever  they 
may  find  you,  and  to  send  you,  and  your  books,  and  all 
that  pertains  to  you  to  Toledo.  Your  servant  was  seized 
this  morning  in  the  town  above,  as  he  was  selling  the 
writings  in  the  streets,  and  they  are  now  awaiting  your 
arrival  in  the  posada;  but  I knew  you  from  the  accounts 
of  my  brethren,  and  I have  been  waiting  here  four  hours 
to  give  you  warning  in  order  that  your  horse  may  turn 
his  tail  to  your  enemies,  and  neigh  in  derision  of  them. 
Fear  nothing  for  your  servant,  for  he  is  known  to  the  alcalde, 
and  will  be  set  at  liberty,  but  do  you  flee,  and  may  God 
attend  you.”  Having  said  this,  he  hurried  towards  the 
town. 

I hesitated  not  a moment  to  take  his  advice,  knowing 
full  well  that,  as  my  books  had  been  taken  possession  of, 
I could  do  no  more  in  that  quarter.  We  turned  back 
in  the  direction  of  Aranjuez,  the  horses,  notwithstanding 
the  nature  of  the  ground,  galloping  at  full  speed;  but 
our  adventures  were  not  over.  Midway,  and  about  half 
a league  from  the  village  of  Antigola,  we  saw  close  to  us 
on  our  left  hand  three  men  on  a low  bank.  As  far  as  the 
darkness  would  permit  us  to  distinguish,  they  were  naked, 
but  each  bore  in  his  hand  a long  gun.  These  were  rateros, 
or  the  common  assassins  and  robbers  of  the  roads.  We 
halted  and  cried  out,  “ Who  goes  there?  ” They  replied, 
“ What's  that  to  you?  pass  by.”  Their  drift  was  to  fire 
at  us  from  a position  from  which  it  would  be  impossible  to 
miss.  We  shouted,  “ If  you  do  not  instantly  pass  to  the 
right  side  of  the  road,  we  will  tread  you  down  between  the 
horses'  hoofs.”  They  hesitated  and  then  obeyed,  for  all 
assassins  are  dastards,  and  the  least  show  of  resolution 
daunts  them.  As  we  galloped  past,  one  cried,  with  an 
obscene  oath,  “ Shall  we  fire?  ” But  another  said,  “ No, 
no!  there's  danger.”  We  reached  Aranjuez,  where  early 
next  morning  Lopez  rejoined  us,  and  we  returned  to  Madrid. 

I am  sorry  to  state  that  two  hundred  Testaments 
were  seized  at  Ocana,  from  whence,  after  being  sealed 
up,  they  were  despatched  to  Toledo.  Lopez  informed 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


393 


me,  that  in  two  hours  he  could  have  sold  them  all,  the 
demand  was  so  great.  As  it  was,  twenty-seven  were  dis- 
posed of  in  less  than  ten  minutes. 

“ Ride  on  because  of  the  word  of  righteousness.” 
Notwithstanding  the  check  which  we  had  experienced 
at  Ocaha,  we  were  far  from  being  discouraged,  and  forth- 
with prepared  ourselves  for  another  expedition.  As  we 
returned  from  Aranjeuz  to  Madrid,  my  eyes  had  frequently 
glanced  towards  the  mighty  wall  of  mountains  dividing 
the  two  Castiles,  and  I said  to  myself,  “ Would  it  not  be 
well  to  cross  those  hills,  and  commence  operations  on  the 
other  side,  even  in  Old  Castile?  There  I am  unknown, 
and  intelligence  of  my  proceedings  can  scarcely  have  been 
transmitted  thither.  Peradventure  the  enemy  is  asleep, 
and  before  he  has  roused  himself,  I may  have  sown  much 
of  the  precious  seed  amongst  the  villages  of  the  Old 
Castilians.  To  Castile,  therefore,  to  Castile  la  Vieja!  ” 
Accordingly,  on  the  day  after  my  arrival,  I despatched 
several  cargoes  of  books  to  various  places  which  I proposed 
to  visit,  and  sent  forward  Lopez  and  his  donkey,  well 
laden,  with  directions  to  meet  me  on  a particular  day 
beneath  a particular  arch  of  the  aqueduct  of  Segovia.  I 
likewise  gave  him  orders  to  engage  any  persons  willing  to 
co-operate  with  us  in  the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures, 
and  who  might  be  likely  to  prove  of  utility  in  the  enterprise* 
A more  useful  assistant  than  Lopez  in  an  expedition  of  this 
kind  it  was  impossible  to  have.  He  was  not  only  well 
acquainted  with  the  country,  but  had  friends,  and  even 
connexions  on  the  other  side  of  the  hills,  in  whose  houses 
he  assured  me  that  we  should  at  all  times  find  a hearty 
welcome.  He  departed  in  high  spirits,  exclaiming, 
“ Be  of  good  cheer,  Don  Jorge;  before  we  return  we  will 
have  disposed  of  every  copy  of  your  evangelic  library. 
Down  with  the  friars!  Down  with  superstition!  Viva 
Ingalaterra,  viva  el  Evangelio!  ” 

In  a few  days  I followed  with  Antonio.  We  ascended 
the  mountains  by  the  pass  called  Pena  Cerrada,  which 
lies  about  three  leagues  to  the  eastward  of  that  of 
Guadarama.  It  is  very  unfrequented,  the  high  road 
between  the  two  Castiles  passing  through  Guadarama. 
It  has,  moreover,  an  evil  name,  being,  according  to  common 
report,  infested  with  banditti.  The  sun  was  just  setting 
when  we  reached  the  top  of  the  hills,  and  entered  a thick 
and  gloomy  pine  forest,  which  entirely  covers  the  mountains 
on  the  side  of  Old  Castile.  The  descent  soon  became  so 
rapid  and  precipitous,  that  we  were  fain  to  dismount  from 
our  horses  and  to  drive  them  before  us.  Into  the  woods 
we  plunged  deeper  and  deeper  still;  night-birds  soon  began 


394 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


to  hoot  and  cry,  and  millions  of  crickets  commenced  their 
shrill  chirping  above,  below,  and  around  us.  Occasionally, 
amidst  the  trees  at  a distance,  we  could  see  blazes,  as  if 
from  immense  fires.  “ They  are  those  of  the  charcoal- 
burners,  mon  maitre!  ” said  Antonio;  “we  will  not  go 
near  them,  however,  for  they  are  savage  people,  and  half 
bandits.  Many  is  the  traveller  whom  they  have  robbed 
and  murdered  in  these  horrid  wildernesses.” 

It  was  blackest  night  when  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains;  we  were  still,  however,  amidst  woods 
and  pine  forests,  which  extended  for  leagues  in  every 
direction.  “ We  shall  scarcely  reach  Segovia  to-night, 
mon  maitre, ” said  Antonio.  And  so  indeed  it  proved, 
for  we  became  bewildered,  and  at  last  arrived  where  two 
roads  branched  off  in  different  directions,  we  took  not  the 
left  hand  road,  which  would  have  conducted  us  to  Segovia, 
but  turned  to  the  right,  in  the  direction  of  La  Granja, 
where  we  arrived  at  midnight. 

We  found  the  desolation  of  La  Granja  far  greater  than 
that  of  Aranjuez;  both  had  suffered  from  the  absence  of 
royalty,  but  the  former  to  a degree  which  was  truly 
appalling.  Nine-tenths  of  the  inhabitants  had  left  this 
place,  which,  until  the  late  military  revolution,  had  been 
the  favourite  residence  of  Christina.  So  great  is  the 
solitude  of  La  Granja,  that  wild  boars  from  the  neighbouring 
forests,  and  especially  from  the  beautiful  pine-covered 
mountain  which  rises  like  a cone  directly  behind  the  palace, 
frequently  find  their  way  into  the  streets  and  squares, 
and  whet  their  tusks  against  the  pillars  of  the  porticos. 

“ Ride  on  because  of  the  word  of  righteousness.”  After 
a stay  of  twenty-four  hours  at  La  Granja,  we  proceeded  to 
Segovia.  The  day  had  arrived  on  which  I had  appointed 
to  meet  Lopez.  I repaired  to  the  aqueduct,  and  sat  down 
beneath  the  hundred  and  seventh  arch,  where  I waited  the 
greater  part  of  the  day,  but  he  came  not,  whereupon  I rose 
and  went  into  the  city. 

At  Segovia  I tarried  two  days  in  the  house  of  a friend, 
still  I could  hear  nothing  of  Lopez.  At  last,  by  the  greatest 
chance  in  the  world,  I heard  from  a peasant  that  there 
were  men  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Abades  selling  books. 

Abades  is  about  three  leagues  distant  from  Segovia, 
and  upon  receiving  this  intelligence,  I instantly  departed 
for  the  former  place,  with  three  donkeys  laden  with  Testa- 
ments. I reached  Abades  at  nightfall,  and  found  Lopez, 
with  two  peasants  whom  he  had  engaged,  in  the  house  of 
the  surgeon  of  the  place,  where  I also  took  up  my  residence. 
He  had  already  disposed  of  a considerable  number  of 
Testaments  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  had  that  day 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


395 


commenced  selling  at  Abades  itself ; he  had,  however,  been 
interrupted  by  two  of  the  three  curas  of  the  village,  who, 
with  horrid  curses  denounced  the  work,  threatening  eternal 
condemnation  to  Lopez  for  selling  it,  and  to  any  person 
who  should  purchase  it;  whereupon  Lopez,  terrified, 
forbore  until  I should  arrive.  The  third  cura,  however, 
exerted  himself  to  the  utmost  to  persuade  the  people  to 
provide  themselves  with  Testaments,  telling  them  that 
his  brethren  were  hypocrites  and  false  guides,  who,  by 
keeping  them  in  ignorance  of  the  word  and  will  of  Christ, 
were  leading  them  to  the  abyss.  Upon  receiving  this 
information,  I instantly  sallied  forth  to  the  market-place, 
and  that  same  night  succeeded  in  disposing  of  upwards 
of  thirty  Testaments.  The  next  morning  the  house  was 
entered  by  the  two  factious  curas,  but  upon  my  rising 
to  confront  them,  they  retreated,  and  I heard  no  more 
of  them,  except  that  they  publicly  cursed  me  in  the  church 
more  than  once,  an  event  which,  as  no  ill  resulted  from 
it,  gave  me  little  concern. 

I will  not  detail  the  events  of  the  next  week;  suffice 
it  to  say  that  arranging  my  forces  in  the  most  advantageous 
way,  I succeeded,  by  God's  assistance,  in  disposing  of  from 
five  to  six  hundred  Testaments  amongst  the  villages  from 
one  to  seven  leagues'  distance  from  Abades.  At  the 
expiration  of  that  period  I received  information  that  my 
proceedings  were  known  in  Segovia,  in  which  province 
Abades  is  situated,  and  that  an  order  was  about  to  be  sent 
to  the  alcalde  to  seize  all  books  in  my  possession.  Where- 
upon, notwithstanding  that  it  was  late  in  the  evening, 
I decamped  with  all  my  people,  and  upwards  of  three 
hundred  Testaments,  having  a few  hours  previously 
received  a fresh  supply  from  Madrid.  That  night  we 
passed  in  the  fields,  and  next  morning  proceeded  to  Labajos, 
a village  on  the  high  road  from  Madrid  to  Valladolid.  In 
this  place  we  offered  no  books  for  sale,  but  contented  our- 
selves with  supplying  the  neighbouring  villages  with  the 
word  of  God:  we  likewise  sold  it  in  the  highways. 

We  had  not  been  at  Labajos  a week,  during  which 
time  we  were  remarkably  successful,  when  the  Carlist 
chieftain,  Balmaseda,  at  the  head  of  his  cavalry,  made  his 
desperate  inroad  into  the  southern  part  of  Old  Castile, 
dashing  down  like  an  avalanche  from  the  pine-woods  of 
Soria.  I was  present  at  all  the  horrors  which  ensued, — 
the  sack  of  Arrevalo,  and  the  forcible  entry  into  Martin 
Munoz.  Amidst  these  terrible  scenes  we  continued  our 
labours.  Suddenly  I lost  Lopez  for  three  days,  and  suffered 
dreadful  anxiety  on  his  account,  imagining  that  he  had 
been  shot  by  the  Carlists;  at  last  I heard  that  he  was  in 


396 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


prison  at  Villallos,  three  leagues  distant.  The  steps  which 
I took  to  rescue  him  will  be  found  detailed  in  a communica- 
tion, which  I deemed  it  my  duty  to  transmit  to  Lord 
William  Hervey,  who,  in  the  absence  of  Sir  George  Villiers, 
now  became  Earl  of  Clarendon,  fulfilled  the  duties  of 
minister  at  Madrid: — 

Labajos,  Province  of  Segovia, 
August  23,  1838. 

My  Lord, — I beg  leave  to  call  your  attention  to  the 
following  facts.  On  the  21st  inst.  I received  information 
that  a person  in  my  employ,  of  the  name  of  Juan  Lopez, 
had  been  thrown  into  the  prison  of  Villallos,  in  the  province 
of  Avila,  by  order  of  the  cura  of  that  place.  The  crime 
with  which  he  was  charged  was  selling  the  New  Testament. 
I was  at  that  time  at  Labajos,  in  the  province  of  Segovia, 
and  the  division  of  the  factious  chieftain  Balmaseda  was 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  On  the  22nd,  I mounted 
my  horse  and  rode  to  Villallos,  a distance  of  three  leagues. 
On  my  arrival  there,  I found  that  Lopez  had  been  removed 
from  the  prison  to  a private  house.  An  order  had  arrived 
from  the  corregidor  of  Avila,  commanding  that  the  person 
of  Lopez  should  be  set  at  liberty,  and  that  the  books  which 
had  been  found  in  his  possession  should  be  alone  detained. 
Nevertheless,  in  direct  opposition  to  this  order,  (a  copy 
of  which  I herewith  transmit,)  the  alcalde  of  Villallos,  at 
the  instigation  of  the  cura,  refused  to  permit  the  said 
Lopez  to  quit  the  place,  either  to  proceed  to  Avila  or  in 
any  other  direction.  It  had  been  hinted  to  Lopez  that 
as  the  factious  were  expected,  it  was  intended  on  their 
arrival  to  denounce  him  to  them  as  a liberal,  and  to  cause 
him  to  be  sacrificed.  Taking  these  circumstances  into 
consideration,  I deemed  it  my  duty  as  a Christian  and  a 
gentleman,  to  rescue  my  unfortunate  servant  from  such 
lawless  hands,  and  in  consequence,  defying  opposition, 
I bore  him  off,  though  entirely  unarmed,  through  a crowd 
of  at  least  one  hundred  peasants.  On  leaving  the  place 
I shouted,  “ Viva  Isabel  Segunda 

As  it  is  my  belief  that  the  cura  of  Villallos  is  a person 
capable  of  any  infamy,  I beg  leave  humbly  to  intreat  your 
Lordship  to  cause  a copy  of  the  above  narration  to  be 
forwarded  to  the  Spanish  government. — I have  the  honour 
to  remain,  My  Lord,  Your  Lordship’s  most  obedient, 

George  Borrow. 

To  the  Right  Honourable 
Lord  William  Hervey. 

After  the  rescue  of  Lopez  we  proceeded  in  the  work 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


397 


of  distribution.  Suddenly,  however,  the  symptoms  of 
an  approaching  illness  came  over  me,  which  compelled 
us  to  return  in  all  haste  to  Madrid.  Arrived  there,  I was 
attacked  by  a fever  which  confined  me  to  my  bed  for 
several  weeks;  occasional  fits  of  delirium  came  over  me, 
during  one  of  which,  I imagined  myself  in  the  market- 
place of  Martin  Munos,  engaged  in  deadly  struggle  with 
the  chieftain  Balmaseda. 

The  fever  had  scarcely  departed,  when  a profound 
melancholy  took  possession  of  me,  which  entirely  dis- 
qualified me  for  active  exertion.  Change  of  scene  and  air 
was  recommended;  I therefore  returned  to  England. 


CHAPTER  XLV 

Return  to  Spain — Seville — A Hoary  Persecutor— Manchegan 
Prophetess — Antonio’s  Dream. 

On  the  31st  of  December,  1838,  I again  visited  Spain 
for  the  third  time.  After  staying  a day  or  two  at  Cadiz 
I repaired  to  Seville,  from  which  place  I proposed  starting 
for  Madrid  with  the  mail  post.  Here  I tarried  about  a 
fortnight,  enjoying  the  delicious  climate  of  this  terrestrial 
Paradise,  and  the  balmy  breezes  of  the  Andalusian  winter, 
even  as  I had  done  two  years  previously.  Before  leaving 
Seville,  I visited  the  bookseller,  my  correspondent,  who 
informed  me  that  seventy-six  copies  of  the  hundred  Testa- 
ments entrusted  to  his  care  had  been  placed  in  embargo 
by  the  government  last  summer,  and  that  they  were  at 
the  present  time  in  the  possession  of  the  ecclesiastical 
governor,  whereupon  I determined  to  visit  this  functionary 
also,  with  the  view  of  making  inquiries  concerning  the 
property. 

He  lived  in  a large  house  in  the  Pajaria,  or  straw- 
market.  He  was  a very  old  man,  between  seventy  and 
eighty,  and,  like  the  generality  of  those  who  wear  the 
sacerdotal  habit  in  this  city,  was  a fierce  persecuting 
Papist.  I imagine  that  he  scarcely  believed  his  ears 
when  his  two  grand-nephews,  beautiful  black-haired  boys 
who  were  playing  in  the  court-yard,  ran  to  inform  him 
that  an  Englishman  was  waiting  to  speak  with  him,  as 
it  is  probable  that  I was  the  first  heretic  who  ever  ventured 
into  his  habitation.  I found  him  in  a vaulted  room, 
seated  on  a lofty  chair,  with  two  sinister-looking  secretaries, 
also  in  sacerdotal  habits,  employed  in  writing  at  a table 
before  him.  He  brought  powerfully  to  my  mind  the  grim 


398 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


old  inquisitor  who  persuaded  Philip  the  Second  to  slay  his 
own  son  as  an  enemy  to  the  church. 

He  rose  as  I entered,  and  gazed  upon  me  with  a counten- 
ance dark  with  suspicion  and  dissatisfaction.  He  at  last 
condescended  to  point  me  to  a sofa,  and  I proceeded  to 
state  to  him  my  business.  He  became  much  agitated 
when  I mentioned  the  Testaments  to  him;  but  I no  sooner 
spoke  of  the  Bible  Society  and  told  him  who  I was,  than 
he  could  contain  himself  no  longer:  with  a stammering 
tongue,  and  with  eyes  flashing  fire  like  hot  coals,  he  pro- 
ceeded to  rail  against  the  society  and  myself,  saying  that 
the  aims  of  the  first  were  atrocious,  and  that,  as  to  myself, 
he  was  surprised  that,  being  once  lodged  in  the  prison  of 
Madrid,  I had  ever  been  permitted  to  quit  it;  adding,  that 
it  was  disgraceful  in  the  government  to  allow  a person 
of  my  character  to  roam  about  an  innocent  and  peaceful 
country,  corrupting  the  minds  of  the  ignorant  and  un- 
suspicious. Far  from  allowing  myself  to  be  disconcerted 
by  his  rude  behaviour,  I replied  to  him  with  all  possible 
politeness,  and  assured  him  that  in  this  instance  he  had 
no  reason  to  alarm  himself,  as  my  sole  motive  in  claiming 
the  books  in  question,  was  to  avail  myself  of  an  opportunity 
which  at  present  presented  itself,  of  sending  them  out 
of  the  country,  which,  indeed,  I had  been  commanded  to 
do  by  an  official  notice.  But  nothing  would  soothe  him, 
and  he  informed  me  that  he  should  not  deliver  up  the 
books  on  any  condition,  save  by  a positive  order  of  the 
government.  As  the  matter  was  by  no  means  an  affair 
of  consequence,  I thought  it  wise  not  to  persist,  and  also 
prudent  to  take  my  leave  before  he  requested  me.  I was 
followed  even  down  into  the  street  by  his  niece  and  grand- 
nephews, who,  during  the  whole  of  the  conversation,  had 
listened  at  the  door  of  the  apartment  and  heard  every  word. 

In  passing  through  La  Mancha,  we  staid  for  four  hours 
at  Manzanares,  a large  village.  I was  standing  in  the 
market-place  conversing  with  a curate,  when  a frightful 
ragged  object  presented  itself;  it  was  a girl  about  eighteen 
or  nineteen,  perfectly  blind,  a white  film  being  spread 
over  her  huge  staring  eyes.  Her  countenance  was  as 
yellow  as  that  of  a Mulatto.  I thought  at  first  that  she 
was  a Gypsy,  and  addressing  myself  to  her,  inquired  in 
Gitano  if  she  were  of  that  race;  she  understood  me,  but 
shaking  her  head,  replied,  that  she  was  something  better 
than  a Gitana,  and  could  speak  something  better  than 
that  jargon  of  witches;  whereupon  she  commenced  asking 
me  several  questions  in  exceedingly  good  Latin.  I was 
of  course  very  much  surprised,  but  summoning  all  my 
Latinitv,  I called  her  Manchegan  Prophetess,  and  ex- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


399 


pressing  my  admiration  for  her  learning,  begged  to  be 
informed  by  what  means  she  became  possessed  of  it.  I 
must  here  observe  that  a crowd  instantly  gathered  around 
us,  who,  though  they  understood  not  one  word  of  our 
discourse,  at  every  sentence  of  the  girl  shouted  applause, 
proud  in  the  possession  of  a prophetess  who  could  answer 
the  Englishman. 

She  informed  me  that  she  was  born  blind,  and  that  a 
Jesuit  priest  had  taken  compassion  on  her  when  she  was 
a child,  and  had  taught  her  the  holy  language,  in  order 
that  the  attention  and  hearts  of  Christians  might  be  more 
easily  turned  towards  her.  I soon  discovered  that  he 
had  taught  her  something  more  than  Latin,  for  upon  telling 
her  that  I was  an  Englishman,  she  said  that  she  had  always 
loved  Britain,  which  was  once  the  nursery  of  saints  and 
sages,  for  example  Bede  and  Alcuin,  Columba  and  Thomas 
of  Canterbury;  but  she  added  those  times  had  gone  by 
since  the  re-appearance  of  Semiramis  (Elizabeth).  Her 
Latin  was  truly  excellent,  and  when  I,  like  a genuine 
Goth,  spoke  of  Anglia  and  Terra  Yandalica  (Andalusia), 
she  corrected  me  by  saying,  that  in  her  language  those 
places  were  called  Britannia  and  Terra  Betica.  When  we 
had  finished  our  discourse,  a gathering  was  made  for  the 
prophetess,  the  very  poorest  contributing  something. 

After  travelling  four  days  and  nights,  we  arrived  at 
Madrid,  without  having  experienced  the  slightest  accident, 
though  it  is  but  just  to  observe,  and  always  with  gratitude 
to  the  Almighty,  that  the  next  mail  was  stopped.  A 
singular  incident  befell  me  immediately  after  my  arrival; 
on  entering  the  arch  of  the  posada  called  La  Reyna,  where  I 
intended  to  put  up,  I found  myself  encircled  in  a person’s 
arms,  and  on  turning  round  in  amazement,  beheld  my 
Greek  servant,  Antonio.  He  was  haggard  and  ill-dressed, 
and  his  eyes  seemed  starting  from  their  sockets. 

As  soon  as  we  were  alone  he  informed  that  since  my 
departure  he  had  undergone  great  misery  and  destitution, 
having,  during  the  whole  period,  been  unable  to  find  a 
master  in  need  of  his  services,  so  that  he  was  brought  nearly 
to  the  verge  of  desperation;  but  that  on  the  night  immedi- 
ately preceding  my  arrival  he  had  a dream,  in  which  he  saw 
me,  mounted  on  a black  horse,  ride  up  to  the  gate  of  the 
posada,  and  that  on  that  account  he  had  been  waiting  there 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  I do  not  pretend  to 
offer  an  opinion  concerning  this  narrative,  which  is  beyond 
the  reach  of  my  philosophy,  and  shall  content  myself  with 
observing  that  only  two  individuals  in  Madrid  were  aware 
of  my  arrival  in  Spain.  I was  very  glad  to  receive  him 
again  into  my  service,  as,  notwithstanding  his  faults,  he  had 


400 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


in  many  instances  proved  of  no  slight  assistance  to  me  in 
my  wanderings  and  biblical  labours. 

I was  soon  settled  in  my  former  lodgings,  when  one  of 
my  first  cares  was  to  pay  a visit  to  Lord  Clarendon.  Amongst 
other  things,  he  informed  me  that  he  had  received  an 
official  notice  from  the  government,  stating  the  seizure  of 
the  New  Testaments  at  Ocana,  the  circumstances  relating 
to  which  I have  described  on  a former  occasion,  and  inform- 
ing him  that  unless  steps  were  instantly  taken  to  remove 
them  from  the  country,  they  would  be  destroyed  at  Toledo, 
to  which  place  they  had  been  conveyed.  I replied  that  I 
should  give  myself  no  trouble  about  the  matter;  and  that 
if  the  authorities  of  Toledo,  civil  or  ecclesiastic,  determined 
upon  burning  these  books,  my  only  hope  was  that  they 
would  commit  them  to  the  flames  with  all  possible  publicity, 
as  by  so  doing  they  would  but  manifest  their  own  hellish 
rancour  and  their  hostility  to  the  word  of  God. 

Being  eager  to  resume  my  labours,  I had  no  sooner 
arrived  at  Madrid  than  I wrote  to  Lopez  at  Villa  Seca,  for 
the  purpose  of  learning  whether  he  was  inclined  to  co- 
operate in  the  work,  as  on  former  occasions.  In  reply,  he 
informed  me  that  he  was  busily  employed  in  his  agricultural 
pursuits:  to  supply  his  place,  however,  he  sent  over  an 
elderly  villager,  Victoriano  Lopez  by  name,  a distant 
relation  of  his  own. 

What  is  a missionary  in  the  heart  of  Spain  without  a 
horse?  Which  consideration  induced  me  now  to  purchase 
an  Arabian  of  high  caste,  which  had  been  brought  from 
Algiers  by  an  officer  of  the  French  legion.  The  name  of  this 
steed,  the  best  I believe  that  ever  issued  from  the  desert, 
was  Sidi  Habismilk. 


CHAPTER  XLVI 

Work  of  Distribution  resumed — Adventure  at  Cobenna — Power  of  tbe 
Clergy — Rural  Authorities — Fuente  la  Higuera — Victoriano’s  Mishap 
— Village  Prison — The  Rope — Antonio’s  Errand — Antonio  at  Mass. 

In  my  last  chapter,  I stated  that,  immediately  after  my 
arrival  at  Madrid,  I proceeded  to  get  everything  in  readiness 
for  commencing  operations  in  the  neighbourhood;  and  I 
soon  entered  upon  my  labours  in  reality.  Considerable 
success  attended  my  feeble  efforts  in  the  good  cause,  for 
which  at  present,  after  the  lapse  of  some  years,  I still  look 
back  with  gratitude  to  the  Almighty. 

All  the  villages  within  the  distance  of  four  leagues  to  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


401 


east  of  Madrid,  were  visited  in  less  than  a fortnight,  and 
Testaments  to  the  number  of  nearly  two  hundred  disposed 
of.  These  villages  for  the  most  part  are  very  small,  some  of 
them  consisting  of  not  more  than  a dozen  houses,  or  I should 
rather  say  miserable  cabins.  I left  Antonio,  my  Greek, 
to  superintend  matters  in  Madrid,  and  proceeded  with 
Victoriano,  the  peasant  from  Villa  Seca,  in  the  direction 
which  I have  already  mentioned.  We,  however,  soon 
parted  company,  and  pursued  different  routes. 

The  first  village  at  which  I made  an  attempt  was  Cobenna, 
about  three  leagues  from  Madrid.  I was  dressed  in  the 
fashion  of  the  peasants  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Segovia, 
in  Old  Castile;  namely,  I had  on  my  head  a species  of 
leather  helmet  or  montera,  with  a jacket  and  trousers  of 
the  same  material.  I had  the  appearance  of  a person 
between  sixty  and  seventy  years  of  age,  and  drove  before 
me  a borrico  with  a sack  of  Testaments  lying  across  its  back. 
On  nearing  the  village,  I met  a genteel-looking  young  woman 
leading  a little  boy  by  the  hand:  as  I was  about  to  pass  her 
with  the  customary  salutation  of  vciya  usted  con  Dios , she 
stopped,  and  after  looking  at  me  for  a moment,  she  said: 
“ Uncle  ( Tio ),  what  is  that  you  have  got  on  your  borrico? 
Is  it  soap?  ” 

“ Yes/'  I replied:  “ it  is  soap  to  wash  souls  clean.” 

She  demanded  what  I meant;  whereupon  I told  her  that 
I carried  cheap  and  godly  books  for  sale.  On  her  requesting 
to  see  one,  I produced  a copy  from  my  pocket  and  handed 
it  to  her.  She  instantly  commenced  reading  with  a loud 
voice,  and  continued  so  for  at  least  ten  minutes,  occasionally 
exclaiming:  “ Que  lectura  tan  bonita , que  lectura  tan  linda  ! 
What  beautiful,  what  charming  reading!  ” At  last,  on  my 
informing  her  that  I was  in  a hurry,  and  could  not  wait  any 
longer,  she  said,  “ true,  true,”  and  asked  me  the  price  of  the 
book:  I told  her  “ but  three  reals,”  whereupon  she  said, 
that  though  what  I asked  was  very  little,  it  was  more  than 
she  could  afford  to  give,  as  there  was  little  or  no  money  in 
those  parts.  I said  I was  sorry  for  it,  but  that  I could  not 
dispose  of  the  books  for  less  than  I had  demanded,  and 
accordingly,  resuming  it,  wished  her  farewell,  and  left  her. 
I had  not,  however,  proceeded  thirty  yards,  when  the  boy 
came  running  behind  me,  shouting,  out  of  breath:  “ Stop, 

uncle,  the  book,  the  book!  ” Upon  overtaking  me,  he 
delivered  the  three  reals  in  copper,  and  seizing  the  Testa- 
ment, ran  back  to  her,  who  I suppose  was  his  sister,  flourish- 
ing the  book  over  his  head  with  great  glee. 

On  arriving  at  the  village,  I directed  my  steps  to  a house, 
around  the  door  of  which  I saw  several  people  gathered, 
chiefly  women.  On  my  displaying  my  books,  their  curl- 


402 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


osity  was  instantly  aroused,  and  every  person  had  speedily 
one  in  his  hand,  many  reading  aloud;  however,  after  wait- 
ing nearly  an  hour,  I had  disposed  of  but  one  copy,  all 
complaining  bitterly  of  the  distress  of  the  times,  and  the 
almost  total  want  of  money,  though,  at  the  same  time, 
they  acknowledged  that  the  books  were  wonderfully  cheap, 
and  appeared  to  be  very  good  and  Christian-like.  I was 
about  to  gather  up  my  merchandize  and  depart,  when  on  a 
sudden  the  curate  of  the  place  made  his  appearance.  After 
having  examined  the  book  for  some  time  with  considerable 
attention,  he  asked  me  the  price  of  a copy,  and  upon  my 
informing  him  that  it  was  three  reals,  he  replied  that  the 
binding  was  worth  more,  and  that  he  was  much  afraid  that 
I had  stolen  the  books,  and  that  it  was  perhaps  his  duty  to 
send  me  to  prison  as  a suspicious  character;  but  added, 
that  the  books  were  good  books,  however  they  might  be 
obtained,  and  concluded  by  purchasing  two  copies.  The 
poor  people  no  sooner  heard  their  curate  recommend  the 
volumes,  than  all  were  eager  to  secure  one,  and  hurried  here 
and  there  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  money,  so  that 
between  twenty  and  thirty  copies  were  sold  almost  in  an 
instant.  This  adventure  not  only  affords  an  instance  of  the 
power  still  possessed  by  the  Spanish  clergy  over  the  minds 
of  the  people,  but  proves  that  such  influence  is  not  always 
exerted  in  a manner  favourable  to  the  maintenance  of 
ignorance  and  superstition. 

In  another  village,  on  my  showing  a Testament  to  a 
woman,  she  said  that  she  had  a child  at  school  for  whom  she 
would  like  to  purchase  one,  but  that  she  must  first  know 
whether  the  book  was  calculated  to  be  of  service  to  him. 
She  then  went  away,  and  presently  returned  with  the  school- 
master, followed  by  all  the  children  under  his  care ; she  then, 
showing  the  schoolmaster  a book,  inquired  if  it  would  answer 
for  her  son.  The  schoolmaster  called  her  a simpleton  for 
asking  such  a question,  and  said  that  he  knew  the  book  well, 
and  there  was  not  its  equal  in  the  world  (no  hay  otro  en  el 
mundo).  He  instantly  purchased  five  copies  for  his  pupils, 
regretting  that  he  had  no  more  money,  “ for  if  I had/'  said 
he,  “ I would  buy  the  whole  cargo.”  Upon  hearing  this, 
the  woman  purchased  four  copies,  namely,  one  for  her  living 
son,  another  for  her  deceased  husband , a third  for  herself, 
and  a fourth  for  her  brother,  whom  she  said  she  was  expect- 
ing home  that  night  from  Madrid. 

In  this  manner  we  proceeded;  not,  however,  with  uni- 
form success.  In  some  villages  the  people  were  so  poor  and 
needy,  that  they  had  literally  no  money;  even  in  these, 
however,  we  managed  to  dispose  of  a few  copies  in  exchange 
for  barley  or  refreshments.  On  entering  one  very  small 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


403 


hamlet,  Victoriano  was  stopped  by  the  curate,  who,  on 
learning  what  he  carried,  told  him  that  unless  he  instantly 
departed,  he  would  cause  him  to  be  imprisoned,  and  would 
write  to  Madrid  in  order  to  give  information  of  what  was 
going  on.  The  excursion  lasted  about  eight  days.  Im- 
mediately after  my  return,  I dispatched  Victoriano  to 
Caramanchal,  a village  at  a short  distance  from  Madrid, 
the  only  one  towards  the  west  which  had  not  been  visited 
last  year.  He  staid  there  about  an  hour,  and  disposed  of 
twelve  copies,  and  then  returned,  as  he  was  exceedingly 
timid,  and  was  afraid  of  being  met  by  the  thieves  who  swarm 
on  that  road  in  the  evening. 

Shortly  after  these  events,  a circumstance  occurred 
which  will  perhaps  cause  the  English  reader  to  smile,  whilst, 
at  the  same  time,  it  will  not  fail  to  prove  interesting,  as 
affording  an  example  of  the  feeling  prevalent  in  some  of  the 
lone  villages  of  Spain  with  respect  to  innovation  and  all  that 
savours  thereof,  and  the  strange  acts  which  are  sometimes 
committed  by  the  real  authorities  and  the  priests,  without 
the  slightest  fear  of  being  called  to  account;  for  as  they 
live  quite  apart*  from  the  rest  of  the  world,  they  know  no 
people  greater  than  themselves,  and  scarcely  dream  of  a 
higher  power  than  their  own. 

I was  about  to  make  an  excursion  to  Guadalajara,  and 
the  villages  of  Alcarria,  about  seven  leagues  distant  from 
Madrid;  indeed  I merely  awaited  the  return  of  Victoriano 
to  sally  forth;  I having  dispatched  him  in  that  direction 
with  a few  Testaments,  as  a kind  of  explorer,  in  order  that, 
from  his  report  as  to  the  disposition  manifested  by  the  people 
for  purchasing.  I might  form  a tolerably  accurate  opinion 
as  to  the  number  of  copies  which  it  might  be  necessary  to 
carry  with  me.  However,  I heard  nothing  of  him  for  a 
fortnight,  at  the  end  of  which  period  a letter  was  brought  to 
me  by  a peasant,  dated  from  the  prison  of  Fuente  la  Higuera, 
a village  eight  leagues  from  Madrid,  in  the  Camp  in  a of 
Alcala:  this  letter,  written  by  Victoriano,  gave  me  to  under- 
stand that  he  had  been  already  eight  days  imprisoned, 
and  that  unless  I could  find  some  means  to  extricate  him, 
there  was  every  probability  of  his  remaining  in  durance 
until  he  should  perish  with  hunger,  which  he  had  no  doubt 
would  occur  as  soon  as  his  money  was  exhausted.  From 
what  I afterwards  learned,  it  appeared  that,  after  passing 
the  town  of  Alcala,  he  had  commenced  distributing,  and  with 
considerable  success.  His  entire  stock  consisted  of  sixty- 
one  Testaments,  twenty-five  of  which  he  sold  without  the 
slightest  difficulty  or  interruption  in  the  single  village  of 
Arganza;  the  poor  labourers  showering  blessings  on  his 

* Kara  rbv  rbirov  Kai  a Tpbnos,  as  Antonio  said. 


404  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

head  for  providing  them  with  such  good  books  at  an  easy 
price. 

Not  more  than  eighteen  of  his  books  remained,  when 
he  turned  off  the  high  road  towards  Fuente  la  Higuera. 
This  place  was  already  tolerably  well  known  to  him,  he 
having  visited  it  of  old,  when  he  travelled  the  country 
in  the  capacity  of  a vendor  of  cacharras  or  earthen  pans.  He 
subsequently  stated  that  he  felt  some  misgiving  whilst  on 
the  way,  as  the  village  had  invariably  borne  a bad  reputation. 
On  his  arrival,  after  having  put  up  his  cavallejo  or  little 
pony  at  a posada,  he  proceeded  to  the  alcalde  for  the  purpose 
of  asking  permission  to  sell  the  books,  which  that  dignitary 
immediately  granted.  He  now  entered  a house  and  sold  a 
copy,  and  likewise  a second.  Emboldened  by  success,  he 
entered  a third,  which,  it  appeared,  belonged  to  the  barber- 
surgeon  of  the  village.  This  personage  having  just  com- 
pleted his  dinner,  was  seated  in  an  arm  chair  within  his  door- 
way, when  Yictoriano  made  his  appearance.  He  was  a 
man  about  thirty-five,  of  a savage  truculent  countenance. 
On  Victoriano's  offering  him  a Testament,  he  took  it  in  his 
hand  to  examine  it,  but  no  sooner  did  his  eyes  glance  over 
the  title-page  than  he  burst  out  into  a loud  laugh,  ex- 
claiming:— “ Ha,  ha,  Don  Jorge  Borrow,  the  English  heretic, 
we  have  encountered  you  at  last.  Glory  to  the  Virgin  and 
the  Saints!  We  have  long  been  expecting  you  here,  and  at 
length  you  are  arrived.”  He  then  inquired  the  price  of  the 
book,  and  on  being  told  three  reals,  he  flung  down  two,  and 
rushed  out  of  the  house  with  the  Testament  in  his  hand. 

Victoriano  now  became  alarmed,  and  determined  upon 
leaving  the  place  as  soon  as  possible.  He  therefore  hurried 
back  to  the  posada,  and  having  paid  for  the  barley  which  his 
pony  had  consumed,  went  into  the  stable,  and  placing  the 
packsaddle  on  the  animal's  back,  was  about  to  lead  it  forth, 
when  the  alcalde  of  the  village,  the  surgeon,  and  twelve  other 
men,  some  of  whom  were  armed  with  muskets,  suddenly 
presented  themselves.  They  instantly  made  Victoriano 
prisoner,  and  after  seizing  the  books  and  laying  an  embargo 
on  the  pony,  proceeded  amidst  much  abuse  to  drag  the 
captive  to  what  they  denominated  their  prison,  a low  damp 
apartment  with  a little  grated  window,  where  they  locked 
him  up  and  left  him.  At  the  expiration  of  three  quarters 
of  an  hour,  they  again  appeared,  and  conducted  him  to 
the  house  of  the  curate,  where  they  sat  down  in  conclave; 
the  curate,  who  was  a man  stone  blind,  presiding,  whilst 
the  sacristan  officiated  as  secretary.  The  surgeon  having 
stated  his  accusation  against  the  prisoner,  namely,  that  he 
had  detected  him  in  the  fact  of  selling  a version  of  the 
Scriptures  in  the  vulgar  tongue,  the  curate  proceeded  to 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


405 


examine  Victoriano,  asking  him  his  name  and  place  of 
residence,  to  which  he  replied  that  his  name  was  Victoriano 
Lopez,  and  that  he  was  a native  of  Villa  Seca,  in  the  Sagra 
of  Toledo.  The  curate  then  demanded  what  religion  he 
professed?  and  whether  he  was  a Mohometan,  or  freemason? 
and  received  for  answer  that  he  was  a Roman  Catholic. 
I must  here  state,  that  Victoriano,  though  sufficiently 
shrewd  in  his  way,  was  a poor  old  labourer  of  sixty-four; 
and  until  that  moment  had  never  heard  either  of  Mahometans 
or  freemasons.  The  curate  becoming  now  incensed,  called 
him  a tunante  or  scoundrel,  and  added,  you  have  sold  your 
soul  to  a heretic;  we  have  long  been  aware  of  your  proceed- 
ings, and  those  of  your  master.  You  are  the  same  Lopez, 
whom  he  last  year  rescued  from  the  prison  of  Villallos,  in 
the  province  of  Avila ; I sincerely  hope  that  he  will  attempt 
to  do  the  same  thing  here.  “ Yes,  yes,”  shouted  the  rest 
of  the  conclave,  “ let  him  but  venture  here,  and  we  will  shed 
his  heart’s  blood  on  our  stones.”  In  this  manner  they  went 
on  for  nearly  half  an  hour.  At  last  they  broke  up  the  meet- 
ing, and  conducted  Victoriano  once  more  to  his  prison. 

During  his  confinement  he  lived  tolerably  well,  being 
in  possession  of  money.  His  meals  were  sent  him  twice  a 
day  from  the  posada,  where  his  pony  remained  in  embargo. 
Once  or  twice  he  asked  permission  of  the  alcalde,  who 
visited  him  every  night  and  morning  with  his  armed  guard, 
to  purchase  pen  and  paper,  in  order  that  he  might  write  to 
Madrid;  but  this  favour  was  peremptorily  refused  him,  and 
all  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  were  forbidden  under  terrible 
penalties  to  afford  him  the  means  of  writing,  or  to  convey 
any  message  from  him  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  place, 
and  two  boys  were  stationed  before  the  window  of  his  cell 
for  the  purpose  of  watching  everything  which  might  be 
conveyed  to  him. 

It  happened  one  day  that  Victoriano,  being  in  need 
of  a pillow,  sent  word  to  the  people  of  the  posada  to  send 
him  his  alforjas  or  saddlebags,  which  they  did.  In  these 
bags  there  chanced  to  be  a kind  of  rope,  or,  as  it  is  called 
in  Spanish,  soga , with  which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  fastening 
his  satchel  to  the  pony’s  back.  The  urchins  seeing  an  end 
of  this  rope,  hanging  from  the  alforjas,  instantly  ran  to 
the  alcalde  to  give  him  information.  Late  at  evening, 

the  alcalde  again  visited  the  prisoner  at  the  head  of  his 

twelve  men  as  usual.  “ Buenas  noches said  the  alcalde. 
“ Buenas  noches  tenga  usted ,”  replied  Victoriano.  “ For 
what  purpose  did  you  send  for  the  soga  this  afternoon?  ” 
demanded  the  functionary.  “ I sent  for  no  soga,”  said 
the  prisoner,  “ I sent  for  my  alforjas  to  serve  as  a pillow, 

and  it  was  sent  in  them  by  chance.”  " You  are  a false 


406 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


malicious  knave,”  retorted  the  alcalde;  “ you  intend  to 
hang  yourself,  and  by  so  doing  ruin  us  all,  as  your  death 
would  be  laid  at  our  door.  Give  me  the  soga.”  No 
greater  insult  can  be  offered  to  a Spaniard  than  to  tax 
him  with  an  intention  of  committing  suicide.  Poor 
Yictoriano  flew  into  a violent  rage,  and  after  calling  the 
alcalde  several  very  uncivil  names,  he  pulled  the  soga 
from  his  bags,  flung  it  at  his  head,  and  told  him  to  take 
it  home  and  use  it  for  his  own  neck. 

At  length  the  people  of  the  posada  took  pity  on  the 
prisoner,  perceiving  that  he  was  very  harshly  treated 
for  no  crime  at  all;  they  therefore  determined  to  afford 
him  an  opportunity  of  informing  his  friends  of  his  situation, 
and  accordingly  sent  him  a pen  and  inkhorn,  concealed 
in  a loaf  of  bread,  and  a piece  of  writing  paper,  pretending 
that  the  latter  was  intended  for  cigars.  So  Yictoriano 
wrote  the  letter;  but  now  ensued  the  difficulty  of  sending 
it  to  its  destination,  as  no  person  in  the  village  dare  have 
carried  it  for  any  reward.  The  good  people,  however, 
persuaded  a disbanded  soldier  from  another  village,  who 
chanced  to  be  at  Fuente  la  Higuera  in  quest  of  work,  to 
charge  himself  with  it,  assuring  him  that  I would  pay  him 
well  for  his  trouble.  The  man,  watching  his  opportunity, 
received  the  letter  from  Victoriano  at  the  window:  and  it 
was  he  who,  after  travelling  on  foot  all  night,  delivered  it 
to  me  in  safety  at  Madrid. 

I was  now  relieved  from  my  anxiety,  and  had  no  fears  for 
the  result.  I instantly  went  to  a friend  who  is  in  possession 
of  large  estates  about  Guadalajara,  in  which  province 
Fuente  la  Higuera  is  situated,  who  furnished  me  with  letters 
to  the  civil  governor  of  Guadalajara  and  all  the  principal 
authorities;  these  I delivered  to  Antonio,  whom,  at  his  own 
request,  I despatched  on  the  errand  of  the  prisoner’s  libera- 
tion. lie  first  directed  his  course  to  Fuente  la  Higuera, 
where,  entering  the  alcalde’s  house,  he  boldly  told  him  what 
he  had  come  about.  The  alcalde  expecting  that  I was  at 
hand,  with  an  army  of  Englishmen,  for  the  purpose  of 
rescuing  the  prisoner,  became  greatly  alarmed,  and  instantly 
despatched  his  wife  to  summon  his  twelve  men;  however, 
on  Antonio’s  assuring  him  that  there  was  no  intention  of 
having  recourse  to  violence,  he  became  more  tranquil. 
In  a short  time  Antonio  was  summoned  before  the  conclave 
and  its  blind  sacerdotal  president.  They  at  first  attempted 
to  frighten  him  by  assuming  a loud  bullying  tone,  and 
talking  of  the  necessity  of  killing  all  strangers,  and  especi- 
ally the  detested  Don  Jorge  and  his  dependents.  Antonio, 
however,  who  was  not  a person  apt  to  allow  himself  to  be 
easily  terrified,  scoffed  at  their  threats,  and  showing  them  his 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


407 


letters  to  the  authorities  of  Guadalajara,  said  that  he  should 
proceed  there  on  the  morrow  and  denounce  their  lawless 
conduct,  adding  that  he  was  a Turkish  subject,  and  that 
should  they  dare  to  offer  him  the  slightest  incivility,  he 
would  write  to  the  sublime  Porte,  in  comparison  with  whom 
the  best  kings  in  the  world  were  but  worms,  and  who  would 
not  fail  to  avenge  the  wrongs  of  any  of  his  children,  however 
distant,  in  a manner  too  terrible  to  be  mentioned.  He  then 
returned  to  his  posada.  The  conclave  now  proceeded  to 
deliberate  amongst  themselves,  and  at  last  determined  to 
send  their  prisoner  on  the  morrow  to  Guadalajara,  and 
deliver  him  into  the  hands  of  the  civil  governor. 

Nevertheless,  in  order  to  keep  up  a semblance  of  authority, 
they  that  night  placed  two  men  armed  at  the  door  of  the 
posada  where  Antonio  was  lodged,  as  if  he  himself  were  a 
prisoner.  These  men,  as  often  as  the  clock  struck  the  hour, 
shouted  “ Ave  Maria!  Death  to  the  heretics.”  Early  in 
the  morning  the  alcalde  presented  himself  at  the  posada, 
but  before  entering  he  made  an  oration  at  the  door  to  the 
people  in  the  street,  saying,  amongst  other  things,  “ Brethren, 
these  are  the  fellows  who  have  come  to  rob  us  of  our  religion.” 
He  then  went  into  Antonio's  apartment,  and  after  saluting 
him  with  great  politeness,  said,  that  as  a royal  or  high  mass 
was  about  to  be  celebrated  that  morning,  he  had  come  to 
invite  him  to  go  to  church  with  him.  Whereupon  Antonio, 
though  by  no  means  a mass-goer,  rose  and  accompanied 
him,  and  remained  two  hours,  as  he  told  me,  on  his  knees 
on  the  cold  stones,  to  his  great  discomfort;  the  eyes  of  the 
whole  congregation  being  fixed  upon  him  during  the  time. 

After  mass  and  breakfast,  he  departed  for  Guadalajara, 
Victoriano  having  been  already  despatched  under  a guard. 
On  his  arrival,  he  presented  his  letters  to  the  individuals  for 
whom  they  were  intended.  The  civil  governor  was  con- 
vulsed with  merriment  on  hearing  Antonio's  account  of  the 
adventure.  Victoriano  was  set  at  liberty,  and  the  books 
were  placed  in  embargo  at  Guadalajara;  the  governor 
stating,  however,  that  though  it  was  his  duty  to  detain 
them  at  present,  they  should  be  sent  to  me  whenever  I 
chose  to  claim  them;  he  moreover  said  that  he  would  do 
his  best  to  cause  the  authorities  of  Fuente  la  Higuera  to  be 
severely  punished,  as  in  the  whole  affair  they  had  acted 
in  the  most  cruel  tyrannical  manner,  for  which  they  had  no 
authority.  Thus  terminated  this  affair,  one  of  those  little 
accidents  which  chequer  missionary  life  in  Spain. 


408 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  XLVII 

Termination  of  onr  Rural  Labours — Alarm  of  the  Clergy — A New  Ex- 
periment— Success  at  Madrid — Goblin- Alguazil — Staff  of  Office — 

The  Corregidor — An  Explanation — The  Pope  in  England — New 

Testament  expounded — Works  of  Luther. 

We  proceeded  in  our  task  of  distributing  the  Scriptures 
with  various  success,  until  the  middle  of  March,  when 
I determined  upon  starting  for  Talavera,  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  what  it  was  possible  to  accomplish  in  that  town  and 
the  neighbourhood.  I accordingly  bent  my  course  in  that 
direction,  accompanied  by  Antonio  and  Victoriano.  On  our 
way  thither  we  stopped  at  Naval  Carnero,  a large  village 
five  leagues  to  the  west  of  Madrid,  where  I remained  three 
days,  sending  forth  Victoriano  to  the  circumjacent  hamlets 
with  small  cargoes  of  Testaments.  Providence,  however, 
which  had  hitherto  so  remarkably  favoured  us  in  these  rural 
excursions,  now  withdrew  from  us  its  support,  and  brought 
them  to  a sudden  termination;  for  in  whatever  place  the 
sacred  writings  were  offered  for  sale,  they  were  forthwith 
seized  by  persons  who  appeared  to  be  upon  the  watch ; which 
events  compelled  me  to  alter  my  intention  of  proceeding  to 
Talavera  and  to  return  forthwith  to  Madrid. 

I subsequently  learned  that  our  proceedings  on  the  other 
side  of  Madrid  having  caused  alarm  amongst  the  heads  of 
the  clergy,  they  had  made  a formal  complaint  to  the  govern- 
ment, who  immediately  sent  orders  to  all  the  alcaldes  of  the 
villages,  great  and  small,  in  New  Castile,  to  seize  the  New 
Testament  wherever  it  might  be  exposed  for  sale;  but  at 
the  same  time  enjoining  them  to  be  particularly  careful  not 
to  detain  or  maltreat  the  person  or  persons  who  might  be 
attempting  to  vend  it,  An  exact  description  of  myself 
accompanied  these  orders,  and  the  authorities  both  civil 
and  military  were  exhorted  to  be  on  their  guard  against  me 
and  my  arts  and  machinations;  for,  as  the  document 
stated,  I was  to-day  in  one  place,  and  to-morrow  at  twenty 
leagues'  distance. 

I was  not  much  discouraged  by  this  blow,  which  indeed 
did  not  come  entirely  unexpected.  I,  however,  determined 
to  change  the  sphere  of  action,  and  not  expose  the  sacred 
volume  to  seizure  at  every  step  which  I should  take  to 
circulate  it.  In  my  late  attempts,  I had  directed  my 
attention  exclusively  to  the  villages  and  small  towns,  in 
which  it  was  quite  easy  for  the  government  to  frustrate 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


409 


my  efforts  by  means  of  circulars  to  the  local  authorities, 
who  would  of  course  be  on  the  alert,  and  whose  vigilance 
it  would  be  impossible  to  baffle  as  every  novelty  which  occurs 
in  a small  place  is  forthwith  bruited  about.  But  the  case 
would  be  widely  different  amongst  the  crowds  of  the  capital, 
where  I could  pursue  my  labours  with  comparative  secrecy. 
My  present  plan  was  to  abandon  the  rural  districts,  and  to 
offer  the  sacred  volume  at  Madrid,  from  house  to  house,  at 
the  same  low  price  as  in  the  country.  This  plan  I forthwith 
put  into  execution. 

Having  an  extensive  acquaintance  amongst  the  lower 
orders,  I selected  eight  intelligent  individuals  to  co-operate 
with  me,  amongst  whom  were  five  women.  All  these  I 
supplied  with  Testaments,  and  then  sent  them  forth  to  all  the 
parishes  in  Madrid.  The  result  of  their  efforts  more  than 
answered  my  expectations.  In  less  than  fifteen  days  after 
my  return  from  Naval  Garnero,  nearly  six  hundred  copies 
of  the  life  and  words  of  Him  of  Nazareth  had  been  sold  in 
the  streets  and  alleys  of  Madrid;  a fact  which  I hope  I may 
be  permitted  to  mention  with  gladness  and  with  decent 
triumph  in  the  Lord. 

One  of  the  richest  streets  is  the  Calle  Montera,  where 
reside  the  principal  merchants  and  shopkeepers  of  Madrid. 
It  is,  in  fact,  the  street  of  commerce,  in  which  respect,  and  in 
being  a favourite  promenade,  it  corresponds  with  the  far- 
famed  “ Nefsky  ” of  Saint  Petersburg.  Every  house  in 
this  street  was  supplied  with  its  Testament,  and  the  same 
might  be  said  with  respect  to  the  Puerto  del  Sol.  Nay,  in 
some  instances,  every  individual  in  the  house,  man  and  child, 
man-servant  and  maid-servant,  was  furnished  with  a copy. 
My  Greek,  Antonio,  made  wonderful  exertions  in  this 
quarter;  and  it  is  but  justice  to  say  that,  but  for  his  instru- 
mentality, on  many  occasions,  I might  have  been  by  no 
means  able  to  give  so  favourable  an  account  of  the  spread 
of  “ the  Bible  in  Spain.”  There  was  a time  when  I was  in 
the  habit  of  saying  “ dark  Madrid,”  an  expression  which, 
I thank  God,  I could  now  drop.  It  were  scarcely  just  to  call 
a city,  “ dark,”  in  which  thirteen  hundred  Testaments  at 
least  were  in  circulation,  and  in  daily  use. 

It  was  now  that  I turned  to  account  a supply  of  Bibles 
which  I had  received  from  Barcelona,  in  sheets,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  preceding  year.  The  demand  for  the 
entire  Scriptures  was  great ; indeed  far  greater  than  I could 
answer,  as  the  books  were  disposed  of  faster  than  they  could 
be  bound  by  the  man  whom  I employed  for  that  purpose. 
Eight-and-twenty  copies  were  bespoken  and  paid  for  before 
delivery.  Many  of  these  Bibles  found  their  way  into  the  best 
houses  in  Madrid,  The  Marquis  of  - — - had  a large 


410 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


family,  but  every  individual  of  it,  old  and  young,  was  in 
possession  of  a Bible,  and  likewise  a Testament,  which, 
strange  to  say,  were  recommended  by  the  chaplain  of  the 
house.  One  of  my  most  zealous  agents  in  the  propagation 
of  the  Bible  was  an  ecclesiastic.  He  never  walked  out 
without  carrying  one  beneath  his  gown,  which  he  offered 
to  the  first  person  he  met  whom  he  thought  likely  to  purchase. 
Another  excellent  assistant  was  an  elderly  gentleman  of 
Navarre,  enormously  rich,  who  was  continually  purchasing 
copies  on  his  own  account,  which  he,  as  I was  told,  sent  into 
his  native  province,  for  distribution  amongst  his  friends 
and  the  poor. 

On  a certain  night  I had  retired  to  rest  rather  more 
early  than  usual,  being  slightly  indisposed.  I soon  fell 
asleep,  and  had  continued  so  for  some  hours,  when  I was 
suddenly  aroused  by  the  opening  of  the  door  of  the  small 
apartment  in  which  I lay.  I started  up,  and  beheld  Maria 
Diaz,  with  a lamp  in  her  hand,  enter  the  room.  I observed 
that  her  features,  which  were  in  general  peculiarly  calm  and 
placid,  wore  a somewhat  startled  expression.  “ What 
is  the  hour,  and  what  brings  you  here?  ” I demanded. 

“ Senor,”  said  she,  closing  the  door,  and  coming  up  to 
the  bed-side.  “ It  is  close  upon  midnight;  but  a messenger 
belonging  to  the  police  has  just  entered  the  house  and  de- 
manded to  see  you.  I told  him  that  it  was  impossible,  for 
that  your  worship  was  in  bed.  Whereupon  he  sneezed  in 
my  face,  and  said  that  he  would  see  you  if  you  were  in  your 
coffin.  Fie  has  all  the  look  of  a goblin,  and  has  thrown  me 
into  a tremor.  I am  far  from  being  a timid  person,  as  you  are 
aware,  Don  Jorge;  but  I confess  that  I never  cast  my  eyes 
on  these  wretches  of  the  police,  but  my  heart  dies  away 
within  me!  I know  them  but  too  well,  and  what  they  are 
capable  of.” 

“ Pooh,”  said  I,  “ be  under  no  apprehension,  let  him 
come  in,  I fear  him  not,  whether  he  be  alguazil  or  hob- 
goblin. Stand,  however,  at  the  doorway,  that  you  may 
be  a witness  of  what  takes  place,  as  it  is  more  than  probable 
that  he  comes  at  this  unreasonable  hour  to  create  a dis- 
turbance, that  he  may  have  an  opportunity  of  making  an 
unfavourable  report  to  his  principals,  like  the  fellow  on  the 
former  occasion.” 

The  hostess  left  the  apartment,  and  I heard  her  say 
a word  or  two  to  some  one  in  the  passage,  whereupon  there 
was  a loud  sneeze,  and  in  a moment  after  a singular  figure 
appeared  at  the  doorway.  It  was  that  of  a very  old  man, 
with  long  white  hair,  which  escaped  from  beneath  the  eaves 
of  an  exceedingly  high-peaked  hat.  He  stooped  consider- 
ably, and  moved  along  with  a shambling  gait.  I could  not 


411 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

see  much  of  his  face,  which,  as  the  landlady  stood  behind  him 
with  the  lamp,  was  consequently  in  deep  shadow.  I could 
observe,  however,  that  his  eyes  sparkled  like  those  of  a ferret. 
He  advanced  to  the  foot  of  the  bed,  in  which  I was  still 
lying,  wondering  what  this  strange  visit  could  mean;  and 
there  he  stood  gazing  at  me  for  a minute,  at  least,  without 
uttering  a syllable.  Suddenly,  however,  he  protruded  a 
spare  skinny  hand  from  the  cloak  in  which  it  had  hitherto 
been  enveloped,  and  pointed  with  a short  staff,  tipped  with 
metal,  in  the  direction  of  my  face,  as  if  he  were  commencing 
an  exorcism.  He  appeared  to  be  about  to  speak,  but  his 
words,  if  he  intended  any,  were  stifled  in  their  birth  by  a 
sudden  sternutation  which  escaped  him,  and  which  was  so 
violent  that  the  hostess  started  back,  exclaiming,  “ Ave 
Maria  purissima!  ” and  nearly  dropped  the  lamp  in  her 
alarm. 

“ My  good  person,”  said  I,  “ what  do  you  mean  by  this 
foolish  hobgoblinry?  If  you  have  anything  to  communicate 
do  so  at  once,  and  go  about  your  business.  I am  unwell,  and 
you  are  depriving  me  of  my  repose.” 

“ By  the  virtue  of  this  staff,”  said  the  old  man,  “ and 
the  authority  which  it  gives  me  to  do  and  say  that  which 
is  convenient,  I do  command,  order,  and  summon  you 
to  appear  to-morrow,  at  the  eleventh  hour  at  the  office  of  my 
lord  the  corregidor  of  this  village  of  Madrid,  in  order  that, 
standing  before  him  humbly,  and  with  befitting  reverence, 
you  may  listen  to  whatever  he  may  have  to  say,  or  if  neces- 
sary, may  yield  yourself  up  to  receive  the  castigation  of  any 
crimes  which  you  may  have  committed,  whether  trivial 
or  enormous.  Tenez , compere ,”  he  added,  in  most  villain- 
ous French,  44  voila  mon  affaire  ; voila  ce  que  je  viens  vous 
dire” 

Thereupon  he  glared  at  me  for  a moment,  nodded  his 
head  twice,  and  replacing  his  staff  beneath  his  cloak, 
shambled  out  of  the  room,  and  with  a valedictory  sneeze 
in  the  passage  left  the  house. 

Precisely  at  eleven  on  the  following  day,  I attended 
at  the  office  of  the  corregidor.  He  was  not  the  individual 
whose  anger  I had  incurred  on  a former  occasion,  and  who 
had  thought  proper  to  imprison  me,  but  another  person,  I 
believe  a Catalan,  whose  name  I have  also  forgotten. 
Indeed,  these  civil  employments  were  at  this  period  given 
to-day  and  taken  away  to-morrow,  so  that  the  person  who 
held  one  of  them  for  a month  might  consider  himself  a 
functionary  of  long  standing.  I was  not  kept  waiting  a 
moment,  but  as  soon  as  I had  announced  myself,  was  forth- 
with ushered  into  the  presence  of  the  corregidor,  a good- 
looking,  portly,  and  well-dressed  personage,  seemingly  about 


412 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

fifty.  He  was  writing  at  a desk  when  I entered,  but  almost 
immediately  arose  and  came  towards  me.  He  looked  me 
full  in  the  face,  and  I,  nothing  abashed,  kept  my  eyes  fixed 
upon  his.  He  had,  perhaps,  expected  a less  independent 
bearing,  and  that  I should  have  quaked  and  crouched  before 
him;  but  now,  conceiving  himself  bearded  in  his  own  den, 
his  old  Spanish  leaven  was  forthwith  stirred  up.  He  plucked 
his  whiskers  fiercely.  “ Escuchad,”  said  he,  casting  upon 
me  a ferocious  glance,  “ I wish  to  ask  you  a question.” 

“ Before  I answer  any  question  of  your  excellency,” 
said  I,  “ I shall  take  the  liberty  of  putting  one  myself. 
What  law  or  reason  is  there  that  I,  a peaceable  individual 
and  a foreigner,  should  have  my  rest  disturbed  by  duendes 
and  hobgoblins  sent  at  midnight  to  summon  me  to  appear 
at  public  offices  like  a criminal?  ” 

“ You  do  not  speak  the  truth,”  shouted  the  corregidor; 
“ the  person  sent  to  summon  you  was  neither  duende  nor 
hobgoblin,  but  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  respectable 
officers  of  this  casa,  and  so  far  from  being  dispatched  at 
midnight,  it  wanted  twenty-five  minutes  to  that  hour  by  my 
own  watch  when  he  left  this  office,  and  as  your  lodging  is 
not  distant,  he  must  have  arrived  there  at  least  ten  minutes 
before  midnight,  so  that  you  are  by  no  means  accurate,  and 
are  found  wanting  in  regard  to  truth.” 

“ A distinction  without  a difference,”  I replied.  " For 
my  own  part,  if  I am  to  be  disturbed  in  my  sleep,  it  is  of 
little  consequence  whether  at  midnight  or  ten  minutes 
before  that  time;  and  with  respect  to  your  messenger, 
although  he  might  not  be  a hobgoblin,  he  had  all  the  ap- 
pearance of  one,  and  assuredly  answered  the  purpose,  by 
frightening  the  woman  of  the  house  almost  into  fits  by  his 
hideous  grimaces  and  sneezing  convulsions.” 

Corregidor. — You  are  a — I know  not  what.  Do  you 
know  that  I have  the  power  to  imprison  you? 

Myself. — You  have  twenty  alguazils  at  your  beck  and 
call,  and  have  of  course  the  power,  and  so  had  your  pre- 
decessor, who  nearly  lost  his  situation  by  imprisoning 
me ; but  you  know  full  well  that  you  have  not  the  right,  as  I 
am  not  under  your  jurisdiction,  but  that  of  the  captain- 
general.  If  I have  obeyed  your  summons,  it  was  simply 
because  I had  a curiosity  to  know  what  you  wanted  with  me, 
and  from  no  other  motive  whatever.  As  for  imprisoning 
me,  I beg  leave  to  assure  you,  that  you  have  my  full  consent 
to  do  so;  the  most  polite  society  in  Madrid  is  to  be  found  in 
the  prison,  and  as  I am  at  present  compiling  a vocabulary 
of  the  language  of  the  Madrilenian  thieves,  I should  have, 
in  being  imprisoned,  an  excellent  opportunity  of  com- 
pleting it.  There  is  much  to  be  learnt  even  in  the  prison, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  413 

for,  as  the  Gypsies  say,  “ The  dog  that  trots  about  finds  a 
bone.” 

Corregidor. — Your  words  are  not  those  of  a Caballero. 
Do  you  forget  where  you  are,  and  in  whose  presence?  Is 
this  a fitting  place  to  talk  of  thieves  and  Gypsies  in? 

Myself. — Really  I know  of  no  place  more  fitting,  unless 
it  be  the  prison.  But  we  are  wasting  time,  and  I am 
anxious  to  know  for  what  I have  been  summoned;  whether 
for  crimes  trivial  or  enormous,  as  the  messenger  said. 

It  was  a long  time  before  I could  obtain  the  required 
information  from  the  incensed  corregidor;  at  last,  however, 
it  came.  It  appeared  that  a box  of  Testaments,  which  I had 
despatched  to  Naval  Carnero,  had  been  seized  by  the  local 
authorities,  and  having  been  detained  there  for  some  time, 
was  at  last  sent  back  to  Madrid,  intended  as  it  now  ap- 
peared, for  the  hands  of  the  corregidor.  One  day  as  it  was 
lying  at  the  waggon-office,  Antonio  chanced  to  enter  on 
some  business  of  his  own  and  recognised  the  box,  which  he 
instantly  claimed  as  my  property,  and  having  paid  the 
carriage,  removed  it  to  my  warehouse.  He  had  considered 
the  matter  as  of  so  little  importance,  that  he  had  not  as  yet 
mentioned  it  to  me.  The  poor  corregidor,  however,  had  no 
doubt  that  it  was  a deep-laid  scheme  to  plunder  and  insult 
him.  And  now,  working  himself  up  into  almost  a frenzy  of 
excitement,  he  stamped  on  the  ground,  exclaiming,  “ Que 
picardia  ! Que  infamia  ! ” 

The  old  system,  thought  I,  of  prejudging  people  and 
imputing  to  them  motives  and  actions  of  which  they  never 
dreamed.  I then  told  him  frankly  that  I was  entirely 
ignorant  of  the  circumstance  by  which  he  had  felt  himself 
aggrieved;  but  that  if  upon  inquiry  I found  that  the  chest 
had  actually  been  removed  by  my  servant  from  the  office 
to  which  it  had  been  forwarded,  I would  cause  it  forthwith 
to  be  restored,  although  it  was  my  own  property.  “ I have 
plenty  more  Testaments,”  said  I,  “ and  can  afford  to  lose 
fifty  or  a hundred.  I am  a man  of  peace,  and  wish  not  to 
have  any  dispute  with  the  authorities  for  the  sake  of  an  old 
chest  and  a cargo  of  books,  whose  united  value  would 
scarcely  amount  to  forty  dollars.” 

He  looked  at  me  for  a moment,  as  if  in  doubt  of  my 
sincerity,  then,  again  plucking  his  whiskers,  he  forthwith 
proceeded  to  attack  me  in  another  quarter:  “ Pero  que 
infamia , que  picardia  ! to  come  into  Spain  for  the  purpose 
of  overturning  the  religion  of  the  country.  What  would 
you  say  if  the  Spaniards  were  to  go  to  England  and  attempt 
to  overturn  the  Lutheranism  established  there?  ” 

“ They  would  be  most  heartily  welcome,”  I replied; 
“ more  especially  if  they  would  attempt  to  do  so  by  cir- 


414 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

culating  the  Bible,  the  book  of  Christians,  even  as  the 
English  are  doing  in  Spain.  But  your  excellency  is  not 
perhaps  aware  that  the  Pope  has  a fair  field  and  fair  play  in 
England,  and  is  permitted  to  make  as  many  converts  from 
Lutheranism  every  day  in  the  week  as  are  disposed  to  go 
over  to  him.  He  cannot  boast,  however,  of  much  success; 
the  people  are  too  fond  of  light  to  embrace  darkness,  and 
would  smile  at  the  idea  of  exchanging  their  gospel  privileges 
for  the  superstitious  ceremonies  and  observances  of  the 
church  of  Rome.,> 

On  my  repeating  my  promise  that  the  books  and  chest 
should  be  forthwith  restored,  the  corregidor  declared 
himself  satisfied,  and  all  of  a sudden  became  excessively 
polite  and  condescending:  he  even  went  so  far  as  to  say  that 
he  left  it  entirely  with  myself,  whether  to  return  the  books 
or  not;.  “ and,”  continued  he,  “ before  you  go,  I wish  to 
tell  you  that  my  private  opinion  is,  that  it  is  highly  ad- 
visable in  all  countries  to  allow  full  and  perfect  tolerance  in 
religious  matters,  and  to  permit  every  religious  system  to 
stand  or  fall  according  to  its  own  merits.” 

Such  were  the  concluding  words  of  the  corregidor  of 
Madrid,  which,  whether  they  expressed  his  private  opinion 
or  not,  were  certainly  grounded  on  sense  and  reason.  I 
saluted  him  respectfully  and  retired,  and  forthwith  per- 
formed my  promise  with  regard  to  the  books;  and  thus 
terminated  this  affair. 

It  almost  appeared  to  me  at  this  time,  that  a religious 
reform  was  commencing  in  Spain;  indeed,  matters  had  of 
late  come  to  my  knowledge,  which,  had  they  been  pro- 
phesied only  a year  before,  I should  have  experienced  much 
difficulty  in  believing. 

The  reader  will  be  surprised  when  I state  that  in  two 
churches  of  Madrid  the  New  Testament  was  regularly  ex- 
pounded every  Sunday  evening  by  the  respective  curates, 
to  about  twenty  children  who  attended,  and  who  were  all 
provided  with  copies  of  the  Society's  edition  of  Madrid, 
1837.  The  churches  which  I allude  to,  were  those  of  San 
Gines  and  Santo  Cruz.  Now  I humbly  conceive  that  this 
fact  alone  is  more  than  equivalent  to  all  the  expense  which  the 
Society  had  incurred  in  the  efforts  which  it  had  been  making 
to  introduce  the  Gospel  into  Spain;  but  be  this  as  it  may,  I 
am  certain  that  it  amply  recompensed  me  for  all  the  anxiety 
and  unhappiness  which  I had  undergone.  I now  felt  that 
whenever  I should  be  compelled  to  discontinue  my  labours 
in  the  Peninsula,  I should  retire  without  the  slightest 
murmur,  my  heart  being  filled  with  gratitude  to  the  Lord 
for  having  permitted  me,  useless  vessel  as  I was,  to  see  at 
least  some  of  the  seed  springing  up,  which  during  two  years 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  415 

I had  been  casting  on  the  stony  ground  of  the  interior  of 
Spain. 

When  I recollected  the  difficulties  which  had  encompassed 
our  path,  I could  sometimes  hardly  credit  all  that  the  Almighty 
had  permitted  us  to  accomplish  within  the  last  year.  A 
large  edition  of  the  New  Testament  had  been  almost  entirely 
disposed  of  in  the  very  centre  of  Spain,  in  spite  of  the  op- 
position and  the  furious  cry  of  the  sanguinary  priesthood 
and  the  edicts  of  a deceitful  government,  and  a spirit  of 
religious  inquiry  excited,  which  I had  fervent  hope  would 
sooner  or  later  lead  to  blessed  and  most  important  results. 
Till  of  late  the  name  most  abhorred  and  dreaded  in  these 
parts  of  Spain,  was  that  of  Martin  Luther,  who  was  in 
general  considered  as  a species  of  demon,  a cousin-german 
to  Belial  and  Beelzebub,  who,  under  the  guise  of  a man, 
wrote  and  preached  blasphemy  against  the  Highest;  yet, 
now  strange  to  say,  this  once  abominated  personage  was 
spoken  of  with  no  slight  degree  of  respect.  People 
with  Bibles  in  their  hands  not  unfrequently  visited  me, 
inquiring  with  much  earnestness,  and  with  no  slight  degree 
of  simplicity,  for  the  writings  of  the  great  Doctor  Martin, 
whom,  indeed,  some  supposed  to  be  still  alive. 

It  will  be  as  well  here  to  observe,  that  of  all  the  names 
connected  with  the  Reformation,  that  of  Luther  is  the  only 
one  known  in  Spain;  and  let  me  add,  that  no  controversial 
writings  but  his  are  likely  to  be  esteemed  as  possessing  the 
slightest  weight  or  authority,  however  great  their  intrinsic 
merit  may  be.  The  common  description  of  tracts,  written 
with  the  view  of  exposing  the  errors  of  popery,  are  therefore 
not  calculated  to  prove  of  much  benefit  in  Spain,  though  it 
is  probable  that  much  good  might  be  accomplished  by  well- 
executed  translations  of  judicious  selections  from  the  works 
of  Luther. 


CHAPTER  XLVIII 

Projected  Journey — A Scene  of  Blood — The  Friar — Seville — Beauties  of 
Seville — Orange  Trees  and  Flowers — Murillo — The  Guardian  Angel 
— Dionysius — My  Coadjutors — Demand  for  the  Bible. 

By  the  middle  of  April  I had  sold  as  many  Testaments  as  I 
thought  Madrid  would  bear;  I therefore  called  in  my  people, 
for  I was  afraid  to  overstock  the  market,  and  to  bring  the 
book  into  contempt  by  making  it  too  common.  I had, 
indeed,  by  this  time,  barely  a thousand  copies  remaining  of 
the  edition  which  I had  printed  two  years  previously;  and 


416 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

with  respect  to  Bibles,  every  copy  was  by  this  time  disposed 
of,  though  there  was  still  a great  demand  for  them,  which, 
of  course,  I was  unable  to  satisfy. 

With  the  remaining  copies  of  the  Testament,  I now  de- 
termined to  betake  myself  to  Seville,  where  little  had 
hitherto  been  effected  in  the  way  of  circulation:  my 

preparations  were  soon  made.  The  roads  were  at  this  time 
in  a highly  dangerous  state,  on  which  account  I thought 
to  go  along  with  a convoy,  which  was  about  to  start  for 
Andalusia.  Two  days,  however,  before  its  departure, 
understanding  that  the  number  of  people  who  likewise 
proposed  to  avail  themselves  of  it  was  likely  to  be  very 
great,  and  reflecting  on  the  slowness  of  this  way  of  travelling, 
and  moreover  the  insults  to  which  civilians  were  frequently 
subjected  from  the  soldiers  and  petty  officers,  I determined 
to  risk  the  journey  with  the  mail.  This  resolution  I 
carried  into  effect.  Antonio,  whom  I had  resolved  to  take 
with  me,  and  my  two  horses,  departed  with  the  convoy, 
whilst  in  a few  days  I followed  with  the  mail  courier.  We 
travelled  all  the  way  without  the  slightest  accident,  my 
usual  wonderful  good  fortune  accompanying  us.  I might 
well  call  it  wonderful,  for  I was  running  into  the  den  of  the 
lion;  the  whole  of  La  Mancha,  with  the  exception  of  a few 
fortified  places,  being  once  more  in  the  hands  of  Palillos 
and  his  banditti,  who,  whenever  it  pleased  them,  stopped 
the  courier,  burnt  the  vehicle  and  letters,  murdered  the 
paltry  escort,  and  carried  away  any  chance  passenger  to  the 
mountains,  where  an  enormous  ransom  was  demanded,  the 
alternative  being  four  shots  through  the  head,  as  the 
Spaniards  say. 

The  upper  part  of  Andalusia  was  becoming  rapidly 
nearly  as  bad  as  La  Mancha.  The  last  time  the  mail  had 
passed,  it  was  attacked  at  the  defile  of  La  Rumblar  by  six 
mounted  robbers;  it  was  guarded  by  an  escort  of  as  many 
soldiers,  but  the  former  suddenly  galloped  from  behind  a 
solitary  venda,  and  dashed  the  soldiers  to  the  ground,  who 
were  taken  quite  by  surprise,  the  hoofs  of  the  robbers’ 
horses  making  no  noise  on  account  of  the  sandy  nature  of  the 
ground.  The  soldiers  were  instantly  disarmed  and  bound 
to  olive  trees,  with  the  exception  of  two,  who  escaped 
amongst  the  rocks ; they  were  then  mocked  and  tormented 
by  the  robbers,  or  rather  fiends,  for  nearly  half  an  hour, 
when  they  were  shot;  the  head  of  the  corporal  who  com- 
manded being  blown  to  fragments  with  a blunderbuss.  The 
robbers  then  burned  the  coach,  which  they  accomplished 
by  igniting  the  letters  by  means  of  the  tow  with  which  they 
light  their  cigars.  The  life  of  the  courier  was  saved  by 
one  of  them,  who  had  formerly  been  his  postillion;  he  was, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


417 


however,  robbed  and  stripped.  As  we  passed  by  the  scene 
of  the  butchery,  the  poor  fellow  wept,  and,  though  a 
Spaniard,  cursed  Spain  and  the  Spaniards,  saying  that  he 
intended  shortly  to  pass  over  to  the  Moreria,  to  confess 
Mahomet,  and  to  learn  the  law  of  the  Moors,  for  that  any 
country  and  religion  were  better  than  his  own.  He  pointed 
to  the  tree  where  the  corporal  had  been  tied;  though  much 
rain  had  fallen  since,  the  ground  around  was  still  saturated 
with  blood,  and  a dog  was  gnawing  a piece  of  the  unfortunate 
wretch's  skull.  A friar  travelled  with  us  the  whole  way 
from  Madrid  to  Seville;  he  was  of  the  missionaries,  and  was 
going  to  the  Philippine  islands,  to  conquer  ( para  conquistar), 
for  such  was  his  word,  by  which  I suppose  he  meant  preach- 
ing to  the  Indians.  During  the  whole  journey  he  exhibited 
every  symptom  of  the  most  abject  fear,  which  operated 
upon  him  so  that  he  became  deadly  sick,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  twice  in  the  road  and  lay  him  amongst  the 
green  corn.  He  said  that  if  he  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
factious,  he  was  a lost  priest,  for  that  they  would  first  make 
him  say  mass,  and  then  blow  him  up  with  gunpowder.  He 
had  been  professor  of  philosophy,  as  he  told  me,  in  one  of  the 
convents  (I  think  it  was  San  Thomas)  of  Madrid  before  their 
suppression,  but  appeared  to  be  grossly  ignorant  of  the 
Scriptures,  which  he  confounded  with  the  works  of  Virgil. 

We  stopped  at  Manzanares  as  usual;  it  was  Sunday 
morning,  and  the  market-place  was  crowded  with  people. 
I was  recognised  in  a moment,  and  twenty  pair  of  legs 
instantly  hurried  away  in  quest  of  the  prophetess,  who 
presently  made  her  appearance  in  the  house  to  which  we 
had  retired  to  breakfast.  After  many  greetings  on  both 
sides,  she  proceeded,  in  her  Latin,  to  give  me  an  account  of 
all  that  had  occurred  in  the  village  since  I had  last  been 
there,  and  of  the  atrocities  of  the  factious  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. I asked  her  to  breakfast,  and  introduced  her  to  the 
friar,  whom  she  addressed  in  this  manner:  “ Anne  Domine 
Reverendissime  jacis  adhuc  sacriflcium  ? ” But  the  friar  did 
not  understand  her,  and  waxing  angry,  anathematized  her 
for  a witch,  and  bade  her  begone.  She  was,  however,  not  to 
be  disconcerted,  and  commenced  singing,  in  extemporary 
Castilian  verse,  the  praises  of  friars  and  religious  houses  in 
general.  On  departing  I gave  her  a peseta,  upon  which  she 
burst  into  tears,  and  intreated  that  I would  write  to  her  if  I 
reached  Seville  in  safety. 

We  did  arrive  at  Seville  in  safety,  and  I took  leave  of 
the  friar,  telling  him  that  I hoped  to  meet  him  again  at 
Philippi.  As  it  was  my  intention  to  remain  at  Seville  for 
some  months,  I determined  to  hire  a house,  in  which  I 
conceived  I could  live  with  more  privacy,  and  at  the  same 
33—o 


418 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


time  more  economically  than  in  a posada.  It  was  not 
long  before  I found  one  in  every  respect  suited  to  me.  It 
was  situated  in  the  Plazuela  de  la  Pila  Seca,  a retired  part 
of  the  city,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  cathedral,  and  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  gate  of  Xeres ; and  in  this  house,  on 
the  arrival  of  Antonio  and  the  horses,  which  occurred 
within  a few  days,  I took  up  my  abode. 

I was  now  once  more  in  beautiful  Seville  and  had  soon 
ample  time  and  leisure  to  enjoy  its  delights  and  those  of  the 
surrounding  country;  unfortunately,  at  the  time  of  my 
arrival,  and  indeed  for  the  next  ensuing  fortnight,  the 
heaven  of  Andalusia,  in  general  so  glorious,  was  overcast 
with  black  clouds,  which  discharged  tremendous  showers 
of  rain,  such  as  few  of  the  Sevillians,  according  to  their  own 
account,  had  ever  seen  before.  This  extraordinary  weather 
had  wrought  no  little  damage  in  the  neighbourhood, 
causing  the  Guadalquivir,  which,  during  the  rainy  season, 
is  a rapid  and  furious  stream,  to  overflow  its  banks  and  to 
threaten  an  inundation.  It  is  true  that  intervals  were 
occurring  when  the  sun  made  his  appearance  from  his 
cloudy  tabernacle,  and  with  his  golden  rays  caused  every- 
thing around  to  smile,  enticing  the  butterfly  forth  from  the 
bush,  and  the  lizard  from  the  hollow  tree,  and  I invariably 
availed  myself  of  these  intervals  to  take  a hasty  promenade. 

O how  pleasant  it  is,  especially  in  springtide,  to  stray 
along  the  shores  of  the  Guadalquivir.  Not  far  from  the 
city,  down  the  river,  lies  a grove  called  Las  Delicias,  or  the 
Delights.  It  consists  of  trees  of  various  kinds,  but  more 
especially  of  poplars  and  elms,  and  is  traversed  by  long  i 
shady  walks.  This  grove  is  the  favourite  promenade  of  the 
Sevillians,  and  there  one  occasionally  sees  assembled  what- 
ever the  town  produces  of  beauty  or  gallantry.  There 
wander  the  black-eyed  Andalusian  dames  and  damsels, 
clad  in  their  graceful  silken  mantillas;  and  there  gallops 
the  Andalusian  cavalier,  on  his  long-tailed  thick-maned  steed 
of  Moorish  ancestry.  As  the  sun  is  descending,  it  is  enchant- 
ing to  glance  back  from  this  place  in  the  direction  of  the  < 
city;  the  prospect  is  inexpressibly  beautiful.  Yonder  in 
the  distance,  high  and  enormous,  stands  the  Golden  Tower, 
now  used  as  a toll-house,  but  the  principal  bulwark  of  the 
city  in  the  time  of  the  Moors.  It  stands  on  the  shore  of  the 
river,  like  a giant  keeping  watch,  and  is  the  first  edifice  which 
attracts  the  eye  of  the  voyager  as  he  moves  up  the  stream 
to  Seville.  On  the  other  side,  opposite  the  tower,  stands 
the  noble  Augustine  convent,  the  ornament  of  the  faubourg 
of  Triana,  whilst  between  the  two  edifices  rolls  the  broad 
Guadalquivir,  bearing  on  its  bosom  a flotilla  of  barks  from 
Catalonia  and  Valencia.  Farther  up  is  seen  the  bridge  of 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


419 


boats  which  traverses  the  water.  The  principal  object  of 
this  prospect,  however,  is  the  Golden  Tower,  where  the  beams 
of  the  setting  sun  seem  to  be  concentrated  as  in  a focus,  so 
that  it  appears  built  of  pure  gold,  and  probably  from  that 
circumstance  received  the  name  which  it  now  bears.  Cold, 
cold  must  the  heart  be  which  can  remain  insensible  to  the 
beauties  of  this  magic  scene,  to  do  justice  to  which  the  pencil 
of  Claude  himself  were  barely  equal.  Often  have  I shed  tears 
of  rapture  whilst  I beheld  it,  and  listened  to  the  thrush 
and  the  nightingale  piping  forth  their  melodious  songs  in  the 
woods,  and  inhaled  the  breeze  laden  with  the  perfume  of 
the  thousand  orange  gardens  of  Seville: 

“Kennst  du  das  land  wo  die  citronem  bluhen  ?” 

The  interior  of  Seville  scarcely  corresponds  with  the 
exterior:  the  streets  are  narrow,  badly  paved,  and  full  of 
misery  and  beggary.  The  houses  are  for  the  most  part 
built  in  the  Moorish  fashion,  with  a quadrangular  patio  or 
court  in  the  centre,  where  stands  a marble  fountain,  con- 
stantly distilling  limpid  water.  These  courts,  during  the 
time  of  the  summer  heats,  are  covered  over  with  a canvas 
awning,  and  beneath  this  the  family  sit  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  day.  In  many,  especially  those  belonging  to  the 
houses  of  the  wealthy,  are  to  be  found  shrubs,  orange  trees, 
and  all  kinds  of  flowers,  and  perhaps  a small  aviary,  so  that 
no  situation  can  be  conceived  more  delicious  than  to  lie  here 
in  the  shade,  hearkening  to  the  song  of  the  birds  and  the 
voice  of  the  fountain. 

Nothing  is  more  calculated  to  interest  the  stranger  as 
he  wanders  through  Seville,  than  a view  of  these  courts 
obtained  from  the  streets,  through  the  iron-grated  door. 
Oft  have  I stopped  to  observe  them,  and  as  often  sighed  that 
my  fate  did  not  permit  me  to  reside  in  such  an  Eden  for  the 
remainder  of  my  days.  On  a former  occasion,  I have  spoken 
of  the  cathedral  of  Seville,  but  only  in  a brief  and  cursory 
manner.  It  is  perhaps  the  most  magnificent  cathedral 
in  all  Spain,  and  though  not  so  regular  in  its  architecture 
as  those  of  Toledo  and  Burgos,  is  far  more  worthy  of  ad- 
miration when  considered  as  a whole.  It  is  utterly  im- 
possible to  wander  through  the  long  aisles,  and  to  raise  one's 
eyes  to  the  richly  inlaid  roof,  supported  by  colossal  pillars, 
without  experiencing  sensations  of  sacred  awe,  and  deep 
astonishment.  It  is  true  that  the  interior,  like  those  of  the 
generality  of  the  Spanish  cathedrals,  is  somewhat  dark  and 
gloomy;  yet  it  loses  nothing  by  this  gloom,  which,  on  the 
contrary,  rather  increases  the  solemnity  of  the  effect. 
Notre  Dame  of  Paris  is  a noble  building,  yet  to  him  who  has 
seen  the  Spanish  cathedrals,  and  particularly  this  of  Seville, 


420 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


it  almost  appears  trivial  and  mean,  and  more  like  a town- 
hall  than  a temple  of  the  Eternal.  The  Parisian  cathedral 
is  entirely  destitute  of  that  solemn  darkness  and  gloomy 
pomp  which  so  abound  in  the  Sevillian,  and  is  thus  destitute 
of  the  principal  requisite  to  a cathedral. 

In  most  of  the  chapels  are  to  be  found  some  of  the  very 
best  pictures  of  the  Spanish  school;  and  in  particular  many 
of  the  master-pieces  of  Murillo,  a native  of  Seville.  Of  all 
the  pictures  of  this  extraordinary  man,  one  of  the  least 
celebrated  is  that  which  has  always  wrought  on  me  the  most 
profound  impression.  I allude  to  the  Guardian  Angel 
{Angel  de  la  Guardia),  a small  picture  which  stands  at  the 
bottom  of  the  church,  and  looks  up  the  principal  aisle. 
The  angel,  holding  a flaming  sword  in  his  right  hand,  is 
conducting  the  child.  This  child  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  most 
wonderful  of  all  the  creations  of  Murillo;  the  form  is  that  of 
an  infant  about  five  years  of  age,  and  the  expression  of  the 
countenance  is  quite  infantine,  but  the  tread — it  is  the  tread 
of  a conqueror,  of  a God,  of  the  Creator  of  the  universe; 
and  the  earthly  globe  appears  to  tremble  beneath  its  majesty. 

The  service  of  the  cathedral  is  in  general  well  attended, 
especially  when  it  is  known  that  a sermon  is  to  be  preached. 
All  these  sermons  are  extemporaneous;  some  of  them  are 
edifying  and  faithful  to  the  Scriptures.  I have  often 
listened  to  them  with  pleasure,  though  I was  much  surprised 
to  remark,  that  when  the  preachers  quoted  from  the  Bible, 
their  quotations  were  almost  invariably  taken  from  the 
apocryphal  writings.  There  is  in  general  no  lack  of 
worshippers  at  the  principal  shrines — women  for  the  most 
part — many  of  whom  appear  to  be  animated  with  the  most 
fervent  devotion. 

I had  flattered  myself,  previous  to  my  departure  from 
Madrid,  that  I should  experience  but  little  difficulty  in  the 
circulation  of  the  Gospel  in  Andalusia,  at  least  for  a time, 
as  the  field  was  new,  and  myself  and  the  object  of  my  mission 
less  known  and  dreaded  than  in  New  Castile.  It  appeared, 
however,  that  the  government  at  Madrid  had  fulfilled  its 
threat,  transmitting  orders  throughout  Spain  for  the  seizure 
of  my  books  wherever  found.  The  Testaments  that  arrived 
from  Madrid  were  seized  at  the  custom-house,  to  which 
place  all  goods  on  their  arrival,  even  from  the  interior,  are 
carried,  in  order  that  a duty  be  imposed  upon  them.  Through 
the  management  of  Antonio,  however,  I procured  one  of  the 
two  chests,  whilst  the  other  was  sent  down  to  San  Lucar, 
to  be  embarked  for  a foreign  land  as  soon  as  I could  make 
arrangements  for  that  purpose. 

I did  not  permit  myself  to  be  discouraged  by  this  slight 
contretemps,  although  I heartily  regretted  the  loss  of  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


421 


books  which  had  been  seized,  and  which  I could  no  longer 
hope  to  circulate  in  these  parts,  where  they  were  so  much 
wanted;  but  I consoled  myself  with  the  reflection,  that  I 
had  still  several  hundred  at  my  disposal,  from  the  distribu- 
tion of  which,  if  it  pleased  the  Lord,  a blessed  harvest  might 
still  proceed. 

I did  not  commence  operations  for  some  time,  for  I was 
in  a strange  place,  and  scarcely  knew  what  course  to  pursue. 
I had  no  one  to  assist  me  but  poor  Antonio,  who  was  as 
ignorant  of  the  place  as  myself.  Providence,  however,  soon 
sent  me  a coadjutor,  in  rather  a singular  manner.  I was 
standing  in  the  courtyard  of  the  Reyna  Posada,  where  I 
occasionally  dined,  when  a man,  singularly  dressed  and 
gigantically  tall,  entered.  My  curiosity  was  excited,  and  I 
inquired  of  the  master  of  the  house  who  he  was.  He  in- 
formed me  that  he  was  a foreigner,  who  had  resided  a con- 
siderable time  in  Seville,  and  he  believed  a Greek.  Upon 
hearing  this,  I instantly  went  up  to  the  stranger,  and  ac- 
costed him  in  the  Greek  language,  in  which,  though  I speak 
it  very  ill,  I can  make  myself  understood.  He  replied  in 
the  same  idiom,  and,  flattered  by  the  interest  which  I, 
a foreigner,  expressed  for  his  nation,  was  not  slow  in  com- 
municating to  me  his  history.  He  told  me  that  his  name 
was  Dionysius,  that  he  was  a native  of  Cephalonia,  and  had 
been  educated  for  the  church,  which,  not  suiting  his  temper, 
he  had  abandoned,  in  order  to  follow  the  profession  of  the 
sea,  for  which  he  had  an  early  inclination.  That  after  many 
adventures  and  changes  of  fortune,  he  found  himself  one 
morning  on  the  coast  of  Spain,  a shipwrecked  mariner,  and 
that,  ashamed  to  return  to  his  own  country  in  poverty  and 
distress,  he  had  remained  in  the  Peninsula,  residing  chiefly 
at  Seville,  where  he  now  carried  on  a small  trade  in  books. 
He  said  that  he  was  of  the  Greek  religion,  to  which  he 
professed  strong  attachment,  and  soon  discovering  that  I 
was  a Protestant,  spoke  with  unbounded  abhorrence  of  the 
papal  system;  nay  of  its  followers  in  general,  whom  he  called 
Latins,  and  whom  he  charged  with  the  ruin  of  his  own 
country,  inasmuch  as  they  sold  it  to  the  Turk.  It  instantly 
struck  me,  that  this  individual  would  be  an  excellent 
assistant  in  the  work  which  had  brought  me  to  Seville, 
namely,  the  propagation  of  the  eternal  Gospel,  and  accord- 
ingly, after  some  more  conversation,  in  which  he  exhibited 
considerable  learning,  I explained  myself  to  him.  He 
entered  into  my  views  with  eagerness,  and  in  the  sequel 
I had  no  reason  to  regret  my  confidence,  he  having  disposed 
of  a considerable  number  of  New  Testaments,  and  even 
contrived  to  send  a certain  number  of  copies  to  two  small 
towns  at  some  distance  from  Seville. 


422 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Another  helper  in  the  circulation  of  the  Gospel  I found  in 
an  aged  professor  of  music,  who,  with  much  stiffness  and 
ceremoniousness,  united  much  that  was  excellent  and 
admirable.  This  venerable  individual,  only  three  days  after 
I had  made  his  acquaintance,  brought  me  the  price  of  six 
Testaments  and  a Gypsy  Gospel,  which  he  had  sold  under 
the  heat  of  an  Andalusian  sun.  What  was  his  motive? 
A Christian  one  truly.  He  said  that  his  unfortunate 
countrymen,  who  were  then  robbing  and  murdering  each 
other,  might  probably  be  rendered  better  by  the  reading  of 
the  Gospel,  but  could  never  be  injured.  Adding,  that  many 
a man  had  been  reformed  by  the  Scriptures,  but  that  no  one 
ever  yet  became  a thief  or  assassin  from  its  perusal. 

But  my  most  extraordinary  agent,  was  one  whom  I 
occasionally  employed  in  circulating  the  Scriptures  amongst 
the  lower  classes.  I might  have  turned  the  services  of  this 
individual  to  far  greater  account  had  the  quantity  of  books 
at  my  disposal  been  greater;  but  they  were  now  diminishing 
rapidly,  and  as  I had  no  hopes  of  a fresh  supply,  I was  almost 
tempted  to  be  niggard  of  the  few  which  remained.  This 
agent  was  a Greek  bricklayer,  by  name  Johannes  Chrysostom, 
who  had  been  introduced  to  me  by  Dionysius.  He  was 
a native  of  the  Morea,  but  had  been  upwards  of  thirty-five 
years  in  Spain,  so  that  he  had  almost  entirely  lost  his  native 
language.  Nevertheless,  his  attachment  to  his  own  country 
was  so  strong  that  he  considered  whatever  was  not  Greek 
as  utterly  barbarous  and  bad,  Though  entirely  destitute 
of  education,  he  had,  by  his  strength  of  character,  and  by  a 
kind  of  rude  eloquence  which  he  possessed,  obtained  such  a 
mastery  over  the  minds  of  the  labouring  classes  of  Seville, 
that  they  assented  to  almost  everything  he  said,  notwith- 
standing the  shocks  which  their  prejudices  were  continually 
receiving.  So  that,  although  he  was  a foreigner,  he  could 
at  any  time  have  become  the  Massaniello  of  Seville.  A more 
honest  creature  I never  saw,  and  I soon  found  that  if  I 
employed  him,  notwithstanding  his  eccentricities,  I might 
entertain  perfect  confidence  that  his  actions  would  be  no 
disparagement  to  the  book  he  vended. 

We  were  continually  pressed  for  Bibles,  which  of  course 
we  could  not  supply.  Testaments  were  held  in  compara- 
tively little  esteem.  I had  by  this  time  made  the  discovery 
of  a fact  which  it  would  have  been  well  had  I been  aware  of 
three  years  before;  but  we  live  and  learn.  I mean  the 
inexpediency  of  printing  Testaments,  and  Testaments  alone , 
for  Catholic  countries.  The  reason  is  plain:  the  Catholic, 
unused  to  Scripture  reading,  finds  a thousand  things  which 
he  cannot  possibly  understand  in  the  New  Testament,  the 
foundation  of  which  is  the  Old.  “ Search  the  Scriptures, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


423 


for  they  bear  witness  of  me,”  may  well  be  applied  to  this 
point.  It  may  be  replied,  that  New  Testaments  separate 
are  in  great  demand,  and  of  infinite  utility  in  England,  but 
England,  thanks  be  to  the  Lord,  is  not  a papal  country; 
and  though  an  English  labourer  may  read  a Testament, 
and  derive  from  it  the  most  blessed  fruit,  it  does  not  follow 
that  a Spanish  or  Italian  peasant  will  enjoy  similar  success, 
as  he  will  find  many  dark  things  with  which  the  other  is  well 
acquainted,  and  competent  to  understand,  being  versed 
in  the  Bible  history  from  his  childhood.  I confess,  however, 
that  in  my  summer  campaign  of  the  preceding  year,  I could 
not  have  accomplished  with  Bibles  what  Providence  per- 
mitted me  to  effect  with  Testaments,  the  former  being  far 
too  bulky  for  rural  journeys. 


CHAPTER  XL  IX 

The  Solitary  House — The  Dehesa — Johannes  Chrysostom — Manuel — 
Bookselling  at  Seville — Dionysius  and  the  Priests — Athens  and  Rome 
— Proselytism — Seizure  of  Testaments — Departure  from  Seville. 

I have  already  stated,  that  I had  hired  an  empty  house 
in  Seville,  wherein  I proposed  to  reside  for  some  months. 
It  stood  in  a solitary  situation,  occupying  one  side  of  a 
small  square.  It  was  built  quite  in  the  beautiful  taste  of 
Andalusia,  with  a court  paved  with  small  slabs  of  white  and 
blue  marble.  In  the  middle  of  this  court  was  a fountain  well 
supplied  with  the  crystal  lymph,  the  murmur  of  which,  as  it 
fell  from  its  slender  pillar  into  an  octangular  basin,  might  be 
heard  in  every  apartment.  The  house  itself  was  large  and 
spacious,  consisting  of  two  stories,  and  containing  room 
sufficient  for  at  least  ten  times  the  number  of  inmates  which 
now  occupied  it.  I generally  kept  during  the  day  in  the 
lower  apartments,  on  account  of  the  refreshing  coolness 
which  pervaded  them.  In  one  of  these  was  an  immense 
stone  water-trough,  ever  overflowing  with  water  from  the 
fountain,  in  which  I immersed  myself  every  morning.  Such 
were  the  premises  to  which,  after  having  provided  myself 
with  a few  indispensable  articles  of  furniture,  I now  re- 
treated with  Antonio  and  my  two  horses. 

I was  fortunate  in  the  possession  of  these  quadrupeds, 
inasmuch  as  it  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  enjoying  to  a 
greater  extent  the  beauties  of  the  surrounding  country. 
I know  of  few  things  in  this  life  more  delicious  than  a ride 
in  the  spring  or  summer  season  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Seville.  My  favourite  one  was  in  the  direction  of  Xerez, 


424 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


over  the  wide  Dehesa,  as  it  is  called,  which  extends  from 
Seville  to  the  gates  of  the  former  town,  a distance  of  nearly 
fifty  miles,  with  scarcely  a town  or  village  intervening.  The 
ground  is  irregular  and  broken,  and  is  for  the  most  part 
covered  with  that  species  of  brushwood  called  carrasco, 
amongst  which  winds  a bridle-path,  by  no  means  well 
defined,  chiefly  trodden  by  the  arrieros,  with  their  long  train 
of  mules  and  borricos.  It  is  here  that  the  balmy  air  of 
beautiful  Andalusia  is  to  be  inhaled  in  full  perfection. 
Aromatic  herbs  and  flowers  are  growing  in  abundance, 
diffusing  their  perfume  around.  Here  dark  and  gloomy 
cares  are  dispelled  as  if  by  magic  from  the  bosom,  as  the 
eyes  wander  over  the  prospect,  lighted  by  unequalled  sun- 
shine, in  which  gaily-painted  butterflies  wanton,  and  green 
and  golden  Salamanquesas  lie  extended,  enjoying  the 
luxurious  warmth,  and  occasionally  startling  the  traveller, 
by  springing  up  and  making  off  with  portentous  speed  to 
the  nearest  coverts,  whence  they  stare  upon  him  with 
their  sharp  and  lustrous  eyes.  I repeat,  that  it  is  impossible 
to  continue  melancholy  in  regions  like  these,  and  the 
ancient  Greeks  and  Romans  were  right  in  making  them 
the  site  of  their  Elysian  fields.  Most  beautiful  they  are 
even  in  their  present  desolation,  for  the  hand  of  man  has 
not  cultivated  them  since  the  fatal  era  of  the  expulsion  of 
the  Moors,  which  drained  Andalusia  of  at  least  two  thirds  of 
its  population. 

Every  evening  it  was  my  custom  to  ride  along  the 
Dedesa,  until  the  topmost  towers  of  Seville  were  no  longer 
in  sight.  I then  turned  about,  and  pressing  my  knees 
against  the  sides  of  Sidi  Habismilk,  my  Arabian,  the  fleet 
creature,  to  whom  spur  or  lash  had  never  been  applied, 
would  set  off  in  the  direction  of  the  town  with  the  speed 
of  a whirlwind,  seeming  in  his  headlong  course  to  devour 
the  ground  of  the  waste,  until  he  had  left  it  behind,  then 
dashing  through  the  elm-covered  road  of  the  Delicias,  his 
thundering  hoofs  were  soon  heard  beneath  the  vaulted 
archway  of  the  Puerta  de  Xerez,  and  in  another  moment 
he  would  stand  stone  still  before  the  door  of  my  solitary 
house  in  the  little  silent  square  of  the  Pila  Seca. 

It  is  eight  o'clock  at  night,  I am  returned  from  the 
Dehesa,  and  am  standing  on  the  sotea,  or  flat  roof  of  my 
house,  enjoying  the  cool  breeze.  Johannes  Chrysostom 
has  just  arrived  from  his  labour.  I have  not  spoken  to 
him,  but  I hear  him  below  in  the  court-yard,  detailing  to 
Antonio  the  progress  he  has  made  in  the  last  two  days.  He 
speaks  barbarous  Greek,  plentifully  interlarded  with 
Spanish  words ; but  I gather  from  his  discourse,  that  he  has 
already  sold  twelve  Testaments  among  his  fellow  labourers, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


425 


I hear  copper  coin  falling  on  the  pavement,  and  Antonio, 
who  is  not  of  a very  Christian  temper,  reproving  him  for 
not  having  brought  the  proceeds  of  the  sale  in  silver.  He 
now  asks  for  fifteen  more,  as  he  says  the  demand  is  be- 
coming great,  and  that  he  shall  have  no  difficulty  in  dis- 
posing of  them  in  the  course  of  the  morrow,  whilst  pursuing 
his  occupations.  Antonio  goes  to  fetch  them,  and  he  now 
stands  alone  by  the  marble  fountain,  singing  a wild  song, 
which  I believe  to  be  a hymn  of  his  beloved  Greek  church. 
Behold  one  of  the  helpers  which  the  Lord  has  sent  me  in  my 
Gospel  labours  on  the  shores  of  the  Guadalquivir. 

I lived  in  the  greatest  retirement  during  the  whole  time 
that  I passed  at  Seville,  spending  the  greater  part  of  each 
day  in  study,  or  in  that  half-dreamy  state  of  inactivity 
which  is  the  natural  effect  of  the  influence  of  a warm 
climate.  There  was  little  in  the  character  of  the  people 
around  to  induce  me  to  enter  much  into  society.  The 
higher  class  of  the  Andalusians  are  probably  upon  the  whole 
the  most  vain  and  foolish  of  human  beings,  with  a taste  for 
nothing  but  sensual  amusements,  foppery  in  dress,  and 
ribald  discourse.  Their  insolence  is  only  equalled  by  their 
meanness,  and  their  prodigality  by  their  avarice.  The 
lower  classes  are  a shade  or  two  better  than  their  superiors 
in  station:  little,  it  is  true,  can  be  said  for  the  tone  of  their 
morality;  they  are  overreaching,  quarrelsome,  and  re- 
vengeful, but  they  are  upon  the  whole  more  courteous,  and 
certainly  not  more  ignorant. 

The  Andalusians  are  in  general  held  in  the  lowest 
estimation  by  the  rest  of  the  Spaniards,  even  those  in 
opulent  circumstances  finding  some  difficulty  at  Madrid 
in  procuring  admission  into  respectable  society,  where,  if 
they  find  their  way,  they  are  invariably  the  objects  of  ridicule, 
from  the  absurd  airs  and  grimaces  in  which  they  indulge, — 
their  tendency  to  boasting  and  exaggeration,  their  curious 
accent,  and  the  incorrect  manner  in  which  they  speak  and 
pronounce  the  Castilian  language. 

In  a word,  the  Andalusians,  in  all  estimable  traits  of 
character,  are  as  far  below  the  other  Spaniards  as  the 
country  which  they  inhabit  is  superior  in  beauty  and  fertility 
to  the  other  provinces  of  Spain. 

Yet  let  it  not  for  a moment  be  supposed  that  I have  any 
intention  of  asserting,  that  excellent  and  estimable  indivi- 
duals are  not  to  be  found  amongst  the  Andalusians;  it  was 
amongst  them  that  I myself  discovered  one,  whom  I have  no 
hesitation  in  asserting  to  be  the  most  extraordinary  character 
that  has  ever  come  within  the  sphere  of  my  knowledge ; but 
this  was  no  scion  of  a noble  or  knightly  house,  “ no  wearer 
of  soft  clothing/’  no  sleek  highly-perfumed  personage,  none 


426 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


of  the  romanticos  who  walk  in  languishing  attitudes  about 
the  streets  of  Seville,  with  long  black  hair  hanging  upon  their 
shoulders  in  luxuriant  curls;  but  one  of  those  whom  the 
proud  and  unfeeling  style  the  dregs  of  the  populace,  a 
haggard,  houseless,  penniless  man,  in  rags  and  tatters: 
I allude  to  Manuel,  the — what  shall  I call  him? — seller  of 
lottery  tickets,  driver  of  death  carts,  or  poet  laureate  in 
Gypsy  songs?  I wonder  whether  thou  art  still  living,  my 
friend  Manuel;  thou  gentleman  of  Nature’s  forming — honest, 
pure-minded,  humble,  yet  dignified  being!  Art  thou  still 
wandering  through  the  courts  of  beautiful  Safacoro,  or  on 
the  banks  of  the  Len  Baro,  thine  eyes  fixed  in  vacancy, 
and  thy  mind  striving  to  recall  some  half-forgotten  couplet 
of  Luis  Lobo;  or  art  thou  gone  to  thy  long  test,  out  beyond 
the  Xeres  gate  within  the  wall  of  the  Campo  Santo,  to  which 
in  times  of  pest  and  sickness  thou  wast  wont  to  carry  so 
many,  Gypsy  and  Gentile,  in  thy  cart  of  the  tinkling  bell? 
Oft  in  the  reunions  of  the  lettered  and  learned  in  this  land 
of  universal  literature,  when  weary  of  the  display  of 
pedantry  and  egotism,  have  I recurred  with  yearning  to  our 
Gypsy  recitations  at  the  old  house  in  the  Pila  Seca.  Oft, 
when  sickened  by  the  high-wrought  professions  of  those 
who  bear  the  cross  in  gilded  chariots,  have  I thought  on 
thee,  thy  calm  faith,  without  pretence, — thy  patience  in 
poverty,  and  fortitude  in  affliction;  and  as  oft  when 
thinking  of  my  speedily  approaching  end,  have  I wished 
that  I might  meet  thee  once  again,  and  that  thy  hands 
might  help  to  bear  me  to  “ the  dead  man’s  acre  ” yonder  on 
the  sunny  plain,  O Manuel ! 

My  principal  visitor  was  Dionysius,  who  seldom  failed 
to  make  his  appearance  every  forenoon:  the  poor  fellow 
came  for  sympathy  and  conversation.  It  is  difficult  to 
imagine  a situation  more  forlorn  and  isolated  than  that  of 
this  man, — a Greek  at  Seville,  with  scarcely  a single  ac- 
quaintance, and  depending  for  subsistence  on  the  miserable 
pittance  to  be  derived  from  selling  a few  books,  for  the  most 
part  hawked  about  from  door  to  door.  “ What  could  have 
first  induced  you  to  commence  bookselling  in  Seville?  ” 
said  I to  him,  as  he  arrived  one  sultry  day,  heated  and 
fatigued,  with  a small  bundle  of  books  secured  together  by 
a leather  strap. 

Dionysius. — For  want  of  a better  employment,  Kyrie, 
I have  adopted  this  most  unprofitable  and  despised  one. 
Oft  have  I regretted  not  having  been  bred  up  as  a shoe- 
maker, or  having  learnt  in  my  youth  some  other  useful 
handicraft,  for  gladly  would  I follow  it  now.  Such,  at 
least,  would  procure  me  the  respect  of  my  fellow-creatures 
inasmuch  as  they  needed  me;  but  now  all  avoid  me  and 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


427 


look  upon  me  with  contempt;  for  what  have  I to  offer  in 
this  place  that  any  one  cares  about?  Books  in  Seville! 
where  no  one  reads,  or  at  least  nothing  but  new  romances, 
translated  from  the  French,  and  obscenity.  Books! 
Would  I were  a Gypsy  and  could  trim  donkeys,  for  then  I 
were  at  least  independent  and  were  more  respected  than  I 
am  at  present. 

Myself. — Of  what  kind  of  books  does  your  stock  in 
trade  consist? 

Dionysius. — Of  those  not  likely  to  suit  the  Seville 
market,  Kyrie;  books  of  sterling  and  intrinsic  value; 
many  of  them  in  ancient  Greek,  which  I picked  up  upon 
the  dissolution  of  the  convents,  when  the  contents  of  the 
libraries  were  hurled  into  the  court-yards,  and  there  sold 
by  the  arrobe.  I thought  at  first  that  I was  about  to  make 
a fortune,  and  in  fact  my  books  would  be  so  in  any  other 
place;  but  here  I have  offered  an  Elzevir  for  half  a dollar 
in  vain.  I should  starve  were  it  not  for  the  strangers  who 
occasionally  purchase  of  me. 

Myself. — Seville  is  a large  cathedral  city,  abounding 
with  priests  and  canons;  surely  one  of  these  occasionally 
visit  you  to  make  purchases  of  classic  works,  and  books 
connected  with  ecclesiastical  literature. 

Dionysius. — If  you  think  so,  Kyrie,  you  know  little 
respecting  the  ecclesiastics  of  Seville.  I am  acquainted 
with  many  of  them,  and  can  assure  you  that  a tribe  of 
beings  can  scarcely  be  found  with  a more  confirmed  aversion 
to  intellectual  pursuits  of  every  kind.  Their  reading  is 
confined  to  newspapers,  which  they  take  up  in  the  hope  of 
seeing  that  their  friend  Don  Carlos  is  at  length  reinstated 
at  Madrid;  but  they  prefer  their  chocolate  and  biscuits,  and 
nap  before  dinner,  to  the  wisdom  of  Plato  and  the  eloquence 
of  Tully.  They  occasionally  visit  me,  but  it  is  only  to  pass 
away  a heavy  hour  in  chattering  nonsense.  Once  on  a 
time,  three  of  them  came,  in  the  hope  of  making  me  a 
convert  to  their  Latin  superstition.  “ Signior  Donatio,” 
said  they,  (for  so  they  called  me,)  “ how  is  it  that  an  un- 
prejudiced person  like  yourself,  a man  really  with  some 
pretension  to  knowledge,  can  still  cling  to  this  absurd 
religion  of  yours?  Surely,  after  having  resided  so  many 
years  in  a civilised  country  like  this  of  Spain,  it  is  high  time 
to  abandon  your  half-pagan  form  of  worship,  and  to  enter 
the  bosom  of  the  church;  now  pray  be  advised,  and  you 
shall  be  none  the  worse  for  it.”  “ Thank  you,  gentlemen,” 
I replied,  “ for  the  interest  you  take  in  my  welfare;  I am 
always  open  to  conviction;  let  us  proceed  to  discuss  the 
subject.  What  are  the  points  of  my  religion  which  do  not 
meet  your  approbation?  You  are  of  course  well  acquainted 


428 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


with  all  our  dogmas  and  ceremonies.”  “ We  know  nothing 
about  your  religion,  Signior  Donatio,  save  that  it  is  a very 
absurd  one,  and  therefore  it  is  incumbent  upon  you,  as  an 
unprejudiced  and  well-informed  man,  to  renounce  it.” 
“ But,  gentlemen,  if  you  know  nothing  of  my  religion,  why 
call  it  absurd?  Surely  it  is  not  the  part  of  unprejudiced 
people  to  disparage  that  of  which  they  are  ignorant.”  “ But, 
Signior  Donatio,  it  is  not  the  Catholic  Apostolic  Roman 
religion,  is  it?  ” “ It  may  be,  gentlemen,  for  what  you 

appear  to  know  of  it;  for  your  information,  however,  I 
will  tell  you  that  it  is  not;  it  is  the  Greek  Apostolic  religion. 
I do  not  calf  it  catholic,  for  it  is  absurd  to  call  that  catholic 
which  is  not  universally  acknowledged.”  “ But,  Signior 
Donatio,  does  not  the  matter  speak  for  itself?  What  can 
a set  of  ignorant  Greek  barbarians  know  about  religion? 
If  they  set  aside  the  authority  of  Rome,  whence  should  they 
derive  any  rational  ideas  of  religion?  whence  should 
they  get  the  gospel?”  “ The  Gospel,  gentlemen?  Allow 
me  to  show  you  a book,  here  it  is,  what  is  your  opinion  of 
it?  ” “ Signior  Donatio,  what  does  this  mean?  What 

characters  of  the  devil  are  these,  are  they  Moorish?  Who 
is  able  to  understand  them?  ” “ I suppose  your  worships, 

being  Roman  priests,  know  something  of  Latin;  if  you 
inspect  the  title-page  to  the  bottom,  you  will  find,  in  the 
language  of  your  own  church,  ‘ the  Gospel  of  our  Lord 
and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ/  in  the  original  Greek,  of 
which  your  vulgate  is  merely  a translation,  and  not  a very 
correct  one.  With  respect  to  the  barbarism  of  Greece, 
it  appears  that  you  are  not  aware  that  Athens  was  a city, 
and  a famed  one,  centuries  before  the  first  mud  cabin  of 
Rome  was  thatched,  and  the  Gypsy  vagabonds  who  first 
peopled  it,  had  escaped  from  the  hands  of  justice.” 
“ Signior  Donatio,  you  are  an  ignorant  heretic,,  and  in- 
solent withal,  what  nonsense  is  this  ! . . . But  I will 
not  weary  your  ears,  Kyrie,  with  all  the  absurdities  which 
the  poor  Latin  Papas  poured  into  mine;  the  burden  of 
their  song  being  invariably,  what  nonsense  is  this  ! which 
was  certainly  applicable  enough  to  what  they  themselves 
were  saying.  Seeing,  however,  that  I was  more  than  their 
match  in  religious  controversy,  they  fell  foul  of  my  country. 
“ Spain  is  a better  country  than  Greece,”  said  one.  “ You 
never  tasted  bread  before  you  came  to  Spain,”  cried  another. 
“ And  little  enough  since,”  thought  I.  “ You  never  before 
saw  such  a city  as  Seville,”  said  the  third.  But  then 
ensued  the  best  part  of  the  comedy u my  visitors  chanced 
to  be  natives  of  three  different  places;  one  was  of  Seville, 
another  of  Utrera,  and  the  third  of  Miguel  Turra,  a miserable 
village  in  La  Mancha.  At  the  mention  of  Seville,  the  other 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


429 


two  instantly  began  to  sing  the  praises  of  their  respective 
places  of  birth;  this  brought  on  comparisons,  and  a violent 
dispute  was  the  consequence.  Much  abuse  passed  between 
them,  whilst  I stood  by,  shrugged  my  shoulders,  and  said 
tipolas.*  At  last,  as  they  were  leaving  the  house,  I said, 
“ Who  would  have  thought,  gentlemen,  that  the  polemics 
of  the  Greek  and  Latin  churches  were  so  closely  connected 
with  the  comparative  merits  of  Seville,  Utrera,  and  Miguel 
Turra?  ” 

Myself. — Is  the  spirit  of  proselytism  very  prevalent 
here?  Of  what  description  of  people  do  their  converts 
generally  consist? 

Dionysius. — I will  tell  you,  Kyrie:  the  generality  of 
their  converts  consist  of  German  or  English  Protestant 
adventurers,  who  come  here  to  settle,  and  in  course  of  time 
take  to  themselves  wives  from  among  the  Spanish,  prior 
to  which  it  is  necessary  to  become  members  of  the  Latin 
church.  A few  are  vagabond  Jews,  from  Gibraltar  or 
Tangier,  who  have  fled  for  their  crimes  into  Spain,  and  who 
renounce  their  faith  to  escape  from  starvation.  These 
gentry,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  pay,  on  which  account 
the  priests  procure  for  them  padrinos  or  godfathers;  these 
generally  consist  of  rich  devotees  over  whom  the  priests 
have  influence,  and  who  esteem  it  a glory  and  a meritorious 
act  to  assist  in  bringing  back  lost  souls  to  the  church.  The 
neophyte  allows  himself  to  be  convinced  on  the  promise 
of  a peseta  a day,  which  is  generally  paid  by  the  godfathers 
for  the  first  year,  but  seldom  for  a longer  period.  About 
forty  years  ago,  however,  they  made  a somewhat  notable 
convert.  A civil  war  arose  in  Morocco,  caused  by  the 
separate  pretensions  of  two  brothers  to  the  throne.  One 
of  these  being  worsted,  fled  over  to  Spain,  imploring  the 
protection  of  Charles  the  Fourth.  He  soon  became  an 
object  of  particular  attention  to  the  priests,  who  were  not 
slow  in  converting  him,  and  induced  Charles  to  settle  upon 
him  a pension  of  a dollar  per  day.  He  died  some  few  years 
since  in  Seville,  a despised  vagabond.  He  left  behind  him 
a son,  who  is  at  present  a notary,  and  outwardly  very  devout, 
but  a greater  hypocrite  and  picaroon  does  not  exist.  I would 
you  could  see  his  face,  Kyrie,  it  is  that  of  Judas  Iscariot. 
I think  you  would  say  so,  for  you  are  a physiognomist. 
He  lives  next  door  to  me,  and  notwithstanding  his  pre- 
tensions to  religion,  is  permitted  to  remain  in  a state  of  great 
poverty. 

And  now  nothing  farther  for  the  present  about 
Dionysius. 

About  the  middle  of  July  our  work  was  concluded  at 

* Nothing  at  all. 


430 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Seville,  and  for  the  very  efficient  reason,  that  I had  no  more 
Testaments  to  sell;  somewhat  more  than  two  hundred 
having  been  circulated  since  my  arrival. 

About  ten  days  before  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking, 
I was  visited  by  various  alguazils,  accompanied  by  a kind 
of  headborough,  who  made  a small  seizure  of  Testaments 
and  Gypsy  Gospels,  which  happened  to  be  lying  about. 
This  visit  was  far  from  being  disagreeable  to  me,  as  I con- 
sidered it  to  be  a very  satisfactory  proof  of  the  effect  of  our 
exertions  in  Seville.  I cannot  help  here  relating  an  anecdote 
— A day  or  two  subsequent,  having  occasion  to  call  at  the 
house  of  the  headborough  respecting  my  passport,  I found 
him  lying  on  his  bed,  for  it  was  the  hour  of  siesta,  reading 
intently  one  of  the  Testaments  which  he  had  taken  away, 
all  of  which,  if  he  had  obeyed  his  orders,  would  have  been 
deposited  in  the  office  of  the  civil  governor.  So  intently, 
indeed,  was  he  engaged  in  reading,  that  he  did  not  at  first 
observe  my  entrance;  when  he  did,  however,  he  sprang  up 
in  great  confusion,  and  locked  the  book  up  in  his  cabinet, 
whereupon  I smiled,  and  told  him  to  be  under  no  alarm, 
as  I was  glad  to  see  him  so  usefully  employed.  Recovering 
himself,  he  said  that  he  had  read  the  book  nearly  through, 
and  that  he  had  found  no  harm  in  it,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
everything  to  praise.  Adding,  he  believed  that  the  clergy 
must  be  possessed  with  devils  ( endernoniados ) to  persecute 
it  in  the  manner  they  did. 

It  was  Sunday  when  the  seizure  was  made,  and  I 
happened  to  be  reading  the  Liturgy.  One  of  the  alguazils, 
when  going  away,  made  an  observation  respecting  the  very 
different  manner  in  which  the  Protestants  and  Catholics 
keep  the  Sabbath;  the  former  being  in  their  own  houses 
reading  good  books,  and  the  latter  abroad  in  the  bull-ring, 
seeing  the  wild  bulls  tear  out  the  gory  bowels  of  the  poor 
horses.  The  bull  amphitheatre  at  Seville  is  the  finest  in  all 
Spain,  and  is  invariably  on  a Sunday  (the  only  day  on  which 
it  is  open)  filled  with  applauding  multitudes. 

I now  made  preparations  for  leaving  Seville  for  a few 
months,  my  destination  being  the  coast  of  Barb  ary. 
Antonio,  who  did  not  wish  to  leave  Spain,  in  which  were  his 
wife  and  children,  returned  to  Madrid,  rejoicing  in  a hand- 
some gratuity  with  which  I presented  him.  As  it  was  my 
intention  to  return  to  Seville,  I left  my  house  and  horses  in 
charge  of  a friend  in  whom  I could  confide,  and  departed. 

The  reasons  which  induced  me  to  visit  Barb  ary  will  be 
seen  in  the  following  chapters. 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


431 


CHAPTER  L 

Night  on  the  Guadalquivir — Gospel  Light — Bonanza — Strand  of  San  Lucar 
— Andalusian  Scenery — History  of  a Chest — Cosas  de  los  Ingleses — 
The  Two  Gypsies — The  Driver — The  Red  Nightcap — The  Steam  Boat 
— Christian  Language. 

On  the  night  of  the  31st  of  July  I departed  from  Seville 
upon  my  expendition,  going  on  board  one  of  the  steamers 
which  ply  on  the  Guadalquivir  between  Seville  and  Cadiz. 

It  was  my  intention  to  stop  at  San  Lucar,  for  the  purpose 
of  recovering  the  chest  of  Testaments  which  had  been  placed 
in  embargo  there,  until  such  time  as  they  could  be  removed 
from  the  kingdom  of  Spain.  These  Testaments  I intended 
for  distribution  amongst  the  Christians  whom  I hoped  to 
meet  on  the  shores  of  Barbary.  San  Lucar  is  about  fifteen 
leagues  distant  from  Seville,  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  of 
Cadiz,  where  the  yellow  waters  of  the  Guadalquivir  unite 
with  the  brine.  The  steamer  shot  from  the  little  quay,  or 
wharf,  at  about  half-past  nine,  and  then  arose  a loud  cry, — 
it  was  the  voices  of  those  on  board  and  on  shore  wishing 
farewell  to  their  friends.  Amongst  the  tumult  I thought  I 
could  distinguish  the  accents  of  some  friends  of  my  own 
who  had  accompanied  me  to  the  bank,  and  I instantly  raised 
my  own  voice  louder  than  all.  The  night  was  very  dark, 
so  much  so,  indeed,  that  as  we  passed  along  we  could  scarcely 
distinguish  the  trees  which  cover  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
river  until  it  takes  its  first  turn.  A calmazo  had  reigned 
during  the  day  at  Seville,  by  which  is  meant,  exceedingly 
sultry  weather,  unenlivened  by  the  slightest  breeze.  The 
night  likewise  was  calm  and  sultry.  As  I had  frequently 
made  the  voyage  of  the  Guadalquivir,  ascending  and  de- 
scending this  celebrated  river,  I felt  nothing  of  that  restless- 
ness and  curiosity  which  people  experience  in  a strange  place, 
whether  in  light  or  darkness,  and  being  acquainted  with  none 
of  the  other  passengers,  who  were  talking  on  the  deck,  I 
thought  my  best  plan  would  be  to  retire  to  the  cabin  and 
enjoy  some  rest,  if  possible.  The  cabin  was  solitary  and 
tolerably  cool,  all  its  windows  on  either  side  being  open 
for  the  admission  of  air.  Flinging  myself  on  one  of  the 
cushioned  benches,  I was  soon  asleep,  in  which  state  I con- 
tinued for  about  two  hours,  when  I was  aroused  by  the 
curious  biting  of  a thousand  bugs,  which  compelled  me  to 
seek  the  deck,  where,  wrapping  myself  in  my  cloak,  X again 
fell  asleep.  It  was  near  daybreak  when  I awoke;  we 


432 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


were  then  about  two  leagues  from  San  Lucar.  I arose  and 
looked  towards  the  east,  watching  the  gradual  progress  of 
dawn,  first  the  dull  light,  then  the  streak,  then  the  tinge, 
then  the  bright  flush,  till  at  last  the  golden  disk  of  that  orb 
which  giveth  day  emerged  from  the  abyss  of  immensity, 
and  in  a moment  the  whole  prospect  was  covered  with 
brightness  and  glory.  The  land  smiled,  the  waters  sparkled, 
the  birds  sang,  and  men  arose  from  their  resting  places  and 
rejoiced:  for  it  was  day,  and  the  sun  was  gone  forth  on  the 
errand  of  its  Creator,  the  diffusion  of  light  and  gladness, 
and  the  dispelling  of  darkness  and  sorrow. 

“ Behold  the  morning  sun 
Begins  his  glorious  way  ; 

His  beams  through  all  the  nations  run, 

And  life  and  light  convey. 

“ But  where  the  Gospel  comes, 

It  spreads  diviner  light ; 

It  calls  dead  sinners  from  their  tombs, 

And  gives  the  blind  their  sight.* 

We  now  stopped  before  Bonanza:  this  is  properly 

speaking  the  port  of  San  Lucar,  although  it  is  half  a league 
distant  from  the  latter  place.  It  is  called  Bonanza  on 
account  of  its  good  anchorage,  and  its  being  secured  from 
the  boisterous  winds  of  the  ocean;  its  literal  meaning 
is  “ fair  weather.”  It  consists  of  several  large  white  build- 
ings, principally  government  store-houses,  and  is  inhabited 
by  the  coast-guard,  dependents  on  the  custom-house,  and  a 
few  fishermen.  A boat  came  off  to  receive  those  passengers 
whose  destination  was  San  Lucar,  and  to  bring  on  board 
about  half  a dozen  who  were  bound  for  Cadiz : I entered  with 
the  rest.  A young  Spaniard  of  very  diminutive  stature 
addressed  some  questions  to  me  in  French  as  to  what  I 
thought  of  the  scenery  and  climate  of  Andalusia.  I replied 
that  I admired  both,  which  evidently  gave  him  great  pleasure. 
The  boatman  now  came  demanding  two  reals  for  conveying 
me  on  shore.  I had  no  small  money,  and  offered  him  a 
dollar  to  change.  He  said  that  it  was  impossible.  I asked 
him  what  was  to  be  done;  whereupon  he  replied  uncivilly 
that  he  knew  not.  but  could  not  lose  time,  and  expected  to  be 
paid  instantly.  The  young  Spaniard,  observing  my  em- 
barrassment, took  out  two  reals  and  paid  the  fellow.  I 
thanked  him  heartily  for  this  act  of  civility,  for  which  I felt 
really  grateful ; as  there  are  few  situations  more  unpleasant 
than  to  be  in  a crowd  in  want  of  change,  whilst  you  are 
importuned  by  people  for  payment.  A loose  character  once 
told  me  that  it  was  far  preferable  to  be  without  money  at  all, 


433 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

as  you  then  knew  what  course  to  take.  I subsequently  met 
the  young  Spaniard  at  Cadiz,  and  repaid  him  with  thanks. 

A few  cabriolets  were  waiting  near  the  wharf,  in  order 
to  convey  us  to  San  Lucar.  I ascended  one,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded slowly  along  the  Playa  or  strand.  This  place  is 
famous  in  the  ancient  novels  of  Spain,  of  that  class  called 
Picaresque,  or  those  devoted  to  the  adventures  of  notorious 
scoundrels,  the  father  of  which,  as  also  of  all  others  of  the 
same  kind,  in  whatever  language,  is  Lazarillo  de  Tormes. 
Cervantes  himself  has  immortalized  this  strand  in  the  most 
amusing  of  his  smaller  tales,  La  Ilustre  Fregona.  In  a word, 
the  strand  of  San  Lucar  in  ancient  times,  if  not  in  modern,  was 
a rendezvous  for  ruffians,  contrabandistas,  and  vagabonds  of 
every  description,  who  nested  there  in  wooden  sheds,  which 
have  now  vanished.  San  Lucar  itself  was  always  noted  for 
the  thievish  propensities  of  its  inhabitants — the  worst 
in  all  Andalusia.  The  roguish  innkeeper  in  Don  Quixote 
perfected  his  education  at  San  Lucar.  All  these  recollections 
crowded  into  my  mind  as  we  proceeded  along  the  strand, 
which  was  beautifully  gilded  by  the  Andalusian  sun.  We  at 
last  arrived  nearly  opposite  to  San  Lucar,  which  stands  at 
some  distance  from  the  water  side.  Here  a lively  spectacle 
presented  itself  to  us : the  shore  was  covered  with  a multitude 
of  females  either  dressing  or  undressing  themselves,  while 
(I  speak  within  bounds)  hundreds  were  in  the  water  sport- 
ing and  playing;  some  were  close  by  the  beach, 
stretched  at  their  full  length  on  the  sand  and  pebbles, 
allowing  the  little  billows  to  dash  over  their  heads  and 
bosoms;  whilst  others  were  swimming  boldly  out  into  the 
firth.  There  was  a confused  hubbub  of  female  cries,  thin 
shrieks  and  shrill  laughter ; couplets  likewise  were  being  sung, 
on  what  subject  it  is  easy  to  guess,  for  we  were  in  sunny 
Andalusia,  and  what  can  its  black-eyed  daughters  think, 
speak,  or  sing  of  but  amor , amor , which  now  sounded  from 
the  land  and  the  waters.  Farther  on  along  the  beach  we 
perceived  likewise  a crowd  of  men  bathing;  we  passed  not 
by  them,  but  turned  to  the  left  up  an  alley  or  avenue  which 
leads  to  San  Lucar,  and  which  may  be  a quarter  of  a mile 
long.  The  view  from  hence  was  truly  magnificent;  before 
us  lay  the  town,  occupying  the  side  and  top  of  a tolerably 
high  hill,  extending  from  east  to  west.  It  appeared  to  be 
of  considerable  size,  and  I was  subsequently  informed  that 
it  contained  at  least  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Several 
immense  edifices  and  walls  towered  up  in  a style  of  grandeur 
which  can  be  but  feebly  described  by  words;  but  the 
principal  object  was  an  ancient  castle  towards  the  left. 
The  houses  were  all  white,  and  would  have  shone  brilliantly 
in  the  sun  had  it  been  higher,  but  at  this  early  hour  they  lay 


434 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


comparatively  in  shade.  The  tout  ensemble  was  very 
Moorish  and  oriental,  and  indeed  in  ancient  times  San  Lucar 
was  a celebrated  stronghold  of  the  Moors,  and  next  to 
Almeria,  the  most  frequented  of  their  commercial  places  in 
Spain.  Everything,  indeed,  in  these  parts  of  Andalusia, 
is  perfectly  oriental.  Behold  the  heavens,  as  cloudless 
and  as  brightly  azure  as  those  of  Ind;  the  fiery  sun  which 
tans  the  fairest  cheek  in  a moment,  and  which  fills  the  air 
with  flickering  flame;  and  O,  remark  the  scenery  and  the 
vegetable  productions.  The  alley  up  which  we  were  moving 
was  planted  on  each  side  with  that  remarkable  tree  or  plant, 
for  I know  not  which  to  call  it,  the  giant  aloe,  which  is  called 
in  Spanish,  pita,  and  in  Moorish,  gursean . It  rises  here  to  a 
height  almost  as  magnificent  as  on  the  African  shore. 
Need  I say  that  the  stem,  which  springs  up  from  the  middle 
of  the  bush  of  green  blades,  which  shoot  out  from  the  root 
on  all  sides,  is  as  high  as  a palm-tree;  and  need  I say  that 
those  blades,  which  are  of  an  immense  thickness  at  the  root, 
are  at  the  tip  sharper  than  the  point  of  a spear,  and  would 
inflict  a terrible  wound  on  any  animal  which  might  inad- 
vertently rush  against  them? 

One  of  the  first  houses  at  San  Luo&r  was  the  posada 
at  which  we  stopped.  It  confronted,  with  some  others,  the 
avenue  up  which  we  had  come.  As  it  was  still  early,  I 
betook  myself  to  rest  for  a few  hours,  at  the  end  of  which 
time  I went  out  to  visit  Mr.  Phillipi,  the  British  vice-consul, 
who  was  already  acquainted  with  me  by  name,  as  I had  been 
recommended  to  him  in  a letter  from  a relation  of  his  at 
Seville.  Mr.  Phillipi  was  at  home  in  his  counting-house, 
and  received  me  with  much  kindness  and  civility.  I told 
him  the  motive  of  my  visit  to  San  Lucar,  and  requested 
his  assistance  towards  obtaining  the  books  from  the  custom- 
house, in  order  to  transport  them  out  of  the  country,  as  I 
was  very  well  acquainted  with  the  difficulties  which  every 
one  has  to  encounter  in  Spain,  who  has  any  business  to 
transact  with  the  government  authorities.  He  assured 
me  that  he  should  be  most  happy  to  assist  me,  and  accord- 
ingly despatched  with  me  to  the  custom-house  his  head 
clerk,  a person  well  known  and  much  respected  at  San 
Lucar. 

It  may  be  as  well  here  at  once  to  give  the  history  of 
these  books,  which  might  otherwise  tend  to  embarrass  the 
narrative.  They  consisted  of  a chest  of  Testaments  in 
Spanish,  and  a small  box  of  Saint  Luke's  Gospel  in  the 
Gitano  or  language  of  the  Spanish  Gypsies.  I obtained 
them  from  the  custom-house  at  San  Lucar,  with  a pass 
for  that  of  Cadiz.  At  Cadiz  I was  occupied  two  days,  and 
also  a person  whom  I employed,  in  going  through  all  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


435 


formalities,  and  in  procuring  the  necessary  papers.  The 
expense  was  great,  as  money  was  demanded  at  every  step  I 
had  to  take,  though  I was  simply  complying  in  this  instance 
with  the  orders  of  the  Spanish  government  in  removing 
prohibited  books  from  Spain.  The  farce  did  not  end  until 
my  arrival  at  Gibraltar,  where  I paid  the  Spanish  consul  a 
dollar  for  certifying  on  the  back  of  the  pass,  which  I had 
to  return  to  Cadiz,  that  the  books  were  arrived  at  the 
former  place.  It  is  true  that  he  never  saw  the  books  nor 
inquired  about  them,  but  he  received  the  money,  for  which 
he  alone  seemed  to  be  anxious. 

Whilst  at  the  custom-house  of  San  Lucar  I was  asked 
one  or  two  questions  respecting  the  books  contained  in  the 
chests:  this  afforded  me  some  opportunity  of  speaking  of 
the  New  Testaments  and  the  Bible  Society.  What  I said 
excited  attention,  and  presently  all  the  officers  and  depend- 
ents of  the  house,  great  and  small,  were  gathered  around  me, 
from  the  governor  to  the  porter.  As  it  was  necessary  to 
open  the  boxes  to  inspect  their  contents,  we  all  proceeded 
to  the  court-yard,  where,  holding  a Testament  in  my  hand, 
I recommended  my  discourse.  I scarcely  know  what  I 
said;  for  I was  much  agitated,  and  hurried  away  by  my 
feelings,  when  I bethought  me  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
word  of  God  was  persecuted  in  this  unhappy  kingdom.  My 
words  evidently  made  impression,  and  to  my  astonishment 
every  person  present  pressed  me  for  a copy.  I sold  several 
within  the  walls  of  the  custom-house.  The  object,  however, 
of  most  attention  was  the  Gypsy  Gospel,  which  was 
minutely  examined  amidst  smiles  and  exclamations  of 
surprise;  an  individual  every  now  and  then  crying,  “ Cosas 
de  los  Ingleses A bystander  asked  me  whether  I could 
speak  the  Gitano  language.  I replied  that  I could  not  only 
speak  it,  but  write  it,  and  instantly  made  a speech  of  about 
five  minutes  in  the  Gypsy  tongue,  which  I had  no  sooner 
concluded  than  all  clapped  their  hands  and  simultaneously 
shouted,  “ Cosas  de  Ingalaterra  ” “ Cosas  de  los  Ingleses ” 
I disposed  of  several  copies  of  the  Gypsy  Gospel  likewise, 
and  having  now  settled  the  business  which  had  brought  me 
to  the  custom-house,  I saluted  my  new  friends  and  departed 
with  my  books. 

I now  revisited  Mr.  Phillipi,  who,  upon  learning  that  it 
was  my  intention  to  proceed  to  Cadiz  next  morning  by  the 
steamer,  which  would  touch  at  Bonanza  at  four  o'clock, 
despatched  the  chests  and  my  little  luggage  to  the  latter 
place,  where  he  likewise  advised  me  to  sleep,  in  order  that 
I might  be  in  readiness  to  embark  at  that  early  hour.  He 
then  introduced  me  to  his  family,  his  wife  an  English 
woman,  and  his  daughter  an  amiable  and  beautiful  girl  of 


436 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


about  eighteen  years  of  age,  whom  I had  previously  seen 
at  Seville;  three  or  four  other  ladies  from  Seville  were 
likewise  there  on  a visit,  and  for  the  purpose  of  sea-bathing. 
After  a few  words  in  English  between  the  lady  of  the  house 
and  myself,  we  all  commenced  chatting  in  Spanish,  which 
seemed  to  be  the  only  language  understood  or  cared  for  by 
the  rest  of  the  company;  indeed,  who  would  be  so  un- 
reasonable as  to  expect  Spanish  females  to  speak  any 
language  but  their  own,  which,  flexible  and  harmonious 
as  it  is,  (far  more  so  I think  than  any  other,)  seemed  at 
times  quite  inadequate  to  express  the  wild  sallies  of  their 
luxuriant  imagination.  Two  hours  fled  rapidly  away  in 
discourse,  interrupted  occasionally  by  music  and  song,  when 
I bade  farewell  to  this  delightful  society,  and  strolled  out  to 
view  the  town. 

It  was  now  past  noon,  and  the  heat  was  exceedingly 
fierce:  I saw  scarcely  a living  being  in  the  streets,  the 
stones  of  which  burnt  my  feet  through  the  soles  of  my 
boots.  I passed  through  the  square  of  the  Constitution, 
which  presents  nothing  particular  to  the  eye  of  the  stranger, 
and  ascended  the  hill  to  obtain  a nearer  view  of  the  castle. 
It  is  a strong  heavy  edifice  of  stone,  with  round  towers, 
and,  though  deserted,  appears  to  be  still  in  a tolerable  state 
of  preservation.  I became  tired  of  gazing,  and  was  retracing 
my  steps,  when  I was  accosted  by  two  Gypsies,  who  by  some 
means’  had  heard  of  my  arrival.  We  exchanged  some 
words  in  Gitano,  but  they  appeared  to  be  very  ignorant  of 
the  dialect,  and  utterly  unable  to  maintain  a conversation 
in  it.  They  were  clamorous  for  a gabicote,  or  book  in  the 
Gypsy  tongue.  I refused  it  them,  saying  that  they  could 
turn  it  to  no  profitable  account;  but  finding  that  they  could 
read,  I promised  them  each  a Testament  in  Spanish.  This 
offer,  however,  they  refused  with  disdain,  saying  that  they 
cared  for  nothing  written  in  the  language  of  the  Busne  or 
Gentiles.  They  then  persisted  in  their  demand,  to  which 
I at  last  yielded,  being  unable  to  resist  their  importunity; 
whereupon  they  accompanied  me  to  the  inn,  and  received 
what  they  so  ardently  desired. 

In  the  evening  I was  visited  by  Mr.  Phillipi,  who  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  ordered  a cabriolet  to  call  for  me  at 
the  inn  at  eleven  at  night,  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  me 
to  Bonanza,  and  that  a person  there  who  kept  a small  wine- 
house,  and  to  whom  the  chests  and  other  things  had  been 
forwarded,  would  receive  me  for  the  night,  though  it  was 
probable  that  I should  have  to  sleep  on  the  floor.  We  then 
walked  to  the  beach,  where  there  were  a great  number  of 
bathers,  all  men.  Amongst  them  were  some  good 
swimmers;  two,  in  particular,  were  out  at  a great  distance 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


437 


in  the  firth  of  the  Guadalquivir,  I should  say  at  least  a mile; 
their  heads  could  just  be  descried  with  the  telescope.  I was 
told  that  they  were  friars.  I wondered  at  what  period 
of  their  lives  they  had  acquired  their  dexterity  at  natation. 
I hoped  it  was  not  at  a time  when,  according  to  their  vows, 
they  should  have  lived  for  prayer,  fasting,  and  mortifica- 
tion alone.  Swimming  is  a noble  exercise,  but  it  certainly 
does  not  tend  to  mortify  either  the  flesh  or  the  spirit.  As 
it  was  becoming  dusk,  we  returned  to  the  town,  when  my 
friend  bade  me  a kind  farewell.  I then  retired  to  my 
apartment,  and  passed  some  hours  in  meditation. 

It  was  night,  ten  o'clock; — eleven  o'clock,  and  the 
cabriolet  was  at  the  door.  I got  in,  and  we  proceeded  down 
the  avenue  and  along  the  shore,  which  was  quite  deserted. 
The  waves  sounded  mournfully;  everything  seemed  to 
have  changed  since  the  morning.  I even  thought  that  the 
horse’s  feet  sounded  differently,  as  it  trotted  slowly  over  the 
moist  firm  sand.  The  driver,  however,  was  by  no  means 
mournful,  nor  inclined  to  be  silent  long:  he  soon  commenced 
asking  me  an  infinity  of  questions  as  to  whence  I came  and 
whither  I was  bound.  Having  given  him  what  answers  I 
thought  most  proper,  I,  in  return,  asked  him  whether  he  was 
not  afraid  to  drive  along  that  beach,  which  had  always 
borne  so  bad  a character,  at  so  unseasonable  an  hour. 
Whereupon,  he  looked  around  him,  and  seeing  no  person, 
he  raised  a shout  of  derision,  and  said  that  a fellow  with 
his  whiskers  feared  not  all  the  thieves  that  ever  walked 
the  playa,  and  that  no  dozen  men  in  San  Lucar  dare  to 
waylay  any  traveller  whom  they  knew  to  be  beneath  his 
protection.  He  was  a good  specimen  of  the  Andalusian 
braggart.  We  soon  saw  a light  or  two  shining  dimly 
before  us;  they  proceeded  from  a few  barks  and  small 
vessels  stranded  on  the  sand  close  below  Bonanza:  amongst 
them  I distinguished  two  or  three  dusky  figures.  We  were 
now  at  our  journey's  end,  and  stopped  before  the  door  of  the 
place  where  I was  to  lodge  for  the  night.  The  driver,  dismount- 
ing, knocked  loud  and  long,  until  the  door  was  opened  by  an 
exceedingly  stout  man  of  about  sixty  years  of  age;  he  held  a 
dim  light  in  his  hand,  and  was  dressed  in  a red  nightcap  and 
dirty  striped  shirt.  He  admitted  us,  without  a word,  into 
a very  large  long  room  with  a clay  floor.  A species  of 
counter  stood  on  one  side  near  the  door;  behind  it  stood  a 
barrel  or  two,  and  against  the  wall,  on  shelves,  many  bottles 
of  various  sizes.  The  smell  of  liquors  and  wine  was  very 
powerful.  I settled  with  the  driver  and  gave  him  a 
gratuity,  whereupon  he  asked  me  for  something  to  drink  to 
my  safe  journey.  I told  him  he  could  call  for  whatever  he 
pleased;  whereupon  he  demanded  a glass  of  aguardiente, 


438 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


which  the  master  of  the  house,  who  had  stationed  himself 
behind  the  counter,  handed  him  without  saying  a word. 
The  fellow  drank  it  off  at  once,  but  made  a great  many  wry 
faces  after  having  swallowed  it,  and,  coughing,  said  that  he 
made  no  doubt  it  was  good  liquor,  as  it  burnt  his  throat 
terribly.  He  then  embraced  me,  went  out,  mounted  his 
cabriolet,  and  drove  off. 

The  old  man  with  the  red  nightcap  now  moved  slowly  to 
the  door,  which  he  bolted  and  otherwise  secured;  he  then 
drew  forward  two  benches,  which  he  placed  together,  and 
pointed  to  them  as  if  to  intimate  to  me  that  there  was  my 
bed:  he  then  blew  out  the  candle  and  retired  deeper  into  the 
apartment,  where  I heard  him  lay  himself  down  sighing  and 
snorting.  There  was  now  no  farther  light  than  what  pro- 
ceeded from  a small  earthen  pan  on  the  floor,  filled  with 
water  and  oil,  on  which  floated  a small  piece  of  card  with  a 
lighted  wick  in  the  middle,  which  simple  species  of  lamp  is 
called  “ mariposa."  I now  laid  my  carpet  bag  on  the  bench 
as  a pillow,  and  flung  myself  down.  I should  have  been 
asleep  instantly,  but  he  of  the  red  nightcap  now  commenced 
snoring  awfully,  which  brought  to  my  mind  that  I had  not 
yet  commended  myself  to  my  friend  and  Redeemer:  I 

therefore  prayed,  and  then  sank  to  repose. 

I was  awakened  more  than  once  during  the  night  by 
cats,  and  I believe  rats,  leaping  upon  my  body.  At  the  last 
of  these  interruptions  I arose,  and,  approaching  the  mariposa, 
looked  at  my  watch;  it  was  half-past  three  o'clock.  I 
opened  the  door  and  looked  out;  whereupon  some  fishermen 
entered  clamouring  for  their  morning  draught:  the  old  man 
was  soon  on  his  feet  serving  them.  One  of  the  men  said 
to  me  that,  if  I was  going  by  the  steamer,  I had  better  order 
my  things  to  the  wharf  without  delay,  as  he  had  heard  the 
vessel  coming  down  the  river.  I dispatched  my  luggage, 
and  then  demanded  of  the  red  nightcap  what  I owed  him. 
He  replied  “ One  real."  These  were  the  only  two  words 
which  1 heard  proceed  from  his  mouth:  he  was  certainly 
addicted  to  silence,  and  perhaps  to  philosophy,  neither  of 
which  are  much  practised  in  Andalusia.  I now  hurried  to 
the  wharf;  the  steamer  was  not  yet  arrived,  but  I heard 
its  thunder  up  the  river  every  moment  becoming  more 
distinct:  there  was  mist  and  darkness  upon  the  face  of  the 
waters,  and  I felt  awe  as  I listened  to  the  approach  of  the 
invisible  monster  booming  through  the  stillness  of  the 
night.  It  came  at  last  in  sight,  plashed  its  way  forward, 
stopped,  and  I was  soon  on  board.  It  was  the  Peninsula, 
the  best  boat  on  the  Guadalquivir. 

What  a wonderful  production  of  art  is  a steamboat; 
and  yet  why  should  we  call  it  wonderful,  if  we  consider  its 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


439 


history.  More  than  five  hundred  years  have  elapsed  since 
the  idea  of  making  one  first  originated ; but  it  was  not  until 
the  close  of  the  last  century  that  the  first,  worthy  of  the 
name,  made  its  appearance  on  a Scottish  river. 

During  this  long  period  of  time,  acute  minds  and  skilful 
hands  were  occasionally  busied  in  attempting  to  remove 
those  imperfections  in  the  machinery,  which  alone  prevented 
a vessel  being  made  capable  of  propelling  itself  against  wiifd 
and  tide.  All  these  attempts  were  successively  abandoned 
in  despair,  yet  scarcely  one  was  made  which  was  perfectly 
fruitless ; each  inventor  leaving  behind  him  some  monument 
of  his  labour,  of  which . those  who  succeeded  him  took 
advantage,  until  at  last  a fortunate  thought  or  two,  and  a 
few  more  perfect  arrangements,  were  all  that  were  wanting. 
The  time  arrived,  and  now,  at  length,  the  very  Atlantic  is 
crossed  by  haughty  steamers.  Much  has  been  said  of  the 
utility  of  steam  in  spreading  abroad  civilization,  and  I think 
justly.  When  the  first  steam  vessels  were  seen  on  the 
Guadalquivir,  about  ten  years  ago,  the  Sevillians  ran  to  the 
banks  of  the  river,  crying  “ sorcery,  sorcery/'  which  idea 
was  not  a little  favoured  by  the  speculation  being  an 
English  one,  and  the  boats,  which  were  English  built,  being 
provided  with  English  engineers,  as,  indeed,  they  still  are; 
no  Spaniard  having  been  found  capable  of  understanding 
the  machinery.  They  soon,  however,  became  accustomed 
to  them,  and  the  boats  are  in  general  crowded  with 
passengers.  Fanatic  and  vain  as  the  Sevillians  still  are. 
and  bigoted  as  they  remain  to  their  own  customs,  they 
know  that  good,  in  one  instance  at  least,  can  proceed  from  a 
foreign  land,  and  that  land  a land  of  heretics;  inveterate 
prejudice  has  been  shaken,  and  we  will  hope  that  this  is  the 
dawn  of  their  civilization. 

Whilst  passing  over  the  bay  of  Cadiz,  I was  reclining 
on  one  of  the  benches  on  the  deck,  when  the  captain  walked 
by  in  company  with  another  man;  they  stopped  a short 
distance  from  me,  and  I heard  the  captain  ask  the  other,  in  a 
low  voice,  how  many  languages  he  spoke;  he  replied  “ only 
one."  “ That  one,"  said  the  captain,  “ is  of  course  the 
Christian  ";  by  which  name  the  Spaniards  style  their  own 
language  in  contradistinction  to  all  others.  “ That  fellow," 
continued  the  captain,  “ who  is  lying  on  the  deck,  can  speak 
Christian  too,  when  it  serves  his  purpose,  but  he  speaks 
others,  which  are  by  no  means  Christian:  he  can  talk  English, 
and  I myself  have  heard  him  chatter  in  Gitano  with  the 
Gypsies  of  Triana;  he  is  now  going  amongst  the  Moors,  and 
when  he  arrives  in  their  country,  you  will  hear  him,  should  he 
be  there,  converse  as  fluently  in  their  gibberish  as  in  Christi- 
ano,  nay,  better,  for  he  is  no  Christian  himself.  He  has 


440 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


been  several  times  on  board  my  vessel  already,  but  I do  not 
like  him,  as  I consider  that  he  carries  something  about  with 
him  which  is  not  good.” 

This  worthy  person,  on  my  coming  aboard  the  boat, 
had  shaken  me  by  the  hand  and  expressed  his  joy  at  seeing 
me  again. 


CHAPTER  LI 

Cadiz — The  Fortifications — The  Consul-General — Characteristic  Anec- 
dote— Catalan  Steamer — Trafalgar — Alonzo  Guzman — Gibil  Muza — 
Orestes  Frigate — The  Hostile  Lion — Works  of  the  Creator — Lizard 
of  the  Rock — The  Concourse — Queen  of  the  Waters — Broken  Prayer. 

Cadiz  stands,  as  is  well  known,  upon  a long  narrow  neck  of 
land  stretching  out  into  the  ocean,  from  whose  bosom  the 
town  appears  to  rise,  the  salt  waters  laving  its  walls  on  all 
sides  save  the  east,  where  a sandy  isthmus  connects  it  with 
the  coast  of  Spain.  The  town,  as  it  exists  at  the  present 
day,  is  of  modern  construction,  and  very  unlike  any  other 
town  which  is  to  be  found  in  the  Peninsula,  being  built  with 
great  regularity  and  symmetry.  The  streets  are  numerous, 
and  intersect  each  other,  for  the  most  part,  at  right  angles. 
They  are  very  narrow  in  comparison  to  the  height  of  the 
houses,  so  that  they  are  almost  impervious  to  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  except  when  at  its  midday  altitude.  The  principal 
street,  however,  is  an  exception,  it  being  of  some  width. 
This  street,  in  which  stands  the  Bolsa,  or  exchange,  and 
which  contains  the  houses  of  the  chief  merchants  and 
nobility,  is  the  grand  resort  of  loungers  as  well  as  men  of 
business  during  the  early  part  of  the  day,  and  in  that  respect 
resembles  the  Puerta  del  Sol  at  Madrid.  It  is  connected 
with  the  great  square,  which,  though  not  of  very  consider- 
able extent,  has  many  pretensions  to  magnificence,  it  being 
surrounded  with  large  imposing  houses,  and  planted  with 
fine  trees,  with  marble  seats  below  them  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  public.  There  are  few  public  edifices  worthy 
of  much  attention:  the  chief  church,  indeed,  might  be 

considered  a fine  monument  of  labour  in  some  other  countries, 
but  in  Spain,  the  land  of  noble  and  gigantic  cathedrals,  it 
can  be  styled  nothing  more  than  a decent  place  of  worship; 
it  is  still  in  an  unfinished  state.  There  is  a public  walk  or 
alameda  on  the  northern  ramparts,  which  is  generally 
thronged  in  summer  evenings:  the  green  of  its  trees,  when 
viewed  from  the  bay,  affords  an  agreeable  relief  to  the  eye, 
dazzled  with  the  glare  of  the  white  buildings,  for  Cadiz  is  also 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


441 


a bright  city.  It  was  once  the  wealthiest  place  in  all  Spain, 
but  its  prosperity  has  of  late  years  sadly  diminished,  and  its 
inhabitants  are  continually  lamenting  its  ruined  trade;  on 
which  account  many  are  daily  abandoning  it  for  Seville, 
where  living  at  least  is  cheaper.  There  is  still,  however, 
much  life  and  bustle  in  the  streets,  which  are  adorned  with 
many  splendid  shops,  several  of  which  are  in  the  style  of 
Paris  and  London.  The  present  population  is  said  to 
amount  to  eighty  thousand  souls. 

It  is  not  without  reason  that  Cadiz  has  been  called  a 
strong  town:  the  fortifications  on  the  land  side,  which  were 
partly  the  work  of  the  French  during  the  sway  of  Napoleon, 
are  perfectly  admirable,  and  seem  impregnable:  towards  the 
sea  it  is  defended  as  much  by  nature  as  by  art,  water  and 
sunken  rocks  being  no  contemptible  bulwarks.  The 
defences  of  the  town,  however,  except  the  landward  ones, 
afford  melancholy  proofs  of  Spanish  apathy  and  neglect, 
even  when  allowance  is  made  for  the  present  peculiarly 
unhappy  circumstances  of  the  country.  Scarcely  a gun, 
except  a few  dismounted  ones,  is  to  be  seen  on  the  fortifica- 
tions, which  are  rapidly  falling  to  decay,  so  that  this  insulated 
stronghold  is  at  present  almost  at  the  mercy  of  any  foreign 
nation  which,  upon  any  pretence,  or  none  at  all,  should  seek 
to  tear  it  from  the  grasp  of  its  present  legitimate  possessors, 
and  convert  it  into  a foreign  colony. 

A few  hours  after  my  arrival,  I waited  upon  Mr.  B.,  the 
British  consul-general  at  Cadiz.  His  house,  which  is  the 
corner  one  at  the  entrance  of  the  alameda,  commands  a 
noble  prospect  of  the  bay,  and  is  very  large  and  magnificent. 
I had  of  course  long  been  acquainted  with  Mr.  B.  by  reputa- 
tion; I knew  that  for  several  years  he  had  filled,  with 
advantage  to  his  native  country  and  with  honour  to  himself, 
the  distinguished  and  highly  responsible  situation  which  he 
holds  in  Spain.  I knew,  likewise,  that  he  was  a good  and 
pious  Christian,  and,  moreover,  the  firm  and  enlightened 
friend  of  the  Bible  Society.  Of  all  this  I was  aware,  but  I 
had  never  yet  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  being  personally 
acquainted  with  him.  I saw  him  now  for  the  first  time,  and 
was  much  struck  with  his  appearance.  He  is  a tall,  athletic, 
finely  built  man,  seemingly  about  forty-five  or  fifty;  there 
is  much  dignity  in  his  countenance,  which  is,  however, 
softened  by  an  expression  of  good  humour  truly  engaging. 
His  manner  is  frank  and  affable  in  the  extreme.  I am  not 
going  to  enter  into  minute  details  of  our  interview,  which 
was  to  me  a very  interesting  one.  He  knew  already  the 
leading  parts  of  my  history  since  my  arrival  in  Spain,  and 
made  several  comments  upon  it,  which  displayed  his 
intimate  knowledge  of  the  situation  of  the  country  as  regards 


442 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


ecclesiastical  matters,  and  the  state  of  opinion  respecting 
religious  innovation. 

I was  pleased  to  find  that  his  ideas  in  many  points 
accorded  with  my  own,  and  we  were  both  decidedly  of 
opinion  that,  notwithstanding  the  great  persecution  and 
outcry  which  had  lately  been  raised  against  the  Gospel, 
the  battle  was  by  no  means  lost,  and  that  the  holy  cause 
might  yet  triumph  in  Spain,  if  zeal  united  with  discretion 
and  Christian  humility  were  displayed  by  those  called  upon 
to  uphold  it. 

During  the  greater  part  of  this  and  the  following  day, 
I was  much  occupied  at  the  custom-house,  endeavouring  to 
obtain  the  documents  necessary  for  the  exportation  of  the 
Testaments.  On  the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  I dined  with 
Mr.  B.  and  his  family,  an  interesting  group, — his  lady,  his 
beautiful  daughters,  and  his  son,  a fine  intelligent  young 
man.  Early  the  next  morning,  a steamer,  the  Balear,  was 
to  quit  Cadiz  for  Marseilles,  touching  on  the  way  at  Algeciras, 
Gibraltar,  and  various  other  ports  of  Spain.  I had  engaged 
my  passage  on  board  her  as  far  as  Gibraltar,  having  nothing 
farther  to  detain  me  at  Cadiz ; my  business  with  the  custom- 
house having  been  brought  at  last  to  a termination,  though  I 
believe  I should  never  have  got  through  it  but  for  the  kind 
assistance  of  Mr.  B.  I quitted  this  excellent  man  and  my 
other  charming  friends  at  a late  hour  with  regret.  I believe 
that  I carried  with  me  their  very  best  wishes;  and,  in  what- 
ever part  of  the  world  I,  a poor  wanderer  in  the  Gospel's 
cause,  may  chance  to  be,  I shall  not  unfrequently  offer  up 
sincere  prayers  for  their  happiness  and  well-being. 

Before  taking  leave  of  Cadiz,  I shall  relate  an  anecdote 
of  the  British  consul,  characteristic  of  him  and  the  happy 
manner  in  which  he  contrives  to  execute  the  most  dis- 
agreeable duties  of  his  situation.  I was  in  conversation 
with  him  in  a parlour  of  his  house,  when  we  were  interrupted 
by  the  entrance  of  two  very  unexpected  visitors:  they  were 
the  captain  of  a Liverpool  merchant  vessel  and  one  of  the 
crew.  The  latter  was  a rough  sailor,  a Welshman,  who 
could  only  express  himself  in  very  imperfect  English.  They 
looked  unutterable  dislike  and  defiance  at  each  other.  It 
appeared  that  the  latter  had  refused  to  work,  and  insisted 
on  leaving  the  ship,  and  his  master  had  in  consequence 
brought  him  before  the  consul,  in  order  that,  if  he  persisted, 
the  consequences  might  be  detailed  to  him,  which  would  be 
the  forfeiture  of  his  wages  and  clothes.  This  was  done; 
but  the  fellow  became  more  and  more  dogged,  refusing  ever 
to  tread  the  same  deck  again  with  his  captain,  who,  he  said, 
had  called  him  “ Greek,  lazy  lubberly  Greek,"  which  he 
would  not  bear.  The  word  Greek  rankled  in  the  sailor's 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


443 


mind,  and  stung  him  to  the  very  core.  Mr.  B.,  who  seemed 
to  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  character  of  Welsh- 
men in  general,  who  are  proverbially  obstinate  when  opposi- 
tion is  offered  to  them,  and  who  saw  at  once  that  the  dispute 
had  arisen  on  foolish  and  trivial  grounds,  now  told  the  man, 
with  a smile,  that  he  would  inform  him  of  a way  by  which  he 
might  gain  the  weather-gage  of  every  one  of  them,  consul  and 
captain  and  all,  and  secure  his  wages  and  clothes;  wdiich 
was  by  merely  going  on  board  a brig  of  war  of  her  Majesty, 
which  was  then  lying  in  the  bay.  The  fellow  said  he  was 
aware  of  this,  and  intended  to  do  so.  His  grim  features, 
however,  instantly  relaxed  in  some  degree,  and  he  looked 
more  humanely  upon  his  captain.  Mr.  B.  then,  addressing 
himself  to  the  latter,  made  some  observations  on  the  im- 
propriety of  using  the  word  Greek  to  a British  sailor; 
not  forgetting,  at  the  same  time,  to  speak  of  the  absolute 
necessity  of  obedience  and  discipline  on  board  every  ship. 
His  words  produced  such  an  effect,  that  in  a very  little  time 
the  sailor  held  out  his  hand  towards  his  captain,  and 
expressed  his  willingness  to  go  on  board  with  him  and 
perform  his  duty,  adding,  that  the  captain,  upon  the  whole, 
was  the  best  man  in  the  world.  So  they  departed  mutually 
pleased;  the  consul  making  both  of  them  promise  to  attend 
divine  service  at  his  house  on  the  following  day. 

Sunday  morning  came,  and  I was  on  board  the  steamer 
by  six  o'clock.  As  I ascended  the  side,  the  harsh  sound  of 
the  Catalan  dialect  assailed  my  ears.  In  fact,  the  vessel 
was  Catalan  built,  and  the  captain  and  crew  were  of  that 
nation;  the  greater  part  of  the  passengers  already  on  board, 
or  who  subsequently  arrived,  appeared  to  be  Catalans,  and 
seemed  to  vie  with  each  other  in  producing  disagreeable 
sounds.  A burly  merchant,  however,  with  a red  face, 
peaked  chin,  sharp  eyes,  and  hooked  nose,  clearly  bore  off 
the  palm;  he  conversed  with  astonishing  eagerness  on 
seemingly  the  most  indifferent  subjects,  or  rather  on  no 
subject  at  all;  his  voice  would  have  sounded  exactly  like  a 
coffee-mill,  but  for  a vile  nasal  twang:  he  poured  forth  his 
Catalan  incessantly  till  we  arrived  at  Gibraltar.  Such 
people  are  never  sea-sick,  though  they  frequently  produce 
or  aggravate  the  malady  in  others.  We  did  not  get  under 
way  until  past  eight  o'clock,  for  we  waited  for  the  Governor 
of  Algeciras,  and  started  instantly  on  his  coming  on  board. 
He  was  a tall,  thin,  rigid  figure  of  about  seventy,  with  a long, 
grave,  wrinkled  countenance;  in  a word,  the  very  image 
of  an  old  Spanish  grandee.  We  stood  out  of  the  bay, 
rounding  the  lofty  lighthouse,  which  stands  on  a ledge  of 
rocks,  and  then  bent  our  course  to  the  south,  in  the  direction 
of  the  straits.  It  was  a glorious  morning,  a blue  sunny  sky 


444 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  blue  sunny  ocean;  or,  rather,  as  my  friend  Oehlen- 
schlseger  has  observed  on  a similar  occasion,  there  appeared 
two  skies  and  two  suns,  one  above  and  one  below. 

Our  progress  was  rather  slow,  notwithstanding  the 
fineness  of  the  weather,  probably  owing  to  the  tide  being 
against  us.  In  about  two  hours  we  passed  the  Castle  of 
Santa  Petra,  and  at  noon  were  in  sight  of  Trafalgar,  The 
wind  now  freshened  and  was  dead  ahead;  on  which  account 
we  hugged  closely  to  the  coast,  in  order  to  avoid  as  much  as 
possible  the  strong  heavy  sea  which  was  pouring  down  from 
the  Straits.  We  passed  within  a very  short  distance  of 
the  Cape,  a bold  bluff  foreland,  but  not  of  any  considerable 
height. 

It  is  impossible  for  an  Englishman  to  pass  by  this  place 
— the  scene  of  the  most  celebrated  naval  action  on  record — 
without  emotion.  Here  it  was  that  the  united  navies  of 
France  and  Spain  were  annihilated  by  a far  inferior  force; 
but  that  force  was  British,  and  was  directed  by  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  men  of  the  age,  and  perhaps  the  greatest 
hero  of  any  time.  Huge  fragments  of  wreck  still  frequently 
emerge  from  the  watery  gulf  whose  billows  chafe  the  rocky 
sides  of  Trafalgar:  they  are  relics  of  the  enormous  ships 
which  were  burnt  and  sunk  on  that  terrible  day,  when  the 
heroic  champion  of  Britain  concluded  his  work  and  died. 
I never  heard  but  one  individual  venture  to  say  a word  in 
disparagement  of  Nelson’s  glory:  it  was  a pert  American, 
who  observed,  that  the  British  admiral  was  much  overrated. 
“ Can  that  individual  be  overrated,”  replied  a stranger, 
“ whose  every  thought  was  bent  on  his  country’s  honour, 
who  scarcely  ever  fought  without  leaving  a piece  of  his 
body  in  the  fray,  and  who,  not  to  speak  of  minor  triumphs, 
was  victorious  in  two  such  actions  as  Aboukir  and 
Trafalgar?  ” 

We  were  now  soon  in  sight  of  the  Moorish  coast,  Cape 
Spartel  appearing  dimly  through  mist  and  vapour  on  our 
right.  A regular  Levanter  had  now  come  on,  and  the 
vessel  pitched  and  tossed  to  a very  considerable  degree. 
Most  of  the  passengers  were  sea-sick;  the  governor,  how- 
ever, and  myself  held  out  manfully:  we  sat  on  a bench  to- 
gether, and  entered  into  conversation  respecting  the  Moors 
and  their  country.  Torquemada  himself  could  not  have 
spoken  of  both  with  more  abhorrence.  He  informed  me  that 
he  had  been  frequently  in  several  of  the  principal  Moorish 
towns  of  the  coast,  which  he  described  as  heaps  of  ruins: 
the  Moors  themselves  he  called  Caffres  and  wild  beasts. 
He  observed  that  he  had  never  been  even  at  Tangier, 
where  the  people  were  most  civilised,  without  experiencing 
some  insult,  so  great  was  the  abhorrence  of  the  Moors  to 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


445 


anything  in  the  shape  of  a Christian.  He  added,  however, 
that  they  treated  the  English  with  comparative  civility, 
and  that  they  had  a saying  among  them  to  the  effect  that 
Englishman  and  Mahometan  were  one  and  the  same;  he 
then  looked  particularly  grave  for  a moment,  and,  crossing 
himself,  was  silent.  I guessed  what  was  passing  in  his 
mind: 

“ From  heretic  boors, 

And  Turkish  Moors, 

Star  of  the  sea, 

Gentle  Marie, 

Deliver  me  ! ” 

At  about  three  we  were  passing  Tarifa,  so  frequently 
mentioned  in  the  history  of  the  Moors  and  Christians.  Who 
has  not  heard  of  Alonzo  Guzman  the  faithful,  who  allowed 
his  only  son  to  be  crucified  before  the  walls  of  the  town 
rather  than  submit  to  the  ignominy  of  delivering  up  the  keys 
to  the  Moorish  monarch,  who,  with  a host  which  is  said  to 
have  amounted  to  nearly  half  a million  of  men,  had  landed 
on  the  shores  of  Andalusia,  and  threatened  to  bring  all 
Spain  once  more  beneath  the  Moslem  yoke?  Certainly  if 
there  be  a land  and  a spot  where  the  name  of  that  good 
patriot  is  not  sometimes  mentioned  and  sung,  that  land, 
that  spot  is  modern  Spain  and  modern  Tarifa.  I have 
heard  the  ballad  of  Alonzo  Guzman  chanted  in  Danish,  by 
a hind  in  the  wilds  of  Jutland;  but  once  speaking  of  “ the 
Faithful  ” to  some  inhabitants  of  Tarifa,  they  replied  that 
they  had  never  heard  of  Guzman  the  faithful  of  Tarifa, 
but  were  acquainted  with  Alonzo  Guzman,  “ the  one-eyed  ” 
{el  tuerto ),  and  that  he  was  one  of  the  most  villainous 
arrieros  on  the  Cadiz  road. 

The  voyage  of  these  narrow  seas  can  scarcely  fail  to 
be  interesting  to  the  most  apathetic  individual,  from  the 
nature  of  the  scenery  which  presents  itself  to  the  eye  on 
either  side.  The  coasts  are  exceedingly  high  and  bold, 
especially  that  of  Spain,  which  seems  to  overthrow  the 
Moorish;  but  opposite  to  Tarifa,  the  African  continent, 
rounding  towards  the  south-west,  assumes  an  air  of  sub- 
limity and  grandeur.  A hoary  mountain  is  seen  uplifting 
its  summits  above  the  clouds:  it  is  Mount  Abyla,  or  as  it  is 
called  in  the  Moorish  tongue,  Gibil  Muza,  or  the  hill  of 
Muza,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  containing  the  sepulchre 
of  a prophet  of  that  name.  This  is  one  of  the  two  ex- 
crescences of  nature  on  which  the  Old  World  bestowed  the 
title  of  the  Pillars  of  Hercules.  Its  skirts  and  sides  occupy 
the  Moorish  coast  for  many  leagues  in  more  than  one 
direction,  but  the  broad  aspect  of  its  steep  and  stupendous 


446 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


front  is  turned  full  towards  that  part  of  the  European 
continent  where  Gibraltar  lies  like  a huge  monster  stretching 
far  into  the  brine.  Of  the  two  hills  or  pillars,  the  most  re- 
markable, when  viewed  from  afar,  is  the  African  one,  Gibil 
Muza.  It  is  the  tallest  and  bulkiest,  and  is  visible  at  a 
greater  distance;  but  scan  them  both  from  near,  and  you 
feel  that  all  your  wonder  is  engrossed  by  the  European 
column.  Gibil  Muza  is  an  immense  shapeless  mass,  a 
wilderness  of  rocks,  with  here  and  there  a few  trees  and 
shrubs  nodding  from  the  clefts  of  its  precipices;  it  is  un- 
inhabited, save  by  wolves,  wild  swine,  and  chattering 
monkeys,  on  which  last  account  it  is  called  by  the  Spaniards, 
Montana  de  las  Monas  (the  hill  of  the  baboons);  whilst,  on 
the  contrary,  Gibraltar,  not  to  speak  of  the  strange  city 
which  covers  part  of  it,  a city  inhabited  by  men  of  all 
nations  and  tongues,  its  batteries  and  excavations,  all  of 
them  miracles  of  art,  is  the  most  singular-looking  mountain 
in  the  world — a mountain  which  can  neither  be  described 
by  pen  nor  pencil,  and  at  which  the  eye  is  never  satiated 
with  gazing. 

It  was  near  sunset,  and  we  were  crossing  the  bay  of 
Gibraltar.  We  had  stopped  at  Algeciras,  on  the  Spanish 
side,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  the  old  governor  and  his 
suite,  and  delivering  and  receiving  letters. 

Algeciras  is  an  ancient  Moorish  town,  as  the  name 
denotes,  which  is  an  Arabic  word,  and  signifies  “ the  place 
of  the  islands.”  It  is  situated  at  the  water’s  edge,  with  a 
lofty  range  of  mountains  in  the  rear.  It  seemed  a sad 
deserted  place,  as  far  as  I could  judge  at  the  distance  of 
half  a mile.  In  the  harbour,  however,  lay  a Spanish 
frigate  and  French  war  brig.  As  we  passed  the  former, 
some  of  the  Spaniards  on  board  our  steamer  became  boastful 
at  the  expense  of  the  English.  It  appeared  that,  a few 
weeks  before,  an  English  vessel,  suspected  to  be  a con- 
traband trader,  was  seen  by  this  frigate  hovering  about  a 
bay  on  the  Andalusian  coast,  in  company  with  an  English 
frigate,  the  Orestes . The  Spaniard  dogged  them  for  some 
time,  till  one  morning  observing  that  the  Orestes  had  dis- 
appeared, he  hoisted  English  colours,  and  made  a signal 
to  the  trader  to  bear  down;  the  latter,  deceived  by  the 
British  ensign,  and  supposing  that  the  Spaniard  was  the 
friendly  Orestes , instantly  drew  near,  was  fired  at  and 
boarded,  and  proving  in  effect  to  be  a contraband  trader, 
she  was  carried  into  port  and  delivered  over  to  the  Spanish 
authorities.  In  a few  days  the  captain  of  the  Orestes 
hearing  of  this,  and  incensed  at  the  unwarrantable  use 
made  of  the  British  flag,  sent  a boat  on  board  the  frigate 
demanding  that  the  vessel  should  be  instantly  restored, 


447 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

as,  if  she  was  not,  he  would  retake  her  by  force;  adding 
that  he  had  forty  cannons  on  board.  The  captain  of  the 
Spanish  frigate  returned  for  answer,  that  the  trader  was  in 
the  hands  of  the  officers  of  the  customs,  and  was  no  longer 
at  his  disposal;  that  the  captain  of  the  Orestes  however, 
could  do  what  he  pleased,  and  that  if  he  had  forty  guns,  he 
himself  had  forty-four;  whereupon  the  Orestes  thought 
proper  to  bear  away.  Such  at  least  was  the  Spanish  account 
as  related  by  the  journals.,.  Observing  the  Spaniards  to  be 
in  great  glee  at  the  idea  of  one  of  their  nation  having 
frightened  away  the  Englishman,  I exclaimed,  “ Gentle- 
men, all  of  you  who  suppose  that  an  English  sea  captain 
has  been  deterred  from  attacking  a Spaniard,  from  an 
apprehension  of  a superior  force  of  four  guns,  remember, 
if  you  please,  the  fate  of  the  Santissima  Trinidad , and  be 
pleased  also  not  to  forget  that  we  are  almost  within  cannon's 
sound  of  Trafalgar." 

It  was  near  sunset,  I repeat,  and  we  were  crossing  the 
bay  of  Gibraltar.  I stood  on  the  prow  of  the  vessel,  with  my 
eyes  intently  fixed  on  the  mountain  fortress,  which,  though 
I had  seen  it  several  times  before,  filled  my  mind  with 
admiration  and  interest.  Viewed  from  this  situation,  it 
certainly,  if  it  resembles  any  animate  object  in  nature,  has 
something  of  the  appearance  of  a terrible  couchant  lion, 
whose  stupendous  head  menaces  Spain.  Had  I been  dream- 
ing, 1 should  almost  have  concluded  it  to  be  the  genius  of 
Africa,  in  the  shape  of  its  most  puissant  monster,  who  had 
bounded  over  the  sea  from  the  clime  of  sand  and  sun,  bent 
on  the  destruction  of  the  rival  continent,  more  especially  as 
the  hue  of  its  stony  sides,  its  crest  and  chine,  is  tawny  even 
as  that  of  the  hide  of  the  desert  king.  A hostile  lion  has  it 
almost  invariably  proved  to  Spain,  at  least  since  it  first  began 
to  play  a part  in  history,  which  was  at  the  time  when  Tarik 
seized  and  fortified  it.  It  has  for  the  most  part  been  in  the 
hands  of  foreigners:  first  the  swarthy  and  turbaned  Moor 
possessed  it,  and  it  is  now  tenanted  by  a fair-haired  race 
from  a distant  isle.  Though  a part  of  Spain,  it  seems  to 
disavow  the  connexion,  and  at  the  end  of  a long  narrow 
sandy  isthmus,  almost  level  with  the  sea,  raising  its  blasted 
and  perpendicular  brow  to  denounce  the  crimes  which 
deform  the  history  of  that  fair  and  majestic  land. 

It  was  near  sunset,  I say  it  for  the  third  time,  and  we 
were  crossing  the  bay  of  Gibraltar.  Bay!  it  seemed  no 
bay,  but  an  inland  sea,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  enchanted 
barriers,  so  strange,  so  wonderful  was  the  aspect  of  its 
coasts,  Before  us  lay  the  impregnable  hill;  on  our  right 
the  African  continent,  with  its  grey  Gibil  Muza,  and  the 
crag  of  Ceuta,  to  which  last  a solitary  bark  seemed  steering 


448 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


its  way;  behind  us  the  town  we  had  just  quitted,  with  its 
mountain  wall;  on  our  left  the  coast  of  Spain.  The  surface 
of  the  water  was  unruffled  by  a wave,  and  as  we  rapidly 
glided  on,  the  strange  object  which  we  were  approaching 
became  momentarily  more  distinct  and  visible.  There,  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  covering  a small  portion  of 
its  side,  lay  the  city,  with  its  ramparts  garnished  with  black 
guns  pointing  significantly  at  its  moles  and  harbours; 
above,  seemingly  on  every  crag  which  could  be  made  avail- 
able for  the  purpose  of  defence  or  destruction,  peered 
batteries,  pale  and  sepulchral-looking,  as  if  ominous  of  the 
fate  which  awaited  any  intrusive  foe;  whilst  east  and  west 
towards  Africa  and  Spain,  on  the  extreme  points,  rose 
castles,  towers,  or  atalaias  which  overcrowded  the  whole, 
and  all  the  circumjacent  region,  whether  land  or  sea. 
Mighty  and  threatening  appeared  the  fortifications,  and 
doubtless,  viewed  in  any  other  situation,  would  have  alone 
occupied  the  mind  and  engrossed  its  wonder;  but  the  hill, 
the  wondrous  hill,  was  everywhere  about  them,  beneath 
them,  or  above  them,  overpowering  their  effect  as  a spec- 
tacle. Who,  when  he  beholds  the  enormous  elephant,  with 
his  brandished  trunk,  dashing  impetuously  to  the  war,  sees 
the  castle  which  he  bears,  or  fears  the  javelins  of  those 
whom  he  carries,  however  skilful  and  warlike  they  may  be? 
Never  does  God  appear  so  great  and  powerful  as  when  the 
works  of  his  hands  stand  in  contrast  with  the  labours  of 
man.  Survey  the  Escurial,  it  is  a proud  work,  but  wonder 
if  you  can  when  you  see  the  mountain  mocking  it  behind; 
survey  that  boast  of  Moorish  kings,  survey  Granada  from 
its  plain,  and  wonder  if  you  can,  for  you  see  the  Alpujarra 
mocking  it  from  behind.  O what  are  the  works  of  man 
compared  with  those  of  the  Lord?  Even  as  man  is  com- 
pared with  his  creator.  Man  builds  pyramids,  and  God 
builds  pyramids:  the  pyramids  of  man  are  heaps  of  shingles, 
tiny  hillocks  on  a sandy  plain;  the  pyramids  of  the  Lord 
are  Andes  and  Indian  hills.  Man  builds  walls  and  so 
does  his  Master;  but  the  walls  of  God  are  the  black  pre- 
cipices of  Gibraltar  and  Horneel,  eternal,  indestructible, 
and  not  to  be  scaled;  whilst  those  of  man  can  be  climbed, 
can  be  broken  by  the  wave  or  shattered  by  the  lightning 
or  the  powder  blast.  Would  man  display  his  power  and 
grandeur  to  advantage,  let  him  flee  far  from  the  hills ; for  the 
broad  pennants  of  God,  even  his  clouds,  float  upon  the  tops 
of  the  hills,  and  the  majesty  of  God  is  most  manifest  among 
the  hills.  Gall  Gibraltar  the  hill  of  Tarik  or  Hercules  if  you 
will,  but  gaze  upon  it  for  a moment  and  you  will  call  it  the 
hill  of  God.  Tarik  and  the  old  giant  may  have  built  upon 
it;  but  not  all  the  dark  race  of  whom  Tarik  was  one,  nor  all 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


449 


the  giants  of  old  renown  of  whom  the  other  was  one,  could 
have  built  up  its  crags  or  chiseled  the  enormous  mass  to  its 
present  shape. 

We  dropped  anchor  not  far  from  the  mole.  As  we 
expected  every  moment  to  hear  the  evening  gun,  after 
which  no  person  is  permitted  to  enter  the  town,  I was  in 
trepidation  lest  I should  be  obliged  to  pass  the  night  on 
board  the  dirty  Catalan  steamer,  which,  as  I had  no  occasion 
to  proceed  farther  in  her,  I was  in  great  haste  to  quit.  A 
boat  now  drew  nigh,  with  two  individuals  at  the  stern, 
one  of  whom,  standing  up,  demanded,  in  an  authori- 
tative voice,  the  name  of  the  vessel,  her  destination  and 
cargo.  Upon  being  answered,  they  came  on  board.  After 
some  conversation  with  the  captain,  they  were  about  to 
depart,  when  I inquired  whether  I could  accompany  them 
on  shore.  The  person  I addressed  was  a tall  young  man, 
with  a fustian  frock  coat.  He  had  a long  face,  long  nose, 
and  wide  mouth,  with  large  restless  eyes.  There  was  a grin 
on  his  countenance  which  seemed  permanent,  and  had  it 
not  been  for  his  bronzed  complexion,  I should  have  declared 
him  to  be  a cockney,  and  nothing  else.  He  was,  however, 
no  such  thing,  but  what  is  called  a rock  lizard,  that  is,  a 
person  born  at  Gibraltar  of  English  parents.  Upon  hearing 
my  question,  which  was  in  Spanish,  he  grinned  more  than 
ever,  and  inquired,  in  a strange  accent,  whether  I was  a son 
of  Gibraltar.  I replied  that  I had  not  that  honour,  but 
that  I was  a British  subject.  Whereupon  he  said  that  he 
should  make  no  difficulty  in  taking  me  ashore.  We  entered 
the  boat,  which  was  rapidly  rowed  towards  the  land  by  four 
Genoese  sailors.  My  two  companions  chattered  in  their 
strange  Spanish,  he  of  the  fustian  occasionally  turning  his 
countenance  full  upon  me,  the  last  grin  appearing  ever  more 
hideous  than  the  preceding  ones.  We  soon  reached  the 
quay,  where  my  name  was  noted  down  by  a person  who 
demanded  my  passport,  and  I was  then  permitted  to 
advance. 

It  was  now  dusk,  and  I lost  no  time  in  crossing  the 
drawbridge  and  entering  the  long  low  archway  which, 
passing  under  the  rampart,  communicates  with  the  town. 
Beneath  this  archway  paced  with  measured  tread,  tall  red- 
coated  sentinels  with  shouldered  guns.  There  was  no 
stopping,  no  sauntering  in  these  men.  There  was  no 
laughter,  no  exchange  of  light  conversation  with  the  passers 
by,  but  their  bearing  was  that  of  British  soldiers,  conscious 
of  the  duties  of  their  station.  What  a difference  between 
them  and  the  listless  loiterers  who  stand  at  guard  at  the 
gate  of  a Spanish  garrisoned  town. 

I now  proceeded  up  the  principal  street,  which  runs  with 
33^p 


450 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


a gentle  ascent  along  the  base  of  the  hill.  Accustomed  for 
some  months  past  to  the  melancholy  silence  of  Seville, 

I was  almost  deafened  by  the  noise  and  bustle  which 
reigned  around.  It  was  Sunday  night,  and  of  course  no 
business  was  going  on,  but  there  were  throngs  of  people 
passing  up  and  down.  Here  was  a military  guard  pro- 
ceeding along;  here  walked  a group  of  officers,  there  a knot 
of  soldiers  stood  talking  and  laughing.  The  greater  part  of 
the  civilians  appeared  to  be  Spaniards,  but  there  was  a large 
sprinkling  of  Jews  in  the  dress  of  those  of  Barbary,  and  here 
and  there  a turbaned  Moor.  There  were  gangs  of  sailors 
likewise,  Genoese,  judging  from  the  patois  which  they  were 
speaking,  though  I occasionally  distinguished  the  sound  of 
“ tou  logou  sas,”  by  which  I knew  there  were  Greeks  at  hand, 
and  twice  or  thrice  caught  a glimpse  of  the  red  cap  and  blue 
silken  petticoats  of  the  mariner  from  the  Romaic  isles. 
On  still  I hurried,  till  I arrived  at  a well  known  hostelry, 
close  by  a kind  of  square,  in  which  stands  the  little  exchange 
of  Gibraltar.  Into  this  I ran  and  demanded  lodging, 
receiving  a cheerful  welcome  from  the  genius  of  the  place, 
who  stood  behind  the  bar,  and  whom  I shall  perhaps  have 
occasion  subsequently  to  describe.  All  the  lower  rooms 
were  filled  with  men  of  the  rock,  burly  men  in  general,  with 
swarthy  complexions  and  English  features,  with  white  hats, 
white  jean  jerkins,  and  white  jean  pantaloons.  They  were 
smoking  pipes  and  cigars,  and  drinking  porter,  wine,  and 
various  other  fluids,  and  conversing  in  the  rock  Spanish,  or  , 
rock  English  as  the  fit  took  them.  Dense  was  the  smoke  of 
tobacco,  and  great  the  din  of  voices,  and  I was  glad  to  hasten 
up  stairs  to  an  unoccupied  apartment,  where  I was  served 
with  some  refreshment,  of  which  I stood  much  in  need. 

I was  soon  disturbed  by  the  sound  of  martial  music  close 
below  my  windows.  I went  down  and  stood  at  the  door. 

A military  band  was  marshalled  upon  the  little  square  before 
the  exchange.  It  was  preparing  to  beat  the  retreat.  After 
the  prelude,  which  was  admirably  executed,  the  tall  leader 
gave  a flourish  with  his  stick,  and  strode  forward  up  the 
street,  followed  by  the  whole  company  of  noble  looking  ; 
fellows  and  a crowd  of  admiring  listeners.  The  cymbals 
clashed,  the  horns  screamed,  and  the  kettle-drum  emitted  its 
deep  awful  note,  till  the  old  rock  echoed  again,  and  the 
hanging  terraces  of  the  town  rang  with  the  stirring  noise: 

“ Dub-a-dub,  dub-a-dub — thus  go  the  drums, 

Tantara,  tantara,  the  Englishman  comes.” 

O England!  long,  long  may  it  be  ere  the  sun  of  thy  glory 
sink  beneath  the  wave  of  darkness!  Though  gloomy  and 
portentous  clouds  are  now  gathering  rapidly  around  thee, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


451 


still,  still  may  it  please  the  Almighty  to  disperse  them,  and 
to  grant  thee  a futurity  longer  in  duration  and  still  brighter 
in  renown  than  thy  pastl  Or  if  thy  doom  be  at  hand,  may 
that  doom  be  a noble  one,  and  worthy  of  her  who  has  been 
styled  the  Old  Queen  of  the  waters  I May  thou  sink,  if 
thou  dost  sink,  amidst  blood  and  flame,  with  a mighty  noise, 
causing  more  than  one  nation  to  participate  in  thy  downfall! 
Of  all  fates,  may  it  please  the  Lord  to  preserve  thee  from 
a disgraceful  and  a slow  decay;  becoming,  ere  extinct, 
a scorn  and  a mockery  for  those  selfsame  foes  who  now, 
though  they  envy  and  abhor  thee,  still  fear  thee,  nay,  even 
against  their  will,  honour  and  respect  thee. 

Arouse  thee,  whilst  yet  there  is  time,  and  prepare  thee 
for  the  combat  of  life  and  death!  Cast  from  thee  the  foul 
scurf  which  now  encrusts  thy  robust  limbs,  which  deadens 
their  force,  and  makes  them  heavy  and  powerless!  Cast 
from  thee  thy  false  philosophers,  who  would  fain  decry  what, 
next  to  the  love  of  God,  has  hitherto  been  deemed  most 
sacred,  the  love  of  the  mother  land!  Cast  from  thee  thy 
false  patriots,  who,  under  the  pretext  of  redressing  the 
wrongs  of  the  poor  and  weak,  seek  to  promote  internal 
discord,  so  that  thou  mayest  become  only  terrible  to  thyself! 
And  remove  from  thee  the  false  prophets,  who  have  seen 
vanity  and  divined  lies;  who  have  daubed  thy  wall  with 
untempered  mortar,  that  it  may  fall ; who  see  visions  of  peace 
where  there  is  no  peace;  who  have  strengthened  the  hands 
of  the  wicked,  and  made  the  heart  of  the  righteous  sad. 
O,  do  this,  and  fear  not  the  result,  for  either  shall  thy  end 
be  a majestic  and  an  enviable  one,  or  God  shall  perpetuate 
thy  reign  upon  the  waters,  thou  old  Queen! 

The  above  was  part  of  a broken  prayer  for  my  native 
land,  which,  after  my  usual  thanksgiving,  I breathed  to  the 
Almighty  ere  retiring  to  rest  that  Sunday  night  at 
Gibraltar. 


452 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  LII 

The  Jolly  Hosteler  — Aspirants  for  Glory  — A Portrait  — Hamalos — 
Solomons — An  Expedition — The  Yeoman  Soldier — The  Excavations 
— The  Pull  by  the  Skirt — Judah  and  his  Father  — Judah’s  Pilgrimage 
— The  Bushy  Beard — The  False  Moors — Judah  and  the  King’s  Son — 
Premature  Old  Age. 

Perhaps  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  have  chosen  a 
situation  more  adapted  for  studying  at  my  ease  Gibraltar 
and  its  inhabitants,  than  that  which  I found  myself  occupy- 
ing about  ten  o’clock  on  the  following  morning.  Seated  on 
a small  bench  just  opposite  the  bar,  close  by  the  door,  in 
the  passage  of  the  hostelry  at  which  I had  taken  up  my 
temporary  abode,  I enjoyed  a view  of  the  square  of  the 
exchange  and  all  that  was  going  on  there,  and  by  merely 
raising  my  eyes,  could  gaze  at  my  leisure  on  the  stupendous 
hill  which  towers  above  the  town  to  an  altitude  of  some 
thousand  feet.  I could  likewise  observe  every  person  who 
entered  or  left  the  house,  which  is  one  of  great  resort,  being 
situated  in  the  most-frequented  place  of  the  principal 
thoroughfare  of  the  town.  My  eyes  were  busy  and  so  were 
my  ears.  Close  beside  me  stood  my  excellent  friend 
Griffiths,  the  jolly  hosteler,  of  whom  I take  the  present 
opportunity  of  saying  a few  words,  though  I dare  say  he  has 
been  frequently  described  before,  and  by  far  better  pens. 
Let  those  who  know  him  not  figure  to  themselves  a man  of 
about  fifty,  at  least  six  feet  in  height,  and  weighing  some 
eighteen  stone,  an  exceedingly  florid  countenance  and  good 
features,  eyes  full  of  quickness  and  shrewdness,  but  at  the 
same  time  beaming  with  good  nature.  He  wears  white 
pantaloons,  white  frock,  and  white  hat,  and  is,  indeed,  all 
white,  with  the  exception  of  his  polished  Wellingtons  and 
rubicund  face.  He  carries  a whip  beneath  his  arm,  which 
adds  wonderfully  to  the  knowingness  of  his  appearance, 
which  is  rather  more  that  of  a gentleman  who  keeps  an  inn 
on  the  Newmarket  road,  “ purely  for  the  love  of  travellers, 
and  the  money  which  they  carry  about  them,”  than  of  a 
native  of  the  rock.  Nevertheless,  he  will  tell  you  himself 
that  he  is  a rock  lizard ; and  you  will  scarcely  doubt  it  when, 
besides  his  English,  which  is  broad  and  vernacular,  you  hear 
him  speak  Spanish,  ay,  and  Genoese  too,  when  necessary, 
and  it  is  no  child’s  play  to  speak  the  latter,  which  I myself 
could  never  master.  He  is  a good  judge  of  horse-flesh,  and 
occasionally  sells  a “ bit  of  a blood,”  or  a Barbary  steed  to  a 
young  hand,  though  he  has  no  objection  to  do  business  with 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


453 


an  old  one;  for  there  is  not  a thin,  crouching,  liver-faced, 
lynx-eyed  Jew  of  Fez  capable  of  outwitting  him  in  a bargain, 
or  cheating  him  out  of  one  single  pound  of  the  fifty  thousand 
sterling  which  he  possesses;  and  yet  ever  bear  in  mind  that 
he  is  a good-natured  fellow  to  those  who  are  disposed  to 
behave  honourably  to  him,  and  know  likewise  that  he  will 
lend  you  money,  if  you  are  a gentleman,  and  are  in  need  of 
it;  but  depend  upon  it,  if  he  refuse  you,  there  is  something 
not  altogether  right  about  you,  for  Griffiths  knows  his  world , 
and  is  not  to  be  made  a fool  of. 

There  was  a prodigious  quantity  of  porter  consumed  in 
my  presence  during  the  short  hour  that  I sat  on  the  bench  of 
that  hostelry  of  the  rock.  The  passage  before  the  bar  was 
frequently  filled  with  officers,  who  lounged  in  for  a refresh- 
ment which  the  sultry  heat  of  the  weather  rendered  necessary, 
or  at  least  inviting;  whilst  not  a few  came  galloping  up  to 
the  door  on  small  Barbary  horses,  which  are  to  be  found  in 
great  abundance  at  Gibraltar.  All  seemed  to  be  on  the  best 
terms  with  the  host,  with  whom  they  occasionally  discussed 
the  merits  of  particular  steeds,  and  whose  jokes  they  in- 
variably received  with  unbounded  approbation.  There  was 
much  in  the  demeanour  and  appearance  of  these  young  men, 
for  the  greater  part  were  quite  young,  which  was  highly 
interesting  and  agreeable.  Indeed,  I believe  it  may  be  said 
of  English  officers  in  general,  that  in  personal  appearance, 
and  in  polished  manners,  they  bear  the  palm  from  those  of 
the  same  class  over  the  world.  True  it  is,  that  the  officers 
of  the  royal  guard  of  Russia,  especially  of  the  three  noble 
regiments  styled  the  Priberjensky,  Simeonsky,  and 
Finlansky  polks  might  fearlessly  enter  into  competition 
in  almost  all  points  with  the  flower  of  the  British  army; 
but  it  must  be  remembered,  that  those  regiments  are 
officered  by  the  choicest  specimens  of  the  Sclavonian  nobility, 
young  men  selected  expressly  for  the  splendour  of  their 
persons,  and  for  the  superiority  of  their  mental  endow- 
ments; whilst,  probably,  amongst  all  the  fair-haired  Anglo- 
Saxons  youths  whom  I now  saw  gathered  near  me,  there  was 
not  a single  one  of  noble  ancestry,  nor  of  proud  and  haughty 
name;  and  certainly,  so  far  from  having  been  selected  to 
flatter  the  pride  and  add  to  the  pomp  of  a despot,  they  had 
been  taken  indiscriminately  from  a mass  of  ardent  aspirants 
for  military  glory,  and  sent  on  their  country's  service  to  a 
remote  and  unhealthy  colony.  Nevertheless,  they  were 
such  as  their  country  might  be  proud  of,  for  gallant  boys  they 
looked,  with  courage  on  their  brows,  beauty  and  health  on 
their  cheeks,  and  intelligence  in  their  hazel  eyes. 

Who  is  he  who  now  stops  before  the  door  without  entering, 
and  addresses  a question  to  my  host,  who  advances  with  a 


454 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


respectful  salute?  He  is  no  common  man,  or  his  appearance 
belies  him  strangely.  His  dress  is  simple  enough;  a Spanish 
hat,  with  a peaked  crown  and  broad  shadowy  brim — the 
veritable  sombrero — jean  pantaloons  and  blue  hussar 
jacket; — but  how  well  that  dress  becomes  one  of  the  most 
noble-looking  figures  I ever  beheld.  I gazed  upon  him 
with  strange  respect  and  admiration  as  he  stood  benignantly 
smiling  and  joking  in  good  Spanish  with  an  impudent  rock 
rascal,  who  held  in  his  hand  a huge  bogamante,  or  coarse 
carrion  lobster,  which  he  would  fain  have  persuaded  him  to 
purchase.  He  was  almost  gigantically  tall,  towering  nearly 
three  inches  above  the  burly  host  himself,  yet  athletically 
symmetrical,  and  straight  as  the  pine  tree  of  Dovrefeld. 
He  must  have  counted  eleven  lustres,  which  cast  an  air 
of  mature  dignity  over  a countenance  which  seemed  to  have 
been  chiseled  by  some  Grecian  sculptor,  and  yet  his  hair  was 
black  as  the  plume  of  the  Norwegian  raven,  and  so  was  the 
moustache  which  curled  above  his  well-formed  lip.  In  the 
garb  of  Greece,  and  in  the  camp  before  Troy,  I should  have 
taken  him  for  Agamemnon.  “ Is  that  man  a general?  ” 
said  I to  a short  queer-looking  personage,  who  sat  by  my 
side,  intently  studying  a newspaper.  “ That  gentleman,” 
he  whispered  in  a lisping  accent,  “ is,  sir,  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Gibraltar.” 

On  either  side  outside  the  door,  squatting  on  the  ground, 
or  leaning  indolently  against  the  walls,  were  some  half 
dozen  men  of  very  singular  appearance.  Their  principal 
garment  was  a kind  of  blue  gown,  something  resembling 
the  blouse  worn  by  the  peasants  of  the  north  of  France, 
but  not  so  long;  it  was  compressed  around  their  waists 
by  a leathern  girdle,  and  depended  about  half  way  down 
their  thighs.  Their  legs  were  bare,  so  that  I had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  observing  the  calves,  which  appeared  unnaturally 
large.  Upon  the  head  they  wore  small  skull-caps  of  black 
wool.  I asked  the  most  athletic  of  these  men,  a dark- 
visaged  fellow  of  forty,  who  they  were.  He  answered, 
“ hamalos.”  This  word  I knew  to  be  Arabic,  in  which 
tongue  it  signifies  a porter;  and,  indeed,  the  next  moment, 
I saw  a similar  fellow  staggering  across  the  square  under  an 
immense  burden,  almost  sufficient  to  have  broken  the  back 
of  a camel.  On  again  addressing  my  swarthy  friend,  and 
enquiring  whence  he  came,  he  replied,  that  he  was  born  at 
Mogadore,  in  Barbary,  but  had  passed  the  greatest  part  of 
his  life  at  Gibraltar.  He  added,  that  he  was  the  “ capitaz,” 
or  head  man  of  the  “ hamalos  ” near  the  door.  I now 
addressed  him  in  the  Arabic  of  the  East,  though  with  scarcely 
the  hope  of  being  understood,  more  especially  as  he  had  been 
so  long  from  his  own  country.  He  however  answered  very 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


455 


pertinently,  his  lips  quivering  with  eagerness,  and  his  eyes 
sparkling  with  joy,  though  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that  the 
Arabic,  or  rather  the  Moorish,  was  not  the  language  in  which 
he  was  accustomed  either  to  think  or  speak.  His  com- 
panions all  gathered  round  and  listened  with  avidity, 
occasionally  exclaiming,  when  anything  was  said  which  they 
approved  of:  “ Wakhnd  rajil  shereef  hada,  min  beled  bel 

scharki”  (A  holy  man  this  from  the  kingdoms  of  the  East.) 
At  last  I produced  the  shekel,  which  I invariably  carry 
about  me  as  a pocket-piece,  and  asked  the  capitaz  whether 
he  had  ever  seen  that  money  before.  He  surveyed  the  censer 
and  olive-branch  for  a considerable  time,  and  evidently 
knew  not  what  to  make  of  it.  At  length  he  fell  to  inspecting 
the  characters  round  about  it  on  both  sides,  and  giving  a 
cry,  exclaimed  to  the  other  hamalos:  “ Brothers,  brothers, 
these  are  the  letters  of  Solomon.  This  silver  is  blessed. 
We  must  kiss  this  money.”  He  then  put  it  upon  his  head, 
pressed  it  to  his  eyes,  and  finally  kissed  it  with  enthusiasm, 
as  did  successively  all  his  brethren.  Then  regaining  it, 
he  returned  it  to  me,  with  a low  reverence.  Griffiths  subse- 
quently informed  me,  that  the  fellow  refused  to  work  during 
all  the  rest  of  the  day,  and  did  nothing  but  smile,  laugh,  and 
talk  to  himself. 

“ Allow  me  to  offer  you  a glass  of  bitters,  sir,”  said  the 
queer-looking  personage  before  mentioned;  he  was  a 
corpulent  man,  very  short,  and  his  legs  particularly  so. 
His  dress  consisted  of  a greasy  snuff-coloured  coat,  dirty 
white  trousers,  and  dirtier  stockings.  On  his  head  he  wore 
a rusty  silk  hat,  the  eaves  of  which  had  a tendency  to  turn  up 
before  and  behind.  I had  observed  that,  during  my  conver- 
sation with  the  hamalos,  he  had  several  times  uplifted  his 
eyes  from  the  newspaper,  and  on  the  production  of  the  shekel 
had  grinned  very  significantly,  and  had  inspected  it  when 
in  the  hand  of  the  capitaz.  “ Allow  me  to  offer  you  a glass 
of  bitters,”  said  he;  “ I guessed  you  was  one  of  our  people 
before  you  spoke  to  the  hamalos.  Sir,  it  does  my  heart  good 
to  see  a gentleman  of  your  appearance  not  above  speaking  to 
his  poor  brethren.  It  is  what  I do  myself  not  unfrequently, 
and  I hope  God  will  blot  out  my  name,  and  that  is  Solomons, 
when  I despise  them.  I do  not  pretend  to  much  Arabic 
myself,  yet  I understood  you  tolerably  well,  and  I liked  your 
discourse  much.  You  must  have  a great  deal  of  shillam 
eidri,  nevertheless  you  startled  me  when  you  asked  the 
hamalo  if  he  ever  read  the  Torah;  of  course  you  meant  with 
the  meforshim;  poor  as  he  is,  I do  not  believe  him  becoresh 
enough  to  read  the  Torah  without  the  commentators. 
So  help  me,  sir,  I believe  you  to  be  a Salamancan  Jew;  I 
am  told  there  are  still  some  of  the  old  families  to  be  found 


456 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


there.  Ever  at  Tudela,  sir?  not  very  far  from  Salamanca, 
I believe;  one  of  my  own  kindred  once  lived  there:  a great 
traveller,  sir,  like  yourself;  went  over  all  the  world  to  look 
for  the  Jews, — went  to  the  top  of  Sinai.  Anything  that  I 
can  do  for  you  at  Gibraltar,  sir?  Any  commission;  will 
execute  it  as  reasonably,  and  more  expeditiously  than  any 
one  else.  My  name  is  Solomons.  I am  tolerably  well 
known  at  Gibraltar;  yes,  sir,  and  in  the  Crooked  Friars,  and, 
for  that  matter,  in  the  Neuen  Stein  Steg,  at  Hamburgh; 
so  help  me,  sir,  I think  I once  saw  your  face  at  the  fair  at 
Bremen.  Speak  German,  sir?  though  of  course  you  do. 
Allow  me,  sir,  to  offer  you  a glass  of  bitters.  I wish,  sir, 
they  were  mayim,  hayim  for  your  sake,  I do  indeed,  sir, 
I wish  they  were  living  waters.  Now,  sir,  do  give  me  your 
opinion  as  to  this  matter  (lowering  his  voice  and  striking 
the  newspaper).  Do  you  not  think  it  is  very  hard  that  one 
Yudken  should  betray  the  other?  When  I put  my  little 
secret  beyad  peluni, — you  understand  me,  sir? — when  I 
entrust  my  poor  secret  to  the  custody  of  an  individual,  and 
that  individual  a Jew,  a Yudken,  sir,  I do  not  wish  to  be 
blown,  indeed,  I do  not  expect  it.  In  a word,  what  do  you 
think  of  the  gold  dust  robbery , and  what  will  be  done  to  those 
unfortunate  people,  who  I see  are  convicted?  ” 

That  same  day  I made  enquiry  respecting  the  means  of 
transferring  myself  to  Tangier,  having  no  wish  to  prolong 
my  stay  at  Gibraltar,  where,  though  it  is  an  exceedingly 
interesting  place  to  an  observant  traveller,  I had  no  particu- 
lar business  to  detain  me.  In  the  evening  I was  visited 
by  a Jew,  a native  of  Barbary,  who  informed  me  that  he 
was  secretary  to  the  master  of  a small  Genoese  bark  which 
plied  between  Tangier  and  Gibraltar.  Upon  his  assuring 
me  that  the  vessel  would  infallibly  start  for  the  former 
place  on  the  following  evening,  I agreed  with  him  for  my 
passage.  He  said  that  as  the  wind  was  blowing  from  the 
Levant  quarter,  the  voyage  would  be  a speedy  one.  Being 
desirous  now  of  disposing  to  the  most  advantage  of  the  short 
time  which  I expected  to  remain  at  Gibraltar,  I determined 
upon  visiting  the  excavations,  which  I had  as  yet  never  seen, 
on  the  following  morning,  and  accordingly  sent  for  and  easily 
obtained  the  necessary  permission. 

About  six  on  Tuesday  morning,  I started  on  this  ex- 
pedition, attended  by  a very  intelligent  good-looking  lad 
of  the  Jewish  persuasion,  one  of  two  brothers  who  officiated 
at  the  inn  in  the  capacity  of  valets  de  place. 

The  morning  was  dim  and  hazy,  yet  sultry  to  a degree. 
We  ascended  a precipitous  street,  and  proceeding  in  an 
easterly  direction,  soon  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  what  is 
generally  known  by  the  name  of  the  Moorish  Castle,  a large 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


457 


tower,  but  so  battered  by  the  cannon  balls  discharged  against 
it  in  the  famous  siege,  that  it  is  at  present  little  better  than 
a ruin;  hundreds  of  round  holes  are  to  be  seen  in  its  sides, 
in  which,  as  it  is  said,  the  shot  are  still  imbedded;  here,  at 
a species  of  hut,  we  were  joined  by  an  artillery  sergeant, 
who  was  to  be  our  guide.  After  saluting  us,  he  led  the  way 
to  a huge  rock,  where  he  unlocked  a gate  at  the  entrance  of  a 
dark  vaulted  passage  which  passed  under  it,  emerging  from 
which  passage  we  found  ourselves  in  a steep  path,  or  rather 
staircase,  with  walls  on  either  side. 

We  proceeded  very  leisurely,  for  hurry  in  such  a situation 
would  have  been  of  little  avail,  as  we  should  have  lost  our 
breath  in  a minute’s  time.  The  soldier,  perfectly  well 
acquainted  with  the  locality,  stalked  along  with  measured 
steps,  his  eyes  turned  to  the  ground. 

I looked  fully  as  much  at  that  man  as  at  the  strange 
place  where  we  now  were,  and  which  was  every  moment 
becoming  stranger.  He  was  a fine  specimen  of  the  yeoman 
turned  soldier;  indeed,  the  corps  to  which  he  belonged 
consists  almost  entirely  of  that  class.  There  he  paces  along, 
tall,  strong,  ruddy,  and  chestnut-haired,  an  Englishman 
every  inch;  behold  him  pacing  along,  sober,  silent,  and  civil, 
a genuine  English  soldier.  I prize  the  sturdy  Scot,  I love 
the  daring  and  impetuous  Irishman;  I admire  all  the  various 
races  which  constitute  the  population  of  the  British  isles; 
yet  I must  say  that,  upon  the  whole,  none  are  so  well  adapted 
to  ply  the  soldier’s  hardy  trade  as  the  rural  sons  of  old 
England,  so  strong,  so  cool,  yet,  at  the  same  time,  animated 
with  so  much  hidden  fire.  Turn  to  the  history  of  England 
and  you  will  at  once  perceive  of  what  such  men  are  capable; 
even  at  Hastings,  in  the  grey  old  time,  under  almost  every 
disadvantage,  weakened  by  a recent  and  terrible  conflict, 
without  discipline,  comparatively  speaking,  and  uncouthly 
armed,  they  all  but  vanquished  the  Norman  chivalry. 
Trace  their  deeds  in  France,  which  they  twice  subdued; 
and  even  follow  them  to  Spain,  where  they  twanged  the  yew 
and  raised  the  battle-axe,  and  left  behind  them  a name  of 
glory  at  Inglis  Mendi,  a name  that  shall  last  till  fire  con- 
sumes the  Cantabrian  hills.  And,  oh,  in  modern  times, 
trace  the  deeds  of  these  gallant  men  all  over  the  world,  and 
especially  in  France  and  Spain,  and  admire  them,  even  as  I 
did  that  sober,  silent,  soldier-like  man  who  was  showing  me 
the  wonders  of  a foreign  mountain  fortress,  wrested  by  his 
countrymen  from  a powerful  and  proud  nation  more  than  a 
century  before,  and  of  which  he  was  now  a trusty  and 
efficient  guardian. 

We  arrived  close  to  the  stupendous  precipice,  which 
rises  abruptly  above  the  isthmus  called  the  neutral  ground, 


458 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


staring  gauntly  and  horridly  at  Spain,  and  immediately 
entered  the  excavations.  They  consist  of  galleries  scooped 
in  the  living  rock  at  the  distance  of  some  twelve  feet  from 
the  outside,  behind  which  they  run  the  whole  breadth  of 
the  hill  in  this  direction.  In  these  galleries,  at  short 
distances,  are  ragged  yawning  apertures,  all  formed  by  the 
hand  of  man,  where  stand  the  cannon  upon  neat  slightly- 
raised  pavements  of  small  flint  stones,  each  with  its  pyramid 
of  bullets  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  a box,  in  which  is 
stowed  the  gear  which  the  gunner  requires  in  the  exercise 
of  his  craft.  Everything  was  in  its  place,  everything  in  the 
nicest  English  order,  everything  ready  to  scathe  and  over- 
whelm in  a few  moments  the  proudest  and  most  numerous 
host  which  might  appear  marching  in  hostile  array  against 
this  singular  fortress  on  the  land  side. 

There  is  not  much  variety  in  these  places,  one  cavern 
and  one  gun  resembling  the  other.  As  for  the  guns,  they 
are  not  of  large  calibre,  indeed,  such  are  not  needed  here, 
where  a pebble  discharged  from  so  great  an  altitude  would 
be  fraught  with  death.  On  descending  a shaft,  however, 
I observed,  in  one  cave  of  special  importance,  two  enormous 
carronades  looking  with  peculiar  wickedness  and  malignity 
down  a shelving  rock,  which  perhaps,  although  not  without 
tremendous  difficulty,  might  be  scaled.  The  mere  wind  of 
one  of  these  huge  guns  would  be  sufficient  to  topple  over  a 
thousand  men.  What  sensations  of  dread  and  horror 
must  be  awakened  in  the  breast  of  a foe  when  this  hollow 
rock,  in  the  day  of  siege,  emits  its  flame,  smoke,  and  thunder- 
ing wind  from  a thousand  yawning  holes ; horror  not  inferior 
to  that  felt  by  the  peasant  of  the  neighbourhood  when  Mon- 
gibello  belches  forth  from  all  its  orifices  its  sulphureous  fires. 

Emerging  from  the  excavations,  we  proceeded  to  view 
various  batteries.  I asked  the  sergeant  whether  his  com- 
panions and  himself  were  dexterous  at  the  use  of  the  guns. 
He  replied  that  these  cannons  were  to  them  what  the 
fowling-piece  is  to  the  fowler,  that  they  handled  them  as 
easily,  and,  he  believed,  pointed  them  with  more  precision, 
as  they  seldom  or  never  missed  an  object  within  range  of 
the  shot.  This  man  never  spoke  until  he  was  addressed, 
and  then  the  answers  which  he  gave  were  replete  with  good 
sense,  and  in  general  well  worded.  After  our  excursion, 
which  lasted  at  least  two  hours,  I made  him  a small  present, 
and  took  leave  with  a hearty  shake  of  the  hand. 

In  the  evening  I prepared  to  go  on  board  the  vessel 
bound  for  Tangier,  trusting  in  what  the  Jewish  secretary 
had  told  me  as  to  its  sailing.  Meeting  him,  however, 
accidentally  in  the  street,  he  informed  me  that  it  would 
not  start  until  the  following  morning,  advising  me  at  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


459 


same  time  to  be  on  board  at  an  early  hour.  I now  roamed 
about  the  streets  until  night  was  beginning  to  set  in,  and 
becoming  weary,  I was  just  about  to  direct  my  steps  to  the 
inn,  when  I felt  myself  gently  pulled  by  the  skirt.  I was 
amidst  a concourse  of  people  who  were  gathered  around 
some  Irish  soldiers  who  were  disputing,  and  I paid  no 
attention;  but  I was  pulled  again  more  forcibly  than  before, 
and  I heard  myself  addressed  in  a language  which  I had  half 
forgotten,  and  which  I scarcely  expected  ever  to  hear  again. 

I looked  round,  and  lo ! a tall  figure  stood  close  to  me  and 
gazed  in  my  face  with  anxious  inquiring  eyes.  On  its  head 
was  the  kauk  or  furred  cap  of  Jerusalem;  depending  from 
its  shoulders,  and  almost  trailing  on  the  ground,  was  a broad 
blue  mantle,  whilst  kandrisa  or  Turkish  trousers  enveloped 
its  nether  limbs.  I gazed  on  the  figure  as  wistfully  as  it 
gazed  upon  me.  At  first  the  features  appeared  perfectly 
strange,  and  I was  about  to  exclaim,  I know  you  not,  when 
one  or  two  lineaments  struck  me,  and  I cried,  though  some- 
what hesitatingly,  “ Surely  this  is  Judah  Lib.” 

I was  in  a steamer  in  the  Baltic  in  the  year  '34,  if  I 
mistake  not.  There  was  a drizzling  rain  and  a high  sea, 
when  I observed  a young  man  of  about  two  and  twenty 
leaning  in  a melancholy  attitude  against  the  side  of  the 
vessel.  By  his  countenance  I knew  him  to  be  one  of  the 
Hebrew  race,  nevertheless  there  was  something  very  singular 
in  his  appearance,  something  which  is  rarely  found  amongst 
that  people,  a certain  air  of  nobleness  which  highly  interested 
me.  I approached  him,  and  in  a few  minutes  we  were  in 
earnest  conversation.  He  spoke  Polish  and  Jewish  German 
indiscriminately.  The  story  which  he  related  to  me  was 
highly  extraordinary,  yet  I yielded  implicit  credit  to  all  his 
words,  which  came  from  his  mouth  with  an  air  of  sincerity 
which  precluded  doubt;  and,  moreover,  he  could  have  no 
motive  for  deceiving  me.  One  idea,  one  object,  engrossed 
him  entirely:  “ My  father,”  said  he,  in  language  which 
strongly  marked  his  race,  “ was  a native  of  Galatia,  a 
Jew  of  high  caste,  a learned  man,  for  he  knew  Zohar  * and 
he  was  likewise  skilled  in  medicine.  When  I was  a child 
of  some  eight  years,  he  left  Galatia,  and  taking  his  wife, 
who  was  my  mother,  and  myself  with  him,  he  bent  his 
way  unto  the  East,  even  to  Jerusalem;  there  he  established 
himself  as  a merchant,  for  he  was  acquainted  with  trade  and 
the  arts  of  getting  money.  He  was  much  respected  by  the 
Rabbins  of  Jerusalem,  for  he  was  a Polish  man,  and  he  knew 
more  Zohar  and  more  secrets  than  the  wisest  of  them.  He 

* A Rabbinical  book,  very  difficult  to  be  understood,  though  written 
avowedly  for  the  purpose  of  elucidating  many  points  connected  with  the 
religious  ceremonies  of  the  Hebrews. 


460 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


made  frequent  journeys,  and  was  absent  for  weeks  and  for 
months,  but  he  never  exceeded  six  moons.  My  father  loved 
me,  and  he  taught  me  part  of  what  he  knew  in  the  moments 
of  his  leisure.  I assisted  him  in  his  trade,  but  he  took  me 
not  with  him  in  his  journeys.  We  had  a shop  at  Jerusalem, 
even  a shop  of  commerce,  where  we  sold  the  goods  of  the 
Nazarene,  and  my  mother  and  myself,  and  even  a little 
sister  who  was  born  shortly  after  our  arrival  at  Jerusalem, 
all  assisted  my  father  in  his  commerce.  At  length  it  came 
to  pass,  that  on  a particular  time  he  told  us  that  he  was 
going  on  a journey,  and  he  embraced  us  and  bade  us  fare- 
well, and  he  departed,  whilst  we  continued  at  Jerusalem 
attending  to  the  business.  We  awaited  his  return,  but 
months  passed,  even  six  months,  and  he  came  not,  and  we 
wondered;  and  months  passed,  even  other  six  passed,  but 
still  he  came  not,  nor  did  we  hear  any  tidings  of  him,  and  our 
hearts  were  filled  with  heaviness  and  sorrow.  But  when 
years,  even  two  years,  were  expired,  I said  to  my  mother, 

‘ I will  go  and  seek  my  father  ’ ; and  she  said,  ‘ Do  so/ 
and  she  gave  me  her  blessing,  and  I kissed  my  little  sister, 
and  I went  forth  as  far  as  Egypt,  and  there  I heard  tidings 
of  my  father,  for  people  told  me  he  had  been  there,  and  they 
named  the  time,  and  they  said  that  he  had  passed  from 
thence  to  the  land  of  the  Turk;  so  I myself  followed  to  the 
land  of  the  Turk,  even  unto  Constantinople.  And  when  I 
arrived  there  I again  heard  of  my  father,  for  he  was  well 
known  amongst  the  Jews,  and  they  told  me  the  time  of  his 
being  there,  and  they  added  that  he  had  speculated  and 
prospered,  and  departed  from  Constantinople,  but  whither 
he  went  they  knew  not.  So  I reasoned  within  myself  and 
said,  perhaps  he  may  have  gone  to  the  land  of  his  fathers, 
even  unto  Galatia,  to  visit  his  kindred;  so  I determined  to 
go  there  myself,  and  I went,  and  I found  our  kindred,  and 
I made  myself  known  to  them,  and  they  rejoiced  to  see  me; 
but  when  I asked  them  for  my  father,  they  shook  their 
heads  and  could  give  me  no  intelligence;  and  they  would 
fain  have  had  me  tarry  with  them,  but  I would  not,  for  the 
thought  of  my  father  was  working  strong  within  me,  and  I 
could  not  rest.  So  I departed  and  went  to  another  country, 
even  unto  Russia,  and  I went  deep  into  that  country,  even 
as  far  as  Kazan,  and  of  all  I met,  whether  Jew,  or  Russ,  or 
Tartar,  I inquired  for  my  father;  but  no  one  knew  him, 
nor  had  heard  of  him.  So  I turned  back  and  here  thou  seest 
me;  and  I now  purpose  going  through  all  Germany  and 
France,  nay,  through  all  the  world,  until  I have  received 
intelligence  of  my  father,  for  I cannot  rest  until  I know 
what  is  become  of  my  father,  for  the  thought  of  him  burneth 
in  my  brain  like  fire,  even  like  the  fire  of  Jehinnim.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


461 


Such  was  the  individual  whom  I now  saw  again,  after 
a lapse  of  five  years,  in  the  streets  of  Gibraltar,  in  the  dusk 
of  the  evening.  “ Yes,”  he  replied,  “ I am  Judah,  surnamed 
the  Lib.  Thou  didst  not  recognise  me,  but  I knew  thee  at 
once.  I should  have  known  thee  amongst  a million,  and 
not  a day  has  passed  since  I last  saw  thee,  but  I have  thought 
on  thee.”  I was  about  to  reply,  but  he  pulled  me  out  of  the 
crowd  and  led  me  into  a shop  where,  squatted  on  the  floor, 
sat  six  or  seven  Jews  cutting  leather;  he  said  something  to 
them  which  I did  not  understand,  whereupon  they  bowed 
their  heads  and  followed  their  occupation,  without  taking 
any  notice  of  us.  A singular  figure  had  followed  us  to  the 
door;  it  was  a man  dressed  in  exceedingly  shabby  European 
garments,  which  exhibited  nevertheless  the  cut  of  a fashion- 
able tailor.  He  seemed  about  fifty;  his  face,  which  was 
very  broad,  was  of  a deep  bronze  colour;  the  features  were 
rugged,  but  exceedingly  manly,  and,  notwithstanding  they 
were  those  of  a Jew,  exhibited  no  marks  of  cunning,  but,  on 
the  contrary,  much  simplicity  and  good  nature.  His  form 
was  about  the  middle  height,  and  tremendously  athletic, 
the  arms  and  back  were  literally  those  of  a Hercules  squeezed 
into  a modern  surtout ; the  lower  part  of  his  face  was  covered 
with  a bushy  beard,  which  depended  half  way  down  his 
breast.  This  figure  remained  at  the  door,  his  eyes  fixed 
upon  myself  and  Judah. 

The  first  inquiry  which  I now  addressed  was  “ Have  you 
heard  of  your  father?  ” 

“ I have,”  he  replied.  “ When  we  parted,  I proceeded 
through  many  lands,  and  wherever  I went  I inquired  of  the 
people  respecting  my  father,  but  still  they  shook  their  heads, 
until  I arrived  at  the  land  of  Tunis ; and  there  I went  to  the 
head  rabbi,  and  he  told  me  that  he  knew  my  father  well, 
and  that  he  had  been  there,  even  at  Tunis,  and  he  named 
the  time,  and  he  said  that  from  thence  he  departed  for  the 
land  of  Fez;  and  he  spoke  much  of  my  father  and  of  his 
learning,  and  he  mentioned  the  Zohar,  even  that  dark  book 
which  my  father  loved  so  well;  and  he  spoke  yet  more  of  my 
father’s  wealth  and  his  speculations,  in  all  of  which  it  seems 
he  had  thriven.  So  I departed  and  I mounted  a ship,  and  I 
went  into  the  land  of  Barbary,  even  unto  Fez,  and  when 
I arrived  there  I heard  much  intelligence  of  my  father, 
but  it  was  intelligence  which  perhaps  was  worse  than  ignor- 
ance. For  the  Jews  told  me  that  my  father  had  been 
there,  and  had  speculated  and  had  thriven,  and  that  from 
thence  he  departed  for  Tafilaltz,  which  is  the  country  of 
which  the  Emperor,  even  Muley  Abderrahman,  is  a native; 
and  there  he  was  still  prosperous,  and  his  wealth  in  gold  and 
silver  was  very  great;  and  he  wished  to  go  to  a not  far 


462 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


distant  town,  and  he  engaged  certain  Moors,  two  in  number, 
to  accompany  him  and  defend  him  and  his  treasures:  and 
the  Moors  were  strong  men,  even  makhasniah  or  soldiers; 
and  they  made  a covenant  with  my  father,  and  they  gave  him 
their  right  hands,  and  they  swore  to  spill  their  blood  rather 
than  his  should  be  shed.  And  my  father  was  encouraged 
and  he  waxed  bold,  and  he  departed  with  them,  even  with 
the  two  false  Moors.  And  when  they  arrived  in  the  un- 
inhabited place,  they  smote  my  father,  and  they  prevailed 
against  him,  and  they  poured  out  his  blood  in  the  way,  and 
they  robbed  him  of  all  he  had,  of  his  silks  and  his  merchandize, 
and  of  the  gold  and  silver  which  he  had  made  in  his  specula- 
tions, and  they  went  to  their  own  villages,  and  there  they  sat 
themselves  down  and  bought  lands  and  houses,  and  they 
rejoiced  and  they  triumphed,  and  they  made  a merit  of  their 
deed,  saying,  4 We  have  killed  an  infidel,  even  an  accursed 
Jew  ' ; and  these  things  were  notorious  in  Fez.  And  when 
I heard  these  tidings  my  heart  was  sad,  and  I became  like  a 
child,  and  I wept;  but  the  fire  of  Jehinnim  burned  no 
longer  in  my  brain,  for  I now  knew  what  was  become  of  my 
father.  At  last  I took  comfort  and  I reasoned  with  myself, 
saying,  4 Would  it  not  be  wise  to  go  unto  the  Moorish  king 
and  demand  of  him  vengeance  for  my  father's  death,  and 
that  the  spoilers  be  despoiled,  and  the  treasure,  even  my 
father's  treasure,  be  wrested  from  their  hands  and  delivered 
up  to  me  who  am  his  son?  ' And  the  king  of  the  Moors  was 
not  at  that  time  in  Fez,  but  was  absent  in  his  wars;  and  I 
arose  and  followed  him,  even  unto  Arbat,  which  is  a seaport, 
and  when  I arrived  there,  lo  I I found  him  not,  but  his  son 
was  there,  and  men  said  unto  me  that  to  speak  unto  the  sun 
was  to  speak  unto  the  king,  even  Muley  Abderrahman; 
so  I went  in  unto  the  king's  son,  and  I kneeled  before  him, 
and  I lifted  up  my  voice  and  I said  unto  him  what  I had  to 
say,  and  he  looked  courteously  upon  me  and  said,  4 Truly 
thy  tale  is  a sorrowful  one,  and  it  maketh  me  sad;  and  what 
thou  asketh,  that  will  I grant,  and  thy  father's  death  shall  be 
avenged  and  the  spoilers  shall  be  despoiled;  and  I will  write 
thee  a letter  with  my  own  hand  unto  the  Pasha,  even  the 
Pasha  of  Tafilaltz,  and  I will  enjoin  him  to  make  inquiry 
into  thy  matter,  and  that  letter  thou  shalt  thyself  carry  and 
deliver  unto  him.'  And  when  I heard  these  words,  my 
heart  died  within  my  bosom  for  very  fear,  and  I replied, 
4 Not  so,  my  lord;  it  is  good  that  thou  write  a letter  unto 
the  Pasha,  even  unto  the  Pasha  of  Tafilaltz,  but  that  letter 
will  I not  take,  neither  will  I go  to  Tafilaltz,  for  no  sooner 
should  I arrive  there,  and  my  errand  be  known,  than  the 
Moors  would  arise  and  put  me  to  death,  either  privily 
or  publicly,  for  axe  not  the  murderers  of  my  father 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


463 


Moors;  and  am  I aught  but  a Jew,  though  I be  a Polish 
man?  ' And  he  looked  benignantly,  and  he  said,  ‘ Truly, 
thou  speakest  wisely;  I will  write  the  letter,  but  thou  shalt 
not  take  it,  for  I will  send  it  by  other  hands;  therefore  set 
thy  heart  at  rest,  and  doubt  not  that,  if  thy  tale  be  true,  thy 
father's  death  shall  be  avenged,  and  the  treasure,  or  the  value 
thereof,  be  recovered  and  given  up  to  thee;  tell  me,  there- 
fore, where  wilt  thou  abide  till  then?  ’ And  I said  unto 
him,  ‘ My  lord,  I will  go  into  the  land  of  Suz  and  will  tarry 
there.'  And  he  replied:  ‘ Do  so,  and  thou  shalt  hear 

speedily  from  me.'  So  I arose  and  departed  and  went  into 
the  land  of  Suz,  even  unto  Sweerah,  which  the  Nazarenes 
call  Mogadore;  and  waited  with  a troubled  heart  for  intelli- 
gence from  the  son  of  the  Moorish  king,  but  no  intelligence 
came,  and  never  since  that  day  have  I heard  from  him,  and  it 
is  now  three  years  since  I was  in  his  presence.  And  I sat 
me  down  at  Mogadore,  and  I married  a wife,  a daughter  of 
our  nation,  and  I wrote  to  my  mother,  even  to  Jerusalem, 
and  she  sent  me  money,  and  with  that  I entered  into  com- 
merce, even  as  my  father  had  done,  and  I speculated,  and  I 
was  not  successful  in  my  speculations,  and  I speedily  lost  all 
I had.  And  now  I am  come  to  Gibraltar  to  speculate  on  the 
account  of  another,  a merchant  of  Mogadore,  but  I like  not 
my  occupation,  he  has  deceived  me;  I am  going  back,  when 
I shall  again  seek  the  presence  of  the  Moorish  king  and 
demand  that  the  treasure  of  my  father  be  taken  from  the 
spoilers  and  delivered  up  to  me,  even  to  me  his  son." 

I listened  with  mute  attention  to  the  singular  tale  of 
this  singular  man,  and  when  he  had  concluded  I remained 
a considerable  time  without  saying  a word;  at  last  he  in- 
quired what  had  brought  me  to  Gibraltar.  I told  him 
that  I was  merely  a passer  through  on  my  way  to  Tangier, 
for  which  place  I expected  to  sail  the  following  morning. 
Whereupon  he  observed,  that  in  the  course  of  a week  or  two 
he  expected  to  be  there  also,  when  he  hoped  that  we  should 
meet,  as  he  had  much  more  to  tell  me.  “ And  peradventure," 
he  added,  “ you  can  afford  me  counsel  which  will  be  profit- 
able, for  you  are  a person  of  experience,  versed  in  the  ways 
of  many  nations;  and  when  I look  in  your  countenance, 
heaven  seems  to  open  to  me,  for  I think  I see  the  countenance 
of  a friend,  even  of  a brother."  He  then  bade  me  farewell, 
and  departed;  the  strange  bearded  man,  who  during  our 
conversation  had  remained  patiently  waiting  at  the  door, 
following  him.  I remarked  that  there  was  less  wildness 
in  his  look  than  on  the  former  occasion,  but  at  the  same  time 
more  melancholy,  and  his  features  were  wrinkled  like  those 
of  an  aged  man,  though  he  had  not  yet  passed  the  prime 
of  youth. 


464 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


CHAPTER  LIII 

Genoese  Mariners — St.  Michael’s  Cave — Midnight  Abysses — Young 
American — A Slave  Proprietor — The  Fairy  Man — Infidelity. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  that  night  it  blew  very  hard, 
but  as  the  wind  was  in  the  Levant  quarter,  I had  no  apprehen- 
sion of  being  detained  longer  at  Gibraltar  on  that  account.  I 
went  on  board  the  vessel  at  an  early  hour,  when  I found  the 
crew  engaged  in  hauling  the  anchor  close,  and  making  other 
preparations  for  sailing.  They  informed  me  that  we  should 
probably  start  in  an  hour.  That  time  however  passed,  and 
we  still  remained  where  we  were,  and  the  captain  continued 
on  shore.  YYe  formed  one  of  a small  flotilla  of  Genoese 
barks,  the  crews  of  which  seemed  in  their  leisure  moments 
to  have  no  better  means  of  amusing  themselves  than  the 
exchange  of  abusive  language;  a furious  fusillade  of  this 
kind  presently  commenced,  in  which  the  mate  of  our  vessel 
particularly  distinguished  himself;  he  was  a grey-haired 
Genoese  of  sixty.  Though  not  able  to  speak  their  patois, 
I understood  much  of  what  was  said;  it  was  truly  shocking, 
and  as  they  shouted  it  forth,  judging  from  their  violent 
gestures  and  distorted  features,  you  would  have  concluded 
them  to  be  bitter  enemies;  they  were,  however,  nothing  of 
the  kind,  but  excellent  friends  all  the  time,  and  indeed  very 
good-humoured  fellows  at  bottom.  Oh,  the  infirmities  of 
human  nature!  When  will  man  learn  to  become  truly 
Christian? 

I am  upon  the  whole  very  fond  of  the  Genoese;  they 
have,  it  is  true,  much  ribaldry  and  many  vices,  but  they  are  a 
brave  and  chivalrous  people,  and  have  ever  been  so,  and 
from  them  I have  never  experienced  aught  but  kindness  and 
hospitality. 

After  the  lapse  of  another  two  hours,  the  Jew  secretary 
arrived  and  said  something  to  the  old  mate,  who  grumbled 
much;  then  coming  up  to  me,  he  took  off  his  hat  and  in- 
formed me  that  we  were  not  to  start  that  day,  saying  at  the 
same  time  that  it  was  a shame  to  lose  such  a noble  wind, 
which  would  carry  us  to  Tangier  in  three  hours.  “ Patience/1 
said  I,  and  went  on  shore. 

I now  strolled  towards  Saint  Michael's  cave,  in  company 
with  the  Jewish  lad  whom  I have  before  mentioned. 

The  way  thither  does  not  lie  in  the  same  direction  as  that 
which  leads  to  the  excavations;  these  confront  Spain,  whilst 
the  cave  yawns  in  the  face  of  Africa.  It  lies  nearly  at  the 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


465 


top  of  the  mountain,  several  hundred  yards  above  the  sea. 
We  passed  by  the  public  walks,  where  there  are  noble  trees, 
and  also  by  many  small  houses,  situated  delightfully  in 
gardens,  and  occupied  by  the  officers  of  the  garrison.  It  is 
wrong  to  suppose  Gibraltar  a mere  naked  barren  rock;  it 
is  not  without  its  beautiful  spots — spots  such  as  these, 
looking  cool  and  refreshing,  with  bright  green  foliage. 
The  path  soon  became  very  steep,  and  we  left  behind  us  the 
dwellings  of  man.  The  gale  of  the  preceding  night  had 
entirely  ceased,  and  not  a breath  of  air  was  stirring;  the 
midday  sun  shone  in  all  its  fierce  glory,  and  the  crags  up 
which  we  clambered  were  not  unfrequently  watered  with  the 
perspiration  drops  which  rained  from  our  temples:  at  length 
we  arrived  at  the  cavern. 

The  mouth  is  a yawning  cleft  in  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
about  twelve  feet  high  and  as  many  wide;  within  there  is  a 
very  rapid  precipitous  descent  for  some  fifty  yards,  where 
the  cavern  terminates  in  an  abyss  which  leads  to  un- 
known depths.  The  most  remarkable  object  is  a natural 
column,  which  rises  up  something  like  the  trunk  of 
an  enormous  oak,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  supporting  the 
roof;  it  stands  at  a short  distance  from  the  entrance, 
and  gives  a certain  air  of  wildness  and  singularity  ro  that 
part  of  the  cavern  which  is  visible,  which  it  would  otherwise 
not  possess.  The  floor  is  exceedingly  slippery,  consisting 
of  soil  which  the  continual  drippings  from  the  roof  have 
saturated,  so  that  no  slight  precaution  is  necessary  for  him 
who  treads  it.  It  is  very  dangerous  to  enter  this  place 
without  a guide  well  acquainted  with  it,  as,  besides  the  black 
pit  at  the  extremity,  holes  which  have  never  been  fathomed 
present  themselves  here  and  there,  falling  into  which  the 
adventurer  would  be  dashed  to  pieces.  Whatever  men  may 
please  to  say  of  this  cave,  one  thing  it  seems  to  tell  to  all  who 
approach  it,  namely,  that  the  hand  of  man  has  never  been 
busy  about  it;  there  is  many  a cave  of  nature's  forming, 
old  as  the  earth  on  which  we  exist,  which  nevertheless  ex- 
hibits indications  that  man  has  turned  it  to  some  account, 
and  that  it  has  been  subjected  more  or  less  to  his  modifying 
power;  not  so  this  cave  of  Gibraltar,  for,  judging  from  its 
appearance,  there  is  not  the  slightest  reason  for  supposing 
that  it  ever  served  for  aught  else  than  a den  for  foul  night 
birds,  reptiles,  and  beasts  of  prey.  It  has  been  stated  by 
some  to  have  been  used  in  the  days  of  paganism  as  a temple 
to  the  god  Hercules,  who,  according  to  the  ancient  tradition, 
raised  the  singular  mass  of  crags  now  called  Gibraltar,  and 
the  mountain  which  confronts  it  on  the  African  shores,  as 
columns  which  should  say  to  all  succeeding  times  that  he  had 
been  there,  and  had  advanced  no  farther.  Sufficient  to 


466 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


observe,  that  there  is  nothing  within  the  cave  which  would 
authorize  the  adoption  of  such  an  opinion,  not  even  a plat- 
form  on  which  an  altar  could  have  stood,  whilst  a narrow 
path  passes  before  it,  leading  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain. 
As  I have  myself  never  penetrated  into  its  depths,  I can  of 
course  not  pretend  to  describe  them.  Numerous  have  been 
the  individuals  who,  instigated  by  curiosity,  have  ventured 
down  to  immense  depths,  hoping  to  discover  an  end,  and 
indeed  scarcely  a week  passes  without  similar  attempts  being 
made  either  by  the  officers  or  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  all  of 
which  have  proved  perfectly  abortive.  No  termination 
has  ever  been  reached,  nor  any  discoveries  made  to  repay 
the  labour  and  frightful  danger  incurred;  precipice  succeeds 
precipice,  and  abyss  succeeds  abyss,  in  apparently  endless 
succession,  with  ledges  at  intervals,  which  afford  the 
adventurers  opportunities  for  resting  themselves  and 
affixing  their  rope-ladders  for  the  purpose  of  descending  yet 
farther.  What  is,  however,  most  mortifying  and  perplexing 
is  to  observe  that  these  abysses  are  not  only  before,  but 
behind  you,  and  on  every  side;  indeed,  close  within  the 
entrance  of  the  cave,  on  the  right,  there  is  a gulf  almost 
equally  dark  and  full  as  threatening  as  that  which  exists 
at  the  nether  end,  and  perhaps  contains  within  itself  as  many 
gulfs  and  horrid  caverns  branching  off  in  all  directions. 
Indeed,  from  what  I have  heard,  I have  come  to  the  opinion, 
that  the  whole  hill  of  Gibraltar  is  honeycombed,  and  I have 
little  doubt  that,  were  it  cleft  asunder,  its  interior  would  be 
found  full  of  such  abysses  of  Erebus  as  those  to  which  Saint 
Michael's  cave  conducts.  Many  valuable  lives  are  lost  every 
year  in  these  horrible  places;  and  only  a few  weeks  before 
my  visit,  two  sergeants,  brothers,  had  perished  in  the  gulf  on 
the  right  hand  side  of  the  cave,  having,  when  at  a great 
depth,  slipped  down  a precipice.  The  body  of  one  of  these 
adventurous  men  is  even  now  rotting  in  the  bowels  of  the 
mountain,  preyed  upon  by  its  blind  and  noisome  worms; 
that  of  his  brother  was  extricated.  Immediately  after 
this  horrible  accident,  a gate  was  placed  before  the  mouth 
of  the  cave,  to  prevent  individuals,  and  especially  the 
reckless  soldiers,  from  indulging  in  their  extravagant 
curiosity.  The  lock,  however,  was  speedily  forced,  and 
at  the  period  of  my  arrival  the  gate  swung  idly  upon 
its  hinges. 

As  I left  the  place,  I thought  that  perhaps  similar  to  this 
was  the  cave  of  Horeb,  where  dwelt  Elijah,  when  he  heard 
the  still  small  voice,  after  the  great  and  strong  wind  which 
rent  the  mountains  and  brake  in  pieces  the  rocks  before  the 
Lord;  the  cave  to  the  entrance  of  which  he  went  out  and 
stood  with  his  face  wrapped  in  his  mantle,  when  he  heard 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


467 


the  voice  say  unto  him,  “ What  doest  thou  here,  Elijah?  " 
(1  Kings  xix.  11-13.) 

And  what  am  I doing  here,  I inquired  of  myself  as, 
vexed  at  my  detention,  I descended  into  the  town. 

That  afternoon  I dined  in  the  company  of  a young 
American,  a native  of  South  Carolina.  I had  frequently 
seen  him  before,  as  he  had  been  staying  for  some  time  at  the 
inn  previous  to  my  arrival  at  Gibraltar.  His  appearance 
was  remarkable:  he  was  low  of  stature,  and  exceedingly 
slightly  made;  his  features  were  pale  but  very  well  formed; 
he  had  a magnificent  head  of  crispy  black  hair,  and  as 
superb  a pair  of  whiskers  of  the  same  colour  as  I ever  beheld. 
He  wore  a white  hat,  with  broad  brim  and  particularly 
shallow  crown,  and  was  dressed  in  a light  yellow  gingham 
frock  striped  with  black,  and  ample  trousers  of  calico: 
in  a word,  his  appearance  was  altogether  queer  and  singular. 
On  my  return  from  my  ramble  to  the  cave,  I found  that  he 
had  himself  just  descended  from  the  mountain,  having  since 
a very  early  hour  been  absent  exploring  its  wonders. 

A man  of  the  rock  asked  him  how  he  liked  the  excavations. 
“ Liked  them,,,  said  he;  “you  might  just  as  well  ask  a 
person  who  has  just  seen  the  Niagara  Falls  how  he  liked  them 
— like  is  not  the  word,  mister/'  The  heat  was  suffocating, 
as  it  almost  invariably  is  in  the  town  of  Gibraltar,  where 
rarely  a breath  of  air  is  to  be  felt,  as  it  is  sheltered  from  all 
winds.  This  led  another  individual  to  inquire  of  him 
whether  he  did  not  think  it  exceedingly  hot?  “ Hot,  sir," 
he  replied,  “ not  at  all:  fine  cotton  gathering  weather  as  a 
man  could  wish  for.  We  couldn't  beat  it  in  South  Carolina, 
sir."  “ You  live  in  South  Carolina,  sir — I hope,  sir,  you  are 
not  a slave  proprietor,"  said  the  short  fat  Jewish  personage 
in  the  snuff-coloured  coat,  who  had  offered  me  the  bitters 
on  a previous  occasion;  “ it  is  a terrible  thing  to  make 
slaves  of  poor  people,  simply  because  they  happen  to  be 
black;  don't  you  think  so,  sir?  " “ Think  so,  sir — no,  sir, 

I don't  think  so — I glory  in  being  a slave  proprietor;  have 
four  hundred  black  niggers  on  my  estate — own  estate,  sir, 
near  Charleston — flog  half  a dozen  of  them  before  breakfast, 
merely  for  exercise.  Niggers  only  made  to  be  flogged,  sir: 
try  to  escape  sometimes;  set  the  blood-hounds  in  their 
trail,  catch  them  in  a twinkling;  used  to  hang  themselves 
formerly:  the  niggers  thought  that  a sure  way  to  return  to 
their  own  country  and  get  clear  of  me:  soon  put  a stop  to 
that:  told  them  that  if  any  more  hanged  themselves  I'd 
hang  myself  too,  follow  close  behind  them,  and  flog  them  in 
their  own  country  ten  times  worse  than  in  mine.  What  do 
you  think  of  that,  friend?  " It  was  easy  to  perceive  that 
there  was  more  of  fun  than  malice  in  this  eccentric  little 


468 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


fellow,  for  his  large  grey  eyes  were  sparkling  with  good 
humour  whilst  he  poured  out  these  wild  things.  He  was 
exceedingly  free  of  his  money;  and  a dirty  Irish  woman, 
a soldier's  wife,  having  entered  with  a basketful  of  small 
boxes  and  trinkets,  made  of  portions  of  the  rock  of  Gibraltar, 
he  purchased  the  greatest  part  of  her  ware,  giving  her  for 
every  article  the  price  (by  no  means  inconsiderable)  which 
she  demanded.  He  had  glanced  at  me  several  times,  and  at 
last  I saw  huii  stoop  down  and  whisper  something  to  the  Jew, 
who  replied  in  an  undertone,  though  with  considerable 
earnestness,  “ O dear  no,  sir;  perfectly  mistaken,  sir:  is 
no  American,  sir: — from  Salamanca,  sir;  the  gentleman  is  a 
Salamancan  Spaniard.”  The  waiter  at  length  informed  us 
that  he  had  laid  the  table,  and  that  perhaps  it  would  be 
agreeable  to  us  to  dine  together:  we  instantly  assented. 
I found  my  new  acquaintance  in  many  respects  a most 
agreeable  companion:  he  soon  told  me  his  history.  He  was 
a planter,  and,  from  what  he  hinted,  just  come  to  his 
property.  He  was  part  owner  of  a large  vessel  which  traded 
between  Charleston  and  Gibraltar,  and  the  yellow  fever 
having  just  broken  out  at  the  former  place,  he  had  deter- 
mined to  take  a trip  (his  first)  to  Europe  in  this  ship; 
having,  as  he  said,  already  visited  every  state  in  the  Union, 
and  seen  all  that  was  to  be  seen  there.  He  described  to  me, 
in  a very  naive  and  original  manner,  his  sensations  on 
passing  by  Tarifa,  which  was  the  first  walled  town  he  had 
ever  seen.  I related  to  him  the  history  of  that  place,  to 
which  he  listened  with  great  attention.  He  made  divers 
attempts  to  learn  from  me  who  I was ; all  of  which  I evaded, 
though  he  seemed  fully  convinced  that  I was  an  American; 
and  amongst  other  things  asked  me  whether  my  father  had 
not  been  American  consul  at  Seville.  What,  however, 
most  perplexed  him  was  my  understanding  Moorish  and 
Gaelic,  which  he  had  heard  me  speak  respectively  to  the 
hamalos  and  the  Irish  woman,  the  latter  of  whom,  as  he  said, 
had  told  him  that  I was  a fairy  man.  At  last  he  introduced 
the  subject  of  religion,  and  spoke  with  much  contempt  of 
revelation,  avowing  himself  a deist;  he  was  evidently  very 
anxious  to  hear  my  opinion,  but  here  again  I evaded  him, 
and  contented  myself  with  asking  him,  whether  he  had  ever 
read  the  Bible.  He  said  he  had  not;  but  that  he  was  well 
acquainted  with  the  writings  of  Volney  and  Mirabeau. 
I made  no  answer;  whereupon  he  added,  that  it  was  by  no 
means  his  habit  to  introduce  such  subjects,  and  that  there 
were  very  few  persons  to  whom  he  would  speak  so  unre- 
servedly, but  that  I had  very  much  interested  him,  though 
our  acquaintance  had  been  short.  I replied,  that  he  would 
scarcely  have  spoken  at  Boston  in  the  manner  that  I had  just 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


469 


heard  him,  and  that  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that  he  was  not 
a New  Englander.  “ I assure  you,”  said  he,  “ I should  as 
little  have  thought  of  speaking  so  at  Charleston,  for  if  I 
held  such  conversation  there,  I should  soon  have  had  to 
speak  to  myself.” 

Had  I known  less  of  deists  than  it  has  been  my  fortune  to 
know,  I should  perhaps  have  endeavoured  to  convince  this 
young  man  of  the  erroneousness  of  the  ideas  which  he  had 
adopted;  but  I was  aware  of  all  that  he  would  have  urged 
in  reply,  and  as  the  believer  has  no  carnal  arguments  to 
address  to  carnal  reason  upon  this  subject,  I thought 
it  best  to  avoid  disputation,  which  I felt  sure  would  lead  to 
no  profitable  result.  Faith  is  the  free  gift  of  God,  and  I do 
not  believe  that  ever  yet  was  an  infidel  converted  by  means 
of  after-dinner  polemics.  This  was  the  last  evening  of  my 
sojourn  in  Gibraltar. 


CHAPTER  LIY 

Again  on  Board — The  Strange  Visage — The  Hadji — Setting  Sail — The 
Two  Jews — American  Vessel — Tangier — Adnn  Oulem- — The  Struggle 
— The  Forbidden  Thing. 

On  Thursday,  the  8th  of  August,  I was  again  on  board  the 
Genoese  bark,  at  as  early  an  hour  as  on  the  previous  morning. 
After  waiting,  however,  two  or  three  hours  without  any 
preparation  being  made  for  departing,  I was  about  to  return 
to  the  shore  once  more,  but  the  old  Genoese  mate  advised 
me  to  stay,  assuring  me  that  he  had  no  doubt  of  our  sailing 
speedily,  as  all  the  cargo  was  on  board,  and  we  had  nothing 
further  to  detain  us.  I was  reposing  myself  in  the  little 
cabin,  when  I heard  a boat  strike  against  the  side  of  the 
vessel,  and  some  people  come  on  board.  Presently  a face 
peered  in  at  the  opening,  strange  and  wild.  I was  half 
asleep,  and  at  first  imagined  I was  dreaming,  for  the  face 
seemed  more  like  that  of  a goat  or  an  ogre  than  of  a human 
being;  its  long  beard  almost  touching  my  face  as  I lay 
extended  in  a kind  of  berth.  Starting  up,  however,  I 
recognised  the  singular-looking  Jew  whom  I had  seen  in  the 
company  of  Judah  Lib.  He  recognised  me  also,  and 
nodding,  bent  his  huge  features  into  a smile.  I arose  and 
went  upon  deck,  where  I found  him  in  company  with  another 
Jew,  a young  man  in  the  dress  of  Barbary.  They  had  just 
arrived  in  the  boat.  I asked  my  friend  of  the  beard  who 
he  was,  from  whence  he  came,  and  where  he  was  going? 
He  answered,  in  broken  Portuguese,  that  he  was  returning 


470 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


from  Lisbon,  where  lie  had  been  on  business,  to  Mogadore, 
of  which  place  he  was  a native.  He  then  looked  me  in  the 
face  and  smiled,  and  taking  out  a book  from  his  pocket, 
in  Hebrew  characters,  fell  to  reading  it;  whereupon  a 
Spanish  sailor  on  board  observed  that  with  such  a beard  and 
book  he  must  needs  be  a sabio,  or  sage.  His  companion 
was  from  Mequinez,  and  spoke  only  Arabic. 

A large  boat  now  drew  nigh,  the  stern  of  which  was 
filled  with  Moors;  there  might  be  about  twelve,  and  the 
greater  part  evidently  consisted  of  persons  of  distinction, 
as  they  were  dressed  in  all  the  pomp  and  gallantry  of  the 
East,  with  snow-white  turbans,  jab  adores  of  green  silk  or 
scarlet  cloth,  and  bedeyas  rich  with  gold  galloon.  Some 
of  them  were  exceedingly  fine  men,  and  two  amongst  them, 
youths,  were  strikingly  handsome,  and  so  far  from  exhibiting 
the  dark  swarthy  countenance  of  Moors  in  general,  their 
complexions  were  of  a delicate  red  and  white.  The  principal 
personage,  and  to  whom  all  the  rest  paid  much  deference, 
was  a tall  athletic  man  of  about  forty.  He  wore  a vest  of 
white  quilted  cotton,  and  white  kandrisa,  whilst  gracefully 
wound  round  his  body,  and  swathing  the  upper  part  of  his 
head,  was  the  haik,  or  white  flannel  wrapping  plaid  always 
held  in  so  much  estimation  by  the  Moors  from  the  earliest 
period  of  their  history.  His  legs  were  bare  and  his  feet  only 
protected  from  the  ground  by  yellow  slippers.  He  displayed 
no  farther  ornament  than  one  large  gold  ear-ring,  from  which 
depended  a pearl,  evidently  of  great  price.  A noble  black 
beard,  about  a foot  in  length,  touched  his  muscular  breast. 
His  features  were  good,  with  the  exception  of  the  eyes, 
which  were  somewhat  small;  their  expression,  however, 
was  evil;  their  glances  were  sullen;  and  malignity  and 
ill-nature  were  painted  in  every  lineament  of  his  countenance, 
which  seemed  never  to  have  been  brightened  with  a smile. 
The  Spanish  sailor,  of  whom  I have  already  had  occasion  to 
speak,  informed  me  in  a whisper,  that  he  was  a santuron, 
or  big  saint,  and  was  so  far  back  on  his  way  from  Mecca; 
adding,  that  he  was  a merchant  of  immense  wealth.  It 
soon  appeared  that  the  other  Moors  had  merely  attended 
him  on  board  through  friendly  politeness,  as  they  all 
successively  came  to  bid  him  adieu,  with  the  exception  of 
two  blacks,  who  were  his  attendants.  I observed  that 
these  blacks,  when  the  Moors  presented  them  their  hands  at 
departing,  invariably  made  an  effort  to  press  them  to  their 
lips,  which  effort  was  as  uniformly  foiled,  the  Moors  in  every 
instance,  by  a speedy  and  graceful  movement,  drawing  back 
their  hand  locked  in  that  of  the  black,  which  they  pressed 
against  their  own  heart;  as  much  as  to  say,  “ though  a 
negro  and  a slave  you  are  a Moslem,  and  being  so,  you  are 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


471 


our  brother — Allah  knows  no  distinctions.”  The  boatman 
now  went  up  to  the  hadji,  demanding  payment,  stating,  at 
the  same  time,  that  he  had  been  on  board  three  times  on  his 
account,  conveying  his  luggage.  The  sum  which  he  de- 
manded appeared  exorbitant  to  the  hadji,  who,  forgetting 
that  he  was  a saint,  and  fresh  from  Mecca,  fumed  outrage- 
ously, and  in  broken  Spanish  called  the  boatman  thief. 
If  there  be  any  term  of  reproach  which  stings  a Spaniard 
(and  such  was  the  boatman)  more  than  another,  it  is  that 
one;  and  the  fellow  no  sooner  heard  it  applied  to  himself, 
than  with  eyes  sparkling  with  fury,  he  put  his  fist  to  the 
hadji's  nose,  and  repaid  the  one  opprobrious  name  by  at 
least  ten  others  equally  bad  or  worse.  He  would  perhaps 
have  proceeded  to  acts  of  violence  had  he  not  been  pulled 
away  by  the  other  Moors,  who  led  him  aside,  and  I suppose 
either  said  or  gave  him  something  which  pacified  him,  as  he 
soon  got  into  his  boat,  and  returned  with  them  on  shore. 
The  captain  now  arrived  with  his  Jewish  secretary,  and  orders 
were  given  for  setting  sail. 

At  a little  past  twelve  we  were  steering  out  of  the  bay 
of  Gibraltar;  the  wind  was  in  the  right  quarter,  but  for  some 
time  we  did  not  make  much  progress,  lying  almost  becalmed 
beneath  the  lee  of  the  hill;  by  degrees,  however,  our  pro- 
gress became  brisker,  and  in  about  an  hour  we  found  our- 
selves careering  smartly  towards  Tarifa. 

The  Jew  secretary  stood  at  the  helm,  and  indeed  appeared 
to  be  the  person  who  commanded  the  vessel,  and  who 
issued  out  all  the  necessary  orders,  which  were  executed 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  old  Genoese  mate.  I now 
put  some  questions  to  the  hadji,  but  he  looked  at  me  askance 
with  his  sullen  eye,  pouted  with  his  lip,  and  remained  silent; 
as  much  as  to  say,  “ Speak  not  to  me,  I am  holier  than  thou.” 
I found  his  negroes,  however,  far  more  conversable.  One  of 
them  was  old  and  ugly,  the  other  about  twenty,  and  as  well 
looking  as  it  is  possible  for  a negro  to  be.  His  colour  was 
perfect  ebony,  his  features  exceedingly  well  formed  and 
delicate,  with  the  exception  of  the  lips,  which  were  too  full. 
The  shape  of  his  eyes  was  peculiar;  they  were  rather  oblong 
than  round,  like  those  of  an  Egyptian  figure.  Their  ex- 
pression was  thoughtful  and  meditative.  In  every  respect 
he  differed  from  his  companion,  even  in  colour,  (though  both 
were  negroes,)  and  was  evidently  a scion  of  some  little  known 
and  superior  race.  As  he  sat  beneath  the  mast  gazing  at  the 
sea,  I thought  he  was  misplaced,  and  that  he  would  have 
appeared  to  more  advantage  amidst  boundless  sands,  and 
beneath  a date  tree,  and  then  he  might  have  well  repre- 
sented a Jhin.  I asked  •him  from  whence  he  came,  he 
replied  that  he  was  a native  of  Fez,  but  that  he  had  never 


472 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


known  his  parents.  He  had  been  brought  up,  he  added, 
in  the  family  of  his  present  master,  whom  he  had  followed 
in  the  greater  part  of  his  travels,  and  with  whom  he  had 
thrice  visited  Mecca.  I asked  him  if  he  liked  being  a slave? 
Whereupon  he  replied,  that  he  was  a slave  no  longer,  having 
been  made  free  for  some  time  past,  on  account  of  his  faithful 
services,  as  had  likewise  his  companion.  He  would  have 
told  me  much  more,  but  the  hadji  called  him  away,  and 
otherwise  employed  him,  probably  to  prevent  his  being 
contaminated  by  me. 

Thus  avoided  by  the  Moslems,  I betook  myself  to  the 
Jews,  whom  I found  nowise  backward  in  cultivating  an 
intimacy.  The  sage  of  the  beard  told  me  his  history, 
which  in  some  respects  reminded  me  of  that  of  Judah  Lib, 
as  it  seemed  that,  a year  or  two  previous,  he  had  quitted 
Mogadore  in  pursuit  of  his  son,  who  had  betaken  himself 
to  Portugal.  On  the  arrival,  however,  of  the  father  at 
Lisbon,  he  discovered  that  the  fugitive  had,  a few  days 
before,  shipped  himself  for  the  Brazils.  Unlike  Judah  in 
quest  of  his  father,  he  now  became  weary,  and  discontinued 
the  pursuit.  The  younger  Jew  from  Mequinez  was  exceed- 
ingly gay  and  lively  as  soon  as  he  perceived  that  I was 
capable  of  understanding  him,  and  made  me  smile  by  his 
humorous  account  of  Christian  life,  as  he  had  observed  it  at 
Gibraltar,  where  he  had  made  a stay  of  about  a month. 
He  then  spoke  of  Mequinez,  which,  he  said,  was  a Jennut, 
or  Paradise,  compared  with  which  Gibraltar  was  a sty  of 
hogs.  So  great,  so  universal  is  the  love  of  country.  I soon 
saw  that  both  these  people  believed  me  to  be  of  their  own 
nation;  indeed,  the  young  one,  who  was  much  the  most 
familiar,  taxed  me  with  being  so,  and  spoke  of  the  infamy 
of  denying  my  own  blood.  Shortly  before  our  arrival  off 
Tarifa,  universal  hunger  seemed  to  prevail  amongst  us. 
The  hadji  and  his  negroes  produced  their  store,  and  feasted 
on  roast  fowls,  the  Jews  ate  grapes  and  bread,  myself  bread 
and  cheese,  whilst  the  crew  prepared  a mess  of  anchovies. 
Two  of  them  speedily  came,  with  a large  portion,  which  they 
presented  to  me  with  the  kindness  of  brothers:  I made  no 
hesitation  in  accepting  their  present,  and  found  the  an- 
chovies delicious.  As  I sat  between  the  Jews,  I offered  them 
some,  but  they  turned  away  their  heads  with  disgust,  and 
cried  halooj  (hogsflesh).  They  at  the  same  time,  however, 
shook  me  by  the  hand,  and,  uninvited,  took  a small  portion 
of  my  bread.  I had  a bottle  of  Cognac,  which  I had  brought 
with  me  as  a preventive  to  sea  sickness,  and  I presented  it 
to  them;  but  this  they  also  refused,  exclaiming,  Haram 
(it  is  forbidden).  I said  nothing. 

We  were  now  close  to  the  lighthouse  of  Tarifa,  and 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


473 


turning  the  head  of  the  bark  towards  the  west,  we  made 
directly  for  the  coast  of  Africa.  The  wind  was  now  blowing 
very  fresh,  and  as  we  had  it  almost  in  our  poop,  we  sprang 
along  at  a tremendous  rate,  the  huge  lateen  sails  threaten- 
ing every  moment  to  drive  us  beneath  the  billows,  which  an 
adverse  tide  raised  up  against  us.  Whilst  scudding  along 
in  this  manner,  we  passed  close  under  the  stern  of  a large 
vessel  bearing  American  colours;  she  was  tacking  up  the 
straits,  and  slowly  winning  her  way  against  the  impetuous 
Levanter.  As  we  passed  under  her,  I observed  the  poop 
crowded  with  people  gazing  at  us;  indeed,  we  must  have 
offered  a singular  spectacle  to  those  on  board,  who,  like  my 
young  American  friend  at  Gibraltar,  were  visiting  the  Old 
World  for  the  first  time.  At  the  helm  stood  the  Jew; 
his  whole  figure  enveloped  in  a gabardine,  the  cowl  of  which, 
raised  above  his  head,  gave  him  almost  the  appearance  of  a 
spectre  in  its  shroud;  whilst  upon  the  deck,  mixed  with 
Europeans  in  various  kinds  of  dresses,  all  of  them  pictur- 
esque with  the  exception  of  my  own,  trod  the  turbaned 
Moors,  the  haik  of  the  hadji  flapping  loosely  in  the  wind. 
The  view  they  obtained  of  us,  however,  could  have  been  but 
momentary,  as  we  bounded  past  them  literally  with  the 
speed  of  a racehorse,  so  that  in  about  an  hour's  time  we 
were  not  more  than  a mile's  distance  from  the  foreland  on 
which  stands  the  fortress  Alminar,  and  which  constitutes 
the  boundary  point  of  the  bay  of  Tangier  towards  the  east. 
There  the  wind  dropped  and  our  progress  was  again  slow. 

For  a considerable  time  Tangier  had  appeared  in  sight. 
Shortly  after  standing  away  from  Tarifa,  we  had  descried 
it  in  the  far  distance,  when  it  showed  like  a white  dove 
brooding  on  its  nest.  The  sun  was  setting  behind  the  town 
when  we  dropped  anchor  in  its  harbour,  amidst  half  a dozen 
barks  and  felouks  about  the  size  of  our  own,  the  only  vessels 
which  we  saw.  There  stood  Tangier  before  us,  and  a pictur- 
esque town  it  was,  occupying  the  sides  and  top  of  two  hills, 
one  of  which,  bold  and  bluff,  projects  into  the  sea  where  the 
coast  takes  a sudden  and  abrupt  turn.  Frowning  and 
battlemented  were  its  walls,  either  perched  on  the  top  of 
precipitous  rocks,  whose  base  was  washed  by  the  salt 
billows,  or  rising  from  the  narrow  strand  which  separates 
the  hill  from  the  ocean. 

Yonder  are  two  or  three  tiers  of  batteries,  displaying 
heavy  guns  which  command  the  harbour;  above  them  you 
see  the  terraces  of  the  town  rising  in  succession  like  steps 
for  giants.  But  all  is  white,  perfectly  white,  so  that  the 
whole  seems  cut  out  of  an  immense  chalk  rock,  though  true 
it  is  that  you  behold  here  and  there  tall  green  trees  springing 
up  from  amidst  the  whiteness:  perhaps  they  belong  to 


474 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Moorish  gardens,  and  beneath  them  even  now  peradventure 
is  reclining  many  a dark-eyed  Leila,  akin  to  the  houries. 
Right  before  you  is  a high  tower  or  minaret,  not  white  but 
curiously  painted,  which  belongs  to  the  principal  mosque 
of  Tangier;  a black  banner  waves  upon  it,  for  it  is  the  feast 
of  Ashor.  A noble  beach  of  white  sand  fringes  the  bay  from 
the  town  to  the  foreland  of  Alminar.  To  the  east  rise 
prodigious  hills  and  mountains;  they  are  Gibil  Muza  and 
his  chain;  and  yon  tall  fellow  is  the  peak  of  Tetuan;  the 
grey  mists  of  evening  are  enveloping  their  sides.  Such  was 
Tangier,  such  its  vicinity,  as  it  appeared  to  me  whilst  gazing 
from  the  Genoese  bark. 

A boat  was  now  lowered  from  the  vessel,  in  which 
the  captain,  who  was  charged  with  the  mail  from  Gibraltar, 
the  Jew  secretary,  and  the  hadji  and  his  attendant  negroes 
departed  for  the  shore.  I would  have  gone  with  them, 
but  I was  told  that  I could  not  land  that  night,  as  ere  my 
passport  and  bill  of  health  could  be  examined,  the  gates 
would  be  closed;  so  I remained  on  board  with  the  crew 
and  the  two  Jews.  The  former  prepared  their  supper, 
which  consisted  simply  of  pickled  tomatoes,  the  other 
provisions  having  been  consumed.  The  old  Genoese  brought 
me  a portion,  apologizing  at  the  same  time  for  the  plainness 
of  the  fare.  I accepted  it  with  thanks,  and  told  him  that 
a million  better  men  than  myself  had  a worse  supper.  I 
never  ate  with  more  appetite.  As  the  night  advanced,  the 
Jews  sang  Hebrew  hymns,  and  when  they  had  concluded, 
demanded  of  me  why  I was  silent,  so  I lifted  up  my  voice 
and  chanted  Adun  Oulem: — 

“ Reigned  the  Universe’s  Master,  ere  were  earthly  things  begun  ; 
When  His  mandate  all  created,  Ruler  was  the  name  He  won  ; 
And  alone  He’ll  rule  tremendous  when  all  things  are  past  and  gone, 
He  no  equal  has,  nor  consort,  He,  the  singular  and  lone, 

Has  no  end  and  no  beginning  ; His  the  sceptre,  might  and  throne. 
He’s  my  God  and  living  Saviour,  rock  to  whom  in  need  I run  ; 
He’s  my  banner  and  my  refuge,  fount  of  weal  when  called  upon  ; 
In  His  hand  I place  my  spirit  at  nightfall  and  rise  of  sun, 

And  therewith  my  body  also ; God’s  my  God — I fear  no  one.” 

Darkness  had  now  fallen  over  land  and  sea;  not  a 
sound  was  heard  save  occasionally  the  distant  barking 
of  a dog  from  the  shore,  or  some  plaintive  Genoese  ditty, 
which  arose  from  a neighbouring  bark.  The  town  seemed 
buried  in  silence  and  gloom,  no  light,  not  even  that  of  a 
taper,  could  be  descried.  Turning  our  eyes  in  the  direction 
of  Spain,  however,  we  perceived  a magnificent  conflagration 
. seemingly  enveloping  the  side  and  head  of  one  of  the  lofty 
mountains  northward  of  Tarifa;  the  blaze  was  redly  re- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN  475 

fleeted  in  the  waters  of  the  strait;  either  the  brushwood 
was  burning  or  the  Carboneros  were  plying  their  dusky 
toil.  The  Jews  now  complained  of  weariness,  and  the 
younger,  uncording  a small  mattress,  spread  it  on  the  deck 
and  sought  repose.  The  sage  descended  into  the  cabin, 
but  he  had  scarcely  time  to  lie  down  ere  the  old  mate, 
darting  forward,  dived  in  after  him,  and  pulled  him  out  by 
the  heels,  for  it  was  very  shallow,  and  the  descent  was  effected 
by  not  more  than  two  or  three  steps.  After  accomplishing 
this,  he  called  him  many  opprobrious  names,  and  threatened 
him  with  his  foot,  as  he  lay  sprawling  on  the  deck.  " Think 
you,"  said  he,  “ who  are  a dog  and  a Jew,  and  pay  as  a dog 
and  a Jew;  think  you  to  sleep  in  the  cabin?  Undeceive 
yourself,  beast;  that  cabin  shall  be  slept  in  by  none  to-night 
but  this  Christian  Cavallero."  The  sage  made  no  reply, 
but  arose  from  the  deck  and  stroked  his  beard,  whilst 
the  old  Genoese  proceeded  in  his  philippic.  Had  the  Jew 
been  disposed,  he  could  have  strangled  the  insulter  in  a 
moment,  or  crushed  him  to  death  in  his  brawny  arms,  as  I 
never  remember  to  have  seen  a figure  so  powerful  and 
muscular;  but  he  was  evidently  slow  to  anger,  and  long- 
suffering;  not  a resentful  word  escaped  him,  and  his 
features  retained  their  usual  expression  of  benignant 
placidity. 

I now  assured  the  mate  that  I had  not  the  slightest 
objection  to  the  Jew's  sharing  the  cabin  with  me,  but 
rather  wished  it,  as  there  was  room  for  us  both  and  for  more. 
“ Excuse  me,  Sir  Cavalier,"  replied  the  Genoese,  “ but  I 
swear  to  permit  no  such  thing;  you  are  young  and  do  not 
know  this  canaille  as  I do,  who  have  been  backward  and 
forward  to  this  coast  for  twenty  years;  if  the  beast  is  cold, 
let  him  sleep  below  the  hatches  as  I and  the  rest  shall,  but 
that  cabin  he  shall  not  enter."  Observing  that  he  was 
obstinate  I retired,  and  in  a few  minutes  was  in  a sound  sleep 
which  lasted  till  daybreak.  Twice  or  thrice,  indeed,  I 
thought  that  a struggle  was  taking  place  near  me,  but  I was 
so  overpowered  with  weariness,  or  “ sleep  drunken,"  as  the 
Germans  call  it,  that  I was  unable  to  arouse  myself  suffici- 
ently to  discover  what  was  going  on ; the  truth  is,  that  three 
times  during  the  night,  the  sage  feeling  himself  uncomfort- 
able in  the  open  air  by  the  side  of  his  companion,  penetrated 
into  the  cabin,  and  was  as  many  times  dragged  out  by  his 
relentless  old  enemy,  who,  suspecting  his  intentions,  kept 
his  eye  upon  him  throughout  the  night. 

About  five  I arose;  the  sun  was  shining  brightly  and 
gloriously  upon  town,  bay,  and  mountain;  the  crew  were 
already  employed  upon  deck  repairing  a sail  which  had  been 
shivered  in  the  wind  of  the  preceding  day.  The  Jews  sat 


476 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


disconsolate  on  the  poop;  they  complained  much  of  the 
cold  they  had  suffered  in  their  exposed  situation.  Over 
the  left  eye  of  the  sage  I observed  a bloody  cut,  which  he 
informed  me  he  had  received  from  the  old  Genoese  after  he 
had  dragged  him  out  of  the  cabin  for  the  last  time.  I now 
produced  my  bottle  of  Cognac,  begging  that  the  crew  would 
partake  of  it  as  a slight  return  for  their  hospitality.  They 
thanked  me,  and  the  bottle  went  its  round;  it  was  last  in 
the  hands  of  the  old  mate,  who,  after  looking  for  a moment 
at  the  sage,  raised  it  to  his  mouth,  where  he  kept  it  a con- 
siderable time  longer  than  any  of  his  companions,  after  which 
he  returned  it  to  me  with  a low  bow.  The  sage  now  inquired 
what  the  bottle  contained:  I told  him  Cognac  or  aguardiente, 
whereupon  with  some  eagerness  he  begged  that  I would 
allow  him  to  take  a draught.  “ How  is  this?  ” said  I; 
“ yesterday  you  told  me  that  it  was  a forbidden  thing,  an 
abomination.”  “ Yesterday,”  said  he,  “ I was  not  aware 
that  it  was  brandy;  I thought  it  wine,  which  assuredly  is  an 
abomination,  and  a forbidden  thing.”  “ Is  it  forbidden  in 
the  Torah?  ” I inquired.  “ Is  it  forbidden  in  the  law  of 
God?  ” “ I know  not,”  said  he,  “ but  one  thing  I know, 

that  the  sages  have  forbidden  it.”  “ Sages  like  yourself,” 
cried  I with  warmth;  “ sages  like  yourself,  with  long  beards 
and  short  understandings:  the  use  of  both  drinks  is  per- 
mitted, but  more  danger  lurks  in  this  bottle  than  in  a tun 
of  wine.  Well  said  my  Lord  the  Nazarene,  ‘ ye  strain  at  a 
gnat,  and  swallow  a camel ' ; but  as  you  are  cold  and  shiver- 
ing, take  the  bottle  and  revive  yourself  with  a small  portion 
of  its  contents.”  He  put  it  to  his  lips  and  found  not  a single 
drop.  The  old  Genoese  grinned. 

“ Bestia,”  said  he,  “ I saw  by  your  looks  that  you  wished 
to  drink  of  that  bottle,  and  I said  within  me,  even  though  I 
suffocate,  yet  will  I not  leave  one  drop  of  the  aguardiente 
of  the  Christian  Cavalier  to  be  wasted  on  that  Jew,  on  whose 
head  may  evil  lightnings  fall.” 

“ Now,  Sir  Cavalier,”  he  continued,  “ you  can  go  ashore; 
these  two  sailors  shall  row  you  to  the  Mole,  and  convey  your 
baggage  where  you  think  proper;  may  the  Virgin  bless  you 
wherever  you  go.” 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


477 


CHAPTER  LV 

The  Mole — The  Two  Moors — Djmah  of  Tangier — House  of  God — British 
Consul — Curious  Spectacle — The  Moorish  House — Joanna  Correa — 
Ave  Maria. 

So  we  rode  to  the  Mole  and  landed.  This  Mole  consists 
at  present  of  nothing  more  than  an  immense  number  of 
large  loose  stones,  which  run  about  five  hundred  yards  into 
the  bay;  they  are  part  of  the  ruins  of  a magnificent  pier 
which  the  English,  who  were  the  last  foreign  nation  which 
held  Tangier,  destroyed  when  they  evacuated  the  place. 
The  Moors  have  never  attempted  to  repair  it;  the  surf  at 
high  water  breaks  over  it  with  great  fury.  I found  it  a 
difficult  task  to  pick  my  way  over  the  slippery  stones,  and 
should  once  or  twice  have  fallen  but  for  the  kindness  of  the 
Genoese  mariners.  At  last  we  reached  the  beach,  and  were 
proceeding  towards  the  gate  of  the  town,  when  two  persons, 
Moors,  came  up  to  us.  I almost  started  at  sight  of  the  first; 
he  was  a huge  old  barbarian  with  a white  uncombed  beard, 
dirty  turban,  haik,  and  trousers,  naked  legs,  and  immense 
splay  feet,  the  heels  of  which  stood  out  a couple  of  inches 
at  least  behind  his  rusty  black  slippers. 

“ That  is  the  captain  of  the  port,”  said  one  of  the  Genoese ; 
" pay  him  respect.”  I accordingly  doffed  my  hat  and 
cried,  “ Sba  alkheir  a sidi'f  (Good-morning,  my  lord).  “ Are 
you  Englishmans?  ” shouted  the  old  grisly  giant.  “ English- 
mans, my  lord,”  I replied,  and,  advancing,  presented  him 
my  hand,  which  he  nearly  wrung  off  with  his  tremendous 
gripe.  The  other  Moor  now  addressed  me  in  a jargon 
composed  of  English,  Spanish,  and  Arabic.  A queer-looking 
personage  was  he  also,  but  very  different  in  most  respects 
from  his  companion,  being  shorter  by  a head  at  least,  and 
less  complete  by  one  eye,  for  the  left  orb  of  vision  was  closed, 
leaving  him,  as  the  Spaniards  style  it,  tuerto  ; he,  however, 
far  outshone  the  other  in  cleanliness  of  turban,  haik,  and 
trousers.  From  what  he  jabbered  to  me,  I collected  that 
he  was  the  English  consul's  mahasni  or  soldier;  that  the 
consul,  being  aware  of  my  arrival,  had  dispatched  him  to 
conduct  me  to  his  house.  He  then  motioned  me  to  follow 
him,  which  I did,  the  old  port  captain  attending  us  to  the 
gate,  when  he  turned  aside  into  a building,  which  I judged 
to  be  a kind  of  custom-house  from  the  bales  and  boxes  of 
every  description  piled  up  before  it.  We  passed  the  gate 
and  proceeded  up  a steep  and  winding  ascent;  on  our  left 


478 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


was  a battery  full  of  guns,  pointing  to  the  sea,  and  on  our 
right  a massive  wall,  seemingly  in  part  cut  out  of  the  hill; 
a little  higher  up  we  arrived  at  an  opening  where  stood  the 
mosque  which  I have  already  mentioned.  As  I gazed 
upon  the  tower  I said  to  myself,  “ Surely  we  have  here  a 
younger  sister  of  the  Giralda  of  Seville.” 

I know  not  whether  the  resemblance  between  the  two 
edifices  has  been  observed  by  any  other  individual;  and 
perhaps  there  are  those  who  would  assert  that  no  resem- 
blance exists,  especially  if,  in  forming  an  opinion,  they  were 
much  swayed  by  size  and  colour:  the  hue  of  the  Giralda  is 
red,  or  rather  vermilion,  whilst  that  which  predominates 
in  the  Djmah  of  Tangier  is  green,  the  bricks  of  which  it  is 
built  being  of  that  colour;  though  between  them,  at  certain 
intervals,  are  placed  others  of  a light  red  tinge,  so  that  the 
tower  is  beautifully  variegated.  With  respect  to  size, 
standing  beside  the  giant  witch  of  Seville,  the  Tangerine 
Djmah  would  show  like  a ten-year  sapling  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  cedar  of  Lebanon,  whose  trunk  the  tempests  of  five 
hundred  years  have  worn.  And  yet  I will  assert  that  the 
towers  in  other  respects  are  one  and  the  same,  and  that  the 
same  mind  and  the  same  design  are  manifested  in  both; 
the  same  shape  do  they  exhibit,  and  the  same  marks  have 
they  on  their  walls,  even  those  mysterious  arches  graven  on 
the  superficies  of  the  bricks,  emblematic  of  I know  not  what. 
The  two  structures  may,  without  any  violence,  be  said  to 
stand  in  the  same  relation  to  each  other  as  the  ancient  and 
modern  Moors.  The  Giralda  is  the  world's  wonder,  and  the 
old  Moor  was  all  but  the  world's  conqueror.  The  modern 
Moor  is  scarcely  known,  and  who  ever  heard  of  the  Tower 
of  Tangier?  Yet  examine  it  attentively,  and  you  will  find 
in  that  tower  much,  very  much,  to  admire,  and  certainly, 
if  opportunity  enable  you  to  consider  the  modern  Moor  as 
minutely,  you  will  discover  in  him,  and  in  his  actions, 
amongst  much  that  is  wild,  uncouth,  and  barbarous,  not  a 
little  capable  of  amply  rewarding  laborious  investigation. 

As  we  passed  the  mosque  I stopped  for  a moment  before 
the  door,  and  looked  in  upon  the  interior:  I saw  nothing  but 
a quadrangular  court  paved  with  painted  tiles  and  exposed 
to  the  sky;  on  all  sides  were  arched  piazzas,  and  in  the 
middle  was  a fountain,  at  which  several  Moors  were  perform- 
ing their  ablutions.  I looked  around  for  the  abominable 
thing,  and  found  it  not;  no  scarlet  strumpet  with  a crown 
of  false  gold  sat  nursing  an  ugly  changeling  in  a niche. 
“ Come  here,”  said  I,  “ papist,  and  take  a lesson;  here  is  a 
house  of  God,  in  externals  at  least,  such  as  a house  of  God 
should  be:  four  walls,  a fountain,  and  the  eternal  firma- 
ment above,  which  mirrors  his  glory.  Dost  thou  build 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


479 


such  houses  to  the  God  who  hast  said,  ‘ Thou  shalt  make 
to  thyself  no  graven  image'?  Fool,  thy  walls  are  stuck 
with  idols;  thou  callest  a stone  thy  Father,  and  a piece  of 
rotting  wood  the  Queen  of  Heaven.  Fool,  thou  knowest 
not  even  the  Ancient  of  Days,  and  the  very  Moor  can  instruct 
thee.  He  at  least  knows  the  Ancient  of  Days  who  has  said, 
‘ Thou  shalt  have  no  other  gods  but  me.'  ” 

And  as  I said  these  words,  I heard  a cry  like  the  roaring 
of  a lion,  and  an  awful  voice  in  the  distance  exclaim,  “ Kapul 
Udbagh  ” (there  is  no  god  but  one). 

We  now  turned  to  the  left  through  a passage  which 
passed  under  the  tower,  and  had  scarcely  proceeded  a few 
steps,  when  I heard  a prodigious  hubbub  of  infantine  voices: 
I listened  for  a moment,  and  distinguished  verses  of  the 
Koran;  it  was  a school.  Another  lesson  for  thee,  papist. 
Thou  callest  thyself  a Christian,  yet  the  book  of  Christ  thou 
persecutest;  thou  huntest  it  even  to  the  sea-shore,  com- 
pelling it  to  seek  refuge  upon  the  billows  of  the  sea.  Fool, 
learn  a lesson  from  the  Moor,  who  teaches  his  child  to  repeat 
with  its  first  accents  the  most  important  portions  of  the 
book  of  his  law,  and  considers  himself  wise  or  foolish, 
according  as  he  is  versed  in  or  ignorant  of  that  book;  whilst 
thou,  blind  slave,  knowest  not  what  the  book  of  thy  own 
law  contains,  nor  wishest  to  know:  yet  art  thou  not  to  be 
judged  by  thy  own  law?  Idolmonger,  learn  consistency 
from  the  Moor:  he  says  that  he  shall  be  judged  after  his  own 
law,  and  therefore  he  prizes  and  gets  by  heart  the  entire 
book  of  his  law. 

We  were  now  at  the  consul's  house,  a large  roomy 
habitation,  built  in  the  English  style.  The  soldier  led  me 
through  a court  into  a large  hall  hung  with  the  skins  of  all 
kinds  of  ferocious  animals,  from  the  kingly  lion  to  the 
snarling  jackal.  Here  I was  received  by  a Jew  domestic, 
who  conducted  me  at  once  to  the  consul,  who  was  in  his 
library.  He  received  me  with  the  utmost  frankness  and 
genuine  kindness,  and  informed  me  that,  having  received 
a letter  from  his  excellent  friend  Mr.  B.,  in  which  I was 
strongly  recommended,  he  had  already  engaged  me  a 
lodging  in  the  house  of  a Spanish  woman,  who  was,  however, 
a British  subject,  and  with  whom  he  believed  that  I should 
find  myself  as  comfortable  as  it  was  possible  to  be  in  such  a 
place  as  Tangier.  He  then  inquired  if  I had  any  particular 
motive  for  visiting  the  place,  and  I informed  him  without 
any  hesitation  that  I came  with  the  intention  of  distributing 
a certain  number  of  copies  of  the  New  Testament  in  the 
Spanish  language  amongst  the  Christian  residents  of  the 
place.  He  smiled,  and  advised  me  to  proceed  with  consider- 
able caution,  which  I promised  to  do.  We  then  discoursed 


480 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


on  other  subjects,  and  it  was  not  long  before  I perceived 
that  I was  in  the  company  of  a most  accomplished  scholar, 
especially  in  the  Greek  and  Latin  classics;  he  appeared 
likewise  to  be  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  Barbary 
empire  and  with  the  Moorish  character. 

After  half  an  hour’s  conversation,  exceedingly  agreeable 
and  instructive  to  myself,  I expressed  a wish  to  proceed 
to  my  lodging:  whereupon  he  rang  the  bell,  and  the  same 
Jewish  domestic  entering  who  had  introduced  me,  he  said 
to  him  in  the  English  language,  “ Take  this  gentleman  to 
the  house  of  Joanna  Correa,  the  Mahonese  widow,  and  enjoin 
her,  in  my  name,  to  take  care  of  him  and  attend  to  his 
comforts;  by  doing  which  she  will  confirm  me  in  the  good 
opinion  which  I at  present  entertain  of  her,  and  will  increase 
my  disposition  to  befriend  her.” 

So,  attended  by  the  Jew,  I now  bent  my  steps  to  the 
lodging  prepared  for  me.  Having  ascended  the  street  in 
which  the  house  of  the  consul  was  situated,  we  entered  a 
small  square  which  stands  about  half  way  up  the  hill.  This, 
my  companion  informed  me,  was  the  soc,  or  market-place. 
A curious  spectacle  here  presented  itself.  All  round  the 
square  were  small  wooden  booths,  which  very  much  re- 
sembled large  boxes  turned  on  their  sides,  the  lid  being 
supported  above  by  a string.  Before  each  of  these  boxes 
was  a species  of  counter,  or  rather  one  long  counter  ran  in 
front  of  the  whole  line,  upon  which  were  raisins,  dates,  and 
small  barrels  of  sugar,  soap,  and  butter,  and  various  other 
articles.  Within  each  box,  in  front  of  the  counter,  and  about 
three  feet  from  the  ground,  s^at  a human  being,  with  a 
blanket  on  its  shoulders,  a dirty  turban  on  its  head,  and 
ragged  trousers,  which  descended  as  far  as  the  knee,  though 
in  some  instances,  I believe,  these  were  entirely  dispensed 
with.  In  its  hand  it  held  a stick,  to  the  end  of  which  was 
affixed  a bunch  of  palm  leaves,  which  it  waved  incessantly 
as  a fan,  for  the  purpose  of  scaring  from  its  goods  the  million 
flies  which,  engendered  by  the  Barbary  sun,  endeavoured 
to  settle  upon  them.  Behind  it,  and  on  either  side,  were 
piles  of  the  same  kind  of  goods.  Shrit  hinai , shrit  hinai , 
(buy  here,  buy  here),  was  continually  proceeding  from  its 
mouth.  Such  are  the  grocers  of  Tangier,  such  their  shops. 

In  the  middle  of  the  soc,  upon  the  stones,  were  pyramids 
of  melons  and  sandias,  (the  water  species),  and  also  baskets 
filled  with  other  kinds  of  fruit,  exposed  for  sale,  whilst  round 
cakes  of  bread  were  lying  here  and  there  upon  the  stones, 
beside  which  sat  on  their  hams  the  wildest-looking  beings 
that  the  most  extravagant  imagination  ever  conceived, 
the  head  covered  with  an  enormous  straw  hat,  at  least  two 
yards  in  circumference,  the  eaves  of  which,  flapping  down, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


481 


completely  concealed  the  face,  whilst  the  form  was  swathed 
in  a blanket,  from  which  occasionally  were  thrust  skinny 
arms  and  fingers.  These  were  Moorish  women,  who  were, 
I believe,  in  all  instances,  old  and  ugly,  judging  from  the 
countenances  of  which  I caught  a glimpse  as  they  lifted  the 
eaves  of  their  hats  to  gaze  on  me  as  I passed,  or  to  curse 
me  for  stamping  on  their  bread.  The  whole  soc  was  full  of 
people,  and  there  was  abundance  of  bustle,  screaming,  and 
vociferation,  and  as  the  sun,  though  the  hour  was  still 
early,  was  shining  with  the  greatest  brilliancy,  I thought 
that  I had  scarcely  ever  witnessed  a livelier  scene. 

Crossing  the  soc  we  entered  a narrow  street  with  the 
same  kind  of  box-shops  on  each  side,  some  of  which,  how- 
ever, were  either  unoccupied  or  not  yet  opened,  the  lid  being 
closed.  We  almost  immediately  turned  to  the  left,  up  a 
street  somewhat  similar,  and  my  guide  presently  entered 
the  door  of  a low  house,  which  stood  at  the  corner  of  a little 
alley,  and  which  he  informed  me  was  the  abode  of  Joanna 
Correa.  We  soon  stood  in  the  midst  of  this  habitation.  I 
say  the  midst,  as  all  the  Moorish  houses  are  built  with  a small 
court  in  the  middle.  This  one  was  not  more  than  ten  feet 
square.  It  was  open  at  the  top,  and  around  it  on  three 
sides  were  apartments;  on  the  fourth  a small  staircase, 
which  communicated  with  the  upper  story,  half  of  which 
consisted  of  a terrace  looking  down  into  the  court,  over  the 
low  walls  of  which  you  enjoyed  a prospect  of  the  sea  and  a 
considerable  part  of  the  town.  The  rest  of  the  story  was 
taken  up  by  a long  room,  destined  for  myself,  and  which 
opened  upon  the  terrace  by  a pair  of  folding-doors.  At 
either  end  of  this  apartment  stood  a bed,  extending  trans- 
versely from  wall  to  wall,  the  canopy  touching  the  ceiling. 
A table  and  two  or  three  chairs  completed  the  furniture. 

I was  so  occupied  in  inspecting  the  house  of  Joanna 
Correa,  that  at  first  I paid  little  attention  to  that  lady  her- 
self. She  now,  however,  came  up  upon  the  terrace  where 
my  guide  and  myself  were  standing.  She  was  a woman 
about  five  and  forty,  with  regular  features,  which  had  once 
been  handsome,  but  had  received  considerable  injury  from 
time,  and  perhaps  more  from  trouble.  Two  of  her  front 
teeth  had  disappeared,  but  she  still  had  fine  black  hair.  As 
I looked  upon  her  countenance,  I said  within  myself,  if 
there  be  truth  in  physiognomy,  thou  art  good  and  gentle, 
O Joanna;  and,  indeed,  the  kindness  I experienced  from 
her  during  the  six  weeks  which  I spent  beneath  her  roof 
would  have  made  me  a convert  to  that  science  had  I doubted 
in  it  before.  I believe  no  warmer  and  more  affectionate 
heart  ever  beat  in  human  bosom  than  in  that  of  Joanna 
Correa,  the  Mahonese  widow,  and  it  was  indexed  by  features 
33— Q 


482 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


beaming  with  benevolence  and  good  nature,  though  some- 
what clouded  with  melancholy. 

She  informed  me  that  she  had  been  married  to  a Genoese, 
the  master  of  a felouk  which  passed  between  Gibraltar  and 
Tangier,  who  had  been  dead  about  four  years,  leaving  her 
with  a family  of  four  children,  the  eldest  of  which  was  a 
lad  of  thirteen;  that  she  had  experienced  great  difficulty 
in  providing  for  her  family  and  herself  since  the  death  of 
her  husband,  but  that  Providence  had  raised  her  up  a few 
excellent  friends,  especially  the  British  consul;  that  besides 
letting  lodgings  to  such  travellers  as  myself,  she  made  bread 
which  was  in  high  esteem  with  the  Moors,  and  that  she  was 
likewise  in  partnership  in  the  sale  of  liquors  with  an  old 
Genoese.  She  added,  that  this  last  person  lived  below  in 
one  of  the  apartments;  that  he  was  a man  of  great  ability 
and  much  learning,  but  that  she  believed  he  was  occasionally 
somewhat  touched  here,  pointing  with  her  finger  to  her  fore- 
head, and  she  therefore  hoped  that  I would  not  be  offended 
at  anything  extraordinary  in  his  language  or  behaviour. 
She  then  left  me,  as  she  said,  to  give  orders  for  my  breakfast; 
whereupon  the  Jewish  domestic,  who  had  accompanied  me 
from  the  consul,  finding  that  I was  established  in  the  house, 
departed. 

I speedily  sat  down  to  breakfast  in  an  apartment  on  the 
left  side  of  the  little  wustuddur,  the  fare  was  excellent; 
tea,  fried  fish,  eggs,  and  grapes,  not  forgetting  the  cele- 
brated bread  of  Joanna  Correa.  I was  waited  upon  by  a 
tall  Jewish  youth  of  about  twenty  years,  who  informed  me 
that  his  name  was  Haim  Ben  Atar,  that  he  was  a native 
of  Fez,  from  whence  his  parents  brought  him  at  a very  early 
age  to  Tangier,  where  he  had  passed  the  greater  part  of  his 
life  principally  in  the  service  of  Joanna  Correa,  waiting  upon 
those  who,  like  myself,  lodged  in  the  house.  I had  com- 
pleted my  meal,  and  was  seated  in  the  little  court,  when  I 
heard  in  the  apartment  opposite  to  that  in  which  I had 
breakfasted  several  sighs,  which  were  succeeded  by  as  many 
groans,  and  then  came  “ Ave  Maria , gratia  plena , ora  pro 
me,”  and  finally  a croaking  voice  chanted: — 

“ Gentem  auferte  perfidam 
Credentium  de  finibus, 

Ut  Christo  laudes  debitas 
Persolvamus  alacriter.” 

“ That  is  the  old  Genoese,”  whispered  Haim  Ben  Atar, 
“ praying  to  his  God,  which  he  always  does  with  particular 
devotion  when  he  happens  to  have  gone  to  bed  the  preceding 
evening  rather  in  liquor.  He  has  in  his  room  a picture  of 
Maria  Buckra,  before  which  he  generally  burns  a taper,  and 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


483 


on  her  account  he  will  never  permit  me  to  enter  his  apart- 
ment. He  once  caught  me  looking  at  her,  and  I thought 
he  would  have  killed  me,  and  since  then  he  always  keeps 
his  chamber  locked,  and  carries  the  key  in  his  pocket  when 
he  goes  out.  He  hates  both  Jew  and  Moor,  and  says  that 
he  is  now  living  amongst  them  for  his  sins.” 

“ They  do  not  place  tapers  before  pictures,”  said  I, 
and  strolled  forth  to  see  the  wonders  of  the  land. 


CHAPTER  LYI 

The  Mahasni — Sin  Samani — The  Bazaar — Moorish  Saints — See  the  Ayana  ! 

— The  Prickly  Fig — Jewish  Graves — The  Place  of  Carcases — The 

Stable  Boy — Horses  of  the  Moslem — Dar  Dwag. 

I was  standing  in  the  market-place,  a spectator  of  much 
the  same  scene  as  I have  already  described,  when  a Moor 
came  up  to  me  and  attempted  to  utter  a few  words  in 
Spanish.  He  was  a tall  elderly  man,  with  sharp  but  rather 
whimsical  features,  and  might  have  been  called  good- 
looking,  had  he  not  been  one-eyed,  a very  common  de- 
formity in  this  country.  His  body  was  swathed  in  an 
immense  haik.  Finding  that  I could  understand  Moorish, 
he  instantly  began  talking  with  immense  volubility,  and  I 
soon  learned  that  he  was  a Mahasni.  He  expatiated  diffusely 
on  the  beauties  of  Tangier,  of  which  he  said  he  was  a native, 
and  at  last  exclaimed,  “ Come,  my  sultan,  come,  my  lord, 
and  I will  show  you  many  things  which  will  gladden  your 
eyes,  and  fill  your  heart  with  sunshine;  it  were  a shame  in 
me,  who  have  the  advantage  of  being  a son  of  Tangier,  to 
permit  a stranger  who  comes  from  an  island  in  the  great 
sea,  as  you  tell  me  you  do,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  this 
blessed  land,  to  stand  here  in  the  soc  with  no  one  to  guide 
him.  By  Allah,  it  shall  not  be  so.  Make  room  for  my 
sultan,  make  room  for  my  lord/'  he  continued,  pushing  his 
way  through  a crowd  of  men  and  children  who  had  gathered 
round  us;  “ it  is  his  highness"  pleasure  to  go  with  me. 
This  way,  my  lord,  this  way  ” ; and  he  led  the  way  up  the 
hill,  walking  at  a tremendous  rate  and  talking  still  faster. 
“ This  street,”  said  he,  “ is  the  Siarrin,  and  its  like  is  not 
to  be  found  in  Tangier;  observe  how  broad  it  is,  even  half 
the  breadth  of  the  soc  itself ; here  are  the  shops  of  the  most 
considerable  merchants,  where  are  sold  precious  articles 
of  all  kinds.  Observe  those  two  men,  they  are  Algerines 
and  good  Moslems;  they  fled  from  Zair  ( Algiers ) when  the 


484 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


Nazarenes  conquered  it,  not  by  force  of  fighting,  not  by 
valour,  as  you  may  well  suppose,  but  by  gold;  the 
Nazarenes  only  conquer  by  gold.  The  Moor  is  good,  the 
Moor  is  strong,  who  so  good  and  strong?  but  he  fights  not 
with  gold,  and  therefore  he  lost  Zair. 

“ Observe  you  those  men  seated  on  the  benches  by 
those  portals:  they  are  Mahasniah,  they  are  my  brethren. 
See  their  haiks  how  white,  see  their  turbans  how  white. 
O that  you  could  see  their  swords  in  the  day  of  war,  for 
bright,  bright  are  their  swords.  Now  they  bear  no  swords. 
Wherefore  should  they?  Is  there  not  peace  in  the  land? 
See  you  him  in  the  shop  opposite?  That  is  the  Pasha  of 
Tangier,  that  is  the  Hamed  Sin  Samani,  the  under  Pasha  of 
Tangier;  the  elder  Pasha,  my  lord,  is  away  on  a journey; 
may  Allah  send  him  a safe  return.  Yes,  that  is  Hamed; 
he  sits  in  his  hanutz  as  were  he  nought  more  than  a merchant, 
yet  life  and  death  are  in  his  hands.  There  he  dispenses 
justice,  even  as  he  dispenses  the  essence  of  the  rose  and 
cochineal,  and  powder  of  cannon  and  sulphur;  and  these 
two  last  he  sells  on  the  account  of  Abderrahman,  my  lord 
and  sultan,  for  none  can  sell  powder  and  the  sulphur  dust 
in  his  land  but  the  sultan.  Should  you  wish  to  purchase 
atar  del  nuar,  should  you  wish  to  purchase  the  essence  of 
the  rose,  you  must  go  to  the  hanutz  of  Sin  Samani,  for  there 
only  you  will  get  it  pure;  you  must  receive  it  from  no 
common  Moor,  but  only  from  Hamed.  May  Allah  bless 
Hamed.  The  Mahasniah,  my  brethren,  wait  to  do  his 
orders,  for  wherever  sits  the  Pasha,  there  is  a hall  of  judg- 
ment. See,  now  we  are  opposite  the  bazaar;  beneath  yon 
gate  is  the  court  of  the  bazaar;  what  will  you  not  find  in 
that  bazaar?  Silks  from  Fez  you  will  find  there;  and  if 
you  wish  for  sibat,  if  you  wish  for  slippers  for  your  feet, 
you  must  seek  them  there,  and  there  also  are  sold  curious 
things  from  the  towns  of  the  Nazarenes.  Those  large 
houses  on  our  left  are  habitations  of  Nazarene  consuls; 
you  have  seen  many  such  in  your  own  land,  therefore  why 
should  you  stay  to  look  at  them?  Do  you  not  admire  this 
street  of  the  Siarrin?  Whatever  enters  or  goes  out  of 
Tangier  by  the  land  passes  through  this  street.  Oh,  the 
riches  that  pass  through  this  street!  Behold  those  camels, 
what  a long  train;  twenty,  thirty,  a whole  cafila  descending 
the  street.  Wullah!  I know  those  camels,  I know  the 
driver.  Good  day,  O Sidi  Hassim,  in  how  many  days  from 
Fez?  And  now  we  are  arrived  at  the  wall,  and  we  must 
pass  under  this  gate.  This  gate  is  called  Bab  del  Faz;  we 
are  now  in  the  Soc  de  Barra.” 

The  Soc  de  Barra  is  an  open  place  beyond  the  upper  wall 
of  Tangier,  on  the  side  of  the  hill.  The  ground  is  irregular 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


485 


and  steep;  there  are,  however,  some  tolerably  level  spots. 
In  this  place,  every  Thursday  and  Sunday  morning,  a 
species  of  mart  is  held,  on  which  account  it  is  called  Soc  de 
Barra,  or  the  outward  market-place.  Here  and  there, 
near  the  town  ditch,  are  subterranean  pits  with  small 
orifices,  about  the  circumference  of  a chimney,  which  are 
generally  covered  with  a large  stone,  or  stuffed  with  straw. 
These  pits  are  granaries,  in  which  wheat,  barley,  and  other 
species  of  grain  intended  for  sale  are  stored.  On  one  side 
are  two  or  three  rude  huts,  or  rather  sheds,  beneath  which 
keep  watch  the  guardians  of  the  corn.  It  is  very  dangerous 
to  pass  over  this  hill  at  night,  after  the  town  gates  are  closed, 
as  at  that  time  numerous  large  and  ferocious  dogs  are  let 
loose,  who  would  to  a certainty  pull  down,  and  perhaps 
destroy,  any  stranger  who  should  draw  nigh.  Half  way  up 
the  hill  are  seen  four  white  walls,  inclosing  a spot  about  ten 
feet  square,  where  rest  the  bones  of  Sidi  Mokhfidh,  a saint 
of  celebrity,  who  died  some  fifteen  years  ago.  Here  termin- 
ates the  soc;  the  remainder  of  the  hill  is  called  El  Kawar, 
or  the  place  of  graves,  being  the  common  burying  ground  of 
Tangier;  the  resting  plaoes  of  the  dead  are  severally 
distinguished  by  a few  stones  arranged  so  as  to  form  an 
oblong  circle.  Near  Mokhfidh  sleeps  Sidi  Gali;  but  the 
principal  saint  of  Tangier  lies  interred  on  the  top  of  the  hill, 
in  the  centre  of  a small  plain.  A beautiful  chapel  or  mosque, 
with  vaulted  roof,  is  erected  there  in  his  honour,  which  is  in 
general  adorned  with  banners  of  various  dyes.  The  name 
of  this  saint  is  Mohammed  el  Hadge,  and  his  memory  is 
held  in  the  utmost  veneration  in  Tangier  and  its  vicinity. 
His  death  occurred  at  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century. 

These  details  I either  gathered  at  the  time  or  on  subse- 
quent occasions.  On  the  north  side  of  the  soc,  close  by  the 
town,  is  a wall  with  a gate.  “ Come,,,  said  the  old  Mahasni, 
giving  a flourish  with  his  hand;  “ Gome,  and  I will  show  you 
the  garden  of  a Nazarene  consul.1 ” I followed  him  through 
the  gate,  and  found  myself  in  a spacious  garden  laid  out  in 
the  European  taste,  and  planted  with  lemon  and  pear  trees, 
and  various  kinds  of  aromatic  shrubs.  It  was,  however, 
evident  that  the  owner  chiefly  prided  himself  on  his  flowers, 
of  which  there  were  numerous  beds.  There  was  a handsome 
summer-house,  and  art  seemed  to  have  exhausted  itself  in 
making  the  place  complete. 

One  thing  was  wanting,  and  its  absence  was  strangely 
remarkable  in  a garden  at  this  time  of  the  year;  scarcely  a 
leaf  was  to  be  seen.  The  direst  of  all  the  plagues  which 
devastated  Egypt  was  now  busy  in  this  part  of  Africa — 
the  locust  was  at  work,  and  in  no  place  more  fiercely  than  in 


486 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


the  particular  spot  where  I was  now  standing.  All  around 
looked  blasted.  The  trees  were  brown  and  bald  as  in  winter. 
Nothing  green  save  the  fruits,  especially  the  grapes,  huge 
clusters  of  which  were  depending  from  the  “ parras  ” ; for 
the  locust  touches  not  the  fruit  whilst  a single  leaf  remains  to 
be  devoured.  As  we  passed  along  the  walks  these  horrible 
insects  flew  against  us  in  every  direction,  and  perished  by 
hundreds  beneath  our  feet.  “ See  the  ayanas,”  said  the  old 
Mahasni,  “ and  hear  them  eating.  Powerful  is  the  ay  ana, 
more  powerful  than  the  sultan  or  the  consul.  Should  the 
sultan  send  all  his  Mahasniah  against  the  ayana,  should  he 
send  me  with  them,  the  ayana  would  say,  ■ Ha!  ha!  * 
Powerful  is  the  ayana!  He  fears  not  the  consul.  A few 
weeks  ago  the  consul  said,  ‘ I am  stronger  than  the  ayana, 
and  I will  extirpate  him  from  the  land/  So  he  shouted 
through  the  city,  ‘ O Tangerines!  speed  forth  to  fight  the 
ayana, — destroy  him  in  the  egg;  for  know  that  whosoever 
shall  bring  me  one  pound  weight  of  the  eggs  of  the  ayana, 
unto  him  will  I give  five  reals  of  Spain;  there  shall  be  no 
ayanas  this  year.'  So  all  Tangier  rushed  forth  to  fight  the 
ayana,  and  to  collect  the  eggs  which  the  ayana  had  laid  to 
hatch  beneath  the  sand  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  in  the 
roads,  and  in  the  plains.  And  my  own  child,  who  is  seven 
years  old,  went  forth  to  fight  the  ayana,  and  he  alone 
collected  eggs  to  the  weight  of  five  pounds,  eggs  which  the 
ayana  had  placed  beneath  the  sand,  and  he  carried  them  to 
the  consul,  and  the  consul  paid  the  price.  And  hundreds 
carried  eggs  to  the  consul,  more  or  less,  and  the  consul  paid 
them  the  price,  and  in  less  than  three  days  the  treasure  chest 
of  the  consul  was  exhausted.  And  then  he  cried,  ‘ Desist, 
O Tangerines!  perhaps  we  have  destroyed  the  ayana, 
perhaps  we  have  destroyed  them  all/  Ha!  ha!  Look 
around  you,  and  beneath  you,  and  above  you,  and  tell  me 
whether  the  consul  has  destroyed  the  ayana.  Oh,  powerful 
is  the  ayana ! More  powerful  than  the  consul,  more  powerful 
than  the  sultan  and  all  his  armies/' 

It  will  be  as  well  to  observe  here,  that  within  a week 
from  this  time  all  the  locusts  had  disappeared,  no  one  knew 
how,  only  a few  stragglers  remained.  But  for  this  provi- 
dential deliverance,  the  fields  and  gardens  in  the  vicinity  of 
Tangier  would  have  been  totally  devastated.  These  insects 
were  of  an  immense  size,  and  of  a loathly  aspect. 

We  now  passed  over  the  soc  to  the  opposite  side,  where 
stand  the  huts  of  the  guardians.  Here  a species  of  lane 
presents  itself,  which  descends  to  the  sea-shore;  it  is  deep 
and  precipitous,  and  resembles  a gully  or  ravine.  The  banks 
on  either  side  are  covered  with  the  tree  which  bears  the 
prickly  fig,  called  in  Moorish,  Kermous  del  hide.  There  is 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


487 


something  wild  and  grotesque  in  the  appearance  of  this  tree 
or  plant,  for  I know  not  which  to  call  it.  Its  stem,  though 
frequently  of  the  thickness  of  a man's  body,  has  no  head, 
but  divides  itself,  at  a short  distance  from  the  ground,  into 
many  crooked  branches,  which  shoot  in  all  directions,  and 
bear  green  and  uncouth  leaves,  about  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  and  which,  if  they  resemble  anything,  present 
the  appearance  of  the  fore  fins  of  a seal,  and  consist  of 
multitudinous  fibres.  The  fruit,  which  somewhat  resembles 
a pear,  has  a rough  tegument  covered  with  minute  prickles, 
which  instantly  enter  the  hand  which  touches  them,  however 
slightly,  and  are  very  difficult  to  extract.  I never  remember 
to  have  seen  vegetation  in  ranker  luxuriance  than  that  which 
these  fig-trees  exhibited,  nor  upon  the  whole  a more  singular 
spot.  “ Follow  me,”  said  the  Mahasni,  “ and  I will  show 
you  something  which  you  will  like  to  see.”  So  he  turned  to 
the  left,  leading  the  way  by  a narrow  path  up  the  steep 
bank,  till  we  reached  the  summit  of  a hillock,  separated  by 
a deep  ditch  from  the  wall  of  Tangier.  The  ground  was 
thickly  covered  with  the  trees  already  described,  which 
spread  their  strange  arms  along  the  surface,  and  whose  thick 
leaves  crushed  beneath  our  feet  as  we  walked  along. 
Amongst  them  I observed  a large  number  of  stone  slabs 
lying  horizontally;  they  were  rudely  scrawled  over  with  odd 
characters,  which  I stooped  down  to  inspect.  “ Are  you 
Talib  enough  to  read  those  signs?  ” exclaimed  the  old  Moor. 
“ They  are  letters  of  the  accursed  Jews ; this  is  their  mearrah, 
as  they  call  it,  and  here  they  inter  their  dead.  Fools,  they 
trust  in  Muza,  when  they  might  believe  in  Mohammed,  and 
therefore  their  dead  shall  burn  everlastingly  in  Jehinnim. 
See,  my  sultan,  how  fat  is  the  soil  of  this  mearrah  of  the 
Jews;  see  what  kermous  grow  here.  When  I was  a boy  I 
often  came  to  the  mearrah  of  the  Jews  to  eat  kermous  in 
the  season  of  their  ripeness.  The  Moslem  boys  of  Tangier 
love  the  kermous  of  the  mearrah  of  the  Jews;  but  the  Jews 
will  not  gather  them.  They  say  that  the  waters  of  the 
springs  which  nourish  the  roots  of  these  trees,  pass  among 
the  bodies  of  their  dead,  and  for  that  reason  it  is  an  abomina- 
tion to  taste  of  these  fruits.  Be  this  true,  or  be  it  not,  one 
thing  is  certain,  in  whatever  manner  nourished,  good  are 
the  kermous  which  grow  in  the  mearrah  of  the  Jews.” 

We  returned  to  the  lane  by  the  same  path  by  which  we 
had  come:  as  we  were  descending  it  he  said,  “ Know,  my 
sultan,  that  the  name  of  the  place  where  we  now  are,  and 
which  you  say  you  like  much,  is  Dar  Sinah  ( the  house  of  the 
trades).  You  will  ask  me  why  it  bears  that  name,  as  you  see 
neither  house  nor  man,  neither  Moslem,  Nazarene,  nor  Jew, 
only  our  two  selves;  I will  tell  you,  my  sultan,  for  who  can 


488 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


tell  you  better  than  myself?  Learn,  I pray  you,  that 
Tangier  was  not  always  what  it  is  now,  nor  did  it  occupy 
always  the  place  which  it  does  now.  It  stood  yonder 
(pointing  to  the  east)  on  those  hills  above  the  shore,  and  ruins 
of  houses  are  still  to  be  seen  there,  and  the  spot  is  called 
Old  Tangier.  So  in  the  old  time,  as  I have  heard  say,  this 
Dar  Sinah  was  a street,  whether  without  or  within  the  wall 
matters  not,  and  there  resided  men  of  all  trades;  smiths  of 
gold  and  silver,  and  iron,  and  tin,  and  artificers  of  all  kinds: 
you  had  only  to  go  to  the  Dar  Sinah  if  you  wished  for 
anything  wrought,  and  there  instantly  you  would  find  a 
master  of  the  particular  craft.  My  sultan  tells  me  he  likes 
the  look  of  Dar  Sinah  at  the  present  day;  truly  I know  not 
why,  especially  as  the  kermous  are  not  yet  in  their  ripeness 
nor  fit  to  eat.  If  he  likes  Dar  Sinah  now,  how  would  my 
sultan  have  liked  it  in  the  olden  time,  when  it  was  filled  with 
gold  and  silver,  and  iron  and  tin,  and  was  noisy  with  the 
hammers,  and  the  masters  and  the  cunning  men?  We  are 
now  arrived  at  the  Chali  del  Bahar  (seashore).  Take  care, 
my  sultan,  we  tread  upon  bones.” 

We  had  emerged  from  the  Dar  Sinah,  and  the  seashore 
was  before  us;  on  a sudden  we  found  ourselves  amongst  a 
multitude  of  bones  of  all  kinds  of  animals,  and  seemingly  of 
all  dates;  some  being  blanched  with  time  and  exposure  to 
sun  and  wind,  whilst  to  others  the  flesh  still  partly  clung; 
whole  carcases  were  here,  horses,  asses,  and  even  the  uncouth 
remains  of  a camel.  Gaunt  dogs  were  busy  here,  growling, 
tearing,  and  gnawing;  amongst  whom,  unintimidated, 
stalked  the  carrion  vulture,  fiercely  battening  and  even 
disputing  with  the  brutes  the  garbage;  whilst  the  crow 
hovered  overhead  and  croaked  wistfully,  or  occasionally 
perched  upon  some  upturned  rib  bone.  “ See,”  said  the 
Mahasni,  “ the  kawar  of  the  animals.  My  sultan  has  seen 
the  kawar  of  the  Moslems  and  the  mearrah  of  the  Jews; 
and  he  sees  here  the  kawar  of  the  animals.  All  the  animals 
which  die  in  Tangier  by  the  hand  of  God,  horse,  dog,  or 
camel,  are  brought  to  this  spot,  and  here  they  putrefy  or 
are  devoured  by  the  birds  of  the  heaven  or  the  wild  creatures 
that  prowl  on  the  chali.  Come,  my  sultan,  it  is  not  good  to 
remain  long  in  this  place.” 

We  were  preparing  to  leave  the  spot,  when  we  heard  a 
galloping  down  the  Dar  Sinah,  and  presently  a horse  and 
rider  darted  at  full  speed  from  the  mouth  of  the  lane  and 
appeared  upon  the  strand;  the  horseman,  when  he  saw  us, 
pulled  up  his  steed  with  much  difficulty,  and  joined  us. 
The  horse  was  small  but  beautiful,  a sorrel  with  long  mane 
and  tail;;  had  he  been  hoodwinked  he  might  perhaps  have 
been  mistaken  for  a Cordovese  jaca;  he  was  broad-chested, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


489 


and  rotund  in  his  hind  quarters,  and  possessed  much  of  the 
plumpness  and  sleekness  which  distinguish  that  breed, 
but  looking  in  his  eyes  you  would  have  been  undeceived  in  a 
moment;  a wild  savage  fire  darted  from  the  restless  orbs, 
and  so  far  from  exhibiting  the  docility  of  the  other  noble  and 
loyal  animal,  he  occasionally  plunged  desperately,  and 
could  scarcely  be  restrained  by  a strong  curb  and  powerful 
arm  from  resuming  his  former  headlong  course.  The  rider 
was  a youth,  apparently  about  eighteen,  dressed  as  a 
European,  with  a Montero  cap  on  his  head:  he  was  athletic- 
ally built,  but  with  lengthy  limbs,  his  feet,  for  he  rode 
without  stirrups  or  saddle,  reaching  almost  to  the  ground; 
his  complexion  was  almost  as  dark  as  that  of  a Mulatto; 
his  features  very  handsome,  the  eyes  particularly  so,  but 
filled  with  an  expression  which  was  bold  and  bad;  and  there 
was  a disgusting  look  of  sensuality  about  the  mouth.  He 
addressed  a few  words  to  the  Mahasni,  with  whom  he  seemed 
to  be  well  acquainted,  inquiring  who  I was.  The  old  man 
answered,  “ O Jew,  my  sultan  understands  our  speech,  thou 
hadst  better  address  thyself  to  him.”  The  lad  then  spoke 
to  me  in  Arabic,  but  almost  instantly  dropping  that  language 
proceeded  to  discourse  in  tolerable  French.  “ I suppose 
you  are  French,”  said  he  with  much  familiarity,  “ shall  you 
stay  long  in  Tangier?  ” Flaving  received  an  answer,  he 
proceeded,  “ as  you  are  an  Englishman,  you  are  doubtless 
fond  of  horses,  know,  therefore,  whenever  you  are  disposed 
for  a ride,  I will  accompany  you,  and  procure  you  horses. 
My  name  is  Ephraim  Fragey:  I am  stable-boy  to  the 

Neapolitan  consul,  who  prizes  himself  upon  possessing  the 
best  horses  in  Tangier;  you  shall  mount  any  you  please. 
Would  you  like  to  try  this  little  aoud  ( stallion )?  ” I thanked 
him,  but  declined  his  offer  for  the  present,  asking  him  at  the 
same  time  how  he  had  acquired  the  French  language,  and 
why  he,  a Jew,  did  not  appear  in  the  dress  of  his  brethren? 
“ I am  in  the  service  of  a consul,”  said  he,  “ and  my  master 
obtained  permission  that  I might  dress  myself  in  this 
manner;  and  as  to  speaking  French,  I have  been  to  Mar- 
seilles and  Naples,  to  which  last  place  I conveyed  horses, 
presents  from  the  Sultan.  Besides  French,  I can  speak 
Italian.”  He  then  dismounted,  and  holding  the  horse 
firmly  by  the  bridle  with  one  hand,  proceeded  to  undress 
himself,  which  having  accomplished,  he  mounted  the 
animal  and  rode  into  the  water.  The  skin  of  his  body  was 
much  akin  in  colour  to  that  of  a frog  or  toad,  but  the  frame 
was  that  of  a young  Titan.  The  horse  took  to  the  water 
with  great  unwillingness,  and  at  a small  distance  from  the 
shore  commenced  struggling  with  his  rider,  whom  he  twice 
dashed  from  his  back;  the  lad,  however,  clung  to  the  bridle, 
33— Q * 


490 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


and  detained  the  animal.  All  his  efforts,  however,  being 
unavailing  to  ride  him  deeper  in,  he  fell  to  washing  him 
strenuously  with  his  hands,  then  leading  him  out,  he  dressed 
himself  and  returned  by  the  way  he  came. 

“ Good  are  the  horses  of  the  Moslems,”  said  my  old 
friend,  “ where  will  you  find  such?  They  will  descend 
rocky  mountains  at  full  speed  and  neither  trip  nor  fall,  but 
you  must  be  cautious  with  the  horses  of  the  Moslems,  and 
treat  them  with  kindness,  for  the  horses  of  the  Moslems  are 
proud,  and  they  like  not  being  slaves.  When  they  are 
young  and  first  mounted,  jerk  not  their  mouths  with  your 
bit,  for  be  sure  if  you  do  they  will  kill  you;  sooner  or  later, 
you  will  perish  beneath  their  feet.  Good  are  our  horses, 
and  good  our  riders,  yea,  very  good  are  the  Moslems  at 
mounting  the  horse;  who  are  like  them?  I once  saw  a 
Frank  rider  compete  with  a Moslem  on  this  beach,  and  at  first 
the  Frank  rider  had  it  all  his  own  way,  and  he  passed  the 
Moslem,  but  the  course  was  long,  very  long,  and  the  horse 
of  the  Frank  rider,  which  was  a Frank  also,  panted;  but  the 
horse  of  the  Moslem  panted  not,  for  he  was  a Moslem  also, 
and  the  Moslem  rider  at  last  gave  a cry  and  the  horse  sprang 
forward  and  he  overtook  the  Frank  horse,  and  then  the 
Moslem  rider  stood  up  in  his  saddle.  How  did  he  stand? 
Truly  he  stood  on  his  head,  and  these  eyes  saw  him;  he 
stood  on  his  head  in  the  saddle  as  he  passed  the  Frank  rider; 
and  he  cried  ha!  ha!  as  he  passed  the  Frank  rider;  and  the 
Moslem  horse  cried  ha!  ha!  as  he  passed  the  Frank  breed, 
and  the  Frank  lost  by  a far  distance.  Good  are  the 
Franks;  good  their  horses;  but  better  are  the  Moslems,  and 
better  the  horses  of  the  Moslems.” 

We  now  directed  our  steps  towards  the  town,  but  not 
by  the  path  we  came:  turning  to  the  left  under  the  hill  of 
the  mearrali,  and  along  the  strand,  we  soon  came  to  a rudely 
paved  way  with  a steep  ascent,  which  wound  beneath  the 
wall  of  the  town  to  a gate,  before  which,  on  one  side,  were 
various  little  pits  like  graves,  filled  with  water  or  lime. 
“This  is  Dar  Dwag,”  said  the  Mahasni;  “ this  is  the  house 
of  the  bark,  and  to  this  house  are  brought  the  hides;  all 
those  which  are  prepared  for  use  in  Tangier  are  brought  to 
this  house,  and  here  they  are  cured  with  lime,  and  bran,  and 
bark,  and  herbs.  And  in  this  Dar  Dwag  there  are  one 
hundred  and  forty  pits ; I have  counted  them  myself ; and 
there  were  more  which  have  now  ceased  to  be,  for  the  place  is 
very  ancient.  And  these  pits  are  hired  not  by  one,  nor  by 
two,  but  by  many  people,  and  whosoever  list  can  rent  one  of 
these  pits  and  cure  the  hides  which  he  may  need;  but  the 
owner  of  all  is  one  man,  and  his  name  is  Gado  Ableque. 
And  now  my  sultan  has  seen  the  house  of  the  bark,  and  I will 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


491 


show  him  nothing  more  this  day;  for  to-day  is  Youm  al 
Jumal  (Friday),  and  the  gates  will  be  presently  shut  whilst 
the  Moslems  perform  their  devotions.  So  I will  accompany 
my  sultan  to  the  guest  house,  and  there  I will  leave  him  for 
the  present.” 

We  accordingly  passed  through  a gate,  and  ascending  a 
street  found  ourselves  before  the  mosque  where  I had  stood 
in  the  morning;  in  another  minute  or  two  we  were  at  the 
door  of  Joanna  Correa.  I now  offered  my  kind  guide  a 
piece  of  silver  as  a remuneration  for  his  trouble,  whereupon 
he  drew  himself  up  and  said: — 

“ The  silver  of  my  sultan  I will  not  take,  for  I consider  that 
I have  done  nothing  to  deserve  it.  We  have  not  yet  visited 
all  the  wonderful  things  of  this  blessed  town.  On  a future 
day  I will  conduct  my  sultan  to  the  castle  of  the  governor, 
and  to  other  places  which  my  sultan  will  be  glad  to  see;  and 
when  we  have  seen  all  we  can,  and  my  sultan  is  content  with 
me,  if  at  any  time  he  see  me  in  the  soc  of  a morning,  with  my 
basket  in  my  hand,  and  he  see  nothing  in  that  basket,  then 
is  my  sultan  at  liberty  as  a friend  to  put  grapes  in  my  basket, 
or  bread  in  my  basket,  or  fish  or  meat  in  my  basket.  That 
will  I not  refuse  of  my  sultan,  when  I shall  have  done  more 
for  him  than  I have  now.  But  the  silver  of  my  sultan  will 
I not  take  now  nor  at  any  time.”  He  then  waved  his  hand 
gently  and  departed. 


CHAPTER  LYH 

Strange  Trio— The  Mulatto — The  Peace-offering — Moors  of  Granada — 
Vive  la  Guadeloupe — The  Moors — Pascual  Fava — Blind  Algerine — 
The  Retreat. 

Three  men  were  seated  in  the  wustuddur  of  Joanna 
Correa,  when  I entered;  singular-looking  men  they  all  were, 
though  perhaps  three  were  never  gathered  together  more 
unlike  to  each  other  in  all  points.  The  first  on  whom  I cast 
my  eye  was  a man  about  sixty,  dressed  in  a grey  kerseymere 
coat  with  short  lappets,  yellow  waistcoat,  and  wide  coarse 
canvas  trousers;  upon  his  head  was  a very  broad  dirty 
straw  hat,  and  in  his  hand  he  held  a thick  cane  with  ivory 
handle ; his  eyes  were  bleared  and  squinting,  his  face 
rubicund,  and  his  nose  much  carbuncled.  Beside  him  sat  a 
good-looking  black,  who  perhaps  appeared  more  negro  than 
he  really  was,  from  the  circumstance  of  his  being  dressed  in 
spotless  white  jean — jerkin,  waistcoat,  and  pantaloons  being 


492 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


all  of  that  material:  his  head  gear  consisted  of  a blue 
Montero  cap.  His  eyes  sparkled  like  diamonds,  and  there 
was  an  indescribable  expression  of  good  humour  and  fun 
upon  his  countenance.  The  third  man  was  a Mulatto,  and 
by  far  the  most  remarkable  personage  of  the  group:  he 
might  be  between  thirty  and  forty;  his  body  was  very  long, 
and  though  uncouthly  put  together,  exhibited  every  mark 
of  strength  and  vigour;  it  was  cased  in  a ferioul  of  red  wool, 
a kind  of  garment  which  descends  below  the  hips.  His  long 
muscular  and  hairy  arms  were  naked  from  the  elbow, 
where  the  sleeves  of  the  ferioul  terminate;  his  under  limbs 
were  short  in  comparison  with  his  body  and  arms;  his  legs 
were  bare,  but  he  wore  blue  kandrisa  as  far  as  the  knee; 
every  features  of  his  face  was  ugly,  exceedingly  and  bitterly 
ugly,  and  one  of  his  eyes  was  sightless,  being  covered  with  a 
white  film.  By  his  side  on  the  ground  was  a large  barrel, 
seemingly  a water-cask,  which  he  occasionally  seized  with 
a finger  and  thumb,  and  waved  over  his  head  as  if  it  had  been 
a quart  pot.  Such  was  the  trio  who  now  occupied  the 
wustuddur  of  Joanna  Correa:  and  I had  scarcely  time  to 
remark  what  I have  just  recorded,  when  that  good  lady 
entered  from  a back  court  with  her  handmaid  Johar,  or  the 
pearl,  an  ugly  fat  Jewish  girl  with  an  immense  mole  on  her 
cheek. 

“ Que  Dios  remate  tu  nombre,”  exclaimed  the  Mulatto; 
“ may  Allah  blot  out  your  name,  Joanna,  and  may  he 
likewise  blot  out  that  of  your  maid  Johar.  It  is  more  than 
fifteen  minutes  that  I have  been  seated  here,  after  having 
poured  out  into  the  tinaja  the  water  which  I brought  from 
the  fountain,  and  during  all  that  time  I have  waited  in  vain 
for  one  single  word  of  civility  from  yourself  or  from  Johar. 
Usted  no  tiene  modo , you  have  no  manner  with  you,  nor  more 
has  Johar.  This  is  the  only  house  in  Tangier  where  I am 
not  received  with  fitting  love  and  respect,  and  yet  I have 
done  more  for  you  than  for  any  other  person.  Have  I not 
filled  your  tinaja  with  water  when  other  people  have  gone 
without  a drop?  When  even  the  consul  and  the  interpreter 
of  the  consul  had  no  water  to  slake  their  thirst,  have  you  not 
had  enough  to  wash  your  wustuddur?  And  what  is  my 
return?  When  I arrive  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  I have  not 
one  kind  word  spoken  to  me,  nor  so  much  as  a glass  of 
makhiah  offered  to  me;  must  I tell  you  all  that  I do  for  you, 
Joanna?  Truly  I must,  for  you  have  no  manner  with  you. 
Do  I not  come  every  morning  just  at  the  third  hour;  and 
do  I not  knock  at  your  door;  and  do  you  not  arise  and  let 
me  in,  and  then  do  I not  knead  your  bread  in  your  presence, 
whilst  you  lie  in  bed,  and  because  I knead  it,  is  not  yours  the 
best  bread  in  Tangier?  For  am  I not  the  strongest  man  in 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


493 


Tangier,  and  the  most  noble  also?  ” Here  he  brandished 
his  barrel  over  his  head,  and  his  face  looked  almost  demoni- 
acal. “ Hear  me,  Joanna,”  he  continued,  “ you  know  that 
I am  the  strongest  man  in  Tangier,  and  I tell  you  again,  for 
the  thousandth  time,  that  I am  the  most  noble.  Who  are 
the  consuls?  Who  is  the  Pasha?  They  are  pashas  and 
consuls  now,  but  who  were  their  fathers?  I know  not,  nor 
do  they.  But  do  I not  know  who  my  fathers  were?  Were 
they  not  Moors  of  Garnata  ( Granada ),  and  is  it  not  on  that 
account  that  I am  the  strongest  man  in  Tangier?  Yes,  I 
am  of  the  old  Moors  of  Garnata,  and  my  family  has  lived  here, 
as  is  well  known,  since  Garnata  was  lost  to  the  Nazarenes,  and 
now  I am  the  only  one  of  my  family  of  the  blood  of  the  old 
Moors  in  all  this  land,  and  on  that  account  I am  of  nobler 
blood  than  the  sultan,  for  the  sultan  is  not  of  the  blood  of 
the  Moors  of  Garnata.  Do  you  laugh,  Joanna?  Does  your 
maid  Johar  laugh?  Am  I not  Hammin  Widdir,  el  hombre 
mas  valido  de  Tanger  ? And  is  it  not  true  that  I am  of  the 
blood  of  the  Moors  of  Garnata?  Deny  it,  and  I will  kill  you 
both,  you  and  your  maid  Johar.” 

“ You  have  been  eating  hashish  and  majoon,  Hammin,” 
said  Joanna  Correa,  “ and  the  Shaitan  has  entered  into  you, 
as  he  but  too  frequently  does.  I have  been  busy,  and  so  has 
Johar,  or  we  should  have  spoken  to  you  before;  however, 
mai  doorshee  (it  does  not  signify),  I know  how  to  pacify  you 
now  and  at  all  times,  will  you  take  some  gin-bitters,  or  a 
glass  of  common  makhiah?  ” 

“ May  you  burst,  O Joanna,”  said  the  Mulatto,  “ and 
may  Johar  also  burst;  I mean,  may  you  both  live  many 
years,  and  know  neither  pain  nor  sorrow.  I will  take  the 
gin-bitters,  O Joanna,  because  they  are  stronger  than  the 
makhiah,  which  always  appears  to  me  like  water;  and  I 
like  not  water,  though  I carry  it.  Many  thanks  to  you, 
Joanna,  here  is  health  to  you,  Joanna,  and  to  this  good 
company.” 

She  had  handed  him  a large  tumbler  fdled  to  the  brim ; 
he  put  it  to  his  nostrils,  snuffed  in  the  flavour,  and  then 
applying  it  to  his  mouth,  removed  it  not  whilst  one  drop  of 
the  fluid  remained.  His  features  gradually  relaxed  from 
their  former  angry  expression,  and  looking  particularly 
amiable  at  Joanna,  he  at  last  said: 

“ I hope  that  within  a little  time,  O Joanna,  you  will  be 
persuaded  that  I am  the  strongest  man  in  Tangier,  and  that 
I am  sprung  from  the  blood  of  the  Moors  of  Garnata,  as  then 
you  will  no  longer  refuse  to  take  me  for  a husband,  you  and 
your  maid  Johar,  and  to  become  Moors.  What  a glory  to 
you,  after  having  been  married  to  a Genoui,  and  given  birth 
to  Genouillos,  to  receive  for  a husband  a Moor  like  me,  and 


494 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


to  bear  him  children  of  the  blood  of  Garnata.  What  a glory 
too  for  Johar,  how  much  better  than  to  marry  a vile 
Jew,  even  like  Hayim  Ben  Atar,  or  your  cook  Sabia, 
both  of  whom  I could  strangle  with  two  fingers,  for  am 
I not  Hammin  Widdir  Moro  de  Garnata,  el  hombre  mas 
valido  be  Tangev  ? ” He  then  shouldered  his  barrel  and 
departed. 

“ Is  that  Mulatto  really  what  he  pretends  to  be?.”  said  I 
to  Joanna;  “ is  he  a descendant  of  the  Moors  of  Granada?  ” 

“ He  always  talks  about  the  Moors  of  Granada  when  he 
is  mad  with  majoon  or  aguardiente,”  interrupted,  in  bad 
French,  the  old  man  whom  I have  before  described,  and  in 
the  same  croaking  voice  which  I had  heard  chanting  in  the 
morning.  “ Nevertheless  it  may  be  true,  and  if  he  had  not 
heard  something  of  the  kind  from  his  parents,  he  would  never 
have  imagined  such  a thing,  for  he  is  too  stupid.  As  I said 
before,  it  is  by  no  means  impossible:  many  of  the  families  of 
Granada  settled  down  here  when  their  town  was  taken  by 
the  Christians,  but  the  greater  part  went  to  Tunis.  When  I 
was  there,  I lodged  in  the  house  of  a Moor  who  called 
himself  Zegri,  and  was  always  talking  of  Granada  and  the 
things  which  his  forefathers  had  done  there.  He  would 
moreover  sit  for  hours  singing  romances  of  which  I under- 
stood not  one  word,  praised  be  the  mother  of  God,  but  which 
he  said  all  related  to  his  family;  there  were  hundreds  of 
that  name  in  Tunis,  therefore,  why  should  not  this  Hammin, 
this  drunken  water-carrier,  be  a Moor  of  Granada  also?  He 
is  ugly  enough  to  be  emperor  of  all  the  Moors.  O the 
accursed  canaille,  I have  lived  amongst  them  for  my  sins 
these  eight  years,  at  Oran  and  here.  Monsieur,  do  you  not 
consider  it  to  be  a hard  case  for  an  old  man  like  myself,  who 
am  a Christian,  to  live  amongst  a race  who  know  not  God, 
nor  Christ,  nor  anything  holy?  ” 

“ What  do  you  mean,”  said  I,  “ by  asserting  that  the 
Moors  know  not  God?  There  is  no  people  in  the  world  who 
entertain  sublimer  notions  of  the  uncreated  eternal  God 
than  the  Moors,  and  no  people  have  ever  shown  themselves 
more  zealous  for  his  honour  and  glory;  their  very  zeal  for 
the  glory  of  God  has  been  and  is  the  chief  obstacle  to  their 
becoming  Christians.  They  are  afraid  of  compromising  his 
dignity  by  supposing  that  he  ever  condescended  to  become 
man.  And  with  respect  to  Christ,  their  ideas  even  of  him 
are  much  more  just  than  those  of  the  Papists,  they  say  he  is 
a mighty  prophet,  whilst,  according  to  the  others,  he  is 
either  a piece  of  bread  or  a helpless  infant.  In  many  points 
of  religion  the  Moors  are  wrong,  dreadfully  wrong,  but  are 
the  Papists  less  so?  And  one  of  their  practices  sets  them 
immeasurably  below  the  Moors  in  the  eyes  of  any  unpre- 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


495 


judiced  person:  they  bow  down  to  idols,  Christian  idols  if 
you  like,  but  idols  still,  things  graven  of  wood  and  stone 
and  brass,  and  from  these  things,  which  can  neither 
hear,  nor  speak,  nor  feel,  they  ask  and  expect  to  obtain 
favours/' 

“Vive  la  France , Vive  la  Guadeloupe said  the  black, 
with  a good  French  accent.  “ In  France  and  in  Guadeloupe 
there  is  no  superstition,  and  they  pay  as  much  regard  to  the 
Bible  as  to  the  Koran;  I am  now  learning  to  read  in  order 
that  I may  understand  the  writings  of  Voltaire,  who,  as  I am 
told,  has  proved  that  both  the  one  and  the  other  were 
written  with  the  sole  intention  of  deceiving  mankind. 
O vive  la  France  ! where  will  you  find  such  an  enlightened 
country  as  France;  and  where  will  you  find  such  a plentiful 
country  as  France?  Only  one  in  the  world,  and  that  is 
Guadeloupe.  Is  it  not  so,  Monsieur  Pascual?  Were  you 
ever  at  Marseilles?  Ah  quel  bon  pays  est  celui-la  pour  les 
vivres,  pour  les  petits  poulets , pour  les  poulardes,  pour  les 
perdrix,  pour  les  perdreaux,  pour  les  aloueites , pour  les 
becasses , pour  les  becassines,  enfin , pour  tout  ” 

“ Pray,  sir,  are  you  a cook?  ” demanded  I. 

“ Monsieur , je  le  suis  pour  vous  rendre  service , mon  nom 
c’est  Gerard,  et  fai  Vhonneur  d'etre  chef  de  cuisine  chez 
monsieur  le  consul  Hollandois . A present  je  prie  permission 
de  vous  saluer  ; il  faut  que  faille  a la  maison  pour  faire  le 
diner  de  mon  maitre.” 

At  four  I went  to  dine  with  the  British  consul.  Two 
other  English  gentlemen  were  present,  who  had  arrived  at 
Tangier  from  Gibraltar  about  ten  days  previously  for  a 
short  excursion,  and  were  now  detained  longer  than  they 
wished  by  the  Levant  wind.  They  had  already  visited  the 
principal  towns  in  Spain,  and  proposed  spending  the  winter 

either  at  Cadiz  or  Seville.  One  of  them,  Mr.  , struck 

me  as  being  one  of  the  most  remarkable  men  I had  ever 
conversed  with ; he  travelled  not  for  diversion  nor  instigated 
by  curiosity,  but  merely  with  the  hope  of  doing  spiritual 
good,  chiefly  by  conversation.  The  consul  soon  asked  me 
what  I thought  of  the  Moors  and  their  country.  I told  him 
that  what  I had  hitherto  seen  of  both  highly  pleased  me. 
He  said  that  were  I to  live  amongst  them  ten  years,  as  he  had 
done,  he  believed  I should  entertain  a very  different  opinion; 
that  no  people  in  the  world  were  more  false  and  cruel;  that 
their  government  was  one  of  the  vilest  description,  with 
which  it  was  next  to  an  impossibility  for  any  foreign  power 
to  hold  amicable  relations,  as  it  invariably  acted  with  bad 
faith,  and  set  at  nought  the  most  solemn  treaties.  That 
British  property  and  interests  were  every  day  subjected  to 
ruin  and  spoliation,  and  British  subjects  exposed  to  unheard- 


496  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 

of  vexations,  without  the  slightest  hope  of  redress  being 
afforded,  save  recourse  was  had  to  force,  the  only  argument 
to  which  the  Moors  were  accessible.  He  added,  that 
towards  the  end  of  the  preceding  year  an  atrocious  murder 
had  been  perpetrated  in  Tangier:  a Genoese  family  of  three 
individuals  had  perished,  all  of  whom  were  British  subjects, 
and  entitled  to  the  protection  of  the  British  flag.  The 
murderers  were  known,  and  the  principal  one  was  even  now 
in  prison  for  the  fact,  yet  all  attempts  to  bring  him  to  con- 
dign punishment  had  hitherto  proved  abortive,  as  he  was  a 
Moor,  and  his  victims  Christians.  Finally  he  cautioned  me, 
not  to  take  walks  beyond  the  wall  unaccompanied  by  a 
soldier,  whom  he  offered  to  provide  for  me  should  I desire  it, 
as  otherwise  I incurred  great  risk  of  being  ill-treated  by  the 
Moors  of  the  interior  whom  I might  meet,  or  perhaps 
murdered,  and  he  instanced  the  case  of  a British  officer 
who  not  long  since  had  been  murdered  on  the  beach  for  no 
other  reason  than  being  a Nazarene,  and  appearing  in  a 
Nazarene  dress.  He  at  length  introduced  the  subject  of  the 
Gospel,  and  I was  pleased  to  learn  that,  during  his  residence 
in  Tangier,  he  had  distributed  a considerable  quantity  of 
Bibles  amongst  the  natives  in  the  Arabic  language,  and  that 
many  of  the  learned  men,  or  Talibs,  had  read  the  holy 
volume  with  great  interest,  and  that  by  this  distribution, 
which,  it  is  true,  was  effected  with  much  caution,  no  angry 
or  unpleasant  feeling  had  been  excited.  He  finally  asked 
whether  I had  come  with  the  intention  of  circulating  the 
Scripture  amongst  the  Moors. 

I replied  that  I had  no  opportunity  of  doing  so,  as  I had 
not  one  single  copy  either  in  the  Arabic  language  or  char- 
acter. That  the  few  Testaments  which  were  in  my  posses- 
sion were  in  the  Spanish  language,  and  were  intended  for 
circulation  amongst  the  Christians  of  Tangier,  to  whom  they 
might  be  serviceable,  as  they  all  understood  the  language. 

It  was  night,  and  I was  seated  in  the  wustuddur  of 
Joanna  Correa,  in  company  with  Pascual  Fava  the  Genoese. 
The  old  man’s  favourite  subject  of  discourse  appeared  to  be 
religion,  and  he  professed  unbounded  love  for  the  Saviour, 
and  the  deepest  sense  of  gratitude  for  his  miraculous  atone- 
ment for  the  sins  of  mankind.  I should  have  listened  to  him 
with  pleasure  had  he  not  smelt  very  strongly  of  liquor,  and 
by  certain  incoherence  of  language  and  wildness  of  manner 
given  indications  of  being  in  some  degree  the  worse  for  it. 
Suddenly  two  figures  appeared  beneath  the  doorway;  one 
was  that  of  a bare-headed  and  bare-legged  Moorish  boy  of 
about  ten  years  of  age,  dressed  in  a gelaba;  he  guided  by 
the  hand  an  old  man,  whom  I at  once  recognised  as  one  ol  the 
Algerines,  the  good  Moslems  of  whom  the  old  Mahasni  had 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


497 


spoken  in  terms  of  praise  in  the  morning  whilst  we  ascended 
the  street  of  the  Siarrin.  He  was  very  short  of  stature  and 
dirty  in  his  dress;  the  lower  part  of  his  face  was  covered 
with  a stubbly  white  beard;  before  his  eyes  he  wore  a large 
pair  of  spectacles,  from  which  he  evidently  received  but  little 
benefit,  as  he  required  the  assistance  of  the  guide  at  every 
step.  The  two  advanced  a little  way  into  the  wustuddur 
and  there  stopped.  Pascual  Fava  no  sooner  beheld  them, 
than  assuming  a jovial  air  he  started  nimbly  up,  and  leaning 
on  his  stick,  for  he  had  a bent  leg,  limped  to  a cupboard,  out 
of  which  he  took  a bottle  and  poured  out  a glass  of  wine, 
singing  in  the  broken  kind  of  Spanish  used  by  the  Moors  of 
the  coast: 

“ Argelino, 

Moro  fino, 

No  beber  vino, 

Ni  comer  tocino.” 

(Algerine, 

Moor  so  keen, 

No  drink  wine, 

No  taste  swine.) 

Fie  then  handed  the  wine  to  the  old  Moor,  who  drank  it  off, 
and  then,  led  by  the  boy,  made  for  the  door  without  saying  a 
word. 

“ Hade  mushe  halal,”  (that  is  not  lawful,)  .said  I to  him 
with  a loud  voice. 

“ Cul  shee  halal  ” (everything  is  lawful,)  said  the  old 
Moor,  turning  his  sightless  and  spectacled  eyes  in  the 
direction  from  which  my  voice  reached  him.  “ Of  every- 
thing which  God  has  given,  it  is  lawful  for  the  children  of 
God  to  partake.” 

“ Who  is  that  old  man?  ” said  I to  Pascual  Fava, 
after  the  blind  and  the  leader  of  the  blind  had  departed. 
“ Who  is  he ! ” said  Pascual ; “ who  is  he  I He  is  a merchant 
now,  and  keeps  a shop  in  the  Siarrin,  but  there  was  a 
time  when  no  bloodier  pirate  sailed  out  of  Algier.  That 
old  blind  wretch  has  cut  more  throats  than  he  has  hairs 
in  his  beard.  Before  the  French  took  the  place  he  was 
the  rais  or  captain  of  a frigate,  and  many  was  the  poor 
Sardinian  vessel  which  fell  into  his  hands.  After  that 
affair  he  fled  to  Tangier,  and  it  is  said  that  he  brought  with 
him  a great  part  of  the  booty  which  he  had  amassed  in 
former  times.  Many  other  Algerines  came  hither  also,  or 
to  Tetuan,  but  he  is  the  strangest  guest  of  them  all.  He 
keeps  occasionally  very  extraordinary  company  for  a Moor, 
and  is  rather  over  intimate  with  the  Jews.  Well,  that’s  no 
business  of  mine;  only  let  him  look  to  himself.  If  the  Moors 


498 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN 


should  once  suspect  him,  it  were  all  over  with  him.  Moors 
and  Jews,  Jews  and  Moors  I Oh  my  poor  sins,  my  poor 
sins,  that  brought  me  to  live  amongst  them! — 

“ ‘ Ave  Maris  stella, 

Dei  Mater  alma, 

Atque  semper  virgo, 

Felix  coeli  porta  ! 5 ” 

He  was  proceeding  in  this  manner  when  I was  startled 
by  the  sound  of  a musket. 

“ That  is  the  retreat,”  said  Pascual  Fava.  “ It  is  fired 
every  night  in  the  soc  at  half-past  eight,  and  it  is  the  signal 
for  suspending  all  business,  and  shutting  up.  I am  now 
going  to  close  the  doors,  and  whosoever  knocks,  I shall  not 
admit  them  till  I know  their  voice.  Since  the  murder  of  the 
poor  Genoese  last  year,  we  have  all  been  particularly 
cautious.” 

Thus  had  passed  Friday,  the  sacred  day  of  the  Moslems, 
and  the  first  which  I had  spent  in  Tangier.  I observed  that 
the  Moors  followed  their  occupations  as  if  the  day  had  nothing 
particular  in  it.  Between  twelve  and  one,  the  hour  of 
prayer  in  the  mosque,  the  gates  of  the  town  were  closed, 
and  no  one  permitted  either  to  enter  or  go  out.  There  is  a 
tradition,  current  amongst  them,  that  on  this  day,  and  at 
this  hour,  their  eternal  enemies,  the  Nazarenes,  will  arrive  to 
take  possession  of  their  country ; on  which  account  they  hold 
themselves  prepared  against  a surprisal. 


THE  END 


Printed  by  Ballantyne,  Hanson  Co. 
Edinburgh  6*  London 


^ THE  PEOPLE'S  LIBRARY  ^ 


1.  Treasure  Island  and  Kidnapped — STEVENSON. 

2.  Adam  Bede — ELIOT. 

3.  East  Lynne — WOOD. 

4.  The  Essays  of  Elia — LAMB, 

5.  Ivanhoe — SCOTT. 

6.  A Tale  of  Two  Cities — DICKENS. 

7.  Poems,  1830-1865 — TENNYSON. 

8.  Westward  Ho  ! — KINGSLEY. 

9.  Sesame  and  Lilies,  Unto  this  Last,  ) 

and  The  Political  Economy  of  Art  \ KUoKllN 

10.  The  Scarlet  Letter — HAWTHORNE. 

11.  The  Cloister  and  the  Hearth — READE. 

12.  The  Christmas  Books — DICKENS. 

13.  Tom  Brown’s  Schooldays — HUGHES. 

14.  King  Solomon’s  Mines — HAGGARD. 

15.  Poems  (Selection,  1833-1865) — BROWNING. 

16.  John  Plalifax,  Gentleman — CRAIK. 

17.  Essays  and  other  Writings — BACON. 

18.  The  Mill  on  the  Floss— ELIOT. 

19.  The  Autocrat  of  the  Breakfast  Table — HOLMES. 

20.  Kenilworth — SCOTT. 

21.  Jane  Eyre — BRONTE. 

22.  Robinson  Crusoe — DEFOE. 

23.  Waverley — SCOTT. 

24.  The  Old  Curiosity  Shop— DICKENS. 

25.  Essays  and  other  Writings — EMERSON. 

26.  Cranford — GASKELL. 

27.  Silas  Marner — ELIOT. 

28.  Poems  (Selection) — LONGFELLOW. 

29.  The  Last  Days  of  Pompeii — LYTTON. 

30.  Esmond— THACKERAY, 

31.  Pride  and  Prejudice — AUSTEN. 

32.  The  Tower  of  London— AINSWORTH. 

33.  The  Bible  in  Spain— BORROW. 

34.  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans — COOPER. 

35.  The  Opium  Eater  and  other  Writings — DE  QUINCEY. 
36 — 39-  Complete  Works — SHAKESPEARE. 

40.  Barnaby  Rudge — DICKENS. 

41.  The  Last  of  the  Barons — LYTTON. 

42.  Fairy  Tales  (Selection) — ANDERSEN. 

43.  The  Vicar  of  Wakefield  and  Poems — GOLDSMITH. 

44.  The  Deerslayer — COOPER. 

45.  Sense  and  Sensibility — AUSTEN. 

46.  Poems  (Selection) — BURNS. 

47.  The  Three  Musketeers — DUMAS. 

48.  The  Channings — WOOD. 

49.  The  Ingoldsby  Legends — BARHAM. 

50.  Oliver  Twist — DICKENS. 


THE  STANDARD 

“The  paper,  printing,  and  binding  of  each  volume  are 
excellently  contrived  and  produced,  and  must  inevitably  give 
a book-lover  genuine  pleasure  to  examine  and  handle.” 


* THE  PEOPLE'S  LIBRARY  ^ 


51.  The  Little  Minister — BARRIE. 

52.  Fairy  Tales  (Selected) — GRIMM. 

53.  Meditations — MARCUS  AURELIUS. 

54.  Uncle  Tom’s  Cabin — STOWE. 

55.  The  History  of  Selborne — WHITE. 

56.  The  Two  Paths  and  Other  Essays — R US  KIN. 

57.  The  Pathfinder — COOPER. 

58.  Tales  from  Shakespeare — LAMB. 

59.  The  Woman  in  White — COLLINS. 

60.  Sartor  Resartus  and  Essays  on  Burns  and  Scott — CARLYLE. 

61.  It  is  Never  Too  Late  to  Mend — READE. 

62.  The  Pilgrim’s  Progress — BUNYAN. 

63.  Shirley — BRONTE. 

64.  Tales,  Poems,  and  Sketches — BRET  HARTE. 

65.  Hypatia — KINGSLEY. 

66.  Essays-HUXLEY. 

67.  Plandy  Andy — LOVER. 

68.  Voyages  of  Discovery — COOK. 

69.  Mr.  Midshipman  Easy — MARRY  AT. 

70.  Heroes  and  Hero  Worship  & Essays  on  Goethe — CARLYLE. 

71.  Masterman  Ready — MARRY  AT. 

72.  Our  Village — MITFORD. 

73.  Origin  of  Species — DARWIN. 

74.  The  Three  Midshipmen — KINGSTON. 

75.  Gulliver’s  Travels — SWIFT. 

76.  The  Talisman — SCOTT. 

77.  Harold — LYTTON. 

78.  Plays— SHERIDAN. 

79.  Ravenshoe — H.  KINGSLEY. 

80.  Vanity  Fair — THACKERAY. 

81.  Peter  the  Whaler — KINGSTON. 

82.  Wonder  Book  and  Tanglewood  Tales — HAWTHORNE. 

83.  Charles  O’Malley— LEVER  ! 

84.  Historical  Essays  & Lays  of  Ancient  Rome — MACAULAY. 

85.  Withering  Heights — BRONTE. 

86.  Guy  Mannering — SCOTT. 

87.  Hard  Cash— READE. 

88.  Whitefriars— ROBINSON. 

89.  Poems — WHITMAN. 

90.  Legends — PROCTER. 

91.  Two  Years  Ago — KINGSLEY. 

92.  The  Heart  of  Midlothian— SCOTT. 

93.  Bar  Chester  Towers — TROLLOPE. 

94.  Peter  Simple — MARRY  AT. 

95.  Life  of  Nelson— SOUTHEY. 

96.  Tales  of  Mystery  and  Imagination — POE. 

97.  Life  of  Christ — FARRAR. 

98.  Faust— GOETHE. 

99.  Swiss  Family  Robinson 

100.  The  Compleat  Angler — WALTON. 

Other  volumes  to  follow. 


THE  TIMES 

“The  last  word  in  cheap  reprints.’* 


